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Victorian 
914.237 
R246i 
1842 


Joseph  Earl  and 
Genevieve  Thornton 

Arlington 

Collection  of  19th 
Century  Americana 

Brigham  Young  University  Library 


BR1GHAM  YOUNG  UNIVERS  TY 


3  1 


197  22073  3767 


D 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


CORNWALL. 


LONDON : 
RICHARD  CLAY-    PRINTER,    BRKAD-STREET-11 J  LL. 


« 


V 


: 


AN 


ILLUSTRATED    ITINERARY 


OF     THE 


COUNTY   OF    CORNWALL 


'THE     ROCKY     LAND    OF    S  TR  A  N  G  E  R  S."— N  o  R  D  e  n. 


LONDON: 
HOW   AND    PARSONS,    132,    FLEET    STREET. 

MDCCCXLII. 


TO 


SIR  CHARLES  LEMON,  BART.  M.P. 


OF    CARCLEW, 


THE    DESCENDANT    OF    THE    DISTINGUISHED    INDIVIDUAL    TO    WHOM 


CORNWALL    WAS    SO    DEEPLY    INDEBTED 


FOR  A  NEW  ERA  IN  EXPLORING  ITS  MINERAL  TREASURES, 


TOs  Uolttme  is  Itwcribrtr, 


BY  HIS  OBEDIENT  SERVANT, 


CYRUS  REDDING. 


PREFACE. 


The  Author  of  the  Itinerary  of  the  County  of  Cornwall  trusts  he  has 
redeemed  the  pledge  previously  given,  of  combining  in  a  moderate  compass 
both  amusement  and  information,  adapted  to  all  classes  of  readers,  and 
elegantly  illustrated. 

The  features  of  the  County  have  been  generally  rather  than  particularly 
described,  and  a  good  deal  of  useful  information  has  been  compressed  into 
a  small  compass  at  the  end,  to  serve  for  continual  reference ;  this  it  was 
not  practicable  to  introduce  into  the  preceding  portion  of  the  work  without 
injuring  the  effect  of  the  whole  as  an  illustrated  volume.  In  forming  a 
judgment  of  the  work,  the  Author  hopes  the  reader  will  bear  in  mind  this 
peculiar  characteristic  of  his  labours ;  for,  notwithstanding  a  full  sense  of 
what  others  better  qualified  than  himself  for  such  a  task  might  have  accom- 
plished, he  is  solicitous  that  the  views  which  directed  him  should  be  present 
with  the  reader. 

Not  only  the  results  of  personal  observation  have  been  made  available  in 
putting  together  the  information  contained  in  the  present  volume,  but  the 
labours  of  other  writers  have  been  rendered  serviceable  to  the  fullest  extent 
whenever  practicable.  Many  of  these  were  bulky  and  voluminous,  making 
much  reading  necessary  to  cull  the  comparatively  small  portion  which  was 
adapted  to  the  present  design.  The  natural  order  has  been  observed  in  the 
details,  in  preference  to  any  classification,  not  only  because  it  was  best 
adapted  for  an  Itinerary,  but  as  affording  peculiar  facilities  for  the  introduc- 
tion of  the  embellishments.  It  became  needful  to  avoid  as  much  as  possible 
those  formal  disquisitions  which  render  works  of  topography,  in  general,  so 


Vlll  PREFACE. 

tedious:  and  in  effecting  this  object  it  was  indispensable  to  intermingle  personal 
impressions  and  feelings  with  scenic  description,  and  thus  record  its  effects 
upon  the  mind,  because  they  seldom  fail  to  interest  the  majority  of  those 
more  particularly  who  read  principally  for  amusement.  Fiction  has  been 
carefully  avoided,  unless  when  characterised  as  local  tradition. 

In  regard  to  the  locality  chosen  for  commencing  the  series  of  English 
Counties,  no  opinion  can  afford  a  better  justification  of  the  present  than 
that  of  Dr.  Maton,  who  says,  there  is  no  portion  of  the  kingdom  "  that 
exhibits  such  a  diversity  of  interesting  objects  as  the  Western : — of  sublime 
as  well  as  decorated  scenery  the  most  striking  specimens  will  be  found.  With 
respect  to  the  former,  some  parts  of  Cornwall  and  North  Devon  cannot  be 
exceeded  in  our  island ;  and  as  to  the  latter,  the  southern  coast  of  Devonshire 
and  some  spots  in  Somersetshire  are  rjerhaps  unrivalled."  Independently, 
therefore,  of  any  claim  from  its  peculiar  geographical  position,  the  selection 
of  this  County  for  commencing  the  present  series  seems  to  be  supported  by 
very  competent  authority. 

Finally,  the  Author  has  to  regret  that  the  aggregate  of  materials,  and 
the  nature  of  the  present  work,  together  with  the  reflection  that  the  taste  of 
the  public  at  large,  besides  that  of  the  locality  described,  was  to  be  consulted, 
forced  him  to  exercise  his  judgment  in  excluding  many  matters  of  local 
interest,  which,  had  the  case  been  different,  he  should  have  felt  much 
pleasure  by  introducing,  and  for  which  he  is  indebted  to  several  kind 
correspondents. 


ERRATA. 

Page  17,  line  10,/nr  "  Tamar  canal,"  read  "  Tavistock  canal." 
,,  145,    „      I,  for  "large,"  read  "larch." 
,,  l.r)8,     ,,    13, /w  "  left  a  son,"  read  "  had  a  son." 
162,    ,.     2,  for  "  1692,"  read  "  1642." 


-1 


u 


■  .  '■     '  ■  ■  '"■/  ■■■'"''  . 


CORNWALL. 


Cornwall  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  of  the  English  counties,  not  only 
from  its  geographical  position  and  mineral  productions,  but  because  it  pos- 
sesses features  peculiarly  its  own,  having  little  in  common  with  the  other 
territorial  divisions  of  England,  unless  it  be  a  part  of  Devonshire.  Shores 
deeply  indented,  lashed  by  ever  restless  seas,  secluded  coves  with  extensive 
sands,  precipitous  headlands,  beautiful  and  fertile  valleys,  sterile  hills  with 
granite  peaks,  extended  wastes,  and  districts  boasting  a  fertility  surpassed 
nowhere  in  the  island,  scenery  of  the  grandest  description,  as  well  as  of  the 
softest  character — these  are  all  distinguishing  traits  of  the  Cornish  promontory. 
To  the  foregoing  may  be  added,  a  mild  and  genial  climate  ;  a  friendly  and 
hospitable  people ;  a  remarkable  geological  structure ;  mining  resources 
unequalled  in  the  world,  on  the  same  extent  of  surface,  affording  traces 
of  almost  every  mineral  substance  ;  the  flora  of  a  southern  climate  ;  exhaust- 
less  wealth  in  its  own  giant  store-house — the  ocean ;  antiquities  belonging  to 
the  earlier  history  of  the  British  people  ;  and  remnants  of  a  language  abound- 
ing in  words  derived  from  an  eastern  source,  evidence  of  a  remote  intercourse 
with  some  of  the  more  celebrated  nations  that  now  exist  but  in  history.  Such 
are,  in  brief,  some  of  the  causes  which  enhance  the  interest  attaching  to  the 
southernmost  county  of  England. 

Of  the  fifty-two  counties  into  which  England  and  Wales  are  divided,  Corn- 
wall stands  the  fifteenth  in  population,  and  in  superficies*  the  fourteenth,  not 
including  the  Isles  of  Scilly,  Avhich  are  considered  within  the  county. 

In  fonn  Cornwall  resembles  the  outline  of  England  inverted,  supposing  the 
Land's  End  to  be  placed  upon  the  Scotch  border.  It  is,  in  fact,  a  peninsula, 
of  a  triangular  shape,  surrounded  on  all  sides  but  one  by  the  Northern 
Atlantic  Ocean  and  the  English  Channel.  The  ancient  Latin  name  of  Cornu- 
bia,  or  Cornuvia,  seems  to  have  had  reference  to  its  figure,  which  is  that  of  a 
cornucopia,    or   horn   of  plenty.f     Cornwall,    as   the   southernmost   land   of 

*  About  1407  square  miles,  or  900,480  acres,  exclusive  of  Scilly. 

t  Some  assert  that  the  British  name,  Cernyw,  or  horn,  -was  that  of  Cornwall,  antecedent  to  Cor- 
nubia,  or  Cornuvia,  for  the  v  and  b  were  used  indiscriminately  by  some  of  the  southern  nations. 
Borlase  supposes  the  Saxons  changed  the  name  to  Cornwall,  from  their  calling  the  present  Welsh, 
Wealles,  indicative  of  the  common  origin  of  the  Welsh  and  Cornish ;  thus  Cornwealles,  or  Cornwall. 

B 


I  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

England,  lies  south  of  Ireland,  Cape  Clear  being  some  minutes  of  latitude 
north  of  Hartland  Point  in  Devonshire,  which  last  is  several  miles  north  of 
the  parish  of  Moorwinstow,  the  north-eastern  limit  of  Cornwall.  From  the 
sea-boundary  of  this  point  there  is,  consequently,  no  land  to  the  westward 
nearer  than  the  American  continent.  If  a  line  be  drawn  from  the  boundary 
of  Moorwinstow  parish  towards  Devonshire  westwards  to  the  Land's  End,  and 
also  from  Moorwinstow  to  the  Rame  Head,  near  Plymouth,  it  will  define  the 
greatest  length  and  breadth  of  the  county,  without  taking  the  undulations  of 
the  surface  into  account.  These  being  considered,  the  length  will  be  above 
80  miles,  and  the  extreme  breadth  about  45.  The  breadth  diminishes  con- 
tinually ;  and  near  the  Land's  End  the  distance  from  coast  to  coast  is  little 
more  than  six  miles  in  a  direct  line.  The  Land's  End  is  the  extreme  western, 
and  the  Lizard  the  extreme  southern  headland  of  England.  The  point  called 
Tol  Pedn  Penwith*  will  exhibit  the  character  of  the  scenery  about  the  Land's 
End  and  the  other  projections  upon  this  wild  coast.  The  rocks  are  granite, 
and  resemble  cubes  piled  upon  each  other. 


The  undulations  of  surface,  and  irregularities  caused  by  the  numerous  head- 
lands, afford  every  variety  of  aspect.  On  the  northern  coast  the  shores  are 
precipitous,  and  the  land  rises  into  rocky  and  lofty  cliffs,  which  go  bluffly 
down  into  the  ocean.  When  they  do  not  dip  down  thus,  they  are  bordered  at 
low  water  with  a  narrow  strip  of  sand.  Vast  drifts  of  sand  are  forced  up  by 
the  fury  of  the  Atlantic  storms  upon  some  parts  of  the  north-western  coast; 


*  Meaning,  in  Cornish,  the  "  Holed  Headland  on  the  left  hand.' 


CORNWALL.  3 

hence,  though  there  are  but  two  harbours  on  that  coast,  except  St.  Ives, 
wherein  a  ship  of  200  tons  can  enter,  the  entrances,  even  for  vessels  of  this 
class,  are  rendered  dangerous  by  sand-bars,  upon  which  the  sea  breaks  with 
tremendous  violence. 

Turning  from  the  coast  to  the  inland  part  of  the  county,  the  surface  is 

remarkably  varied.     The  highest  eminence  does  not  exceed  1,400  feet,  and  yet 

there  is  no  county  in  England  where  there  is  so  little  level  ground :  along  the 

centre   there   is   a   ridge  of  hills,  disconnected  from  those  of  Dartmoor,   in 

Devonshire,  by  the  deep  valley  through  which  the  Tamar  winds  its  serpentine 

course  nearly  from  sea  to  sea.     Nothing  can  be  more  sterile  than  the  aspect  of 

this  district,  covered  with  heath,  and  scarcely  relieved  by  a  few  solitary  furze 

bushes.     Here  and  there,  above  the  line  of  a  desolate  eminence,  clad  in  brown 

scanty  vegetation,  appears  a  hill-top,  called  locally  a  tor,  the  apex  of  a  ridge, 

jagged,  and  serrated  by  granite  rocks.     The  space,  called  the  Temple  Moors, 

alone,  lying  in  the  sterile  district  between  Bodmin  and  Launceston,  is  said  to 

cover  ten  square  miles,  in  one  patch  of  barren  and  unreclaimed  land.     Then 

there  are  the  mining  districts,  and  others  that  are  utter  waste.     The  great 

mail-road    to   the  west    lies  by  Launceston  through    this    wild,   and  hence, 

naturally  enough,  strangers  have  conceived  an  idea  of  the  county  very  different 

from  the  truth,  and  little  calculated  to  support  the  assertion,  that  there  are 

portions  of  Cornwall  which  no  other  part  of  England  can  equal  in  fertility  of 

produce.     Borlase   states    that,    in    his  time,   one  Roberts,  of  Penzance,  had 

60  bushels  of  wheat  to  the  acre.   Eighty  bushels  of  barley  have  been  produced, 

and  from  70  to   80  are  constantly  harvested  near  the  Lizard. 

The  variety  of  surface,  and  the  action  of  the  sea,  contribute  to  impart  to  this 
portion  of  the  island  the  charm  of  some  of  the  most  romantic  and  sublime 
scenery  in  the  empire.  Cornwall  is  the  land  of  the  wild,  the  picturesque,  and 
the  imaginative.  Never  could  its  prince,  Arthur,  be  better  located  to  become 
the  delight  of  successive  generations  in  all  lands,  the  hero  of  a  thousand  tales, 
the  immortal  in  romance.  The  air  is  soft  and  pure ;  there  is  the  voluptuous- 
ness of  the  "  sweet  south"  at  times  in  the  atmosphere,  tempered  by  Atlantic 
breezes ;  the  heaths  are  various,  and  rich  to  a  degree  seen  nowhere  besides 
in  England. 

The  continuation  of  the  Dartmoor  chain  of  hills  through  Cornwall  gradually 
subsides  in  elevation  from  1,400  feet  in  the  eastern,  to  500  or  600  in  the 
extreme  western  part  of  the  county,  except  in  one  instance,  where  800  is 
attained,*  about  seven  miles  from  the    Land's   End.      From   the   northern 


*  The  hills  in  Cornwall  most  noted  have  the  following  elevations :— Sennen,  Land's  End,  387  feet ; 
St.  Buryan,  415  ;  Pertinny  Hill,  St.  Just,  689  ;  Carnminnis  Hill,  805  ;  Cam  Bonellis,  sometimes  called 
Menelez,  822  ;  St.  Agnes'  Beacon,  621 ;  Deadman  Head  Mevagissey,  379  ;  Hensharrow  Hill,  1,034  ; 
Bodmin  Down,  645;  Cadon  Barrow,  1,011;  Brownwilly,  1,368;  Caradon  Hill,  1,208;  Tregoning 
Hill,  596;  Godolphin,  495;  Crowan  Beacon,  850;  Palestine  Rocks,  Mabe,  700;  Hill  above  Burnt- 
house,    Penryn,    680 ;    Jenkin's    Barrow,    St.  Michel!,  457 ;     Belovely   Beacon,    765 ;    an    Dinas, 


4  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

and  southern  sides  of  this 
range  the  rivers  descend  : 
the  most  considerable  flow- 
ing from  the  southern  side. 
Brownwilly  is  the  prin- 
cipal elevation  in  this 
range.  It  is  marked  by 
great  irregularity  of  out- 
line, the  summit  crested 
with  granite  rocks,  and  the 
sides  covered  with  brown 
heather. 

The  geology  of  Cornwall  is  a  copious  subject.  The  northern  slope  from  the 
great  central  ridge  of  hills  is  bounded  by  the  sea,  terminating  in  cliffs,  in 
some  places  of  very  considerable  elevation,  and,  where  these  are  not  found,  in 
sand-hills  or  beaches  of  the  same  material.  From  Moorwinstow  to  Boscastle, 
the  formation  which  reposes  against  the  granite  of  the  central  ridge  of  hills  is 
a  continuation  of  that  which  commences  on  the  north  coast  of  Devonshire,  a 
little  to  the  south  of  Barnstaple.  In  Cornwall,  it  may  be  pretty  nearly  defined 
by  a  line  from  Boscastle,  through  Lesnewth,  north  of  St.  Cleather,  approxi- 
mating to  the  west  of  Launceston,  within  a  mile  or  two  of  that  place ;  then, 
forming  an  angle,  proceeding  nearly  due  south  almost  to  Lezant,  and  continu- 
ing in  a  line  a  little  irregular  to  the  right  bank  of  the  Tamar,  that  river 
becoming  its  boundary  in  Cornwall  as  far  as  Newbridge,  where  granite  shows 
itself  on  Hengist  Down.  At  South  Hill,  beyond  Hengist  Down,  granite  is 
again  perceived  rising  through  the  schist.  The  formation  thus  alluded  to  as 
extending  from  the  eastern  limit  of  the  county  to  Boscastle,  and  thence  to 
Newbridge,  belongs  to  the  carbonaceous  series  of  North  Devon. 

Bounded  by  the  Tamar,  from  Newbridge  southwards  to  the  Kame  Head, 
except  where  red  sandstone  appears  at  Whitsun  Bay  and  Cawsand,  and  por- 
phyry, breaking  through  the  same  substance,  at  Redding  Point  in  Plymouth 
Sound ;  extending  also  to  the  north-wrest  from  Newbridge  to  Boscastle,  and 
along  the  southern  shore  from  Boscastle  to  the  west  side*of  St.  Ives  Bay,  the 
prevailing  formation  is  grauwacke  slates  and  grits.  These  rise  from  beneath 
the  carbonaceous  series  of  North  Devon,  or  the  clay-slate  already  mentioned 
as  terminating  between  Boscastle  and  Newbridge,  only  to  be  succeeded  by 
clay-slate  differing  a  little  from  the  former  in  character.     This  second  variety 

St.  Columb,  729  ;  Roche  Rocks,  G80  ;  Killivreth  Down,  1,000 ;  St.  Dennis'  Down,  815  ;  St.  Dennis,  674 ; 
Carclaze  tin  mine,  665  ;  Temple  Tor,  900;  Hawk's  Tor,  900;  Brocka  Beacon,  1,000;  Arthur's  Hall, 
St.  Breward,  890  ;  Garrah  Tor,  1,060  ;  Davidstow  Moor,  959  ;  Titch  Beacon,  1,010  ;  Brey  Down,  1,125 ; 
Tober  Tor,  1,122;  Kilmarth  Hill,  1,277;  Sharp  Tor,  1,200;  Mennaclew  Down,  near  St.  Clare,  1,124. 
-The  latitude  of  St.  Agnes'  Beacon,  according  to  the  Ordnance  survey,  in  making  which  it  was  a 
station,  was  found  to  be  50"  18'  27'  north  ;  the  longitude  5h.  11m.  56s.  west. 


CORNWALL. 


5 


of  slates  and  grits,  with  argillaceous  slates  at  Tintagel,  and  some  of  the  finer  kind 
in  the  De  la  Bole  quarry,  not  far  from  that  place,  crosses  the  isthmus  between 
St.  Ives  and  Penzance  in  a  curved  line.  It  goes  westward  of  the  last-named 
town ;  passing  near  Ludgvan  and  bordering  Mount's  Bay,  to  about  as  far  as 
Mousehole,  where  the  granite  formation  commences,  and  includes  the  whole  of 
the  Land's  End  district,  round  by  the  west  to  St.  Ives,  forming  a  vast 
adamantine  head  or  block,  as  if  it  were  for  resistance  to  the  stormy  waters  of  the 
northern  Atlantic.  Close  to  the  back  of  the  town  of  St.  Ives  itself,  a  narrow 
and  small  space  of  trappean  rock  appears,  such  as  geologists  associate  with 
the  grauwacke  and  carbonaceous  series,  or  lighter  clay-slate ;  and  here  and 
there  it  slightly  shows  itself  towards  St.  Just.  It  must,  however,  be  observed 
that  in  the  line  of  the  slate  formation,  on  the  west  from  Boscastle  to  St.  Ives, 
trappean  rocks  appear  occasionally,  as  near  Pentire  Point,  for  example. 
Blown  sands  occur  on  the  east  of  Padstow  harbour,  in  St.  Enoder  and  Hell 
Bay,  and  near  Dinas  Head  in  St.  Merrin,  close  to  Trevose  Head ;  between 
Penhale  Point  and  the  Gannal;  at  Perranzabulo,  or  St.  Piran,  in  the  sands; 


,.  . 


and  in  St.  Ives  Bay,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  island,  upon  the  eastern 
shore  of  which  the  sand  accumulates  in  lame  hills. 

Following  the  southern  shore  of  the  county,  from  Mousehole  to  Marazion, 
in  Mount's  Bay,  and  from  the  latter  place  to  Mullion  Island  in  the  Lizard 
promontory,  with  the  intervention  of  trappean  rocks  over  a  small  surface,  the 
same  slate  formation  generally  prevails  on  the  coast,  until  an  elvan  vein  comes 
down  to  a  breadth  of  granite,  occurring  opposite  Germoe  and  Breage,  and  for 
some  way  inland  in  both  these  parishes ;  while  on  the  sea  shore,  in  Trevean 
Cove,  and  east  of  Trewavas  Head,  raised  beaches  are  found.  Nearly  opposite 
Mullion  Island  the  celebrated  serpentine  rocks  of  the  Lizard  commence,  tra- 
versed at  their  commencement  from  north-east  to  south-west,  by  veins  of 
hornblende  and  slate  for  a  short  distance,  the  same  thing  occurring  also  on 
the  north  of  the  formation  as  far  as  the  sea-shore  on  the  Helford  side.  These 
rocks  are  terminated  on  the  south  by  the  diallage  species,  between  the  horn- 
blende and  serpentine.    Of  this  last  and  most  beautiful  of  all  rocks  the  remainder 


b  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

of  the  headland  of  the  Lizard  consists;  except  where  a  mass  of  hornblende 
and  slate  shows  itself  at  Landewednack,  the  extreme  southern  point.  The 
serpentine  contains  asbestus,  and  transverse  veins  of  steatite  or  soap  rock, 
a  soft  saponaceous  substance,  smooth  and  unctuous  to  the  touch,  very  useful 
in  making  china.  It  is  yellowish  white,  with  variegated  veins;  the  best 
approaches  pure  white  in  colour.  From  where  the  hornblende  rock  and  slate, 
before  mentioned,  commence  to  the  south  of  Helford,  at  which  place  a  small 
mass  of  limestone  in  grauwacke  appears,  and  proceeding  northward  along 
the  shores  of  Falmouth  harbour,  round  to  St.  Anthony's  Point,  and  all  the 
way  from  thence  to  the  Rame  Head,  the  same  slate  formation  is  found,  even 
more  uniformly  than  on  the  northern  coast.  In  Veryan,  limestone  shows 
itself  near  the  Nare  Head ;  in  this  district,  too,  are  conglomerates,  serpentine 
and  diallage.  In  Gorran,  north-east  of  Gorran  Haven,  limestone  in  grauwacke 
occurs ;  and  also  more  to  the  eastward,  opposite  Lanteglos,  at  Pencarra  Head. 
The  limestone  of  Talland  Bay  resembles  that  of  Plymouth.*  A  small  mass 
of  limestone  in  grauwacke  occurs  east  of  the  entrance  to  the  Looe  River. 

Having  thus  followed  the  geological  strata  along  the  entire  coast,  it  will  be 
proper  to  give  a  mere  outline  of  the  appearances  of  the  interior  surface,  in  as 
concise  a  manner  as  possible.  Let  the  reader  imagine  that  part  of  the  county, 
formed  by  the  Tamar,  and  a  line  drawn  from  a  little  below  Launceston  towards 
Boscastle,  belonging  to  the  carbonaceous  series  of  North  Devon,  to  be  omitted. 
This  class  pi'esents  little  for  observation ;  and  in  fact  scarcely  differs  from 
that  to  the  southward  in  its  general  character  before  the  common  ob- 
server, though  to  the  geologist  the  distinction  is  important  as  marking  a 
different  date  of  formation.  South  of  this  boundary,  then,  and  bordering  upon 
a  large  elevated  mass  of  granite  that  extends  from  near  Camelford  to  St.  Clare 
in  its  broadest  part;  and  nearly  from  Altcrnon  to  Cardinham,  in  another, 
trappean  rocks  occasionally  come  up,  associated  with  the  slate.     Elvansf  lie 

*  It  is  burned  upon  the  spot  in  considerable  quantities.  Mr.  De  la  Beche  has  not  laid  this  down  in 
his  map.     The  people  call  the  place,  "  Talland  Sand."     It  has  been  observed  by  ourselves. 

f  It  is  proper  to  explain  that  the  Cornish  call  granite,  growan ;  slate  and  schist,  killas ;  and  granite 
and  felspar  porphyry  occurring  in  veins,  sometimes  of  more  than  adamantine  hardness,  elvan.  The 
last  term  has  been  adopted  by  Mr.  De  la  Beche,  in  his  laborious  investigation  of  the  Western 
Geology,  to  which  every  one  curious  upon  this  subject  cannot  but  refer.  Elvan  is  old  Cornish,  derived 
from  elven,  a  spark,  because  this  species  of  rock  is  so  hard  as  to  strike  fire. 

It  will  not  do  to  pass  over  the  Cornish  language  without  some  observations,  as  useful  words  are 
thus  borrowed  from  it.  It  was  the  most  pleasing  of  the  three  dialects  into  which  the  ancient  language 
of  the  Britons  was  changed,  by  the  separation  of  that  people,  and  their  distance  of  residence  from 
each  other,  in  Wales,  Cornwall,  and  Brittany,  the  last  then  called  Armorica.  The  Cornish  varied  so 
much  from  the  Welsh,  that  the  latter  people  have  a  difficulty  in  comprehending  a  poem,  in  the  Bodleian 
Library,  Oxford,  written  in  the  Cornish  tongue.  The  Cornish  was  softer  than  the  Welsh ;  thus,  for 
Cromlech,  the  Cornish  would  write  Cromleh ;  in  place  of  Ihwch,  a  lake,  the  Cornish  would  be,  luh. 
The  substantive  was  commonly  placed  before  the  adjective ;  Truru-vean,  little  Truro.  The  pre- 
position was  sometimes  placed  after  the  case  governed ;  the  nominative  case  governed  and  the 
preposition  were  both  often  incorporated  with  the  verb.  Letters  were  omitted  or  inserted  at  the 
beginning  or  end  of  syllables,  for  brevity  or  expression's  sake;  and,  like  the  Greek,  the  Cornish 


CORNWALL. 


southward  of  North  Hill,  and  also  southward  of  the  great  granite  mass,  as 
well  as  southward  of  Warleggan,  and  between  Blisland  and  Helland ;  while 
west  of  the  granite,  which  here  composes  the  crests  of  the  loftiest  hills  in  the 
county,  trappean  rocks  occasionally  appear,  intermingled  with  the  slate  as 
far  as  Pcntirc.  They  are  seen,  too,  south-west  of  Liskcard,  as  far  as  Men- 
heniot,  Landrake,  and  St.  Germains,  in  the  same  detached  manner.  South  of 
Liskeard  a  mass  of  serpentine  is  discoverable  at  Clicker  Tor.  North  of  Morval, 
limestone     appears,     and 

again    more    towards    St.  .^U\'        "  -   '     -- 

Germains,  but  in  trifling 
quantity.  The  next  great 
island  of  granite,  pushing 
up  through  this  ocean  of 
schistine  rock,  stretches 
nearly  from  the  Fowey 
river  to  St.  Enoder,  lon- 
gitudinally, and  from  St. 
Austle,  in  breadth,  north- 
wards to  Roche,  where  a 
singular  mass  of  granite 


protrudes  above  the  sur- 
face, crowned  with  a  ruin. 

Upon  the  skirts  of  this  granite,  elvan  veins  occur,  extending  towards 
St.  Columb,  generally  in  a  direction  from  east  to  west ;  yet  one,  on  the  contrary, 
is  traced  north  and  south,  from  Mawgan  Porth  to  St.  Michael,  or  near  the  latter 
place.  The  same  kind  of  veins  occurs  to  the  south ;  one  termination  of  them 
being  in  the  sea,  north  and  south  of  Blackhead ;   St.  Austle,  which  is  north 


admitted  the  formation  of  compound  words.  There  are  Cornish  manuscripts  in  the  Bodleian  library, 
and  a  vocabulary  many  centuries  old  is  in  the  Cottonian.  There  is  also  a  Grammar,  now  become 
scarce,  written  by  Mr.  E.  Lhuyd,  in  1700.  The  old  names  in  mining,  agriculture,  fishing,  and  building, 
are  still  more  commonly  in  use  than  the  English  ones  ;  and  the  names  of  manors,  and  of  the  local 
topography,  generally,  are  all  in  the  Cornish,  as  well  as  the  names  of  many  county  families  ;  as,  for 
example,  Polwhele,  Polkinghorn,  Trevanion,  Tresilian,  Penwarne,  Pendarves  : — 

By  Pol,  Tre,  and  Pen, 

You  may  know  the  Cornisli  men. 

Among  the  people  many  ancient  Cornish  expressions  still  exist,  in  the  remoter  parts  of  the  county, 
which  cannot  be  understood  elsewhere.  A  mother  will  say  to  her  chatterbox  child,  "  What  a  tongue 
tabas  you  are !"  a  corruption  of  "  tau  tavas"  or  "  tau  tabas,"  hold  your  tongue  ;  the  b  and  v  being 
indiscriminately  used  in  the  old  Cornish.  "  Are  you  going  to  bal  f — "  Are  you  going  to  the  place 
of  work  at  the  mine  ?" — is  still  used ;  "  bal"  meaning  "  place."  "  Child-vean" — "  little  child,"  is  used 
as  a  term  of  familiar  endearment ;  just  as  an  Italian  would  use  a  diminutive.  "  Oh  my  cheins  /" 
or  back,  is  still  common  for  "  Oh  my  back !"  "  Clunk"  to  swallow,  is  still  used,  as  well  as 
"  krum,"  crooked :  many  examples  might  be  quoted.  A  man  who  entered  a  room  where  all 
the  chairs  were  pre-occupied,  might  be  told,  for  example,  "  You  are  cut  out  of  the  flleuhan ;" 
which  is  a  miner's  term  in  the  Cornish  tongue  for  the  earth  that  cuts  off  a  lode.     The  origin 


8  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

of  most  of  them,  having  between  that  place  and  the  el  vans,  a  vein  of  trappean 
rocks,  of  the  same  species  with  those  described  before  as  occurring  near  the 
granite.  Except  elvan  veins  about  Cuthbert  and  Newlyn,  and  a  mass  of 
granite  of  a  peculiar  character  on  Cligga  Head,  which  were  omitted  in  enume- 
rating the  rocks  on  the  northern  coast,  the  extensive  outbreak  of  granite  in 
and  bordering  upon  which  are  the  most  important  of  the  Cornish  mines, 
commences  north-east  of  Redruth,  extending  to  St.  Day.*  Westward,  towards 
Illogan,  veins  of  elvan  and  trap  appear ;  and  southward,  being  interrupted  by 
the  prevalent  formation  for  a  small  breadth,  the  granite  again  rises,  and  extends 
south-east  to  Budock,  near  Falmouth ;  on  which  side  elvan  veins  and  trap,  the 
former  running  into  the  granite,  go  north-eastward,  towards  Truro,  crossing 
the  great  mining  parish  of  Gwennap.  On  the  west,  the  granite  extends  upon 
the  surface  to  Crowan  ;  on  the  south-west,  to  beyond  Wendron  ;  and  south,  to 
between  Constantine  and  the  Helford  river,  approaching  Helston,  near  which 
trap  rocks  of  no  great  extent  intervene ;  as  Avell  as  on  the  north-west,  where 
they  appear  alternately  with  elvan.  Near  Mawgan,  in  Kirrier,  elvan  veins 
cross  the  bed  of  the  Helford  river. 

A  few  words  may  be  proper  here  respecting  the  climate  of  Cornwall,  to 
which  many  peculiarities  attach,  in  the  western  part  more  especially.  The 
south-eastern  portion  resembles  that  of  the  coast  of  the  south  of  Devonshire, 
of  which  it  is  but  a  continuation,  with  a  difference  of  latitude  in  no  sense 
material.  The  central  ridge  of  hills  causes  a  marked  dissimilarity  between  the 
northern  and  southern  coasts  of  Cornwall,  until  these  hills  decrease  in  elevation 
to  the  westward.     The  ocean  winds  then  sweep  across  the  narrower  part  of 

of  many  English  terms  may  be  found  in  this  language.  There  are  some  the  same  as  in  the  existing 
French,  particularly  "  defendu"  in  Cornish  "  defendis,"  forbidden  ;  "  Faut,"  must,  and  "  ma  faut" 
I  want.  Of  Hebrew  words,  proving  an  intercourse  with  the  Jews,  there  are  names  of  places 
strikingly  in  point,—  Faran-zabulon,  Phillack,  Menachan,  Zephni,  Eonithon,  and  Marazion.  The 
Jews  anciently  worked  the  mines.  It  may  be  observed  too,  that  the  Carthaginian  and  Phoenician 
languages  were  but  dialects  of  the  Hebrew,  as  Mr.  Warner  well  observes  in  bis  Cornish  Tour.  Of 
Spanish  intercourse  with  Cornwall  there  are  also  proofs  in  Cornish  words,  as  "  cariad," — caridad, 
benevolence,  and  others;  but  the  custom,  differing  so  much  from  all  the  rest  of  England, and  still  in 
existence  in  Cornwall,  of  calling  old  people,  by  way  of  respect,  uncle  and  aunt,  in  place  of  grandfather 
and  grandmother,  or  grandpa  and  grandma,  is  the  most  striking :  "  Well,  Uncle  John,  how  are  you 
to-day  ?"  "  Un  (for  aunt)  Jenny  is  gone  home."  There  is  no  country  besides  Spain,  (most  in  An- 
dalusia there,)  that  the  writer  knows  of,  where  the  like  custom  among  the  common  people  prevails 
of  addressing  an  old  man  with  Tio,  uncle.     The  following  are  Cornish  proverbs  : — 

Neb  na  gare  y  gwayn  coll  restoua, — He  that  heeds  not  gain,  must  expect  loss. 

Neb  na  gare  y  gy  an  gwra  deveeder, — He  that  regards  not  his  dog,  will  make  him  a  choke-sheep. 

Guel  yw  guetha  vel  goofen, — It  is  better  to  keep  than  beg. 

Gura  da,  rag  ta  honan  te  yn  gura, — Do  good,  thou  dost  it  for  thyself. 

Nyn  ges  gun  heb  lagas,  na  kei  heb  scovern, — There  is  no  downs  without  eye,  no  hedge  without  ears. 

*  Many  of  the  local  names,  there  is  no  doubt,  retain  the  pronunciation  of  the  old  language ;  thus 
St.  Agnes  is  pronounced,  St.  Ann's  ;  Feock,  Vague  ;  Constantino,  Constenton ;  Restronget,  Strang- 
wych ;  St.  Clare,  is  St.  Cleer ;  St.  Day,  St.  Dye  ;  Michael,  Michel ;  Ludgvan,  Ludjan  ;  Cuthbert, 
Cubert ;  Portyssic,  meaning  the  "  port  of  the  creek,"  has,  on  the  other  hand,  been  Saxonised  by  habit 
into  Port  Isaac ;  and  De  la  Bole,  into  Dennyball. 


CORNWALL.  9 

the  peninsula,  without  that  interception  of  their  vapour  which  to  the  east- 
ward is  continually  taking  place ;  causing  more  rain  on  the  northern  side 
of  the  hills  at  certain  seasons  than  on  the  southern,  and  the  reverse.  Thus  a 
south  wind  which  brings  in  this  county  a  fine  rain,  putting  on  the  appearance 
of  mist,  and  a  south-west  wind  which  also  brings  rain,  either  drive  the  clouds 
full  upon  the  southern  shore,  or  traverse  the  county  longitudinally  on  each 
side  of  the  high  central  ridge  ;  while  northern,  north-western,  and  western 
showers,  are  felt  most  copiously  on  the  northern  side  of  the  hills.  In  the 
west  of  Cornwall,  where  the  continuous  elevation  of  the  land  is  not  lofty 
enough  to  intercept  the  clouds,  they  are  borne  across  the  promontory,  which  is 
there  only  a  few  miles  in  breadth,  and  the  terrene  partakes  more  of  the  cha- 
racter of  the  oceanic  atmosphere. 

The  characteristic  of  this  county  generally  is  that  of  freedom  from  extremes 
of  heat  or  cold.  Myrtles  may  be  seen  along  the  entire  southern  coast,  as  at 
Looe,  growing  in  the  shrubberies  close  to  the  sea,  but  sheltered  from  the 
violence  of  the  prevalent  wind  by  the  hills.  There  is  no  greater  mistake,  than 
to  suppose  the  warm  vicinity  of  the  sea  unfavourable  to  the  vegetation  of  any 
but  a  few  very  peculiar  trees  and  shrubs,  since  warmth  is  favourable  alike  to 
animal  and  vegetable  existence.  The  violence  of  the  tempest  in  the  direction 
of  the  prevalent  winds,  is  seen  in  Cornwall  by  the  shape  of  the  few  solitary 
trees  exposed  to  them ;  which  grow  with  an  inclination  towards  the  opposite 
direction  from  that  whence  the  wind  blows  ;  and  in  that  direction  alone  the 
foliage  is  observed  to  expand  itself.  In  the  valleys  of  Cornwall,  where  there 
is  shelter  from  the  west  and  south-west  winds,  the  more  delicate  plants 
bloom  in  the  open  air;  which  is  not  more  saline  here  than  elsewhere.  In 
the  narrower  part  of  the  county,  and  on  the  lofty  central  land,  the  hedges, 
scanty  of  trees,  make  the  stranger  imagine  that  none  will  grow ;  while  the 
valleys,  in  many  places,  present  pictures  of  foliage  no  where  surpassed  in 
beauty.  Nor  is  this  a  subject  for  wonder,  when  it  is  recollected  with  what 
fury  the  storms  of  winter  sweep  across  the  county,  purifying  the  air,  but 
violent  enough  to  uproot  the  sturdiest  oaks.  So  far  from  the  sea  being  pre- 
judicial to  vegetation,  corn  ripens  even  upon  the  western  cliffs,  two  hundred 
feet  above  the  waves.  At  Penzance,  close  to  the  sea,  in  the  narrowest 
part  of  the  peninsula,  there  are  florists  whose  gardens  are  unrivalled  in  the  pro- 
duction of  beautiful  flowers  and  shrubs,  grown  in  the  open  air.  That  vicinity 
is  rich  in  what  are  exotic  to  the  rest  of  England  out  of  the  greenhouse ;  and 
the  same  thing  is  observable  near  Falmouth.  Even  near  St.  Ives,  a  situation 
on  the  north  more  exposed  than  that  of  Penzance,  in  cottage  gardens  wherever 
there  is  shelter,  the  fuchsia  may  be  seen  growing  to  five  and  six  feet  in  height, 
without  care,  displaying  in  profusion  its  crimson  pensile  flowers ;  while  the 
hydrangea  is  a  plant  of  the  shrubbery,  attaining  seven  or  eight  feet  in  height, 
and  twenty  or  more  in  circumference.  The  "  verbena  tryphillia,"  grows  to 
an  enormous  size  in  the  shrubbery.     The  geranium  flowers  in  the  summer,  as 

c 


10 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


well  as  the  myrtle,  after  an  exposure  during  the  entire  winter  to  the  vicissitudes 
of  the  atmosphere.  The  great  American  aloe  has  flowered  in  three  different 
places  in  the  west  of  the  county,  all  in  the  open  air  and  near  the  sea.  Some 
of  the  myrtles,  trained  against  the  fronts  of  the  houses,  reach  above  twenty 
feet  in  height;  and  in  the  shrubberies,  attain  from  seven  to  ten.  The  bay 
grows  to  a  considerable  tree.  The  "  Sibthorpia  Europoca"  here  thrives  in  the 
garden  during  winter,  and  numerous  other  plants,  which  perish  in  common 
winters  in  the  central  counties  of  England.  Here  too  grow  wild  the  tamarisk, 
erica  vagans,  and  several  other  rarities.  The  submarine  plants  are  various  and 
beautiful.  Here  cabbages  are  on  the  table  in  February ;  turnips  by  the  end 
of  March ;  brocoli,  at  Christmas ;  and  green  peas,  the  second  week  in  May. 
The  first  crop  of  potatoes  is  often  planted  in  November,  and  dug  up  in  April, 
May,  and  June ;  and  the  second  crop  is  put  into  the  ground  sometimes  as  late 
as  the  middle  of  July. 

The  cause  of  all  this  arises  out  of  the  equable  temperature  of  the  climate. 
The  winters  are  mild,  and  the  summers  cool ;  and  both  are  more  so  in  the 
western  than  in  the  eastern  division  of  the  county.  The  influence  of  the  ocean 
in  moderating  excess  of  temperature,  is  thus  remarkably  obvious.  There  is 
not  heat  enough  to  ripen  the  grape,  and  barely  the  common  kinds  of  Avall- 
fruit;  neither  is  there  ice  thick  enough  to  bear  a  skater,  more  than  two  or 
three  times  in  thirty  or  forty  years. 

"  Our  change  of  latitude,"  says  Dr.  Maton,  in  his  tour  to  Mounts  Bay, 
"  began  to  be  very  sensible,  or  at  least  we  imagined  so ;  for  Ave  experienced  a 
peculiar  softness  and  salubrity  in  the  air  during  our  progress  from  Falmouth 
to  the  Land's  End.  Notwithstanding  frequent  rains,  I  do  not  conceive  that 
the  air  is  rendered  less  fit  for  respiration,  because  it  is  never  charged  with 
exhalations  from  bogs  or  stagnant  waters.  The  putrid,  sultry  calms,  which  we 
often  experience  in  the  interior  parts  of  England,  are  prevented  in  this  county 
by  the  breezes  from  the  west,  which  occasion  a  wholesome  circulation  of 
the  air."     Mounts  Bay,  here  delineated,  has  a  warm  southern  aspect. 


In  Cornwall,  particularly  in  the  western  part,  the  temperature  of  the  nights 
approaches  much  nearer  to  that  of  the  days,  than  in  the  midland  and  eastern 


CORNWALL.  1 1 

counties ;  so  that  frequently  at  nine  or  ten  at  night,  the  mercury  has  not  sunk 
more  than  a  degree  below  that  marked  at  noonday.  This  equability  affords 
a  singular  contrast  to  the  chill  of  the  nights  of  summer  near  the  metropolis, 
which  prevents  sitting  in  the  open  air  after  sun-set.* 

The  moisture  ascribed  to  the  climate  is  required  by  the  dry  porous  nature  of 
the  soil.  The  heaviest  rains  do  not  lodge,  but  are  speedily  carried  to  the  ocean 
through  the  hilly  nature  of  the  country,  the  ground  drying  rapidly.  Cornwall 
is  little  liable  to  hail-storms;  but  those  of  thunder,  in  winter  particularly, 
though  rare,  are  observed  to  cause  more  accidents  than  is  usual  in  other  places, 
and  to  break  with  great  violence. 

Snow  lies  but  a  short  time,  seldom  more  than  two  or  three  days ;  and  in  the 
extreme  west  has  rarely  been  seen  to  remain  at  all  upon  the  ground,  although, 
when  very  hard  winters  occur  to  the  eastward,  their  effects  are  felt,  but  miti- 
gated by  position.  There  have  been  successive  years  when  the  thermometer  has 
not  been  under  39°  of  Fahrenheit.  Many  winters  hardly  put  on  the  character  of 
the  season  at  all.  Nothing-  can  be  more  delicious  to  the  feelings  than  some 
of  the  fine  days  of  such  a  season,  the  sun  shining  in  January,  the  air  soft  and 
agreeably  warm,  and  spring  itself  looking  out  of  the  lap  of  winter.  The 
spring  season  is  much  prolonged  in  Cornwall :  its  advances  are  in  consequence 
not  so  energetic  and  rapid  as  in  the  counties  more  to  the  eastward,  nor 
indeed  so  obviously  perceptible,  coming  on  by  stealth,  sometimes  as  early  as 
February.  The  martin  is  often  seen  in  the  month  of  March  in  this  county, 
and  the  chaffinch  trills  its  note  at  the  end  of  December.  Borlase  observes  that 
even  at  this  season  but  few  days  are  thoroughly  wet ;   there  is  generally  some 

*  The  extraordinary  mildness  of  the  temperature  in  Cornwall  is  confirmed  by  comparative  obser- 
vations of  a  recent  date,  made  with  great  care.  These  show  the  mean  annual  temperature  at  Penzance, 
for  twenty-one  years,  according  to  Mr.  Giddy,  to  be  54.5  Fahr.  That  of  spring  is  49.66  ;  summer,  60.50 ; 
autumn,  53.83 ;  and  winter,  44.66.  London  has  a  mean  annual  temperature  of  50.39,  differently 
distributed  in  the  seasons;  spring,  48.76;  summer,  62.32;  autumn,  51.35;  and  winter,  39.12.  The 
difference  of  the  mean  temperature  of  winter  and  summer,  in  London,  is  23.20;  in  Penzance,  15.84. 
Again,  the  difference  of  the  mean  temperature  of  the  hottest  and  coldest  months  is,  London,  26.17, 
Penzance,  18,50.  The  annual  range  is,  in  Penzance,  49  ;  London,  64.  The  maximum  of  Fahrenheit 
in  London,  86  ;  Penzance,  76  :  minimum,  environs  of  London,  22  ;  Penzance,  27.  Mean  of  the 
monthly  ranges,  London,  34,  Penzance,  24.  The  mean  range  of  the  daily  temperature  for  the  year  is, 
London,  11,  Penzance,  6.7.  The  extreme  of  daily  variation  for  the  year  in  London  is,  rise  18°,  fall  21° ; 
Penzance,  rise  10°,  fall  (no  record).  Cornwall  therefore  possesses  one  of  the  most  equable  tempera- 
tures in  Europe,  hence  its  value  as  a  resort  for  persons  fearing  incipient  consumption. 

The  number  of  fine  days  in  the  west  of  Cornwall  has  been  calculated  at  1 14  ;  cloudy  or  variable,  87  ; 
rain,  164.  An  average  of  seven  years  gave  177  for  the  number  of  days  in  which  rain  falls.  In  London 
the  number  is  about  the  same ;  but  then  in  London  the  mean  quantity  is  only  25.686  inches,  while  in 
Cornwall  the  quantity  is  above  that  falling  at  Milan  ;  being  upwards  of  forty-three  inches,  or  four-fifths 
of  the  quantity  which  falls  at  Kendal  in  Westmoreland,  the  most  noted  for  frequency  and  quantity  of 
rain  of  any  place  in  England.  The  wettest  months  in  Cornwall  are  October,  November,  December, 
and  January ;  and  the  quantity  of  rain  in  inches,  39.295,  36.035,  42.075,  and  26.825,  respectively. 
These  observations  are  the  results  of  different  years,  made  by  different  individuals,  and  show  plainly 
that  the  statement  of  Cornwall  being  a  rainy  county,  does  not  apply  to  the  frequency  of  rain,  but  to 
the  quantity. 


12  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NIXETEENTII  CENTURY. 

intermission,  so  that  "the  sun  will  find  a  time  to  shine."  When  the  rain 
falls  for  a  day's  continuance,  it  falls  heavily.  The  number  of  dry  days  being 
considerable,  and  the  balminess  of  the  air  in  the  intervals  of  the  winter  rains 
exceedingly  agreeable,  with  the  inhabitants  awake  to  the  feeling  it  imparts, 
it  is  not  wonderful  they  are  greatly  attached  to  their  climate. 

The  A-iolence  of  the  storms  has  been  already  alluded  to, — and  no  language 
can  adequately  describe  their  fury.  The  winds  careering,  without  obstruction, 
over  the  immense  superficies  of  the  Atlantic,  seem  to  recoil  from  the  Cornish 
promontory  only  to  gather  fresh  energy  and  augment  the  unavailing  rage  of 
their  attacks.  The  Long-ship's  light-house  at  the  Land's  End  stands  upon 
a  rock  sixty  feet  above  the  water,  and  its  lantern  at  the  summit  of  all,  yet  even 
that  is  frequently  buried  in  the  broken  water  of  the  mountain  surges  that 
lash  the  reef,  recoil,  and  again  break  in  worlds  of  foam  upon  the  granite  ridge, 
dashing  up  the  sides  of  the  main  rock,  and  falling  like  a  succession  of  snowy 
avalanches.  The  Land's  End  promontory  is  a  low  point  compared  to  its 
brethren  north  and  south,  being  only  sixty  or  seventy  feet  above  the  ocean 
level,  while  its  brethren  on  both  sides  rise  between  two  and  three  hundred, 
yet  far  above  its  granite  brow  is  the  sea-foam  carried  in  a  storm,  over  the  land 
still  ascending,  and  then  quite  across  the  peninsula,  in  showers,  resembling 
snow-white  feathers — a  sight  at  once  novel  and  terrific. 

Cornwall  is  nearly  insulated  by  the  Tamar  on  the  eastern  side,  which  borders 
upon  Devonshire.  Hence  it  arises  that  the  main  roads,  into  the  county  west- 
ward, are  continued  by  bridges,  or  interrupted  by  ferries.  From  Plymouth  there 
are  ferries  as  far  as  the  road  from  Tavistock  to  Callington,  twenty  miles 
towards  the  source  of  the  Tamar.  The  first  bridge  is  called  Newbridge,*  and 
is  situated  in  a  very  picturesque  spot,  just  above  a  place  denominated  the 
Weir-head,  beyond  the  reach  of  the  tide.  The  next  bridge,  anciently  called 
Ilawte  Bridge,  but  now  High,  or  Horsebridge,  stands  in  the  parish  of  Stoke- 
climsland,  about  four  miles  by  the  river  above  Newbridge ;  the  third  is  called 
Greston  Bridge,  on  the  road  from  Tavistock  to  Launceston ;  then  there  is 
another  of  wood,  between  that  and  Poulston;  over  which  last  is  the  central 
mail-road  from  London,  by  way  of  Exeter  and  Okehampton,  to  Falmouth. 

The  last  place  of  note  in  Devonshire,  before  crossing  the  Tamar  towards 
Launceston,  is  Lifton,  about  five  miles  distant.  Evening  had  come  upon  a  sultry 
August  day,  when  we  descended  the  hill  leading  to  Poulston  Bridge  from  this 
village.  Below,  extended  the  charming  vale  of  the  Tamar,  widening  consider- 
ably, clothed  in  the  richest  verdure,  and  everywhere  exhibiting  great  pic- 
turesque beauty.  From  the  Cornish  side  of  the  vale,  a  line  of  hill  uprose 
and  bounded  the  view,  presenting  an  even  summit,  except  where  it  was 
interrupted  by  that  "  keep  of  terrible  strength,"  to  borrow  the  words  of  an  old 
writer,    which    now  constitutes  nearly  all  remaining    of  Launceston   castle. 

*  Leland  mentions  a  bridge  at  Calstock,  begun  in  his  time  by  Sir  Perse  Edgcombe,  but  there  is  no 
such  bridge  now ;  hence  some  suppose  Newbridge  is  intended. 


CORNWALL. 


13 


The  outline  of  this  keep  resembles  no  other  in  England,  appearing  like 
a  double  cylinder,  or  one  cylinder  standing  within  another  of  larger  size, 
so  that  it  was  difficult  to  reconcile  the  reality  with  the  aspect.  Behind 
this  object  the  heavens  were  luminous,  while  in  other  quarters  they  were  so 
overclouded  that  the  valley  was  thrown  into  shade,  and  intervening  objects 
beneath  our  feet  presented  themselves  in  undefined  masses.  The  Tamar  runs 
here  close  to  the  foot  of  the  declivity,  upon  the  side  of  Devon,  leaving  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  level  ground  on  the  other  shore.  Poulston  Bridge  consists 
of  several  arches, — that  in  the  centre  of  iron.  It  was  just  light  enough  to  see 
the  overshadowed  river  darkly  gleaming  below,  with  a  rapid  but  noiseless 
current,  and  to  distinguish  that  some  of  the  hills  furthest  off  were  clothed  with 
wood  and  coppice.  The  traveller  is  now  in  Cornwall;  and,  after  passing  a 
mile  and  a  half  of  excellent  road  from  the  bridge,  finds  himself  in  the  good 
town  of  Launceston. 

The  "  Rocky  land  of  strangers,"  as  Cornwall  has  been  styled,  carried  no  marks 
of  the  justice  of  the  appellation  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Launceston,* 
which  is  a  district  eminently  agricultural,  disputing  with  that  between  the 
rivers  Fowey  and  Fal  the  title  of  the  "  granary  of  Cornwall."  Corn  fields 
everywhere  around  waved  in  rich  luxuriance. 

This  town  is  entered  under  the  gate- 
way delineated  below,  once  belong- 
ing to  the  town  walls,  of  which  there 

are  a  few  remains;  and  the  room  over  Jtf= 

it  even  now  serves  the  purpose  of  a 
town  gaol,  as  it  did  in  the  time  of 
Henry  VIII.  f  Over  the  roof,  and 
over  the  houses  within,  seen  from  the 
approach  by  the  turnpike-road,  the 
ruins  of  the  castle  uprise  loftily,  bearing 
the  recollections  of  a  thousand  years 
upon  their  rent  and  shattered  frag- 
ments. It  is  singular,  whilst  the  anti- 
quity of  the  castle  is  so  great  as  to  have 
left  no  record  of  its  foundation,  and 
while  the  existence  of  Launceston  is 
authenticated  as  far  back  as  the  year 
900,  that  no  antiquities  have  been  dis- 
covered in  the  town ;  a  Saxon  door-way 

to  the  White  Hart  Inn,  instanced  in  proof  to  the  contrary,  having  been 
brought  from  the  castle  or  priory  ruins.  Launceston  is  about  eighty  miles 
from  the  Land's  End,  and  stands  upon  an  elevation,  one  side  of  which  declines 

*  Anciently  called  "  Dunlieved,"  or  the  "  Swelling  Hill."     It  was  founded  by  Eadulphus,  of  the 
line  of  the  "Dukes  and  Earls  of  Cornwall.  t  Leland. 


14 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


with  considerable  abruptness  down  to  the  little  river  Attery,  affording  an 
extensive  view  over  the  suburbs,  to  where  the  church  of  St.  Stephen  forms  a 
conspicuous  object.  Pleasing  as  this  prospect  is,  it  by  no  means  equals  that 
from  the  side  of  the  hill  upon  which  St.  Stephen's  church  stands.  From 
thence  Launceston  is  seen  at  the  back  of  the  castle,  the  keep  of  which  towers 
with  a  boldness  and  grandeur  scarcely  possible  to  be  exceeded.  The  mound, 
rising  above  the  summit  of  the  hill,  acquires  a  double  elevation,  and  impresses 
the  mind  not  only  with  its  own  grand  features,  but  connects  them  with 
by-gone  times  and  the  wrecks  of  perished  greatness.  There  the  ruins,  almost 
impending,  whisper  not  only  of  human  mutability  in  the  past,  but  throw  out 
bosom  hints  of  the  fate  that  must  involve  present  things,  stamping  our  regret 
with  something  of  selfishness.  It  is  scarcely  possible  to  imagine  an  equal  in 
effect,  to  this  view  of  the  castle,  a  circumstance  mainly  owing  to  the  happiness 
of  its  position,  and  the  singularity  of  its  outline. 

The  erection  of  the  castle  has  been  ascribed,  upon  grounds  by  no  means  satis- 
factory, to  William,  Earl  of  Moreton  and  Cornwall,  in  the  reign  of  William  I. ; 
but  there  is  no  doubt  that  a  great  deal  of  the  building  is  more  ancient;  not  to 
mention  again  its  want  of  similarity  to  any  of  the  ruins  of  the  numerous  castles 

of  that  period,  still  in  existence,  by 
which  the  work  might  be  tested.  The 
mention  of  the  gift  to  the  Earl  of  More- 
ton,  would  naturally  of  itself  imply  a 
prior  existence.  The  annexed  engrav- 
ing is  a  faithful  view  of  this  interesting 
relic  of  antiquity. 

The  entrance,  ten  or  twelve  feet  wide, 
is  on  the  south-west  side,  between 
parallel  walls,  at  right  angles  with  the 
outer  wall  of  the  base  court ;  to  pass 
into  which  the  great  gate  must  first  be 
cleared,  or  rather  its  site,  for  little  of 
it  now  remains.  At  the  end  of  this 
entrance,  another  gate  leads  into  the 
base-court,  the  sides  of  which  are  about 
four  hundred  feet  square,  with  towers 
at  the  angles;  the  walls,  where  they 
are  entire,  indicating  great  strength,  are 
fenced  externally  with  a  deep  ditch;  except  where,  as  on  the  side  next 
St.  Stephen's,  the  ground  rendered  the  precaution  useless  from  its  natural  steep- 
ness. The  mound  upon  which  the  keep  stands  is  situated  at  the  south-east 
corner  of  this  court, — an  enormous  artificial  hill,  nearly  one  hundred  feet  high, 
the  same  measure  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and  upwards  of  ninety  feet  in 
circuit  at  the  summit.     Upon  this  formidable  eminence  towers  a  yet  more 


CORNWALL.  1 5 

formidable  work  of  defence,  as  singular  in  construction,  as  well  adapted  to  the 
object  for  which  it  was  erected.  There  are  remains,  more  or  less  consider- 
able, of  three  walls  upon  the  summit.  The  first,  low,  and  intended  for  a 
line  of  resistance  to  such  as  ascended  the  mound,  if  any  should  venture  upon 
so  daring  a  task,  was  supported  by  a  line  on  the  next  wall,  and  both  by 
another  upon  the  highest  or  third.  The  distance  between  the  outer  and  second 
wall  was  not  more  than  five  or  six  feet:  and  the  outer  wall,  nearly  gone,  was 
about  three  feet  thick.  The  second,  Avhich  is  much  higher,  and  eleven  feet 
thick,  has  in  the  body  of  the  wall  itself  a  staircase  leading  to  the  top.  Seven  or 
eight  feet  within  this  second  inclosure,  a  third  Avail  rises  to  the  height  of  thirty 
feet,  enclosing  a  space  eighteen  feet  in  diameter,  in  which  there  were  evi- 
dently floors,  from  the  places  where  the  joists  rested  being  still  visible ;  the 
uppermost  room  having  two  windows,  with  an  ascent  to  the  summit  of  the 
interior  of  the  whole.  It  is  scarcely  possible  to  imagine  a  stronger  mode  of 
defence,  before  the  invention  of  artillery.  A  triple  line  of  active  resistance  was 
thus  reserved,  on  the  part  of  the  besieged,  against  any  foe  who  might  dare  to 
ascend  the  mound ;  a  task  almost  hopeless  from  its  perpendicularity.  Asa  further 
precaution,  the  entrance  to  the  keep  itself  was  by  one  narrow  way,  defended 
with  equal  skill  by  a  tower,  called  the  "  Witches'  Tower,"  and  by  Avails.  The 
last  garrison  kept  in  this  castle  was  during  the  Avar  betAveen  Charles  I.  and  the 
people  of  England,  Avhen  it  Avas  held,  until  the  ruin  of  the  royal  cause,  by  the 
king's  party  in  the  west. 

From  the  keep  the  view  is  extensive  and  beautiful ;  and  the  prospect  doAvn 
the  valley  toAvards  St.  Stephen's  both  interests  and  surprises,  from  the  abrupt- 
ness and  length  of  the  descent.  Many  Avould  shrink  from  contemplating  it 
from  so  fearful  an  elevation.  Far  beloAV  are  houses  and  gardens,  cottages  and 
fields,  graceful  cultivation  and  busy  industry,  presenting  a  tranquil  and  agree- 
able landscape. 

Lands  Avere  once  held,  under  service  to  the  castle,  from  the  Duchy  of  Corn- 
Avall.  One  estate  Avas  thus  held  by  the  service  of  personal  attendance  to  do 
duty  in  the  castle  for  forty  days  in  time  of  war,  with  an  iron  skull-cap  and  a 
Danish  pole-axe.  The  great  landholders,  too,  Avho  held  fees  of  the  honour  of 
Launceston,  Avere  bound  during  Avar  to  defend  as  many  kernels  of  the  castle  as 
they  held  fees.  This  castle  is  described  as  being  in  a  ruinous  state  as  far  back 
as  1337.  CareAv  speaks  of  its  decayed  state  in  1602  ;  and  in  1650  the  hall  and 
chapel  are  said  to  be  level  Avith  the  ground ;  only  a  toAver,  used  as  a  prison, 
Avas  then  in  repair.  George  Fox,  the  quaker,  was  imprisoned  there  some 
months,  and  calls  the  prison  "doomsdale,"  a  "most  filthy  dungeon."  The 
Duke  of  Northumberland  is  now  the  lessee. 

Before  the  reform  act  Avas  passed  Launceston  returned  four  members  to 
parliament ;  for  its  suburb  of  NeAvport  was  a  little  rotten  borough  returning 
two.  By  that  act,  St.  Stephen  and  St.  Thomas,  Avith  the  parishes  of 
LaAvhitton    and    South   Petherwin,    the    churches   of  Avhich   are  two  miles 


16 


ENGLAND  IX  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


distant,  are  united  with  Launceston  into  one  borough,  which  contains  three 
hundred  voters  in  place  of  twenty,  the  number  voting  for  members  of  par- 
liament in  the  borough  of  Launceston  prior  to  the  passing  of  the  act.  The 
returning  officers  are  called  vlanders.  The  right  of  electing  members  had 
continued  from  the  time  of  Edward  I. ;  before  which  reign  the  town  was  a 
mere  appanage  to  the  Dukes  or  Earls  of  Cornwall,  and  their  constant  residence. 

The  streets  are  narrow,  but  improvements  are  begun.  The  market-hall  is 
about  to  be  rebuilt ;  and  at  the  different  entrances  into  the  town,  new  and 
excellent  houses  are  everywhere  arising,  far  beyond  the  limits  of  the  old  and 
more  inconvenient  streets.  The  roads  around,  and  the  great  mail-road  to  the 
west  in  particular,  are  kept  in  the  best  order,  and  new  and  more  convenient 
deviations  have  been  taken,  at  considerable  expense.  The  public  buildings  do  not 
merit  remark ;  the  latest  erected,  the  union  workhouse,  though  well  adapted  for 
its  object,  is  as  humble  in  architectural  design  as  most  of  its  brethren  in  other 
parts  of  the  country.  The  market-place  is  small.  The  loss  of  the  assizes 
and  the  sessions,  both  being  removed  to  Bodmin,  left  the  town  to  its  own 
resources,  Avhich  are  almost  wholly  agricultural.  It  is  curious  that  by  a 
charter  of  Richard  II.  the  county  assize  is  ordered  to  be  held  at  Launceston, 
"  and  nowhere  else."  The  recent  alteration  has  been  beneficial  to  the  county  at 
large,  since,  before  that  event,  many  persons  had  to  travel  sixty  or  seventy  miles 
to  the  assize-town. 

There  is  a  church  in 
Launceston,  built  of  gra- 
nite, sculptured  with  great 
labour.  It  consists  of  two 
aisles  and  a  nave.  At  the 
end  of  each  of  these  is 
a  window  with  a  pointed 
arch.  The  tower  is  of  a 
date  more  ancient  than 
the  church.  There  is  a 
porch,  rarely  excelled  in 
beauty,  on  the  south  side, 
covered  with  richly  carved 
ornaments.  At  the  east 
end  is  the  figure  of  a  Magdalen  recumbent,  to  which  saint  the  church, 
anciently  a  chapel,  was  originally  dedicated.  The  alteration  of  the  chapel  to 
a  church  took  place  in  the  reign  of  Henry  IV.  Plumes  of  feathers,  arms, 
trophies,  fruit,  panelling,  basso  relievo,  abound,  all  cut  in  granite.  A  Latin 
inscription,*  each  letter  upon  a  shield  between  the  windows,  extends  round 
the  whole  building,  laudatory  of  St.  Mary.     There  are  several  monuments 

*  "  Ave  Maria,  gratise  plena,  dominus  tecum  sponsas,  amat  sponsam  Maria,  optimam  partem  elegit, 
O  quam  terribilis  ac  metuendus  est  locus  iste,  vere  aliud  non  est  hie,  nisi  domus  Dei  et  porta  coeli." 


CORNWALL.  17 

within  this  church ;  one  to  a  zealous  soldier,  named  Pyper,  who  fought  for 
Charles  L,  was  constable  of  Launceston  Castle,  and  died  in  1687,  aged  76. 

A  priory  formerly  existed  in  Launceston,  which  an  old  writer*  describes 
as  "  standing  in  the  west  part  of  the  suburb  of  the  town  under  the  root  of 
the  hill  by  a  fair  wood  side."  It  was  built  by  William  Warwist,  bishop 
of  Exeter,  and  had  the  grant  of  a  sanctuary ;  no  remains  of  it  are  now  in 
existence.  The  mayor  of  Launceston,  singularly  enough,  is  considered  the 
vicar  for  the  duration  of  his  official  year,  and  appoints  his  curate  accordingly. 
The  trade  of  Launceston  is  limited,  but  it  possesses  a  small  woollen  manu- 
factory. Water  carriage  by  means  of  the  Tamar  canal  is  convenient,  the 
principal  imports  coming  by  way  of  Plymouth  up  the  Tamar  into  this  canal. 
The  town  contains  two  charities, — a  Sunday,  and  a  free  grammar  school ;  the 
last  endowed  by  Queen  Elizabeth  with  16/.  per  annum,  and  10/.  bequeathed  in 
1685.  There  was  once  a  hospital  for  lepers  near  Poulston  Bridge,  the  funds 
of  which  are  now  in  the  hands  of  the  corporation.  The  churches  of  St. 
Stephen  and  St.  Thomas,  within  the  borough  of  Launceston,  are  both  ancient 
edifices.  The  first  was  formerly  called  Lanstavestone,  and  has  three  annual 
fairs  and  also  a  charity  school  for  twelve  poor  boys.  That  of  St.  Thomas,  or 
Newport,  is  a  small,  but  antique  building,  the  date  of  its  foundation  being 
uncertain ;  in  its  vicinity  are  several  very  old  dwelling-houses.  The  inhabitants 
nominate  their  own  perpetual  curate.  The  church  of  St.  Stephen  is  a 
structure  of  the  sixteenth  century,  having  a  gothic  tower  of  uncommon  elegance. 
Its  predecessor  was  made  collegiate  before  the  Conquest. 

The  market,  once  held  near  St.  Stephen's  church,  was  removed  to  Laun- 
ceston by  King  John,  to  whom  the  inhabitants  subsequently  paid  five  marks 
for  the  removal  of  the  holding  from  Sunday  to  Thursday.  In  more  recent 
times  it  has  been  held  on  Saturday ;  and  is  well  attended.  There  can  be  no 
better  opportunity  of  observing  the  population  than  upon  a  market  day ;  that 
of  Launceston  appeared  to  be  wholly  agricultural.  The  farmers  seemed  to  be 
a  sturdy  race ;  but  the  women,  neatly  habited,  exhibited  no  more  than  ordi- 
nary pretensions  to  beauty.  One  must  be  excepted,  possessing  attractions  of 
which  she  might  well  be  vain.  Eyes  dark  as  death,  features  nicely  chiselled  and 
of  uncommon  regularity,  hair  of  jet,  and  a  skin  of  singular  clearness,  but  pale  as 
a  "  white  marble  image," — stamped  her  as  one  of  whom  Italy  would  be  proud. 
She  was  dressed,  if  not  with  pure  taste,  at  least  becomingly,  indicating  that 
she  well  understood  what  was  calculated  to  set  her  person  off  to  advantage. 
There  is  a  character  of  person  belonging  to  the  earlier  inhabitants  of  the  county, 
or  arising  from  some  connexion  with  other  than  Saxon  "foreigners,"  which 
must  strike  all  who  scrutinize  them  with  attention.  The  introduction  of  the 
Saxon  breed  into  Cornwall  is  evident  enough  ;  but  there  are  many  who 
exhibit  marks  of  a  southern  extraction,  in  large  black  eyes,  dark  hair,   and 

*  Lei  and. 
D 


18  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

a  swarthy  complexion ;  perhaps  the  descendants  of  settlers  from  the  south 
of  Spain  at  a  very  remote  period.  So  forcibly  was  Warner  struck  by  this 
appearance,  upon  his  tour  into  Cornwall  thirty  years  ago,  that  he  pointedly 
alludes  to  the  ancient  intercourse  between  the  people  of  Cadiz  and  Cornwall 
as  the  probable  origin  of  a  race  so  distinct  from  their  fellow-countrymen. 

The  inhabitants  of  Cornwall  generally  are  a  people  of  kind  and  agreeable 
manners.  During  the  civil  wars  of  the  seventeenth  century  it  was  remarked, 
that  among  the  Cornish  of  that  time  great  allowance  was  made  for  sentiments 
and  interests  in  opposition.  One  of  the  justices  of  the  peace  is  spoken  of,  though 
"  in  office  under  the  usurping  powers,"  as  behaving  with  great  civility  to  the 
distressed  cavaliers,  to  whom  he  always  gave  redress  when  it  was  just.  Of  all 
the  gentry  concerned  on  both  sides,  except  the  Arundels,  this  is  related ;  that 
family,  now  extinct,  once  so  powerful  in  the  county,  was  excepted. 

The  women  of  Cornwall  are  handsome,  but  not  particularly  fresh  coloured;  they 
are  modest,  open  and  unaffected  in  manners,  free  from  that  constraint  which  is 
the  mark  of  a  want  of  good  breeding,  even  where  intercourse  with  society  has 
been  by  no  means  of  an  extensive  character ;  making  correct,  as  relates  to  the 
Cornish  fair,  the  remark  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  respecting  the  gentlemen  of 
the  county,  "That  the  Cornish  gentlemen  were  all  born  courtiers  with  a 
becoming  confidence."  The  men  are  strongly  made,  and  more  active  than  those 
of  the  midland  counties  of  England.  It  was  remarked  of  the  Cornwall  militia, 
under  Colonel  Molesworth,  at  Chatham,  that  they  stood  on  more  ground  than 
any  other  regiment  of  the  same  number.  They  are  uncommonly  well-set ;  their 
old  habits  of  hurling  and  wrestling,  as  well  as  of  labour  without  doors,  no 
doubt  contributing  to  their  muscular  power.  In  the  history  of  Cornwall,  perhaps 
altogether  the  fabulous  history,  the  Cornish  chieftain  and  hero,  Corinaeus,  was 
celebrated  for  his  power  in  Avrestling.  We  are  not  told  whence  his  anta- 
gonist, the  giant  Gogmagog,  came,  but  that  Corinreus  overthrew  him  and 
flung  him  into  the  sea,  down  what  is  called  the  Hoe  at  Plymouth.  Before 
Charles  II.  erected  the  citadel  upon  the  present  site,  there  were  to  be  seen,  cut 
out  in  the  turf,  the  figures  of  the  two  combatants  wrestling,  which,  like  the 
white  horse  in  the  chalk,  on  the  Wiltshire  Downs,  was  kept  cleared  out  down 
to  the  limestone  from  time  immemorial.  In  Cornwall  the  wrestler  is  never 
permitted  to  kick  the  shins  of  his  antagonist.  Every  thing  depends  upon 
main  strength.  Hurling,  now  obsolete,  was  undertaken  by  two  parties,  of  an 
indefinite  number  on  each  side,  sometimes  from  two  parishes  that  were  rivals 
in  the  game.  The  ball  was  a  round  piece  of  wood,  plated  with  silver,  on  which 
was  engraven  a  motto  in  Cornish,  "  Guare  wheag — yw  guare  teag," — or,  "  fair 
play  is  good  play."  The  ball  was  to  be  caught  dexterously  in  spite  of  the  adverse 
party;  to  carry  it  off  requiring  every  species  of  bodily  exertion,  as  well  as  a  quick 
sight.  Mining  and  fishing,  with  alternations  of  cold  and  wet,  are  occupations 
which  harden  the  body;  and  of  wet  from  sea  or  fresh  water  few  Cornishmen  make 
any  account.     The  men  are  generally  of  the  middle  stature,  and  live  to  be 


CORNWALL.  1 9 

old,  when  not  employed  in  the  mines  ;  or,  being  employed  there,  when  they  do 
not  add  intemperance  to  the  confined  nature  of  their  labour.  It  must  be 
observed  that  no  hydrogen  gas  is  generated  in  the  Cornish  mines.  Borlase 
mentions  a  woman  in  Gwythian  parish  dying,  in  1676,  at  164  years  old.  At 
the  Lizard  Point,  the  most  exposed  part  of  Cornwall,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Cole, 
minister  of  Lendewednack,  died  at  120,  and  the  sexton  was  above  100  years 
of  age  when  he  died.  Dr.  Borlase  went,  in  1752,  to  see  a  man  at  the  Lizard 
105  years  old,  of  a  florid  countenance;  he  stood  near  his  door  "leaning  on  his 
staff,"  says  the  doctor,  and  said  he  was  weary  of  life,  and  "  advised  us  never  to 
wish  for  old  age."  He  died  in  1754.  In  the  present  century  instances  are 
quoted  from  103  to  105  repeatedly;  but  the  best  and  most  authentic  statement 
of  the  agricultural  part  of  the  population  is  that  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Trist,  of 
Veryan  parish,  on  the  southern  coast,  who,  upon  a  range  of  thirty  years,  writes 
in  the  present  century  that  the  number  of  persons  of  80  years  buried  in  his  parish, 
averaging  1,220  persons,  was  one  in  eight  of  the  deaths  ;  and  that  this  was  a 
good  criterion  for  the  south-western  coast  of  Cornwall,  and  was  the  same  as 
that  of  Cumberland  ;  that  the  deaths  were  as  one  in  ninety  of  the  population, 
and  those  who  lived  above  ninety  years  old  were  as  one  to  53  |.* 

In  Cornwall  no  coaches  travel  across  the  county,  but,  as  in  many  counties 
so  situated,  there  are  gigs  to  be  hired  at  one  shilling  per  mile  in  most  of  the 
smaller  towns.  The  distance  from  Launceston  to  Stratton  is  eighteen  miles, 
and  in  this  manner  we  performed  the  journey.  It  may  not  be  out  of  place 
to  notice  here,  that  no  post-chaises  are  kept  in  Stratton,  Padstow,  Camelford, 
St.  Columb,  St.  Ives,  Looe,  Fowey,  Tregony,  Grampound,  Saltash,  or  Calling- 
ton,  though  all  market-toAvns. 

It  was  early  in  the  morning  when  we  started  for  Stratton.  The  air  was  cool, 
the  sun,  shrouded  in  clouds,  had  not  yet  exhaled  the  dew ;  a  heart  reviving 
freshness  was  upon  herb  and  tree ;  millions  of  crystal  globules  sparkled 
upon  leaf  and  blade ;  long  threads  of  gossamer  or  of  the  garden  spider  were 
exhibited,  by  being  thus  empearled,  which  were  invisible  at  other  times.  The 
branches  of  the  trees  and  shrubs  were  festooned  with  them  in  glittering  chains 
of  exquisite  minuteness,  as  if  they  had  been  the  work  of  the  "  fairies'  midwife,' 
while  the  world  was  asleep.  The  road  at  starting  pointed  down  into  a 
hollow,  through  which  the  Attery  wound  along,  and  then  ascended  towards 
St.  Stephen's  church,  which  stood  on  the  left-hand  side.  Upon  mounting 
this  hill,  and  looking  back  towards  Launceston,  the  view  of  the  castle  was 
highly  imposing.  There  it  arose  in  the  stillness  of  the  morning,  that  wreck  of 
an  unknown  age,  reared  by  forgotten  hands,  dark,  lonely — 

Majestic  'mid  the  solitude  of  time. 


*  This  must  not  he  taken  as  a  criterion  for  the  entire  county,  where  25,000  persons  are  employed 
in  the  mines  ;  it  must  only  he  considered  in  relation  to  a  class  whose  labour  is  above  ground. 


20  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

Few  of  the  glances  of  the  traveller  light  upon  an  object  calculated  to  preserve 
a  more  lasting  place  in  the  recollection.* 

Soon  after  turning  from  the  vieAV  of  this  impressive  ruin,  and  leaving 
St.  Stephen's  Down  upon  the  left  hand,  Werrington  Park  appeared  on  the 
right  of  the  road,  a  seat  belonging  to  the  Duke  of  Northumberland,  who 
very  rarely,  if  ever,  sojourns  there.  The  house  is  a  very  ordinary-looking 
mansion,  unworthy  of  the  estate.  The  river  Werrington,  which  crosses  the 
road,  runs  through  the  centre  of  the  park ;  and  soon  after  quitting  it,  and 
passing  Ham  Mill,  joins  the  Tamar.  The  woods  of  Werrington  are  fine,  pre- 
cisely where  their  retirement  is  most  inviting.  Dark  masses  of  foliage  and 
intermingled  meadows,  the  beautiful  and  secluded,  though  here  to  be  met  with 
in  perfection,  seem  to  be  enjoyed  by  nobody.  This  estate  is  partly  in  Devon, 
and  partly  in  Cornwall ;  being  situated  in  one  of  the  parishes  the  civil  govern- 
ment of  which,  the  land  being  once  their  property,  the  monks  of  Tavistock 
contrived  to  dispart  from  Cornwall,  although  the  ecclesiastical  superintendence 
still  attaches  to  that  county.     The  house  is  within  the  Devonshire  limit. 

Boyton,  on  the  left,  at  some  distance  from  Bennacot  in  that  parish,  once 
belonged  to  the  Abbey  of  Tavistock,  and  afterwards  to  Launceston  priory. 
Bennacot  is  a  poor  village,  six  miles  from  Launceston,  on  a  part  of  the  road 
which  discovers  nothing  of  interest.  A  little  way  further  on,  upon  the  left  hand, 
are  two  tumuli,  called  Wilsworthy  Barrows ;  and  on  the  right,  not  far  beyond 
these,  a  road  turns  off  to  North  Tamerton,  which  lies  very  near  the  Tamar. 
It  contains  only  three  small  villages,  Venton,  Headon,  and  Alvacot.  There 
is  a  dilapidated  chapel  in  this  parish.  Here,  at  Northcott,  lived  Agnes  Prest, 
the  only  person  who  suffered  death  in  the  diocese  of  Exeter,  under  Bishop 
Turberville,  during  the  reign  of  Queen  Mary.  The  judge  who  condemned 
her,  at  Launceston,  one  Stanford,  afterwards  handed  her  over  to  the  ecclesias- 
tics, who  pronounced  her  incorrigible ;  and  she  was  burned  at  Exeter. 

Whitstone,  about  eleven  miles  from  Launceston,  a  little  way  off  west  of  the 
road,  lies  near  some  woods,  and  contains  only  two  hamlets.  This  parish  is 
remarkable  for  the  numerous  woodcocks  which  visit  it ;  and  has  been  ex- 
empted from  license  by  former  game  acts,  the  cottagers  profiting  considerably 
by  taking  these  birds.  The  church  is  dedicated  to  St.  Nicholas,  and  has  several 
monuments  of  the  Hele,  and  one  of  the  Edgcombe  family.  A  little  to  the 
south-west  of  Whitstone  is  the  parish  of  Week  St.  Mary,  and  the  church- 
to\vn,f  which  in  ancient  records  is  called  a  borough.     It  contains  four  small 

*  De  Foe  lays  the  scene  of  one  of  his  ghost  stories  in  Launceston  or  its  neighbourhood ;  told  with 
so  much  of  the  simplicity  of  truth,  that  it  is  difficult  to  believe  the  tale  is  not,  as  novel  writers  say, 
"  founded  in  fact."  We  thought  it  was  possible,  as  fields  do  not  change  names  for  centuries,  to  find  if 
there  was  one  called  the  "Quartill;"  and  whether  a  clergyman  named  "Ruddle"  had  ever  officiated 
in  Launceston.  No  one  of  the  name  had  been  an  incumbent  there  for  200  years  past,  at  least  in 
St.  Mary's  church.  On  reperusing  the  story,  we  found  the  writer  does  not  make  Launceston  town  the 
scene,  but  the  vicinity. 

t  Wherever  a  cluster  of  houses  stands  near  a  parish  church  in  the  country,  in  Cornwall  it  always 
receives  the  appropriate  name  of  a  church-town ;  as  "  Week  St.  Mary  church-town."    By  this  it  is 


CORNWALL.  21 

villages,  and  has  two  annual  fairs  for  cattle.  There  was  once  a  castle  here,  the 
mound  of  which  still  remains,  and  is  called  Castle  Hill ;  there  are  also  traces 
of  extensive  buildings.  There  is  in  this  parish  a  charity  and  a  grammar 
school,  founded,  in  the  time  of  Henry  VIII.,  by  Thomasina  Perceval,  who  was 
a  native  of  the  place ;  and  who  endowed  it  with  lodgings  for  masters,  and  201. 
of  revenue  paid  annually.  Carew,  in  his  Survey  of  Cornwall,  says  that  many 
of  the  sons  of  the  best  gentlemen  of  Devon  and  Cornwall  were  educated  at 
this  school,  under  one  Cholwell,  an  honest  and  religious  teacher.  It  would 
appear  that  the  school  was  ruined  by  the  statute  of  Edward  VI.  for  the  sup- 
pression of  chanteries;  or,  in  other  words,  for  the  offence  of  having  been 
founded  under  the  ancient  religion  of  the  country.  Most  likely,  in  this  case, 
the  object  of  the  suppression  was  some  private  profit,  for  which  the  act  was 
made  the  cover ;  or  else  foundations  of  the  like  character,  now  in  existence, 
would  have  been  destroyed  with  it.  Thomasina  Bonaventura,  or  Bonaventure, 
became  afterwards  Dame  Perceval ;  her  history  might  do  well  for  a  romance. 
It  is  said  that  her  maiden  name  was  Bonaventure,  and  that  when  a  girl  she 
kept  sheep  upon  the  moor  of  Week  St.  Mary.  A  London  merchant,  who 
happened  to  be  travelling  that  way,  saw  her ;  and  observing  something  about 
her  which  pleased  him,  begged  her  of  her  poor  parents,  and  took  her  to 
London.  The  wife  of  the  merchant  dying,  her  master  was  so  taken  with 
her  comeliness  "  and  her  good  thewes,"  say  the  historians  of  the  day,  that 
he  married  her,  and  left  her  a  rich  widow.  She  married  a  second  husband, 
and  was  a  second  time  left  a  widow.  A  third  time  she  married  a  Sir  John 
Perceval,  who  was  Lord  Mayor  of  London ;  and  outliving  him,  she  retired  to 
her  native  parish,  and  employed  her  fortune  in  useful  purposes.  She  repaired 
highways,  built  bridges,  endowed  maidens,  released  prisoners,  and  clothed  the 
poor.  In  her  will,  which  is  extant,  dated  1512,  it  is  found  that  her  first 
husband's  name  was  Thomas  Bumsby.  She  bequeaths  legacies  to  a  brother ;  and 
makes  a  "cousin"  named  Dinham,  who  married  her  sister's  daughter,  legatee, 
leaving  to  him  the  care  of  her  grammar  school.  To  the  vicar  of  Liskeard  she 
leaves  a  gilt  goblet,  to  remind  him  to  pray  for  her ;  and  twenty  marks  towards 
building  the  church  of  St.  Stephen,  at  Launceston. 

The  road  now  ran  parallel  with  the  Bude  canal  and  the  Tamar,  for  some 
distance ;  and  then  crossing  the  canal  to  the  westward, — a  little  distance  from 
where  a  branch  goes  off  to  Holsworthy  in  Devonshire, — and  passing  over  the 
Tamar  by  an  aqueduct  bridge,  a  mile  and  a  half  further  to  the  north  or  north- 
east, passes  on  to  Kilkhampton  and  Moorwinstow,  while  a  branch  turns  oft 
westward  to  Stratton,  between  Marhamchurch  and  Launcels.  Marhamchurch 
parish  contains  only  a  few  farm-houses,  besides  the  church-town,  and  is  two 
miles  from  Stratton.     Launcels  lies  in  a  sequestered  nook,  with  trees  around 

distinguished  from  a  market-town,  as  Bodmin  or  Truro,  and  villages  equally  large  having  a  similar 
name,  but  no  church.  An  open  space  before  a  house  is  called  a  "  town-  place,"  in  contradistinction  to 
a  back  yard,  or  backlet,  which  is  behind  a  dwelling. 


22  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

it, — a  delightful  seclusion  for  those  weary  of  the  bustle  of  the  world.  It  con- 
tains three  hamlets — Grimscot,  Canorchard,  and  Hesham.  It  was  once  a  cell 
of  Austin  canons,  and  belonged  to  the  diamond  family ;  the  founder  of  which 
was  knighted  at  the  holy  sepulchre ;  and  his  son,  a  justice  here  for  sixty  years, 
was  uncle  and  great-uncle  to  300  persons.  The  monument  of  the  last  of  this 
family  bears  date  1624,  and  yet  stands  in  the  church.  Tre  Yeo  house,  in  this 
parish,  once  belonged  to  the  ancient  family  of  Yeo ;  and  a  small  almshouse 
here  is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  one  of  the  diamond  family.  Launcels 
is  remarkable,  according  to  Borlase,  for  a  breed  of  snakes  diiferent  from  any  in 
the  west  of  the  county,  and  from  the  viper  and  the  slow  worm,  both  of  which 
are  very  common  in  Cornwall ;  it  grows  to  between  four  and  five  feet  long. 
"  The  country  people,"  says  this  writer,  "  have  remarked  two  sorts  of  them ; 
one  has  a  white  garland  round  its  neck,  with  a  sharp  tail  like  the  point  of 
a  rush ;  the  other  a  yellow  garland,  with  a  more  obtuse  tail." 

The  road  into  Stratton  from  Launcels  church-town,  about  a  mile,  is  a  descent. 
The  town  is  small,  but  agreeably  situated  in  a  valley,  or  rather  glen,  within 
the  manor  of  Binamy  and  Stratton,  which  once  belonged  to  the  infamous  chief- 
justice  Tresilian.  It  has  a  market  on  Thursday,  and  three  annual  fairs.  The 
church,  which  like  most  of  the  Cornish  churches  has  a  very  neat  tower,  is 
dedicated  to  St.  Andrew.  There  are  lands  for  the  use  of  the  poor,  pro- 
ducing altogether  113/.  13s.  4c?.  annually.  The  church  has  a  legacy  of 
531.  5s.  in  land;  and  here  is  a  donation  for  educating  twenty-five  poor 
children.  A  monthly  petty  sessions  is  held  in  the  town.  The  charity  estates 
are  managed  by  eight  trustees,  called  the  "  eight  men."  One  Avery,  a  school- 
master, who  died  in  1691,  being  of  "the  eight,"  having  recovered  some  lost 
or  abused  benefaction,  was  honoured  with  a  most  flattering  epitaph,*  still  to 
be  seen  in  the  church.     There  are  several  ancient  monuments  here ;  one  of  a 

*  This  epitaph  is  in  triplets : — 

"  Near  by  this  place  interr'd  does  lie, 
One  of  '  the  eight,'  whose  memory 
"Will  last  and  fragrant  be  to  all  posterity. 
He  did  revive  the  stock  and  store ; 
He  built  the  almshouse  for  the  poor ; 
Manag'd  so  well  was  the  revenue  ne'er  before. 
The  church  he  loved  and  beautified, 
His  highest  glory  and  his  pride ; 
The  sacred  altar  shews  his  private  zeal  beside. 
A  book  he  left,  for  all  to  view 
The  accounts  which  are  both  just  and  true, 
His  own  discharge,  and  a  good  precedent  for  you. 
Be  silent  then  of  him  who's  gone  ; 
Touch  not,  I  mean,  an  imperfection, 
For  he  a  pardon  has  from  the  Almighty  throne. 
Look  to  your  ways,  each  to  his  trust ; 
That  when  you  thus  are  laid  in  dust, 
Your  actions  may  appear  as  righteous  and  as  just !" 


CORNWALL.  23 

knight,  his  name  unknown,  dressed  in  full  armour,  supposed  to  be  intended 
for  Ralph  de  Blanchminster.  John  Arundel,  who  died  1561,  is  also  com- 
memorated by  a  monument.  In  the  register  there  is  an  account  of  the  death 
of  Elizabeth  Cornish,  widow,  who  died  in  her  114th  year,  in  1691,  having 
been  born  in  1578. 

The  principal  inn  in  Stratton  is  the  "  Ash  Tree,"  and  let  into  the  wall  in 
its  front  is  a  tablet  in  old  spelling,  to  the  following  effect :  "  In  this  place  the 
army  of  the  rebels,  under  the  command  of  the  Earl  of  Stamford,  received 
a  signal  overthrow,  by  the  valour  of  Sir  Beville  Granville  and  the  Cornish 
army,  on  Tuesday  the  16th  of  May,  1643."  The  hill  upon  which  this  battle 
was  fought  lies  on  the  north  of  Stratton,  sheltering  the  town  in  that  direction. 
It  is  in  the  parish  of  Poughill,  the  church  of  which  is  only  about  a  mile 
north  of  the  town.  The  hill  is  called  Stamford  Hill,  and  runs  north  and 
south.  A  path  from  the  southward  runs  over  it  longitudinally.  The  en- 
graving shows  the  west 
front  of  the  hill.  The  farm, 

in  order  of  battle.  — 

This  hill  lies  to  the  right  of  the  lane  leading  to  Bude  Haven ;  by  which  last 
route  it  may  be  visited,  though  somewhat  circuitously ;  the  western  ascent 
is  not  very  steep ;  on  the  east  the  ascent  is  steep  and  impracticable.  The 
position,  with  artillery  and  common  resolution  in  its  defence,  appears  very 
strong.  Over  the  western  side  of  the  hill,  the  earthen  mounds  of  the  bat- 
teries may  even  yet  be  seen  from  below,  behind  the  hedge-row,  which  stands 
parallel  with  the  front  of  the  line  occupied  by  the  parliamentary  forces.  It  is 
probable  that  the  Earl  of  Stamford  was  surprised  by  an  attack  on  his  front 
and  flanks  at  the  same  time ;  for  his  rear  could  not  be  assailed,  owing  to  the 
nature  of  the  ground.  The  artillery  seems  to  have  been  placed  in  the  centre  of 
the  line,  disposed  solely  to  resist  any  attack  in  front.  The  ascent  on  the  flanks  is 
not  more  difficult  than  in  front,  the  hill  being  of  the  nature  of  a  ridge,  offering 
little  width  in  the  section;  and  consequently  requiring  but  a  small  body  of 
troops  abreast  either  to  attack  or  defend  them.  Clarendon  says,  in  effect,  that 
the  royal  army  attacked  in  front,  flanks,  and  rear,  four  places  at  once,  which 
could  not  have  been  the  case ;  but  tradition  states  that  two  detached  parties 
attacked  the  flanks  of  the  parliamentary  forces  unexpectedly,  while  it  is  probable 
that  the  front  attack  was  made  in  two  columns.  In  this  way  the  mode  can 
be  comprehended,  which  otherwise  seems,  from  the  nature  of  the  ground  occu- 
pied, to  have  been  impossible.  It  is  likely  that  the  Jacobite  historian  did  not 
trouble  himself  upon  being  verbally  correct,  if,  as  in  many  cases,  he  could 
colour  things  after  his  own  way.     Here  the  result  was  plain  enough,  and  the 


24 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


lapse  of  valour  on  tlie  side  of  the  Earl  of  Stamford  and  his  troops,  but  too 
evident ;  for,  with  4,000  men,  and  thirteen  pieces  of  artillery,  had  a  defence 
commonly  firm  been  made,  an  inferior  force,  if  successful,  must  have  suffered 
great  loss. 

Stratton  is  said  to  have  been  once  celebrated  for  the  garlick  grown  in  the 
vicinity.  The  manor  belongs  to  Lord  Carteret,  together  with  that  of  Kilk- 
hampton.  After  becoming  the  property  of  the  Chief- Justice  Tresilian, 
Stratton  and  Binamy  passed,  in  1483,  to  the  powerful  Cornish  family  of 
Arundel,  avIio  lived  at  Efford,  near  the  town.  The  Granvilles  afterwards 
obtained  possession  of  them  by  purchase. 

Upon  going  some  way  down  the  lane  already  mentioned  as  passing  from 
Stratton  to  Bude  Haven,  a  stile  leads  across  the  fields  on  the  left  hand,  to  a 
path  somewhat  shorter.  It  is  much  incumbered  with  sand  blown  up  from 
the  sea-shore,  between  the  precipitous  headlands  which  lie  north  and  south  of 
the  little  port.  The  sea  is  not  seen  for  a  considerable  part  of  the  way  from 
Stratton  to  Bude,  though  very  near,  the  view  being  obstructed  by  the  height 
of  the  land  on  the  north ;  in  which  direction,  but  a  little  more  east,  the 
church  of  Poughill  is  visible. 

Bude,  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Stratton,  is  a  place  of  recent  origin ;  the 
houses  stand  on  both  sides  of  the  port  and  canal,  being  almost  all  new. 
Those  upon  the  north-east  side,  towards  Stratton,  are  represented  in  this 
view,  taken  from  the  front  of  the  Falcon  Hotel.  A  range  of  buildings  very 
similar  stands  on  the  west.  The  port  opens  upon  the  sea  westwards,  and  is 
itself  much  encumbered  with  sand. 


Some  of  the  headlands  on  this  part  of  the  coast  are  of  a  great  height ;  that 
of  HennaclifF,  north  of  Bude,  is  said  to  be  450  feet.  The  grandeur  of  many 
of  their  cliffs  is  overwhelming.  It  reepjires  a  strong  head  to  approach  their 
verge,  and  look  down  upon  the  waves  breaking  at  their  feet.  Between  two 
of  very  moderate  elevation  there  lies  a  beach,  where  sand  drifts  are  perceptible 
some  way  up  the  hollow ;  this  is  the  haven  of  Bude,  down  which  a  small  stream 
once  ran,  which  is  now  absorbed  in  the  canal  navigation,  already  alluded  to 
when  passing  it  further  up  the  country.  One  sand-hill  is  heaped  across  the 
valley,  sheltering  the  town,  immediately  within  which  stands  the  house  of 
Mr.  Gurney,  the  inventor  of  the  Bude  light,  having  at  one  end  a  sort  of  turret, 


CORNWALL. 


25 


„k 


the  summit  of  which  is  visi- 
ble to  the  seaward,  and  is 
evidently  intended  to  hold 
a  light  to  direct  vessels  off 
the  harbour,  though  we  saw 
no  light  displayed.  The 
sandy  bay  which  forms  the 
entrance  to  the  haven,  must 
be  fearfully  exposed  to  the 
wintry  storms.  Some  way 
within,  a  basin  has  been 
made  for  small  vessels  to 
enter  the  canal.  Those 
which  visit  the  haven  are 
under  a  hundred  tons  bur- 
then; several  of  ninety  tons 
have  been  built  in  the  port- 
Sea-sand  is  carried  from  Bude,  in  barges,  twenty  or  thirty  miles  into  Devon- 
shire and  Cornwall;  coal  and  limestone  are  also  imported  from  Wales,  and 
sent  by  the  same  conveyance;  and  wood,  bark,  and  oats,  are  exported  in 
return.  This  canal  is  carried  for  a  few  miles  from  the  coast  nearly  due  east ; 
it  there  divides, — one  branch  going  to  the  northward,  crossing  the  Tamar, 
entering  the  hundred  of  Black  Torrington,  and  terminating  at  Blagdon  Moor, 
in  Devonshire;  the  other  keeping  nearly  a  parallel  course  with  the  river 
Tamar,  and  terminating  near  Launceston. 

Bude  is  a  bathing-place,  where  retirement  and  quiet  may  be  found  in  a 
degree  seldom  experienced  in  the  anomalous  towns  generally  so  styled.  Yet 
even  Bude  has  its  petty  bustle,  like  its  more  renowned  brethren.  The  inn  was 
full, — no  beds  could  be  had  in  the  house ;  but  they  could  be  procured  out,  was 
the  reply  to  an  application  for  that  first  and  last  of  human  necessities.  Here 
there  was  no  crowded  promenade,  scarcely  a  solitary  wanderer  was  seen  on 
sand  or  cliff.  Fashion  seemed  to  have  introduced  none  of  its  fooleries ;  and  if 
without  them  a  little  thriving  neAV-built  place  of  the  kind  be  not  intolerable 
to  ears  polite, — if  the  absence  of  that  medley  of  polished  lassitude  and  vulgar 
assumption,  which  is  the  prominent  mark  of  such  places  in  general,  can  be 
spared, —  though  "  out  of  the  world,"  Bude  may  have  some  claim  to  attention. 
The  western  breezes  come  in  pure  from  the  Atlantic ;  and  the  pestilent  east 
wind  is  unfelt,  the  port  being  sheltered  by  lofty  hills.  It  must  still  be  ad- 
mitted that  pretension, — the  sin  of  ignorance  and  the  taint  of  English  society, — 
was  budding  here.  This  judgment  we  formed  from  a  sentence  which  dropped 
from  a  waiter  at  the  hotel — a  female,  as  many  of  the  waiters  are  in  Corn- 
Avall.  The  bell  was  rung : — 
"  Did  you  ring,  Sir  ?" 

E 


26 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


"  A  little  water ;  there  is  none  in  the  tea-pot." 

"  Yes,  sir." 

"  Can't  you  bring  in  a  tea-kettle  ?" 

"  The  urn  is  coming,  sir ;  Ave  don't  use  tea-kettles,  like  the  Stratton  people," 
with  a  slight  flourish  of  the  head.  There  was  something  unpromising  in  this 
remark, — tins  incipient  effort  to  be  exclusive, — it  was  not  a  good  omen. 
Stratton  was  an  ancient  town  when  Bude  was  a  sand-bank. 

"  I  shall  be  obliged  for  some  toast,  Mary ;  but  perhaps  the  Stratton  people 
only  eat  toast  ?" 

"  Yes,  Sir,"  replied  Mary,  blushing  as  if  she  felt  the  reproof,  and  going  out  of 
the  room,  after  the  toast. 

"  They  do  that  at  Stratton,"  may  in  future  serve  for  a  gibe  at  any  thing 
done  out  of  the  mode. 

Bude  has  a  neat 
modern  chapel,  erected 
on  the  west  side  of  the 
town,  near  the  prome- 
nade by  the  entrance 
of  the  harbour,  calcu- 
lated to  hold  a  consi- 
derable number  of  per- 
sons. The  annexed  is 
a  representation  of  it. 
The  parish  church  of 
Bude  is  that  of  Strat- 
ton. 

Leaving  the  chapel 
upon  the  left,  and 
going  onwards  to  the 
rocks  at  the  entrance 

of  the  basin,  and  then  ascending  the  cliff  on  the  same  side,  one  of  the  most 
extensive  sea-views  in  England,  from  a  similar  altitude,  comes  at  once 
into  view.  Beneath,  on  the  right-hand,  or  north,  are  the  sands  and  haven ; 
beyond  which,  headland  succeeds  headland  all  the  way  up  to  Hartland  Point, 
in  Devonshire,  precipitous,  rocky,  lofty,  and  tempest-beaten.  Immediately  in 
front,  and  of  a  purple  tint,  upon  a  sea  at  that  moment  intensely  blue,  lay 
Lundy  Island,  about  eight  leagues  distant,  and  of  a  form  remarkably  even. 
It  appeared  to  consist  of  table-land.  On  the  south,  headland  after  headland 
stretched  away  in  magnificent  perspective,  continually  diminishing,  to  that 
which  lying  most  distant  shot  far  out  into  the  sea,  and  was  little  more  than  a 
dark  line  of  purple,  melting  into  the  cerulean  tint  of  air  and  ocean.  The 
nearest  bay  was  the  expanse  appropriately  enough  called  Widemouth  Bay,  a 
concave  continued  as  far  as  Dazard  Point,  which  rises  550  feet  above  the  sea. 


CORNWALL.  27 

This  bay  is  about  six  miles  across ;  the  shore  bordered  with  cliffs  of  dark 
craggy  slate,  time-rent,  and  scooped  or  shivered  into  every  form  by  the  fury 
of  the  tempestuous  waves.  Here  and  there  small  portions  of  sand  appeared 
at  half-tide.  Near  the  Dazard  the  headlands  plunged  down  precipitously  into 
the  ocean  depths,  over  which  they  cast  a  deep  shadow. 

The  slate  strata  here  are  in  many  places  strangely  shaken,  bent,  and  twisted. 
They  are  not  merely  shattered,  but  driven  to  an  upward  direction  in  some 
instances,  as  if  the  plane  surface  they  presented  had  been  bent  at  an  acute  angle 
upwards;  and  in  many  cases,  from  not  being  fractured  under  the  change 
they  have  undergone,  they  give  the  idea  of  their  having  been  sufficiently 
plastic  to  adopt  a  given  figure,  a  character  so  opposite  to  their  shaly  nature. 
The  turf  over  these  cliffs  abounds  in  the  camomile  flower ;  imparting  to  the 
air  a  very  agreeable  fragrance. 

The  slate  rock  upon  this  coast  grows  rather  more  compact  to  the  westward, 
and  passes  into  other  strata  in  some  parts  of  the  county,  a  little  differing 
in  character,  and  sometimes  traversed  by  veins  of  a  different  date.  On  the 
northern  side  of  the  granite  formation,  as  in  the  present  case,  the  dip  of  the 
strata  is  north-east,  or  nearly  so ;  while,  on  the  southern  side  of  the  granite, 
the  dip  is  south-east,  under  an  angle  of  about  70°. 

Returning  to  Stratton,  and  proceeding  northwards  three  miles  and  a  half, 
the  fine  old  church  of  Kilkhampton  rises  in  an  open  country.  This  edifice 
was  erected  many  centuries  ago,  by  one  of  the  Granville  family,  whose  seat  at 
Stow,  pulled  down  in  1720,  had  been  the  residence  of  that  family  ever  since 
the  Conquest.  John  Granville,  son  of  Sir  Beville  Granville,  killed  at  the 
battle  of  Lansdown,  residing  at  Stow,  was  made  Baron  Granville,  of  Kilkhamp- 
ton, in  Cornwall,  Biddeford,  in  Devonshire,  Viscount  Granville  of  Lansdown, 
and  Earl  of  Bath ;  he  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Charles,  whose  son  William 
Henry  was  killed  by  the  accidental  discharge  of  a  pistol.  The  son  of  the 
last,  who  was  named  also  William  Henry,  died  in  1711;  when  the  earldom 
and  inferior  titles  became  extinct.  The  title  of  Marquis  of  Lansdown,  which 
was  conferred  upon  the  grandson  of  Sir  Beville  Granville,  also  became  extinct 
by  the  death  of  George  Granville,  who  died  without  issue,  in  1734.  The  late 
Duke  of  Sutherland,  and  Lord  Foley,  were  connected  with  this  family  by  the 
female  line,  and  became  possessors  of  some  of  the  estates  ;  one  of  the  females 
having  married  a  Gower,  and  another  a  Foley,  of  Stoke,  Herefordshire.  Stow 
was  rebuilt  by  John  Granville,  in  the  reign  of  Charles  II.,  and  was  one  of  the 
finest  residences  of  the  English  nobility.  It  stood  on  the  brink  of  a  well- 
wooded  valley,  itself  wholly  unsheltered.  The  kitchen  offices  were  so  exten- 
sive that  they  made  a  fine  dwelling  house.  This  mansion  was  pulled  to  pieces 
and  sold  in  1720.  The  wainscoting  of  cedar  was  bought  by  Lord  Cobham, 
and  used  at  Stowe,  in  Buckinghamshire,  to  adorn  the  seat  of  his  family  at 
that  place. 


28 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


The  church  of  Kilkhampton,  besides  the  beauty  of  the  architecture,  is  noted 
for  several  monumental  inscriptions,  and  for  being  the  place  where  the  pious 
Hervey  conceived  and  wrote  his  "  Medi- 
tations among  the  Tombs."  It  is  an 
elegant  and  light  structure,  some  parts  of 
which  are  of  higher  antiquity  than  others. 
The  tower  is  a  fine  square  building,  re- 
markably neat  and  simple  in  its  parts 
and  proportions.  At  the  south  entrance 
is  this  door,  ornamented  in  the  Anglo- 
Norman  style,  with  zigzag  cornices. 

The  interior  consists  of  three  aisles, 
the  arches  of  which  are  sustained  by 
pillars  of  slender  but  elegant  propor- 
tion. An  ancient  font  is  exhibited 
here ;  and  the  pulpit  is  well  worthy  the 
inspection  of  the  curious,  for  its  finely 
carved  workmanship.  The  tomb  of  Sir 
Beville  Granville,  who  was  killed  "at  the 
battle  of  Lansdown,  was  erected  in 
1714,  by  George  Granville,  Marquis  of 
Lansdown,  Sir  Beville's  grandchild  by 
his  second  son.  It  is  a  pompous  affair, 
after  the  fashion  of  what  is  called  the  "Augustan  age"  of  England.  "  Gun, 
drum,  trumpet,  blunderbuss,  and  thunder,"  are  copiously  dealt  out  by  the 
sculptor  in  the  way  of  ornamental  troj:>hy.  The  inscription  is  as  follows: — 
"  Here  lies  all  that  was  mortal  of  the  most  noble  and  truly  valiant  Sir  Beville 
Granville,  of  Stow,  in  the  county  of  Cornwall,  Earl  of  Corbill,  and  Lord  of 
Thorigny  and  Granville,  in  Normandy ;  descended  in  a  direct  line  from  Robert, 
second  son  of  the  warlike  Hollo,  first  duke  of  Normandy,  who,  after  having 
obtained  divers  signal  victories  over  the  rebels  in  the  West,  was  at  length  slain, 
with  many  wounds,  at  the  battle  of  Lansdown,  July  5,  1643.  He  married 
the  most  virtuous  lady,  Grace,  daughter  of  Sir  George  Smith,  of  the  county 
of  Devon,  by  whom  he  had  many  sons,  eminent  for  their  loyalty  and  firm 
adherence  to  the  crown  and  church;  and  several  daughters,  remarkable  ex- 
amples of  true  piety.  He  was  indeed  an  excellent  person,  whose  activity, 
interest  and  reputation  were  the  foundation  of  what  had  been  done  in  Corn- 
wall; his  temper  and  affections  so  public,  that  no  accident  which  happened 
could  make  any  impression  upon  him ;  and  his  example  kept  others  from  taking 
any  thing  ill,  or  at  least  seeming  to  do  so.  In  a  word,  a  higher  courage,  and 
a  gentler  disposition,  were  never  married  together  to  make  the  most  cheerful 
and  innocent  conversation. 


CORNWALL.  29 

"  TO  THE  IMMORTAL  MEMORY  OF  HIS  RENOWNED  GRANDFATHER, 

THIS  MONUMENT  WAS  ERECTED, 

BY  THE  RIGHT  HONOURABLE  CEORGE  LORD  LANSDOWN, 

TREASURER  OF  THE  HOUSEHOLD  TO  QUEEN  ANNE, 

AND  ONE  OF  HER  MAJESTY'S  MOST  HONOURABLE  PRIVY  COUNCIL,  &C. 

IN  THE  YEAR  1714. 

"  '  Thus  slain,  thy  valiant  ancestor*  did  lie, 
When  his  one  bark  a  navy  did  defy  ; 
When  now  encompass'd  round,  the  victor  stood, 
And  bathed  his  pinnace  in  his  conquering  blood  ; 
Till  all  his  purple  current  dried  and  spent, 
He  fell,  and  made  the  waves  his  monument' 

Martin  Llewellyn."! 

Kilkliampton  was  anciently  a  market-town,  proved  by  the  quo  warranto 
roll  of  1301.  It  lias  still  three  considerable  cattle  fairs ;  and  is  supposed  to 
have  been  the  property  of  the  Granvilles  from  the  conquest.  That  family 
becoming  extinct,  the  Kilkliampton  estate  passed,  by  the  female  line,  to  Lord 
Carteret. 

Moorwinstow,  six  miles  north  of  Stratton,  is  the  most  northerly  parish  in 
Cornwall,  situated  in  a  bare  country ;  the  coast  scenery  is  particularly  grand. 

*  Sir  Richard  Granville,  who  lost  his  life  off  Terceira,  in  1591  :—  "The  13th  of  September,  the 
said  armada  (Spanish  fleet)  arrived  at  the  island  of  Flores  ;  where  the  Englishmen  with  about  sixteen 
ships  then  lay,  staying  for  the  Spanish  fleet ;  whereof  some,  or  the  most  part,  were  come ;  and  there 
the  English  were  in  good  hope  to  have  taken  them.  But  when  they  perceived  the  king's  army  to  be 
strong,  the  admiral,  being  the  Lord  Thomas  Howard,  commanded  his  fleet  not  to  fall  upon  them,  nor 
any  of  them  once  to  separate  their  ships  from  him,  unless  he  gave  commission  so  to  do.  Notwith- 
standing, the  vice-admiral,  Sir  Richard  Granville,  being  in  the  ship  called  the  Revenge,  went  into  the 
Spanish  fleet,  and  shot  among  them,  doing  them  great  hurt ;  and  thinking  the  rest  of  the  company 
would  have  followed,  which  they  did  not,  but  left  him  there,  and  sailed  away  ;  the  cause  why  could 
not  be  known.  Which  the  Spaniards  perceiving,  with  seven  or  eight  ships  they  boarded  her ;  but 
she  withstood  them  all,  fighting  with  them  at  least  twelve  hours  together,  and  sunk  two  of  them,  one 
being  a  new  double  flie  boat  of  600  tons,  and  admiral  of  the  flie  boats,  the  other  a  Biscain.  But  in 
the  end,  by  reason  of  the  number  that  came  upon  her,  she  was  taken,  but  to  their  great  loss  ;  for  they 
had  lost,  in  fighting  and  by  drowning,  about  400  men;  and  of  the  English  were  slain  100, — Sir  Richard 
Granville  himself  being  wounded  in  his  brain,  whereof  afterwards  he  died.  He  was  carried  into  the 
ship  called  St.  Paul's,  wherein  was  the  admiral  of  the  fleet,  Don  Alonso  de  Bacan  ;  there  his  wounds 
were  dressed  by  the  Spanish  surgeons ;  but  Don  Alonso  himself  would  neither  see  him  nor  speak 
with  him.  All  the  rest  of  the  captains  and  gentlemen  went  to  visit  him,  and  to  comfort  him  in  his 
hard  fortune ;  wondering  at  his  courage  and  stout  heart,  for  he  showed  not  any  sign  of  faintness,  nor 
changing  of  colour  ;  but  feeling  the  hour  of  death  to  approach,  he  spake  these  words  in  Spanish,  and 
said  :  '  Here  die  I,  Richard  Granville,  with  a  joyful  and  quiet  mind,  for  that  I  have  ended  my  life  as 
a  true  soldier  ought  to  do,  that  hath  fought  for  his  country,  queene,  religion,  and  honour ;  whereby 
my  soul  most  joyful  departeth  out  of  this  body,  and  shall  always  leave  behind  it  an  everlasting  fame 
of  a  valiant  and  true  soldier  that  hath  done  his  duty  as  he  was  bound.'  When  he  had  finished  these, 
or  such  other  like  words,  he  gave  up  the  ghost  with  great  and  stout  courage  ;  and  no  man  could  per- 
ceive any  true  sign  of  heaviness  in  him." — Hackluyt's  Voyages. 

f  See  "  Oxford  University  Verses,"  1643.  A  collection  of  verses  on  the  death  of  Sir  Beville,  printed 
in  1643  and  1684,  by  the  University  of  Oxford.  Llewellyn  was  a  poet  and  physician  ;  he  died  at 
High  Wycombe,  in  1682. 


30  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

There  are  no  less  than  seven  small  villages  or  hamlets  in  this  parish ;  in  which 
also  rises  the  river  Tamar.  The  church  of  Moorwinstow  belonged  to  the 
hospital  of  Bridgwater,  in  1290,  and  is  neither  remarkable  for  its  architecture 
nor  its  monuments.  Some  of  the  Copplestone  family,  once  of  note  in  the 
neighbourhood, — extinct  in  1611, — are  buried  within  its  precincts. 

Returning  to  Stratton  and  Bude,  and  from  thence  proceeding  towards 
Boscastle,  about  six  miles  on  the  road,  at  a  little  distance  off,  lies  the  church- 
town  of  Poundstock ;  here  is  also  a  village,  called  Tregoll.  In  the  church 
are  some  monuments  of  the  family  of  Trebarfoot,  extinct  in  1630,  that  had  a 
seat  and  large  possessions  here.  Jacobstow,  about  ten  miles  from  Stratton,  is 
a  parish  remarkable  only  for  containing  the  barton  of  Berry  Court,  a  moated 
site,  the  history  of  which  is  unknown ;  and  for  having  given  birth  to  Digory 
Wheare,  in  1573,  who  published  a  life  of  Camden,  a  treatise  on  reading 
history,  and  several  other  works.  Jacobstow  is  three  miles  from  St.  Gennis ; 
which  last  church-town  is  not  more  than  two  miles  from  the  Dazard  Head,  and 
about  the  same  distance  from  Cambeak,  a  headland  jutting  some  way  into  the 
ocean,  and  forming  the  west  point  of  Tremoutha  Haven.  There  are  four  small 
villages  in  the  parish  of  St.  Gennis.  In  the  church,  is  a  memorial  of  Captain 
William  Beaddon,  who  died  in  1694;  he  was  a  member  of  the  parliament  of 
1658.     His  epitaph  makes  him  both  gOAvn  and  swordsman. 

The  distance  from  Stratton  to  Boscastle  is  seventeen  miles.  The  coast  con- 
sists of  dreary  and  rugged  promontories,  Avith  hollows  and  sandy  beaches 
between.  High  Cliff,  within  four  miles  of  Boscastle,  rises  785  feet.  The 
scream  of  the  sea-bird,  and  roaring  of  the  waves,  are  the  only  sounds  heard. 
Here  the  blue  expanse  of  ocean  and  sky,  spread  out  above  and  beneath,  pre- 
sented a  picture, — 

boundless,  endless,  and  sublime, 

The  image  of  eternity ! 

About  five  miles  from  Boscastle  the  track  lies  over  a  desolate  heath,  called 
Tresparrot  Down,  850  feet  above  the  sea;  the  whole  way  to  Boscastle  being 
a  rapid  descent.  The  elevation  makes  the  rough  land  below  appear  like  a  level 
surface.  Promontory  after  promontory  stretches  away  to  the  west  of  Tintagel 
Head,  seemingly  of  no  elevation  at  all.  The  prospect  is  one  of  naked,  wild, 
solitary  grandeur.  At  length  Ave  approach  a  deep  ravine,  over  the  south- 
western brow  of  Avhich  appears  the  low  tower  of  a  pigmy  church.  Upon  this 
part  of  the  road  we  noticed  several  shaggy  looking  goats,  the  appearance  of 
Avhich,  Avith  their  long  coats  and  grave  beards,  hanging  upon  the  ledges  of  the 
precipices,  added  much  to  the  picturesque  character  of  the  scenery. 

Our  descent  continued  at  a  speed  none  but  a  Cornish  horse  and  driver  Avould 
have  dared  over  such  a  road.  Near  the  bottom  were  some  houses ;  and  the  roar 
of  the  sea  Avas  heard  in  a  small  creek  upon  the  right  hand,  betAveen  precipitous 
rocks.  Here  we  came  upon  an  elbow  in  the  gorge,  passing  Avhich  the  road  rose 
again  rapidly.     On  one  side,  a  stream  turned  a  mill  in  a  narroAV  cranny,  just 


CORNWALL. 


31 


leaving  room  enough  for  the  carriage,  which  wound  toilsomely  up  hill.  A 
road,  excavated  in  the  slate  rock,  diverged  to  the  right  hand,  some  way 
towards  the  top.  The  ravine  now  widened  considerably ;  in  front  appeared  a 
mound,  upon  which  once  stood  the  keep  of  a  castle :  it  was  crowned  with  a 
few  mean  cottages,  while  above  these,  enclosed  in  the  expanding  mouth  of  the 
ravine,  rose  the  little  town  of  Boscastle,  or,  more  correctly,  Bottreaux  castle, 
the  lords  of  which  had  once  their  baronial  dwelling  here.  "  The  Lord 
Bottreaux,"  says  an  old  writer  of  the  time  of  Henry  VIIL*  "  was  lord  of  this 
town,  a  man  of  old  Cornish  lineage."  The  same  writer  then  observes,  "  that 
in  his  time  the  castle  was  of  small  reputation,"  and  as  it  was  unworthy  the 
name  of  a  castle,  the  people  called  it  "  the  Court :"  more  unworthy  at  pre- 
sent, there  is  no  other  relic  of  the  race  than  this  neglected  grassy  mound,  likely 
enough  to  pass  unnoticed  by  a  stranger. 

The  site  of  Boscastle  is  romantic  beyond  all  idea,  There  is  an  inn,  called 
"  The  Robin,"  homely,  but  clean  and  neat,  and,  as  everywhere  in  Cornwall, 
right  hospitable  to  the  stranger.  No  situation  can  more  forcibly  impress  the 
mind  with  its  absence  from  what  is  called  "  the  world,"  in  all  shapes.  Every- 
thing seemed  in  repose ;  even  names  bore  relation  to  it,  for  over  the  first  door 
we  saw  was,  "  Francis  Sleep,  hosier"  in  large  letters.  There  is  an  utter  desti- 
tution of  trees,  except  fruit  trees,  in  the  gardens,  which  exhibited  a  good  deal 
of  produce.  With  wood  to  shadow  the  gorges  of  the  hills,  no  spot  in  the 
world  could  be  more  calculated  for  philosophic  retirement. 

A  road  has  been  already  mentioned  as  turning  off  to  the  right  hand,  some  way 
up  the  ascent  of  the  hill  towards  the  town.  Descending  the  crooked  but  only 
street  in  the  place,  and 

taking  this  road,  which  .^^d^fi 

ascends  but  for  a  little  _ja|| 

distance,  a  small  spot 
of  plain  ground  opens, 
upon  which  stands  a 
low  and  humble,  but 
strongly  built  church. 
This  is  the  church  of 
Forrabury,  or  Bot- 
treaux, with  its  silent 
tower,  from  whence  the 
merry  peal  has  never 
been  heard  to  break 
upon  mortal  ear. 

There  is  a  story  told  upon  this  want  of  accustomed  parochial  harmony, 
which  many  of  the  people  sincerely  credit,  and  always  connect  with  any 
information  about  the  church  of  Bottreaux,  with  which  they  entertain  the 

*  Leland. 


32  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

stranger.  After  Bottreaux  church  was  erected,  or  more  correctly  Forrabury, 
for  Bottreaux  town,  small  as  it  is,  belongs  to  two  parishes,  it  was  considered 
that  no  country  church  could  be  complete  and  orthodox  without  an  harmonious 
peal  of  bells.  Those  of  Tintagel  were  particularly  musical,  and  within  hearing 
when  the  wind  blew  towards  Bottreaux ;  but  this  was  not  enough.  The  bells, 
which  some  said  had  tolled  for  king  Arthur  as  he  was  borne  a  corpse  from  the 
field  of  blood  near  Camelford  to  Tintagel,  and  again  as  he  was  borne  away 
from  his  native  castle  to  be  interred  at  Glastonbury,  were  not  the  bells  of 
Bottreaux,  but  altogether  aliens  to  that  place ;  so  they  determined  to  have  as 
choice  a  peal  as  money  would  procure.  The  Lord  de  Bottreaux,  who  had 
vast  possessions,  was  then  residing  in  the  castle,  and  subscribed  largely 
towards  the  purchase  for  the  benefit  of  his  soul, — lords  being,  in  those  good  old 
days,  as  careful  of  their  souls  as  persons  less  loftily  born.  An  order  was 
sent  to  London  for  the  bells,  to  a  founder  of  great  reputation.  There  they 
were  made,  and  despatched  by  sea,  having  been  previously  blessed,  it  is  pre- 
sumed from  the  sequel,  by  some  most  exemplary  dignitary  of  the  hierarchy. 
The  peal,  thus  shipped,  had  a  prosperous  voyage  until  the  vessel  came  into  the 
bay  opposite  Bottreaux,  when  Tintagel  bells  were  "  swinging  slow  with 
sullen  roar,"  and  the  sound  boomed  along  the  waves  to  the  ear  of  the  pilot, 
who  was  steering  the  ship  at  the  time.  The  pilot  was  pleased  with  the  sound 
of  his  native  bells,  and  thanked  God  that  evening  he  should  be  on  shore. 
"  Thank  the  ship,  you  fool,"  said  the  captain,  "  thank  God  upon  shore." 
"  Nay,"  said  the  pilot,  "  we  should  thank  God  everywhere." 
"  Go  to ;  thou  art  a  fool,  I  tell  thee,"  said  the  captain ;  "  thank  thyself,  and 
a  steady  helm." 

This  strain  was  continued  for  some  time ;  the  captain  jeered  the  pilot,  and 
the  pilot  soberly  maintained  that  it  Avas  the  duty  of  all  to  thank  God  on  sea  or 
land,  much  more  as  the  sea  was  a  place  of  danger.  The  captain  at  last  waxed 
choleric,  and  swore  most  sinful  oaths  and  blasphemies,  as  sea-captains  were 
wont  to  do  in  those  times.  The  ship,  in  the  meanwhile,  was  in  sight  of  the 
tower  that  only  lacked  the  bells  to  be  a  fair  rival  of  Tintagel.  The  people 
were  on  the  cliffs,  and  above  all  upon  that  named  Willapark  Point,  overlooking 
the  rocky  gulph  called  the  Black  Pit,  in  expectation  of  soon  receiving  the 
precious  freight.  But  the  captain  was  not  to  go  unpunished.  The  wind  rose 
rapidly,  and  blew  furiously  from  the  west ;  nearer  and  nearer  drove  the  vessel 
into  the  bay,  and,  when  not  a  mile  from  the  church  tower,  which  was  full 
in  view,  a  monstrous  sea  struck  her,  she  gave  a  lurch  to  port,  and  went  down, 
bells  and  all.  The  pilot,  who  could  swim,  was  taken  up  by  a  daring  fisherman, 
who  ventured  to  his  assistance.  The  storm  raged  with  tremendous  fury,  and 
the  clang  of  the  bells  was  distinctly  heard,  dull,  as  if  muffled  by  the  waves, 
through  which  the  sound  rose  out  of  the  ocean  depths  in  solemn  tollings,  at 
intervals,  clearly  distinguishable  from  the  roar  of  the  winds  and  waves.  The 
sound  continues  still  to  be  heard  during  the  frequent  tempests  that  assail  that 


■ 


I 


.     . 


CORNWALL.  33 

part  of  the  coast,  as  it  was  heard  at  the  hour  when  Bottreaux  bells  were 
engulphed  beneath  the  ocean.  The  tower  to  this  day  has  no  bells,  and  more 
useful  to  the  living  is  its  silence,  with  the  recollection  of  the  cause,  than  the 
most  harmonious  chimes. 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Hawker,  of  North  Tamerton,  has  noticed  this  story  in  his 
verses,  entitled  "  The  Silent  Tower  of  Bottreaux."  "We  take  the  liberty  of 
inserting  a  few  stanzas. 

"  The  ship  rode  down,  with  courses  free, 
The  daughter  of  a  distant  sea, 
Her  sheet  was  loose,  her  anchor  stored, 
The  merry  Bottreaux  bells  on  board — 

'  Come  to  thy  God  in  time  !' 

Rung  out  Tintagel's  chime — 

'  Youth,  manhood,  old  age,  past, 

Come  to  thy  God  at  last !' 

"  The  Pilot  heard  his  native  bells, 
Hang  on  the  breeze  in  fitful  swells ; 
'  Thank  God  !'  with  reverent  brow  he  cried, 
'  We  make  the  shore  with  evening's  tide.' 

'  Come  to  thy  God  in  time  !' 

It  was  his  marriage  chime  ; 

Youth,  manhood,  old  age,  past, 

His  bell  must  ring  at  last ! 

"  '  Thank  God,  thou  whining  knave,  on  land, 
But  thank  at  sea  the  steersman's  hand,' — 
The  Captain's  voice  above  the  gale — ■ 
'  Thank  the  good  ship  and  ready  sail.' 

'  Come  to  thy  God  in  time !' 

Sad  grew  the  boding  chime  ; 

'  Come  to  thy  God  at  last !' 

Boom'd  heavy  on  the  blast. 

"  Uprose  that  sea,  as  if  it  heard 
The  mighty  Master's  signal  word  ; 
What  thrills  the  Captain's  whitening  lip, 
The  death-groans  of  his  sinking  ship. 

'  Come  to  thy  God  in  time  !' 

Swung  deep  the  funeral  chime — 

'  Grace !  Mercy  !  Kindness  past, 

Come  to  thy  God  at  last !' 

"  Still  when  the  storm  of  Bottreaux's  waves 
Is  waking  in  his  weedy  caves, 
Those  bells,  that  sullen  surges  hide, 
Peal  their  deep  tones  beneath  the  tide  ; — 

'  Come  to  thy  God  in  time  !' 

Thus  saith  the  ocean  chime  ; 

Storm,  billow,  whirlwind,  past, 

'  Come  to  thy  God  at  last !'  " 

Part  of  the  town  of  Boscastle  is  in  Forrabury  parish;  the  other  part  is  in 
Minster.     There  arc  only  two   or  three   cottages  in  Forrabury,  besides  the 

F 


34  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

houses  of  Boscastle.     The  parish  constitutes  a  rectory  with  that  of  Minster. 
Boscastle  is  five  miles  from  Camelford,  and  three  from  Bossinny,  or  Tintagel. 

Bottreaux  church,*  it  is  seen,  stands  very  near  the  sea,  or  rather  the  formid- 
able cliffs  which  bound  its  wild  and  raging  waters.  Just  beyond  the  inclosure 
which  limits  the  petty  domain  wherein  the  weary  of  this  romantic  little  town 
take  their  final  rest,  there  is  a  small  field;  at  the  time  of  our  visit  radiant  with 
the  golden  hues  of  harvest,  even  to  the  verge  of  the  cliffs.  On  the  left, 
circling  inwards,  there  is  a  gloomy  abyss,  at  the  bottom  of  which  the  waves 
break  into  foam  upon  black  and  jagged  slate  rocks.  It  is  very  appropriately 
called  the  Black  Pit ;  like — 

"  Dread  Malgebolge,  all  engulph'd  in  rock, 
Of  hue  ferruginous "f 

Upon  the  right  of  this  fearful-looking  place  the  land  rises  rapidly,  and  pushes 
out  some  distance  into  the  sea,  terminating  in  a  perpendicular  descent,  and 
a  precipice  so  much  loftier  than  the  cliffs  of  the  Black  Pit  as  the  ascent  is 
higher.  The  summit  bears  the  remnant  of  an  old  tower.  This  is  called  Willa- 
park  Point,  and  the  view  from  its  shattered  Avails  is  truly  sublime,  but  not 
unaccompanied  with  fearfulness  when  the  dizzy  precipice,  but  a  few  paces  off, 
meets  the  sight,  and  perpe- 
tually draws  it  away  from 
surveying  the  surrounding 
scene,  by  the  involuntary  ap- 
prehension of  danger.  The 
choughs,|  with  their  vermil- 
lion  legs,  beaks,  and  jetty 
feathers,  fly  sportively  along 
the  face  of  the  rocks,  scarce 
"  as  gross  as  beetles." 

The  line  of  sea  terminates  northwards  in  headlands  succeeding  each  other 
in  various  altitudes  and  forms.  They  are  all  dark,  rugged,  and  precipitous. 
Beyond  the  Black  Pit,  after  the  curve  in  the  shore  made  by  that  gloomy 
ocean  inlet,  in  which  the  waves  continually  boil  and  fret,  a  rocky  point  goes 
down  to  the  sea  level,  the  sides  nearly  perpendicular,  and  here,  where  it  may 
almost  be  said  that — 

" The  dizzy  eye 


Aches  with  contraction,  and  grows  dim  in  vain, 
To  search  the  unsounded  bottom," 


*  This  epitaph  occurs  here  to  the  memory  of  the  late  Rev.  Mr.  Cotton  and  his  wife : — 
"  Forty-nine  years  they  lived  man  and  wife, 
And  what's  more  rare,  so  many  without  strife  ; 
She  first  departing,  he  a  few  weeks  tried 
To  live  without  her,  could  not,  and  he  died." 
t  Dante.  J  The  Cornish  daw. 


CORNWALL. 


35 


the  green  hue  of  the  deep  water  continuing  close  beneath, — here,  in  a  dan- 
gerous and  fearful  place,  is  a  slate-quarry,  the  stone  from  which  has  to  be 
hauled  up  to  the  summit  of 
the  hill.  Beyond  this,  oppo- 
site two  headlands  of  great 
elevation  and  steepness,  a 
couple  of  solitary  rocks  rise 
out  of  the  sea,  contributing 
to  the  grandeur  of  the  scene, 
and  breaking  the  waves  as 
they  roll  in  upon  the  main 
land.  Just  over  one  of  these 
headlands  appears  the  soli- 
tary tower  of  Bossinny,  or 
Tintagel  Church. 

The  distance  from  Boscastle  to  Tintagel  is  three  miles,  the  road  unrelieved 
by  one  interesting  object  upon  the  wayside.  Inhospitable  and  barren,  even 
the  heath  seems  poorer  than  in  other  districts  of  the  county.  There  is  a 
hollow  in  the  hills,  or  more  properly  a  deep  gully,  down  which  flows  a  name- 
less stream  of  water,  not  far  from  the  public  road.  In  a  fissure  between  the 
rocks  this  stream  falls  in  a  cascade,  called  St.  Nighton's  Keive  by  the  people 

of  the  vicinity.  The  place  being  out  of  the 
path  of  the  prevalent  winds,  brushwood  and 
furze  spring  up  around  sufficiently  to  improve 
the  appearance  of  the  fall ;  and  on  the  rock, 
just  where  the  water  pitches  down,  there  are 
four  walls  covered  with  vegetation,  the  roofless 
remnant  of  the  abode  of  some  hermit  in  times 
gone  by,  who  resided  there  to  pray  for  the 
souls  of  shipwrecked  mariners,  at  least  this  is 
the  supposition. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  neighbourhood  have 
another  tale  about  this  place,  which,  if  there  be 
truth  in  the  tradition,  would  only  go  to  prove 
that  the  building  had  received  other  tenants 
after  its  first  occupant  was  no  more.  Two 
ancient  ladies,  of  whom  nothing  was  known, 
and  whose  accent  showed  them  to  be  strangers 
to  Cornwall,  made  their  appearance  on  a  sudden 
at  the  fall,  and  took  up  their  abode  in  the  building.  Their  dress  showed  that  they 
were  persons  of  good  quality.  They  sought  seclusion  only,  and  took  nothing 
but  food  from  those  who  inhabited  the  neighbourhood,  ever  seeming  anxious 
to  attract  as  little  notice  as  possible.     There  they  lived  a  good  while,  until  the 


36  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

hand  of  death  fell  upon  one  of  them,  when  both  were  advanced  in  years ;  but 
even  then  no  elucidation  of  the  mystery  of  their  identity  took  place,  their 
history  remaining  a  secret  as  before.  The  survivor  was  observed  to  pass  her 
time  in  weeping.  She  grew  thin  and  gaunt  from  the  indulgence  of  her  sor- 
row, which  remained  without  mitigation  until  she  was  reduced  to  a  skeleton. 
At  last  she  was  found  dead,  her  grey  head  resting  upon  her  bony  and  shrunken 
hand,  stretched  upon  the  place  where  she  had  been  seen  to  sit  and  waste  away 
her  hours  in  sorrow.  Who  the  strangers  were  remains  still  covered  with  the 
same  impenetrable  secrecy.  Nothing  was  found  Avhich  gave  a  clue  to  their 
previous  station  in  life,  and  they  passed  away  from  existence  nameless  as  the 
stream  which  falls  beneath  their  secluded  abode. 

The  sea  is  on  the  right  hand  the  whole  distance  to  Tintagel.  At  one  time, 
seen  over  a  steep  headland  brow,  it  comes  full  upon  the  view ;  at  another, 
through  the  hill  hollows.  We  never  lose  the  line  "  where  its  blue  glories  melt 
into  the  pole,"  the  view  amply  repaying  the  barrenness  of  the  land  prospect. 
Tintagel  is  properly  the  name  of  the  precipitous  and  rugged  headland  upon 
which  the  ruins  of  the  castle  stand  which  is  said  to  have  given  birth  to 
King  Arthur.  The  town  is  a  mile  distant,  called  also  Bossinny,  or  Trevena, 
to  which  vulgar  usage  has  added  that  of  Tintagel,  after  the  castle.  It  is  now 
disfranchised,  but,  before  the  Reform  Act,  returned  two  members  to  parlia- 
ment, elected  by  only  five  or  six  persons.  Leland  calls  it  Bossinny,  and  says 
that,  in  his  time,  (that  of  Henry  VIII.),  though  only  a  fishing-town,  it  had 
great  privileges,  and  that  there  were  the  ruins  of  a  great  number  of  houses 
about  it ;  clearly  indicating  its  former  consequence.  Bossinny  is  now  a  very 
poor  and  miserable  place,  consisting  of  half  a  dozen  houses,  scarcely  worthy 
the  name  of  a  hamlet.  The  entire  parish  contains  but  1,000  inhabitants.  The 
church  formerly  belonged  to  the  abbey  of  Fontevrault,  in  Normandy,  and  was 
afterwards  given  by  Edward  IV.  to  the  collegiate  church  at  Windsor,  the 
dean  and  chapter  of  which  attach  all  the  great  tithes,  and  are  patrons  of 
the  living.  It  is  a  vicarage,  valued  in  the  Liber  Regis  at  8/.  lis.  2d.  There 
is  a  charity-school  here,  the  master  of  which  has  10^.  per  annum  from  the  cor- 
poration. Whatever  might  have  been  the  consequence  or  extent  of  Bossinny 
in  times  past  human  memory,  it  is  now  solely  visited  for  its  relation  to  the 
castle,  the  reputed  birth-place  of  King  Arthur.  Some  have  cast  doubts  upon 
the  existence  of  such  a  personage  at  all,  but  the  Chancellor  Bacon's  opinion 
upon  the  point  is  entitled  to  some  weight,  when  he  says  there  is  truth  enough 
in  his  history  to  make  him  famous,  omitting  what  is  fabulous.  Upon  the 
other  side,  it  niay  be  observed  that  Milton  does  not  seem  to  have  strong  faith 
in  the  existence  of  Arthur,  judging  from  his  history.  But  in  the  traditions  of 
this  part  of  the  country  King  Arthur  is  still  Fresh  in  renown.  Going  from 
Bossinny  towards  the  sea,  upon  a  bold  precipitous  projection  on  the  main  land, 
not  less  than  200  feet  high,  the  first  ruins  of  this  far-famed  fortress  are  seen, 
and  across  a  chasm  of  fearful  depth  a  second  portion,  as  if  the  headland  had 


CORNWALL.  37 

been  rent  asunder  by  an  earthquake.  Both  were  once  connected  by  a  draw- 
bridge, which  has  long  ago  disappeared.  The  ruins  on  the  main  land  consist 
of  fragments  of  slate  walls,  some  portion  of  the  termination  of  which  must 
have  fallen  into  the  sea.  There  are  not  enough  left  to  do  more  than  enable 
the  observer  to  guess  at  their  connexion  and  object.  The  walls,  nowhere 
entire,  on  the  land  side  were  battlemented  and  loopholed  for  the  discharge  of 
arrows,  and  reach  to  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  all  being  subsidiary  to  the 
citadel  upon  the  island.  This  last  can  only  be  visited  by  a  very  perilous 
descent,  and  then  an  ascent  up  the  cliff  from  below  equally  dangerous,  for  a 
single  slide  of  the  foot  is  certain  destruction.  The  wind  blew  strong,  and  we 
did  not  think  it  prudent  to  venture  upon  the  attempt  of  scaling  the  island ; 
though  the  descent  from  the  main  land  was  by  no  means  a  difficult  task  with 
a  steady  head  and  disregard  of  the  dashing  waves  beneath.  The  ruins  on  the 
island  consist  only  of  the  remains  of  broken  and  shattered  walls.*  This  part 
of  the  scene  is  exhibited  in  the  engraving  from  the  faithful  pencil  of  Mr.  Cres- 
wick,  whose  taste  in  art  is  only  equalled  by  his  just  application  of  its  principles. 
The  sea  has  hollowed  out  a  cavern  under,  in  which  the  waves  thunder,  and 
rage,  and  boil.  Such  is  all  that  remains  of  the  reputed  birth-place  of  him 
whose  exploits  and  good  sword,  "Excaliber,"f  have  been  "said  and  sung," 
from  age  to  age.  The  Troubadours,  the  bards  of  Italy,  and  the  minstrels  of  the 
North,  have  alike  done  honour  to  the  name  of  the  hero  whose  existence  some 
are  so  contumacious  to  the  pleasure  of  fiction,  if  not  of  truth,  as  to  doubt. 

It  is  difficult  at  first,  it  must  be  acknowledged,  looking  at  the  ruinous  state  of 
Tintagel  castle,  the  dark  slate  rocks  upon  which  they  stand,  and  the  sterility 
of  the  surrounding  country,  to  reconcile  the  "antique  pomp  and  pageantry"  of  the 
hero  and  his  knights  of  the  round  table  with  such  a  scene.  Imagination,  prompt 
in  resources  for  all  difficulties,  at  once  calls  in  the  agency  of  time,  operating  every 
where,  changing  fertile  territories  into  barren  lands,  and  rendering  the  barren 
fertile ;  strewing  earth  with  the  wrecks  of  castles,  as  well  as  of  empires,  and 
reconciling  past  probability  with  existing  doubt.  The  magic  of  the  imagina- 
tion thus  recalls  the  actions  of  the  potent  hero  of  the  West,  the  magnificence  of 
his  court,  the  valour  of  his  knights,  the  visions  of  his  glory,  and  the  triumphs 
of  his  conquests  ;   "  fierce  war  and  faithful  love ;"   where  desolation  holds  an 

*  Leland,  temp.  Hen.  VIII.,  says,  "  This  castle  hath  been  a  marvellous  strong  and  notable  fortress, 
and  almost  situ  loci  inexpregnabile,  especially  for  the  dungeon  that  is  on  a  high  and  terrible  crag, 
environed  with  the  sea,  but  having  a  drawbridge  from  the  residue  of  the  castle  unto  it.  There  is  yet 
a  chapel  standing  within  this  dungeon  of  St.  Ulette,  alias  St.  Uliane.  Sheep  now  feed  within  the 
dungeon.  The  residue  of  the  buildings  of  the  castle  be  sore  weatherbeaten  and  in  ruin,  but  it  hath 
been  a  large  thing."  He  also  adds,  "  The  castle  had  be  liked  three  wards,  whereof  two  be  worn 
away  by  the  gulfing  in  of  the  sea;  without  the  isle  remaineth  only  a  gate-house,  a  wall,  and  a  fause 
braye,  digged  and  walled.  In  the  isle  remain  old  walls,  and  in  part  of  the  same,  the  ground  being 
lower,  remaineth  a  wall  embattled,  and  men  alive  saw  therein  a  postern-door  of  iron.  There  is  in  the 
isle  a  pretty  chapel,  with  a  tomb  on  the  left  side." 

t  Arthur's  sword,  presented  him  by  a  fair  hand  which  came  up  above  the  waters  of  a  lake ;  a 
charmed  weapon,  like  that  of  the  archangel  Michael,  able  to  hew  down  "  squadrons  at  once." 


38  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENUURY. 

undivided  sovereignty,  and  black  rocks,  shivered  by  tempests ;  treeless,  and 
almost  herbless,  shores,  and  cliffs  of  fearful  grandeur,  are  all  that  remain.  Yet 
even  here  fancy  nurses  her  day  dreams  of  what  has  been  in  story,  and  further 
depicts  the  British  hero  borne  back  from  Slaughter  Bridge,  mortally  wounded, 
the  tears  of  beauty  unavailingly  shed  for  him,  the  mournful  countenances  of 
Iris  warriors,  and  the  last  moment  when  he  rendered  up  his  soul  to  God. 

Portyssik,  vulgarly  called  Port  Isaac,  distant  from  Bossinny  about  six 
miles,  is  a  fishing-town,  and  little  haven,  much  used  for  shipping  slate  from  the 
celebrated  and  profound  quarries  of  De  la  Bole,  or  Dennyball ;  it  has  a  small 
pier,  and  shelter  sufficient  for  the  class  of  vessels  that  make  use  of  it,  which 
may  run  aground  upon  the  sand.  This  slate  is  the  best  in  the  three  king- 
doms, absorbing  less  water  than  any  other ;  but  it  lies  inconveniently  for 
shipment,  and  is  worked  to  a  great  depth.  A  powerful  steam-engine  is 
attached  to  the  quarry,  which  is  situated  in  the  parish  of  St.  Teath.  The 
excavation  whence  this  superior  slate  is  obtained  is  between  forty  and  fifty 
fathoms  deep,  upwards  of  a  hundred  yards  wide,  and  three  hundred  long ;  a 
startling  and  enormous  excavation  in  the  solid  stone.  The  slate  nearest  the 
surface,  for  the  first  fifty  feet,  is  of  an  infei'ior  kind ;  that  which  succeeds 
is  found  to  improve  in  quality,  while  that  at  150  feet  is  discovered  to  be  the 
best,  improving  in  the  descent  to  the  depth  of  240  feet.  It  is  of  a  light-blue 
colour,  perhaps  greyish-blue  is  more  appropriate,  and  its  grain  is  exceedingly 
close  and  hard,  so  that  it  will  ring,  when  struck,  like  metal.  The  stone  is 
divided  by  wedges  into  lamina?  of  a  manageable  size,  and  again  subdivided, 
when  separated  from  the  rock,  into  the  thinness  required  for  roofing  or  other 
purposes.  The  appearance  of  this  vast  excavation,  the  labourers  at  their  task 
so  far  in  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  the  working  of  the  steam-engine  above,  and 
the  hue  of  the  rock,  altogether  present  a  novel  appearance,  in  no  way  resembling 
a  mine,  nor  the  customary  idea  of  a  stone-quarry.  The  stupendous  depth,  and 
dark  colours  of  the  stone,  from  the  wet  streaming  upon  it  in  many  places,  the 
vast  surface  laid  bare,  the  magnitude  of  the  excavation  which  has  been  opened 
and  Avorked  for  140  years,  and  the  sound  of  the  blasting  from  below,  are 
very  impressive. 

There  is  no  place  of  consequence  on  this  coast  between  Port  Isaac  and 
the  projecting  rugged  headland,  with  its  accompanying  islands,  called  Pentire 
Point,  and  the  entrance  of  the  river  Camel,  except  a  little  fishing  cove,  called 
Portquin,  in  the  parish  of  St.  Endellion,  near  which  port  are  some  old  anti- 
mony mines.  This  parish,  comprised  between  the  Camel  river  and  the  sea, 
to  the  west  of  Tintagel,  is  that  in  which  Port  Isaac,  or  Portissik,  is  situated, 
and  it  has  a  charity  school,  supported  by  voluntary  contributions.  St.  Minver, 
four  miles  from  Wadebridge,  in  what  are  called  the  highlands,  contains  some 
monuments  of  the  Opie  family,  and  has  a  handsome  modern  window  of  painted 
glass.  To  this  church,  a  Mr.  Randall  left  ten  shillings  a  year,  for  a  funeral 
sermon  for  a  thousand  years,  to  be  preached  on  the  27th  of  December,  and 


CORNWALL.  39 

twenty  shillings  for  the  poor  of  the  parish,  per  annum.  Money  for  a  thousand 
funeral  sermons  like  money  for  a  thousand  masses,  is  an  odd  bequest,  left 
no  doubt  out  of  the  vanity  of  keeping  the  Randall  name  alive  for  ten 
centuries.  Here  are  two  chapels ;  one  of  St.  Enodock  nearly  overwhelmed 
in  the  sands.  To  enjoy  the  revenue  of  this  chapel,  the  story  goes,  that,  at  one 
time,  the  roof  alone  being  kept  clear  of  the  rolling  sea-sand,  the  parson  used 
to  descend  to  his  duties  by  a  solitary  skylight.  The  chapel  of  St.  Michael 
is  on  the  banks  of  the  Camel,  and  is  also  called  Porthilly  Church ;  the  village 
attached  to  it  has  long  been  overwhelmed  by  the  sands.  There  were  other 
chapels  in  this  parish  ;  one,  on  the  manor  of  Penmean,  had  a  burying  ground, 
which,  in  1778,  from  the  shifting  of  the  sands,  was  exposed  to  view,  and 
human  bones,  with  rings,  coins,  and  ornaments,  from  the  time  of  Henry  I.  to 
Elizabeth,  were  found.  There  was  also  a  cemetery  of  the  Quaker  sect  here, 
and  the  author  of  "  A  Narrative  of  the  Life  and  Sufferings  of  John  Peters,  a 
Quaker,"  published  in  1709,  lies  buried  in  it.  Peters  was  steward  to  the  Carew 
family.  No  Quaker  now  resides  in  the  parish.  A  creek  from  the  Camel  is 
navigable  for  barges  at  high  water  in  this  parish,  as  high  as  Amble  Bridge, 
St.  Kew. 

We  retraced  our  steps  to  Boscastle,  although  the  shorter  way  to  Camelford 
was  more  direct.  There  was  something  so  romantic  about  Bottreaux  Castle, 
that  it  was  impossible  to  resist  the  desire  to  see  this  secluded  little  town 
again,  before  taking  leave  of  that  part  of  the  county.  Passing  by  Tintagel, 
musing  on  human  vicissitude  and  the  history  of  Arthur,  which,  whether  true 
or  false,  has  beguiled  the  weary  hours  of  countless  numbers,  by  that  irresistible 
influence  which  romantic  fiction  possesses  over  the  human  heart,  not  to  men- 
tion the  philosophical  view  of  the  subject,  and  feeling  the  truth  of  the  lines  in 
all  their  force — 

"  There  is  a  joy  in  every  spot 
Made  known  in  days  of  old, 
New  to  the  feet,  although  the  tale 
A  hundred  times  be  told," — 

we  reached  Boscastle  time  enough,  we  apprehended,  to  visit  the  unmusical 
church  during  divine  service.  We  were  mistaken.  The  service  was  over,  and 
along  the  paths  beyond  the  church-yard,  within  a  few  paces  of  the  Black  Pit 
precipices,  already  mentioned,  some  of  the  inhabitants  of  that  remote  place  were 
taking  a  sober  walk  amid  "  their  homely  joys  and  destiny  obscure  ;"  many,  it 
was  probable,  had  never  been  half  a  dozen  miles  from  Boscastle  in  their  lives. 
The  women  were  good  looking,  and  possessed  that  fresh  and  healthful  com- 
plexion and  that  rondeur  of  person,  without  bulkiness,  for  which  some  of  our 
maritime  counties  on  the  western  shore  of  the  island  are  said  to  be  remarkable. 
Perhaps  the  air,  never  stagnant  where  the  western  breezes  first  strike  the 
shore,  imparts  a  purity  to  the  atmosphere,  or  carries  an  extra  quantity  of 
oxygen,  afterwards  dissipated ;  for,  as  an  inhabitant  said,  it  Avas  very  pleasant 


40 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


there  a  good  part  of  the  year,  but  in  winter  they  had  terrible  storms  of  wind, 
"  sure  enough." 

About  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Boscastle  is  the  church  and  parish  of 
St.  Juliot,  called  in  the  neighbourhood  St.  Jilt.  It  is  a  rectory,  and  was 
formerly  the  property  of  the  Abbots  of  Tavistock.  This  parish  contains  only 
two  hamlets,  Beeney  and  Tresparrot ;  Lesnewth  parish  is  two  miles  from  Bos- 
castle towards  the  east,  and  Otterham  about  four.  They  contain  no  object 
worthy  of  notice,  and  are  situated  in  a  very  barren  country.  Of  Warbstow,  to 
the  east  of  Otterham  about  three  miles  and  a  half,  the  same  may  be  said,  except 
that  an  ancient  fortification,  called  Warbstow  Barrow,  exists  here.  It  stands 
upon  a  hill  on  the  north-west  of  the  church-town,  and  is  very  extensive,  con- 
sisting of  a  strong  work  on  the  summit,  with  traces  of  outworks  on  every  side 
except  upon  the  south-west.  The  living  is  united  with  Treneglos,  which  lies 
about  eight  miles  north  of  Camelford,  and  is  in  the  gift  of  the  crown.  David- 
stow  is  another  parish  in  this  barren  country,  about  three  miles  from 
Camelford. 

From  Boscastle  to  Camelford  is  five  miles.  The  way  out  of  the  town  com- 
mences over  a  long  hill,  from  which,  upon  looking  back,  a  magnificent  expanse 
of  ocean  meets  the  view,  bounded  by  the  cliffs  and  headlands  from  Boscastle  to 
Tintagel,  and  far  beyond  the  latter  place.  After  passing  the  summit  of  this 
hill  a  very  dreary  country  presents  itself;  on  every  side  nothing  but  heath  and 
stone  cover  the  ground. 

After  travelling  about  three  miles  and  a  half,  on  arriving  in  a  valley  through 
which  runs  the  main  stream  of  the  Camel  or  Alan  river,  here  of  very  trivial 
import  in  itself,  and  just  across,  in  the  bottom,  a  Avail  of  rock  about  twelve 
feet  high  presents  itself.  The  declivity  on  the  near  side  is  not  rapid,  but 
slopes  with  an  easy  angle  down  to  the  water.  Here,  tradition  says,  King 
Arthur  was  mortally  wounded  in  battle  with  his  nephew  Mordred ;  and  a 
little  farther  on,  where  a  bridge  of  flat  stones,  placed  upon  uprights,  crosses  the 
stream,  the  bloodiest  scene 
of  the  battle  is  said  to  have 
occurred.  From  this  circum- 
stance it  has  come  down  as 
"  Slaughter  Bridge,"  to  the 
present  hour.  The  reader  , 
will  perceive  in  the  annexed 
engraving  two  upright  pil-  f 
lars  and  a  gate  on  the  right 
of  the  bridge,  down  to  which 
at  riffht-an^les  there  is  a 
lane,  with  dense  hedges  on 
each  side.  The  gate  alluded 
to    belongs    to    a     private 


CORNWALL. 


41 


residence  upon  the  lull  beyond.  There  is  a  ridge  in  the  field,  running 
obliquely  upwards  from  the  river.  What  it  has  been  it  is  not  easy  to  decide ; 
perhaps  the  remnant  of  some  ancient  military  work.  There  are  two  battles 
traditionally  stated  to  have  haj^pened  here ;  for  besides  i  he  battle  in  which 
Arthur  received  his  mortal  wound,  there  was  a  sanguinary  contest  on  tliis  spot 
in  823,  between  the  Britons  and  Saxons,  the  latter  under  King  Egbert. 

The  same  dreary  country  as  that  before  prevalent  continues  almost  close  to 
Camelford,  a  town  situated  in  the  parish  of  Lanteglos ;  which  parish,  the  town 
included,  contains  only  about  300  houses  and  1,600  inhabitants.  Though  a 
town  of  great  antiquity,  Camelford  presents  a  scene  of  more  than  customary 
didness,  having  very  little  trade.  It  returned  two  members  to  parliament 
before  the  reform  act,  from  the  time  of  Edward  VI.,  the  representatives  of 
a  mayor,  eight  burgesses,  and  ten  freemen,  out  of  its  population.  Camelford 
possesses  a  weekly  market,  principally  noted  for  the  sale  of  cattle ;  and  also 
four  annual  fairs.  The  town-hall  seen  in  the  engraving  was  built  by  Francis, 
Duke  of  Bedford ;  and  the  corporation  decorated  it  with  a  huge  camel  for  a 
weather-cock,  in  happy  ignorance  of  the  derivation  of  the  name  of  their  own 
town  from  cabm-alan,  the  crooked  river. 


From  Camelford  to  Wadebridge  the  road  presents  interesting  scenery, 
lying  partly  through  a  charming  well- wooded  irriguous  valley.  At  length, 
after  journeying  about  ten  miles,  the  Camel  river  is  seen  expanding  between 
the  hills,  as  Wadebridge  is  approached.  There  are  several  churches  discern- 
ible on  both  sides  of  the  road.  The  church  of  Lanteglos  stands  on  the  right, 
about  a  mile  from  Camelford ;  and  on  the  left  is  Advent,  called  also  St.  Ann, 
or  St.  Tane.     It  is  united  to  Lanteglos,  and  forms  a  rectory,  in  the  gift  of  the 

G 


42 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


Duke  of  Cornwall ;  there  are  eight  small  villages  in  this  parish,  besides  the 
town  of  Camelford,  the  ancient  Gavelford. 

St.  Teath  Church  is  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the  road,  about  three  miles 
and  a  half  from  Camelford ;  and  St.  Kew,  a  good  distance  off  on  the  same 
side,  between  the  seventh  and  eighth  milestones.  The  first  parish,  which 
contains  the  De  la  Bole  quarries,  the  property  of  the  Trevanion  family,  and 
the  church-town,  has  also  the  villages  of  Delamere,  Medrose,  Pengelly,  and 
Treligoe.  The  rectory  of  St.  Kew  once  belonged  to  Plympton  priory.  The 
manor  was  sold  to  the  Granvilles,  who  parted  with  it  to  the  notorious  attorney- 
general  Noy.  It  has  long  since  been  the  property  of  the  Molesworth  family. 
This  church  has  a  good  deal  of  painted  glass  yet  perfect,  and  several  monuments 
of  extinct  families.  The  hamlets  or  villages  are  Ammell,  Tregelles,  Trelil,  and 
Trewethern.  Michaelstow  parish,  on  the  left  of  the  road,  once  contained  the 
ancient  castle  of  Helsbury,  of  which  no  traces  remain.  St.  Tudy,  also  on  the 
left,  some  distance  off,  gave  birth  to  Sir  William  Lower,  the  dramatic  writer, 
and  to  Dr.  William  Lower,  who  died  in  1690,  and  wrote  "  A  Treatise  on  the 
Heart ;"  their  seat  Avas  called  Tremeer.  Above  all,  for  its  beautiful  tower, 
one  of  the  highest  in  the  county,  the  church  of  St.  Mabyn  is  conspicuous. 
It  is  eight  miles  from  Camelford ;  and  in  it  is  a  village  called  Trevisquite. 
There  is  an  almshouse  in  St.  Mabyn,  built  with  a  legacy,  recovered  in  chan- 
cery, and  bequeathed  by  William  Parker. 

Descending  a  steep  hill  between  high  banks  overhung  with  wood,  upon 
which  stand  several  commodious  houses,  appears  Wadebridge,  a  structure 
erected  in  1485,  over  the  Alan.  It  consists  of  seventeen  arches,  but  one  is 
invisible  in  the  engraving. 


This  bridge  owes  its  foundation  to  the  public  spirit  of  a  Mr.  Lovebone, 
vicar  of  Eglosheyle,  who  was  much  affected  by  the  continual  loss  of  life  that 
happened  at  the  ferry  previously  used  for  crossing  the  river.  Lovebone  must 
have  been  an  ingenious  as  well  as  a  humane  man,  for  it  is  recorded  that  he 
laboured  at  his  task,  took  great  pains  with  the  work,  and  was  much  annoyed 
in  laying  the  piers,  on  account  of  the  sandy  nature  of  the  ground,  until  he  had 
recourse  to  packs  of  wool  placed  under  the  foundation.  He  left  201.  per  annum 
towards  its  repairs.    The  Camel  or  Alan  river  rises  at  the  foot  of  Rough  Tor, 


CORNWALL.  43 

on  the  north-east  side  of  the  county,  two  or  three  miles  north  of  Camelford 
town.  It  takes  its  course  by  Camelford  in  a  very  circuitous  channel,  and  hence 
the  name  of  Cam  or  Cabm-alan,  or  the  crooked  Alan ;  Cam,  in  Cornish,  sig- 
nifying crooked,  since  confused  into  the  separate  names  of  Camel  or  Alan,  the 
latter  being  the  real  appellation  of  the  river. 

The  gentle  gliding  of  this  beautiful  stream,  luminous  with  sunshine  and 
garnished  with  harvest  fields,  in  their  richest  tints, — now  basking  in  noonday 
glory,  or  darkly  stealing  among  umbered  trees  by  Eglosheyle ;  now  narrowing 
and  overhung  with  foliage,  or  winding  along  under  shady  banks,  or  gushing 
over  a  stony  bed  yet  higher  up  above  the  bridge, — seemed  after  leaving  the 
dreary  country  about  Camelford,  far  more  agreeable  and  beautiful  than  it 
would  have  appeared  under  any  other  circumstances.  Wadebridge  is  still  a 
pleasant  spot,  independently  of  what  it  may  gain  by  contrast ;  but  the  build- 
ings exhibit  nothing  worthy  of  note,  and  are  divided  by  the  river.  The  bridge, 
the  eastern  end  of  which  is  in  St.  Breock  parish,  bears  a  large  and  fine  fig-tree, 
which  has  long  flourished,  without  any  one  being  able  to  account  satisfactorily 
for  its  ajipearance ;  the  roots  are  fixed  among  the  interstices  of  the  stones  upon 
the  northern  or  sea  side,  and  just  over  an  arch.  Wadebridge  has  a  post-office 
and  market.  The  parish  church  of  Eglosheyle,  in  which  the  town  is  partly 
situated,  lies  not  quite  a  mile  up  the  stream,  from  the  bridge,  upon  its  southern 
side.  It  is  almost  close  to  the  river,  in  a  secluded  and  pleasant  spot  upon 
the  road  to  Bodmin.  The  mortuary  inscriptions  record  deaths  in  1832  from 
the  cholera.  To  those  who  consider  the  seclusion  of  the  place,  and  the  little 
chance  of  an  intercourse  subsisting  with  any  spot  from  which  infection  might 
be  brought,  this  will  appear  extraordinary.  The  site,  however,  is  low,  not  far 
from  the  banks  of  the  river.  We  observed  a  stone  in  this  distant  church- 
yard, "  To  the  memory  of  George  Jewel,  m.d.  founder  of  the  Royal  Adelaide 
Hospital,  London,  who  died  at  Wadebridge,  November  14,  1840,  aged  47."* 

Eglosheyle,f  signifying  in  Cornish  the  "  church  by  the  river,"  contains 
several  villages  besides  Wadebridge :  the  houses  in  the  parish  are  220,  the  popu- 
lation above  1500.     The  manor  of  Park,  within  its  limit,  was  once  the  seat  of 

*  In  Eglosheyle  is  the  following  curious  epitaph  : — "  Here  lieth  the  body  of  Nicholas,  son  of  John 
and  Catharine  Oliver,  who  departed  this  life  the  5th  of  July,  1772,  in  his  21st  year. 

"  In  the  bloom  of  all  my  year, 

As  on  my  tomb  you  finde, 
My  parents  dear,  and  frends  so  near, 

Am  forced  to  leve  behinde. 
But  since  it  is  the  will  of  God, 

Contented  they  must  be  ; 
In  heaven  above,  in  peace  and  love, 

I  hope  I  shall  them  see. 
Transit  hora,  sive  mora, 
Sic  transit  gloria  mundi." 
t  Eylos,  Cornish  for  a  church,  and  heyle,  a  river. 


44  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

the  Peverell  family — and  was  less  anciently  the  property  of  the  Lords  Bottreaux 
and  Hungerford.  At  present  it  belongs  to  the  Molesworths,  whose  seat, — 
now  occupied  by  Sir  William  Molesworth,  so  well  known  both  as  a  scholar  of 
considerable  acquirements,  and  an  ardent  politician, — is  called  Pencarrow, 
built  in  1730.  Sir  William  Molesworth  possesses  also  the  manor  of  Pendavy, 
and  the  old  family  seat  of  the  Kestalls,  now  converted  into  a  farm-house. 
Eglosheyle  church  contains  monuments  of  the  Molesworth  and  Kestall  families, 
and  possesses  two  charity  schools  supported  by  voluntary  contributions.  There 
is  an  ancient  entrenchment  here,  called  Castle  Killbury,  not  less  than  six 
acres  in  extent,  enclosed  with  a  triple  ditch. 

We  left  Eglosheyle,  and  took  the  high  road  to  Bodmin,  over  Slade's  Bridge, 
crossing  a  stream  called  the  Laine,  which  flows  into  the  Camel.  The  road 
runs  generally  in  the  vale,  until  the  traveller  reaches  Dunmere  Bridge,  a  very 
short  distance  from  Bodmin,  when,  after  having  descended  a  hill,  and  crossed 
that  bridge,  beneath  which  the  Camel  or  Alan  flows  rapidly  and  clear  as 
crystal,  a  steep  ascent  leads  up  to  the  town  of  Bodmin.  This  town  is  situated 
partly  in  a  high  valley  of  no  great  breadth,  and  partly  on  the  side  of  a  hill ; 
the  main  street  running  in  a  direction  almost  east  and  west.  The  road  from 
Wadebridge  joins  that  from  Truro  nearly  at  the  top  of  this  hill,  where  stands 
the  twenty-second  milestone  from  the  Cornish  metropolis.  The  town  is  very 
much  improved  since  the  whole  of  the  county  sessions  and  assizes  have  been 
held  there.  The  summer  assizes  had  been  held  at  Bodmin  before,  from  1716, 
except  on  two  occasions.  New  buildings  have  arisen  in  every  direction,  many 
of  them  faced  with  granite  very  finely  cut.  The  new  and  commodious  market 
is  of  this  material ;  and  the  cornice  over  the  entrance  is  adorned  with  bulls' 
heads,  nearly  of  the  natural  size,  cut  in  bold  three-quarter  relief,  from  the  solid 
stone.  The  dislike  of  working  this  enduring  material,  which  so  appals  the 
metropolitan  workmen,  is  abundantly  rebuked  by  the  use  of  granite  in  its 
native  county,  and  the  facility  with  which  it  is  shaped  out  there.  In  Bodmin 
there  are  names  over  houses  of  business,  in  which  the  letters  are  worked  out  in 
high  relief,  with  perfect  sharpness  and  effect. 

The  concentration  of  the  courts  of  justice  at  Bodmin  is  an  improvement, 
although  Truro  should  have  divided  them  with  Bodmin ;  because,  singular  as 
it  may  appear,  more  than  two-thirds  of  the  population  of  the  county  reside 
west  of  a  line  drawn  from  Wadebridge  to  Lostwithiel ;  and  of  these  two-thirds, 
three  parts  out  of  four  are  found  west  of  a  line  drawn  from  St.  Columb  to 
Truro  inclusive.  In  order  to  obtain  a  population  sufficient  for  the  eastern 
division  of  the  county,  under  the  Reform  Act,  to  return  four  members,  it 
was  necessary  to  divide  the  county  by  a  line  which  appropriated  two-thirds  of 
the  surface  eastwards,  to  obtain  a  portion  of  the  population  10,000  less  than 
that  existing  in  the  western  third. 

Bodmin  is  a  corporate  town,  and  has  returned  two  members  to  parliament 
since  the  time  of  Edward  I.     The  limits  of  the  borough,  under  the  Reform 


CORNWALL. 


45 


Act,  include  the  neighbouring  parishes  of  Lanivet,  Lanhydrock,  and  Helland ; 
and  the  number  of  101.  houses  is  311.*  It  has  an  excellent  market,  already 
mentioned ;  it  lies  upon  the  left-hand  side  of  the  principal  street,  passing  to 
the  east.  A  market  on  Saturday  is  recorded  in  this  town  so  long  ago  as  when 
Doomsday-book  was  taken,  the  profits  of  which  then  belonged  to  the  prior ; 
but  are  now  vested  in  the  burgesses,  f  A  county  prison,  on  the  plan  of  the 
philanthropic  Howard,  was  erected  here  in  1780,  on  the  north-west  part  of 
the  town ;  and  there  is  a  county  lunatic  asylum,  of  later  date,  standing  at  no 
great  distance  from  the  gaol,  on  the  west.  There  is  no  doubt  but  Bodmin  was 
anciently  one  of  the  most  considerable  places  in  the  county ;  the  population  of 
the  town  in  1831  was  3,782 ;  which  was  an  increase  upon  the  number  of  1811, 
upwards  of  1,500.  In  the  year  1351,  no  less  than  1,500  persons  died  of 
the  plague  there ;  an  evidence  of  its  having  been  once  much  more  populous 
than  it  is  at  present. 

The  church,  erected  about  the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century,  is  situated  at 
the  east  end  of  the  town,  and  belonged  to  the  priory,  of  which  no  remains  now 
exist  worthy  of  description ;  nor  indeed  of  other  religious  buildings  which  are 
known  to  have  existed.  No  spot  better  adapted  for  religious  meditation 
could  have  been  selected.  A  lofty  spire,  which  stood  on  the  present  tower, 
was  destroyed  by  lightning  in  1699.  Handsome  as  the  present  church  is,  the 
cost  of  its  erection  was  no  more  than  1 94/.  35.  6  \d.  St.  Petroc  is  said  to  have 
chosen  the  site  for  his  abode  in  the  sixth  century,  and  here  he  died.  King 
Athelstan  afterwards  founded  a  Benedictine  priory  upon  the  spot,  and  granted 
the  superior  a  market,  fair,  the  pillory,  gallows,  and  other  immunities  of  the 
time,  conferred  upon  similar  establishments.  Sternhold,  one  of  the  translators 
of  the  psalmody  which  goes  by  his  name,  was  possessor  of  this  demesne  sub- 
sequent to  the  dissolution  and  spoiling  — ^_-_ 
of  the  religious  houses  by  Henry  VIII. 
The  present  church  is  123  feet  long, 
by  60  wide ;  and  within  is  exceedingly 
handsome,  consisting  of  three  aisles  di- 
vided by  nine  arches,  after  the  style  of 
the  fifteenth  century.  These  spring 
from  columns,  clustered  and  of  fine 
proportion.  There  is  a  very  curious 
font  in  this  church,  evidently  of  high 
antiquity.  At  the  altar  end  are  seve- 
ral rude  carved  seats ;  and  fragments  of 
the  wrecks  of  broken  monuments  are 

seen  among  the  paving  stones.     The  only  one  notable  here  in  the  reign  of 
Henry  VIII.,  and  still  noted,  is  the  tomb  of  Prior  Vivian ;   he  died  July  3, 

*  See,  for  the  population,  the  returns  at  the  end  of  the  County  Itinerary. 

t  Leland  says,  that  in  his  time  Bodmin  had  "  a  market  like  a  fair,  for  the  confluence  of  people." 


46 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


1533  ;  it  represents  him  in 
effigy,  angels  protecting  his 
head,  and  his  hands  clasped 
together  upon  his  breast. 
There  are  six  niches  on 
the  sides  of  the  tomb, 
filled  with  statues  of  dif- 
ferent saints. 

East  of  the  church,  the 
tower  of  which  is  handsome 
and  well  proportioned,  is 
part  of  an  old  building, 
which  upon  inquiry  we 
found  was  used  as  a  school- 
room ;  this,  perhaps,  is  what 
Leland  called  a  "  cantuary 

chapel,"  or  some  remains  of  that,  or  of  the  priory.  Upon  the  site  of  the  priory,  or 
the  larger  part  of  it,  a  private  residence  is  now  erected.  The  church-yard  is  in 
excellent  order,  more  from  the  absence  of  lawless  tread,  and  a  spirit  of  deface- 
ment in  the  people,  than  from  care.  Here  the  wanton  profanation  of  parish 
cemeteries  is  seldom  remarked.  The  church-yards  of  Cornwall  are,  in  general, 
exceedingly  well  preserved.  The  people  seem  to  respect  their  precincts,  and 
to  view  them  as  the  residence  of  the  unforgotten  who  preceded  them.  There  is 
nowhere  to  be  seen  that  trim  order  and  fastidiousness  which  bespeaks  rather  the 
pride  of  pecuniary  display,  than  any  sensibility  to  the  lessons  read  by  such  places 
to  the  living,  whether  of  affectionate  regard  for  those  who  are  no  more,  or  of 
memento  to  self, — as  prevail  in  the  new  cemeteries  near  the  metropolis,  and 
other  large  places.  The  neatness  observed  follows  no  garden  plan :  the  flowers 
are  generally  wild  that  bloom  in  these  ;  the  scythe  has  paid  no  monthly  visit  to 
the  turf;  nor  has  the  heavy  roller  smoothed  the  path,  that  winds  amid  the 
narrow  houses  appointed  for  all  living ;  but  there  is  in  these  church-yards  that 
which  passes  all  show  of  art, — where  the  hook,  that  crops  the  weedy  affluence, 
and  the  besom,  are  the  only  instruments  used,  and  these  rarely, — there  is  a 
wild  neatness ;  flowers  seem  to  spring  in  such  an  appropriate  manner,  and  the 
over-arching  foliage  to  shade  the  unconscious  dead  that  slumber  below,  so 
naturally ;  all  is  so  fitting  without  care,  so  quiet  in  its  own  nature,  and  in 
general  so  solitary,  that  the  inclination  to  gaze  a  little  space  upon  them  is  irre- 
sistible. Whether  shaded  with  foliage,  or  canopied  alone  by  the  heavens,  the 
head  and  foot-stone  distinguishes  the  humblest  graves  in  Cornwall;  and  the 
last  resting-place  of  many  perished  generations  of  men, — who  can  say  of  how 
many  ? — is  equally  a  sanctified  spot  in  this  county,  to  a  degree  in  some  cases 
peculiarly  striking.  Even  the  grave-ground  of  the  little  church  of  Sennen, 
the  first  and  last  in  England,  is  as  neatly  kept  as  those  which  are  in  situations 


CORNWALL.  47 

far  nearer  the  haunts  of  congregated  man.  At  Bodmin  the  situation  of  the 
cemetery  is  amid  the  busy  hum  of  men ;  but  it  is  still  appropriate  and  in 
keeping. 

A  curious  printed  account  of  Jasper  Wood,  vicar  of  Bodmin  for  thirty-seven 
years,  was  said  to  exist  among  the  scarce  tracts  of  the  time,  a  little  while  ago. 
He  died  in  1716  ;  before  his  decease  he  fancied  himself  bewitched,  and  gave 
an  account  of  his  delivery  from  the  spell  put  upon  him,  by  the  interference  of 
his  guardian  angel.  The  inhabitants  have  traditionally  many  strange  stories 
about  him,  which,  as  is  generally  the  case,  seem  to  lose  nothing  in  the  relation. 

There  is  a  grammar-school  in  this  town,  founded  by  Queen  Elizabeth,  and 
endowed  with  51.  from  the  exchequer,  and  100/.  from  the  corporation,  out  of 
the  market  tolls.  A  new  school-room  has  recently  been  added,  in  a  commo- 
dious situation.  Besides  the  church  there  are  two  dissenting  chapels.  The 
county  meetings  are  kept  here,  as  well  as  the  registry  and  court  of  the  arch- 
deaconry of  Cornwall. 

The  idea  of  Bodmin  having  once  been  the  see  of  a  western  bishop  was  fully 
refuted  by  Whittaker  of  Kuan  Langhorne ;  who  has  shown  clearly  the  errors 
into  which  some  of  his  sanguine  and  credulous  brother  antiquaries  had  fallen 
in  this  matter,  and  their  mistake  in  supposing  it  was  the  monastery  of  St. 
Petroc  at  Bodmin,  that  was  burned  by  the  Danes,  in  place  of  a  religious  house 
dedicated  to  the  same  saint  some  distance  off,  and  situated  near  the  sea-side. 
A  house  of  the  Grey  Friars,  once  existing  in  this  town,  was  founded  by  John 
de  London,  under  the  patronage  of  Edmund,  Earl  of  Cornwall. 

In  the  year  1496,  two  individuals  of  this  parish,  Michael  Joseph  and  Thomas 
Flamank, — the  last,  ancestor  of  the  present  family, — proprietors  of  the  Barton 
of  Boskarne,  were  concerned  in  the  rebellion  of  Perkin  Warbeck,  who,  landing 
in  Cornwall,  marched  to  lay  Exeter  under  siege ;  and  for  a  time  made  Bodmin 
their  head  quarters.  In  1550,  the  Cornish  rebels  under  one  of  the  Arundel 
family,  were  much  favoured  by  the  inhabitants  of  Bodmin ;  and  a  special 
commission  being  sent  down  under  Sir  A.  Kingston,  the  worthy  representative 
of  justice,  after  accepting  the  mayor's  hospitality,  hanged  him  at  his  own 
door.  Others  of  this  personage's  freaks  are  still  told,  which  show  that  Jeffries 
in  the  Monmouth  rebellion,  amid  all  his  atrocities,  might  have  quoted  pre- 
cedent in  their  justification.  Kingston  hung  Mr.  Mayow  of  St.  Columb,  in  that 
town,  upon  a  charge  not  capital,  nor  even  proved.  Mr.  Mayow's  wife  hearing 
her  husband  was  in  custody,  spent  so  much  time  before  her  glass  in  order  to 
render  her  solicitations  for  her  husband  more  prevailing,  that  before  she 
reached  the  presence  of  this  demon  of  the  law,  the  poor  man  was  dangling  at 
a  sign  post.  He  also  hung  the  portreeve  of  St.  Ives  in  the  middle  of  the  town. 
His  execution  of  the  mayor  of  Bodmin  is  thus  related :  — The  poor  mayor  had 
heen  forced  to  favour  the  seditious.  Kingston  wrote  him  a  letter  that  he  would 
dine  with  him  on  a  particular  day,  and  preparation  was  made  to  receive  this 
bloody-minded  lawyer  with  due  honour.     Kingston  arrived  with  a  train  of 


48  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

attendants,  and  had  scarcely  entered  the  mayor's  house  when  he  called  him 
aside,  and  requested  him  to  get  a  gallows  erected  immediately,  as  he  should 
proceed  to  execute  some  persons  after  dinner.  The  mayor  obeyed  the  order. 
When  the  administrator  of  the  law  had  dined  comfortably,  he  took  the  mayor 
by  the  arm,  and  asked  to  see  the  gallows.  "  Dost  thou  think  they  are  strong 
enough  ?"  said  the  judge. — "  Doubtless  they  are,"  answered  the  mayor.  "  Then 
get  thee  up,"  said  Kingston,  "  they  are  erected  for  thee." — "  I  hope  you  mean 
not  as  you  speak,"  said  the  poor  mayor.  "  There  is  no  remedy,"  said  the  judge, 
"  you  have  been  a  sorry  rebel."  Accordingly  the  mayor  was  executed  without 
more  ceremony.  This  same  Kingston,  who  thus  hung  men  in  Edward  VI. 's 
time,  for  rising  against  the  persecution  of  the  old  religion,  in  Queen  Mary's 
time  took  briefs  on  the  other  side,  and  was  equally  zealous  in  persecuting  the 
protestants. 

There  was  a  hospital  for  lepers  about  a  mile  from  Bodmin,  which  OAved  its 
incorporation  to  Queen  Elizabeth,  about  the  year  1582.  The  remains  consist 
of  three  pointed  arches  and  some  ruinous  walls.  The  following  inscription 
was  lately  legible  upon  the  walls,  in  black  letter : — "  Richard  Carter  of  St. 
Columbe,  marchant,  by  his  last  wylle  &  testament,  in  ano.  dom.  1582,  did 
geve  ten  pounde  for  the  ollurance  of  twentie  shillinges  yerelye  to  be  payed  unto 
us  the  poer  lepers  of  the  hospy tall,  and  to  our  successors  for  ever ;  which  ten 
pounde,  by  the  consent  of  his  executor,  we  have  im ployed  towardes  the  makyng 
of  thys  howse  in  ano  1586 ;  whose  charitable  and  rare  example  in  oure  tyme, 
God  grantete  main  to  follow  hereaftre."  The  charter  shows  that  long  before 
this  time  there  had  been  an  establishment  of  a  similar  nature  in  the  same  place, 
and  a  prior,  brethren  and  sisters,  of  Lazars,  unincorporated.  Her  majesty,  in 
her  good  will  and  pleasure,  incorporated  them  as  the  "  Master,  or  governor, 
and  brothers  and  sisters,  in  all  thirty-nine,  of  the  hospital  of  Ponteboy ;"  the 
poor  men  and  women  were  to  be  lepers,  and  to  elect  one  another.  James  I. 
granted  the  establishment  some  additional  privileges;  among  them  a  fair,  which 
is  still  kept  on  the  21st  of  August,  and  another  for  cattle  on  the  29th  and 
30th  of  October.  The  seal  of  this  hospital  is  yet  preserved,  and  is  a  very 
curious  relic  of  its  kind.  While  the  charities  so  privileged  perish,  it  is  won- 
derful how  every  thing  connected  with  them  that  contributes  to  private  gain 
survives.  The  lands  with  which  this  hospital  was  endowed,  or  rather  what, 
perhaps,  remained  of  them,  had  dwindled  to  140/.  per  annum ;  and  this  sum 
had  been  wholly  withdrawn  from  its  legitimate  object,  the  fairs  and  markets 
remaining  in  full  vigour  notwithstanding.  There  were  no  more  sick  or  infirm 
heard  of  for  a  long  while,  but  the  buying  and  selling  went  on  as  usual.  A 
suit  was  instituted  in  chancery,  terminating  the  mock  corporation  by  which 
the  trust  had  been  abused,  and  transferring  its  funds  to  a  truly  charitable 
institution,  the  county  infirmary,  at  Truro. 

The  parish  of  Bodmin  is  large,  and  contains  four  adjoining  villages  or  ham- 
lets, Dunmere,  Nantallan,  St.  Lawrence,  and  Bodiniel.     There  were  anciently 


CORNWALL. 


49 


several  manors  of  Bodmin,  now  in  the  possession,  by  purchase  or  inheritance, 
of  the  Basset,  Robartes,  Grenville,  and  Hoblyn  families,  or  their  representa- 
tives. The  remains  of  the  castle  of  Kynock,  or  Canyke,  are  in  one  of  these 
manors,  consisting  of  grass-covered  earth  works.  There  was  a  long-observed 
custom  at  Bodmin,  or  rather  in  the  neighbourhood,  upon  Halgaver  Moor, 
anciently  held  in  July,  and  then  attended  by  a  vast  number  of  all  classes 
of  peo2>le,  though  at  present  it  is  otherwise.  A  sort  of  mayor  of  misrule 
was  elected,  who  held  a  court  for  the  trial  of  offenders  within  his  jurisdiction. 
He  was  styled  the  "  Mayor  of  Halgaver."  All  persons  accused  of  negligence 
in  garb,  or  of  wearing  only  one  spur,  or  any  one  accused  of  omitting  a  par- 
ticular article  of  dress,  or  being  deficient  in  good  manners,  was  charged  as  with 
a  felony.  A  mock  trial  took  place,  in  which  the  prosy  forms  of  a  regular 
court  were  burlesqued  with  becoming  gravity ;  and  sentence  being  as  gravely 
pronounced,  it  was  executed  upon  the  culprit  in  some  ridiculous  punishment, 
rather  calculated  to  excite  the  laughter  of  the  assembled  multitude,  than  to 
injure  the  party  who  thus  suffered  judgment.  That  this  burlesque  originated  in 
a  very  ancient  custom  cannot  be  doubted.  "  Take  him  before  the  Mayor  of 
Halgaver," — "  Present  him  in  Halgaver  court,"  are  old  Cornish  proverbs  in 
the  way  of  joke  for  petty  offences  against  neatness  of  dress,  or  for  a  breach 
of  good  manners. 

At  Lanivet,  about  three 
miles  from  Bodmin,  are  the 
remains  of  an  ancient  mo- 
nastic building,  delineated 
in  the  engraving.  It  is 
lamentable  to  state,  that, 
by  an  exhibition  of  more 
than  Gothic  bad  taste,  the 
cloisters  were  removed  at  a 
comparatively  recent  date. 
This  is  one  of  the  few  mo- 
nastic edifices  in  Cornwall 
of  which  any  considerable 
portion  has  remained  to  a 
late  period.  The  tower  is 
beautifully  covered  with  ivy.  St.  Bennet's  was  of  the  Benedictine  order,  and 
is  said  to  have  been  subordinate  to  some  foreign  monastery,  generally  supposed 
that  of  Monte  Cassino,  in  Italy.  It  afterwards  became  a  seat  of  the  Cour- 
tenay  family,  and  was  sold  by  one  of  its  members,  in  1710,  to  Mr.  Bernard 
Pennington;  and,  in  1720,  resold  to  Richard  Grove.  It  is  now  the  pro- 
perty of  the  Rev.  F.  V.  J.  Arundel.  What  exists  of  the  monastery  is  inha- 
bited by  labourers  in  the  service  of  the  owner.  The  appearance  of  these 
ruins  from  the  high   road,   on  the  right  hand,  going  westward,  is  stinking; 

it 


50  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

the  vicinity  too  is  well  adorned  with  wood.  Lanivet  hill  is  covered  with 
massy  rocks. 

The  church  of  Lanivet  has  nothing  remarkable  in  its  architecture,  but  it 
contains  several  monuments  of  the  Courtenays,  who  afterwards  resided  at  Tre- 
meere,  in  this  parish.*  There  are  lands  in  this  and  the  neighbouring  parishes 
that  once  belonged  to  St.  Bonnet's,  and  let  for  110Z.  per  annum,  vested  in 
the  "  twelve  men  of  the  parish,"  as  they  are  styled,  for  the  use  of  the  poor. 
These  "  men  of  the  parish "  accordingly  maintain  some  poor  in  an  old  alms- 
house, and  support  a  charity-school  under  the  same  roof,  allowing  81.  to  the 
master  per  annum,  and  a  dwelling-house. 

The  great  mail-road  through  Truro  to  Falmouth  from  Launceston  passes 
through  Bodmin,  the  central  situation  of  which  unites  roads  from  the  south- 
east, south,  north,  and  west ;  and  as  it  was  our  determination  to  cross  what 
are  called  the  Moors  to  St.  Cleer,  properly  St.  Clare,  and  as  the  road  that 
way  was  not  practicable  for  any  vehicle  but  a  Cornish  cart,  and  moreover  as 
our  starting  point  could  only  be  reached  by  travelling  ten  miles  towards 
Launceston,  over  a  dreary  road,  we  mounted  the  mail  as  far  as  a  solitary  inn, 
situated  in  a  desolate  spot,  where  the  coach  changes  horses.  This  inn  is 
called  the  "Jamaica  Inn."  No  view  is  to  be  obtained  on  any  side,  for, 
around  were  only  heathy  moors,  brown,  and  monotonous.  We  reached  it  at 
night-fall,  in  a  drizzling  south-west  rain,  and  on  foot,  having  left  the  mail  to 
examine  the  Four-Hole  Stone,  which  stands  by  the  road-side,  about  a  mile  from 
the  Inn,  on  a  desert  heath,  called  Temple  Moor ;  truly,  "  a  waste,  howling 
wilderness."  The  parish  of  Temple  is  about  six  miles  from  Bodmin,  and  gives 
name  to  a  long  tract  of  wretched  downs  between  Bodmin  and  Launceston  ;  it 
contains  only  three  miserable  huts,  and  the  remnant  of  a  dilapidated  church. 
The  manor  here  once  belonged  to  the  Knights  Hospitallers,  and  is  now,  with 
the  living  and  ruins  of  the  church,  the  property  of  Sir  Bouchier  Wrey,  the  patron 
of  a  sinecure  benefice,  twice  augmented  by  queen  Anne's  bounty.  Many  living 
a  few  years  since  recollected  divine  service  being  performed  in  this  church.  The 
rector  of  Blisland,  five  miles  from  Bodmin,  an  adjoining  parish,  now  does  the 
surplice  duty,  and  keeps  the  registry  of  baptisms  and  burials  for  the  three  cot- 
tages, which  are  entered  in  the  Blisland  register.!  Blisland  manor  belongs  to  Sir 
W.  Molesworth  ;  and  there  are  some  inconsiderable  hamlets  in  the  parish ;  the 

*  On  the  tomb  of  Richard  Courtenay,  of  Tremeere,  and  his  wife,  who  died  in  1632,  is  the  following 
epitaph :—  «  Tliey  lived  and  d;ed  both  jn  Tremeere, 

God  hath  their  souls,  their  bones  He  here; 
Richard  with  Thomsen,  his  loved  wife, 
Lived  02  years,  then  ended  life." 

"(  There  are  memorials  of  the  Kemp  family  in  the  church.  The  Rev.  C.  Morton,  ejected  from  it 
by  the  Act  of  Uniformity,  was  author  of  "  A  Discourse  for  improving  the  County  of  Cornwall,"  in 
1075,  the  seventh  chapter  of  which  treats  of  the  utility  of  sea  sand  as  a  manure,  now  so  generally 
used.  He  also  published  "  A  Letter  to  prove  Money  not  so  necessary  as  imagined ;"  "  Considerations 
on  the  New  River  ;"  and  various  theological  works. 


CORNWALL. 


51 


manor-house  is  occupied  by  labourers.  Upon  these 
dreary  moors,  close  to  the  road-side,  the  Four-Hole 
Cross  stands,  eight  miles  and  a  half  beyond  Bodmin; 
it  is  much  defaced  by  age,  and  is  in  no  respect  more 
remarkable  than  many  other  stone  crosses  in  which 
Cornwall  abounds,  though  some  deem  it  the  oldest. 
It  has  been  ornamented  with  scrolls,  which  are  now 
scarcely  joerceptible  from  the  effect  of  time. 

The  Jamaica  Inn  afforded  coarse  but  clean  ac- 
commodation. During  the  night  the  wind  swept 
in  gusts  across  the  moors  from  the  south,  driving 
along  rain  fine  as  vapour.  After  breakfast,  the 
atmosphere  having  cleared  a  little,  we  struck  off 
across  the  moors,  with  a  pocket  compass, — a  most 
useful  companion  had  the  misty  rain  come  on  again. 
There  is  a  road  on  the  southern  side  of  this  great  eastern  turnpike,  literally 
strewed  with  granite  rocks,  which  we  first  passed  over :  these  rough  masses 
were  then  exchanged  for  disintegrated  granite,  soft  and  gravelly  to  the  tread. 
The  great  mail  road  disappeared  by  a  turn  among  the  moors,  up  which  we 
proceeded  to  visit  the  celebrated  lake,  or  rather  tarn,  called  Dosmary  Pool. 
No  scene  can  be  imagined  more  horribly  dreary.  In  most  mountainous 
countries,  bare  of  vegetation,  a  peak,  a  rock,  a  precipice,  the  mere  wreck 
of  something,  besides  a  lifeless  tarn,  is  in  the  scene,  relieves  the  eye,  and 
breaks  the  sameness  of  the  view.  Nothing  of  the  kind  was  observable  here. 
Dosmary  Pool  is  a  piece  of  water  at  the  bottom  of  two  or  three  rounded 
eminences,  covered  with  stunted  heath,  in  itself  dark  and  unlovely  enough. 
It  is  contemptible  as  a  lake,  not  being  more  than  a  mile  in  circumference, 
yet  its  extraordinary  desolation  attaches  to  it  a  species  of  singularity  that 
strikes  from  its  very  negation  of  all  character.  The  cheerless  aspect  of  the 
spot  naturally  accounts  for  the  stories  which  the  country  people  have  invented, 
of  its  unfathomable  depth, — it  is  really  shallow, — and  of  its  extraordinary 
visitant.  When  the  winter  winds  sweep  over  the  hills  around,  and  ruffle 
at  such  times  the  almost  leaden  stillness  of  its  surface  ;  when  the  misty  rain 
dims  the  landscape,  or  the  sound  of  the  tempest  almost  stuns  the  ear, — the 
Cornish  cry,  "  Tregagle  is  roaring ;  hark !"  The  nurses,  from  one  end  of 
the  county  to  the  other,  continually  exclaim,  in  order  to  silence  their  crying 
children,  "  Be  quiet ;  thou  art  roaring  like  Tregagle."  The  only  explanation 
the  people  give  of  this  personage's  business  and  identity,  consists  in  their 
stating  that  Tregagle  is  a  giant,  condemned,  not  "  to  toil  in  fire,"  at  such 
seasons,  but  in  water,  and  "to  teem"*  out  Dosmary  Pool  with  a  limpet  shell; 
he  is  consequently  said  to  be  roaring  with  anger  at  the  hopelessness  of  his 

*  "  To  teem"  in  Cornwall  is  frequently  used  for  the  verb  "to  empty ;"  this  is  really  one  meaning 
of  the  word:  Swift  says  "  Teem  out  the  remainder  of  the  ale  into  the  tankard." 


02  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

task,  even  sometimes  when  midnight  wraps  this  inhospitable  spot.  Often  the 
devil  chases  him  round  the  borders  of  the  fearful  pool,  until,  fairly  out- 
running the  evil  one,  Tregagle  reaches  Roche  Rock,  and,  thrusting  his  head  in 
at  the  chapel  window,  finds  a  respite  from  his  tormentor.  Having  once  upon 
a  time  a  vast  load  of  sand  upon  his  back,  and  being  pursued  by  Satan,  he 
dropped  it  between  Loe  Pool  and  the  sea,  near  Helston,  and  thus  formed  the 
large  sand  bar  existing  there.  This  personage  is  said  to  have  borne  the  name  of 
"  Jan,"  or  "  Janny,"  when  alive.  His  sufferings  are  caused  by  his  having  got 
hold  of  the  heir  of  considerable  estates,  murdered  the  father  and  mother,  and 
converted  the  property  to  his  own  use : — thus  runs  the  story.  The  name  is 
Cornish,  and  there  was  once  a  family  so  denominated,  resident  at  Treworder, 
in  St.  Breock,  now  extinct,  one  of  whom  was  Sir  John  Tregagle. 

From  visiting  this  Dead  sea  of  Cornwall,  not  far  from  which  once  stood  a 
chapel,  we  returned  some  portion  of  the  way  we  had  before  passed,  and  then 
pursued  a  course  almost  due  east,  to  fall  in  with  the  Fowey  river,  which  we 
knew  would  serve  as  a  guide  during  the  future  part  of  our  march.  By  falling 
in  with  the  river,  and  keeping  parallel,  it  was  not  easy  to  lose  the  way  upon 
these  wild  moors.  The  river  had  crossed  the  mail-road  to  Launceston,  some 
distance  beyond  the  place  where  our  course  diverged  from  it,  at  what  is  called 
Palmer's  Bridge.  Its  source  is  at  a  spot  called  Fowey  Well,  near  Brown 
Willy,  in  the  parish  of  Alternon,  and  hundred  of  Lesnewth,  eight  miles  west 
of  Launceston,  and  about  the  same  distance  from  Camelford.  This  parish 
is  the  most  extensive  in  Cornwall,  containing  12,770  acres,  but  only  four 
hamlets.  Formerly  there  was  a  singular  manner  here  of  curing  madness,  per- 
haps a  pretended  mode  of  casting  out  evil  sjDirits,  borrowed  from  some  other 
place.  The  insane  person  was  placed  on  the  brink  of  a  square  hollow,  filled 
with  water  from  St.  Nun's  well,  unconscious  of  what  was  intended,  and  was 
tumbled  suddenly  into  the  water  by  a  blow  on  the  breast.  He  was  then  pulled 
about,  up  and  under,  until  his  strength,  and  his  rage  with  it,  had  forsaken  him. 
He  was  next  taken  to  church,  and  prayers  said  over  him.  If  he  was  not  cured,  the 
immersion  Avas  again  had  recourse  to.  This  was  called  "  Boussening,"  from  Bid- 
hysi,  to  dip,  in  Cornish  and  Armoric.  Here,  too,  was  the  ancient  estate  of  the 
Trelawney  family,  long  passed  into  other  hands.  The  church  is  said  to  be  the 
burial-place  of  a  saint,  called  St.  Nonnet,  mother  of  St.  David,  for  in  Cornwall 
every  parish  is  sainted.  *    One  Peter  Joll  is  reported  to  have  been  the  clerk,  who 

*  There  is  a  joke,  that  the  devil  will  not  venture  among  the  Cornish,  for  fear  of  being  sainted  or  put 
into  a  pie  ;  the  variety  of  sainted  churches  as  of  pies  being  pretty  nearly  equal,  and  some  of  both 
doubtless  excellent  in  their  way.  The  pies  seem  to  have  preserved  their  qualities  and  names 
unchanged,  but  the  Cornish,  or  the  Saxon,  or  both,  make  strange  work  with  the  saints  in  this  regard. 
Cornwall  has  saints  never  heard  of  out  of  the  county,  and  churches  called  after  new  names  have  ob- 
tained the  St.  for  antecedent  imaginary  beings,  no  martyrology  containing  them, — there  is  St.  Creed, 
St.  Mewan,  and  St.  Newlyn ;  while  some  real  saints  have  lost  their  saintships,  as  Probus,  Colan,  Buryan. 
Of  Cornish  saints,  there  is  St.  Keby,  St.  Mellion,  St.  Gerrans,  St.  Milor,  and  many  more.  There  are 
Welsh,  and  even  some  Irish  saints,  with  their  names  cruelly  mangled.  St.  Paternusis  now  Petherwin, 
and  so  of  many  others. 


CORNWALL. 


53 


lived  to  be  a  hundred  and  fifty  years  of  age,  and  in  his  hundredth  year  cut  a 
new  set  of  teeth.  But  the  river  Fowey  is  forgotten.  The  Fowey  rises  at  Fowey 
Well,  in  a  "  very  wagmore,"  in  the  side  of  a  hill,  says  old  Leland,  in  whose 
time  the  higher  part  was  called  Draines.  Upon  the  present  occasion  it  was 
first  seen  a  mile  or  two  on  the  south,  below  Palmer's  Bridge,  running  rapidly 
through  the  moors,  in  a  deep-worn  channel,  over  loose  stones  and  blocks  of 
granite.  Its  stream  was  the  most  pellucid  we  ever  saw  upon  first  falling  in  with 
it,  but  was  afterwards  tinged  for  some  distance  with  a  milky  hue,  most  pro- 
bably from  a  momentary  cause,  as  during  its  whole  course  its  waters  are 
generally  cleai*.  This  river  winds  a  good  way  through  a  very  beautiful 
country,  passing  the  old  seat  of  the  Glynns,  now  belonging  to  Lord  Vivian, 
where  it  curves  sweetly  beneath  fine  woods,  and  at  length  reaching  Lostwithiel, 
becomes,  a  little  below  the  bridge,  navigable  down  to  FoAvey  Harbour,  which  is 
its  estuaiy.  It  receives  many  tributary  streams,  and,  except  the  Tamar,  is  the 
largest  freshwater  stream  in  the  county,  with  a  course  of  about  thirty-six 
miles,  six  and  a  half  only  of  which  are  tidal.  It  was  once  navigable  above 
Lostwithiel. 

Nothing  could  exceed  the 
solitude  and  silence  of  these 
moors ;  for  in  the  course  of 
three  hours'  march  Ave  met 
no  human  being.  Here  and 
there  a  cottage  appeared, 
built  of  cob,  and  sometimes 
a  tree  near  it,  generally  very 
small.  The  gurgling  of  the 
Avater  over  the  stones  in  the 
bed  of  the  FoAvey  was  the 
only  sound  perceptible.  A  solitary  rough-coated  horse  or  coav  might  be  seen 
feeding  in  some  distant  insufficient  enclosure  of  turf,  or  rough  stones  piled  heed- 
lessly upon  each  other ;  Avhile  iioav  and  then,  toAvards  the  east,  a  rugged  peak  or 
tor,  "  horrent"  with  granite  crags  at  the  summit,  and  deeply  embrowned  with 
heath  below,  rose  OArer  an  inteiwening  eminence,  giving  significant  notice 
that  in  the  same  direction  lay  several  of  the  most  singular,  and,  for  the  most 
part,  unexplored  rocky  hills  of  the  county,  extending  almost  to  the  Tamar. 
Among  them  are  Caradon,  1,200  feet  high,  and  others  above  1,000  feet,  upon 
parts  of  which  it  might  be  supposed  Milton's  "Battle  of  the  Angels"  had 
occurred,  only  that  in  place  of  "  Avhole  promontories,"  they  had  hurled  granite 
cubes  at  each  other,  as  large  as  houses,  and  left  them  Avhcrc  they  fell.  The 
district  thus  alluded  to  is  one  of  a  savage  but  very  grand  character. 

We  crossed  the  FoAvey  river,  and  Avalking  over  much  uneven  and  rugged 
ground,  found  ourselves  enveloped  in  hills,  or  rather  tors,  every  summit  consist- 
ing of  pointed  granite  rocks,  with  vast  masses  of  the  same  material  strcAved 


54 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


^ 


upon  the  sides.  Passing  south  of  Hawke's  Tor,  and  leaving  that  of  Trewartha 
behind  to  the  north,  we  ascended  Kilmarth  Tor,  the  top  of  which  is  one  of  the 
most  singular  collections  of  granite 
rocks  that  can  be  imagined.  At  a  dis- 
tance, all  sorts  of  buildings  may  be 
fancied  erected  along  the  ridge,  but 
on  a  near  approach  nothing  but  vast 
masses  of  granite,  generally  cubical  in 
form,  meet  the  view.  Kilmarth  Hill 
is  1,200  feet  high,  and  the  prospect 
from  amid  the  gigantic  rocks,  that 
crown  it  as  with  a  diadem,  is  very 
fine  and  extensive.  The  rocks,  for 
which  it  is  most  remarkable,  are  re- 
presented in  the  annexed  engraving; 
but  the  entire  summit  is  a  singularly 
confused  heap  of  the  same  materials-, 
grotesquely,  irregularly  and  regularly 
shaped,  of  which  neither  pen  nor 
pencil  can  give  an  adequate  idea. 

Sharp  Point  Tor  is  directly  south  of  Kilmarth,  is  equal  to  it  in  height, 
and  on  the  south-east  side  has  a  curious  assemblage  of  rocks.  Immediately  to 
the  south  of  this  tor,  on  a  hill  of  less  elevation,  but  equally  wild  and  rocky, 
are  the  stones,  called  the  Hurlers,  said  to  be  men  transmuted  into  stones  for 
hurling  upon  the  sabbath-day.  They  are  a  singular  relic  of  antiquity,  consist- 
ing of  three  circles  of  upright  stones  ;  the  largest  circle  occupies  the  centre,  but 
the  three  would  be  bisected  by  a  line  drawn  through  all  their  centres.  Many 
of  the  stones  have  been  taken  away  for  use, — a  disgraceful  act,  when  it  is  consi- 
dered that  there  are  countless  thousands  of  the  same  kind  of  material  for  build- 
ing, or  for  gate-posts,  equally  at  hand,  though  not  perhaps  quite  so  shapely 
for  the  latter  purpose.  The  height  of  these  stones  at  a  mean  is  about  four 
feet.     Antiquaries  ascribe  to  the  Hurlers  a  druidical  origin. 

The  summits  of  all  the  hills,  over  a  large  district  hereabouts,  possess 
singular  appearances  of  the  same  nature  as  the  present.  Kilmarth  rocks, 
already  mentioned,  stand  upon  the  ridge  of  a  very  lofty  eminence,  and  seem, 
though  in  a  different  manner,  momentarily  ready  to  overreach  the  centre 
of  gravity,  and  fall  down  with  "  hideous  ruin  and  combustion."  The  Kilmarth 
rocks  are  not  near  so  high  as  those  of  the  Cheesewring.  Borlase  makes 
both  rock  deities  of  the  Druids,  but  ascribes  their  aspect  to  natural  causes, 
except  in  the  holes  upon  their  summits,  which  he  erroneously  considers 
artificial. 

But  the  hill  upon  which  the  celebrated  rocks  stand,  called  the  Cheese- 
wring,  has  been  passed  by;  it  is  north  of  that  on  which  the  Hurlers  appear, 


CORNWALL.  55 

and  south  of  Sharp  Tor.      The  following  is  a  sketch  of  this  singular  natural 
curiosity,  which  is  about  twenty-four  feet  high. 

The  hills  being  all  rocky,  and  the  storms  of  countless  ages  having  washed 
the  earth  from  between  crannies  on  their  summits,  have  left  them,  when  suffi- 
ciently firm,  to  stand  alone,  piled  in  the  fantastic  shapes  they  now  assume. 
The  granite  is  of  the  more  ancient  geological  formation,  yet  time  has  operated 
upon  it  in  many  places,  principally  through  the  agency  of  water,  decomposing, 
and  scooping  into  hollows,  certain  parts  of  the  solid  block  ;  two  of  these 
hollows  are  said  to  exist  on  the  summit  of  the  Cheesewring,  as  the  country 
people  have  named  the  pile,  from  its  resemblance  to  those  excellent  comestibles, 
placed  one  upon  another. 

These  enormous  rocks,  thus 
resting  upon  each  other  cheese- 
fashion,  overhang  their  base  so 
much  that  the  wonder  is  how 
they  sustain  their  position,  and 
withstand  the  shock  of  the  ele- 
ments. A  smaller  stone  than 
those  above  it  rests  upon  three 
or  four  others  of  still  smaller 
dimensions,  and  then  an  enor- 
mous stone  succeeds,  which,  cal- 
culating from  the  entire  height  of 

the  pile,  must  of  itself  measure  five  feet  thick,  by  ten  or  twelve  in  diameter. 
This  huge  mass  carries  two  others  of  a  less  size,  that  upon  the  summit  being 
considerably  smaller  than  the  one  beneath  it.  Standing  on  the  shady  side  of 
the  Cheesewring,  when  the  sun  was  shining,  the  imposing  character  of  the  pile 
was  peculiarly  striking,  not  unmingled  with  apprehension.  The  stones  which 
compose  this  singular  work  of  nature  are  much  rounded,  and  possess  none  of 
the  sharpness  of  angle  shewn  in  some  representations  of  the  subject.  Both 
the  Cheesewring  and  the  Hurlers  are  in  the  parish  of  Linkinhorne. 

The  parish  of  Linkinhorne  with  its  church,  situated  in  the  northern  division 
of  the  hundred  of  East,  four  miles  north  of  Callington,  in  the  manor  of 
Caradon  priory,  was  dedicated  to  St.  Meliora,  and  once  belonged  to  the  priory 
of  Launceston,  to  which  it  was  given  by  the  son  of  Henry  I.  There  is  a  free- 
school  here,  founded  by  Charles  Roberts  in  1710;  two-thirds  of  the  interest  of 
705^  14s.  Id.,  thus  devoted,  are  paid  to  a  schoolmaster,  and  the  remainder  to  a 
mistress  for  instructing  girls.  In  this  parish  there  lived  a  well  known  and 
singular  character,  born  about  the  commencement  of  the  eighteenth  century, 
Avhose  name  was  Daniel  Gum.  He  was  bred  up  to  the  trade  of  a  stone-cutter, 
and  was  early  distinguished  for  his  reserve  and  indulgence  in  meditative  habits. 
It  appears,  that,  through  the  bias  which  nature  gives  in  early  life  to  particular 
pursuits,  this  man,  without  instruction  or  means  to  obtain  information,  acquired 


56  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

a  love  of  reading  and  study.  He  applied  himself  closely  in  his  early  years  to 
mathematics,  for  his  progress  in  which  he  became  celebrated  throughout  the 
vicinity  of  his  residence.  The  student,  denominated  idle  by  the  world, 
is  in  reality  far  more  laboriously  and  honourably  employed  than  the  mass 
of  mankind.  Gum,  finding  that  his  labour  for  subsistence  engrossed  the 
larger  portion  of  his  time,  and  philosophically  reasoning,  that,  if  he  could 
curtail  his  necessities,  there  was  no  need  of  working  so  large  a  portion  of  the 
day  as  he  had  been  accustomed  to  do,  determined,  in  the  first  instance,  to  save 
himself  the  outlay  of  house-rent, — no  inconsiderable  portion  of  every  man's 
expenses,  let  his  station  be  what  it  may.  Not  far  from  the  Cheesewring,  in 
searching  for  stone  during  his  employment,  he  discovered  a  huge  slab  or  block 
of  granite,  lying  in  a  sloping  direction,  and  sufficiently  large,  if  he  could  exca- 
vate a  habitation  beneath  it,  to  give  him  a  retreat,  where  he  might  dispense 
with  the  onerous  outlay  of  house-rent,  and  at  the  same  time  find  that  place  for 
the  studious  seclusion,  in  which,  of  all  things,  he  most  desired  to  spend  his 
moments  of  leisure.  Accordingly  he  went  to  work  on  this  wild  heath,  and 
excavating  the  soil  beneath  the  block,  obtained  a  considerable  space,  the 
sides  of  which  he  built  up  to  support  the  stone  above,  with  walls  carefully 
cemented  in  lime,  making  a  hole  through  the  earth  at  one  end  of  the  stone, 
and  lining  it  with  the  same  material,  to  serve  him  for  a  chimney.  Let  none 
smile  in  derision  at  the  humble  habitation  of  the  studious  stone-cutter,  who 
was  thus  content  to  view  from  his  mountainous  abode  scenery  of  such  an 
extent,  so  grand  and  beautiful,  as  to  be  rarely  paralleled  even  in  this  island 
of  beautiful  landscape.  The  tors  and  rugged  eminences  of  Dartmoor  and 
of  Exmoor  were  seen  to  a  wide  extent  in  the  eastern  quarter ;  up  as  far  as 
Hartland  to  the  north;  Plymouth,  with  its  noble  heights  and  sound,  was 
plainly  visible  in  the  south ;  and  on  the  west,  the  hills  of  St.  Austell  and  Roche 
Rocks, — a  circumference  of  nearly  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  including  every 
object  that  could  delight  the  eye  or  feast  the  imagination.  Who  shall  say, 
while  this  humble  man  was  contemplating  such  a  sublime  view  from  the  dwelling 
despised  by  the  world,  what  feelings  of  gratitude  for  the  enjoyment  he  experi- 
enced at  the  sight  might  not  have  ascended  to  the  great  Creator  of  them !  In 
fine  weather,  by  day  and  night,  he  frequently  ascended  the  roof  of  his  lofty  and 
independent  dwelling,  and  gazed  in  silence  of  words,  but  not  of  thoughts,  upon 
nature  around,  or  upon  the  starry  heavens,  Avatching  the  motions  of  the 
brilliant  orbs  so  all-eloquent  to  the  sight.  Upon  the  surface  of  his  granite 
roof  this  extraordinary  man  carved  diagrams  with  his  chisel,  illustrative  of  his 
Euclid, — even  the  most  difficult  problems,— and  these  remained  to  show  the 
invincible  character  of  that  undefinable  impulse  which  leads  men  of  superior 
minds  to  conquer  all  obstacles  in  the  way  of  their  intellectual  advancement. 
Gum  was  never  known  to  leave  the  craggy  but  grand  eminence  upon  which  he 
dwelt,  even  to  attend  his  parish  church,  or  any  other  place  of  congregational 
worship.     Perhaps  his  adoration  was  humble,  and  silent,  and  deep, — pure  from 


CORNWALL. 


57 


the  heart,  and  elevated  in  the  sentiment, — that  communion  of  the  spirit  which 
passes  all  form  and  language.  Gum  died,  where  he  had  so  long  inhabited, 
in  his  native  parish ;  and,  while  the  harlot,  Fame,  trumpeted  forth  the  praises 
of  slaves  and  parasites,  departed — 

"  The  world  unknowing,  by  the  world  unknown." 


In  proceeding  to  St.  Clare,  locally  St.  Cleer,  we  passed  the  singular 
memorial,  called  the  "  Other  Half  Stone,"  a  granite  pillar,  resembling  part  of 
a  stone  cross,  the  upper  end  fractured  just  where  it  might  be  presumed 
the  transverse  portion  had  been  attached.  It  is  nearly  eight  feet  in  height, 
and  ornamented  as  in  the  above  illustration.  The  probability  that  the 
portion  of  the  stone  which  was  missing  might  be  discovered,  induced  a 
search,  and  in  digging  the  surrounding  ground  a  second  fragment  was  met 
with,  the  fractured  part  of  which  did  not  fit  the  shaft.  This  fragment  bears 
an  inscription  in  Latin, — "  Doniert  entreats  prayers  for  his  soul."*  Doniert 
is  supposed  to  have  been  Dungerth,  king  of  Cornwall,  who  was  drowned  in 
the  year  872. 

*  "  Doniert  rogavit  pro  anima."  Cornwall  possessed  several  of  these  inscribed  sepulchral  stones, 
which  were  recently  in  existence.  At  St.  Clement's,  near  Truro,  one  served  for  a  gate-post,  having 
cut  upon  it  the  words,  "  Isniocus  Vitalis  filius  Torrid."  Another,  removed  from  its  original  site  at 
the  cross-roads  near  Fowey,  and  flung  into  a  ditch,  is  inscribed,  "  Hie  jacet  Cirusius  Cunowori  filius." 
Between  the  churches  of  Gulval  and  Madron  a  stone  serves  as  a  foot-bridge,  with  the  inscription, 
"  Cnegumi  fil  Enans."  Enans  was  the  first  king  of  Armorica,  or  Brittany.  At  Worthy  Vale, 
near  Camelford,  a  stone  was  taken  up  from  serving  as  a  foot-bridge,  and  preserved  by  one  of  the 
Ladies  Falmouth,  having  upon  it  the  words,  "  Catin  hie  jacet  filius  Magari."  In  St.  Blazey  parish, 
where  many  human  remains  were  discovered,  there  were  columnar  inscriptions  of  a  similar  character  ; 
and  one  near  Michel,  which  read,  "  Ruani  hie  jacet."  A  square  stone  found  in  Camborn  was  placed 
against  the  church,  by  order  of  the  late  Lord  de  Dunstanville,  inscribed  "  Leuiut  jusit  hec  altare  pro 
anima  sua."     Leuiut  is  an  old  Cornish  name. 

I 


58 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


We  now  hurried  forward  to  St.  Clare.  The 
church,  built  of  granite,  is  a  handsome  structure, 
consisting  of  two  aisles  and  a  nave.  There  is 
a  fine  zigzag  Saxon  door  on  the  north  side  ;  the 
windows,  differing  from  each  other  in  pattern, 
make  it  probable  they  were  donations,  in  which 
the  donors  consulted  their  own  taste  ;  they  con- 
tain some  painted  glass.  The  tower  is  one  hun- 
dred feet  high,  and  admirably  proportioned. 

The  hamlet  consists  of  only  a  few  mean  build- 
ings, and,  with  the  church,  stands  upon  a  slope 
facing  the  north.  From  the  valley  beneath,  a  hill 
rises  with  great  regularity  of  outline,  through 
which  runs  a  murmuring  brook.  Upon  this  hill 
stands  the  Trevethy  Stone,  at  a  spot  visible  over 
a  large  circumjacent  country. 

Having  walked  round  the  church-yard,  we 
were  induced  to  seek  a  temporary  rest  in  a  hum- 
ble inn,  the  sign  of  which  we  do  not  recollect, 
but  there  is  only  one  place  of  the  kind  in  the 
church-town,  and  its  description  may  serve  for 
that  of  its  class  throughout  the  county.  We 
entered  a  room  about  fifteen  feet  square,  through 
a  passage  very  neat  and  clean.  Upon  the  left, 
on  entering,  was  a  large  chimney,  or,  more  cor- 
rectly, hearth,  as  the  term  was  understood  by 
our  forefathers.  This  chimney  place  was  at  least 
six  feet  wide,  and  five  high.  In  the  back  of  its 
dingy  recess  were  numerous  hooks  for  hanging 
pots  and  kettles.  A  trivet,  over  a  small  turf  fire, 
sustained  an  earthen  pan  of  milk,  the  richer  part 
of  which  was  coae;ulatin<>'  into  that  unrivalled 
delicacy,  called  "  clouted  cream," — matchless 
with  coffee,  fruit,  or  in  its  own  simple  character, 
— a  delicacy,  which  they  who  know  not  are  to  be 
pitied,  and  they  who  do  know  have  no  moi'e  to 
acquire  in  the  knowledge  of  a  perfect  condiment. 
They  place  the  milk  in  a  vessel,  with  a  large 
surface  exposed  to  the  air.  Some  use  a  brass 
pan,  but  in  general  an  earthen  vessel  is  preferred,  in  the  shape  of  the  sec- 
tion of  an  inverted  cone,  the  wide  part  upwards.  Upon  this  is  laid  a  cover, 
sustained  by  two  upright  pieces  of  wood,  so  as  to  make  it  an  inclined 
plane,   that    the    whole    surface    of   the    milk    may   be    exposed    to   the   air 


CORNWALL.  59 

between  this  lid  and  the  edge  of  the  vessel.  The  milk  is  only  suffered  to 
simmer.  Experience  dictates  the  time  it  should  remain  over  the  fire,  which 
is  seldom  more  than  two  or  three  hours ;  it  is  then  removed,  and  stands  for 
twelve  or  fourteen  hours  in  a  cool  place,  when  the  cream  is  taken  off  for  use 
in  its  natural  state,  or  to  be  made  into  butter.  In  the  last  case,  the  operation 
is  sj)eedily  performed  by  the  hand  in  a  wooden  bowl,  simply  by  moving  the 
cream  round  in  one  direction.  The  quantity  of  butter  thus  produced  is  a  little 
less  than  that  given  by  raw  cream  from  the  same  quantity  of  milk,  but  then 
the  latter  is  ameliorated,  and  will  not  so  readily  turn  sour.  This  milk  is  a 
favourite  beverage,  with  or  without  the  addition  of  water,  among  the  farm 
people  and  servants,  who  will  not  touch  skimmed  milk  from  its  disposition  to 
acidity.  The  most  delicate  cream  is  not  obtainable  from  cattle  fed  on  the 
richest  pasturage ;  it  is  destitute  of  the  flavour  acquired  from  herbage  sweet 
and  less  gross,  which  is  cropped  by  the  beautiful  Devonshire  cattle,  frequently 
intermingled  with  plants  peculiar  to  the  west.  Thus  the  honey  gathered  near 
the  Land's  End,  from  the  rich  heaths  and  wild  flowers,  is  preferable  to  any 
other  in  England.  Spenser  knew  of  this  delicacy,  perhaps  through  Sir  Walter 
Raleigh,  when  he  wrote — 

"  She  would  often  call  him  home, 
And  give  him  curds  and  clouted  cream." 

This  cream  is  peculiar  to  Cornwall,  Devonshire,  and  Brittany,  no  doubt 
carried  over  by  the  Cornish  Britons,  who  settled  in  that  part  of  France.  The 
names  of  Trevanion,  Carhayes,  Grylls,  and  Scobell  too  are  still  found  in  Brit- 
tany as  in  Cornwall,  annexed  to  individuals  or  localities  ;  and  many  of  the 
habits  of  the  Cornish  may  no  doubt  be  traced  there  yet  in  the  same  manner. 

At  the  side  of  the  fire-place  stood  a  "  settle,"  as  it  is  called  in  this  county, 
or  a  large  wooden-backed  seat ;  a  table,  nearly  seven  feet  long,  with  a  corre- 
sponding form  on  one  side,  and  the  window  seat,  nearly  as  long,  on  the  other, 
a  few  chairs,  and  a  clock  that  "  ticked  behind  the  door,"  completed  the  furni- 
ture of  the  room,  not  forgetting  the  well-loaded  dresser.  Here  we  saw  baking 
upon  the  hearth,  a  mode  as  old,  perhaps,  as  the  days  of  the  patriarchs.  A 
clean  iron  plate  was  laid  in  the  capacious  recess,  which  last  permitted  several 
culinary  operations  to  proceed  together ;  upon  this  plate  the  loaf  was  placed, 
and  an  iron  kettle  reversed  over  it,  upon  which  the  turf  embers  were  heaped. 
The  bread  thus  baked  was  excellent. 

On  quitting  this  humble  abode,  one  of  the  inmates  conducted  us  to  the  road 
by  which  the  well  of  St.  Clare  was  to  be  found,  and  also  pointed  out  the 
distant  path  to  the  Trevethy  Stone.  The  well  of  St.  Clare  is  situated  on  a 
descent.  The  end  wall  only  remains  erect,  covered  with  ivy  and  overshadowed 
by  an  ash  tree,  as  the  engraver  has  here  represented  them. 

The  stones  which  lie  in  front  are  massy,  and  consist  of  groins  and  ribs  be- 
longing to  the  roof,  cornices,  and  portions  of  the  mouldings  of  a  window. 


60 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


The  destruction  of  this 
pretty  little  chapel  must 
have  taken  place  long  ago  ; 
probably  in  the  time  of 
Henry  VIII.  This  trans- 
lucent spring  still  supplies 
the  neighbourhood  from  its 
tranquil  wave,  and  is  looked 
upon  with  veneration.  As 
we  stooped  to  quaff  the  de- 
licious water,  we  thought 
that  if  her  saintship's  character  had  been  as  transparent  and  lustrous  as  the 
water  of  her  well,  she  merited  canonization.  The  lady  died  in  1252,  at  70 
years  of  age.  In  1294  it  is  proved  that  the  church  was  rated  and  endowed, 
and  perhaps  the  well  chapel  was  erected  about  the  same  time,  or  both  that 
and  the  church  between  1252  and  1294. 

-Descending  further  into  the  valley,  and  coming  upon  an  open  space,  we 
soon  ascended  a  well-paved  path  between  hedges ;  and  arriving  at  a  gate,  dis- 
covered near  it,  in  a  field  of  wheat,  the  object  for  which  we  were  looking.  It 
is  the  largest  Cromlech  now  in  existence  in  this  country.  The  view  of  it 
surprises,  from  the  magnitude  of  the  upper  stone  or  slab,  and  its  adjustment 
upon  the  imposts;  rendered  still  more  wonderful  from  the  supposition  that 
the  mechanical  powers  were  unknown  at  the  time  it  was  erected.  Older  than 
the  inscribed  solitary  stones  of  which  we  have  before  spoken,  and  belonging 
to  an  order  of  sepulchral  monuments  much  more  complicated  in  the  con- 
struction, we  become  more  anxious  to  acquire  the  knowledge  respecting  it 
which  we  are  at  the  same  time  conscious  we  can  never  attain.  In  the  Cornish 
tongue  Trev,  or  Tre,  is  a  house,  and  veth  a  grave ;  hence  "  Trevethy "  is 
the  "  house-grave."  There  are  six  granite  imposts  and  two  parallel  slabs,  one 
of  which  is  much  smaller  than  the  other ;  both  are  placed  in  a  direction  from 
east  to  west  in  the  manner  of  an  inclined  plane,  the  most  elevated  part  to 
the  east.  We  had  no  means  of  ascertaining  the  size  of  the  upper  horizontal 
stone  ;  but  take  its  length  to  be  fourteen  or  fifteen  feet,  the  thickness  fifteen 
inches,  and  the  breadth  nine  or  ten  feet.  Some  give  the  length  sixteen  feet, 
the  breadth  ten,  and  the  thickness  fourteen  inches.  This  enormous  mass  rests 
upon  the  points  of  the  imposts,  seven  or  eight  feet  from  the  ground,  and  bears 
upon  five  of  them,  one  having  so  much  of  the  weight  that  its  apex  seems 
slightly  cracked.  There  is  a  small  hole  at  the  higher  end  of  the  upper  slab. 
The  middle  impost  at  the  eastern  end  is  deficient  in  the  lower  corner,  as  if 
it  had  been  cut  away  to  afford  admission  under  the  inferior  slab  within  side. 
This  may  be  observed  in  the  following  representations  of  the  eastern  end 
and  southern  side.  The  hill  rising  behind  it  in  the  engraving,  half  obscured 
bv  clouds,  is  Caradon. 


CORNWALL. 


61 


It  was  impossible  not  to  feel,  while  we  were  covered  by  the  shadow  of  a 
monument  erected  for  some  mighty  chief  of  the  past,  that  "forty  centuries" 

were  darkening  over  us.  We  were  before  a  name- 
less tomb,  grey  with  the  lapse  of  time,  speaking  out 
of  "  the  dark  night  of  ages  "  a  daily-repeated  lesson. 
How  true  are  the  words  of  Cowley  : — 

"  To  things  immortal  time  can  do  no  wrong, 
And  that  which  never  is  to  die  for  ever  must  be  young !" 

The  Trevethy  Stone  was  erected  upon  a  cairn,  or 
pile  of  stones,  collected  for  the  purpose,  which  we 
were  sorry  to  see  was  diminishing,  in  order  to  add  a 
foot  or  two  of  ground  to  a  large  corn-field ;  thus 
endangering  the  foundation  of  the  monument. 

There  was  something  attractive  about  the  inter- 
mixture of  the  wild  and  cultivated  near  St.  Clare. 
Notwithstanding  the  blocks  of  granite  scattered  over 
the  land,  the  ground  was  rich  in  flowers.  Purple 
and  gold  tints  prevailed  in  the  heath  and  furze  blos- 
soms ;  the  last  filling  the  atmosphere  with  a  perfume 
like  apricots.  Beds  of  camomile  exhaled  an  agreeable 
odour,  covering  many  spots  on  the  hill-side  upon  the 
way  to  the  town  of  Liskeard,  distant  only  two  or 
three  miles.  The  air  was  clear  and  soft;  the  blue 
serene  above  unsullied.  A  lark  soaring  far  over  our 
heads,  poured  forth  its  gushing  notes  as  if  its  throat 
would  break :  the  solitude  of  that  moment  seemed 
to  be  worth  all  the  society  upon  earth.  The  hedge- 
rows and  trim  square  fields  of  our  richer  agricultural 
counties,  crib  and  cabin  the  mind  in  comparison  with 
open  scenery  of  this  character,  where  the  spirit 
expatiates  without  limit,  and  we  seem  free  as  the 
invigorating  air  Ave  inhale. 


: 


62 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


We  posted  from  Liskeard  to  Callington  :  the  road  presenting  a  succession  of 
the  most  formidable  hills  that  ever  troubled  weary  horses.  About  half  way 
we  observed,  on  the  left  side  of  the  road,  the  little  church  of  St.  Ive,  of 
which  the  Duke  of  Cornwall  is  patron ;  it  once  belonged  to  Tavistock  Abbey, 
and  had  been  a  preceptory  of  the  knights  hospitallers,  restored  by  Queen 
Mary  in  1575.  The  hamlets  of  Cadson  and  Diner- 
dake  are  in  this  parish.  The  manor  was  once  the 
property  of  the  Killigrews,  from  whom  it  came,  by 
marriage,  to  the  Wreys.  Mr.  W.  Morshed,  by  his 
will,  in  1739,  gave  his  lands  of  Keason,  here,  for  the 
education  of  poor  children ;  but  his  bequest  has  never 
been  carried  into  effect.  Several  manor  houses  are 
become  the  dwellings  of  farmers ;  among  them  is  Ap- 
pledorford,  once  belonging  to  the  Trevenor  family. 
The  church  of  St.  Ive  is  a  handsome  edifice,  with 
windows  of  elaborate  tracery,  and  a  fine  tower  of 
twelve  pinnacles ;  four  at  the  angles  and  eight  sur- 
mounting the  buttresses,  of  a  better  proportion  and 
presenting  a  neater  appearance  than  most  edifices  so 
superfluously  decorated. 

The  houses  in  Callington  are  principally  disposed  in  one  main  street,  tolerably 
broad.  Near  the  church,  on  the  north  side,  a  short  street  leads  to  the  Laun- 
ceston  road,  which  town  is  distant  about  ten  miles.  This  road,  soon  after 
leaving  Callington,  and  passing  Kadmore  mine  on  the  left  hand,  and  Kit  Hill 
upon  the  right,  having  beneath  it  the  Holm  Bush  mines,  goes  through  a 
country  well  cultivated  and  in  some  places  highly  picturesque.  In  one  spot, 
between  four  and  five  miles  from  Callington,  the  road  descends  into  a  well- 
wooded  valley ;  after  passing,  upon  the  right-hand,  Whiteford  House,  charm- 
ingly situated,  the  seat  of  Sir  John  Call.  In  this  valley  the  Inny  flows  on  its 
way  to  the  Tamar,  into  which  it  falls  opposite  a  place  called  Inny  Foot.  The 
Inny  rises  in  the  moors  near  Davidstow.  On  the  opposite  side  of  this  stream 
a  very  steep  hill  is  ascended,  and  upon  the  summit  stands  a  small  inn,  from 
which  the  distance  to  Launceston  is  five  miles. 

Callington  has  been  a  market-town  since  the  reign  of  Henry  III.,  when  it 
belonged  to  the  family  of  Trevenor ;  and  it  possessed,  from  a  remote  period, 
the  grant  of  an  annual  fair.  It  was  made  a  borough  by  Queen  Elizabeth,  but 
was  disfranchised  under  the  Reform  Act.  The  town  and  parish  have  increased 
in  population,  owing  to  the  activity  of  the  mines  in  the  vicinity.  It  is 
governed  by  a  portreeve,  annually  elected.  There  is  no  edifice  in  Callington 
worthy  of  notice,  except  the  church,  which  has  three  aisles ;  the  centre  aisle 
being  very  lofty.  It  was  built  about  1460,  by  Nicolas  de  Ashton,  avIio  with 
his  wife  and  family  are  interred  here ;  their  effigies  yet  remain  engraved  upon 
a   brass   plate.      There   is   an    alabaster   monument   in  the  church  to  Lord 


CORNWALL. 


63 


Willoughby  tie  Broke,  lord  of  the  manor,  who  died  about  1502,  being  then 
steward  of  the  duchy  of  Cornwall.  This  church  is  under  the  same  presentment 
as  that  of  Southhill,  and  is  properly  a  chapel  of  that  parish.  In  the  church-yard 
is  an  ancient  octagonal  stone  cross,  or  rather  the  shaft,  carrying  a  representa- 
tion of  the  crucifixion.  Callington,  where  King  Arthur  is  said  to  have  had  a 
palace  and  kept  his  court,  is  five  miles  from  Newbridge  upon  the  Tamar. 
The  road  to  Tavistock,  which  crosses  this  bridge,  lies  along  the  side  of  Hengist 
Down.  The  level  it  takes  without  approaching  near  the  summit,  the  highest 
part  of  which  is  Kit  Hill,  before  named,  affords  one  of  the  finest  views  in  the 
kingdom.  Kit  Hill  summit  consists  of  granite  in  massive  craggs ;  schistose 
rocks  repose  against  the  base,  and,  upon  this  summit,  the  mine  has  been  worked, 
the  quartz  discovered  in  which  was  impregnated  with  wolfram.  The  country 
commanded  from  this  elevation  is  of  immense  extent,  including  nearly  the 
whole  course  of  the  Tamar,  the  sea  terminating  the  horizon  southwards,  both 
in  Plymouth  Sound,  and  still  farther  west  towards  Looe.  Dartmoor  Toi's 
limit  the  prospect  to  the  eastward,  while  northward  it  appears  illimitable. 
Westward  the  tors  and  hills  about  Caradon  are  seen,  one  beyond  the  other, 
all  appearing  spread  like  a  rich  carpet  of  Persia's  loom  underneath  the  feet. 

Taking  the  road  from  Callington  to  Saltash,  for  a  short  distance,  and  then 
turning  down  a  lane  on  the  northern  side,  we  arrived  where  a  second  lane 
branched  off  to  the  right  hand,  and  two  or  three  cottages  nestled  in  a  hol- 
low. Near  these  is  a  farm-house,  close  to  the  back  of  which  is  situated 
Dupath  Well.  The  building  is  entire ;  the  walls  and  roof  are  of  granite,  the 
roof  ribbed  and  groined  with  the  same  material.  A  spring  of  very  pure  water 
rises  near  the  door,  and  is 


received  in  a  stone  vessel, 
overgrown  with  briars. 
Overflowing  the  granite 
trough,  at  the  edge  of 
which  it  rises,  the  water 
runs  into  the  little  chapel, 
inundating  the  floor,  and 
then  flows  out  at  the  end, 
under  a  small  window 
worked  in  the  stone.  Fur- 
ther on  the  stream  is  dam- 
med up,  and  broods  of 
ducks  and  geese  find  solace 
in  the  water  once  so  re- 
nowned.     The  spot  is  a  very  pretty  one,   though   encumbered  and  defaced 


-r-'^m 


. •    J.WAREEiEU 


with  all  kinds  of  husbandry  rubbish.  Several  green  shady  paths  meet  here, 
wet  from  the  neglected  water,  once  the  routes  of  pilgrims  to  visit  this  storied 
and  pellucid  spring. 


64  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

Deeply  shrouded  in  the  gloom  of  departed  time  is  one  of  the  histories  con- 
nected with  Dupath  Spring.  It  was  the  site  of  a  fierce  combat,  the  scene  of 
heroic  enterprise  and  deeds  of  noble  daring,  for  a  lady's  love.  It  is  well  some 
monument  yet  remains,  replacing  that  which  she,  the  disconsolate,  raised  to 
bear  witness  how  nobly  and  how  well  her  knight  had  combatted  in  her  behalf. 
It  was  at  Dupath  Spring  that  he  met  his  rival,  who  was  not  the  beloved  of  her 
for  whom  he  came  to  challenge  the  mortal  combat.  He  had  neither  known 
her  in  that  verdure  of  youth,  when  if  an  attachment  of  the  heart  be  formed,  it 
hangs  like  the  cherished  dream  of  some  lost  delight  upon  the  spirit,  only  to 
strengthen  itself  by  recurrence,  and  to  deepen  the  sadness  of  the  recollection. 
Grotlieb  was  a  Saxon,  wealthy  indeed,  and  sufficiently  proud,  while  from  his 
rank  he  was  entitled  to  ask  the  daughter  of  the  noblest  baron  in  the  land ;  but 
he  was  not  qualified  with  the  "  prevailing  gentle  art,"  which  is  sovereign  in 
winning  the  love  of  woman. 

Sir  Colan  had  known  the  lady  in  his  earlier  years,  but  had  presumed 
no  farther  than  to  be  satisfied  he  was  viewed  with  eyes  of  strong  partiality. 
In  possession  of  little  wealth, — which  circumstance  Avas  sufficient  to  render 
hopeless  the  consent  of  the  father  of  his  mistress, — after  exchanging  vows 
of  constancy  with  her,  he  went  abroad,  for  the  purpose  of  seeking  both 
fortune  and  reputation,  through  the  perils  and  hazards  of  war,  according  to 
the  custom  of  the  time.  Sir  Colan  obtained  both  fortune  and  reputation, 
returning  home  full  of  hope  in  the  smile  of  her  whom  he  loved  better  than 
life.  On  his  arrival,  he  was  informed  that  the  hand  of  his  beloved  mistress 
had  been  solicited  of  her  father  by  Gotlieb,  and  that  it  had  not  been  re- 
fused, although  the  maiden  expressed  her  repugnance  to  the  marriage.  There 
was  only  the  alternative  of  challenging  his  adversary  to  prove  his  right,  ac- 
cording to  ancient  practice ;  and  this  alternative  was  embraced  by  Sir  Colan 
with  joy.  The  time  was  fixed,  the  place  of  the  combat  was  appointed  near 
Dupath  Spring,  far  from  the  eyes  of  the  multitude ;  for  few  were  those  per- 
mitted by  the  consent  of  the  combatants  to  be  present.  The  contest  was  fierce 
and  long ;  for  both  were  skilful  in  the  use  of  arms.  Sir  Colan  received  the  first 
wound,  which  rather  seemed  to  inspirit  than  discourage  him.  As  if  nerved 
with  fresh  energy,  he  jiressed  his  adversary  so  vigorously  that  he  inflicted 
upon  him  a  severe  wound,  and  by  a  second  effort  drove  his  sword  between  the 
joints  of  his  armour,  and  slew  him  on  the  spot.  He  was  not  himself  unscathed ; 
his  wound  soon  rankled,  and  the  more  from  his  impatience  to  make  his  mistress 
his  own  before  the  altar.  This  impatience  retarded  that  which  a  more  enduring 
disposition  might  have  secured.  Day  by  day  his  danger  increased.  At  last 
he  was  informed  that  death  must  soon  be  upon  him.  They  solicited  him  to 
send  for  an  ecclesiastic  without  delay  to  shrive  his  soul,  and  urged  him  to  forget 
earth  in  the  prospect  before  him  of  soon  ceasing  to  be  a  partaker  in  the  hopes 
or  disappointments  of  the  living.  The  wounded  knight  smiled,  but  made  no 
other  reply  than  that  which  has  been  so  beautifully  put  into  his  mouth,  in 


CORNWALL.  65 

verse,  by  an  elegant  writer,*  whom  we  have  already  quoted,  but  who  gives  the 
knight  the  name  of  Siward, — 


» 


"  '  Bring  me,'  he  said,  '  the  steel  I  wore 
When  Dupath's  spring  was  dark  with  gore, 
The  spear  I  raised  for  Githa's  glove, 
Those  trophies  of  ray  wars  and  love.' 

"  Upright  he  sate  within  his  hed, 
The  helm  on  his  unyielding  head  ; 
Sternly  he  leaned  upon  his  spear- 
He  knew  his  passing  hour  was  near. 

"  '  Githa,  thine  hand !'     How  wild  that  cry ! 
How  fiercely  glared  his  vacant  eye ! 
'  Sound,  Herald  !'  was  his  shout  of  pride — 
'  Hear  how  the  noble  Siward  died  !' " 

Leaving  a  spot  consecrated  by  this  touching  story,  and  passing  along  a 
narrow  road,  eastward  of  the  well,  we  came  at  once  upon  a  cottage  under- 
neath the  brow  of  a  green  hill.  One  of  the  finest  thorn  trees  we  ever 
saw,  grew  only  a  few  yards  in  its  front,  and  at  the  root  of  this  thorn  gushed 
forth  a  spring  of  the  purest  water,  received  in  what  had  evidently  been  a  stone 
font  of  antique  workmanship ;  the  overflowing  water  afterwards  ran  down  a 
small  declivity.  On  one  side  of  the  spring  stood  a  young  woman,  washing 
some  articles  of  linen,  comely,  and  for  her  station  well  dressed ;  so  that,  in 
combination  with  the  scenery  and  the  cloudless  sky,  we  almost  fancied  our- 
selves to  be  in  the  south  of  Europe.  Inquiring  our  way  from  one  of  the 
sweetest  rural  pictures  we  ever  beheld,  to  the  banks  of  the  Tamar,  we  were 
directed  to  a  path  "  about  a  gun-shot  off,"  rather  a  singular  description  of  dis- 
tance for  a  female  to  adopt ;  perhaps  she  was  the  wife  or  daughter  of  a  game- 
keeper or  poacher,  and  accustomed  to  the  term.  We  entered  a  coppice,  and 
quickly  found  ourselves  in  the  right  road.  We  had  not  gone  far  before  we 
came  upon  the  workings  of  an  abandoned  silver  mine.  "  A  wild  sort  of  an 
adventure  this  undertaking,  friend,"  we  observed  to  a  man  who  was  passing ; 
in  allusion  to  the  abandonment  of  what,  evidently  from  the  works,  had  been 
begun  with  great  spirit. 

"  Wild  enough,  to  think  of  finding  silver  that  would  pay  them  here,"  said 
he  whom  we  addressed. 

"  It  was  a  London  speculation,  I  suppose  ?" 

"  I  believe  so ;  I  have  heard  all  sorts  of  stories  about  these  kind  of  things, 
when  people  did  not  know  what  to  do  with  their  money.  They  say  silver  urns 
were  shown  about  London  as  made  of  the  silver  out  of  some  mines  here ;  and 
where  there  is  a  chance  of  making  money  a  Londoner  is  never  behind-hand." 

"  Then  you  think  there  was  no  chance  of  any  thing  good  turning  up  here  ?" 

*  The  Rev.  Mr.  Hawker. 
K 


66 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


"  I  must  not  say  that;  there  is  the  proverb,  you  know — '  Hingston  down 
well  y'wrought,  is  worth  London  town  dearly  bought ;"  but  I  believe  expe- 
rienced miners  thought  the  same  as  I  do  about  the  matter.  Whether  this  was 
a  London  or  a  Cornish  adventure,  I  do  not  know  ;  but  I  do  know  some  London 
ones,  not  many  miles  off,  where  money  was  plenty  at  first,  and  there  were  some 
that  did  not  lose  by  the  loss.  Old  miners  could  tell  many  stories  about  these 
undertakings."  Here  our  conversation  terminated,  our  informant  passing  off 
by  a  different  road  from  that  which  we  were  going. 

We  quickly  reached  a  village  called  Metherell,  and  came  in  sight  of  the  Tamar, 
winding  far  below  among  dense  woods ;  and  crossing  a  field,  in  which  was  a 
triangular  building  that  at  a  distance  looked  like  a  church  tower,  we  found 
ourselves  at  the  back  of  the  old  mansion  of  Cothele,  buried  in  woods  of  oak, 
ash,  and  chestnut,  a  delightful  seclusion.  The  house  stands  a  considerable  height 
above  the  Tamar,  yet  below  the  brow  of  the  hill  at  the  foot  of  which  that  river 
glides  so  gently  and  stealthily  along.     This  ancient  embattled  house  is  built 

round  a  quadrangle,   one 


side  of  which  is  occupied 
by  the  hall,  hung  with  old 
arms,  armour,  and  stags' 
horns ;  one  figure  in  com- 
plete mail  stands  at  the 
upper  end.  Heads  of  an- 
telopes and  deer  recall  the 
chase  of  ancient  times.  A 
massy  wooden  table  and 
form  are  placed  across  the 
window,  which  contains  a 
fragment  or  two  of  painted 
glass.  On  the  north  side 
of  the  house,  there  is  a 
square  tower,  in  which  the 
apartments  are  larger  than 
elsewhere.  A  door,  in  the 
north-west  angle  of  the 
hall,  leads  to  the  interior 
apartments,  which  are  fur- 
nished after  the  fashion 
of  the  time  of  Elizabeth. 
Cabinets  of  antique  make;  old  music  books,  one  of  which  bears  date  1556; 
brass  dogs  on  the  hearths,  such  as  were  used  before  coal  fires  were  introduced ; 
carved  worm-eaten  chairs,  and  beds  of  antique  fabrication;  with  furniture  ready 
to  fall  to  pieces  from  age,  stand  exactly  as  they  stood  when  tenanted  by  stiff- 
ruffled  ladies  and  gentlemen.    Some  of  the  rooms  are  hung  with  tapestry.  One 


CORNWALL.  67 

contains  the  history  of  Romulus  and  Remus,  exceedingly  well  executed.  The 
tapestried  rooms  puzzle  the  stranger,  from  their  having  no  appearance  of  a  door, 
the  tapestry  being  uplifted  to  enter  them.  Some  carving  on  the  cabinets  is  well 
worthy  a  close  inspection,  for  its  beautiful  execution.  In  all  parts  of  this  old 
mansion  there  are  objects  exceedingly  interesting  to  the  lover  of  antiquities. 
Drinking  vessels,  china  and  earthenware,  various  domestic  utensils,  and  many 
things  of  which  it  would  puzzle  a  modern  domestic  to  divine  the  purpose, — 

"  Brown  floors  below  of  polished  oak, 
And  ancient  tables  round  about, 
Of  Noah's  broker,  perhaps,  bespoke, 
When  the  ark's  family  went  out." 

There  is  an  old  chapel,  the  painted  windows  of  which  have  been  injured.  This 
is  a  great  curiosity,  and  highly  interesting  from  its  exhibition  of  the  simple 
places  of  worship  in  the  domestic  architecture  of  the  past  time.  Still  remaining 
attached  to  this  chapel  is  the  altar  furniture ;  on  a  part  of  which  the  figure  of 
the  prophet  Jeremiah  is  embroidered,  perhaps  by  some  "ancient"  of  the  fami- 
lies of  Cothele  or  Edgecombe.  There  is  in  addition  a  set  of  the  twelve  apostles, 
worked  upon  purple  velvet  sprinkled  with  gold. 

We  were  once  surprised  by  evening  in  those  rooms, —  long  years  have  since 
passed, — the  impression  was  striking.*  The  moon  wras  up,  the  harvest  moon; 
and  the  "  tales  of  other  times "  seemed  about  to  be  realized.  The  tapestry 
looked  alive,  as  the  moonbeams,  streaming  through  the  narrow  windows,  par- 
tially but  dimly  lit  the  space  within.  We  looked  out  upon  the  black  dense 
woods  from  one  of  the  apartments,  conjecturing  what  might  have  been  the 
personal  appearance  of  those  who  had  been  the  inhabitants  of  that  house. 
Many  a  fair  arm  had  rested  upon  the  same  stone  window  sill ;  and  many  a  fair 

*  Perfectly  illustrated  in  the  lines  : — 

"  Twilight  comes  on,  and  wraps  in  gloom 

The  rooms  now  changed  to  ghostly  places; 
Windows,  like  loopholes  in  a  tomb, 
Make  spectres  seem  the  fairest  faces. 

"  The  tapestry  frowns,  the  owlets  scream, 
Each  footstep  yields  unearthly  sounds, 
Mirth  dies,  the  red  stars  dimly  gleam, 
Unbodied  beings  go  their  rounds. 

"  The  armour  in  the  hall  is  moving, 

The  helm-plumes  wave,  and  from  their  cases 
Swords  seem  to  start ;  all  clearly  proving 
How  senses  sometimes  quit  their  places. — 

"  And  man,  creation's  whim,  the  wonder 
And  god  of  his  own  vain  condition, 
Becomes,  before  no  voice  of  thunder, 
The  craven  worm  of  superstition  !" 


68  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

face  gazed  from  thence  upon  the  same  moon  and  the  same  woods.  In  the 
recesses  of  the  same  oriels,  the  painted  light  colouring  their  features,  the 
lovers  of  ages  gone  had  whispered  soft  things  together.  Stately  dames  had 
trod  those  chambers,  and  what  was  then  deemed  the  pomp  and  pageantry  of 
rank  had  fluttered  in  the  full  sense  of  all  but  their  own  nothingness.  Every 
thing  now  was  silent,  deserted,  dead: — where  did  the  missing  ones  sojourn  ? 
"  Echo  answered,  Where  ?" 

Cothele  was  the  seat  of  the  family  of  that  name  until  the  reign  of  Edward 
III.,  when  Hilaria  de  Cothele,  heiress  of  William  de  Cothele,  married  William 
Edgcombe,  or,  modernised,  "  Edgcumbe,"  and  the  house  came  to  the  present 
family.  Connected  with  Cothele  as  Lord  Mount  Edgcumbe  must  feel  himself, — 
very  few  individuals  in  England  remaining  in  possession  of  a  family  residence, 
unaltered  for  so  long  a  date, — he  may  well  take  a  pride  in  its  maintenance. 

But  the  interest  of  Cothele  is  not  confined  to  the  antique  mansion  itself;  the 
woods,  which  go  down  from  the  house  to  the  river,  contain  some  noble  trees. 
The  chestnuts  are  of  enormous  bulk ;  and  the  largest,  now  cut  down,  were  the 
astonishment  of  all  who  saw  them, — being  above  a  thousand  years  old,  and 
flinging  out  gigantic  limbs  that  challenged  the  proudest  oaks  for  size  and  pic- 
turesque beauty.  It  is  interesting  to  contemplate  this  mighty  senility  among 
the  ancients  of  the  forest,  when  previously  led  into  a  certain  train  of  associ- 
ations. Amid  the  grandeur  of  their  decay  every  gigantic  limb  looks  great 
truths.  We  had  just  left  the  dwelling  of  other  days,  and  stood  under  the  very 
boughs  that,  still  alive,  had  cast  their  shadows  upon  those  who  inhabited  the 
desolate  chambers  we  had  quitted — those  passed  to  the  other  side  of  the 
widening  gulph  opened  between  them  and  ourselves.  Irretrievable  as  the  sepa- 
ration is,  we  seem  at  such  moments  to  discover  a  link  which,  though  but  of 
gossamer,  is  a  connexion  between  their  humanity  and  our  own.  Here  the 
foliage  rises — 


~£V 


"  Shade  above  shade,  a  woody  theatre 
Of  stateliest  growth." 

A  sinuosity  of  the  river  contributes  to  increase  the  imposing  effect  of  these 
dark  masses.  We  looked  upwards  towards  the  outline  they  described  upon 
the  heavens  with  admiration,  fore-shortened  as  they  were,  and  standing  out 
from  the  azure  above.  There  is  a  projecting  point  on  the  foot-path  which 
leads  towards  Calstock,  running  parallel  with  the  river  all  the  way  from  the 
chapel ;  and  there  is  a  little  quay  iq>on  this  path,  from  whence  these  woods  are 
seen  to  great  advantage.     From  this  place  the  following  view  is  taken. 

The  chapel  just  mentioned,  and  of  which  the  roof  is  observed  at  some  dis- 
tance among  the  woods,  is  connected  with  a  memorable  incident.  It  stands 
upon  a  perpendicular  elevation,  which  projects  from  the  bold  sweeping  hill  above, 
and  is  reared  upon  the  only  rock  which  presents  itself  along  the  base  of  the 
elevation ;  except  one  or  two  close  to  the  water,  rising  very  little  above  it,  and 


CORNWALL. 


69 


richly  tinted  with  lichen. 
Sir  Richard  Edgcombe 
being  suspected  of  par- 
tizanship  with  the  Earl 
of  Richmond,  during  the 
reign  of  Richard  III.,  it 
was  determined  to  secure 
him,  and  he  was  closely 
pursued  from  his  house  into 
the  woods.  Having  gained 
a  little  upon  his  pursuers, 
the  thought  struck  him, 
just  as  he  reached  the  sum- 
mit of  the  rock  upon  which 
the  chapel  stands,  to  put  a 
stone  into  his  cap  and  fling  it  into  the  stream,  while  he  himself  slipped  down 
the  face  of  the  rock;  for,  although  of  a  fearful  height,  roots,  trunks,  and 
branches  of  trees  were  growing  out  from  the  chinks,  by  which  it  was  easy  to 
descend  some  portion  of  the  way,  so  far  indeed,  as  not  to  be  seen  from  the 
summit.  The  rock  projects  into  the  water,  therefore  its  face  is  not  visible 
from  the  same  side  of  the  river.  Sir  Richard's  pursuers  thought  he  had  drowned 
himself,  and  gave  up  the  pursuit.  He  thus  gained  time  to  cross  over  into 
Brittany ;  and  upon  his  return  built  the  chapel,  in  grateful  recollection  of  his 
escape.  Carew  relates  the  story  somewhat  differently,  and  says  that  Sir 
Richard  threw  his  cap  into  the  water  while  his  pursuers  were  hot  at  his  heels ; 
but  it  is  evident  that  in  such  a  case  he  could  hardly  have  escaped.  The  chapel 
is  small  and  plain.  In  one  of  the  windows  is  some  painted  glass,  having  the 
female  effigy  of  a  saint,  the  crucifixion,  and  the  family  arms.  On  the  altar  is 
a  gilded  crucifix  and  the  image  of  a  bishop  ;  and  upon  the  wall  an  old  painting 
of  a  female  holding  a  book,  while  opposite  to  it  is  the  representation  of  an 
angel,  with  a  sceptre.  Sir  Richard  Edgcombe  was  comptroller  of  the  household 
to  Henry  VII. ;  and  having  been  sent  upon  an  embassy  to  France,  died  at 
Morlaix,  upon  his  way  home,  in  1489,  and  was  buried  there.  The  represen- 
tation of  him  here  shows  a  knight  in  armour,  kneeling  before  a  desk,  and  by 
his  side  a  bishop,  the  counterpart  of  the  figure  upon  the  altar,  which  some 
affirm  to  be  the  resemblance  of  Thomas  a  Becket.  It  was  here,  at  Cothele,  that 
the  mother  of  Richard  Edgcombe,  who  was  the  first  baron,  created  in  1742, 
was  singularly  recovered  from  death.  She  had  been  ill,  had  apparently  expired, 
and  her  body  had  been  deposited  in  the  family  vault ;  the  interment  over,  the 
sexton,  who  knew  that  a  gold  ring,  or  rings,  were  upon  her  fingers,  went 
into  the  vault ;  and  opening  the  coffin,  proceeded  to  dislodge  the  super- 
fluous ornaments,  and  in  so  doing  pinched  the  fingers,  perhaps  not  very 
mercifully.     All  at  once  he  observed  the  body  move ;  he  became  terror-struck, 


70  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

and  fled,  leaving  his  lanthorn  behind  him.  The  lady  soon  recovered 
sufficiently  to  get  out  of  her  coffin,  and  move  away  from  the  place  of  her 
interment.  She  regained  her  health,  and  had  a  son  five  years  after  this  sin- 
gular event. 

Cothele  stands  in  the  parish  of  Calstock,  the  latter  being  a  living  in  the  gift 
of  the  Duke  of  Cornwall ;  and  the  fine  hanging  woods,  tinted  in  autumn  with 
hues  that  seem  peculiarly  their  own,  in  warmth  and  richness,  almost  reach  from 
Cothele  to  that  little  town,  where  there  is  a  ferry  over  the  river.  Calstock  is 
about  five  miles  from  Callington.  The  church  stands  upon  the  summit  of  a 
lofty  hill,  overlooking  the  Tamar,  and  commanding  a  noble  prospect ;  but  the 
ascent  from  the  water  is  tedious.  In  this  church  is  a  burial  vault  of  the  Edg- 
combe  family,  built  in  1588.  There  are  monuments  to  Pearse  Edgcombe,  who 
died  in  1666,  and  to  the  Countess  of  Sandwich,  the  widow  of  the  gallant  Earl 
who  lost  his  life  in  combat  with  De  Ruyter,  in  1672. 

These  allusions  to  the  scenery  on  the  banks  of  the  Tamar  require  some 
notice  of  that  celebrated  Cornish  river.  The  Tamar  rises  upon  Sherston 
Moor,  in  the  parish  of  Moorwinstow,  not  far  from  the  source  of  the  Toi*ridge, 
which  flows  into  Devonshire,  and  near  a  third  stream,  which  reaches  the  sea 
westwards.  The  Tamar  has  a  course  of  fifty-nine  miles  to  Plymouth  Sound. 
Passing  near  Yeowellston,  where  a  road  crosses  it  out  of  Devonshire,  and 
receiving  two  or  three  insignificant  streams  from  each  bank,  it  flows  tolerably 
direct  until  it  reaches  the  aqueduct-bridge,  which  carries  over  it  the  Holsworthy 
branch  of  the  Bude  canal ;  the  Launceston  branch  running  nearly  parallel 
with  its  course  on  the  Cornish  side.  Near  New-Hay  it  furnishes  a  reser- 
voir for  the  Bude  canal.  At  North  Tamer  ton,  about  fifteen  miles  from  its 
source,  to  which  place  it  gives  a  name,  it  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  of  stone, 
and  begins  to  put  on  that  character  of  interest  which  increases  as  it  flows 
southwards ;  at  every  bend  displaying  changes  in  the  highest  degree  attrac- 
tive to  the  lovers  of  picturesque  landscape.  Near  Alvacot  it  runs  between 
eminences  clothed  with  coppice  woods  in  a  narrow  vale ;  and  a  little  above, 
receives  from  the  Cornish  and  Devonshire  sides  several  streams.  It  then 
passes  Great  and  Little  Tamerton;  and  near  Newbridge  is  joined  by  the 
Werrington. 

It  is  said  that  the  banks  of  the  Werrington  river  were  the  scene  of  the  loves 
of  Edgar  and  Elphreda.  The  meeting  of  the  lovers  is  asserted  to  have  been 
here ;  and  is  strengthened  by  the  fact  of  the  spot  where  they  met  being  to  this 
day  called  "  Ladies'  Cross,"  about  two  miles  from  Launceston,  and  a  mile  or 
more  west  of  the  Tamar,  in  a  part  of  the  parish  within  the  limits  of  Devon- 
shire. Tradition  adds,  that  the  bed  in  Avhich  the  king  and  his  mistress  slept 
was  long  preserved  there.  Elphreda  was  the  daughter  of  Orgarius,  Duke  of 
Cornwall,  and  was  one  of  the  loveliest  women  of  her  time.  The  fame  of  her 
beauty  reached  the  ears  of  Edgar,  who  sent  his  favourite  nobleman,  Earl 
Ethelwould,  of  East  Anglia,  to  ascertain  if  what  was  said  of  her  beauty  were 


CORNWALL.  71 

true,  intending  in  that  case  to  ask  her  hand  in  marriage.  Ethelwould  set  off 
for  the  West,  and  soon  reached  the  residence  of  Orgarius ;  when  he  himself  was 
so  taken  with  the  beauty  of  the  lady  that  he  wooed  her,  and  obtained  her 
father's  consent.  Ethelwould  returned  to  the  king,  and  made  a  very  indifferent 
report  of  the  lady's  charms ;  saying  she  was  fair,  but  not  answerable  to  the 
report  made  of  her ;  at  the  same  time  he  asked  the  lady  of  the  king  for  himself, 
as  by  obtaining  her  hand  he  should  thereby  greatly  increase  his  fortunes.  The 
king,  confiding  in  his  favourite's  honour,  gave  his  consent,  and  Ethelwould 
solemnized  the  marriage.  Soon  afterwards  the  fame  of  Elphreda's  beauty  was 
sounded  louder  than  ever  at  court,  and  the  king  began  to  suspect  the  deceit 
which  had  been  practised.  He  went  down  to  Exeter,  and  sent  forwards  word 
that  he  would  meet  with  Duke  Orgarius  in  the  forest  of  Dartmoor ;  Ethelwould 
and  Elphreda  being  then  staying  at  the  residence  of  Orgarius.  Ethelwould, 
suspecting  the  king's  motive,  unfolded  to  his  wife  the  real  state  of  the  matter, 
and  how  he  had  disparaged  her  beauty  to  the  king,  and  entreated  her  to  dress 
herself  to  the  least  advantage,  that  in  mean  array  she  might  be  less  regarded. 
Her  husband  then,  renewing  his  entreaties  with  flattery  and  a  loving  kiss, 
hoped  he  had  succeeded  in  his  object, — ill  judge  as  he  was  of  woman's  ruling 
passion  !  Elphreda  began  to  reason  with  herself  upon  the  folly  of  concealing 
her  beauty  from  a  monarch  whose  queen  she  might  have  been.  "  Must  I 
needs  befool  myself  to  be  only  his  fair  fool,  who  has  so  despightly  kept  me 
from  being  a  cpieen  !  He  may  answer  it  to  his  master,  who  hath  bubbled  me 
with  a  coronet  for  a  crown ;  and  made  me  a  subject,  who  might  have  been  a 
sovereign."  Then,  "right  woman  in  doing  nothing  more  than  what  is  for- 
bidden," say  the  chronicles,  she  made  the  most  of  her  beauty.  She  bathed  and 
anointed  herself  with  the  sweetest  perfumes,  curled  her  rich  locks  with  care, 
and  sprinkled  them  with  diamonds ;  over  her  breast  pearls  and  rubies  glittered 
like  stars  ;  and  from  her  ears  depended  diamonds  of  the  richest  water,  sparkling 
as  she  moved  gracefully  along,  more  angel  than  woman  in  appearance,  to  the 
presence  of  the  king,  whom  she  received  with  a  grace  and  obeisance  that  looked 
like  enchantment.  Struck  with  admiration,  and  disgusted  at  the  perfidious 
conduct  of  the  man  who  had  abused  Ms  confidence,  the  king  went  out  hunting, 
and  finding  a  retired  spot  where  opportunity  favoured,  upbraided  Ethelwould 
with  his  perfidy,  and  slew  him.  Edgar  afterwards  took  Elphreda  for  his  wife, 
and  had  two  sons  by  her,  Edmund  who  died  young,  and  Ethelred,  afterwards 
king  of  England  ;  who  reigned  in  place  of  Edward,  the  son  of  Edgar  by  a  first 
marriage ;  but  who,  Avhen  hunting  near  Corfe  Castle,  was  treacherously  mur- 
dered by  order  of  Elphreda,  as  he  was  proceeding  to  visit  her  unattended,  in 
the  sixteenth  year  of  his  age,  a.d.  979.  Elphreda  afterwards  became  a 
penitent  for  her  crimes,  and  died  in  the  monastery  of  "Worwel,  in  Hampshire, 
covering  herself  with  crosses,  and  in  dreadful  fear  of  the  Evil  One  taking  her 
to  himself. 

The  Attery  next  joins  the  Tamar,  and  just  below  it  is  Poulston  Bridge  ;  after 


72 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


the   last    near    Cather    Mather   woods,    now    fall   into   the 


which,  a  wood- 
en bridge  inter- 
vening, that  of 
Greyston  spans 
the  river  in  a 
very  beautiful 
situation,  as 
may  be  judged 
from  the  illus- 
tration. 

The  Ly  d  river 
from  the  De- 
vonshire side, 
and  the  Inny 
from  Cornwall, 
main  stream. 

This  may  suffice  for  a  description  of  the  river  downwards  to  Inny  Foot.  "We 
will  now  meet  that  point,  proceeding  upwards  from  Plymouth  Sound.  On  the 
Cornwall  side,  after  quitting  the  Narrows  at  Devil's  Point,  the  private  gardens 
at  Mount  Edgcumbe  are  perceived  in  all  their  redolence.  Next,  the  house 
appears,  at  the  end  of  a  fine  avenue  of  overshadowing  oaks  and  elms.  Further 
on  is  a  road  that  leads  to  Maker  church,  and  a  rock  crowned  with  an  obelisk. 
These  are  succeeded  by  the  creeks  of  Millbrook  and  St.  John.  The  former, 
called  by  Leland  a  "  rich  fichar  town,"  was  a  borough,  but  was  excused  from 
returning  members ;  being  too  poor  to  pay  four  shillings  a-day  to  its  repre- 
sentatives. Near  Millbrook  is  the  brewery  for  the  Navy.  Torpoint,  a  bustling 
village  in  time  of  war,  and  a  chapelry  of  East  Antony,  having  a  ferry  across 
Hamoaze  to  Moricc-town,  succeeds ;  and  is  the  mail  road  to  Falmouth  by 
Plymouth.  Thanks,  a  seat  of  Lord  Graves,  is  a  little  further  on,  upon  the 
Cornish  shore ;  and  soon  after,  the  woods  of  Antony  House  come  down  to  the 
water,  in  dark-green  promontories,  and  form  the  southern  entrance  of  the 
Lynher  river,  the  view  of  which  abounds  in  picturesque  objects.  Ince  Castle, 
nestled  in  wood,  seems  to  close  up  the  view  ;  cornfields  and  meadows  appearing 
yet  higher  over  the  trees.  The  opposite  point  of  land,  forming  the  entrance 
of  the  Lynher,  is  that  upon  which  stands  the  town  of  Saltash.  The  Devon- 
shire side,  from  Devil's  Point,  is  full  of  interest,  derived  more  from  art  than 
nature.  Arsenals,  wharfs,  a  powder  magazine,  and  the  town  and  lines  of 
Devonport,  cover  a  large  portion  of  the  shore.  A  pretty  creek  runs  up  to  a 
place  called  Weston  Mill,  and  the  land  comes  down  rather  abruptly  to  the 
river  as  far  as  the  Saltash  ferry ;  where,  by  one  of  those  selfish  vagaries  of 
feudal  times,  the  natural  boundary  was  broken,  and  Cornwall  crosses  a  river, 
three  furlongs  wide,  to  attach  a  piece  of  land  a  mile  or  two  square  in  the  sister 
county.     All  the  way  to  this  place  the  ships  of  war  in  ordinary  are  stationed, 


CORNWALL 


and  so  fine  is  the  harbour  that  they  have  space  to  swing  round  at  single  moor- 
ings. Narrowing  at  the  ferry,  the  Tamar  soon  expands  again,  each  bank  vying 
with  the  other  in  beauty.  The  river  now  puts  on  a  lake-like  form.  The 
Cornish  shore  falls  in  above  Saltash,  which  stands  upon  one  horn  of  a  fine 
crescent,  convex  westwards,  answered  on  the  north  by  the  promontory  on  which 
is  situated  the  church  of 
Landulph,  with  its  em- 
bowering trees, — the  beau 
ideal  of  a  place  for  the 
weary  to  be  at  rest ;  and 
over  these,  smiling  corn- 
fields and  pastures  rise 
still  higher.  Round  this 
northern  point  a  gentle 
hollow  again  intervenes, 
with  the  village  of  Car- 
green  upon  its  northern 
side. 

The  manor  of  Landulph  once  belonged  to  the  Courtenay  family ;  and  the 
old  mansion  house  of  Cliffton  yet  remains,  with  its  hall  and  chapel ;  both  much 
decayed.  The  church  of  Landulph  is  remarkable  for  containing,  upon  a  small 
metal  tablet,  the  following  inscription : — 

"  HERE    LIETH    THE    BODY    OF    THEODORE    PALEOLOGUS, 

OF    PESARO,    IN    ITALY, 

DESCENDED   FROM   THE    IMPERIAL   LINE    OF   THE   LAST   CHRISTIAN    EMPERORS    OF    GREECE, 

BEING  THE  SON  OF  PROSPER,  THE  SON  OF  THEODORE,  THE  SON  OF  JOHN,  THE   SON  OF   THOMAS,  SECOND 

BROTHER  OF  CONSTANTINE  PALEOLOGUS,  THE  EIGHTH  OF  THAT  NAME,  AND  LAST  OF  THE 

LINE  THAT  REIGNED  IN  CONSTANTINOPLE,  TILL  SUBDUED  BY  THE  TURKS, 

WHO    MARRIED   WITH    MARY,    THE   DAUGHTER   OF    WILLIAM    BALLS,    OF    HADLEY,    IN    SUFFOLK,    GENT., 

AND   HAD   ISSUE    FIVE   CHILDREN, 

THEODORE,   JOHN,    FERDINANDO,    MARIA,    AND   DOROTHY. 

HE   DEPARTED   THIS    LIFE   AT   CLYFTON,   THE    21  ST   OF   JANUARY,  1636."* 

The  history  of  two  sons  of  this  descendant  from  one,  of  whom  Mahomet  II. 
declared  he  "  had  found  many  slaves  in  Peloponnesus,  but  no  man  save  him," 
is  unknown ;  but  Dorothy,  the  younger  daughter,  wTas  married,  at  Landulph, 
to  William  Arundell,  in  1636,  and  died  in  1681.  Mary,  who  died  unmarried, 
was  buried  in  the  same  church  in  1674. 

About  twenty  years  ago,  the  vault  in  which  Paleologus  was  interred  was 

*  There  is  an  error  in  this  date,  as  the  entry  of  his  burial  is  October  20,  1636. 

L 


74  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

accidentally  opened ;  and  curiosity  prompted  the  lifting  of  the  lid.  The  coffin 
was  entire,  made  of  oak.  The  body  was  sufficiently  perfect  to  show  that  the 
dead  man  exceeded  the  common  stature.  The  head  was  a  long  oval,  and  the 
nose  believed  to  have  been  aquiline.  A  long  white  beard  reached  low  down 
the  breast.  Theodore,  the  elder  son  of  Paleologus,  was  a  sailor ;  and  died  on 
board  the  Charles  II,  as  is  proved  by  his  will,  dated  1693.  He  appears  to 
have  possessed  landed  property,  and  to  have  left  a  widow  named  Martha.  The 
marriage  of  Theodore's  sister,  already  mentioned,  is  entered  in  the  register, 
"  Dorothea  Paleologus  de  Stirpe  Imperatorum.^  In  Landulph,  then,  it  is  pro- 
bable, rests  the  last  survivors  of  a  great  dynasty,  descended  from  the  race  of 
Comneni,  the  sovereigns  of  Byzantium. 

From  Landulph,  the  course  of  the  river  becomes  north-west  as  far  as  the 
point  upon  which  Cliffton  stands ;  the  Cornish  shore  presenting  several  pretty 
indentations,  above  one  of  which  is  the  farm  called  Hay.  Returning  to  Saltash, 
and  tracing  the  Devonshire  bank  from  the  passage-house,  the  Tamar's  lake- 
like form  is  equally  preserved  by  an  indentation  upon  that  side,  presenting  a 
scene  of  extraordinary  beauty.  A  creek,  called  Budshed  Creek,  runs  up  to 
the  village  of  Tamerton  Foliott ;  and  a  little  northwards,  separated  by  a  point 
of  land  which  severs  Budshed  from  the  Tavy,  here  joining  the  Tamar,  the 
landscape  is  truly  striking.  The  narrow  and  wood-covered  shores  of  Budshed 
contrast  their  deepness  of  foliage  with  the  waters  beneath,  that  flash  brightly 
on  one  side  of  the  creek,  and  lie  dark  as  death  upon  the  other,  from  the 
sombre  hue  of  the  objects  mirrored  in  their  bosom.  A  long  vista  opens  up  the 
Tavy ;  bounded  on  one  hand  by  the  shades  and  rich  foliage  of  Warleigh,  for 
a  considerable  distance,  and  then  by  the  woods  of  Maristow,  the  house  being 
seen  behind  all.  Glancing  up  the  Tamar  itself,  towards  Hall's  Hole,  having 
on  the  right  the  small  creek  of  Liphill,  the  river,  if  possible,  increases  in 
beauty.  Over  the  mainlands  on  the  north,  towards  Beer  Alston,  the  tors  of 
Dartmoor,  beyond  Tavistock,  rise  in  darkly-grey  undulations  against  the 
azure  of  the  sky.  The  glance  cast  down  the  Cornwall  shore,  discovers  hills, 
fields,  and  woods,  thrown  back  in  an  amphitheatrical  form.  The  river  here, 
viewed  at  high  water,  when  it  presents  an  expanse  of  above  a  mile  wide,  and 
an  unbroken  reach  of  between  four  and  five,  is  enchanting.  Delicious  are  the 
rural  nooks  upon  the  shores ;  and  while  the  scenery  is  ever  disclosing  fresh 
beauties  in  wood,  hill,  pasture,  rock,  and  stream,  the  mind  is  kept  alive,  and 
the  fancy  perpetually  employed  in  anticipation.  Here  the  waves  sparkle,  every 
dash  of  the  oar  raising  a  sensible  freshness,  and  diffusing  flashes  of  light  from 
the  reflecting  crystal ; — there  the  water  seems  to  sleep  in  a  tranquillity  like 
that  of  the  blessed, — green  coloured  from  the  reflected  herbage,  the  very  "  rio 
verde," — the  "  green  water," — of  the  Spanish  ballad. 

But  our  oar  must  be  plied ;   it  is  not  fitting  to  linger  too  long  about  the 
loveliness  that  so  carries  the  mind  captive.     The  river  grows  narrower.     On 


CORNWALL.  /  0 

the  Cornwall  side  is  a  promontory,  meeting  a  corresponding  hollow  upon 
that  of  Devon ;  and  here  commences  one  of  those  serpentine  curves  to  which 
the  Tamar  owes  a  great  part  of  its  picturesque  attraction.  The  first  point 
passed,  keeping  close  in  the  channel  which  lies  upon  the  Devonshire  shore,  at 
once  a  north-western  course  is  exchanged  for  a  south-western,  and  this  is 
changed  again  very  soon  for  a  north-eastern.  Upon  clearing  the  first  curve, 
nearly  in  a  line  with  a  projecting  point  of  land  on  the  Devon  side,  Pentilly 
Castle  appears  over  the  Cornish  bank,  rising  abruptly  from  the  water, — a 
vision  of  beauty  upon  a  noble  eminence.  Pentilly  is  a  building  in  that  modern 
Gothic  taste  which  has  yet  to  acquire  some  definite  name.  It  was  erected 
from  the  designs  of  the  late  Mr.  Wilkins,  and  looks  well  from  the  river.  The 
cost  to  its  owner,  Mr.  John  Tillie  Cory  ton,  was  50,000/.  All  around  is  well- 
wooded;  the  foliage,  luxuriant.  There  is  a  wildness  too  about  the  spot,  and 
wild  objects  appear.  The  graceful  heron  may  be  seen  watching  its  prey ; 
and  many  other  aquatic  birds.  Coming  round  the  land,  and  catching  the  house 
suddenly  from  the  water,  the  effect  is  much  heightened.  The  stranger  uncon- 
sciously "  suspends  the  dashing  oar,"  that  he  may  enjoy,  to  the  fullest  extent, 
a  scene  so  charmingly  picturesque. 

It  was  opposite  Pentilly,  some  years  ago,  that  a  singular  accident  occurred 
from  lightning.  Mr.  James  Tillie  was  then  owner  of  the  castle,  as  it  was 
called,  since  removed  to  make  way  for  the  modern  building.  Mr.  Tillie 
had  pushed  off  his  boat  into  the  river,  with  a  few  friends,  intending  to  fish  ; 
and  the  party,  with  servants,  were  waiting  the  proper  time  of  the  tide  for  the 
salmon ;  when,  on  a  sudden,  a  violent  clap  of  thunder  was  heard,  and  an  ad- 
jacent field  and  meadow  seemed  to  be  in  a  flame.  A  ball  of  fire,  at  the  same 
moment,  shot  over  the  hedge  of  a  steep  Avood  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Tamar, 
and  passed  diagonally  across  the  boat,  from  the  bow  to  the  stern-quarter,  with  the 
speed  of  thought.  Mr.  Tillie's  servant  received  a  violent  blow  on  the  shoulder 
and  head.  A  gentleman  who  sat  next  to  him  was  struck  deaf  for  a  consider- 
able time.  Mr.  Tillie  was  in  the  middle  of  the  boat,  and  distinctly  saw  the  ball 
pass  him,  about  three  feet  distant  from  his  face.  He  described  it  as  oval,  and 
somewhat  pointed.  He  was  struck  on  the  back  part  of  the  head ;  his  eyes 
closed  for  the  moment,  and  he  sprang  up,  he  supposed,  two  or  three  feet,  from 
the  shock;  and  yet  was  afterwards  surprised  to  find  himself  upon  his  legs, 
imagining  he  was  still  seated.  The  corner  of  his  hat  was  taken  away,  as 
if  it  had  been  shot  off  by  a  bullet.  Another  servant  was  thrown  on  a  fishing- 
net,  and  remained  senseless  for  several  hours  afterwards  ;  his  face  was  black- 
ened ;  while  a  tenant  of  Mr.  Tillie,  named  Pethan,  was  struck  on  the  temple 
by  the  ball,  and  fell  dead  into  the  river.  He  was  instantly  taken  out,  with  his 
dress  on  fire.  He  had  no  wound,  of  consequence,  upon  his  person,  but  his 
clothes  were  torn,  and  smellcd  of  sulphur.  Three  persons  were  standing  upon 
the  shore,  among  whom  the  ball  fell.  One  received  a  violent  blow  upon  the 
head ;  the  second  had  his  eye-brows  singed ;  while  the  third,  between  whose 


76 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


legs  the  ball  went  down  into  the  sand,  only  perceived  a  sudden  warmth  come 
upon  him. 

Upon  the  north  side  of  Pentilly  Castle,  a  little  distance  off,  a  small  stream 
falls  into  the  Tamar,  near  the  foot  of  an  eminence  called  Mount  Ararat, 
crowned  Avith  a  tower.  The  whole  hill  to  the  grounds  from  the  house  is 
finely  wooded.  With  this  solitary  tower  is  connected  a  story  of  Sir  James 
Tillie,  one  of  the  owners  of  Pentilly,  who  died  in  1712,  and  lqft  the  estate  to 
his  sister's  son,  James  Woolley,  Avho  took  the  name  of  Tillie.  Some  said  that 
he  was  an  atheist ;  others,  that  he  was  a  bon  tivant,  who  cared  nothing  at  all 
about  religion,  and  acted  up  to  the  sensual  maxim,  "  Let  us  eat  and  drink, 
for  to-morrow  we  die."  His  enjoyments  in  this  world,  being  of  such  a  cast, 
he  desired  that,  when  he  was  dead,  the  recollection  of  them  might  be  kept  up, 
among  the  living,  by  the  mode  of  his  interment ;  and  that  he  might  be  placed 
in  a  chair  before  a  table,  garnished  with  bottles,  glasses,  pipes,  and  tobacco,  in 
his  customary  dress,  and  that  he  might  thus  be  placed  in  an  apartment  under 
the  tower.  He  was  placed,  according  to  his  desire,  as  respected  the  site  of  his 
interment,  not  in  a  chair,  but  in  a  coffin.  It  had  been  reported  that  the  whole 
matter  was  a  fable,  and  that  no  such  inhumation  ever  took  place ;  but  we  were 
informed,  by  a  gentleman  well  acquainted  with  Pentilly,  that  some  years  ago 
a  lady  of  the  family  being  desirous  of  discovering  whether  there  was  any 
truth  in  the  tale,  had  the  vault  or  chamber  opened,  and  the  dead  man's  re- 
mains were  discovered  to  have  been  deposited  there  in  a  coffin ;  while,  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  tower,  his  bust  was  found  in  white  marble.  The  estate  came 
afterwards  to  the  grandson's  child,  John  Coryton;  whose  son  is  John  Tillie 
Coryton,  Esq.,  the  present  owner. 

The  side  of  the  river  op- 
posite Pentilly  rises  high, 
and  consists  of  rock,  with 
here  and  there  a  little  wood. 
It  is  remarkable,  that  as 
one  side  of  the  river  puts 
on  a  less  interesting  cha- 
racter, the  other  generally, 
from  its  attraction  upon 
the  opposite  shore,  restores 
the  balance  of  beauty. 

The  Tamar  now  makes 
a  loner  curve  between  the 
hills,  until  it  reaches  the 
quay  of  Cothele,  about  two  miles  above  Pentilly  Castle.  Here  the  river  is 
bounded  by  the  most  luxuriant  wood  on  both  sides,  up  to  a  hollow  called 
Dane's  Comb,  on  the  southern  side  of  Cothele  House.  When,  gliding  along  as 
if  it  embodied  all  the  tranquillity  in  the  world  in  its  own  bosom,  the  Tamar 


■-::jsm. 


CORNWALL. 


77 


washes  the  chapel  rock  at  Cothele,  and  bends  at  a  sharp  angle,  taking  a  south* 
east  turn,  and  passing  under  the  town  of  Calstock ;  a  poor  place,  but,  from  posi- 
tion, contributing  much  to  enhance  the  effect  of  the  picturesque  scenery  around. 
From  Calstock  it  winds  round  Harewood  House,  the  seat  of  Sir  Salusbury 
Trelawny,  most  charmingly  situated,  and  almost  surrounded  by  the  river ;  and 
passing  Morwellham  Quay,  upon  the  Devonshire  side,  to  which  place  sea-borne 
vessels  ascend  with  the  tide,  it  makes  a  retrograde  turn,  and  comes  back  to  within 
half  a  mile  of  Calstock,  measuring  overland ;  though,  by  water,  the  distance  is 
above  three  miles.  The  Devonshire  bank  is  bounded  by  the  lofty  heights  of 
Morwellham,  and  the  towering  crags  called  Morwell  Rocks.  The  Cornish 
shore  is  low,  as  if  there  had  once  been  a  lake  upon  that  side.  Few  spots  can 
exceed  in  grandeur  this  part  of  the  Tamar.  Granite  rocks  Avith  perpendicular 
faces,  except  a  few  hollows  filled  with  vegetation,  extend  a  considerable  distance 
along  the  river.  Some,  time-rent  and  shattered,  seem  scarcely  to  maintain 
their  places.  Now,  peaked  in  immense  masses,  they  tower  towards  the  sky, 
as  if  their  bases  were  set  deep  in  the  bowels  of  the  world.  Here,  oaks  grow 
from  small  rents  or  recesses,  Avhere  they  can  fix  their  roots ;  in  other  places, 
the  rocks  scarcely  show  a  little  heather  or  tangled  grass.  This  scenery  con- 
tinues up  to  what  is  called  the  Weir  Head.  About  the  Weir  Head  there  is 
much  that  resembles  some  scenes  in  Derbyshire,  but  upon  a  larger  scale. 
Here  a  weir  crosses  the  Tamar,  in  order  to  feed  a  lock  which  conveys  barges 
higher,  the  water  falling  about  three  feet.  This  spot  generally  limits  the 
voyages  of  boats  up  the  river. 

It  must  not  be  imagined  - 

that  this  fine  river  loses 
its  attractions  among  the 
granite  precipices  at  the 
Weir  Head.  These  rocks 
continue  to  Newbridge ; 
and,  as  the  reader  will  ob- 
serve in  the  steel  engrav- 
ing, the  scenery  here  is  such 
as  is  rarely  surpassed  in 
beauty.  The  picturesque 
effect  of  the  bridge  is  re- 
markably good.  It  is  joined, 
on  the  Cornish  side,  to 
the  bottom  of  a  steep  hill, 
up  which  the  road  conducts  directly  to  the  great  elevation  of  Hingston  Down : 
on  the  Devonshire  side,  towards  Tavistock,  the  shore  is  much  lower.  The 
distant  scenery  consists  of  noble  wood-covered  eminences,  smiling  meadows, 
with  cultivation  and  wildness  intermingled,  the  stream  flowing  gently  and 
transparently  along.      Newbridge  too  is  as  novel  in  form,  as  happy  in  position, 


78 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


and  makes  an  enchanting  picture.     Its  surrounding  beauties  increase,  upon 
ascending  the  hill  on  the  Cornish  side: — 

"  Still  the  prospect  wider  spreads, 
Adds  a  thousand  woods  and  meads  ; 
Still  it  widens, — widens  still, 
And  sinks  the  newly-risen  hill." 

When  the  river  is  traced  further  upwards,  it  preserves  a  character  equally 
fine,  though  less  expanded.  The  vales  become  narrow,  the  sinuosities  rather 
lengthen,  green  woods  replace  rough  ground,  and  fertile  meadows  occasionally 
border  the  stream,  that  now  rolls  over  pebbles,  with  soothing  murmurs,  or 
rushes  over  beds  of  schistine  rock.  Soon  afterwards  Warm  Wood  appears, 
and  then  the  Swiss  cottage  of  the  Duke  of  Bedford,  at  Endsleigh,  and  next 
Endsleigh  itself,  in  a  situation  of  surpassing  beauty.  A  more  delicious  retire- 
ment cannot  be  imagined ;  the  woods  on  both  sides  come  down  to  welcome 
the  gushing  stream,  that  bears  health  and  vigour  upon  its  current,  as  it 
dances  in  the  glorious  sunbeams,  or  glides  along,  through  the  umbrage  deep 
and  gentle,  and  "  without  o'erflowing,  full."  Here  the  Tamar  makes  almost  a 
double  circlet,  and  receives  the  Inny  at  the  point  where  we  quitted  it,  to 
describe  the  ascent  from  Plymouth  Sound. 


We  now  return  to  Callington,  here  delineated ;  the  distance  to  Saltash  is 
nine  miles,  through  a  district  well  cultivated.  On  the  way  to  Saltash,  upon 
the  left  of  the  road,  stands  the  church-town  of  St.  Dominick.  Francis  Rous, 
a  distinguished  personage  under  the  government  of  Cromwell,  was  a  native  of 
Halton,  in  this  parish,  and,  becoming  provost  of  Eton,  was  buried  there  in 
1659.  Charles  Fitz-Gcoffry,  the  rector,  who  died  in  1637,  was  the  author  of 
some  poetry,  published  in  the  reign  of  James  I.,  in  a  book,  now  very  scarce, 
entitled  "  Choice  Flowers  and  Descriptions." 

The  road  passes  through  St.  Mellion,  which  contains  the  unimportant 
villages  of  Bealbury  and  Reason.  Crocadon  House  was  originally  the 
birth-place  and  residence  of  John  Trevisa,  who  translated  the  Bible,  and 
several  abstruse  works.  His  family  becoming  extinct  in  1690,  the  estate 
was  purchased  by  the  Corytons,  and  occupied  by  them  until  possessed  of 
Pentilly  Castle.     It  is  partly  demolished,  and  the  remnant  is  a  farm-house. 


•  *sg=  i 


. 


CORNWALL.  79 

In  the  church  of  St.  Mellion  there  is  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  William 
Coryton,  dated  1651.  He  was  member  of  parliament  for  Launceston,  when 
Charles  I.  endeavoured  to  establish  absolute  power ;  and  was  imprisoned,  toge- 
ther with  Hampden,  Pym,  and  others,  for  refusing  to  be  taxed,  without  the 
consent  of  parliament.  He  was  afterwards  active  in  procuring  the  petition 
of  rights,  and  was  prosecuted,  in  the  Star-chamber,  for  detaining  the  speaker 
of  the  House  of  Commons  in  his  chair.  His  monument  bears  the  following- 
inscription  : — 

"  This  marble  stone  is  placed  on 

The  thrice-i'enowned  Coryton ; 

(But  his  own  name,  a  trophie,  shall 

Outlast  this  his  memorial.) 

Grave,  wise,  and  pious,  Heaven  him  lent 

To  be  his  age's  president. 

Both  good  and  great ;  and  yet  beloved ; 

In  judgment  just,  in  truth  approved. 

Honour'd  by  the  offices  he  bore 

In  public  ;  but  by  meekness  more. 

Loyall  in  warre,  in  peace  he  stood 

The  pillar  of  the  Commons'  good. 

Wordes  may  not  set  his  praises  forth, 

Nor  praises  comprehend  his  worth  ; 

His  worth  doth  speake  him  thus,  in  briefe, 

Cornwall's  late  glory,  now  its  grief." 

Penton's  Cross  is  an  insignificant  village,  from  whence  a  road  leads  to  Lan- 
dulph,  having  an  entrance  to  the  grounds  of  Pentilly,  on  the  side  of  the  estate 
opposite  to  the  Tamar;  the  road  afterwards  passes  between  the  churches  of 
Botus  Fleming  on  the  left,  and  Landrake  on  the  western  side.  The  last- 
named  church-town  is  four  miles  from  Saltash,  in  the  direction  of  St.  Germains. 
Botus  Fleming  is  three  miles  north-west  of  the  same  town.  The  manor  once 
belonged  to  the  Valletorts  and  Courtenays ;  it  is  now  the  property  of  Mr. 
Charles  Carpenter,  whose  seat  is  called  Moditenham,  and  lies  east  of  the 
church ;  in  which  there  is  the  figure  of  a  Crusader  recumbent.  The  scenery 
in  the  neighbourhood  is  of  a  very  pleasing  character.  A  pyramidical  monu- 
ment stands  near  by,  erected  to  the  memory  of  a  Dr.  Martin  of  Plymouth, 
eighty  years  ago.  At  this  place  the  Earl  of  Bath,  being  at  the  time  go- 
vernor of  Plymouth,  in  concert  with  Mr.  Waddon,  lieutenant-governor  of 
Pendennis  Castle,  with  whom  he  was  upon  a  visit,  negociated  for  the  delivery 
of  both  fortresses  to  the  Prince  of  Orange.  Besides  this  infidelity  to  James  II., 
some  verses  circulated  through  Cornwall,  purporting  to  be  written  by  a  Roman 
Catholic  priest,  but  most  probably  issued  for  the  purpose,  by  threatening  the 
clergy  with  the  loss  of  their  livings,  detached  them  all,  except  two,  from  their 
allegiance  to  the  Stuarts.     The  verses  were  as  follow : — 

"  Henricus  Octavus 
Sold  the  land  that  God  gave  us  ; 
But  Jacobus  Secundus 
Shall  refund  us." 


80  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

The  town  of  Saltash  consists  of  one  main  street,  so  steep  that  a  carriage 
cannot  go  up  or  descend.  At  the  bottom  of  this  principal  street  a  mean-looking 
cross-street  runs  parallel  with  the  Tamar.  At  the  northern  extremity  the 
ferry-boat  lands  its  passengers  from  the  Devonshire  side.  A  turnpike  leads  from 
the  ferry  along  the  river  for  some  distance,  perfectly  level,  and  falls  into  the 
Callington  and  Launceston  road.  Saltash  is  a  corporate  town.  Many  places 
are  admirably  situated  in  a  landscape,  and  look  inviting  at  a  distance,  that  are 
really  mean, — such  is  Saltash ;  the  position  is  admirable,  standing  on  a  point 
of  land  that  juts  out  into  the  Tamar.  Seen  from  the  water  on  the  northern 
side,  the  houses  rise  tier  above  tier.  Upon  the  southern  side  a  few  fields  inter- 
vene, and  conceal  the  Lynher  river,  while  in  front,  deep  and  broad,  the  Tamar 
glides  at  its  own  "  sweet  will."  There  is  no  building  in  the  town  worthy  of 
notice,  except  the  old  chapel  of  ease,  dedicated  to  St.  Nicholas,  built  upon 
the  same  solid  rock  as  that  on  which  the  town  stands.  The  town-hall,  with  a 
market-house  beneath,  was  erected  about  tliirty  years  ago.  The  chapel  is  a 
gothic  edifice,  with  a  low,  strongly-built  tower.  It  contains  a  monument  to 
the  memory  of  three  brothers,  named  Drew,  who  were  drowned.  The  assizes 
for  Cornwall  were  held  in  this  town  in  1393,  and  it  still  possesses  singular 
privileges.  It  was  a  free  borough  in  the  reign  of  King  John,  and  returned 
members  to  {mrliament  from  the  time  of  Edward  VI. ;  among  whom  werQ 
Waller  the  poet,  and  Clarendon  the  historian.  The  shipping  possessed  by  the 
merchants  here  in  Elizabeth's  time  was  considerable ;  vessels  of  the  largest 
size  came  up  to  the  town.  A  carrack,  taken  by  Sir  Francis  Drake  in  that 
reign,  cleared  of  a  very  rich  cargo,  is  said  to  have  been  burned  here  by 
accident. 

But  if  the  town  itself  be  mean,  the  prospect  from  the  upper  part  makes 
ample  amends  for  an  ascent  through  a  miserable  street,  whence  the  road 
branches  off  to  St.  Stephen's  church,  upon  the  left  of  the  Callington  turnpike. 
Here,  at  a  gate  looking  south-east,  is  a  noble  view,  stretching  over  the  whole 
harbour  of  Hamoaze,  covered  with  vessels  of  war  in  ordinary ;  glancing  over 
Maker  Heights  and  Mount  Edgcumbc,  and  commanding  the  distant  country 
around  Plymouth  and  Devonport,  as  well  as  the  woods  and  shores  of  Anthony. 
Art  and  nature  arc  here  combined  with  great  effect.  Bright  waters,  dark  woods, 
black  war-ships,  arsenals,  ruins,  creeks,  and  the  ocean,  are  displayed  in  a  rich 
harmony  of  landscape,  that  is  scarcely  to  be  equalled.  The  noble  sheet  of  water 
forming  the  port  of  Plymouth  harbour,  mirrored  beneath  the  eye  from  an 
elevation  just  lofty  enough  to  command  the  whole  without  confusing  distant 
objects,  and  the  foliage  of  the  hue  which  Gilpin  observes  is  so  rich  in  the  West 
of  England,  fill  the  mind  of  the  spectator  with  indescribable  pleasure. 

Leaving  this  gate  on  the  left,  and  having  glimpses  of  the  same  scenery  for 
some  distance,  we  soon  reach  the  parish  church  of  St.  Stephen.  It  is  an 
ancient  structure,  built  of  slate,  with  a  lofty  tower.  In  the  churchyard  is  seen 
a  stone,  denominated  a  kite//,  or  leach  stone,  peculiar  to  some  parts  of  Cornwall, 


CORNWALL. 


81 


upon  which  the  coffins  are  placed  that  are  brought  for  interment.  There  are 
monuments  here  to  the  memory  of  members  of  the  Buller  family ;  and  thei*e 
is  a  tradition  that  one  of 
the  dukes  of  Cornwall, 
Orgarius,  was  buried  here, 
a  body  having  been  found 
wrapped  in  lead,  reported 
to  have  had  inscribed  upon 
it,  as  well  as  could  be 
made  out,  that  the  de- 
ceased was  a  duke,  whose 
heiress  married  a  prince ; 
referring  to  Elphreda  and 
Edgar,    whose    story    has 


been  already  given.  The 
dimensions  of  the  body  were  said  to  be  those  of  a  very  large  man.  St.  Ste- 
phen's church  is  but  a  short  distance  eastward  from  the  fine  old  castle  of 
Trematon,  which  appears  crowning  an  eminence  of  much  picturesque  beauty. 
The  ground  in  approaching  this  ruin  on  the  east  is  marked  by  great  boldness. 
A  deep  ravine  intervenes,  and  must  be  passed  before  attaining  the  steep  and 
toilsome  ascent,  which  leads  upon  that  side  to  this  most  perfect  of  all  the 
remains  of  the  ancient  castles  of  Cornwall,  until  it  was  mutilated  about  thirty 
years  ago,  in  an  inexcusable  manner,  for  the  erection  of  a  modern  house.  Ivy 
mantles  the  walls  and  battlements.  The  mound  is  covered  with  trees,  rising 
abruptly  from  the  gorge  on  the  eastern  side ;  upon  the  western  it  is  of  much 
less  elevation,  from  the  nature  of  the  ground.  The  silence  and  solitude 
of  the  approach,  and  the  impression  the  scene  produces,  marked  by  grand 
outlines,  render  Trematon  and  its  embattled  walls  objects  of  well-merited 
admiration. 

This  castle  was  held  under  the  earls  of  Cornwall,  in  the  reign  of  William 
Rufus,  by  Reginald  de  Valletort,  and  was  built  before  the  Concpiest.  In  1339, 
the  Valletorts  being  extinct,  Henry  de  Pomeroy,  as  heir  of  Richard  de  Valle- 
tort, relieved  the  castle  to  the  Black  Prince,  with  all  right  and  title  to  the 
same,  and  it  then  became  the  property  of  the  duchy  of  Cornwall.  When  we 
first  visited  it,  many  years  ago,  the  walls  of  the  keep  and  those  of  the  base- 
court  were  entire,  even  to  their  battlements.  The  area  enclosed  within  the 
outer  walls  was  about  an  acre.  The  walls  were  six  feet  thick,  pierced  with 
loop-holes,  and  there  was  a  walk  just  within  the  battlements,  all  round,  upon 
which  the  besieged  might  stand  in  case  of  attack,  to  defend  them.  The  build- 
ings within  this  court  were  gone.  The  gateway  was  a  square  tower,  and  in  good 
preservation,  consisting  of  three  arches,  with  grooves  for  portcullises.  This 
was  the  entrance  to  the  base-court,  at  the  eastern  end  of  which,  upon  a  lofty 
mound,  stood  the  dungeon  or  keep,  the  wall  of  which  was  ten  feet  thick,  and 

M 


82  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

between  twenty  and  thirty  high,  without  windows,  and  of  an  oval  form.  The 
entrance  of  the  keep  was  on  the  west  side ;  there  was  a  sally-port  under,  and 
the  whole  was  surrounded  by  a  deep  moat.  From  the  battlements  the  view 
of  the  scenery  over  hill  and  vale,  land  and  water, — was  enchantment  itself. 
Nothing  was  wanting  to  delight  the  eye,  or  rivet  the  attention.  Even  the 
little  valley  immediately  below,  watered  by  a  creek  from  the  Lynher  river, 
exhibited  a  mill  and  cottages,  forming  a  charming  glen,  contrasting  its  humble 
and  quiet  scenery  with  the  magnificence  of  the  castle-hill,  and  the  prospect 
seen  when  the  eye  glanced  at  more  distant  objects. 

We  descended  from  Trematon  to  a  ferry  which  crosses  the  Lynher  river  to 
East  Anthony,  passing  the  walls  of  a  building  said  to  have  been  the  chapel  of 
the  manor-house  of  Shillingham.  In  our  way  we  were  much  struck  with  the 
view  of  the  opposite  side  of  the  Lynher,  down  to  which,  and  pendant  over  the 


■ 


Avaves,  came  the  dark  groves  of  Anthony  House,  the  seat  of  the  Right  Hon. 
Reginald  Pole  Carew.  Behind  the  deep  foliage  of  these  woods,  corn-fields  and 
pastures  were  seen,  up  to  the  brow  of  the  distant  hills.  Ear  beyond,  the 
Avhole  of  Hamoaze  spread  its  waters  between  ;  and,  rising  further  off,  the  line 
of  land,  with  the  church  tower  and  tufts  of  trees  at  Mount  Edgcumbe,  ap- 
peared, called  Maker  Heights,  over  the  nearer  and  darker  scenery,  grey 
from  distance.  In  the  middle  picture,  almost  buried  in  foliage,  Anthony 
House  exhibited  its  roof  and  the  windows  of  some  part  of  the  upper  story. 
We  have  endeavoured  to  give  some  idea  of  this  beautiful  union  of  scenery  in 
the  above  sketch. 

In  crossing  over  we  passed  upon  the  right  Ince  Castle,  anciently  called 
Innes,  once  the  property  of  the  earls  of  Devon,  beautifully  situated  up  the 
Lynher,  and  at  no  great  distance  from  the  ferry.  It  is  a  large  building,  with 
turrets  at  the  angles,  and  was  last  inhabited  by  Edward  Smith,  Esq.  We 
found  it  untenanted ;  Mr.  Smith  belonged  no  more  to  the  living ;  and  here  we 
should  be  wanting,  if  we  did  not  mention  our  respect  for  a  gentleman  of 
science  and  urbanity,  whose  hospitable  reception  of  us  many  years  ago  we 
cannot  forget.  The  ships  of  war  in  ordinary  occupy  the  front  of  the  vignette 
on  the  opposite  page ;  Ince  Castle  is  in  the  distance. 

Anthony  House,  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  Lynher,  is  a  large  mansion, 
charmingly  embosomed  in   woods.      It  was  built  by  Gibbs  in   1721,  in  the 


IOKNWALI,.  8.') 


fashion  of  that  time,  for  Sir  William  Carew.  It  contains  some  good  pictures, 
but  nothing  so  interesting  to  ourselves  as  one  of  Richard  Carew,  at  thirty-two 
years  of  age,  the  honest  and  pleasant  historian  of  his  native  county.  There  is  a 
fine  head  of  Sir  Kenelm  Digby,  by  Vandyke, — and  what  head  of  Vandyke's  is 
not  fine  ? — fine  almost  as  nature  herself.  In  the  church  of  East  Anthony  is  the 
monument  of  Richard  Carew,  with  several  others ;  among  them,  that  of  Lady 
Margery  Arundel,  who  died  in  1420,  consisting  of  her  effigy  engraved  upon  a 
brass  plate.  That  of  Carew,  the  historian,  gives  his  birth  in  1555,  and  his 
death  in  1620.  The  following  verses  were  found  in  his  pocket.  It  appears 
that  he  was  at  prayers  in  his  study  about  four  in  the  afternoon  of  the  6th  of 
November,  1620,  when  struck  by  the  common  destroyer.  His  grandson 
placed  the  lines  in  the  church. 

"  Full  thirteen  fives  of  years  I  toiling  have  o'erpast, 
And  in  the  fourteenth,  weary,  entered  am  at  last ; 
While  rocks,  sands,  storms,  and  leaks,  to  take  my  bark  away, 
By  grief,  troubles,  sorrows,  sickness,  did  assay ; 
And  yet  arrived  I  am  not  at  the  port  of  death, 
The  port  to  everlasting  life  that  openeth ; 
My  time  uncertain,  Lord,  long  cannot  be, 
What's  best  to  me's  unknown,  and  only  known  to  Thee. 
Oh,  by  repentance  and  amendment  grant  that  I 
May  still  live  in  thy  fear,  and  in  thy  favour  die !" 

We  found  here  a  memorial  to  Jane,  relict  of  Sir  Alexander  Carew,  whose 
husband,  while  secretly  making  terms  with  the  Royalists,  he  being  commander 
of  St.  Nicolas'  Island,  in  Plymouth  Sound,  on  behalf  of  the  Parliament,  was  be- 
headed upon  Tower  Hill  for  his  treason,  in  1644  ;  his  widow  survived,  it  appears, 
until  1679.  There  is  also  a  monument  in  this  church  to  the  memory  of  Captain 
Graves,  r.n.  of  Thanks,  who  greatly  distinguished  himself  in  attacking  St.  Jago 
in  1740.  Among  other  effects  of  lightning,  one  is  recorded  as  having 
happened  here  in  1640,  when  fourteen  persons  attending  divine  service  were 
struck  down  by  it  and  injured.  The  view  of  the  port  and  arsenal  of  Plymouth, 
from  the  hill  at  Torpoint,  is  singularly  striking.  Torpoint  is  a  chapelry  of 
Anthony  parish.  The  creeks  of  St.  John  and  Millbrook  intervene  between 
this  village  and  Mount  Edgcumbe.  St.  John's  rectory,  at  the  head  of  the 
creek  of  that  name,  contained  nothing  that  repaid  our  visit ;  so  leaving  Mill- 
brook  on  the  left,  which  we  have  already  mentioned,  we  crossed  over  to  the 


84 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


-  -J?//,? 


sea  in  Whitsun  Bay.  Here  a  noble  expanse  of  ocean  burst  upon  us  in  full 
majesty,  stretching  its  blue  waters  from  the  celebrated  promontory,  called  the 
Rame  Head,  in  a  fine  concave  to  Looe  Island. 

We  had  come  to  this  part 
of  the  shore  to  see  an  arti-  r 

ficial  grotto,  excavated  in  the  -ar*^  J-  W§S&%£b 

cliff,  of  which  we  heard  a 
report  rather  too  glowing  ; 
but  the  magnificent  ocean 
scenery  amply  made  up  for 
any  disappointment  Ave  ex- 
perienced in  regard  to  this 
object.  The  grotto  to  which 
we  allude  is  not  far  from 
Higher  Tregantle  village. 
The  place  is  called  Sharrow. 
There  was  formerly  a  con- 
siderable pilchard  fishery  carried  on  there.  A  lieutenant  in  the  navy,  named 
Lugger,  was  stationed  at  Higher  Tregantle  during  the  American  war,  and 
being  much  troubled  with  the  gout,  had  perseverance  enough  to  cure  himself 
by  a  common-sense  prescription  of  his  own.  The  cliff  at  one  place  goes  down 
perpendicularly  for  twenty  feet,  and  then  projects  in  a  sort  of  platform,  about 
the  same  number  of  feet,  again  descending,  step  fashion,  to  a  considerable  depth. 
In  the  perpendicular  part,  this  officer  began  an  excavation  in  the  schistose  rock, 
and  in  time  completed  a  grotto,  fifteen  feet  long  and  seven  high,  with  a  seat 
round  it.  In  the  centre  he  placed  an  oaken  table,  and  carved  in  the  solid  rock 
sixty-six  lines  of  poetry,  not  very  comprehensible.  They  are  a  description 
of  an  imaginary  palace  hard  by,  and  make  allusions  to  a  fishery  once  carried 
on  in  the  bay.  The  view  from  the  entrance  of  this  grotto  commands  the 
whole  bay,  and  "  Sharrow  Grot"  has  long  been  a  wonder  in  the  neighbour- 
hood.    Still  better,  the  labour  of  the  excavation  cured  Mr.  Lugger's  gout. 

While  standing  beneath  the  arch  at  the  entrance  of  this  grotto,  we  will  just 
sketch  the  history  of  the  mast-like  structure  seen  from  thence  at  the  verge  of 
the  ocean  horizon,  to  the  reflecting  silver  of  which  the  mariner  is  so  deeply 
indebted  for  his  security.  The  Eddystone  rocks  lie  in  a  part  of  the  channel 
off  the  Cornish  coast,  more  than  any  other  dangerous  from  their  position. 
There  are  several  rocks  in  a  very  small  space,  and  close  around  them  is  ten 
fathoms  of  water.  A  single  rock,  higher  than  the  others,  presents  a  perpen- 
dicular front  in  one  direction,  but  to  seaward,  as  indeed  does  the  whole  reef,  it 
slopes  down  under  the  Avaves  Avith  a  smooth  surface :  and  upon  this  rock  the 
light-house  stands.  In  the  year  1696,  a  Mr.  Winstanley  undertook  to  erect  a 
building  which  should  serve  as  a  light-house,  and  render  the  navigation  of  this 
part  of  the  channel  more  secure.     Accordingly,  being  duly  authorized,  and 


CORNWALL.  85 

provided  with  the  materials  he  deemed  necessary,  Winstanley  completed  his  task 
in  about  three  years.  We  have  seen  a  representation  of  this  singular  work, 
and  are  astonished  how  it  resisted  the  action  of  the  sea  for  a  single  winter.  It 
was  constructed  of  timber,  with  numerous  projecting  parts,  which  were  calcu- 
lated to  hold  the  waves,  and  aid  in  its  own  destruction.  The  work  did  stand 
from  1699  to  1703.  In  the  month  of  November,  in  that  year,  some  repairs 
being  imperiously  required,  and  just  completed,  Winstanley  left  the  Barbican 
at  Plymouth  to  proceed  to  the  rock.  As  he  was  embarking  he  was  told  that 
the  sky  portended  bad  Aveather;  and  some  doubts  were  expressed  to  him 
of  the  stability  of  his  work.  Winstanley  came  from  Littlebury  in  Essex ;  and 
it  does  not  appear  probable  that  he  was,  until  too  late,  acquainted  with  the 
fury  of  the  seas  rolling  in  before  a  south-west  gale  in  the  mouth  of  the  channel. 
Piqued  probably  at  what  was  said,  he  observed,  as  he  was  stepping  into  the  boat, 
that  he  only  desired  the  most  violent  storm  that  ever  blew  might  happen  when 
he  was  at  the  light-house ;  so  secure  was  he  of  the  strength  of  his  building. 
The  thing  he  desired  unhappily  occurred.  The  same  night,  the  26th  of 
November,  1703,  there  arose  one  of  the  most  tremendous  storms  ever  experi- 
enced in  that  part  of  England,  not  only  strewing  the  shores  Avith  Avrecks,  but 
doing  much  damage  on  land.*  In  that  storm,  Winstanley  and  his  light-house 
disappeared  for  ever ;  nor  Avas  the  smallest  fragment  of  the  edifice  ever  after- 
Avards  discovered,  save  a  bit  of  iron,  a  cramp,  most  probably,  that  remained 
attached  to  the  rock.  Soon  after  the  destruction  of  the  lioht-house  a  fine 
vessel  Avas  lost  on  these  rocks,  and  every  soul  perished.  In  consequence,  a 
Mr.  Rudyard  undertook  the  task  of  erecting  another  light-house.  He  seems 
to  have  been  an  ingenious  man,  and  to  haAre  combined  both  Avood  and  stone  in 
the  Avork  Avith  considerable  skill.  After  this  second  light-house  had  stood 
aboAre  forty  years  it  Avas  destroyed  by  fire,  and  the  destruction  Avas  attended  by 
several  singular  circumstances.  In  1755,  after  the  Avorkmen  had  been  com- 
pleting some  repairs,  it  Avas  discovered  by  the  man  upon  the  Avatch  to  be  on  fire. 
It  Avas  about  tAVO  o'clock  in  the  morning.  The  man  aroused  his  comrades,  and 
they  did  all  they  could  to  subdue  the  flames ;  but  unfortunately  the  sea  Avas 
seventy  feet  beneath  the  lantern,  Avhere  the  fire  broke  out,  and  they  had  to 
descend  that  distance  for  Avater,  Avhich  afterwards  they  had  to  throAv  four  yards 
higher  than  their  oavii  heads.  The  fire  gained  ground,  but  all  further  exer- 
tions to  subdue  it  were  stayed  by  the  pouring  doAvn  of  the  melted  lead  from 
the  covering  of  the  cupola.      The  man  Avho  Avas  uppermost,    employed  in 

*  From  the  words  of  Winstanley  himself,  a  judgment  may  he  formed  of  the  fury  of  the  seas  in  this 
part  of  the  channel.  lie  says,  in  an  extant  letter,  "  Finding  in  the  winter  of  the  fourth  year  the  effects 
the  sea  had  upon  the  house,  and  burying  the  lantern  at  times,  though  more  than  sixty  feet  high,  early 
in  the  spring  I  encompassed  the  building  with  a  new  work,  four  feet  in  thickness,  from  the  foundation, 
making  all  solid  near  twenty  feet  high ;  and  taking  down  the  upper  part  of  the  first  building,  and 
enlarging  every  part  in  its  proportion,  I  raised  it  forty  feet  higher  than  it  was  at  first,  and  made  it  as 
it  now  appears  ;  and  yet  the  sea,  in  time  of  storms,  flies  in  appearance  one  hundred  feet  above  the 
vane  ;  and  at  times  doth  cover  half  the  side  of  the  house  and  the  lantern,  as  if  it  were  under  water." 


86 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


throwing  the  water,  received  a  good  deal  upon  his  neck  and  shoulders,  and, 
from  looking  up,  the  mouth  at  such  a  time  being  involuntarily  open,  some  of 
the  lead  passed  down  into  his  stomach, — a  tiling  which  he  insisted  upon  was 
the  fact  while  ill  at  Plymouth,  where  he  soon  afterwards  died,  being  ninety- 
four  years  of  age.  Upon  a  post-mortem  examination,  the  poor  man's  notion 
was  found  to  be  correct,  some  ounces  being  taken  from  his  stomach.  The 
rock  afforded  but  a  narrow  ledge  above  the  sea,  beyond  the  base  of  the  light- 
house, to  which,  driven  down  from  story  to  story,  as  the  fire  burned,  the  poor  men 
at  last  descended.  Fortunately,  some  fishermen  of  Cawsand  being  out,  saw 
the  fire,  after  it  had  been  burning  from  two  until  ten  in  the  morning,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  the  rock.  The  sea  was  calm,  but  not  altogether  free  from  the 
ground-swell,  or  undulation  of  the  waves,  which,  during  the  calmest  weather, 
frequently  breaks  upon  the  rock,  forbidding  communication  as  effectually  as 
a  gale  of  wind.  The  poor  men  were  soon  obliged  to  leave  the  ledge  at  the 
base  of  the  light-house,  and  get  into  a  hollow  in  its  side,  it  being  low  water. 
There  they  sought  shelter  from  the  burning  beams,  red-hot  bolts,  and  melted 
lead  that  fell  off  and  threatened  their  destruction,  after  the  lowest  room  was  no 
longer  tenable.  That  room  was  at  a  considerable  height,  as  the  lower  part 
of  the  light-house  was  solid,  and  consisted  of  alternate  layers  of  oak  beams  and 
granite  courses.  Upon  landing  at  Plymouth  one  of  the  poor  fellows,  panic- 
stricken,  fled,  nobody  knew  whither ;  as  he  was  never  heard  of  again. 


The  celebrated  Smeaton  constructed  the  present  building  in  1757.  It  is 
built  of  Cornish  granite,  the  stones  dovetailed  into  each  other,  and  the  first 
course  into  the  rock.  Thus  the  whole  is  a  mass  of  solid  stone,  nearly  a  third  of 
the  way  up  the  building.     Its  strength  is  undoubted :  it  having  resisted  the 


CORNWALL.  87 

most  violent  storms,  a  tremulous  motion  only  having  been  felt,  which  is  a  mere 
vibration  that  would  be  almost  felt  on  a  rock  of  adamant,  in  such  a  singularly 
exposed  situation.  The  graceful  shaft  of  this  work  was  formed  upon  the 
model  of  the  trunk  of  an  oak  tree.  To  the  base  of  the  lantern  the  height  is 
seventy  feet,  and  the  whole  between  eighty  and  ninety.  Such  is  a  brief 
sketch  of  this  noble  work.  To  form  an  idea  of  the  fury  of  the  sea  to  which  it 
is  exposed,  it  must  be  remembered  that  it  is  twelve  miles  from  the  nearest 
land,  opposite  the  eastern  end  of  Whitsun  Bay,  in  full  exposure  to  the  Atlantic 
waves,  that  roll  unbroken  with  majestic  power  towards  these  rocks,  which 
scarcely  appear  above  the  surface  in  fine  weather.  Here  their  proud  crests 
are  stayed,  when  within  a  hundred  or  two  of  yards  they  approach  like  giants 
in  full  consciousness  of  their  strength,  over  a  depth  of  thirty  fathoms.  The 
reef  stretches  north  and  south  about  one  hundred  fathoms,  interrupting  the  dif- 
ferent tidal  sets  in  this  broad  part  of  the  channel,  and  thus  augmenting  the 
fury  of  the  sea  when  in  a  state  of  tempestuous  agitation.  From  this  inclination 
towards  the  south-west  quarter,  the  mountain  waves  in  succession  from  the 
deep  sea  run  up  along  the  slope  of  the  rocks  beneath,  and  break  with  uncon- 
trollable fury.  Imagination  can  conceive  nothing  equal  to  their  violence.  We 
have  seen  them  fly  thirty  or  forty  feet  over  the  ball  of  the  light-house,  above 
the  lantern,  burying  it  in  their  raging  spray,  though  it  is  not  less  than  eighty 
or  ninety  feet  above  thf;  rocks,  and  one  hundred  above  the  ocean  level.  We 
have  seen  the  sea  break  high  up  towards  the  lantern  on  the  day  after  a  hard 
gale,  when  little  wind  has  been  stirring. 

The  position  of  a  light-keeper  here,  some  years  after  the  first  establishment 
of  a  light,  and  when  the  complement  of  light-keepers  was  but  two,  was  a 
singular  one.  The  two  men  attended  to  the  lights  four  hours  alternately. 
One  of  the  two  died,  and  a  signal  was  made  to  the  shore ;  but  the  weather, 
as  is  often  the  case  for  several  weeks,  forbade  any  landing  upon  the  rock.  The 
body  of  the  dead  man  became  offensive.  The  survivor  feared  to  remove  it,  lest 
he  should  be  accused  of  murder ;  and  it  being  a  month  before  the  communica- 
tion could  be  effected,  the  odour  wras  so  offensive  that  it  wTas  with  difficulty  the 
boat's-crew  could  approach  to  fling  it  into  the  waves.  Three  men  were  subse- 
quently kept  upon  the  establishment  of  this  extraordinary  place. 

We  have  adverted  to  encroachments,  no  doubt  effected  for  selfish  purposes, 
upon  the  original  boundaries  of  Cornwall  and  Devonshire,  sometimes  of  the 
most  unaccountable  character.  Thus,  though  separated  by  the  estuary  of  the 
Tamar  from  Devonshire,  a  part  of  Mount  Edgcumbe,  including  the  house,  is 
declared  to  be  in  that  county.  The  little  village  of  Cawsand  is  divided  by  the 
line,  and  locally  by  a  small  gutter,  into  the  villages  of  Cawsand  and  King- 
sand.  This  gutter  a  house  covered,  in  which  an  officer  was  some  years  ago 
said  to  have  taken  up  his  residence,  foiling  the  harpies  of  the  law  by  retiring 
from  his  sitting  to  his  bed-room.  The  whole  parish  of  Maker  is  still  ecclesias- 
tically in  Cornwall,  but  for  civil  purposes  only  apart,  though  originally  it  all 


88 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


belonged  to  that  county,  as  it  does  geographically.  We  shall  not,  therefore, 
essay  a  description  of  Mount  Edgcumbe  here;  it  being  immaterial  within 
which  county  boundary  we  enter  upon  the  task. 

Passing  not  far  from  Maker  tower,  attached  to  the 
parish  church,  used  for  repeating  signals  to  the  port,  and 
keeping  to  the  left,  we  came  to  the  village  of  Cawsand, 
with  its  deep  bay.  We  next  proceeded  to  the  far-famed 
promontory,  called  the  Rame  Head.      The  church-town 


of  Rame  exhibits  nothing  worthy  of  notice,  but  the  head  of  the  promontory 
commands  a  fine  sea  view  all  the  way  to  the  Lizard.  On  its  summit  is  the 
remnant  of  a  vaulted  chapel,  which  serves  for  a  sea  mark. 

We  now  returned  to  Hamoaze,  and  engaged  a  boat  to  St.  Germans.  The 
day  was  fine,  the  air  soft,  the  heavens  one  sheet  of  unsullied  azure,  while  every 
distant  object  came  sharply  out.  The  shadows  of  the  mastless  ships  of  war 
blackened  the  waveless  water  as  they  lay  upon  it  like  slumbering  leviathans, 
while  the  rich  shores  seemed  a  fit  abode  for  happy  spirits.  We  arrived  opposite 
Sheviock  woods  in  the  evening.  These  woods  fringe  the  left  bank  of  the 
Lynher,  ascending.  The  parish  of  Sheviock  contains  but  one  village,  situated 
upon  a  hill,  strangely  enough  named  Crofthole.  It  is  about  five  miles  on  the 
road  from  Torpoint  to  Liskeard.  Nearly  in  the  same  direction,  southwards, 
in  Whitsun  Bay,  is  a  fishing  station,  called  Port  Wrinkle.  A  bridle  road 
leads  along  the  edge  of  the  cliffs  here  as  far  as  Looe.  These  cliffs  are  called 
Batten  Cliffs,  and  it  requires  some  resolution  to  pass  them  on  horseback,  from 
the  path  being  for  some  distance  along  their  verge,  where  a  trivial  deviation 
would  dash  both  horse  and  rider  to  pieces  on  the  crags  beneath.  Sheviock 
church  is  old  and  ugly,  with  a  species  of  cone  in  place  of  a  tower.  It  is  said 
to  have  been  built  by  one  Dauney,  whose  wife  agreed  to  construct  a  barn  hard 
by,  and  that  the  barn  cost  \\d.  more  than  the  church;  which  is  not  unlikely. 
In  this  parish  is  Trethil,  once  belonging  to  the  family  of  Wallis, — a  name 
celebrated  in  the  person  of  Captain  Wallis,  the  discoverer  of  Otaheite ;  whose 
daughter,  the  widow  of  Mr.  Stephens,  of  Tregenna  Castle,  St.  Ives,  is,  we 
believe,  still  living. 


CORNWALL. 


89 


We  landed  a  mile  or  more  from  St.  Germans,  which  is  a  poor  village, 
although  the  parish  is  large,  and  contains  numerous  seats  and  hamlets.  It  is 
worthy  of  notice  principally  for  its  church,  which  was  once  the  cathedral  of 
the  bishopric  of  Cornwall.  This  church  belonged  to  a  priory,  the  revenues  of 
which,  at  the  destruction  of  the  monasteries,  were  valued  at  243/.  8s.  There 
is  a  free  school  here,  endowed  by  Nicolas  Honey. 

The  church  is  built  in  the  Saxon  style  of  architecture,  specimens  of  which 
are  rare  in  the  county ;  and  is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  king  Athelstan. 
The  present  portion  of  the  ancient  building, — for  the  chancel  fell  down  in  1592, 
just  after  the  service  was  concluded,  thus  contracting  the  dimensions ; — the 
present  portion  is  105  feet  long  by  67  broad,  and  consists  of  two  aisles  and  a 
nave.  In  the  part  now  used  as  the  chancel,  there  is  an  ancient  seat,  called  the 
bishop's  chair,  standing  on  a  bit  of  old  tessellated  pavement.  The  north 
aisle  is  divided  from  the  nave  by  five  short  thick  columns.  All  the  capitals 
are  scpuare,  curiously  or- 
namented in  the  Saxon 
manner.  Six  round  arches 
range  above  the  columns, 
apparently  of  the  age  and 
style  of  those  in  St.  Al- 
ban's  abbey.  The  south 
aisle  has  pointed  arches, 
and  is  altogether  of  a  dissi- 
milar order.  Some  painted 
glass  is  yet  remaining  in 
the  windows.  On  the  wall, 
behind  the  gallery,  is  an 
inscription,  containing  the  names  of  the  bishops  of  Cornwall  until  thirty  years 
after  William  I.,  when  the  sees  of  Cornwall  and  Exeter  were  united.  The 
names  are  those  of  St.  Petroe,  Athelstan,  Concanus,  Euidocus,  Udridus,  Briti- 
vinus,  Athelstan,  Wolfi,  Woronus,  Wolocus,  Stidio,  Aldredus,  and  Burwoldus. 
There  are  monuments  here  to  members  of  the  Elliot  family  ;  and  one,  by 
Rysbrack,  to  Edward  Elliot,  is  magnificent.  Walter  Moyle,  of  Bake,  so  well 
known  for  his  learning,  lies  interred  in  this  church  ;  and  there  is  an  acrostical 
epitaph  to  John  Glanville,  unworthy  the  trouble  of  copying.  Not  so  the  fol- 
lowing; lines  to  the  memory  of  Mrs.  Glanville  : — ■ 

"  While  faithful  earth  doth  thy  cold  relies  keep, 
And  soft  as  was  thy  nature  is  thy  sleep, 
Let  here  the  pious,  humble  place  above, 
Witness  a  husband's  grief,  a  husband's  love,— 
Grief  that  no  rolling  years  can  ere  efface, 
And  love  that  o-.ily  -with  himself  must  cease; 
And  let  it  bear  for  thee  this  heartfelt  boast — 
'Twas  he  that  knew  thee  best,  that  loved  thee  most  '■" 

N 


(J0  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

There  is  nothing  worthy  of  remark  in  Port  Elliot,  it  being  altogether  a  plain 
building.  The  house  contains  a  few  good  pictures,  principally  portraits.  The 
estate  has  been  much  improved  since  it  came  into  the  possession  of  the  present 
family,  and  we  were  much  struck  with  the  judicious  manner  in  which  the 
grounds  have  been  arranged.  Wood,  rock,  and  water  combine  to  render  Port 
Elliot  a  pleasing  country-seat.  The  ancient  priory  came  into  the  possession 
of  the  Elliot  family  by  an  exchange  of  property  with  the  Champernounes. 
The  refectory  of  the  priory  is  in  the  space  now  occupied  as  the  dining-room  of 
the  Earl  of  St.  Germans.  The  burying-ground  was  taken  into  the  lawn  of  the 
house  by  the  late  Lord  Elliot,  Avho  obtained  some  power  of  the  bishop  for  that 
purpose,  and  the  sepulchral  memorials  of  course  were  all  removed,  which 
occasioned  much  discontent  among  the  parishioners.  The  parish  is  large,  and 
possesses  many  seats,  generally  of  resident  gentlemen.  Bake,  the  old  resi- 
dence of  the  Moyle  family,  is  now  the  seat  of  Sir  Joseph  Copley.  Catchfrench 
belongs  to  Mr.  Francis  Glanville,  and  lies  a  little  out  of  the  road  from 
Torpoint  to  Liskeard,  a  distance  of  seventeen  miles,  abounding  in  beautiful 
scenery.  Here  are  also  Aldwinnick,  the  seat  of  Mr.  C.  Trelawny ;  and  Cold- 
rinick.  On  the  right  hand,  about  four  miles  from  Liskeard,  stands  the  church 
of  Menheniot,  the  vicinity  of  which  exhibits  much  lovely  scenery  and  valleys 
of  great  picturescpie  beauty.  In  this  parish,  the  house  that  lately  served  as 
the  poor-house,  was  once  the  residence  of  the  ancient  family  of  Trelawny :  it 
is  little  more  than  a  ruin. 

Liskeard  is  a  considerable  town,  situated  on  the  side  and  at  the  foot  of  a 
rocky  hill,  and  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  the  county,  having  been  made  a  free 
borough  by  Richard,  Earl  of  Cornwall,  in  1240.  It  returned  two  members 
to  parliament  from  the  time  of  Edward  I.  to  the  passing  of  the  Reform  Act, 
but  only  one  since.  The  manor  was  part  of  the  possessions  of  the  dukes  of 
Cornwall.  It  had  a  castle,  the  site  of  which  only  remains,  and  a  chapel  in 
what  is  called  the  Park.  There  is  a  grammar  school  here,  endowed  with  30^. 
by  the  corporation ;  and  a  charity-school  for  poor  children,  founded  by  the 
trustees  of  the  Rev.  St.  John  Elliot.  The  church  is  large,  standing  upon  an 
eminence  near  the  eastern  entrance  of  the  town,  with  trees  around.  The 
granite  tower  is  poor,  and  ornamented  with  heads,  fancifully  conceived,  having 
upon  it  the  date  of  1627.  The  church  consists  of  three  aisles,  plain,  and  un- 
derrated, and  is  partly  built  of  granite,  and  partly  of  slate.  The  town-hall, 
originally  erected  in  1707,  has  been  altered  since  in  the  upper  part;  and  is 
supported  upon  granite  columns,  beneath  which  the  market  is  held.  This  hall 
was  recently  strewed  with  rushes  upon  particular  occasions,  as  was  the  custom 
of  old  time.  There  was  once  a  nunnery  here  of  the  Sisters  of  St.  Clare, 
which  is  now  converted  into  dwelling-houses ;  and  there  is  a  well,  called  Pipe 
Well,  considered  to  possess  sanatory  virtues.  The  streets  are  irregular,  but 
well  built  and  clean ;  those  most  devoted  to  purposes  of  trade  are  in  the  lowest 
part  of  the  town,  and  run  nearly  east  and  west,     Here  is  an  open  space  or 


CORNWALL. 


91 


square,  through  which  the  mall-road  passes;  ou  one  side  of  which  stands 
Webb's  hotel,  a  very  fine  establishment,  remarkably  well  kept,  and  without  a 
superior  in  the  county. 

About  four  miles  north-west  of  Liskeard  is  St.  Ncot's  church-town,  having1 
one  of  the  finest  parish  churches  in  the  kingdom.  It  occupies  the  site  of  a 
monastery  that  stood  there  in  the  time  of  Edward  the  Confessor,  all  of  which 
subsequently  disappeared.  The  present  church  is  built  of  granite,  and  is  sup- 
posed to  be  of  the  date  of  1480.  It  stands  in  a  pleasing  vale,  well  wooded 
and  watered.  The  interior 
roof  is  of  wood,  lozenge- 
shaped,  and  ornamented. 
The  building  includes  two 
aisles  and  a  nave.  At 
the  east  end  is  a  stone 
coffer,  once  containing  an 
arm  of  St.  Neot,  left  by 
the  holy  founders  of  St. 
Neot's,  Huntingdonshire, 
when  they  stole  the  rest 
of  the  body  to  carry 
thither,  a.d.  974.  Some 
drunken  workmen,  in 
1795,  rifled  even  this  last 
treasure,  which,  on  being- 
opened,  disclosed  a  hollow 
in  the  wall,  closed  with  a 
stone.  This  hollow  contained  about  a  quart  of  fine  earth,  adhering  in  clots, 
and  of  a  dark  colour.  Some  "  uncouth  rhymes,"  in  praise  of  St.  Neot,  are 
suspended  by  the  side  of  the  relic,  said  to  have  been  written  before  the 
Reformation.  St.  Neot  lived  about  the  year  896,  and  the  painted  windows  in 
this  church,  containing  his  history,  have  made  the  church  renowned.  There 
are  sixteen  windows  in  all.*  Two  contain  representations  of  events  in  the 
Old  Testament,  from  Adam  to  Noah.  A  third  has  the  legend  of  St.  George, 
and  a  fourth  that  of  St.  Neot.  The  remaining  eleven  windows  have  images  of 
saints,  most  of  them  renowned.  The  account  of  St.  Neot  thus  depicted,  repre- 
sents his  retirement,  which  it  is  said  in  the  legend  was  from  a  desire  to  escape 
the  multitudes  that  followed  him.  After  living  in  Cornwall  for  seven  years,  lie 
went  to  Rome,  and  obtained  leave  to  build  a  monastery  here,  which  he  accord- 
ingly finished.  Near  the  monastery  was  a  never-failing  spring.  It  appears 
that  whatever  concerned  St.  Neot  was  the  especial  care  of  heaven ;  he  found 
three  fishes  in  this  spring,  which  his  piety  would  not  suffer  him  to  touch,  until 

*    These  have  been  lately  restored,  at  a   great  expanse,  by   Mr.  Grylls,   to  whom  the  vicarajre 
belongs. 


92 


ENGLAND  IN   THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


he  had  received  supernatural  instructions  why  they  appeared  so  conveniently 
near  to  his  abode.  He,  therefore,  prayed  for  information,  and  an  angel  de- 
scended on  purpose  to  tell  him  that  he  might  make  his  dinner  of  the  aquatic 
fare,  provided  he  ate  but  one  at  a  meal.  If  he  could  be  so  self-denying  he  was 
informed  he  would  ever  continue  to  find  the  number  of  three  kept  up  for  his 
sustenance.  Being  one  day  very  ill,  and  his  appetite  qualmish,  Barms,  his 
faithful  domestic,  thought  of  the  fish,  which  he  might  dress  two  or  three  ways, 
and  meet  his  master's  delicate  stomach  by  one  mode  of  cookery,  if  the  other 
would  not  answer.  He  accordingly  went  to  the  well,  and  taking  two  of  the 
fish,  boiled  one  and  fried  the  other.  Bringing  them  up  on  one  dish,  he  presented 
them  to  St.  Neot,  with  that  concern  natural  to  so  exemplary  a  domestic.  The 
saint,  apprehending  that  mischief  had  been  done  to  the  sacred  fishes,  asked  his 
servant,  with  great  trepidation,  whence  the  fish  came.  Barius,  with  all  the 
innocence  of  one  who  has  done  no  evil  in  his  own  belief,  stated  the  fact,  and 
that  by  the  step  he  had  taken  he  was  in  hopes  to  please  St.  Neot's  palate. 
"  How,"  said  the  indignant  saint,  "  hast  thou  dared  to  violate  an  express 
command,  and  to  take  more  than  one  fish  at  a  time,  presumptuous  fellow  that 
thou  art  ?"  The  saint  then  commanded  Barius  to  take  back  the  fish  and  fling 
them  into  the  spring,  while  he  himself  fell  prostrate  in  prayer,  in  consequence 
of  his  servant's  sin.  Barius  soon  came  back  overjoyed,  and  told  the  saint  that 
the  fish,  although  cooked  two  ways,  and  well  done,  were  no  sooner  thrown 
into  the  water  than  they  disported  about  as  lively  and  active  as  if  they  had 
never  been  grilled  or  boiled  at  all.  St.  Neot,  not  willing  to  lose  his  dinner 
after  such  a  wonderful  event,  sent  his  servant  to  catch  one  of  them  again, 
which,  on  being  cooked  and  served  up,  miraculously  restored  him  to  health. 

We  returned  to  Lis- 
keard,  and  taking  a  road 
on  the  southern  side  of  the 
town,  passed  for  two  miles 
through  a  beautiful,  well 
cultivated,  but  hilly  coun- 
try, until  we  came  to  a 
path-field  shortening  the 
way  to  the  church  of  St. 
Keyne.  From  this  field, 
northwards,  there  is  a  fine 
view  of  Liskeard,  and  the 
towering  granite-crowned 
hills  that  lie  some  miles 
beyond  it.  The  only  house 
near  the  church  of  St.  Keyne  is  an  inn.  The  gates  of  the  church-yard  were 
locked,  and  we  could  discover  nothing  of  the  renowned  well.  We  observed 
a  stone  cross  built  into  the  church-yard  wall,  one  arm  of  which   projected 


CORNWALL. 


93 


beyond  it,  and  gave  ns  no  very  high  idea  of  the  parochial  regard  for  anti- 
quities,— sacred  or  profane.     This  edifice  is  constructed  of  schist. 

We  were  obliged  to  enter  the  inn  to  inquire  our  way  to  the  celebrated  well. 
We  found  two  females  and  several  children,  and  learned  that  the  ancient 
repute  of  the  water,  in  its  own  neighbourhood,  has  not  diminished,  great  faith 
being  still  reposed  in  its  virtue  of  conferring  domestic  authority. 

St.  Keyne,  or  Keyna,  upon  whom  some  bestow  no  very  reputable  character, 
though  others  allow  her  a  considerable  degree  of  piety,  was  daughter  of 
Braganus,  a  prince  of  Brecknockshire,  in  Wales ;  and  being  fond  of  a  wander- 
ing life,  left  her  home  on  a  pilgrimage  to  St.  Michael's  Mount.  St.  Cadoc, 
her  nephew,  about  the  year  590,  set  off  after  his  aunt,  but  could  not  persuade 
her  to  return,  until  she  was  visited  with  an  heavenly  admonition  upon  the 
subject.  Both  saints  were  hospitably  received  in  Cornwall,  and  although 
king  Arthur  was  his  contemporary,  St.  Cadoc  engrossed  a  good  deal  of  the 
public  regard.  Being  thirsty,  as  he  was  going  to  the  Mount,  he  struck  his 
stick  into  the  earth,  and  a  spring  of  pure  water  bubbled  forth,  curing  all  the 
diseased  persons  that  had  due  faith  in  its  efficacy.  The  Cornish,  full  of  grati- 
tude for  such  benefits,  erected  the  church  of  St.  Keyne  to  the  lady,  who,  in 
return,  gave  them  the  well,  so  potent  in  domestic  affairs.  This  well  lies  down 
a  green  lane,  a  good  run  from  the  church ;  it  is  on  the  left  side,  surrounded  by 
foliage.  Over  it  there  are  five  trees,  an  oak,  one  very  noble  elm,  and  three  ash. 
The  water  is  pure  and  well  tasted,  but  the  well  is  of  so  small  a  circumference 
that  there  is  barely  room  for  the  trunks  to  stand.  Bound  it  a  wall  is  raised, 
isolating  it  completely.  It  is  a  puzzle  to  discover  how  the  roots  of  trunks 
six  inches  in  diameter  are  disposed  of,  in 
order  to  obtain  due  nourishment.  One 
of  the  ash  trees  is  dying.  Upon  the 
decay  of  the  previous  trees,  mentioned  in 
1602  by  Carew,  Mr.  Bashleigh,  of  Mena- 
billy,  nearly  a  hundred  years  ago,  planted 
those  which  now  exist.  Carew  gives  the 
following  account  of  the  well  in  rhyme  : — 

"  In  name,  and  shape,  and  quality, 
This  well  is  very  quaint ; 
The  name  to  lot  of  Keyne  befel, — 
No  over  holy  saint. 

"  The  shape,  four  trees  of  divers  kinds, 
Withy,  oak,  elm,  and  ash, 
Make  with  their  roots  an  arched  roof, 
Whose  floor  this  spring  doth  wash. 

"  The  quality,  that  man  or  wife, 

Whose  chance  or  choice  attains, 
First  of  this  sacred  stream  to  drink, 
Thereby  the  mastery  gains." 


. 


94  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

Dr.  Southey  wrote  a  ballad  about  this  well,  too  long  to  quote.  It  concludes1 
with  the  following  stanza : — 

"  I  hastened  as  soon  as  the  wedding  was  o'er, 
And  left  ray  good  wife  in  the  porch ; 
But  i'faith  she  had  been  wiser  than  I, 
For  she  took  a  bottle  to  church !" 

This  was  not  the  case  exactly,  if  the  following  story  be  that  from  which  the 
lake  poet  took  his  subject :  it  is  vouched  to  be  authentic.  A  farmer  not  far 
from  Liskeard  had  two  daughters,  named  Mary  and  Jane.  They  often  talked 
together  about  the  well,  and  the  advantage  it  proffered  ;  yet  both  thought  it 
would  seem  strange  to  set  off  after  the  marriage  rite,  and  leave  their  bride- 
grooms in  the  lurch — the  good  men  too  might  outstrip  them  in  getting  to  the 
well.  Many  were  the  schemes  canvassed  by  the  two  girls  to  compass  an  object 
they  deemed  so  desirable.  Mary  was  of  a  pertinacious  disposition, — firm  and 
unyielding.  Jane  was  a  gentle  creature,  with  perfect  simplicity  of  character ; 
but  both  gave  strong  credit  to  the  virtues  of  St.  Keyne's  well.  Mary's  notion 
of  marriage  was  that  of  a  convenience, — to  secure  herself  a  settlement,  and  to 
be  her  own  mistress.  Jane  thought  nothing  of  herself,  if  she  could  but  be 
certain  of  securing  the  whole  heart  to  the  possession  of  which  she  might 
aspire.  Jane  first  had  a  lover,  and  matters  proceeded  in  the  common  track, 
up  to  the  time  fixed  upon  for  the  marriage.  Mary,  somewhat  piqued  at  her 
sister's  good  fortune,  reminded  her  that,  as  soon  as  the  marriage  ceremony  was 
concluded,  she  was  ready  to  render  her  any  assistance  in  outwitting  her  husband. 
To  the  surprise  of  Mary,  Jane  answered,  that  she  had  told  her  lover  their  secret, 
"  for  how  could  she  keep  any  secret  from  William  ?"  and  that  he  had  bar- 
gained with  her,  and  stipulated  in  return  that  he  would  not  himself  drink  the 
desired  draught.  Mary  was  indignant;  she  upbraided  Jane  with  betraying  their 
secret.  Jane  meekly  replied,  she  could  have  no  secrets  from  him  she  loved. 
Mary  was  sullen  at  the  marriage  dinner,  and  no  longer  reposed  confidence  in 
her  sister;  but  time  wore  off  every  other  consequence  of  this  difference. 

Mary  had  no  lover  for  several  years,  and  had  entered  upon  that  state 
of  womanhood  which  many  liken  in  character  to  the  amphibious.  She  was 
hardly  gone  so  far  as  to  be  beyond  hope  a  confirmed  old  maid,  and  yet  she 
was  young  and  blooming  no  longer.  A  Avidower,  knowing  she  was  a  notable 
housekeeper,  paid  her  his  addresses.  Unfortunately,  he  had  heard  something 
of  the  dispute  about  the  well  between  the  sisters,  but  was  not  aware  of  the 
particulars.  Half  in  jest,  he  one  day  said  to  Mary, — "  So,  my  dear,  you  are 
determined  to  fly  out  of  church  to  the  well  of  St.  Keyne,  after  the  ceremony ; 
I  shall  take  care  you  don't  get  there  first." 

"  Who  can  have  told  you  such  nonsense,  Robert;  —  I  should  like  to  drink 
first,  too." 

"  My  dear  Mary,"  he  replied,  partly  in  jest,  and  partly  in  earnest,  "  recollect 
that  it  is  rule  a  wife  and  have  a  wife,  with  me." 


CORNWALL.  95 

"  I  don't  understand  you,  Robert ;  you  do  not  mean  to  be  a  tyrant,  and  not 
to  love  me  tenderly,  I  hope." 

"  Was  I  a  tyrant,  Mary,  to  the  poor  dear  creature  I  buried  only  last  June  ? 
You  knew  us  both  well  enough  to  answer  that  question  yourself.  Did  I  not 
love  her,  am  I  not  constant,  do  I  not  fondly  cherish  her  memory  ?" 

"  It  is  all  very  Avell  talking,"  replied  Mary ;  who  was  wisely  determined  to 
go  to  the  altar  notwithstanding,  recollecting  her  own  age.  "  He  spoke  of  ruling 
a  wife,"  thought  she  :  "  I  do  not  like  that,  and  I  am  glad  he  let  me  know  so 
much  beforehand." 

Mary  was  more  than  ever  determined  to  secure  both  the  husband  and  the 
authority ;  but  it  was  necessary  to  outwit  her  lover,  and  he  having  extracted 
the  promise  from  her  that  she  would  not,  as  she  had  threatened,  set  off  for  the 
well  when  the  ceremony  was  over,  and  thus  "make  them  appear  foolish  to 
their  neighbours,"  to  use  his  own  words,  she  was  puzzled  how  to  manage 
the  matter;  for  drink  she  was  more  and  more  determined  to  do,  with  her 
characteristic  pertinacity.  The  wedding-day  came ;  the  ceremony  was  con- 
cluded ;  the  party  set  off  for  the  house  of  the  bridegroom's  father,  where  dinner 
was  provided ;  when  Mary  called  Robert  aside,  and  hastily  applying  a  bottle 
to  her  lips,  turned  to  her  husband  and  said,  "  Not  to  appear  foolish  to  our 
neighbours,  my  dear  Robert,  now  we  are  alone  I  may  drink,  you  know ;"  and 
she  applied  the  bottle  hastily  to  her  lips —  then,  holding  it  up  to  Robert,  said, 
"  You  have  a  wife,  rule  her  now,  if  you  can  !" 

Leaving  St.  Keyne's  well,  and  passing  down  into  the  lower  part  of  the 
valley,  the  road  comes  suddenly  upon  the  Looe  river,  which  flows  through  a 
narrow  but  very  beautiful  defile,  well  wooded,  and  abounding  in  picturesque 
sites.  The  hills  look  into  the  recesses  of  the  vales,  so  as  to  admit  of  a  conti- 
nual change  of  scene.  All  around  is  verdant  and  fertile ;  abrupt  eminences 
are  crowned  with  tufted  groves ;  corn-fields  wave ;  and  the  beautiful  cattle  of 
the  sister  county  are  seen  browsing,  at  times,  almost  over  head.  The  little 
river  flows  along,  clear  as  amber,  amid  rocks,  knolls,  and  cottages,  looking  like 
peace  itself.  A  narrow  canal,  from  Liskeard  to  Looe,  runs,  in  some  places, 
parallel  with  the  river ;  but,  owing  to  the  nature  of  the  ground,  in  no  way 
deforms  the  landscape  by  its  stiffness.  We  have  never  seen  a  sweeter  vale ; 
all  so  much  in  miniature,  so  snug  and  narrow,  and  ever  varying.  About 
two  miles  above  Looe  this  beautiful  valley  expands  into  a  fine  estuary,  present- 
ing no  outlet,  and  fringed  with  woods,  clothing  lofty  promontories ;  the  water 
putting  on  the  appearance  of  a  lake.  The  southern  termination  of  this  estuary 
is  in  the  sea,  which  is  concealed  by  a  stupendous  hill ;  near  the  foot  of  which 
are  the  towns  of  East  and  West  Looe,  which  are  beliind  the  fine  old  bridge,  of 
which  the  following  is  a  representation. 

East  and  West  Looe  are  small  towns,  consisting  of  a  few  narrow  streets, 
or  rather  alleys.  In  East  Looe  stands  a  little  chapel,  with  a  low  embattled 
tower,  not  far  from  the  entrance  into  the  river  seawards.     There  is  a  small 


96 


ENGLAND  IN   THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


breastwork  at  the  mouth  of  the  port,  which  has  several  times  been  injured  by 
the  waves,  and  this  alone  protects  the  town  from  their  fury.  Vessels  of  con- 
siderable tonnage  may  enter ;  but  they  must  be  able  to  take  the  ground,  for  at 


low  water  the  harbour  is  almost  dry.  West  Looe  is  situated  at  the  base  of  a 
very  lofty  hill,  over  which,  until  a  new  road  was  made,  the  only  outlet  to  the 
westward  was  almost  inaccessible,  from  its  steepness.  New  roads  have  been 
made  in  other  directions,  and  these  picturesque  towns  are  now  easily  accessible 
from  Torpoint,  Liskeard,  or  Fowey.  They  lie  as  if  at  the  bottom  of  a  huge 
punch-bowl.  Gardens  and  cottages  line  the  hill-sides,  filled  with  shrubs, 
flowers,  and  fruit  trees ;  literally  "  hanging  gardens."  Here  myrtles  bloom, 
and  geraniums  exude  their  fragrance,  throughout  the  year ;  all  is  romantic  and 
striking  to  the  stranger.  West  Looe  is  situated  in  the  parish  of  Talland ; 
East  Looe  in  that  of  St.  Martin.  Some  little  distance  from  the  mouth  of 
the  harbour  is  Looe  Island,  on  which  stood  a  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  George. 
It  is  covered  with  grass,  and  inhabited  only  by  rabbits,  and  is  the  property 
of  the  Trelawny  family.  Sir  Charles  Wager  was  a  native  of  West  Looe.  A 
great  earth  work,  supposed  to  be  Roman,  commences  above  West  Looe,  and 
is  continued  towards  Lostwithiel,  a  distance  of  many  miles. 

The  parish  church  of  St.  Martin,  having  some  remains  of  Saxon  architecture, 
is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  north-east  of  East  Looe.  It  contains  a  monument 
to  the  memory  of  Phillip  Majolue,  a  merchant  of  some  note.  There  is  also  a 
memorial  to  the  Rev.  Jonathan  Toup,  who  wrote  annotations  on  Suidas  and 
Theocritus,  and  was  thirty-four  years  rector  of  the  parish.     He  died  in  1785. 

The  town  of  East  Looe  was  incorporated  in  1567  ;  and  West  Looe  in  1575. 
In  East  Looe  a  mathematical  school  was  founded  in  1716,  under  the  will  of 
John  Spacot,  Esq.  of  Penhale.  There  is  a  town-hall  in  West  Looe,  which 
was  once  a  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  Nicholas ;  all  the  buildings  are  close  to  the 
river.  Morval,  the  manor  of  which  was  once  the  property  of  the  Glynn  family, 
belongs  now  to  Mr.  John  Bullcr.  The  church  stands  near  the  house.  The 
last  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the  old  mansions  of  the  English  gentry.  At  Wring- 
worthy,  near  Morval,   while  the  latter  was  the  property  of  the   Glynns,  a 


CORNWALL.  97 

member  of  that  family  was  barbarously  murdered  by  the  retainers  of  one 
Clemens,  whom  he  had  superseded  as  under-steward  of  the  Duchy  of  Corn- 
Avall.  The  county  seems  to  have  been  kept  in  great  terror  by  this  ruffian ;  for 
the  widow  of  the  murdered  gentleman  petitioned  parliament  that  her  appeal 
might  be  tried  by  a  London  jury,  and  that  in  default  of  the  appearance  of 
Clemens,  he  might  be  dealt  with  as  convicted ;  which  prayer  was  accorded. 
The  inventory  of  the  stock,  which  appears  to  have  comprised  all  the  household 
property  of  Mr.  Glynn,  and  which  was  carried  off,  is  curious,  as  it  shows  of 
what  that  stock  consisted  in  the  house  of  a  gentleman  during  the  fifteenth 
century. 

Opposite  Morval,  a  branch  of  the  Looe  river  runs  up  to  Duloe.  The  church 
contains  a  monument  to  one  of  the  Coleshill  family,  dated  1483.  The  parish 
is  divided  into  the  West,  North,  and  South  districts. 

Not  far  east  from  Duloe  is  the  parish  church  of  Pelyn,  or  Pelynt,  a  spacious 
edifice.  In  this  church  are  some  monuments  of  the  Buller  and  Trelawney 
families,  and  the  following  epitaph : — 

"  Here  lies  an  honest  lawyer;  wot  you  what? — 
A  thing  for  all  the  world  to  wonder  at !" 

The  following  is  inscribed  here  to  the  memory  of  Edward  Trelawney, — an 

anagram  of  the  name : — 

"  O  what  a  bubble,  vapour,  puff  of  breath, 
A  nest  of  worms,  a  lump  of  pallid  earth, 
Is  mud- wall  man :  before  we  mount  on  high, 
We  cope  with  change,  we  wander,  alter,  die .'" 

Trelawn,  the  seat  of  the  Trelawney  family,  is  in  this  parish.  Jonathan 
Trelawney,  who  died  in  1721,  was  one  of  the  seven  bishops  sent  to  the  Tower 
by  James  II.  The  Cornish  were  preparing  to  march,  in  order  to  set  him  free, 
and  the  burthen  of  a  song  current  at  the  time  runs — 

"  And  shall  Trelawney  die  ? 
And  shall  Trelawney  die  ? — 
Twenty  thousand  Cornish  men 
Will  know  the  reason  why  !" 

Toiling  up  the  steep  hill  behind  West  Looe,  the  traveller,  diverging  to  the 
left  upon  the  summit,  reaches  Talland,  with  its  little  cove,  about  two  miles 
distant.  The  church  stands  upon  a  hill  that  goes  down  abruptly  into  the  sea ; 
and  near  it  is  the  manor  house,  surrounded  by  trees,  and  now  ocsupied  by 
a  farmer.  There  was  formerly  a  cell  of  Benedictine  monks  at  Talland. 
About  a  mile  further  on  this  coast  is  Polperro  ;  part  of  which  is  in  this  parish, 
and  part  in  Lansallos,  where  an  ancient  bishop,  St.  Hyldren,  is  buried.  Pol- 
perro possesses  a  secure  port  for  ships  of  150  tons  burthen,  in  one  of  the  most 
romantic  spots  it  is  possible  to  conceive.  Over  the  town  are  some  ruins  of 
a  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  Peter. 

The  inhabitants   support  themselves  principally  by   the  pilchard  fishery, 

o 


98 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


and  the  refuse  of  the.  finny  tribe  is  Buffered  to  accumulate  on  the  dunghills, 
in  order  to  be  used  for  manure,  so  that  the  odour  is  very  offensive. 

The  road  out  of  Pol- 
perro,  towards  Fowey,  is 
through  a  profound  ra- 
vine, which  leads  to  higher 
ground,  and  this  last  ter- 
minates at  Bodinnick  Fer- 
ry, opposite  the  town  of 
FoAvey.  This  ferry  crosses 
one  of  the  safest  and  most 
beautiful  of  harbours,  and 
lies  in  the  parish  of  Lan- 
teglos,  in  the  church  of 
which  parish  are  some 
memorials  to  the  Mohun 
family,  two  of  whom  died 
in  1508  of  the  sweating- 
sickness. 

The  situation  of  Fowey, 
now  only  a  fishing  town, 
is  highly  romantic ;  lying 
upon  its  own  estuary, 
which  is  environed  by  lofty 
wood-crowned  hills,  and 
navigable     for     six    miles 


towards  Lostwithiel.  Op- 
posite Fowey,  but  more  towards  the  entrance  of  the  harbour,  is  the  village 
of  Polruan,  in  Lanteglos  parish,  with  its  creek,  and  over  all  are  the  ruins  of 
a  chapel.  Fowey  consists  chiefly  of  one  long  street,  parallel  with  the  harbour. 
The  houses  are  built  of  stone.  The  hill  to  the  westward  of  the  town  rises  so 
rapidly  as  scarcely  to  allow  the  ascent  of  a  carriage.  Upon  this  hill-side, 
the  church,  a  strong  old  edifice,  with  a  lofty  tower,  stands  at  no  great  distance 
from  the  water.  It  consists  of  three  aisles,  and  may  be  dated  about  the  time 
of  Edward  IV.,  to  judge  from  the  style  of  its  architecture.  The  roof  is 
adorned  with  carved  work  and  figures,  principally  cherubs,  supporting  armorial 
shields.  It  has  a  number  of  memorials  to  different  individuals.  The  best  in 
workmanship,  and  most  singular  in  point  of  inscription,  is  that  to  the  memory 
of  John  Piashleigh,  who  died  in  1581.  This  church  is  dedicated  to  an  Irish 
saint,  the  first  bishop  of  Cork,  who  is  entombed  here ;  his  name  was  St. 
Trim-barrus. 

At  the  termination  of  the  principal  street,  we  entered  by  a  rope-walk  upon 
a  meadowT,  at  the  extremity  of  which  is  a  square  tower,  the  outer  part  wanting; 


CORNWALL. 


9!) 


having  fallen  into  the  sea  within  the  last  thirty  years ;  it  was  the  ancient  defence 
of  the  port.  Farther  on,  passing  several  little  coves,  among  rocky  promontories, 
we  reached  a  second  tower,  upon  which  guns  were  formerly  mounted,  and  to 
these  are  answering  towers  upon  the  opposite,  or  Polruan  side  of  the  harbour. 


The  entrance  from  the  sea  is  narrow,  and  was  once  defended  by  a  chain  drawn 
across.  Nothing  can  be  more  beautiful  than  the  scenery  round  this  lovely 
haven,  so  environed  with  romantic  heights,  and  commingling  every  thing  attrac- 
tive that  can  enhance  the  charm  of  fine  landscape.  The  shores  are  bold;  the 
harbour  safe,  deep,  and  waveless ;  and  the  climate  soft  and  agreeable.  But  the 
days  of  Edward  III.  and  Henry  V.  are  departed,  and  with  them  the  glory  of 
Fowey.  The  contingent  to  the  fleet  of  Edward  on  the  expedition  to  Calais 
from  Fowey  was  greater  in  ships  than  from  any  other  port  in  the  kingdom.* 
Out  of  sixty  vessels  belonging  to  Fowey,  forty -seven  ships  and  seven  hundred 
and  seventy  men  went  with  the  king.  The  Fowey  sailors  were  styled  the 
"  Fowey  gallants,"  and  quartered  their  arms  with  Rye  and  Winchelsea,  from 
the  circumstance  of  refusing  to  "  vaile  their  bonnets"  at  the  command  of  those 
ports  when  they  were  sailing  by  them,  upon  which  the  cinque-port  seamen 
came  out  to  enforce  the  demand,  got  well  beaten,  and  were  obliged  to 
fly  back  into  their  own  harbours.  The  Fowey  men  entering  the  French 
ports,  kept  them  in  constant  alarm.  They  enriched  themselves  both  by  plun- 
der and  trade,  and  the  French  were  so  annoyed  that  they  fitted  out  an  expe- 
dition against  the  town,  which  landed  secretly  at  midnight,  when  they  killed 
all  they  encountered,  setting  it  on  fire.  The  braver  part  of  the  inhabit- 
ants repaired  to  Place  House,  and  resisted  the  French  so  effectually  that  they 
retreated  to  their  ships.  In  the  reign  of  Edward  IV.  the  Fowey  men  were 
accused  of  piratical  practices,  and  of  actual  rebellion  against  the  crown.  A 
burgess  was  executed,  and  the  Dartmouth  men  were  ordered  to  take  away 
their  ships,  a  blow  winch  Fowey  never  recovered;  although,  in  the  reign  of 
Charles  II.,  the  brave  townsmen  saved  a  fleet  of  merchantmen  fi'om  eighty 
Dutch  sail  of  the  line,  beating  off  the  Hollanders  with  the  guns  of  their  little 
towers.  Hugh  Peters,  who  was  executed  for  supporting  the  parliament  cause 
by  the  ministry  of  Charles  II.,  was  a  native  of  this  town. 

*  Yarmouth  sent  forty-three  ;  Dartmouth  thirty-two  ;  Plymouth  twenty -six  ;  London  twenty-five  ; 
Bristol  twenty-two ;  Portsmouth  five.     The  king  had  only  twenty-five  of  his  own  ships. 


100  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

We  have  mentioned  Place  House,  which  is  still  standing.  It  was  the 
property  of  the  Treffrys,  the  male  branch  of  which  becoming  extinct  in  1658, 
the  last  of  the  family  bequeathed  it  to  "William  Toller,  his  nephew,  upon 
condition  of  his  taking  the  name  of  Treffry.  It  is  now  the  property  of 
Mr.  J.  F.  Austen,  who  has  recently  added  Treffry  to  his  former  name, —  a 
gentleman  who  is  carrying  into  effect  considerable  improvements  in  the  vicinity 
of  his  residence,  and  restoring  Place  House  in  perfect  good  taste. 

Not  far  from  Fowey,  to  the  westward,  upon  Tywardreth  Bay,  is  Menabilly, 
the  seat  of  Mr.  William  Rashleigh,  containing  a  most  valuable  collection  of 
minerals,  having  above  1,000  specimens  of  copper  alone.  In  the  grounds 
there  is  an  artificial  grotto :  pebbles,  crystals,  and  shells  are  the  materials  of 
the  building.  The  form  is  octagonal,  and  six  of  the  sides  contain  collections 
of  different  Cornish  ores  of  tin,  silver,  copper,  lead,  and  iron.  Fossils,  agates, 
jaspers,  quartz,  fluor  spar,  together  with  shells,  coralloides,  and  similar  objects 
are  very  appropriately  arranged  among  them.  Here  are  two  links  of  the 
chain  which  was  once  used  to  close  up  the  harbour  of  Fowey  in  the  reign  of 
Edward  IV.,  taken  up  by  some  fishermen,  entangled  in  their  nets ;  the  links 
are  of  a  triangular  shape,  covered  with  shells,  and  the  iron  nearly  decomposed. 
One  of  the  finest  specimens  of  chalcedony  ever  discovered  is  treasured  up  here. 
We  were  much  struck  with  a  beautiful  table  in  the  centre  of  the  grotto,  com- 
posed of  thirty-two  specimens  of  Cornish  granite ;  each  specimen  the  segment 
of  a  circle,  and  very  highly  polished.  Mr.  Rashleigh's  house  stands  near  the 
shore  of  the  bay,  around  which  there  are  extensive  sands ;  at  Tywardreth 
church-town  a  Benedictine  monastery  once  stood.  Many  Roman  coins  have 
been  found  about  the  shores  of  this  bay.  Here  are  the  stream  works  of  Porth, 
which  were  much  injured  by  the  sea  in  1801  ;  they  are  chiefly  remarkable  for 
having  been  worked  before  iron  was  used  for  mining  tools.  Several  of  these 
have  been  found  in  the  works,  shaped  like  pickaxes,  and  made  of  holly,  oak, 
and  box-wood.  There  are  other  villages  in  the  parish,  as  Par,  which  gives  a 
name  to  the  sands  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  Highway,  and  Polkerris.  A  monu- 
ment stands  in  the  church  to  the  memory  of  Thomas  Collins,  the  last  prior  of 
Tywardreth  monastery,  who  died  in  1532. 

Returning  to  Fowey,  and  ascending  the  beautiful  river  of  that  name  to 
Lostwithiel,  we  passed,  on  the  left  hand,  the  church  of  St.  Veep.  In  the 
valleys,  as  we  have  before  observed,  the  wooded  scenery  of  Cornwall  must 
be  sought.  We  have  rarely  seen  a  vale  of  greater  beauty  than  this, — so 
shaded,  tranquil,  and  gracefully  curved.  A  branch  of  this  river  runs  quite  up 
to  St.  Veep,  where  there  was  anciently  a  priory.  Walter  de  Exon,  who  left 
behind  him  the  life  of  the  renowned  Guy  Earl  of  Warwick,  once  resided  there. 
A  monument  stands  in  this  church  to  the  memory  of  William  Bastard,  a  bar- 
rister, who  left  the  tenement  of  Nethercombe  to  the  poor  of  this  parish  and  to 
that  of  Duloe  for  ever.  St.  Winnow's  church  is  beautifully  situated  upon  the 
eastern  side  of  the  river,  at  a  spot  which,  for  picturesque  effect,  may  challenge 


CORNWALL.  101 

any  morceau  of  river  scenery  in  England.     This  church  contains  a  number  of 
monumental  tablets. 

Boconnoc  church  dates  its  erection  about  the  time  of  Henry  VI.  To  the 
disgrace  of  the  parochial  authorities  its  numerous  old  monuments  were  some 
years  ago  taken  down  and  thrust  into  a  vault.  The  whole  interior  is 
defaced, — tracery,  mullions,  and  rood  loft.  One  bit  of  sculpture  that  has 
escaped  the  spoiler's  hand,  is  supposed  to  be  a  votive  tablet  for  the  recovery  of 
a  sick  child.  A  gigantic  figure  (St.  Christopher)  is  watching  over  a  sleeping- 
infant,  while  Death  stands  at  the  foot  of  the  cradle,  at  the  head  of  which  an 
hour-glass  is  in  the  act  of  falling.  There  is  no  tower  to  Boconnoc  church, 
notwithstanding  which  it  contains  three  bells,  suspended  three  feet  from  the 
ground,  in  a  belfry  only  eight  feet  high :  they  are  rung  with  the  foot.  About 
two  miles  northwest  of  this  church  is  that  of  Broadoak,  or  Braddock,  exhibit- 
ing nothing  worthy  of  observation.  Upon  Braddock  Down  a  skirmish 
between  the  troops  of  Charles  I.  and  the  parliamentarians  took  place. 

Boconnoc,  a  fine  seat  in  Boconnoc  parish,  having  been  purchased  by  the 
grandfather  of  the  great  Earl  of  Chatham,  is,  therefore,  connected  with  that 
illustrious  name.  It  is  a  convenient  house,  with  the  finest  grounds  in  the 
county :  the  house  was  began  by  Lord  Mohun,  and  finished  by  Governor  Pitt. 
Boconnoc  has  some  good  paintings,  and  a  fine  bust  of  Lord  Chatham,  under 
which  are  the  following  lines  : — 

"  Her  trophies  faded,  and  reversed  her  spear, 
See  England's  Genius  bend  o'er  Chatham's  bier ; 
Her  sails  no  more  in  every  clime  unfurled, 
Proclaim  her  dictates  to  the  admiring  world. 
No  more  shall  accents  nervous,  bold,  and  strong, 
Flow  in  full  periods  from  his  patriot  tongue  ; 
Yet  shall  the  historic  and  poetic  page, 
Thy  name,  great  shade,  devolve  from  age  to  age — 
Thine  and  thy  country's  fate  congenial  tell, 
By  thee  she  triumphed,  and  by  thee  she  fell." 

The  grounds  of  Boconnoc  are  retired,  varied,  and  broken.  The  little  river 
Lerrin  runs  through  them  into  the  Fowey,  along  a  well-wooded  valley.  The 
timber  is  principally  oak  and  beech.  A  pleasant  ride  has  been  made  among 
the  woods,  six  miles  in  length.  A  lawn  of  100  acres  adjoins  the  park,  which 
last  contains  an  obelisk  to  the  memory  of  Sir  Richard  Lyttleton,  123  feet 
high,  erected  in  1776 :  it  stands  in  the  midst  of  an  old  entrenchment,  cast  up, 
perhaps,  in  1645,  as  a  similar  work,  upon"a  neighbouring  hill,  is  known  to  have 
been  made  by  the  troops  of  Charles  I.  This  monarch,  in  his  struggle  for 
absolute  power  with  the  parliament,  took  up  his  head-quarters  in  the  house; 
and  while  here,  made  a  second  ineffectual  attempt  to  corrupt  the  Earl  of  Essex, 
then  commanding  the  army  of  the  parliament.  There  remains  a  narrative  of 
the  events  which  then  took  place,  corrected  by  the  king's  own  hand.*    Charles 

*  By  Sir  Edward  Walker  ;  it  abundantly  displays  the  inconsistencies  of  Lord  Clarendon's  history. 


102  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

continued  at  Boconnoc  about  a  month,  and  then  quitted  Cornwall  for  ever. 
An  idle  story  has  long  been  current  here  of  the  king's  being  shot  at,  and  that 
the  ball  struck  an  oak  tree  on  which  his  standard  was  displayed.  The  upper 
part  of  this  tree  was  blown  off  in  1783  during  a  storm.  The  king  was 
receiving  the  sacrament,  it  is  said,  as  the  ball  went  through  it ;  and  for  more 
than  a  century,  a  woodpecker's  hole  was  shown  as  the  identical  place.  After 
the  shot  was  fired,  the  tree,  shocked  at  the  event,  would  never  afterwards  put 
forth  any  but  variegated  leaves  !  Now  the  most  minute  accounts  of  the  move- 
ments of  Charles  I.,  and  all  that  happened  to  that  unhappy  monarch,  are 
extant,  written  both  by  friends  and  enemies,  but  no  allusion  is  made  to  such  a 
circumstance.  It  is  probably  another  version  of  a  shot  really  fired  at  the  king, 
when  he  was  at  Hall  Walk,  near  Fowey,  by  which  a  fisherman  was  killed. 

Mr.  Thomas  Pitt,  Governor  of  Madras,  who  died  in  1727,  was  the  purchaser 
of  the  celebrated  Pitt  diamond  in  India.    He  was  the  son  of  a  trader  at  Brentford, 

and  a  native  of  the  west  of  England.  He  purchased 
in  India,  for  the  sum  of  48,000  pagodas,  the  diamond,, 
known  as  the  Pitt  diamond,  for  which  the  Regent  of 
France  gave  135,000/.  It  cost  5,000/.  cutting,  and  the 
chips  and  filings  were  valued  at  7,000/.  The  weight 
is  136g  carats;  and  a  commission  of  French  jewellers 
valued  it  at  12,000,000  of  livres  (about  500,000/.) 
It  is  one  inch  and  one-sixth  long,  and  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  thick,  and  is  among  the  crown  jewels  of 
France.  It  is  here  represented  of  the  exact  size. 
The  slander  uttered  against  Governor  Pitt,  in  consequence  of  his  good  for- 
tune, propagated  by  the  well-known  lines  of  Pope,  supposed  to  refer  to  him, 
induced  that  gentleman  to  vindicate  himself  from  the  charge  of  having  surrep- 
titiously obtained  this  jewel,  by  publishing  the  details  of  the  transaction,  which 
fully  cleared  his  character,  in  the  negotiation,  from  any  thing  but  fair  mercan- 
tile dealing.  The  elder  son  of  Mr.  Thomas  Pitt  was  named  Robert,  and, 
succeeding  his  father  in  possession  of  Boconnoc,  had  three  sons,  the  eldest  of 
whom  was  the  first  Lord  Camelford,  whose  son  fell  in  a  duel ;  and  the  youngest 
the  great  Earl  of  Chatham,  whose  son  William  was  afterwards  Prime  Minister  of 
England.  The  house  and  grounds  of  Boconnoc  became  subsequently  the  pro- 
perty of  the  late  Lord  Grenville,  through  marriage  with  the  Hon.  Anne  Pitt. 

Lostwithiel,  two  or  three  miles  west  of  Boconnoc,  is  a  small  but  ancient 
borough,  partly  in  the  parish  of  its  own  name,  and  partly  in  that  of  Lanlivery. 
We  have  rarely  seen  an  inland  town  more  agreeably  situated ;  lying  in  a  deep 
and  romantic  hollow,  watered  by  the  translucent  river  Fowey,  over  which 
it  has  a  bridge.  This  town  was  made  a  free  borough  by  Richard,  King  of  the 
Romans,  and  sent  members  to  parliament  from  the  time  of  Edward  I.  until  it  was 
disfranchised  under  the  Reform  Act.  It  is  said  that  there  was  once  a  palace 
of  the  Earls  of  Cornwall  in  this  little  town,  but  upon  no  valid  authority ; 


CORNWALL. 


103 


but  the  appearance  of  some  ruins  gives  reason  to 
think  it  might  have  had  a  castle  or  place  of  defence. 
Lostwithiel  has  a  grammar-school,  supported  by 
the  corporation,  as  well  as  one  for  writing ;  and 
there  is  a  school  endowed  by  the  trustees  of  a 
donation  from  Sir  J.  Elliot,  and  also  a  Sunday- 
school.  The  streets  are  three  in  number,  narrow, 
and  ill  paved.  The  houses  are  about  140,  and 
stand  upon  the  high  road  from  Plymouth  to  Truro. 
The  parish  church,  dedicated  to  St.  Bartholomew, 
consists  of  one  large  and  two  small  aisles,  and  was 
erected  in  the  fourteenth  century  :  it  is  adorned 
with  a  fine  spire.  This  church  was  injured  by  an 
explosion  of  gunpowder,  and  was  used  as  a  barrack 
by  the  parliament  army.  Here  is  a  curious  font, 
of  which  Cornwall  retains  many  remarkable  spe- 
cimens :  some  are  evidently  Saxon,  others  Gothic, 
in  style.  We  have  given  four  of  these  fonts.  The 
first  is  at  Landewednack,  the  second  that  which 
we  are  describing,  the  third  at  Padstow,  and  the 
fourth  at  Camborne. 

The  Lostwithiel  font  is  octagonal ;  the  material 
freestone  ;  and  it  is  covered  with  figures  very  ill 
executed.  There  is  a  huntsman  with  a  horn  in  his 
mouth,  and  a  hare  upon  his  finger ;  lions  ;  the  head 
of  an  ape,  with  a  serpent  round  it ;  a  dog,  with  a 
rabbit ;  a  bishop's  head ;  and  the  crucifixion.  A 
stranger  medley  never  decorated  a  vessel  before, 
whether  for*  sacred  or  profane  use.  There  are 
several  monuments  in  the  church.  One  of  the 
time  of  Elizabeth,  with  figui'es  in  relief,  erected  to 
the  memory  of  Temperance  Ken- 
dall, who  died  in  1579,  the  wife 
of  William  Kendall.  The  parish 
is  confined  to  a  portion  of  the 
town,  and  to  a  few  meadows. 
The  shire-hall  is  a  building  of 
great  antiquity,  used  as  a  stan- 
nary court ;  to  which  adjoins  the 
stannary  prison,  the  only  one  in 
the  county. 

A  mile  north  from  Lostwithiel 
are  the  fine  ruins  of  Restorme 


104 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


lighted 
within. 


Castle,  situated  upon  an  eminence,  the  foot  of  which  is  watered  by  the  river 
Fowey.  They  are  beautifully  mantled  with  ivy,  and  surrounded  with  trees. 
This  castle  was  a  residence  of  the  Earls  of  Cornwall.  The  outer  walls  inclose 
a  circular  area  of  110  feet,  and  are  nine  thick:  they  are  surrounded  with  a 

deep  moat,  overgrown  with 
briars.     The  entrance  is  on 
the  south,  under  a  square 
turretted  gateway,  now  in 
ruins.     The  apartments  ex- 
tended round  the  interior, 
against  the  outer  walls,  and 
consisted  of  two  stories  of 
chambers,    mostly 
from     the     court 
There   are    traces   of  two 
staircases,    and    a    chapel, 
twenty-six   feet    long,    by 
seventeen  wide.     We  have 
never  seen  a  ruin  more  com- 
pletely clothed  with  vegeta- 
tion. There  was  once  a  chapel 
in  the  park,  not  far  off,  and 
dedicated  to  the  Trinity. 
Lanhydrock  House,  three  miles  from  this  town,  is  an  old  edifice,  built  of 
granite,  occupying  three  sides  of  a  quadrangle.     Some  of  the  rooms,  orna- 
mented in  a  very  uncouth  manner  with  plaster,  bear  date  1636.     This  was 
once  the  residence  of  the  Robartes,  Barons  Truro,  and  Earls  of  Radnor,  and  is 
now  inhabited  by  the  Agar  family,  who  are  their  representatives.    The  church 
is  a  very  pleasing  little  edifice,  mantled  in  ivy.     Lanlivery,  adjoining  Lost- 
withiel,  is  a  living,  the  property  of  the  Kendall  family  of  Pelyn  in  the  same 
parish,   and  several  monuments  to  different   individuals  of  that  family  are 
erected   there  :— the    earliest   for   Walter  Kendall,  in   1547,    to   whom   the 
advowson  of  the  vicarage  was  first  granted. 

The  distance  to  St.  Austle  from  Lostwithiel  is  eight  miles;  the  road  in  one 
place  almost  touches  upon  the  head  of  Tywardreth  Bay,  by  Par  Creek,  near 
the  church  of  St.  Blazey,  or  Blase,  styled  Fanum  in  the  year  1294,  when  it 
was  taxed  under  that  name.*  Bishop  Blaise  landed  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  say 
the  Cornish  people,  and  his  effigy  is  preserved  in  the  parish ;  yet  as  the  good 
bishop  was  beheaded  a.d.  298,  and  in  1087  the  church  was  not  thus  named, 
this  landing  seems  rather  a  difficult  point  to  establish.  The  church  was  more 
probably  dedicated  to  the  patron  of  the  wool-combers,  some  eight  or  nine 

*  In  this  parish,  where  his  father  kept  a  small  inn,  was  born  Ralph  Allen,  of  Prior  Park,  Bath,  the 
friend  or  Pope  and  Gay,  who  farmed  a  part  of  the  Post-Office  revenue. 


CORNWALL.  105 

hundred  years  after  his  decease.     The  festival  of  Blaise  is  still  kept  on  the 
3d  of  February,  though  the  villages  in  the  parish  have  much  declined  in  popu- 
lation.   St.  Austlc  is  a  poor  town,  but  the  parish  is  populous,  and  extends  over 
10,018  acres.     It  was  so  named  from  St.  Austol,  a  hermit.     The  church,  an 
interesting  fabric,  is  dedicated  to  St.  Austin,  and  decorated  with  all  kinds 
of  sculptural  monstrosities.     The  tower  is  handsome ;  the  second  story  con- 
tains eighteen  statues  in  niches,  richly  ornamented,  resembling  personages  it  is 
not  easy  to  designate.     Various  implements  used  by  miners  are  represented  on 
the  walls  and  seats.     Over  the  south  porch  is  an  inscription,  supposed  to  be 
the  Cornish  words  liy  Du,  "  Give  to  God ;"   a  second  contains  the  letters 
I.  N.  R.  I.,  but  these  interpretations  of  both  inscriptions  have  been  disputed. 
St.  Austle  has  a  small  worsted  manufactory.     In  the  town  pavement  is  a  flat 
stone,  called  the  "Men  gu"  stone;  a  witch  is  said  to  have  been  burned  upon  it, 
and  bargains  were  formerly  made,  and  proclamations  read  over  it,  but  the 
original  purpose  is  unknown.     There  are  several  villages  in  this  parish,  but 
none,  save  that  of  Charlestown,  situated  upon  Tywardreth  Bay,  is  worthy  of 
mention.     This  may  be  called  the  port  of  St.  Austle,  as  it  contains  a  pier  for 
sheltering  vessels,  a  basin,  and  a  number  of  fishing  boats,  with  a  considerable 
trade.     A  large  portion  of  the  clay  found  near  St.  Austle,  called  china  clay, 
but  really  disintegrated  granite  levigated  and  washed,  is  shipped  from  thence 
to  the  manufactories  of  pottery  in  Staffordshire  and  other  parts  of  the  king- 
dom.    Near  St.  Austle  is  the  ancient  tin  mine  of  Polgooth.     To  the  north- 
west of  the  town  is  a  second  singular  tin  work,  called  Carclaze  Mine,  which  is 
open  to  the  day.     Nothing  can  be  more  dreary  than  the  aspect  of  the  earth's 
surface  in  these  districts.      The  Carclaze  mine,  excavated  out  of  a  barren 
hill,  looking  like  a  huge  punch  bowl,   a  mile  in  circuit,  is  from  twenty  to 
thirty  fathoms  deep,  and  though  it  has  been  worked  for  400  years,  is  still  pro- 
ductive, and  still  enlarging  its  enormous  circumference.     The  stamping  of  the 
ores  is  earned  on  within  the  mine. 

The  parishes  of  Luxullian  and  Roche  lie,  the  first  north-north-east,  and  the 
last  north  of  St.  Austle.  The  living  of  Luxullian  belongs  to  Sir  J.  C.  Rash- 
leigh :  that  of  Roche  is  vested  in  trustees,  under  the  will  of  Mr.  Thornton,  of 
Clapham.  It  was  named  Roche  from  a  family  of  that  name,  who  once  held 
the  manor.  About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  church  are  the  celebrated 
Roche  rocks,  breaking  through  the  barren  heaths  around,  upon  the  highest  of 
which  is  a  chapel,  dedicated  to  St.  Michael.  It  was  said  to  have  belonged 
anciently  to  a  hermit,  and  to  have  been  last  tenanted  by  a  leper :  it  forms  a 
striking  object  from  a  great  distance  around.  In  this  parish  also  is  Hens- 
barrow  Hill,  from  whence  there  is  a  most  extensive  view  over  the  country 
from  sea  to  sea.  From  St.  Austle  a  short  railway  goes  to  Pentuan  stream 
work,  near  which  the  stone  of  that  name  is  obtained.  There  are  numer- 
ous barrows  on  the  downs  in  this  neighbourhood;  but  the  curiosity  that 
attracts  the  attention  of  the  superstitious  is  a  phosphoric  or  electrical  light, 


106  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

which  appears  near  the  turnpike  at  Hill  Head,  somewhat  less  than  a  mile 
out  of  the  town.  In  summer  rarely  seen,  it  is  visible  almost  every  night  in 
winter,  and  has  been  so,  from  time  immemorial.  In  general  stationary,  it 
moves  but  little  from  the  spot  Avhere  it  appears,  but  sometimes  mounts 
upward,  and  again  descends.  On  approaching  the  place  where  it  is  observed, 
it  disappears,  though  all  the  while  visible  to  persons  at  a  distance.  The  direc- 
tion has  been  accurately  observed  by  taking  the  angle  at  night,  and  examining 
the  spot  in  the  day ;  but  the  cause  has  never  been  discovered. 

Polgooth  mine  is  on  the  road  to  Truro,  a  mile  or  two  out  of  the  town. 
It  is  in  the  parish  of  St.  Mewan,  the  church  of  which  stands  upon  the  right 
hand  side.  Here,  too,  is  the  celebrated  tin  mine  of  Hewas,  though  part  of  the 
workings  are  in  St.  Ewe  parish,  in  which  several  specimens  of  gold  have  been 
found,  and  traces  of  the  habitations  of  the  Jews  when  they  worked  the  tin 
mines.  The  seat  of  the  Tremayne  family,  called  Heligan,  is  pleasantly  situ- 
ated in  St.  Ewe.  A  hill,  crowned  with  a  singular  mass  of  crags,  from  whence 
there  is  an  extensive  view,  is  a  remarkable  object  in  St.  Mewan,  called  Mewan 
Beacon.  The  church  of  this  parish  is  very  old,  and  terminates  in  a  pointed 
roof  without  pinnacles.  The  traditionary  story  is,  that  by  some  supernatural 
agency  it  was  prevented  from  being  carried  higher,  as  the  largest  stones  laid 
upon  the  building  in  the  day  time,  being  removed  in  the  night  to  a  consider- 
able distance,  the  work  could  never  be  completed. 

Mevagissy  stands  south  of  St.  Austle  about  six  miles,  and  east  of  Tregony 
about  the  same  distance.  This  was  one  of  the  most  noted  fishing  towns  in 
Cornwall,  until  the  visits  of  the  pilchard  to  its  shores  became  less  frequent. 
The  name  is  derived  from  a  couple  of  the  saints  in  which  Cornwall  once  so 
much  abounded, — St.  Mevie  and  St.  Issy.  The  bay  is  truly  fine,  and  opens 
full  east,  disclosing  a  vast  expanse  of  sea  as  far  as  the  Eame  Head.  The  town 
lies  at  the  termination  of  a  very  agreeable  vale,  but  was  difficult  of  access  for 
carriages  until  a  road  was  opened  of  late  years  to  remedy  the  inconvenience. 
The  streets  are  wretchedly  narrow ;  and  from  this  cause  the  fish  are  obliged  to 
be  carried  in  baskets  to  the  cellars,  between  two  men  with  poles  over  their 
shoulders.  Mevagissy  contains  some  good  houses,  and  the  interior  of  the 
humblest  is  remarkable  for  its  cleanliness:  yet  the  odour  of  the  fish  is  not 
prevented  from  being  perceptible  to  the  stranger.  The  fishermen  are  a  fine, 
active,  and  daring  race  of  men,  trained  to  hardship  from  their  boyhood.  They 
have  a  good  pier  to  secure  their  boats,  but  the  harbour  is  dry  at  low  water. 
There  is  no  endowed  charity  in  the  town,  notwithstanding  which,  it  is  amply 
provided  with  schools.  The  church  stands  in  a  sheltered  nook,  out  of  the 
town,  and  is  destitute  of  a  tower :  having  no  peal,  the  sexton  plies  a  hand-bell 
through  the  streets  to  call  the  people  to  divine  service.  A  little  jealousy  in 
their  piscatory  calling  exists  between  the  fishermen  of  Gorran  Haven,  about 
three  miles  distant,  and  those  of  Mevagissy ;  the  Gorran  men  accuse  the  latter  of 
having  sold  their  bells,  for  money  to  pay  for  pulling  down  their  tower;   tradi- 


CORNWALL.  107 

tion  stating  that  a  tower  formerly  existed,  and  disappeared,  nobody  can  tell  by 
what  means.  The  soil  about  this  town  is  fertile,  though  the  surface  is  very 
irregular.  The  manors  of  Pentuan,  Penwarne,  and  Trelevan  stretch  over  the 
entire  parish.  Penwarne  was  the  property  of  Richard  Carew,  the  son  of  the 
historian,  called  the  "One-handed  Carew."  His  hand  being  shot  off  at  the  siege 
of  Ostend,  he  returned  with  it  to  his  quarters  in  the  evening,  when,  presenting 
the  shattered  and  severed  limb  to  his  landlady,  he  observed,  "  There  is  the 
hand  that  cut  the  pudding  this  morning." 

As  Mevagissy  is  one  of  the  Cornish  fishing  towns  most  noted  for  the  capture 
of  the  pilchard,  we  will  now  give  some  account  of  that  important  source  of 
profit  to  the  county,  which  will  prevent  a  recurrence  to  the  subject  hereafter. 
On  the  Avestern  coast,  where  the  high  price  of  corn  and  butcher's  meat  is  out 
of  all  proportion  to  the  labourer's  wages,  he  is  unable  to  obtain  either.  Fish 
and  the  potatoe  plot  constitute  his  sole  dependence.  It  is  to  be  feared  that  the 
potatoe  will,  as  in  Ireland,  soon  become  the  sole  nourishment  of  the  poorer 
class  in  English  counties  where  fish  is  not  to  be  had.  The  dense  population  of 
the  west  of  Cornwall,  in  which  production  can  be  little  increased  beyond  the 
present  limit,  renders  importation  from  a  distance  necessary,  and  adds  the  price 
of  carriage  to  that  of  a  high  market.  In  every  little  cove,  where  it  is  possible, 
some  of  the  families  living  near  contrive  to  keep  among  them  a  boat  for  fish- 
ing, and  thus  they  supply  themselves,  and  are  able  to  dispose  of  the  surplus 
to  their  neighbours.  They  preserve  the  fish  by  salting  or  drying.  Sometimes 
this  resource  is  exhausted,  from  the  continuance  of  stormy  weather  for  weeks 
successively,  and  then  the  condition  of  these  poor  people  is  deplorable  in  the 
extreme.  In  such  cases,  one  of  them,  remarking  on  their  hardships  during 
stormy  seasons,  said  to  us,  "  We  do  the  best  we  can,  though  sometimes  half 
starved." 

But  the  fishery  of  the  pilchard  not  only  gives  the  poor  food  and  employment, 
in  the  season,  but  returns  a  considerable  profit  to  the  capitalist  who  supplies 
the  materiel  for  the  pursuit  upon  a  large  scale.  The  pilchard  resembles  the 
herring  at  the  first  glance,  but  is  shorter.  The  dorsal  fin  is  so  exactly  ad- 
justed, that  it  may  be  balanced,  by  holding  the  extremity  of  the  fin  between 
the  fingers,  of  which  the  herring's  form  will  not  admit ;  the  scales,  too,  adhere 
closer  than  those  of  the  herring.  Whence  this  fish  comes,  or  whither  it  goes, 
is  an  impenetrable  mystery  of  nature's  keeping.  The  pilchard  is  never  found 
so  far  north  as  the  southernmost  part  of  Ireland ;  nor,  indeed,  except  a  stray 
fish,  have  any  been  found  north  of  Cornwall ;  they  sometimes  approach  the 
shore  in  greater  numbers,  and  much  nearer  than  at  others;  most  probably 
coming  northwards  from  the  deeps  of  the  Atlantic.  Their  arrival  is  about 
the  third  week  in  July,  and  they  remain  to  the  end  of  September.  They 
have  numerous  enemies  in  the  fish  of  prey  which  follow  and  devour  them. 
The  grampus,  catfish,  blue  shark,  dog-fish,  and  that  rare  small  species  of 
shark,  called    the    Porbeagle,   about  four  feet    long,    devour  vast   numbers. 


108 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


The  Porbeagle,  of  which  this  engraving  is  a  representation,  belongs  to  the  true 
shark  tribe,  the  sub-genus  Carcharias  of  naturalists. 

St.  Ives  is  upon  the  north  coast 
what  Mevagissy  is  upon  the  south, 
in  this  fishery.  Besides  these  two 
towns,  Looe,  Polperro,  Fowey,  Gor- 
ran  Haven,  St.  Mawes,  Falmouth, 
and  Mounts  Bay,  pursue  the  fishery 
to  a  considerable  extent,  though  not 
at  all  seasons  with  equal  success. 
The  seine,  or  net,  measures  from 
220  to  260  fathoms  long,  or  more 
than  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  is  six- 
teen fathoms  broad  in  the  middle.  It  is  fastened  on  each  side  to  two  stout 
double  ropes,  and  at  each  corner  to  four  strong  warps,  about  fifty  fathoms 
long.  The  upper  edge  is  rendered  buoyant  by  corks,  while  the  lower  is  sunk 
to  the  bottom,  by  lead  weights  attached  to  the  opposite  side.  Thus  when 
thrown  into  the  sea,  it  stands  upright  as  a  wall,  the  lower  side  resting  on  the 
bottom,  lest  the  fish  should  escape  under ;  and  hence  this  kind  of  fishing  is 
only  carried  on  in  fifteen  or  sixteen  fathoms  of  water.  The  net  is  carried  in  a 
boat  of  about  eight  tons  burthen,  and  is  folded  so  as  to  be  thrown  overboard 
by  two  strong  experienced  men,  without  the  least  entanglement ;  one  at  the 
head-rope  or  corked  side,  the  other  at  the  foot-rope  or  leaded  border.  In  the 
seine  boat  there  are  five  rowers  besides  the  bow  oarsman,  who  watches  the 
huer,  and  directs  the  steering  from  his  signals.  The  huer,  from  the  French 
word  huer,  "  to  call,"  or  "  cry  out,"  is  always  a  man  of  great  experience ;  since 
upon  his  judgment  depends  the  success  of  the  fishery.  Before  dawn  he  is 
upon  some  lofty  cliff,  ready  to  observe  the  sea,  just  at  that  part  of  the  summer 
Avhen  a  warm  July  or  August  haze  comes  over  its  surface,  which  the  people 
say,  brings  "  heat  and  pilchards,"  from  their  occurrence  at  the  same  season. 
From  the  cliffs  a  shoal  of  fish  is  readily  perceived  by  an  experienced  eye,  as  it 
is  accompanied  by  a  change  in  the  hue  of  the  water  over  them,  which  is  shaded 
on  the  surface  by  their  uncountable  multitudinousness ;  the  shadow  or  peculiar 
tint  they  cause,  moving  along  with  them.  Perhaps  the  boats  are  close  to  the 
beach,  away  from  the  huer,  and  opposite  the  town,  ready  to  obey  the  signal  of 
their  chief;  and,  except  a  man  or  two  left  to  take  care  of  them  and  watch  the 
huer,  it  is  possible  the  rest  of  the  crews  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  place  may  be 
buried  in  slumber.  The  grey  of  morning  heralds  the  sun's  appearance, — now 
his  disc  is  upon  the  horizon  that  is  streaming  with  the  new-born  light, —  and 
the  huer  may  be  descried  with  his  gaze  directed  over  the  ocean.  In  each  hand 
he  carries  a  green  bough,  with  which  to  telegraph  his  orders.  Morn  advances 
yet  more,  and  the  sun's  orb  bathes  the  eastern  horizon  in  gold, — but  to  the  sun 
the  hucr's  back  is  turned,  his  regard  is  where,  below  him  in  another  direction, 


CORNWALL.  109 

the  wavcless  ocean  sleeps,  like  "  an  unweaned  child."  All  is  silent,  or  the 
silence  is  only  broken  by  the  gentle  soothing  music  of  the  ripple  upon  the 
yellow  sand,  borne  upon  air  "  fresh  as  a  bridegroom."  Still  the  huer  makes 
no  signal;  the  streets  being  yet  voiceless,  and  the  beach  deserted.  On  a 
sudden  he  looks  more  attentively  to  seaward, — looks  again,— shifts  his  position, 
and  looks  still  more  intently, — now  he  sees  the  approaching  shoal.  He  makes 
the  signal  to  the  boats ;  one  of  their  crews,  left  in  charge,  rushes  up  the  beach 
into  the  streets,  crying  "  Havar!  havar  !"*  from  the  old  Cornish  word  "havas,' 
"Found!  found!"  The  word  is  caught  up,  and  rings  from  house  to  house 
along  the  shore.  The  boats  are  fully  manned,  three  in  number,  and  push  off; 
while  many  smaller  craft  along-shore  are  getting  ready  to  follow,  at  the 
proper  time,  to  land  the  fish.  "  One  and  all,"  the  Cornish  watchword,  unites 
the  spectators  and  the  actors  in  the  busy  scene  ;  and  "  Havar,  havar !"  echoes 
among  the  rocks.  The  fine  athletic  form  of  the  huer  is  descried  urging  for- 
ward the  boats,  the  crews  of  which  are  tugging  at  the  oar,  with  all  their 
might.  In  the  first  boat,  manned  by  nine  or  ten  men,  the  seine  is  carried, 
carefully  covered  with  a  tarpaulin ;  the  next  boat  carries  what  is  called  the 
tuck-seine,  with  which  the  fish  are  taken  up  out  of  the  larger  seine,  when  they 
are  hemmed  within  its  meshes ;  the  third,  called  the  lurker  or  cock-boat,  carries 
only  three  or  four  hands.  These  boats  are  well  supplied  with  ropes,  anchors, 
grapnclls,  and  whatever  the  emergency  may  chance  to  require.  The  rowers  tug 
hard  until  they  arrive  opposite  where  the  huer  stands ;  perhaps  a  mile  or  more 
distant.  He  makes  the  signal  for  them  to  anchor,  three  or  four  hundred  yards 
from  the  shore,  off  a  fine  sandy  cove ;  and,  accordingly,  the  seine  and  tuck-seine 
boats  drop  their  anchors ;  but  the  cock-boat  proceeds  to  sea,  in  order  to  recon- 
noitre the  shoal.  The  huer  is  still  intent  upon  his  duties ;  aloof  from  all,  he 
wreighs  the  best  mode  of  proceeding.  To  fulfil  his  office  well,  he  must  possess 
a  quick  eye,  a  placid  temper,  an  active  mind,  be  prompt  in  resources,  be  gifted 
with  strength  of  body  and  the  capacity  of  enduring  great  fatigue ;  he  must 
be  good-humoured  and  sober,  know  how  to  make  his  men  respect  him,  be  per- 
fectly impartial,  and  inflict  fines  for  punishments  upon  his  crews  when  they 
neglect  their  duty,  or  exhibit  marks  of  intoxication.  But  see,  the  shoal  is 
approaching, — the  people  are  crowding  down  to  the  distant  beach ;  many  of 
them  anticipating  the  comforts  a  successful  haul  will  bring  to  them  and  their 
families,  in  the  wages  they  will  receive  for  curing  the  fish ;  the  less  sanguine 
calculating  their  sore  privations,  in  case  of  disappointment. 

For  a  time  all  is  uncertainty ;  at  length  the  huer  sees  a  moment  which  he 
deems  opportune ;  he  makes  the  signal  to  weigh  anchor  and  remove  the  tar- 
paulin from  over  the  seine.  All  is  now  silent,  and  every  eye  is  fixed  upon 
the  chief,  who,  calm  and  collected,  is  too  absorbed  in  his  business  to  employ 
his  thoughts  upon  results  in  place  of  existing  action.     He  is  anxious  that  the 

*  This  cry  is  only  in  the  westernmost  fisheries.  It  has  been  thought  best  not  to  occupy  space  by 
making  local  geographical  distinctions,  when  the  subject  is  generally  applicable. 


110 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


shoal  should  not  give  him  the  slip,  which  too  frequently  happens.  He  makes 
the  signal  to  throw  over  the  seine.  Two  strong  and  stout  seiners  begin  by 
flinging  overboard  the  warps  affixed  to  the  corners  of  the  net,  and  fastened 
to  a  buoy  previously  prepared.  The  rowers,  directed  by  the  bowman  who 
watches  the  huer,  pull  with  all  their  might ;  while  the  two  men  in  the  stern 
sheets,  one  at  the  upper  or  corked  side  of  the  net,  and  the  other  at  the  lower, 
the  warp  being  run  out,  are  flinging  the  net  into  the  sea  to  encircle  the  shoal. 


- 


'- ..,  - .  ..i.i^k._  i 


U>  In  the  mean  time,  the  cock-boat  takes  her  station 

on  the  warp,  between  the  buoy  and  the  net,  her 

crew  incessantly  beating  the  water,  to  prevent  the 

fish  from  taking  that  direction  and  getting  clear  by 

the  head  of  the  seine.     The  seine  being  flung  out, 

the  ends  are  brought  round  so  as  to  meet;  the  fish  being 

enclosed  in  the  circumference,  the  leads  and  lower  side  rest- 

in<T  upon  the  sand  at  the  bottom  of  the  sea.    The  warp  ropes 

are  first  united  close  to  the  network,  and  then  the  ends  of  the 

net  are  lifted,  and  the  net  tied  close  to  the  meshes  from  top  to  bottom,  the 

ties  bein^  about  a  fathom  asunder.    This  is  done  as  rapidly  as  possible,  and  the 

ends  of  the  net  again  dropped.     The  fish  are  now  safe,  and  might  remain  for 

days,  or  even  weeks,  in  security,  unless  a  gale  of  wind  Avere  to  arise.     From 

the  junction  at  the  ends  of  the  net  an  anchor  is  carried  out,  and  two  or  three 

grapnels  from  other  parts  of  the  circumference,  to  prevent  it  from  being  pressed 

upwards  by  the  fish.     The  seiners'  crews,  and  those  of  the  numerous  boats 

that  have  joined  them  from  the  shore,  give  three  huzzas,  by  way  of  salute  to 

the  huer,  who  stands  afar  and  alone  as  before.     These  are  answered  by  the 

people  on  shore,  till  the  cliffs  ring  again.    Nothing  can  be  more  animated  than 

the  scene,  combined  as  it  is  with  the  glories  of  land,  ocean,  and  sky. 

The  next  thing  done  is  to  drop  the  tuck  seine  within  the  larger  net,  in 
order  to  bring  the  fish  to  the  surface,  and  load  the  boats  which  throng  to  the 
spot  to  carry  them  on  shore.  This  generally  takes  place  at  low  water,  and  is 
often  prolonged  into  the  night,   the  soft  moonlight  night  of  summer.     No 


CORNWALL.  1  1  1 

sight  can  be  more  enchantingly  beautiful.  The  tranquil  sea,  broken  by  the 
numerous  oars,  that  seem  sporting  with  brilliants,  heightened  by  contrast  with 
the  black  boats  continually  in  motion  over  its  bosom,  shines  like  one  measure- 
less and  glorious  mirror,  to  where  the  sky  melts  into  its  lustre.  There  is  so 
little  difference  in  Cornwall  between  the  warmth  of  the  night  and  day  at  this 
season,  that  no  chill  damps  the  pleasure  of  the  time  spent  in  watching  the  busy 
labour.  The  fish,  lifted  out  of  their  native  element,  are  literally  poured  into 
the  boats  as  the  tuck  seine  is  emptied,  and  their  white  wet  sides  look  like 
streams  of  liquid  silver.  The  joy  of  human  hearts,  flung  into  the  extreme 
beauty  of  the  picture,  renders  it  one 
of  the  most  interesting  which  ima- 


gination  can  conceive.  Sometimes 
strange  fish  are  found  entangled  in 
the  nets ;  as  this  angel  fish,  or  monk, 
a  shark  of  a  singular  form,  but  a 
rare  species.  The  terrible  white 
shark  seldom  appears,  and  equally 
seldom  the  harmless  basking  shark. 
Sun-fish  are  sometimes  caught  of  a 
large  size. 

Five  hundred  hogsheads  at  once  is  thought  a  fair  capture.  In  one  season, 
60,000  hogsheads  have  been  taken  throughout  the  county;  averaging  each  3,000 
fish,  and  making  in  all  180,000,000.  What  an  infinity  of  production  must 
thus  exist  in  the  ocean  !  The  number  of  fish  in  a  hogshead  will  depend  on  their 
relative  size  from  fatness,  which  differs  much  in  different  years,  running  from 
2,500  to  3,000.  The  fish  are  now  taken  to  the  cellars,  and  placed  in  rows, 
with  a  layer  of  salt  between  each  row.  It  requires  eight  bushels  of  salt  to 
cure  a  hogshead  of  pilchards,  so  as  to  sustain  the  hot  climate  of  Italy,  where 
they  are  often  kept  for  twelve  months.  After  remaining  in  salt  thirty-two 
days  they  are  packed  in  casks,  in  regular  layers,  and  submitted  to  considerable 
pressure.  The  vacancy  thus  caused  is  filled  up,  and  the  fish  pressed  a  second 
time,  and  again  pressed  and  filled.  After  being  submitted  the  third  time  to 
this  process,  the  cask  is  headed,  and  is  fit  for  exportation.  The  pilchard  being- 
very  fat,  is  better  for  this  pressure ;  and  returns  about  a  hogshead  of  oil,  for 
every  twenty  hogsheads  of  fish.  Nearly  half  the  salt  once  used  is  preserved, 
and  used  again  in  the  following  season ;  after  which,  it  is  found  to  be  one  of 
the  best  manures  that  can  be  laid  upon  land,  and  is  readily  sold  for  that  pur- 
pose. A  hogshead  of  this  fish,  called  when  thus  treated,  "  fumades,"  from  the 
Spanish  "  fumados," — is  equal  to  three  barrels  of  herrings,  as  it  contains  four 
hundred  and  a  quarter  of  dried  fish.  The  cost  of  the  boats  and  seine  together 
is  about  1,200/. ;  and  50,000  bushels  of  salt  may  be  the  average  consumption. 
It  is  not  easy  to  discover  the  number  of  persons  employed  in  this  fishery ;  but 
it  must  be  considerable,  though  not  equal  to  several  random  statements  put 


112  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

forth  on  the  subject,  and  that  of  the  capital  employed ;  which  last,  some  cal- 
culate at  above  300,000/.  The  fish  have  been  sold,  from  as  low  as  eighteen 
shillings,  up  to  thirty-six,  the  hogshead.* 

The  herring  fishery  is  principally  carried  on  at  St.  Ives ;  as,  though  abun- 
dant on  the  northern  coast  of  Cornwall,  this  fish  does  not  double  the  Land's 
End,  and  pass  up  the  English  Channel.  Of  other  modes  of  fishing,  there  is  a 
great  variety.  The  driving  net,  it  may  be  as  well  to  observe,  is  only  used 
at  a  distance  from  the  land,  for  fear  of  scattering  the  shoals,  which  it  is  so 
advantageous  to  keep  near  the  shore,  f 

The  church  of  Gorran  is  about  two  miles  from  Mevagissy:  this  parish  is 
bounded  on  the  east  by  the  sea.  There  are  sites  of  entrenched  places  of 
defence  in  this  parish ;  one  near  Portmellin,  a  fishing  cove,  enclosing  about 
100  acres,  on  the  manor  of  Goloures,  not  far  from  the  Deadman  Cape. 
Here  is  a  double  entrenchment,  above  twenty  feet  high,  and  the  remnant  of 
a  mound,  still  called  Castle  Hill.     The  manor  of  Bodrigan,  in  Gorran,  once 

*  One  half  the  salt  used  serves  again  ;  and  that  which  is  spoiled  sells  for  manure,  at  lOd.  the  bushel. 
The  broken  fish  bring  Id. ;  garbage  for  the  soap-boiler,  6d. ;  and  dregs  for  the  currier,  lOtf.  per  gallon. 
The  cask  costs  3s.  Ten  women  salters,  get  lOd.  per  hogshead.  The  seine  men  have  8s.  per  week 
each,  about  seventeen  to  a  seine.  Then  there  is  a  most  onerous  tythe  exacted,  against  reason,  justice, 
and  the  rights  of  humanity ;  for  which  custom  is  pleaded,  that  has  been  made  custom  by  inability  to 
resist  past  exactions;  on  seines  it  is  compromised  for  1/.  13s.  Ad.  per  seine.  In  1769,  no  less  than 
485/.  Is.  8d.  was  paid  for  tythe  ;  the  twelfth  of  the  fruit  of  the  poor  fisherman's  hazardous  labour  is 
extorted  from  him, — an  exaction  which  ought  not  to  exist  in  a  free  country ;  and  which,  if  legally  just, 
is  not  so  morally,  and  ought  to  be  commuted  at  the  public  charge. 

f  The  principal  fresh-water  fish  in  Cornwall  are  trout  and  eels.  Of  trout,  there  are  the  grey,  in 
the  Alan  river ;  the  black,  in  the  Fowey,  sometimes  above  two  feet  long  ;  the  Bartholomew  trout,  in 
the  same  river,  generally  taken  in  August ;  the  Loe  Pool  trout,  a  distinct  species.  The  salmon  pele, 
or  trout,  is  common.  The  salmon  is  taken  in  the  Alan,  the  Tamar,  and  the  Fowey.  The  jack,  perch, 
and  carp  are  not  found,  unless  in  artificial  waters,  stocked  by  individuals.  But  the  ocean  is  the  great 
fish-magazine  of  Cornwall.  There  is  the  whale,  called  the  blower ;  the  grampus,  about  eighteen  feet 
long,  and  weighing  half  a  ton ;  the  porpoise,  dolphin,  blue  shark,  greater  dog-fish,  and  porbeagle,  which 
follow  the  shoals  of  small  fish ;  the  porbeagle  is  commonly  called  the  sea  attorney,  among  fishermen  ; 
the  fox-shark,  called  the  thresher,  from  its  being  frequently  seen  to  belabour  the  grampus  with  its  tail. 
Skates  and  rays  abound,  of  all  kinds,  with  the  three  tailed,  and  a  species  without  spines.  Angel  and 
mermaid  fish,  frog-fish,  sea-devils,  pearl  or  luga-leaf,  turbot,  whiff,  halibut,  sole,  solea  lavis,  called  the 
lanthorn,  from  its  transparency,  congers,  free-eels,  sand-eels,  sea-adders,  needle-fish,  saw-fish,  rock 
and  common  cod,  the  power  or  poor  fish,  whiting-pollock,  rawlin-  pollock,  blind  haddock,  whiting, 
hake,  ling,  tunny,  (a  species  of  mackerel,  weighing  1  cwt.)  common  mackerel,  scad  or  horse  mackerel, 
whistle-fish,  the  dracunculus,  the  draco  marinus,  or  sea-dragon  ;  bass,  mullet,  red  and  grey  ;  surmullet, 
John  Dory,  pipers,  grey,  streaked,  and  red,  and  gurnard  or  rocket,  tub-fish,  the  comber,  herring, 
pilchard,  shad,  sprat  or  sparling;  the  skipper,  girrock,  black-fish,  sea-bream,  wrasse,  butter-fish, 
gold-sinny,  cook,  cookling,  and  father-lasher.  To  enumerate  every  species  would  be  tedious.  The 
turtle  is  sometimes,  but  rarely,  met  with ;  one  has  been  taken  off  the  Land's  End  that  weighed  6  cwt, 
and  another  off  Falmouth,  8  cwt.  Seals  are  common  on  the  northern  coast,  but  are  become  shy  of 
man.  The  principal  shell-fish  are  oysters,  muscles,  cockles,  limpets,  wrinkles,  crabs  of  all  kinds, 
lobsters,  the  long  crab,  shrimps  of  every  variety,  hermit  shrimps,  bernards,  and  scallops.  Of 
zoophytes  on  the  shores  there  is  no  end ;  among  them  are  polypi  of  many  species,  sea-slugs,  sea- 
worms,  sea-nettles,  sea-jellies,  star-fish,  blubbers,  cuttle-fish,  the  luligo,  or  ink-fish,  sea-anemonies, 
in  all  their  varieties. 


• 


■ 


■      ■ 


CORNWALL.  113 

belonged  to  the  distinguished  family  of  that  name,  which  held  large  estates  in 
Cornwall.  The  male  line  was  extinct  in  1330,  but  was  revived  by  one  of  the 
Trenowiths,  who  married  the  heiress,  and  transmitted  the  name  to  Sir  Henry 
Bodrigan,  in  the  time  of  Richard  III.  Sir  Henry,  having  served  the  reigning 
sovereign,  was  attainted  of  treason  by  Henry  VII.,  and  endeavoured  to  con- 
ceal himself  upon  his  estate  of  Bodrigan.  The  emissaries  of  the  king  pursued 
him,  but  aware  of  their  arrival,  he  retired  by  a  back  door,  tradition  says,  pur- 
sued, by  his  neighbours,  Edgcumbe  and  Trevanion,  who  were,  perhaps,  looking 
to  a  share  of  his  estates  in  the  way  of  reward.  From  the  shore  Sir  Henry  got 
into  a  boat,  and  made  his  escape,  and  Edgcumbe  contrived  to  get  a  large  part  of 
the  property.  The  castle  was  a  magnificent  place.  The  chapel,  hall,  and  kitchen 
were  pulled  down  as  late  as  1786.  A  large  barn,  and  a  house,  the  residence 
of  a  farmer,  are  all  that  now  remain.  The  story  of  the  common  people  is, 
that  near  a  barrow,  now  called  Sir  H.  Bodrigan's  castle,  upon  a  swampy  spot 
of  ground,  Trevanion  and  Edgcumbe  defeated  Sir  Henry,  and  that  he  fled  to 
the  edge  of  the  cliif,  a  place  called  to  this  day  "  Bodrigan's  leap,"  whence  he 
sprang  desperately  down  a  hundred  feet,  and  lighting  upon  soft  grass  and 
sand  received  so  little  injury  that  he  was  able  to  get  into  a  boat  lying  near, 
and  to  reach  a  vessel,  which  conveyed  him  to  France.  When  he  got  off  from 
the  shore,  he  tui'ned  round  and  cursed  Trevanion  and  Edgcumbe,  and  their 
posterity ;  and  the  people  say,  Bodrigan's  curse  has  had  its  effect  to  this  hour. 
Sir  Henry  was  a  favourite  of  the  people  for  his  generosity  and  hospitality,  and 
a  century  ago  was  still  spoken  of  with  great  respect  by  the  older  part  of  the 
population,  to  whom  his  history  had  been  transmitted  by  their  fathers. 

St.  Michael  Carhayes,  about  four  miles  from  Mevagissy  and  Tregony,  con- 
tained the  old  seat  of  the  Trevanion  family.  It  was  the  mother  church  of 
St.  Denis  and  St.  Stephen  in  Brannel ;  yet  the  whole  population  is  not  above 
a  hundred.  Trevanion,  or  "  the  town  in  the  hollow  place,"  gave  its  name  to 
the  family  of  Trevanion, — traced  back  six  generations  before  Edward  IV. 
The  male  line  became  extinct  in  1767.  But  there  were  two  sisters  left;  one 
of  whom  married  Dr.  Bettesworth,  and  the  other  Admiral  Byron,  grandfather 
of  the  poet.  The  grandson  of  Dr.  Bettesworth  assumed  the  name  and  arms  of 
Trevanion  in  1801.  The  house  at  Carhayes,  built  by  the  Arundels,  stood  on 
a  hill,  but  was  afterwards  demolished,  and  a  new  one  erected  in  the  valley. 
This  last  was  demolished  in  turn,  and  a  modern  edifice  of  nondescript  gothic, 
from  the  designs  of  the  architect  of  Buckingham  palace,  occupies  its  place, 
erected  at  a  great  expense,  and  not  yet  completed.  The  park  is  fine,  and  the 
vicinity  beautiful.  There  is  a  good  deal  of  wood  on  the  estate.  From  this 
parish  to  the  eastern  side  of  Carrick  Road  the  country  is  very  fertile,  com- 
prising the  parishes  of  Veryan,  St.  Just,  Philleigh,  Gerrans,  St.  Anthony,  and 
the  town  of  St.  Mawes,  of  the  castle  of  which  the  steel  plate  is  a  representation, 
taken  from  the  batteries  under  Pendennis,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  entrance 
into  Carrick  Road  and  Falmouth  Harbour. 

Q 


114  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

St.  Just,  called  St.  Just  in  Roseland*  extends  along  the  side  of  Carrick 
Road  from  Tolvern,  on  the  north,  to  St.  Mawes'  Creek,  at  the  western  extre- 
mity of  which  creek  stands  the  town.     St.  Mawes  is  a  miserable  fishing  place, 
with  a  safe  harbour,  running  some  way  up  the  country.     It  was  a  borough, 
disfranchised  by  the  Reform  Act.     The  castle  was  built  by  Henry  VIII.,  as 
an  inscription  over  the  gate  records.     It  commands  the  eastern  side  of  the 
entrance  to  Falmouth  Harbour,  but  is  a  feeble  work,  in  a  military  sense, 
the  defence  of  the  harbour  depending  on  the  strong  fort  of  Pendennis,  upon  the 
Falmouth  side.     This  parish  is  extremely  fertile.      St.  Anthony  in  Roseland 
is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  creek  to   St.  Mawes,  and  is  four  miles  from 
Falmouth  by  water ;  upon  its   western  point  it  has  a  revolving  light,  very 
useful  to  vessels  approaching  Falmouth  from  seaward.     There  was  formerly  a 
chapel  in  this  parish,  dedicated  to  St.  Anne.     Gerrans,  north  of  St.  Anthony, 
stands   near  a  small  bay,   open  to  the  eastward,    four  miles   north-east   of 
St.  Mawes.     On  Cargurrel,  an  estate  in  this  parish,  there  is  an  old  fortifi- 
cation, called  Dingerein,  supposed  to  have  been  the  residence  of  King  Geren- 
nius,  a.d.  506,  and  consisting  of  the  remnant  of  a  strong  earth  work,  north  of 
Gerrans  church.     A  subterranean  passage  leads  from  these  works  to  the  sea,  cut 
through  the  side  of  a  hill-cliff,  and  now  called  the  Mermaid's  Hole :  it  is  large 
enough  for  a  man  to  enter  upright,  and  runs  about  fifty  yards  inland,  where  it 
contracts  so  that  a  person  must  proceed  further  on  all  fours ;  it  is  considered 
to  have  been  an  old  sally-port.     King  Gerennius   is  supposed  to  be  buried 
in    the    neighbouring    parish    of  Veryan,    where    there    is    still    existing    an 
enormous  barrow,    372    feet  in  circumference.      Veryan   lies  north-east  of 
Gerrans  parish,  eleven  miles  from  Truro ;  and  is  pleasingly  situated,  having 
the    sea    south-west   and   north-east,    with   the    Nare    Head   stretching   out 
between.     At  Portlooe  a  fishery  is  carried  on  in  a  pleasant  cove,   opening 
south-east.     Veryan  church  consists  of  a  nave  and  aisle,  nearly  ecpial  in  size. 
The  pillai's  within  have  inclined  from  the  perpendicular  considerably,  and  arc 
secured  by  iron  bars.     There  are  some  monuments  in  this  church,  —  one  to 
Richard  Trevanion,  governor  of  Pendennis  Castle,  dated  1712;  and  there  is 
a  school,  established  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Trist.     Philly,  or  Filleigh  parish,  lies 
west  of  Veryan,  bounded  northward  by  the  creek  which  runs  up  towards 
Tregony.     The  old  name  of  the  parish  was  Eglos  Ros,  the  "  Heath-church," 
whence  Ros,  or  Roseland.      The   church  is  dedicated  to   St.  Felix.     Ruan 
Lanihorne,  between  this  parish  and  Tregony,  is  noted  for  having  had  for 
its  rector  the   Rev.  John  Whitaker,  the   antiquary  and   historian  of  Man- 
chester.    It  is  seven  miles    east-north-east  of  Truro.     The   name    signifies 
"the  iron  church  near  the  river;"  and  near  the  village  are  some  remains  of 
a  castle,  which  was  unroofed  in  the  time  of  Lcland  the  antiquary.     Several  of 
the  towers  were  standing  subsequent  to  the  commencement  of  the  last  century. 
Not  far  from  the  castle  ruins  was  Trelonk  House,  belonging  to  a  giant  of 
wonderful    dimensions,    according  to   vulgar   tradition,  who   used   to   be   at 


CORNWALL.  115 

continual  war  with  the  owner  of  the  castle,  and  was  a  second  Bluebeard.  The 
combatants  hurled  rocks  at  each  other,  and  disturbed  even  the  elements  with 
their  conflicts.  The  house  is  remembered  to  have  been  a  large,  well-built, 
old  mansion,  castellated,  and  the  approach  well  secured.  The  church  of 
Lanihorne  is  small,  and  was  founded  about  the  year  940.  Nearly  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  creek  lies  the  little  church  of  Lamorran,  or  Lan  Moran,  five  miles 
from  Truro ;  it  is  a  small  living,  the  property  of  Lord  Falmouth.  Cornelly, 
another  parish,  has  its  church-town  a  short  distance  from  the  same  creek,  and 
nearer  to  Tregony.  Trewarthenick,  the  seat  of  the  Gregor  family,  very  beau- 
tifully situated,  lies  in  the  vicinity. 

Tregony,  eight  miles  from  Truro,  is  in  the  parish  of  Cuby,  and  consists  of 
one  street,  of  no  very  striking  appearance.  It  was  disfranchised  under  the 
Reform  Act.  This  town  is  supposed  to  have  been  the  site  of  the  Cenio  of  the 
Romans.  The  old  town  stood  lower  than  the  present,  and  had  a  castle,  of 
which  few  traces  remain,  while  the  Fal  was  once  navigable  quite  up  to  the  houses. 
Tregony  belonged  to  the  family  of  Pomeroy,  and  seems  to  have  had  a  market 
in  the  time  of  Henry  I.  During  the  last  century,  both  Tregony  and  its 
neighbouring  town  of  Grampound  were  more  remarkable  for  borough  corrup- 
tion than  for  any  kind  of  traffic.  By  Lord  Falmouth  Tregony  was  trans- 
ferred to  Lord  de  Dunstanville,  as  the  price  of  his  lordship's  withdrawal  from 
opposition  at  Truro.  It  was  then  sold  to  Mr.  Barwell,  of  Sussex,  and  Sir 
Christopher  Hawkins  possessed  a  portion,  during  which  it  was  the  arena  of 
the  most  violent,  profligate,  and  corrupt  contests.  In  the  church  of  Cuby,  just 
without  the  eastern  end  of  the  town,  there  is  a  monument  to  Hugh  Pomeroy. 
In  Old  Tregony,  on  the  north  of  the  present  town,  there  was  a  church  dedi- 
cated to  St.  James,  of  which  some  fragments  were  remaining  within  memory, 
and  this  rectory  is  held  still  with  the  vicarage  of  Cuby.  The  parish 
church  of  Creed  lies  two  miles  north  from  Tregony ;  it  is  situated  in  a  pretty 
vale,  and  has  some  memorials  of  the  family  of  Quarme  of  Nancor.  The  town 
of  Grampound  stands  on  the  side  of  a  hill ;  it  first  sent  members  to  parliament 
in  the  reign  of  Edward  VI.,  and  received  several  privileges  from  John  of 
Eltham,  Earl  of  Cornwall,  in  1332.  There  is  a  chapel  dedicated  to  St. 
Naunter,  in  this  town,  where  the  rector  of  Creed  performs  the  service  on 
Sunday  afternoons.  A  market-hall  is  situated  at  the  east  end,  and  on  the  Avest 
a  bridge  over  the  Fal  is  crossed  by  the  road  to  Truro,  through  Probus  and 
Tresillian.  The  country  in  the  neighbourhood  is  very  pleasing.  A  new  road 
has  been  made  of  late  years  to  avoid  the  hill  going  out  of  Grampound  towards 
Truro ;  it  falls  into  the  old  road  near  Trewithen,  a  seat  of  the  late  Sir 
Christopher  Hawkins. 

Probus,  three  miles  on  the  road  towards  Truro,  has  a  church  possessing  the 
finest  tower  in  the  county.  Once  called  Lanbrabois,  from  Lan  Probus,  it  was 
held  by  Edward  the  Confessor  himself;  and  the  parish  formerly  boasted  of 
eight  chapels.     The  ancient  family  of  Wolvedon,  united  with  the  Tregians  of 


1  1  6  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

St.  Ewe,  made  this  parish  their  residence,  and  erected  a  noble  house  at  Golden, 
supported  by  an  income  in  their  time  of  3,000/.  per  annum.  Painful  is  the 
history  attached  to  the  head  of  this  family,  affording  a  disgusting  picture  of  the 
execrable  spirit  of  religious  persecution,  during  times  in  which  the  only 
difference  between  the  persecuting  parties  was  that  the  one  burned  and  the 
other  only  hanged  its  victims. 

Near  Probus  there  are  remains  of  encampments,  which  some  attribute  to  the 
Romans,  and  others  to  the  Danes,  perhaps  the  work  of  neither;  these  remains  are 
considerable.  This  church  tower  is  exceedingly  handsome,  built  of  granite, 
and  rising  to  108  feet:  it  is  much  embellished  with  sculpture  both  of  animals 
and  foliage,  and  was  built  in  the  reign  of  Elizabeth.  There  are  two  schools  at 
Probus ;  one  an  endowed  grammar-school,  for  which  Mr.  John  Williams, 
of  Treworgy,  left  10/.  per  annum  in  1688.  There  is  a  holiday  feast  in  this 
parish,  called  "  Probus  and  Grace,"  which  seems  connected  with  that  rarity,  a 
married  saint.  Descending  a  long  hill,  we  came  into  the  road  that  leads  to 
Bodmin  from  Truro,  adopted  of  late  years  to  avoid  an  ascent,  and,  proceeding 
for  some  way  along  a  valley,  we  entered  the  village  of  Tresillian,  where  the  cause 
of  Charles  I.  received  its  final  blow  in  Cornwall  in  1646.  It  once  belonged  to 
the  notorious  Justice  Tresillian,  and  was  given  by  Richard  II.  to  one  Howley, 
who  married  Tresillian's  daughter.  It  is  now  the  property  of  Mr.  Slade  Bennet. 
There  is  a  bridge  here  over  a  stream  that  falls  into  one  of  the  creeks  of 
Falmouth  Harbour.  Cromwell,  with  his  iron  horsemen,  secured  Wadebridge, 
and  Charles's  forces  retired  to  Truro,  Fairfax  following  them  to  this  bridge, 
where  the  royal  army  signed  a  capitulation  in  1646. 

Passing  through  Tresillian,  a  creek  of  the  sea  comes  up  among  wooded 
hills  on  the  left  of  the  road,  and  passing  Pencalenick,  where  the  scenery 
is  very  beautiful,  a  new  cut  from  the  ancient  road,  upon  the  right,  Avinds 
north-westwards,  to  avoid  a  very  steep  hill  descending  into  Truro.  Across 
Tresillian  Creek,  nearly  opposite  Pencalenick,  is  the  small  church  of  Merther, 
in  which  parish  Tresillian  is  situated.  A  monastery  existed  there  formerly, 
of  the  order  of  poor  Clares. 

On  reaching  Truro,  close  to  the  town  on  the  left-hand,  is  Tregols,  the  seat 
of  the  Spry  family.  Truro  is  entered  through  St.  Clement's-street,  so  named 
from  the  parish  in  which  the  street  stands,  being  separated  from  St.  Mary's 
parish  by  the  little  river  Allen,  which  joins  another  stream  at  the  quay,  and 
forms  the  creek  or  river  of  Truro.  A  bridge,  called  the  East  Bridge,  crosses 
the  Allen,  over  which  a  lateral  street  is  continued  from  that  of  St.  Clement 
into  the  heart  of  the  town.  The  duchy-manor  of  Moresk,  the  ancient  site  of 
the  castle  of  that  name  not  being  now  discoverable,  extended  over  all  this  parish. 
The  manor  was  given  by  Edward  the  Black  Prince  to  Sir  Walter  de  Wood- 
land. Penair,  the  seat  of  Captain  Reynolds,  R.N.,  Bodrean,  the  residence  of 
Mr.  H.  P.  Andrews,  Pencalenick,  already  mentioned,  and  Polwhele,  the 
ancient  seat  of  the  Polwhele  family,  are  in  this  parish  ;   but  the  principal  part  of 


CORNWALL. 


17 


the  population  is  within  the  town  or  borough  of  Truro.  The  vicarage  of 
St.  Clement  is  in  the  gift  of  the  crown.  The  church*  is  a  plain  edifice,  con- 
tainino-  nothing'  remarkable,  and  situated  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from 
Truro,  which  is  here  represented  from  the  river. 


Truro  stands  in  a  hollow  among  hills,  and  in  three  parishes ;  that  of  St.  Cle- 
ment has  already  been  mentioned,  separated  from  St.  Mary's  parish  by  the 
little  river  of  St.  Allen,  which  meets  a  stream,  dividing  St.  Mary's  from 
Kenwyn  parish  at  the  quay ;  St.  Mary's  parish  being  confined  to  the  penin- 
sula formed  by  the  two  rivers.f  St.  Mary's  contained  in  1831  about  2,920 
inhabitants.  The  larger  portion  of  the  town  is  in  Kenwyn  parish,  while  that 
in  St.  Clement  is  about  equal  in  population  to  St.  Mary's.  The  united 
population  within  the  town  is,  therefore,  considerable.^     Truro  is  a  town  of 


*  Two  epitaphs  here  "  instruct  the  rustic  moralists  to  die"  in  the  following  lines — 

"  Here  lie  two  little  ones, 
Whose  ears  were  tender  as  their  bones." 
The  second  is  equally  original : — 

"  Father,  and  mother,  and  I, 

Chose  to  be  buried  as  under ; 
Father  and  mother  lies  buried  here, 
And  I  lies  buried  yonder !" 
f  Leland  describes  the  Cornish  capital  much  as  it  stood  within  human  memory.   After  mentioning 
the  main  stream  that  forms  the  river,  he  says :—  "  The  creke  of  Truro  afore  the  very  town  is  devided 
into  two  partes,  and  eche  of  them  hath  a  brook  comming  doun  and  a  bridge,  and  the  town  of  Trurn 
betwixt  them  booth.     The  Whitefriars  house  was  on  the  west  arme  ye  Kenwyn-streete.     Kenwyn- 
streete  is  severed  from  Truru  with  this  arme ;  and  Clemente's-streete  by  est  is  separate  on  the  est 
side  from  Truru  by  the  other  arme.     One  parish  church  in  Truru  self.     Kenwyn  and  Clemente's- 
streetes  hath  several  churchis,  and  here  the  name  of  the  sainctes  of  the  paroch  churchis.     There  is  a 
castelle  a  quarter  of  a  mile  by  west  out  of  Truru,  longging  to  the  Erie  of  Cornwall,  now  clere  down. 
The  site  thereof  is  now  used  for  a  shoting  and  playing  place." 

%  Nearly  10,000,  it  is  presumed,  as  in   1831   they  were  between  8,000  and  9,000,  judging  by  the 
former  decennial  increase. 


118  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

more  remote  antiquity  than  is  generally  reported.  In  1087  it  consisted  of  two 
manors,  called  Trewret  and  Treured;  and  it  is  still  distinguished  as  the 
borough  and  manor  of  Truro.  The  town,  incorporated  by  King  John,  but 
some  accounts  say  by  Henry  I.,  was  styled  the  Burgus  de  Truru.  King  John 
made  it  a  coinage  town  for  tin,  and  it  possesses  a  hall  once  used  for  that  purpose. 
Whether  the  castle  was  built  then  is  unknown,  but  it  was  inhabited  by  Richard 
de  Lacy,  or  Lucy,  in  the  twelfth  century,  and  sent  representatives  to  parlia- 
ment in  the  time  of  Edward  I.  The  mound  upon  which  the  castle  stood,  at 
the  head  of  Pydar-street,  after  being  much  reduced  for  various  purposes,  is  now 
fenced  round,  and  serves  for  a  cattle  market.  From  the  Castle  Hill  the 
church  of  Kenwyn  is  distant  about  half  a  mile,  and  has  been  lately  rebuilt  in 
very  good  taste,  the  fine  old  toAver  still  remaining.  The  view  from  the  church- 
yard is  extensive  and  beautiful. 

This  is  one  of  our  finest  country  towns  of  its  size ;  its  population  and 
buildings  are  on  the  increase ;  while,  from  its  position  at  the  head  of  the  branches 
of  Falmouth  Harbour,  and  standing  about  midway  between  the  two  seas,  it 
must  always  constitute  a  great  central  point.  The  streets  are  numerous  and 
well  built.  Where  Lemon-street  opens  into  the  centre  of  the  town,  there  was 
anciently  a  religious  house  of  Clares,  besides  that  which  stood  north  of 
Kenwyn- street,  being  an  old  Dominican  chapel  and  friary.  Lemon-street 
branches  from  the  main  street  in  the  middle  of  the  town,  and  is  the  outlet  to 
Falmouth,  bearing  near  its  termination  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  one  of 
the  Landers,  who  died  in  Africa.  Both  brothers  were  natives  of  Truro.  The 
western  road  crosses  Avhat  is  called  the  West  Bridge,  and  passes  along 
Kenwyn-street ;  while  the  northern,  leaving  Kenwyn  church  on  the  left,  after 
leading  through  Pydar-street,  runs  directly  to  Piranzabulo.  On  the  right  in 
Pydar-street  is  an  open  space,  in  which  is  situated  a  theatre  and  ball-room, 
built  of  free-stone,  and  decorated  with  medallions  of  Garrick  and  Shakspeare ; 
the  eastern  side  of  the  square,  or  cross,  as  it  is  called,  is  terminated  by  the  ill- 
designed  spire  and  end  of  the  church, — monuments  of  bad  taste,  more  especially 
attached,  as  they  are,  to  one  of  the  most  beautiful  edifices  of  the  time  of 
Henry  VII.  that  remains  in  the  county,  very  much  resembling  that  of  Laun- 
ceston.  Some  fragments  of  painted  glass  in  the  windows  yet  remain,  and 
carry  the  date  1518.  In  the  church  is  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  John 
Robartes,  who  died  in  1614,  and  was  one  of  the  Radnor  family.  There  is  also 
a  monument,  inscribed,  "  To  the  pious  and  well-deserved  memory  of  Owen 
Penals  Phippen,  who  travelled  over  many  parts  of  the  world,  and,  on  the 
24th  of  March,  1620,  was  taken  by  the  Turks,  and  made  captive  in  Algiers. 
He  projected  sundry  plots  for  his  liberty  ;  and  on  the  17th  of  June,  1627,  with 
ten  other  christian  captives,  Dutch  and  French,  (persuaded  by  his  counsel  and 
courage,)  he  began  a  cruel  fight  with  sixty-five  Turks  in  their  own  ship,  which 
lasted  three  hours,  in  which  five  of  his  companions  Avere  slain.  Yet  God  made 
him  conquer;  and  so  he  brought  the  ship  into  Carthagena,  being  of  400  tons, 


CORNWALL.  119 

and  twenty-two  ordnance.  The  king  sent  for  him  to  Madrid  to  see  him ;  he 
was  offered  a  captain's  place  and  the  king's  favour  if  he  would  turn  papist, 
which  he  refused.  He  sold  all  for  6,000/.,  and  returned  into  England,  and 
died  at  Lanoi'an,  17th  March,  1636  :— 

"  Meicomb,  in  Dorset,  was  his  place  of  birth, 
"  Aged  54  ;  and  here  lies  earth  in  earth. 

"  GEORGE    FITZ    PENALS    PHIPPEN. 
"  IPSIUS    FRATER   ET    HUJUS   ECCLESIiE    RECTOR." 

There  is  a  town-hall  and  a  good  market  here ;  the  latter  is  scarcely  large 
enough  for  the  population  of  the  town.  Over  the  market,  removed  from  a 
more  ancient  structure  of  the  same  kind,  which  stood  in  the  centre  of  the 
principal  street,  called  Boscawen-street,  formerly  divided  longitudinally  by  a 
row  of  houses,  is  inscribed — 

"  T.  B:  JENKINS    DANIEL,    MAIOR, 

"  Who  seeks  to  find  eternal  treasure, 
Must  use  no  guise  in  weight  or  measure." — 1615. 

There  is  an  excellent  library,  established  in  1792,  called  the  "  County 
Library."  There  is  also  a  County  Infirmary,  opened  in  1799,  consisting  of  a 
spacious  freestone  building.  A  humane  institution  was  established  in  1812; 
and  one  for  lying-in  women.  The  parliament  of  the  Lord  Warden  of  the 
Stannaries  and  the  Vice- Warden's  courts  are  held  here.  The  endowed 
grammar-school  is  noted  for  having  contributed  to  the  education  of  several  very 
celebrated  public  characters.  It  has  two  exhibitions  of  30/.  per  annum,  founded 
by  the  trustees  of  the  charitable  bequests  of  the  Rev.  St.  John  Elliot;  and  there  is 
a  charity-school,  endowed  with  51.  per  annum  out  of  the  same  bequest ;  and  a  hos- 
pital for  ten  poor  housekeepers,  founded  by  Henry  Williams,  in  1631,  and  en- 
dowed with  land  producing  120/.  a-year.  Foote,  the  comedian,  was  a  native  of 
Truro,  and  born  in  a  house  near  the  coinage-hall,  not,  as  commonly  stated,  at 
what  is  now  the  Red  Lion  Inn.  There  are  two  smelting-houses  for  tin  at  this 
place ;  and  from  hence  much  tin  is  exported,  after  being  cast  into  bars  and 
ingots.  The  coinage  of  tin,  as  practised  for  many  centuries,  has  been  recently 
abolished ;  and  the  duties  upon  that  metal,  due  to  the  Duke  of  Cornwall,  are 
levied  in  a  different  manner,  rendering  the  old  practice  unnecessary.  In 
ancient  times,  by  a  particular  grant,  Truro  possessed  jurisdiction  over  all  the 
harbour,  now  denominated  the  harbour  of  Falmouth  ;  not  that  the  grant  could 
have  recognised  the  Mayor  of  Truro  as  the  Mayor  of  Falmouth,  since  the  latter 
town  did  not  exist  until  after  the  commencement  of  the  seventeenth  century. 
It  is  clear,  therefore,  that  the  visitation  of  the  Heralds  in  1620,  and  their 
statement  of  an  ancient  grant  being  in  existence,  respecting  the  chief  officer 
of  a  place  that  did  not  exist  a  few  years  before,  must  be  either  untrue,  or  refer 
solely  to  the  jurisdiction  over  the  Avaters  forming  the  harbour.* 

*  "  We  find  also  that  the  Mayor  of  Truro  hath  always  been,  and  still  is,  Mayor  of  Falmouth,  as  by 
an  ancient  grant,  now   in  the  custody  of  the   said  Mayor  and  Burgesses,  doth  appear."     Hale  says, 


120 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


The  neighbourhood  of  Truro  is  pleasant ;  the  narrow  wooded  valleys  in  the 
vicinity,  each  with  its  little  brook,  are  charming  seclusions;  while  hill  and 
vale  offer  agreeable  sites,  occupied  by  villas  or  mansions,  and  along  the 
river  there  are  points  of  great  picturesque  beauty.  The  salt  water  falls 
to  Mopas,  at  every  secession  of  the  tide,  nearly  two  miles  lower  down,  and 
there  ships  of  more  than  150  tons  must  unload.  There  is  a  ferry  at  Mopas  to 
the  parish  of  St.  Michael  Penkivel.  Near  this  ferry,  in  1747,  twenty  pounds 
weight  of  Roman  coins  were 
found,  the  largest  number 
and  latest  of  Gallienus  and 
Carious,  or  before  a.d.  284. 
The  scenery  of  Truro  river, 
so  very  beautiful,  termi- 
nates in  Carrick  Road.  Im- 
mediately below  Mopas,  on 
the  eastern  bank,  is  Tre- 
gothnan,  the  seat  of  Lord 
Falmouth,  a  modern  built 
house,  charmingly  situated. 
From  a  creek  of  the  river 
may  be  seen  the  church  of 
St.  Michael  Penkivel,  here 
represented,  in  which  repose 
the  remains  of  the  gallant 
Admiral  Boscawen. 

The  grounds  of  Tregothnan  extend  along  the  eastern  side  of  the  Fal  or  Val. 
Trelissick,  on  the  western,  belongs  to  Lord  Falmouth  as  well  as  Tregothnan. 
Wood  and  water  here  combine  to  decorate  scenery  that  must  be  seen  to  be 
justly  appreciated.  Further  down  are  Feock  church  and  several  country  seats 
in  very  agreeable  and  picturesque  localities. 

Before  proceeding  further,  we  shall  take  notice  of  a  singular  remnant  of 
old  times  in  a  neighbouring  parish,  connected  with  the  ancient  language  and 
literature  of  this  county,  and  of  a  portion  of  Devonshire ;  for  it  appears  that 
the  Cornish  tongue  was  spoken  in  the  South  Hams'  district  in  that  county  as 
late  as  Edward  I.,  although  the  Cornish  were  driven  from  the  Ex,  their  old 
boundary,  to  the  Tamar  three  centuries  before.  Adjoining  the  parish  of 
Kenwyn  is  that  of  Piranzabulon,  which  extends  to  the  sea  on  the  northern 
coast.     It  was  named  Perran,  or  Piran,  from  one  of  those  marvellous  Irish 


"  that  King  John  gave  Truro  the  royalty  over  the  whole  harbour  as  far  as  Caiicke  Road  and  Black 
Rock  Island,  in  consideration  of  twelve  pence  paid  to  the  manor  court."  This  right  Truro  exercised 
for  500  years,  until  one  of  the  Kiligrews  obtained  from  King  Charles  II.  the  transfer  of  the  privilege 
from  Truro  as  an  augmentation  to  the  rectory  of  Falmouth  for  ever.  The  question  was  tried  in  1709, 
and  decided  in  favour  of  Falmouth. 


CORNWALL. 


121 


saints,  who,  when  their  country  was  the  seat  of  all  the  learning  of  the  east  and 
west,  according  to  its  own  Avriters,  but  ages  subsequently  to  its  monarchs 
becoming  related  to  the  Pharaohs  of  Egypt,  by  marriages  at  Memphis,  used  to 
perform  the  most  extraordinary  feats.  St.  Piran,  about  a.d.  460,  fed  ten  Irish 
kings,  with  innumerable  armies,  for  eight  days  upon  three  cows.  He  lived  to  be 
200  years  old  without  sickness ;  restored  both  men  and  animals  to  life  ;  and  full 
of  years  and  miracles,  at  last  determined  to  honour  Cornwall.  To  render  his 
mission  more  striking,  he  embarked  upon  a  mill-stone,  and  safely  reached  what 
is  now  Piranzabulo,  or  else  Padstow,  (antiquaries  have  not  yet  agreed  which.) 
In  Cornwall  he  became  the  patron  of  the  tinners,  who  keep  his  feast  on  the  5th 
of  March  ;  and  he  left  a  well  to  them,  long  held  sacred,  called  Fenton  Berran, 
or  St.  Piran's  Well,  not  to  be  confounded  with  a  parish  of  that  name.  It  is 
even  now  of  potent  efficacy  in  curing  rickets  and  other  diseases  to  those  who 
have  faith  in  the  miracles  of  St.  Piran,  or  St.  Perran.  In  this  parish  there  is 
found  the  largest  Plaen  an  auare,  or  amphitheatre,  used  for  the  performance  of 
miracle-plays,  which  time  has  spared.  There  is  another  in  St.  Just,  in  Penwith, 
with  stone  seats,  but  the  present  is  of  turf,  and  called  "  Piran  Round."  Of 
this  structure  the  following  is  a  correct  repi-esentation. 

A  represents  the  area  of  the 
amphitheatre,  one  hundred  and 
thirty  feet  in  diameter.  B  the 
benches,  in  number  seven.  As  the 
rise  of  these  is  but  a  foot,  it  is 
evident  they  were  formed  for 
standing  rather  than  sitting.  C 
is  the  top  of  the  rampart,  seven 
feet  wide,  on  which  spectators 
might  stand  three  or  four  deep.  The 
outer  slope  of  the  rampart  goes 
down  into  a  ditch,  D,  from  whence 
the  earth  was  taken  of  which  it 
is  made.  Within  the  area  is  a 
foss  or  pit,  E,  three  feet  deep  by 
thirteen  in  diameter,  and  round  it  is  a  seat  or  bench  of  turf.  F  is  a  trench, 
running  from  this  pit  to  the  seats  where  the  spectators  were  placed,  four 
feet  six  inches  wide,  and  one  foot  deep,  terminating  in  a  semi-oval  recess, 
eleven  feet  long  by  nine  wide,  making  a  breach  in  the  seats  or  steps.  Most 
likely  the  pit  E  served  as  an  orchestra,  and  the  passage  E  was  covered, 
and  led  to  the  place,  G,  where  the  performers  retired,  which  was  probably 
covered  also ;  perhaps  this  pit  represented  the  infernal  regions.  The  perform- 
ances, no  doubt,  took  place  over  the  whole  plane  of  the  amphitheatre,  from 
every  part  of  which  the  actors  would  be  visible  to  the  spectators.  There  are 
two  breaches  in  the  seats,  H  H,  which  leads  to  the  supposition  that  there  were 

R 


j£a 


122  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

two  entrances ;  but  the  amphitheatre  at  St.  Just  shows  but  one  entrance ;  and 
one  of  the  present  openings  appeared  to  us  as  if  it  had  been  made  for  a  common 

foot-path,  long  since  the 
amphitheatre  had  ceased  to 
be  used  for  miracle-plays. 

"^^^^^^B^Bfe^'^^^^^^lif  ^e  naye  engraved  a  sec- 

r7-flll  ':'"!^1  Bfl'ft ■■"«i'>  •>  tion  of  this  "  Round." 

ll^X^a , i,;.!.!..!,. :.i:  .'iliiBilk        We  made  a  calculation, 

^^*^^^^  ^^^r^P"^.  >     "  *is=r^  1  ly  taking  the  circumference 

of  the  lower  step  or  seat, 
and  giving  the  recession  of  the  seats,  and  consequently  the  larger  diameter  of  the 
uppermost  to  balance  the  entrance  and  pit,  the  spectators  supposed  not  to  be 
seated,  and  allowing  twenty-two  inches  for  each  person,  that  this  amphi- 
theatre, with  seven  rows  standing  on  the  steps,  one  line  at  the  bottom,  and 
two  on  the  summit,  would  hold  2,200  persons,  and  not  be  crowded.  That  the 
spectators  stood  is  evident  from  the  lowness  of  the  steps,  which  just  permits 
one  line  to  look  over  the  heads  of  that  before  it.  To  this  day  in  Cornwall 
every  thing  noted  in  the  way  of  exhibition  is  called  a  miracle-play.  From  a 
passage  in  one  of  these  plays,  written  400  years  ago,  it  is  a  fair  point  of  doubt 
whether  the  Cornish  believed  in  transubstantiation.  With  the  order  of 
bishops  they  seem  to  have  dealt  very  cavalierly.* 

Of  writers  before  the  Cornish  language  was  extinct,  there  was  Hucarius  of 
the  abbey  of  St.  Germans,  in  1040;  he  left  one  hundred  and  ten  sermons, 
and  was  a  holy  and  learned  man.  Geraldus  Cornubiensis,  who  lived  about 
1150,  left  a  MS.  in  Latin,  now  among  the  Cotton  MSS.  In  1170,  John  of 
Cornwall  was  a  favourite  with  Pope  Alexander  III.  ;  he  wrote  concerning 
Christ's  Incarnation  (De  Incarnatione  Christi)  against  Peter  the  Lombard ; 
Bali,  in  Lelancl,  says  he  nourished  in  1173;  he  was  styled  a  catholic  doctor. 
Simon  Thurnay  nourished  at  Oxford  in  1200,  on  whom  a  supernatural  judg- 
ment fell  for  his  pride  in  his  great  learning.  Michael  Cornubiensis,  a  Cornish 
poet,  flourished  in  the  time  of  Henry  IV. ;  his  name  is  also  given  as  Michael 
Blaunpayne;  he  wrote  Latin  verse,  and  well  too;  he  lived  in  1250.  The 
epigram,  of  which  the  following  is  a  translation,  was  written  by  Michael, 
upon  the  jester  of  Henry  IV.,  who  abused  Cornwall : — 

"  Gambed  like  a  goat,  sparrow-thigh'd,  side  as  boar, 

Hare-mouth 'd,  dog-nosed,  like  mule  thy  teeth  and  chin ; 
An  old  -wife's  brow,  bull-headed,  black  as  moor ; — 

If  such  without,  what  then  are  you  within  ? 
By  these  my  signs  the  wise  will  truly  conster, 
How  little  thou  dost  differ  from  a  monster  !" 


*  There  was  a  Plaen  an  guare  near  Redruth,  now  nearly  destroyed  ;  another  on  the  Lizard  Downs, 
near  Landewednack, — a  road  runs  through  the  middle, — it  is  117  feet  in  diameter.  In  Ruan  Major 
was  one  of  sixty-six  feet,  and  in  Ruan  Minor  one  of  ninety-three  feet  in  diameter,  of  which  the  turn- 
pike-road cuts  off  a  portion.     They  are  all  found  in  the  western  part  of  the  county. 


CORNWALL.  123 

* 

Iii  other  verses  he  describes  Cornwall,  at  that  remote  time,  as  it  is  at 
present, — "  No  sea  so  full  of  fish  ;  of  tin  no  shore."  He  also  says  that  King 
Arthur  always  put  his  Cornish  men  in  the  front  of  the  battle.  Michael 
begged  an  exhibition  of  Henry  in  some  Latin  lines.*  From  many  of  his 
verses  preserved  in  Camden  he  seems,  for  his  time,  to  have  been  no  contemp- 
tible poet.  One  Thomas  Farnabie,  Mayor  of  Truro,  born  in  1575,  was  a 
student  of  Merton  College,  Oxford,  and  left  some  learned  notes  and  annota- 
tions, with  the  "  Anthology  of  Greek  Epigrams,  and  a  Latin  translation." 
A  comic  pastoral  in  Cornish  is  extant  ;f  and  the  late  Mr.  D.  Gilbert  has 
printed  all  the  Cornish  MSS.  that  have  been  found  translated.  J  It  appears 
that  in  the  Bodleian  Library,  Oxford,  are  two  MSS.;  one  on  parchment,  con- 
taining three  interludes,  or  ordinalia ;  the  first  treating  of  the  "Creation  of 
the  World,"  the  second  of  the  "  Holy  Passion,"  and  the  third  of  the  "  Resur- 
rection." The  second  MS.,  on  paper,  contains  one  ordinate,  "Of  the  Creation 
of  the  World  and  the  Deluge,"  and  was  written  by  William  Jordan,  1611. 
A  third  work  existed,  entitled  "  Mount  Calvary,"  of  much  higher  antiquity  ; 
and  all  were  translated  by  Mr.  Keigwin,  about  1680.  Unfortunately  the 
translation  of  "  Mount  Calvary,"  and  that  of  the  "  Creation,"  by  Jordan,  alone 
can  now  be  found  ;  and  these  Mr.  Gilbert  has  preserved  by  his  edition  of  them. 
Jordan  was  a  native  of  Helston.  In  the  death  of  a  lano;uao;e  there  is  some- 
thing  painfully  striking;  as  being  the  medium  through  which  for  perished  ages 

*  "  Regia  rector,  miles  vt  Hector,  dux  vt  Achilles, 

Tequia  sector,  melle  vector,  mel  mihi  stilles !" 

t  The  following  are  two  of  the  stanzas : — 

"  Pray  whither  so  trippingly,  pretty  fair  maid, 

With  your  face  rosy  white,  and  your  soft  yellow  hair?" 
"  Sweet  sir,  to  the  well  in  the  summer-wood  shade, 

For  strawberry  leaves  make  the  young  maiden  fair." 

"  Shall  I  go  with  you,  pretty  fair  maid,  to  the  wood, 

With  your  face  rosy  white,  and  your  soft  yellow  hair?" 

"  Sweet  sir,  if  you  please,  it  will  do  my  heart  good, 

For  strawberry  leaves  make  the  young  maiden  fair." 

CORNISH. 

"  Pelea  era  why  moaz  moz,  fettow,  teag, 

Gen  agaz  bedgeth  gwin,  ha  agaz  blew  mellyn  ?" 
"  Mi  a  moaz  tha'n  venton,  sarra  wheag, 

Rag  delkiow  sevi  gwra  muzi  teag." 

'"  Pea  ve  moaz  gen  a  why,  moz,  fettow,  teag, 

Gen  agaz  bedgeth  gwin,  ha  agaz  blew  mellyn?" 
"  Greuh  mena  why,  sarra  wheag, 

Rag  delkiow  sevi  gwra  muzi  teag." 

There  is  a  notion  that  strawberry  leaves  improve  the  freshness  of  the  complexion  by  rubbing  them 
on  the  skin. 

%  "  Mount  Calvary,"  8vo,  and  the  "Creation  of  the  World."    Edited  by  D.  Gilbert,  Esq.  1827. 
Nichols  and  Son. 


124  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTUKY. 

perished  generations    of  men  communicated  alike  wants  the  most  trivial,  or 
the  "  thoughts  that  wander  through  eternity."* 

There  are  no  printed  books  in  the  Cornish  tongue.  Dr.  Moreman,  of  Men- 
heniot,  in  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII.,  was  the  first  who  taught  his  parishioners 
the  Lord's  Prayer  in  English.  In  1640,  at  Feock,  near  Truro,  the  sacrament 
was  administered  in  Cornish;  and  the  Rev.  Mr.  Robinson,  near  the  Lizard 
Point,  preached  in  Cornish  in  1678.  In  1700,  the  language  was  still  spoken 
by  the  tinners  and  fish-people  of  St.  Just,  and  the  western  side  of  Mounts  Bay. 
Borlase  said,  that  in  1758  it  had  ceased  to  be  spoken ;  but  ten  years  after  that, 

*  One  of  these  interludes  is  supposed  to  have  been  written  in  the  time  of  Richard  III.  In  the 
interlude  in  the  Bodleian  Library,  called  "  The  Creation,"  God  the  Father  speaks  at  the  opening  ;  we 
copy  from  Borlase,  as  the  translation  has  been  lost : — 

"  The  Father  of  heaven — I  the  maker, 
The  former  of  every  thing  that  shall  be  made — 
One  and  three  in  truth, 
The  Father,  Son,  and  the  Spirit — 
This  day  it  is  my  will 
Of  my  especial  favour  to  begin  the  world. 
I  have  said  it — heaven  and  earth 
Be  ye  formed  by  my  counsel !" 

The  metre  is  agreeable  and  harmonious.  The  Cornish  runs — 
"  Eii  Tas-a  Nef-ym  Gyl-wyr  — 
F6rmy-er  pubtra,  vyth-gwrys ;" 
consequently  the  measure  is  that  of  Dryden's  verse,  "  Softly  sweet  in  Lydian  measures."  The 
stanza  consists  of  eight  verses,  with  alternate  rhymes ;  sometimes  changed  for  one  of  six,  when  the 
first  and  second  rhyme  together,  the  fourth  and  fifth,  and  the  third  and  sixth.  In  this  drama  there 
are  fifty-six  characters,  and  yet  more  in  two  of  the  other  pieces.  All  the  hosts  of  heaven  and  the 
infernal  regions,  even  the  Trinity,  are  personified.  "  The  Creation "  occupies  the  ages  from  the 
beginning  of  the  world  to  the  erection  of  Solomon's  Temple.  Thus,  though  the  diction  of  the  dialogue 
is  good,  all  dramatic  rules  in  the  plot  are  set  at  defiance.  A  christian  bishop  is,  oddly  enough , 
ordained  to  look  after  the  edifice  of  a  Jewish  sovereign.  Still  more  incongruously,  the  wages  of  the 
workmen  who  built  the  temple  are  places  or  estates  in  Cornwall, — Enys,  the  seat  of  the  Enys  family, 
near  Penryn,  Penryn-wood,  Arwenick,  near  Fenryn,  Tregeuler,  Kegyllek,  and  all  the  field  of 
Behethlen.  In  this  building  of  the  temple,  "  The  Martyrdom  of  Maximilla,"  a  legend,  is  introduced, 
in  which  a  bishop,  a  crosier  bearer,  a  messenger,  four  torturers,  Maximilla,  Gebel,  and  Amalek,  are  the 
actors.  The  bishop  rewards  the  torturers  for  their  cruelties  with  three  Cornish  estates.  It  would 
seem  that  bishops  were  in  bad  odour  with  the  Cornish  people,  by  thus  charging  one  with  putting  a 
saint  to  death ;  a  thing  as  incongruous  as  just  before  making  one  of  them  a  keeper  of  Solomon's 
temple.  The  first  of  wise  men  finishes  the  entertainment  by  reciting  an  epilogue,  in  which  he  charges 
his  audience  to  come  early  the  next  day,  to  see  "  The  Passion"  represented.  Solomon  then  gives  the 
audience  their  dismissal  in  these  words  — 

"  In  the  name  of  the  Father, 

Ye  minstrels  holy, 

Tune  your  pipes, 

And  let  every  one  depart  to  his  home." 
The  "  Creation  and  Deluge,"  by  Jordan,  is  inferior  to  "  Mount  Calvary,"  which  is  translated  into 
prose  ;  the  last  being  narrative  and  not  dramatic,  solemn  as  well  as  pathetic.     In  Jordan's  piece,  the 
directions  for  the  actors  or  the  stage  manager  are  singular  ;  as  they  explain  the  nature  of  many  things 
which  could  not  be  learned  from  the  dialogue.     First,  God  the  Father  is  to  appear,  and  then  Lucifer, 


CORNWALL.  125 

two  old  women  of  Mousehole  understood,  according  to  Mr.  Dailies  Barrington, 
what  was  said  by  a  neighbour  called  Dolly  Pentreath,  than  whom  they  were 
only  ten  or  twelve  years  younger.  This  woman,  commonly  reputed  the  last 
who  could  speak  Cornish,  was  in  her  eighty-seventh  year  in  1773;  but  would 
frequently  walk  three  miles  out  and  home  the  same  morning.  One  William 
Bodener,  in  1776,  could  write  both  Cornish  and  English;  and  he  stated  that 
four  or  five  others  then  lived  who  could  speak  the  language.  John  Nancarrow 
of  Marazion,  learned  the  language  in  his  youth.  Mr.  Polwhele  says,  that 
this  William  Bodener,  of  Mousehole,  was  many  years  younger  than  Dolly 

■who  styles  himself  the  "  lanthorn  of  heaven,"  and  angels  of  different  degrees,  both  of  God  and  of 
Lucifer.  It  is  directed  that  "  hell  should  gape  "  at  one  part  of  the  dialogue.  "  Adam  and  Eve  "  are 
directed  to  he  ready,  "  dressed  in  white  leather,"  but  not  to  appear  till  called,  and  "  then  to  rise." 
Paradise  is  ordered  to  be  represented  with  fruits,  flowers,  a  fountain,  and  a  tree ;  and  the  Father  is  to 
take  a  bone  out  of  Adam's  side.  Adam  is  to  lie  down  and  sleep,  and  the  "  conveyer"  is  to  take  Eve 
from  his  side ;  the  conveyer  answering,  it  is  presumed,  to  a  modern  stage-manager.  Animals,  birds, 
and  fish,  are  introduced  ;  and  a  serpent  is  ordered  to  be  made,  "  with  a  virgin's  face,  and  yellow  hair 
upon  her  head."  Lucifer  is  to  come,  and,  slaying  the  serpent,  to  enter  into  its  body.  The  serpent 
enters  the  tree  and  sings.     These  and  many  more  are  directions  for  the  performance. 

The  play  begins  by  God  the  Father  declaring  his  intention  of  creating  the  world.  Lucifer  addresses 
the  angels,  in  his  pride,  and  declares  he  is  better  than  the  Father.  Angels  of  his  own  party  applaud 
him  ;  while  those  faithful  to  God  rebuke  him.  The  Father  then  appears  and  rebukes  the  rebel  angel ; 
who  replies,  full  of  jealousy  against  man,  of  whom  the  Maker  had  announced  the  creation.  He  insults 
his  Maker,  and  Michael  is  commanded  to  turn  him  out  of  heaven.  A  combat  ensues,  and  Lucifer  is 
worsted.  [The  instructions  for  the  stage  are  to  fight  with  swords.  Lucifer  to  go  down  to  hell ;  and 
every  degree  of  devils  and  spirits  to  be  sent  down  to  hell,  and  "  lost  spirits,  on  cords,  are  running  into 
the  plain  ;"  or  bottom  of  the  amphitheatre,  we  presume.  Hence  the  whole  circle,  below  the  last  step, 
must  have  been  occupied  by  the  actors.]  The  second  act  exhibits  the  creation  of  man,  and  his  fall. 
Lucifer  is  represented  as  "  a  sweet  angel ;"  and  Eve  goes  through  the  tempting  of  her  husband  with 
true  feminine  skill.  Adam  clearly  sins  not  from  desire  for  the  apple,  nor  curiosity  to  know  good  from 
evil,  but  because  Eve  declares  if  he  does  not  eat  he  shall  "lose  her  love."  The  stage  instruction  when 
the  serpent  is  discovered  by  God,  orders  that  Lucifer  shall  come  out  of  the  serpent,  leaving  it  in  the 
tree,  and  "  creep  on  his  belly  into  hell."  In  the  third  act  Death  appears,  Cain  and  Abel  are  born,  the 
latter  is  murdered,  Cain  banished,  and  Seth  born.     Cain's  parents  curse  him  ;  he  answers, — 

" I  am  enough  accursed, 

There  is  no  need  that  you  should  curse  me  more ; 

I  cannot  bear  what  you  have  dealt  to  me, 

And  my  own  mother  too  from  her  whole  heart ! — 

I  will  fly  far  from  hence,  before  I  rest, — ■ 

So  thick  the  curses  heaped  upon  my  head, 

I  doubt  if  earth  hath  ere  a  dwelling  for  me  !" 

The  fourth  act  contains  the  death  of  Cain  and  of  Adam.  Lamech,  nearly  blind,  sets  off  to  shoot  or 
hunt,  attended  by  a  servant ;  and  mistaking  Cain  for  a  wild  beast,  slays  him.  Lamech  kills  his 
servant  for  directing  his  aim,  though  it  was  done  unwittingly.  Devils  appear,  and  take  Cain  away  ; 
his  words  when  dying,  to  Lamech,  must  have  been  striking  in  the  original  tongue ;  we  have  turned 
their  meaning  into  metre  : — 

Cain.    I  am  deformed,  covered  with  hair,— 
I've  lived  continually,  now  burned  with  heat, 
Now  chilled  with  hoary  frost ;  aye,  day  and  night ! 
The  sons  of  men  I  never  will'd  to  see, — 


126 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


Pentreath,  and  used  to  converse  with  her.    He  died  in  1794,  and  left  two  sons, 

but  neither  knew  enough  of  the  language  to  converse  in  it.     This  engraving  is 

a  likeness  of  Dolly  Pentreath, 

from  a  drawing  made  by  an 

inhabitant  of  Penzance,  who 

died  about  the  close  of  the 

last  century. 

Dolly  Pentreath  was  aged 
102  years  when  she  died, 
and  was  buried  very  humbly 
in  St.  Paul's  churchyard,  near 
Penzance ;  where  some  igno- 
rant writers  have  given  her 
both  a  stone  and  epitaph. 
Mr.  Tompson,  an  engineer 
of  Truro,  who  had  made 
the  old  Cornish  language  his 


For  beasts  were  my  companions.     'Twas  that  I 
Kill'd  the  churl  Abel,  made  my  suffering. 

Lantech.    Wherefore  did'st  thou  kill  him  ? 
He  was  thy  brother ; — 'twas  a  wicked  deed. 

Cain.    He  did  control  me, — I  was  born  before  him  ; 
Yet  he  ne'er  reverenced  me  before  the  world. 
Enraged,  I  suddenly  did  slay  my  brother : 
No  sorrow  bear  I  for  it ;  but  the  curses, — 
The  curse  of  God,  of  mother,  and  of  sire  ; 
These  are  upon  me,  for  that  act  alone ! 
My  heart  is  proud  as  ever  ;  though  close  by 
Death  stands,  I  will  not  ask  forgiveness, 
Doubting  of  mercy  for  my  bygone  deeds. 
I  know  that  God  relentless,  will  not  pardon. — 
Oh,  I  am  dying !     I'll  not  forgive  even  thee. 
My  soul  turns  hellwards,  to  its  dwelling, 
Winter  and  summer  tide,  there  to  inhabit !"     (Cain  dies.) 

Adam  now  directs  Seth  to  Paradise,  where  the  future  is  revealed  to  him  by  an  angel,  in  a  sort  of 
phantasmic  scenery  ;  wherein  he  sees  the  past  and  the  future,  with  the  scheme  of  human  redemption  ; 
reminding  us  much  of  Milton's  description  of  the  revelation  of  future  events  to  Adam  in  Paradise  Lost. 
Similar  interludes  perhaps  furnished  the  great  poet  with  the  hint.  Seth  relates  all  he  has  seen  to 
Adam,  whom  Death  soon  afterwards  takes,  and  devils  come  to  fetch ;  but  Lucifer  interferes,  and  says 
Adam  is  ordained  by  the  Father  to  rest  in  limbo  ;  they  must  not  touch  him.  Lucifer  tells  the  reason 
wherefore,  as  adroitly  as  an  Oxford  doctor  of  divinity  could  do.  In  the  fifth  act,  Enoch  is  translated, 
and  points  to  the  sun  and  firmament  as  he  is  carried  upwards.  Two  pillars  are  erected,  and  books 
put  into  them,  written  by  Seth,  containing  all  that  has  happened  from  the  foundation  of  the 
world ; — that  the  antediluvian  history  may  be  preserved.  Noah  receives  his  instructions  to  build 
the  ark.  Ropes,  pitch,  and  tools  are  displayed ;  at  all  which  Tubal-Cain,  and  others,  laugh.  The 
beasts  are  put  into  the  ark,  rain  falls ;  afterwards  a  raven  and  a  culver  are  let  fly.  The  ark  is  left,  an 
altar  built,  frankincense  burned,  and  "  some  good  church  songs  sung."  A  rainbow,  too,  appears ;  (it 
would  be  curious  to  know  how  they  managed  their  scenery ;)  and  the  piece  closes  with  an  epilogue. 


CORNWALL.  127 

study,  wrote  the  following  epitaph  upon  Dolly,  which  he  circulated  among 
his  friends  ;  hence  the  tale  of  a  tomb-stone,  that  never  honoured  her 
remains : — 

"  Old  Doll  Pentreath,  one  hundred  aged  and  two, 
Deceased  and  buried  in  Paul  parish  too  : — 
Not  in  the  church,  with  people  great  and  high, 
But  in  the  churchyard,  doth  old  Dolly  lie."  * 

The  intercourse  of  Cornwall  with  Brittany,  and  intermarriage  of  families, 
was  common  until  the  reign  of  Henry  VII. ;  this  contributed  to  keep  alive 
the  language,  in  more  purity  than  it  afterwards  maintained,  f 

The  parish  of  Piran-zabulo,  J  is  half  overwhelmed  with  the  sand  blown 
up  by  the  sea.  The  manor  of  St.  Piran  has  wholly  disappeared  beneath  the 
deluge  that  has  rolled  over  it.  No  less  than  three  churches  are  recorded  to 
have  been  built,  and  abandoned  from  this  cause ;  and  in  1835,  a  building  was 
laid  bare  by  the  shifting  of  the  sands,  which  some  believe  was  the  original 
church  of  St.  Piran.  §  It  seems  rather  to  have  been  the  chapel  attached  to  a 
hermitage ;  as  it  measures  but  twenty -five  feet  in  length,  by  twelve  and  a  half 
in  breadth,  and  about  the  same  in  height.  At  the  eastern  end  is  an  altar, 
three  feet  high,  plastered  over ;  and  on  the  north  side,  a  small  door ;  but  there 
is  no  window  in  the  whole  edifice.  A  second  door  enters  what  may  be  called 
the  nave  of  this  chapel,  decorated  with  ornamental  work.  That  it  is  of  consi- 
derable antiquity  cannot  be  doubted.  Laying  aside  the  ridiculous  legends 
current  about  St.  Piran,  he  is  said  by  Roman  Catholic  writers  to  have  been  a 
bishop  and  a  follower  of  St.  Patrick,  and  to  have  retired  in  his  old  age  into 
Cornwall,  where  he  led  a  hermit's  life,  taking  up  his  residence  about  fifteen 
miles  from  Padstow.  Some  of  his  disciples  went  with  him,  and  remained 
until  his  decease.  A  white  cross  upon  a  black  ground,  the  old  standard  of 
Cormvall,  was  the  banner  of  St.  Piran.     The  progress  of  the  sand,  disgorged 

*  In  Cornish  : —  ':  Coth  Doll  Pentreath  cans  ha  deau  ; 

Marow  ha  kledyz  ed  Paul  pleu : — 
Na  ed  an  Eglos,  gan  pobel  bras, 
Bes  ed  Eglos-hay,  coth  Dolly  es." 

f  Some  of  the  expressions  in  Milton  and  Shakespear,  obsolete  elsewhere,  may  be  yet  traced  in 
Cornwall.  Tan  was  the  word  once  used  for  fire ;  they  still  say,  for  "  light  the  fire,"  "tine  the  fire." 
Milton  says,  "  tine  the  fierce  lightning."  "  Bear,"  for  "  early,"  used  by  Milton  and  Shakespear,  is 
still  used  in  Cornwall.  "  Commercing,"  for  "  conversing,"  is  Cornish ;  so  Milton,  "  Looks  commercing 
with  the  skies."     "  I  censure,"  for  "  I  am  of  opinion,"  as  Shakespear  writes,  is  still  used. 

J  In  a  note,  at  page  8,  on  Cornish  etymologies,  we  quote  some  as  bearing  the  Jewish  stamp ;  that 
people  having  worked  the  mines  in  the  time  of  King  John.  The  observation  is  Mr.  Warner's ;  and 
Paran-zabulo  very  much  resembles  Hebrew.  Whatever  the  first  part  of  the  name  may  be, — Paran, 
Perran,  Piran,  or  Berran,  so  difficult  is  it  to  decide  about  the  names  of  Irish  saints  who  go  to  sea  on 
millstones,  zabulo  is  by  another  writer  derived  from  the  French  sabulon,  "  fine  sand." 

§  The  miners  give  St.  Piran  the  credit  of  first  showing  them  tin,  wholly  forgetting  the  trade  of  the 
Phoenicians  to  Cornwall,  1,400  years  before  St.  Piran  was  born.  They  keep  his  feast  on  the  5th  of 
March,  and  every  one  seen  in  a  state  of  ebriety  on  that  day  is  called  a  "  Perraner."  The  saint,  him- 
self of  the  true  Milesian  stock,  is  said  to  have  held  "thin  potations"  in  very  particular  abhorrence. 


128  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

from  the  ocean  depths  in  such  vast  quantities,  rolling  over  fertile  lands,  and 
changing  the  aspect  of  a  large  superficial  space,  where  in  time  it  frequently 
condenses  into  strata  of  considerable  hardness,  in  fact  into  sandstone,  is  a  sin- 
gular operation  of  nature.  When  the  west  wind  blows  strong,  the  advance  of 
the  sand  in  tiny  waves  is  easily  observed,  and  may  be  arrested  by  planting  a 
belt  of  rushes  parallel  with  the  sea.  What  are  called  "  towans  "  in  Cornwall, 
where  the  sands  have  assumed  the  form  of  enormous  hills,  in  many  places 
covered  with  short  sweet  grass,  seems  to  be  owing  to  some  other  causes  than 
are  now  in  action.  This  sand  consists  almost  wholly  of  comminuted  shells, 
triturated  to  great  fineness,  of  which  the  ocean  must  possess  stores  inex- 
haustible. 

Returning  to  Truro,  and  taking  the  road  to  Penryn, — which  has  been  changed 
in  direction,  a  short  distance  from  the  former  town,  to  avoid  a  steep  hill, — 
passing  by  a  smelting-house  for  tin,  at  Calenick,  situated  at  the  head  of  a  creek 
from  Truro  river,  we  go  on  to  the  village  of  Piran,  or  Perranwell.  On  the 
right  hand  stands  the  church  of  Kea,  a  modern  building  of  humble  pretensions, 
and  Killiow,  the  seat  of  the  Grwatkin  family.  In  this  parish  are  four  tumuli, 
known  as  the  Four  Burrows ;  which  were  opened,  and  found  to  contain  ashes 
preserved  in  urns ;  which  last  were  protected  by  broad  stones,  forming  small 
chambers.  In  this  parish  too  was  the  wood  of  Nansavallan,  of  late  denuded 
of  its  old  attractions  by  the  axe, — the  scene  of  happy  recollections  to  numbers 
now  in  the  vale  of  years.  Some  parts  of  this  parish,  bordering  on  Truro  river, 
exhibit  very  beautiful  scenery.  At  Chacewater,  a  populous  village  of  Kea 
and  Kenwyn,  a  chapel  of  ease  has  been  erected  recently,  one  of  the  most 
extraordinary  exhibitions  of  bad  taste  in  architecture  of  which  it  is  possible  to 
conceive.  Further  on  this  road,  upon  the  left  hand,  is  Kiliganoon,  a  seat  built 
by  Mr.  R.  Hussey,  of  Truro,  who  died  in  1770.  It  afterwards  became  the 
property  of  Admiral  Spry.  It  stands  in  the  parish  of  Feock,  or  St.  Feock, 
one  of  the  many  Cornish  saints  unknown  to  existing  history. 

The  new  road  to  Penryn, — the  older  was  one  of  the  most  pleasing  in  the 
county,  on  its  approach  to  Piran-Arworthal, — the  new  road  crosses  Carnon 
stream  work,  and  passes  through  an  agreeable  valley,  having  the  woods  of 
Carclew  and  part  of  Restronget  creek  on  the  left  hand.  At  Piran-Arworthal 
there  is  an  iron  foundry,  and,  not  far  from  the  village,  a  strong  chalybeate 
spring,  called  Piran  Well.  The  church  is  small,  but  neat.  Carclew,  the 
seat  of  the  most  popular  and  respected  family  in  the  county  of  Cornwall,  that 
of  Lemon,  of  which  Sir  Charles  Lemon  is  the  present  representative,  is  a  very 
charming  residence,  displaying  scenery  of  great  beauty.  Between  Carclew 
and  Penryn  is  Enys,  the  seat  of  Mr.  J.  S.  Enys,  one  of  the  oldest  estates  in 
the  county,  having  been  inhabited  by  that  family  from  the  time  of  the 
Plantagenets. 

Penryn  is  a  town  of  no  pretensions  in  building  or  trade,  but  very  beautifully 
situated.     It  stands  upon  a  ridge,  which  on  the  northern  side  goes  down  into 


CORNWALL. 


129 


a  valley,  watered  by  a  branch  of  Falmouth  harbour,  carrying  upon  the  other 
side  the  slope,  thickly  wooded,  upon  which  stands  the  church  and  vicarage- 
house  of  St.  Gluvias,  buried  in  foliage.  The  road  to  Falmouth  passes  through 
the  lower  part  of  the  town,  and  crosses  the  creek  over  a  bridge.  There  was 
once  a  collegiate  church  of  Black  Canons  here,  but  there  are  no  remains  of  it 
left,  and  dwellings  are  erected  where  it  stood;*  the  archdeacon  of  Cornwall, 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Sheepshanks,  is  the  vicar.  Mr.  Temple,  the  friend  of  the  poet  Gray, 
was  also  the  incumbent,  and  equally  distinguished  for  literary  acquirements. 
Penryn  was  incorporated  by  James  I.,  and  was  governed  by  a  mayor,  recorder 
portreeve,  eleven  magistrates,  and  twelve  assistants.  It  is  a  very  ancient  town, 
had  a  court-leet  before  the  Norman  conquest,  and  sent  two  members  to  par- 
liament from  a  very  early  date ;  but  under  the  Reform  Act  Falmouth  has 
been  admitted  to  share  in  the  return.  The  town-hall  has  been  lately  re- 
edified  of  granite. 


■  v. 


Northward  of  the  town  was  the  scene  of  that  extraordinary  murder,  which 
Lillo  chose  for  the  subject  of  his  tragedy,  called  "  Fatal  Curiosity."  Upon 
inquiry  we  found  that  all  which  till  lately  remained  of  the  farm  of  Bohethland 
was  a  barn,  recently  burned  down.  It  is  singular  that  the  names  of  the 
parties  in  this  dreadful  history  should  have  been  kept  so  secret  as  not  to 
be  known.  It  was  in  the  reign  of  James  I.  that  there  lived  in  Penryn  an 
individual,  at  one  time  in  good  circumstances,  whose  youngest  son  turned 
out  bad,  left  his  home,  and  went  to  sea,  pursuing  a  course  little  better  than 
piracy.  During  the  term  of  fifteen  years,  which  the  son  was  absent,  the 
father's  fortunes  declined,  and  he  and  his  wife   took  up  their  residence,  in 


*  Leland  says  of  the  creek  of  Falmouth  harbour  that  goes  up  to  Penryn,  "  At  the  end  it  breaketh 
into  two  armes,  the  lesse  to  the  college  of  Glasenith  in  viridis  nidus,  or  wagmire,  at  Perin,  the  other 
to  St.  Gluvias,  the  parish  church  of  Pinrine  thereby."  "  Good  wood  about  the  south  and  west  side  of 
Penrine." 


130  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

embarrassed  circumstances,  at  Bohethland  farm,  in  continual  expectation  of 
arrest.    The  son,  in  his  roving  career,  being  in  a  vessel,  oif  Rhodes,  that  caught 
fire  while  attacking  another  belonging  to  Turkey,  was  fortunate  enough  to  save 
himself  by  swimming,  having  about  him  some  jewels,  Avhich  were  recognised  as 
belonging  to  a  Turkish  officer,  who  had  been  plundered  on  the  high  seas.     In 
consequence,   the  young  adventurer  was   sent  to  the  galleys,  among  other 
christian  slaves ;  but  from  this  slavery  made  his  escape,  and  getting  on  board 
an  English  vessel,  reached  London,  Avhence  he  embarked  for  the  East  Indies, 
as  the  servant  of  a  medical  man,  saved  a  good  deal  of  money  there,  returned 
to  England,  and  was  cast  away  upon  the  shore  of  his  native  county,  in  a  small 
ship  proceeding  from  London  homewards.     Again  his  life  was  preserved  by 
swimming  on  shore ;  and  he  proceeded  to  Penryn.     Here  he  met  with  his 
sister,  married  to  a  mercer ;  revealed  himself,  poor  as  he  was  in  appearance, 
but  having  much  wealth  concealed  in  a  bow-case  about  him;  and  with  his 
sister  agreed  that  he  should  remain  disguised  until  the  next  day,  when,  joined 
by  herself  and  husband,  they  should  altogether  share  in  the  joy  of  his  disco- 
very.  In  the  mean  time  the  youth  went  to  his  parents  as  a  stranger,  and  they, 
in  compassion  at  his  story,  permitted  him  to  lodge  in  the  barn ;  but  the  tales 
he  told  by  the  kitchen  fire  lasted  so  long  that  his  father  retired  to  bed,  while 
the  son  continued  to  draw  tears  from  the  mother's  eyes,  which,  unfortunately, 
he  comforted  with  a  piece  of  gold,  to  explain  that  he  could  pay  for  accom- 
modation.    He  Avas  sIioavii  to  his  lodging,  and  here  he  exhibited  Avhat  other 
property  he  had  about  him,  telling  his  mother  it  Avas  sufficient  to  retrieve  her 
husband's  wants,  or  she  secretly  thinking  so.     The  Avife,  on  retiring  to  her 
husband,  told  him  of  the  wealth  her  unknown  son  possessed  ;  and,  like  another 
Lady  Macbeth,   overcame  his  scruples  and  refusals  to  commit  a  crime   to 
obtain  it,  Avhen  both  arose,  murdered  their  son,  and  left  his  body  to  be  dis- 
posed of  as  opportunity  offered.     On   the  folloAving  day  the  sister  and  her 
husband  came  up  to  share  the  family  pleasure  at  the  return  of  the  lost  son ;  and 
inquiring  for  the  sailor  avIio  had  lodged  there  the  night  before,  the  parents 
at  first  denied  that  any  one  had  done  so.     The  daughter  then  revealed  who 
the  stranger  Avas,  and  alluded  to  a  mark  on  his  arm  in  proof,  by  Avhich  it  is 
probable   she  had  recognised  him  Avhen  he  first  came  to  her.     The   father 
rushed  to  the  spot  Avhere  the  body  lay  in  its  blood,  recognised  it,  destroyed  him- 
self Avith  the  knife  Avhich  he  had  used  for  the  assassination ;    and  the  Avife, 
frantic,  also  committed  suicide.     The  daughter,  stricken  with  horror  at  the 
dreadful   catastrophe,   did  not  long  survive.      This  horrible   incident  seems 
Avell  supported  in  the  main  facts  both  by  record  and  tradition,  and  adds  addi- 
tional testimony  to  the  truth  of  the  obseiwation,  that  "  truth  is  stranger  than 
fiction." 

From  Penryn  to  Falmouth  the  road  skirts  the  Avater,  and  enters  the  latter 
toAvn  by  the  suburb  called  Green  Bank,  beautifully  situated  upon  the  side  of  a 
steep  hill,  having  in  front  the  Avidening  part  of  the  harbour,  Avhich  terminates 


CORNWALL.  131 

with  Penryn  creek ;  and  on  the  opposite  side,  the  villages  of  Little  Falmouth 
and  Flushing,  which  run  along  the  edge  of  the  sea,  and  here  and  there  rise 
upon  the  green  and  pretty  hill  behind,  terminating  in  Trefusis  Point,  which, 
with  Pendennis  Castle  opj)osite,  forms  the  entrance  to  what  may  be  more 
particularly  denominated  Falmouth  Harbour,  or  basin,  as  distinguished  from 
Carrick  lioad.  Flushing  stands  in  the  parish  of  Milor,  so  named  from  a 
Cornish  saint,  Meliorus,  son  to  one  of  the  dukes  of  Cornwall.  The  situation 
of  the  church  is  secluded  ;  the  building  itself  possesses  nothing  striking  in 
appearance.  The  village  of  Flushing,  built  at  the  termination  of  a  winding 
valley,  owes  its  foundation  to  some  Dutch  settlers,  and  the  land  belongs  to  the 
Trefusis  family,  now  that  of  Lord  Clinton.  Trefusis  is  charmingly  situated, 
and  the  prospects  from  the  vicinity  of  the  house  are  very  beautiful,  but  the 
house  itself,  since  the  accession  of  the  family  to  the  Clinton  title,  has  been  for- 
saken, and  is  inhabited  by  a  fanner.* 

Falmouth,  from  the  termination  of  the  new  buildings  on  Green  Bank,  south- 
eastward, consists  of  a  narrow  ill-built  street,  running  parallel  with  the  harbour, 
which  may  now  and  then  be  seen  close  by  at  the  end  of  some  narrow  opening 
among  the  houses,  or  down  a  low  and  dingy  passage.  Passing  through  this 
street,  beyond  the  Custom-house,  very  good  habitations  commence  along  the 
open  strand  towards  Arwinik,  and  extend  some  way  further,  though  not 
continuously ;  while,  on  the  hill  behind,  rows  of  excellent  dwellings  rise, 
terrace  fashion,  overlooking  the  narrow  main  street  below,  the  entire  harbour, 
Trefusis  Point,  the  Roads,  the  land  beyond  them,  and  the  castle  of  Pendennis ; 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  landscapes  that  can  be  imagined.  Farther  to  the 
south,  the  houses  on  the  hill-side,  called  Woodland  Terrace,  making  a  sudden 

*  Leland  makes  no  mention  of  a  town  where  Falmouth  stands,  temp.  Hen.  VIII.  After  visiting 
Budock  church  he  comes  to  Arwenik,  now  in  Falmouth  town ;  he  calls  it  "  Mr.  Kiligrew's  place, 
standing  on  the  brimme  or  shore  within  Falmouth  Haven.  This  place  hath  beene  of  continuance  the 
auncient  house  of  the  Kiligrews.  The  very  point  of  the  haven  mouth  being  an  hille,  whereon  the 
king  hath  builded  a  castel,  is  callid  Pendinant,  and  longgith  to  Mr.  Kiligrew ;  it  is  a  mile  in  cumpace , 
and  is  almost  environed  by  the  se  ;  and  where  it  is  not,  the  ground  is  so  low,  and  the  cut  so  little,  that 
it  were  insulated.  There  lieth  a  little  cape  or  foreland,  within  the  haven  a  mile,  almost  against 
Mr.  Kiligrew's  house,  caulled  Trefusis.  Betwixt  this  cape  and  Mr.  Kiligrew's  house,  one  great  arme 
of  the  haven  rennith  up  to  Penrine  town.  Penrine,  three  good  miles  from  the  very  entery  of  Fale- 
muth  haven,  and  two  miles  from  Trefusis.  There  dwelleth  an  auncient  gentleman,  called  Trefusis, 
at.  this  point  of  Trefusis."  Mr.  Beckford,  in  his  travels,  vol.  ii.,  describes  a  younger  gentleman  here, 
with  all  the  habits  of  an  "  auncient,"  in  the  year  1787.  We  cannot  forbear  quoting  this  strikingly 
elegant  and  admirably  descriptive  writer  respecting  Trefusis.  Mr.  Beckford  was  on  his  way  to  Portugal, 
waiting  at  Falmouth  for  a  fair  wind,  and  under  date  of  March  8, 1787,  he  writes,"  What  a  lovely  morn- 
ing !  How  glassy  the  sea ;  how  busy  the  fishing-boats ;  and  how  fast  asleep  the  wind  in  its  old  quarter ! 
Towards  evening,  however,  it  freshened,  and  I  took  a  toss  in  a  boat  with  Mr.  Trefusis,  whose  terri- 
tories extend  half  round  the  bay.  His  green  hanging  downs,  spotted  with  sheep,  and  intersected 
by  rocky  gullies,  shaded  by  tall  straight  oaks  and  ashes,  form  a  romantic  prospect,  very  much  in 
the  style  of  Mount  Edgcumbe. 

"  We  drank  tea  at  the  capital  of  these  dominions,  an  antiquated  mansion,  which  is  placed  in  a 
hollow  on  the  summit  of  a  lofty  hill,  and  contains  many  ruinous  halls  and  never-ending  passages. 
They  cannot  be  said,  however,  to  lead  to  nothing,  like  those  celebrated  by  Gray  in  his  Long  Story ;  for 


132 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


turn,  command  a  still  more  extended  field  of  vision.  The  windows  being 
directed  to  the  ocean-side  of  the  promontory,  upon  which  the  castle  stands, 
the  eye  sweeps  over  the  whole  expanse  of  sea,  formed  by  the  point  of  St.  An- 
thony to  the  eastward,  and  Manacle  Point  westward,  a  glorious  bay,  into  which 
the  Helford  River  opens,  and  the  promontory  towards  the  Lizard  shoots  away 
southwards  until  it  sinks  into  the  azure  of  the  deep. 


The  date  of  the  charter  of  Falmouth  is  1661,  appointing  a  corporation,  with 
a  mayor,  aldermen,  and  burgesses,  also  a  right  of  markets  and  fairs;  and 
giving  the  Killigrew  family  the  ferry  from  Green  Bank  Quay  to  Flushing. 
The  town  has  a  commodious  basin  and  quays.  The  hills  behind  rise  preci- 
pitously to  a  considerable  height;   and  before  the  building  of  Green  Bank 


Mrs.  Trefusis  terminated  the  perspective.  She  is  a  native  of  Lausanne.  We  should  have  very  much 
enjoyed  her  conversation,  hut  the  moment  tea  was  over  he  could  not  resist  leading  us  round  his 
improvements  in  kennel,  stable,  and  ox-stall,  though  it  was  pitch-dark,  and  we  were  obliged  to  be 
escorted  by  grooms  and  groomlings,  with  candles  and  lanthorns ;  a  very  necessary  precaution,  as  the 
wind  blew  not  more  violently  without  the  house  than  within. 

"  In  the  course  of  our  peregrinations,  through  halls,  pantries,  and  anti-chambers,  we  passed  a  stair- 
case, with  heavy  walnut  railing,  lined  from  top  to  bottom  with  effigies  of  ancestors  that  looked  quite 
formidable  by  the  horny  glow  of  our  lanthorns  ;  which  illumination,  dull  as  it  was,  occasioned  much 
alarm  amongst  a  collection  of  animals,  both  furred  and  feathered,  the  delight  of  Mr.  Trefusis's 
existence." 

In  another  place,  describing  a  dinner  at  Trefusis,  at  which  "  we  had  on  the  table  a  savoury  pig, 
right  worthy  of  Otaheite,  and  some  of  the  finest  poultry  I  ever  tasted  ;  and  round  the  table  two  or  three 
brace  of  odd  Cornish  gentlefolks,  not  deficient  in  humour  or  originality,"  Mr.  Beckford  proceeds: 
"  About  eight  in  the  evening,  six  game  cocks  were  ushered  into  the  eating-rooms  by  two  limber  lads 
in  scarlet  jackets;  and  after  a  flourish  of  crowing,  the  noble  birds  set  to  with  surprising  keenness. 
Tufts  of  brilliant  feathers  soon  flew  about  the  apartment ;  but  the  carpet  was  not  stained  with  the 
blood  of  the  combatants  ;  for,  to  do  Trefusis  justice,  he  has  a  generous  heart,  and  takes  no  pleasure  in 
cruelty.  The  cocks  were  unarmed,  had  their  spurs  cut  short,  and  may  live  to  fight  fifty  such  harmless 
battles."  How  is  Trefusis  changed  since  then !  The  house  is  tenanted  by  a  farmer ;  its  owner  becam 
Lord  Clinton  and  died  ;  his  eldest  son  succeeded  him,  and  he  too  is  no  more  ;  a  third  enjoys  the  title, 
but  "  the  hall  of  their  fathers  remains  desolate." 


CORNWALL.  133 

the  entrance  from  Penryn  was  over  one  of  them,  by  Basset-street.  The 
Town-Hall  is  built  of  brick,  and  was  once  a  dissenting-chapel,  presented  for 
its  present  purpose  by  Martin  Killigrew  in  1725.  The  Custom-house  was 
erected  in  1785,  close  to  the  packet  station,  and  near  Arwinik.  The  church, 
erected  in  1662,  and  dedicated  to  the  Stuart  saint,  Charles  I.,  is  situated 
in  the  centre  of  the  town,  on  the  hill-side,  above  the  narrow  street  before 
described ;  in  point  of  building,  offering  nothing  worthy  of  observation.  It 
is  a  rectory,  being  a  dismembered  part  of  the  parish  of  Budock,  which  last 
church  lies  at  a  considerable  distance  from  the  town ;  and  was  so  constituted  by 
Sir  Peter  Killigrew,  who  obtained  an  act  of  parliament  for  the  purpose  in  the 
reign  of  Charles  II.,  as  being  for  the  convenience  of  himself,  servants,  and 
tenants  at  Arwinik,  and  his  new  town  of  Falmouth.  There  are  also  seve- 
ral dissenting  chapels  and  a  Jews'  synagogue.  Falmouth  was  begun  in  1613 
at  Smithike,  the  old  name  of  the  place,  where  it  was  founded ;  for  before 
this,  two  or  three  cottages,  standing  near  by5  were  called  Penny-come-quick, 
and  were  the  only  human  habitations.  The  street  passing  by  Arwinik  ter- 
minates in  the  road  leading  up  to  Pendennis  Castle,  a  place  well  fortified,  in  the 
modern  style,  the  works  carried  round  an  old  circular  stone  castle,  with  loop- 
holes, erected  by  Henry  VIII.  on  a  site  of  still  older  date,  fortified  with  a  turf 
rampart.  The  grounds  at  Arwinik  are  changed  from  what  they  were. 
Mr.  Beckford,  in  his  Travels,  under  the  date  of  1787,  says : — "  Just  out  of  the 
town,  in  a  sheltered  recess  of  the  bay,  lies  a  grove  of  tall  elms,  forming  several 
avenues,  carpeted  with  turf.  In  the  central  part  rises  a  stone  pyramid,  about 
thirty  feet  high,*  well  designed  and  constructed,  but  quite  plain,  without  any 
inscription.  Between  the  trees  one  discovers  a  low  white  house,  built  in  and 
out  in  a  very  capricious  manner,  Avith  oriel  windows  and  porches,  shaded  by 
bushes  and  prosperous  bay.  Several  rose-coloured  cabbages,  with  leaves  as 
crisped  and  curled  as  those  of  the  acanthus,  decorate  a  little  grass  plot,  neatly 
swept,  before  the  door.  Over  the  roof  of  this  snug  habitation,  I  espied  the 
skeleton  of  a  gothic  mansion,  so  completely  robed  with  thick  ivy,  as  to  appear 
like  one  of  those  castles  of  clipped  box  I  have  so  often  seen  in  a  Dutch 
garden."  This,  so  accurately  sketched,  was  what  remained  of  Arwinik  in 
1787,  and  for  many  years  after.  But  now  the  pyramid  has  been  removed,  and 
made  a  conspicuous  object  in  a  field  on  a  hill  at  some  distance ;  the  ground 
where  it  stood  being  let  for  building.  Soon,  it  is  probable,  all  that  remains  of 
Arwinik  will  disappear.  The  house  was  set  on  fire  by  the  owner,  that  the 
parliament  troops,  besieging  Pendennis,  might  not  find  quarters  in  it;  and 
being  partly  consumed  was  never  rebuilt ;  a  portion  only  being  made  habitable. 
The  Killigrews  were  a  very  ancient  family  here,  and  built  the  house  in  1571 ; 
being  great  favourites  with  the  Stuart  dynasty,  the  name  must  be  familiar 
to    all    who    are  acquainted  with  the   history  of  the   court  of  Charles  II. 

*  Erected  by  Mr.  Martin  Killigrew,  in  1737,  of  Constantine  granite,  at  the  cost  of  455/.*,  fourteen 
feet  wide  at  the  base,  and  forty  feet  high. 


134  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

Thomas  Killigrew,  the  celebrated  wit,  being  in  Paris,  and  the  people  there 
curious  to  see  the  first  wit  in  England,  were  disappointed;  until,  walking  with 
the  king  one  day  at  Versailles,  his  Majesty  pointed  out  to  him  a  picture 
of  Christ  crucified,  and  on  each  side  two  other  pictures,  one  of  himself  and  the 
other  of  the  pope.  "  I  thank  your  Majesty  for  the  explanation,"  said  Killigrew  , 
"  I  had  heard  that  our  Saviour  was  crucified  between  two  thieves,  but  I  never 
knew  who  they  were  until  now."  He  is  said  to  have  put  under  the  plate 
of  Charles  II.  at  supper,  the  word  all,  written  five  times  over.  The  king- 
demanded  an  explanation.  "  Why,"  said  Killigrew,  "  the  country  has  sent  all  ; 
the  city  lent  all ;  the  court  spent  all ;  and  if  we  don't  mind  all,  it  will  be  the 
worse  for  us  all"  Tom  Killigrew  was  known  too  as  a  dramatic  author ;  he 
died  in  1682,*  and  the  name  is  now  extinct;  while  the  property  of  the  family 
is  in  Lord  Wodehouse  by  marriage.  Pendennis  Castle  was  defended  with  great 
bravery  for  Charles  I.  by  John  Arundel ;  and  the  siege  ei.  during  six  months, 
when  it  was  at  length  taken  by  starvation,  the  garrison  marched  out  in  a 
miserable  condition,  so  that  many  died  afterwards  from  their  sufferings  and 
privations.  Except  Pagland,  in  Monmouthshire,  this  was  the  last  place  belong- 
ing to  the  Stuarts  that  held  out  against  the  Parliament.  From  the  ramparts, 
the  view  of  the  harbour  of  Falmouth,  Carrick  Poads,  and  Falmouth  Bay, 
without  the  entrance,  offers  a  prospect  of  uncommon  beauty.  This  entrance  is 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  wide,  and  there  is  a  rock  in  the  centre,  called  the 
Black  Rock,  upon  Avhich  there  is  a  pole  erected  as  a  mark  to  seamen.  Upon  the 
opposite  side  of  this  strait  is  St.  Mawe's  Castle,  which  Mr.  Creswick  has  so 
beautifully  illustrated  in  the  steel  engraving,  taken  from  a  battery  beneath  the 
castle  ramparts.  So  fine  and  extensive  is  this  harbour  and  its  dependencies, 
that  it  is  observed  by  Carew,  a  hundred  sail  of  vessels  may  anchor  in  it,  and 
not  one  see  the  mast  of  another.  The  finest  anchorage  is  in  the  part  of  the 
Poads  called  St.  Just's  Pool.  This  port  has  long  been  renowned  as  the  packet 
station  to  the  West  Indies  and  the  Mediterranean ;  and  it  is  not  only  the  best 
for  this  pui'iDose  as  a  harbour,  but  from  position,  upon  the  old  seamen's  sound 
maxim,  applied  to  every  sort  of  vessel  traversing  the  sea  with  despatches, 
"  always  make  the  first  port :"  meaning  that  accidents  and  delays  may  happen 

*  The  last  male  of  the  direct  line  of  the  Killigrews  was  Mr.  George  Killigrew,  who  was  killed  in  a 
duel  at  Penryn.  He  had  two  sisters  ;  upon  the  marriage  of  one  of  whom  with  Mr.  Martin  Lister,  of 
Lister,  in  Staffordshire,  Sir  Peter  Killigrew  settled  much  of  his  property,  on  condition  that  Mr.  Lister 
should  take  the  name  of  Killigrew.  On  this  branch  becoming  extinct,  the  Killigrew  property  fell  to 
Lord  Wodehouse.  A  singular  story  is  told  of  Lady  Jane  Killigrew,  that  at  the  close  of  the  reign  of 
Elizabeth  two  vessels,  belonging  to  the  Hans  Towns,  putting  into  Falmouth  by  stress  of  weather,  and 
having  Spanish  property  on  board,  she,  with  a  number  of  other  persons  boarded  them,  although  "such 
Dutch  ships  of  the  Hans  Towns  were  always  free  traders  even  in  time  of  war,"  and  murdering  two 
Spanish  factors  whom  they  found  in  the  vessels,  carried  off  two  hogsheads  of  pieces  of  eight,  their  pro- 
perty. The  plea  of  Spanish  property  did  not  avail ;  the  parties  were  all  tried,  and  all  executed,  except 
Lady  Jane,  who  got  a  reprieve,  and  finally  a  pardon.  In  her  trouble,  the  corporation  of  Penryn  having 
been  very  kind  to  her,  she  presented  the  Mayor  with  a  silver  cup  in  1612,  to  show  her  gratitude. 


CORN  WALT 


135 


in  running  even  the  shortest  additional  distance,  and  terra  firma  is  the  first 
thing  to  be  regarded. 

The  parish  church  of  Budock  is  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Falmouth,  westwards  ; 
and  Sir  Nicolas  Parker  is  buried  there,  one  of  the  governors  of  Pendennis 
Castle,  about  the  year  1600.  Mabe,  a  mile  and  three  quarters  more  to  the 
westward,  is  principally  remarkable  for  the  vast  quantity  of  granite  it  contains, 
not  in  detached  rocks  alone,  but  in  quarries,  from  whence  it  is  exported  by 
way  of  Penryn ;  and  much  of  that  stone  used  for  building  the  great  bridges  in 
the  metropolis,  was  sent  from  Mabe.  This  last  parish  borders  upon  Constantine, 
the  church  of  which,  as  well  as  the  handsome  tower,  is  built  of  granite.  The  road 
from  Penryn  and  Falmouth  to  the  town  of  Helston  passes  through  Mabe 
parish,  and  has  received  numerous  improvements  within  a  few  years.  This 
road  leaves  Wendron  on  the  north,  the  parish  of  which  Helston  is  the 
daughter  church,  before  it  reaches  that  town,  Wendron  being  distant  between 
three  and  four  miles.  About  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Mabe,  in  the  adjoining 
parish  of  Constantine,  is  the  Tolmen,  or  large  stone,  which  Borlase,  in  his 
history  of  Cornwall,  imagines  to  be  a  rock  deity  of  the  ancient  Britons.  Its 
site  is  upon  the  verge  of 
a  hill,  having  a  hole  un- 
der it,  which  the  above- 
mentioned  author  seems  to 
think  was  a  sort  of  sacred 
passage  connected  with  idol 
worship.  The  vast  size  of 
this  Tolmen,  in  Cornish 
meaning  the  "holed  stone,'' 
would  be  more  striking,  if 
any  can  credit  that  it  was 
placed  in  its  present  posi- 
tion by  human  means,  of 
which  we  altogether  doubt 
the  possibility. 

This  enormous  mass  is  considered  to  weisiji  not  less  than  750  tons.  It  is 
thirty-three  feet  long,  by  fourteen  feet  six  inches  deep,  and  eighteen  feet  six 
inches  in  diameter,  laterally,  the  shape  being  that  of  an  egg  somewhat  flattened. 
On  the  summit  are  several  hollows,  the  work  of  time,  and  the  action  of  water. 
It  is  possible  that  the  hole  beneath  may  have  been  enlarged,  or  even  perforated 
altogether,  for  superstitious  purposes ;  but  that  this  mass  was  ever  lifted  in  its 
pi'esent  position  for  such  an  end,  no  one  who  has  seen  it  will  believe.  As  in 
the  cases  of  the  Cheesewring  and  Kilmarth  rocks,  which  carry  holloAVs  of  a 
similar  kind  upon  their  surfaces,  the  position  of  such  rocks  is  the  result  of  the 
disintegration  of  the  earth  around,  and  its  conveyance  by  the  rains  to  lower 
ground,  leaving  the  indissoluble  matter  in  its  original  position.     The  church- 


136  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

town  of  Constantine  lies  south  of  the  Tolmen,  near  where  two  rivulets  form 
the  creek  of  Polwheverill,  and  fall  into  the  Helford  river,  on  the  northern 
shore.  There  is  a  singular  escape  recorded  by  Hals,  of  an  inhabitant  of  this 
parish,  whose  name  was  Chapman.  The  vicinity  of  the  roads  in  the  mining 
districts  contains  numerous  abandoned  shafts;  and  frequently  they  lie  over 
commons  unprotected  by  fences  on  either  side,  so  that  strangers  in  dark  nights 
may  easily  fall  into  them.  Mr.  Chapman  had  been  to  the  town  of  Redruth, 
about  seven  miles  off,  and  was  returning  with  his  servant ;  both  master  and 
man,  the  worse  for  what  they  had  drank,  and  yet  not  so  far  gone  as  to  forget 
that  they  had  to  pass  over  these  dangerous  places,  and  to  reflect  that  it  would 
be  prudent  to  dismount  and  lead  their  horses.  The  servant  proceeding  first, 
leading  his  own  horse,  did  not  immediately  miss  his  master,  who  suddenly 
walked  into  a  shaft  twenty  fathoms  deep ;— his  horse,  starting  back,  escaped. 
About  fifteen  fathoms  down  he  was  stopped  by  a  cross  drift;  below  which 
was  six  fathoms  of  water.  Here  upon  his  fall  ending,  and  finding  the  earth 
and  stones  he  brought  down  with  him  plash  in  water  below,  he  succeeded  in 
preserving  his  position,  so  as  not  to  fall  further,  when  he  must  inevitably 
perish.  He  kept  his  feet  against  the  opposite  side  of  the  shaft,  drove  his 
sword  into  the  earth  to  hold  by,  and,  in  great  fear,  lay  athwart  and  suspended 
over  the  abyss  beneath.  This  state,  extraordinary  to  say,  he  endured  for 
seventeen  hours,  when  those  who  were  searching  for  his  body,  as  they  sup- 
posed, in  some  shafts  near,  heard  his  groans,  set  a  tackle  over  the  mine,  and 
descending  fastened  a  rope  round  his  body,  and  drew  him  to  the  surface,  very 
little  injured,  though  he  had  fallen  ninety  feet;  and  had  he  gone  three  feet 
lower  he  must  have  sunk  in  the  water,  having  escaped  being  dashed  to 
pieces  against  the  sides  of  the  shaft.  Mr.  Chapman  lived  many  years  after 
this  miraculous  escape ;  his  seat  was  at  Carwithenick,  now  the  property  of 
Mr.  Hill. 

The  atmosphere  was  hazy  when  we  quitted  Falmouth  for  Mawnan,  situated 
on  the  extreme  point  of  the  Helford  river,  upon  the  eastern  shore.  We  de- 
scended a  hill  by  the  sea,  just  beyond  Falmouth,  and  came  to  a  species  of  lake, 
called  Swanpool,  separated  by  a  bar  of  sand  and  pebbles  from  Falmouth  Bay. 
We  could  not  see  the  termination  inland,  from  the  haze ;  above  which  we  soon 
after  mounted,  and  saw  the  sea  and  land  covered  with  fleecy  vapour,  upon 
which  the  sun  shone  bright.  The  summit  of  Pendennis  Castle,  with  one  or 
two  elevated  points  besides,  pierced  above  this  bed  of  vapour,  which  obscured 
the  whole  horizon,  rising  like  islands  out  of  a  sea  of  cotton  flakes.  The  heaven 
above  was  cloudless  ;  a  more  beautiful  sight  could  scarcely  be  conceived.  We 
imagined  ourselves  the  sole  habitants  of  the  nether  world,  in  a  solitude  of  the 
most  singular  character,  elevated  on  the  point  of  a  hill  that  constituted  our 
universe.  Presently  breaks  began  in  the  fleecy  plain  beneath  us,  and  exhi- 
bited through  them  the  sea,  and  bits  of  land.  These  breaks  widening,  the  flaky 
vapour  began  heaving  and  wreathing,  in  cloudy  convolutions ;  till  at  length  it 


CORNWALL. 


131 


rolled  away  to  seaward,  and  the  nether  world  appeared  itself  again,  refulgent 
with  the  sunbeams,  the  ocean  sparkling,  and  nature  spread  out,  decked  in  the 
uncloying  witchery  of  a  summer  morning  in  the  south  of  England. 

We  proceeded  parallel  with  the  sea ;  and  passed,  situated  on  the  right  hand, 
Penwarne,  once  the  estate  and  residence  of  a  very  ancient  family  of  that  name, 
a  name  by  which  the  whole  district  thereabouts  was  known  in  the  time  of 
Alfred,  and  under  that  name  taxed  in  Doomsday  book,  1087.  Hals  says 
that  in  his  time  the  barton  of  Penwarne  had  upon  it  a  free  chapel  and  burying 
place,  before  Mawnan  church  was  built,  and  by  being  in  possession  of  the  lands 
of  Pen-gwarne,  or  Penwarne,  that  the  head  of  the  Penwarne  family  was  bailiff,  or 
lord,  of  the  hundred  of  Kirrier,  by  inheritance.  This  respectable  family  began 
to  decay  in  Queen  Elizabeth's  time,  when  Mr.  Peter  Penwarne  parted  with 
all  his  lands  except  the  barton.  In  1732,  another  Mr.  Peter  Penwarne  died, 
leaving  two  sons ;  his  grandson,  Mr.  John  Penwarne,  and  the  representative  of 
this  old  family,  practised  the  law  at  Penryn,  and  died  in  London,  in  1836,  at 
the  age  of  eighty,  deservedly  respected  for  his  talents  and  virtues,  leaving  a  son 
and  a  daughter.  The  Penwarne  property  was  purchased  by  Mr.  Noel,  a  mer- 
chant of  Falmouth,  who  was  afterwards  knighted ;  and  now  belongs  to  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Ustick,  his  nephew. 

Near  Mawnan  church,  an  ancient 
edifice  here  depicted,  a  glorious  pro- 
spect opens  upon  the  stranger.  The 
church  stands  not  far  from  the  cliffs, 
on  the  northern  side  of  the  en- 
trance to  Helford  river,  and  still  more 
to  the  north  is  Rosemullion  head, 
which  with  Anthony  or  the  Zoze 
point,  form  two  horns  of  Falmouth 
Bay,  commanding  a  very  beautiful 
field  of  view.  The  prospect  up  the 
Helford  river,  and  the  fertile  land  on  the  opposite  side,  is  equally  fine.  Keep- 
ing parallel  with  that  river,  we  reached  the  passage  house,  and  crossed  over  to 
Helford,  a  village  with  some  little  trade,  and  thence  proceeded  to  Manaccan, 
once  the  residence  of  the  Rev.  R.  Polwhele,  the  historian  of  Cornwall,  who  was 
the  rector.  It  has  nothing  worthy  of  observation,  but  the  metallic  substance 
called  manaccanite  was  first  discovered  in  this  parish.  There  are  some  noble 
views  from  hence  across  the  sea,  over  St.  Anthony's  church,  and  the  mouth 
of  the  Helford  river,  to  the  castles  of  Pendennis  and  St.  Mawes,  with  the  higher 
land  beyond  all ;  an  extended  coup-d'osiL  Little  Dinas,  here,  was  fortified  to 
defend  the  entrance  of  the  Helford  river,  and  held  out  for  Charles  I.,  until 
forced  to  surrender ;  and  near  the  church  are  ruins,  where  the  remains  of  human 
bodies  have  been  found — the  site,  it  is  supposed,  of  a  religious  house.  There 
are  also  some  remains  of  ancient  camps,  called  Great  and  Little  Dinas,  in 

T 


-  skSS^I 


138  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

St.  Anthony  parish ;  they  consist  of  triple  entrenchments,  and  Little  Dinas 
was  the  site  of  the  fortified  post  above  mentioned,  as  holding  out  for 
Charles  I.  South-west  of  St.  Anthony  and  Manaccan,  is  the  church-town 
of  St.  Martin.  There  is  nothing  worthy  of  notice  in  this  parish,  which,  in 
common  with  all  parishes  bounded  northwards  by  the  Loe  Pool  and  Hel- 
ford  river,  is  said  to  be  "  in  Meneage."  In  the  bordering  parish  of  Mawgan, 
three  noted  Cornish  families, — the  Roskymers,  Carminows,  and  Vyvyans, — 
once  had  their  residences :  the  latter  only  now  remain,  at  an  ancient  seat 
named  Trelowarren.  On  the  accession  of  George  I.,  and  during  the  Pre- 
tender's excitement  to  a  rebellion  in  the  behalf  of  the  Stuarts,  Sir  Richard 
Vyvyan,  a  well-known  Jacobite  here,  was  arrested  and  sent  to  the  Tower. 
The  messenger  is  said  to  have  been  delayed  at  an  inn  in  the  eastern  part  of 
the  county,  on  some  excuse,  while  an  emissary  reached  Trelowarren,  and 
gave  its  owner  notice,  which  enabled  him  to  destroy  many  papers  that 
might  have  afforded  evidence  against  him,  but  none  of  sufficient  weight 
being  forthcoming,  the  prisoner  was  discharged,  with  one  or  two  others  who 
were  arrested  at  the  same  time.  The  Boscawens,  perhaps  the  most  ancient 
county  family,  subsequently  the  Lords  Falmouth,  were  laudably  instrumental 
in  securing  the  county,  and  preventing  any  display  in  favour  of  the  Pretender 
by  the  enemies  of  the  house  of  Brunswick,  having  previously  assisted  in  bring- 
ing about  the  expulsion  of  James  II.  This  parish  borders  on  the  Helford 
river,  opposite  St.  Keverne,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Lizard  promontory.  Who 
St.  Keverne,  this  patron  saint,  might  have  been,  or  when  he  lived,  has  puzzled 
many  wise  heads.  Some  imagine  that  he  is  the  same  with  St.  Kieran,  a  saint 
of  the  fifth  century  ;  or  perhaps  he  was  identical  with  St.  Kevin,  whose  friend- 
ship for  King  O'Toole  is  so  admirably  told  by  Mr.  Lover,  in  his  Irish  Stories, 
especially  when  the  character  of  St.  Keverne  is  taken  into  consideration.  It  is 
not  unlikely  he  was  an  importation  from  the  island,  which  in  those  times,  if 
we  are  to  believe  its  chroniclers,  concentrated  all  the  learning,  piety,  and  no 
doubt  the  larger  part  of  the  poverty  of  Western  Europe ;  for  in  the  year  800, 
Dusblan,  Machreu,  and  Maxlium,  from  thence,  doubled  the  Land's  End,  and 
arrived  in  Mounts  Bay,  in  a  boat  made  of  one  ox-hide  and  a  half,  being  unable 
to  afford  a  better,  and  with  only  seven  days'  provisions,  two  days'  of  which 
stock  only  was  exhausted  when  they  made  the  land.*  This  church  stands  on 
very  high  ground,  and  has  a  spire,  replacing  one  which  was  destroyed  by  light- 
ning in  1770,  in  the  month  of  February;  when  not  only  the  spire  was  rent  in 
pieces,  but  the  roof  of  the  church  itself,  and  the  stones  scattered  to  a  great 
distance.  The  vicar,  it  being  in  the  hours  of  divine  service,  was  struck  in- 
sensible ;  but  only  ten  persons  were  slightly  hurt,  though  nearly  the  whole 
congregation  was  struck  to  the  ground,  and  deprived  for  a  time  of  all  recollec- 
tion. Among  other  monuments,  there  is  one  to  the  memory  of  Major-General 
H.  G.  C.  Cavendish,  Captain  Duckenfield,  and  the  Hon.  E.  Waldgrave,  who, 

*  Matliew  of  Westminster. 


CORNWALL.  139 

with  sixty-one  soldiers,  perished  by  shipwreck,  in  the  Despatch  transport,  in 
Coverack  Cove,  returning  from  Spain,  in  December  1809,  it  is  generally  sup- 
posed through  the  mismanagement  of  the  master  of  the  transport.  There  are 
numerous  coves  on  the  sea  shore  in  this  parish ;  where  fishermen's  boats  are 
kept,  and  successful  captures  of  fish  are  made ;  and  the  tithe  of  fish  was  once 
exacted  here,  the  right  to  it  being  transferred  in  marriage  settlements.  This 
unjustifiable  claim  on  the  labour  of  the  poor,  being  only  defended  on  the 
plea  of  custom,  was  resisted :  a  trial  at  law  ensued ;  when  that  which  rea- 
son and  justice  equally  impugn,  but  custom  has  been  too  often  successfully 
pleaded  to  sanction,  was  overturned,  and  the  right  of  the  poor  to  the  pro- 
duce of  their  own  labour,  from  the  great  storehouse  of  all  mankind,  was  fully 
established. 

A  wonderful  escape  is  recorded  of  eight  persons,  belonging  to  this  parish, 
going  home  from  Falmouth,  in  1702.  They  were  in  an  undecked  boat  of  five 
tons  burthen,  and  were  driven  out  to  sea  during  a  dark  and  stormy  night. 
The  gale  continuing  all  the  two  following  days  and  nights,  the  people  on 
board  at  last  descried  the  coast  of  Normandy, — having  been  driven  a  hundred 
leagues  from  Falmouth, — where,  though  it  was  war  time,  they  were  kindly 
treated  and  sent  home  again,  eight  weeks  after  their  departure ;  having  been 
three  nights  and  four  days  on  the  sea,  during  the  tempest.  Fortunately,  one  of 
the  persons  in  the  boat  was  a  woman,  who,  being  an  inn-keeper,  was  taking 
back  with  her  from  Falmouth  some  white  bread  and  three  or  four  gallons  of 
brandy,  which  preserved  their  lives,  as  the  accident  took  place  in  the  in- 
clement month  of  January.  It  is  singular  how  a  good  turn  done  to  a  fellow- 
creature  is  often  unexpectedly  rewarded,  for  one  of  the  eight  persons  in  this 
boat,  a  Mr.  Samms,  as  soon  as  he  and  his  party  got  on  shore,  exhausted,  was 
recognised  among  the  armed  men  who  came  to  demand  who  they  were,  by  a 
French  gentleman,  who  said,  "  I  know  your  person,  and  recollect  your  kind- 
ness when  I  was  once  cast  away  on  the  coast  of  Cornwall,"  and  embraced  him. 
This  kind  Frenchman  then  paid  them  all  the  most  humane  attention,  and  their 
story  and  escape  reaching  the  court,  Louis  XIV.  ordered  them  to  be  sent 
home  on  the  first  opportunity. 

This  parish  partly  consists  of  magnesian  rocks,  and  partly  of  calcareous ; 
diallage,  and  the  serpentine  of  the  Lizard,  traversed  by  asbestos,  are  also 
discoverable  within  its  limits.  Upon  the  serpentine,  but  there  only,  the 
most  beautiful  of  heaths  grows  in  astonishing  profusion ;  the  erica  vagans 
of  Linnseus,  sometimes  denominated  midtiflora,  and  didyma,  from  the  double 
antherae  of  the  flowers.  It  is  singular  that  the  growth  of  this  plant  is  strictly 
limited  over  the  serpentine  rock,  appearing  again  on  a  patch  of  that  rock  near 
Liskeard,  and  it  marks  the  border  to  within  a  yard  or  two  of  distance.  A  bed 
of  roses  is  more  fragrant,  but  cannot  surpass  in  beauty  of  form  and  richness  of 
colour,  these  heaths  of  the  West  of  Cornwall.  The  erica  vagans  is  seen  no 
where  besides  in  England,  and  the  large  purple  and  white  heaths,  that  grow 


140  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

at  the  Land's  End,  are  equally  fine,  though  not  of  the  same  rare  species, 
literally  enamelling  the  ground.* 

This  parish,  with  Mawgan  in  Meneage,  adjoining,  contains  some  of  the  most 
fertile  land  in  England ;  indeed  the  whole  of  the  peninsula  of  the  Lizard,  par- 
ticularly on  the  eastern  side,  confesses  in  its  powers  of  production,  a  southern 
latitude,  although  exposed  to  western  storms.  Both  corn  and  grass  are  thrown 
up  between  the  rocks  that  abound  here,  with  wonderful  affluence,  owing  to 
the  genial  nature  of  the  climate,  among  which  water  does  not  lodge,  while 
moisture  from  the  atmosphere  is  never  wanting.  Sixty  Winchester  bushels 
of  wheat  have  been  harvested  from  an  acre ;  and  baiiey  is  sown  and  reaped  in 
nine  or  ten  weeks,  yielding  above  seventy  bushels  the  acre,  seventy-five  being 
a  common  crop.  It  will  not  be  out  of  place  while  in  this  fertile  district,  to 
notice  in  brief  the  agriculture  of  the  county,  which  has  hitherto  been  only 
a  secondary  pursuit.  It  is  not  easy  to  say  what  proportion  of  the  land  is 
waste,  but  Borlase,  more  than  fourscore  years  ago,  calculated  the  lands  of 
every  hundred  as  twenty  cultivated  to  eleven  waste ;  the  state  of  things  now, 
from  the  great  number  of  enclosures  since,  must  be  very  different.  It  is  pro- 
bable that  the  waste  land  at  present  is  much  under  200,000  acres,  taking  the 
superficies  at  850,000.  But  although  so  much  land  has  been  brought  in,  the 
supply  of  corn  has  not  been  equal  to  the  demands  of  the  population,  as  it  was 
in  Camden's  time ;  and  the  price  of  grain  is  generally  too  high. 

The  more  productive  districts  are  placed  on  both  sides  of  the  high  central 
ridge,  which  forms  the  backbone  of  the  county,  covered  with  heaths  and  rocky 
wastes  stretching  from  the  Tamar  to  the  Land's  End.  Bound  Stratton, 
on  the  north-east,  there  is  a  fertile  district,  producing  much  corn,  bounded  in 

*  The  erica  vagans,  and  erica  ciliaris  ;  Sibthorpia  Europsoa ;  asparagus  officinalis  ;  carduus  aconitis ; 
panicum  dactylon  ;  tamarix  Gallica  ;  ligusticum  Cornubiense  ;  the  hybrid  antirrhinum  linaria,  called 
peloria ;  osmunda  regalis,  and  many  of  the  Cryptogamia ;  fuschia  gracilis,  nine  feet  six  inches 
high,  by  forty  feet  in  circumference,  and  eight  or  nine  other  species ;  the  hydrangea,  six  feet  six  high, 
and  forty-five  in  circumference  ;  agapanthus  umbellatus  ;  aristolochia  sempervirens  ;  aster  argophy- 
lus;  Bouvardia  tryphilla;  calceolaria,  five  or  six  species;  collectea  spinosa,  from  Chili ;  camellia 
Japonica,  several  varieties;  Charlwoodia  Australis,  covered  with  a  mat  on  frosty  nights;  eriocephalus 
Africanus ;  echium  nervosum,  five  feet  four  inches  high,  stem  six  inches  in  diameter,  twenty-five 
feet  in  circumference,  and  from  thirty  to  forty  spikes  of  flowers ;  many  varieties  of  geranium  ;  helio- 
tropium  corymbosum ;  jasminum  revolutum ;  leonitus  leonurus,  covering  eighteen  feet  of  wall ; 
Richardia  -flithiopica;  vergilia  capensis,  seven  feet  three  inches  high ;  verbena  chamoidryoides  and 
pulchella  ;  olea  fragrans,  on  a  south  wall,  and  many  others,  grow  without  protection  in  the  open  air, 
in  the  west  of  Cornwall. 

TI12  indigenous  plants  of  Western  Cornwall  are  numerous  ;  among  them,  besides  some  named  in 
the  above  list,  are  Alisma,  of  two  varieties  ;  bee  orchis  ;  camomile  ;  eryngium,  or  sea  holly  ;  field  gen- 
tian ;  common  alkanet ;  columbine  ;  lesser  snapdragon  ;  heath  shield  fern  ;  sea  cabbage ;  sea  rocket; 
campanula  hederacea ;  sea  centaury  ;  convolvulus  Soldanella ;  daucus  maritimus ;  euphorbia  peplis  ; 
exacum  filiforme  ;  geranium  columbinum  and  sanguineum  ;  glaucum  luteum  ;  various  curious  mosses; 
bergamot  mint ;  round-leaved  mint ;  myrica  gale,  Dutch  myrtle  ;  orchis  pyramidalis  ;  star  of  Bethle- 
hem ;  fernfew  ;  wild  madder  ;  woad  ;  santolina  maritima  ;  hairy  saxifrage  ;  orpine  ;  vernal  squill ; 
sedum  anglicum  ;  trifolium  subterraneum  ;  and  others,  too  numerous  to  catalogue  in  a  note,  grow  in 
the  open  air  in  Cornwall,  and  several  of  the  first  enumerated  above  are  indigenous. 


CORNWALL.  141 

one  direction  by  unproductive  moor  land ;  and  on  the  same  northern  side  of  the 
central  heights,  there  is  another  rich  district,  extending  along  the  banks  of  the 
Camel  river  from  Lanteglos  to  Padstow,  and  from  thence  to  Cubert,  west- 
wards, where  wonderful  crops  are  produced.  So  good  is  the  soil,  that  they  sow 
first  wheat,  then  barley,  without  any  intermediate  crop,  and  having  sown 
grass-seed  Avith  the  barley,  cut  it  for  hay  the  next  year ;  then  giving  one 
year's  rest,  they  repeat  this  practice  perpetually,  and  get  in  return  per 
acre  from  twenty-four  to  thirty-five  bushels  of  wheat,  and  from  thirty  to 
forty-five  of  barley.  Still  further  westward  upon  the  northern  coast,  at  Phil- 
lack,  ninety  bushels  of  barley  have  been  produced  upon  one  acre.  In  truth, 
the  diversity  of  soil  in  Cornwall  is  great,  and  implies  in  itself  a  great  diver- 
sity in  fertility.  The  demand  for  timber  in  former  times  caused  all  that  was 
serviceable  for  that  purpose  to  be  used  for  refining  ores,  or  in  the  machinery 
of  the  mines,  while  the  consequent  exposed  surface  of  the  higher  lands  forbade 
the  spontaneous  growth  of  wood;  hence  there  is  no  shelter  of  that  kind. 
Along  the  southern  coast,  and  in  the  vales  and  low  grounds,  which  run  up 
high  inland,  there  are  rich  loams  and  marls.  The  most  common  soil  is 
black  growan,  as  it  is  locally  termed,  prevalent  on  the  higher  lands,  consisting 
of  black  earth,  intermingled  with  gravel  or  disintegrated  granite  ;  below  this 
a  bed  of  quartz  sometimes  interposes,  and  below  that  a  yellowish  clay.* 
Those  who  go  to  the  expense  of  removing  the  quartz  always  find  their  account 
in  the  creation  of  estates  permanently  and  abundantly  productive ;  but  in  many 
districts  the  ground  has  only  to  be  turned  up  to  become  capable  of  bearing 
grain  of  any  kind.  Among  the  growans  spaces  are  often  found  filled  with 
excellent  vegetable  earth,  that,  when  drained,  makes  good  meadow  land.  A 
second,  and  very  productive  soil,  consists  of  decomposed  schist,  which  throws 
up  excellent  wheat  and  barley,  even  to  the  verge  of  the  cliffs  overhanging  the 
ocean ;  and  the  soil  over  the  granite  in  the  west  of  the  county  is  fertile,  it  would 
seem,  in,  proportion  to  the  smallness  of  its  elevation  above  the  sea.  There  is 
a  good  reddish  soil  occasionally  met  with  resembling  clay. 

From  the  Tamar  to  the  Fowey,  on  the  southern  side  of  the  county, 
stretching  up  the  shores  of  the  former  river  a  good  way,  and  inland  from  the 
sea  to  Liskeard,  there  is  a  very  fertile  district,  producing  immense  crops  of 
corn ;  for  here  climate,  soil,  and  the  convenience  of  lime  carriage,  all  contribute 
to  the  fertility.  Between  the  Fowey  and  Fal,  particularly  in  Pvoseland,  the 
fertility  is  no  where  surpassed.  Continuing  along  the  same  shore,  across  the 
river  Hel,  the  eastern  side  of  the  Lizard  has  been  already  noticed.  By  Mounts 
Bay  sixty  bushels  of  wheat  have  been  raised  on  an  acre ;  and  it  is  said  that 

*  The  clays  of  Cornwall  are  found  in  useful  variety.  There  is  white  from  decomposed  granite, 
used  for  making  china,  exported  in  great  quantity  ;  pipe  clay ;  several  species  used  hy  metallic 
casters ;  Lennant  clay,  for  making  furnaces ;  Ludgvan  clay,  used  for  assaying ;  Liskeard  clay,  a 
species  of  steatite  ;  and  at  Truro,  a  crucible  clay  which  stands  the  fiercest  fire.  Ochreous  earths  are 
numerous  :  iron  ochre  is  called  gossan. 


142  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

1,000  acres  round  Penzance  now  let  for  10,000/.  per  annum.  Barley,  as  well  as 
wheat,  and  all  grain,  is  bound  in  sheaves,  and  built  up  in  the  field  in  the  form 
of  a  cone,  the  heads  turned  inwards,  and  an  inverted  sheaf  or  reed  straw 
tied  on  the  apex,  by  which  means  it  is  secured  from  the  Aveather.  The 
internal  parts  of  the  county  and  highlands  are  only  cultivated  here  and  there 
in  patches.  The  farmers  on  the  coasts  about  Padstow  and  Fowey  do  not 
send  their  surplus  wheat  to  the  thickly-peopled  western  districts,  finding  it 
more  convenient  to  sell  to  the  merchant ;  while  large  tracts  of  land  lie  waste 
which  are  very  capable  of  cultivation.  The  duchy  lands  are  by  far  the  most 
extensive  of  those  possessed  by  any  single  proprietor,  and  they  were  once 
much  more  so.  The  farms  are  generally  small,  commonly  granted  upon  leases 
for  lives,  and  in  the  mining  districts  are  smaller  than  elsewhere.  The  manage- 
ment of  land  is  generally  to  make  it  bear  grain  as  long  as  it  is  found  profit- 
able, and  then  to  grass  it  for  some  years  until  it  has  recovered.  They  pare 
and  burn  the  surface,  and  for  manure  use  ashes,  sea-sand,  sea-weed,  lime, 
refuse  salt,  and  dung  from  the  farm-yard  or  town,  when  it  is  to  be  obtained, 
with  the  refuse  of  the  pilchard  fishery ;  an  excellent  manure,  bought  at  10s. 
the  Cornish  bushel,  (three  Winchester,)  and  unequalled  for  green  crops,  when 
mingled  with  sand  or  earth,  to  prevent  its  forcing  too  luxurious  a  plant. 
The  farmers  say  that  one  fish  will  fertilize  a  square  foot  of  land  for  many 
years,  and  that  after  this  apparent  exhaustion  a  small  quantity  of  quicklime 
ploughed  in  will  revive  decomposition,  and  impart  fresh  fertility.  Many 
farmers  follow  the  later  improvements  in  husbandry,  but  too  many  continue 
wedded  to  old  prejudices,  when  turnips  are  sown  after  wheat ;  the  manure  used 
is  dung  and  sea-sand ;  after  which  barley  and  grass  seeds  follow.* 

The  implements  of  husbandry  are  those  of  the  sister  county,  but  the  farm 
vehicles  are  of  all  kinds.  The  spade  is  little  used ;  the  shovel,  a  larger  and 
more  powerful  instrument,  being  generally  adopted ;  hence  the  labourer 
seldom  exhibits  that  crippled  appearance  of  the  back,  too  often  observable 
where  the  spade  is  habitual.  The  Cornish  plough  is  a  very  simple  instru- 
ment, and  has  borne  off  the  prize  against  fourteen  different  sorts  in  the  county 
ploughing  matches. 

*  The  sands  used  for  manure  in  Cornwall  must  not  be  confounded  with  fine  gravel.  They  are 
taken  wet  with  sea-water,  and  mingled  with  earth  before  they  are  laid  on,  and  consist  almost  wholly 
of  comminuted  shells.  How  the  ocean  supplies  such  exhaustless  stores  of  this  material  seems  wonder- 
ful. Shells  are  lime  ;  and  this  manure,  therefore,  consists  in  reality  of  lime  and  sea-salt.  At  Kinance 
Cove,  among  the  serpentine  the  sand  is  very  beautiful  and  shining.  The  sandy  coves  are  numerous, 
and  portions  of  them  partake  of  the  colour  of  the  surrounding  strata  as  well  as  of  shells.  Some  are 
pale  blue  ;  others  reddish,  or  bright  and  glossy  from  intermingled  talc  ;  others  are  yellow,  or  white  ; 
and  some  angular  from  fracture,  while  other  kinds  are  rounded.  The  coral  sand  is  most  valued  for 
manure,  and  is  principally  found  on  the  southern  coast. 

The  shells  in  Cornwall  which  are  most  noted  are  the  following,  and  some  are  very  beautiful. 
The  blue-rayed  limpet ;  tellina  proficua ;  cardium  exiguum,  a  nondescript  species  of  Venus,  which 
Maton  named  "  cardioides ;"  mactra  Listeri  is  found  very  perfect  in  the  Carnon  stream  works  ;  patella 
pellicida ;  p.  fissura ;  mytilus  modiolus ;  trochus  conulus  ;  turbo  cimex,  and  turbo  fasciatus :  helix 


CORNWALL  143 

Potatoes  are  the  great  resource  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  west  of  Cornwall ; 
this  root  succeeds  well,  two  crops,  consisting  of  900  Winchester  bushels, 
having  been  grown  upon  an  acre  on  the  shore  of  Mounts  Bay.  In  the 
common  mode  of  ploughing,  at  the  end  of  April,  after  paring  and  burning, 
from  450  to  600  bushels  are  often  produced ;  this  is  owing  to  the  summer 
never  being  too  dry,  and  the  earth  being  always  warm. 

The  harvest  is  commonly  begun  in  July,  or  during  the  first  week  in  August. 
Red  and  yellow  clover,  trefoil,  rye  grass,  turnips,  ruta  baga,  and  cabbages  of 
various  kinds,  are  the  most  common  crops.  Wheat  sowing  generally  begins 
at  the  end  of  September.  Oats  are  sown  in  February  and  March,  with  both 
rye  and  pilez,  the  Avena  nuda  of  many  naturalists.  The  pilez  is  sown  upon 
poor  land,  and  furnishes  a  species  of  oatmeal,  or  is  given  to  fowls ;  the  vulgar 
name  is  "  pellows."  The  cottages  are  built  of  stone  or  cob,  many  of  them 
thatched,  and  others  slated,  when  the  latter  stone  is  easy  of  carriage ;  but 
most  modern  farm  buildings  are  of  stone,  and  slated ;  many  good  dwellings  are 
of  cob  upon  a  foundation  of  stone.  Most  cottages  have  a  garden  attached ; 
and  in  many  of  them  the  miners  employ  their  leisure  time,  sometimes  taking  a 
little  land  in  addition  out  of  the  common  and  fencing  it,  cropping  the  ground 
with  potatoes ;  the  land  being  had  upon  easy  terms,  on  a  lease  for  ninety-nine 
years  and  lives.  We  may  add  that  Cornwall  in  general  now  partakes  in  the 
agricultural  improvements  of  our  other  counties,  in  reference  to  tillage  and 
the  breed  of  stock. 

The  cattle  are  generally  of  the  Devonshire  sort ;  all  kinds  have  been  in- 
troduced, and  one  breed,  designated  Cornish,  does  not  exceed  six  hundred 
weight,  when  fat,  running  upon  the  wastes  a  good  part  of  the  year.  The 
horses  are  of  mixed  races,  of  all  kinds ;  the  genuine  Cornish  horse  is  rare, 
the  breed  small,  hardy,  and  sure  footed.  Mules,  formerly  used  to  a  great 
extent  for  carrying  ores,  are  discontinued  in  many  places  ;  and  the  number  of 
pack-saddle  horses  also,  by  which  means  almost  everything  was  formerly  con- 
veyed, though  dung  pots  are  still  used  the  old  way  in  hilly  districts.  The 
small  sheep,  which  feed  upon  the  "towans,"  or  sandhills,  cropping  a  short 
sweet  grass,  near  the  sea,  yield  a  mutton  of  a  very  prime  character,  much 
esteemed  in  the  county. 

maculosa,  a  rare  species  ;  patella  radiata,  and  striis  rugosis ;  the  fools'  cap  ;  sword-tooth  shell ;  wavy 
striated  trochus,  pearl  coloured ;  striated  papillaceous  top-shell  pearl  coloured ;  nautilus  (rare) ; 
white  ruddy-spotted  snail ;  smooth  flat-twisted  river  snail ;  cornua  ammonis  snail ;  the  high,  striated 
white  cochlea,  or  bastard  ventle-trap  ;  yellow  conulated  chalke,  with  black  furrows ;  small  red  and 
white  variegated  ditto ;  small  white  smooth  ditto  ;  small  needle  ditto  ;  purple  marked  ditto  ;  purple 
spotted  cowries,  or  nuns  ;  smaller  ditto,  without  spots  ;  larger  striped  concha  Veneris  ;  quadrangular 
striated  muscle  ;  a  small  and  rare  species  of  ditto  ;  smooth  foliated  purple  concha ;  winged  scallop ; 
rough  echinated  scallop  ;  regularly  marked  ditto  ;  purple  ditto,  variegated  with  white  circular  fillets  ; 
purple  ribbed  ditto;  light  purple  tellina,  with  horizontal  striae,  eminent,  and  parallel  to  the  margin  ; 
white  crooked-bill  bivalve  of  the  barnicle ;  polished  tellina,  with  a  serrated  edge;  flat,  smooth,  small 
sea-egg  ;  round  and  flat  ditto  ;  depressed  cordate  ditto  ;  narrow-mouthed  balanus  ;  wide-mouthed  ditto. 
Fossil  shells  are  rare  in  Cornwall,  owing  to  the  rocks  being,  for  the  most  part,  of  primitive  formation. 


144  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

The  duchy  lands  in  Cornwall  consisted  of  seventeen  manors  in  the  time  of 
Edward  III.     The  duchy  belongs  by  right  to  the  son  of  the  king  regnant, 
who  is  heir  apparent  to  the  crown ;   and  as  such  requires  no  investment  or 
creation  to  obtain  the  right  and  title,  Avhereas  the  princedom  of  Wales  requires 
a  new  creation  for  every  succeeding  prince.     The  property  originally  con- 
sisted of  the  castles,  manors,  parks  or  boroughs  of  Launceston,  Trematon  and 
Saltash,   Tintagcl,   Restormel,  Clymesland,   and  park  of  Kerrybolock ;    the 
manor  of  Tibesta  and  bailiwick  of  Powdershire ;  the  manor  of  Tewynton ; 
manor  and  borough  of  Helston  ;  manors  of  Moresk,  Penkneth,  Penlyn  with 
the  park,   Relaton,   or  Rillaton,  with  the  beadlery  of  Eastwy velshire ;    the 
manor  of  Helston  in  Trigshire,  and  park  of  Hellesbury  ;  the  manor,  borough, 
and  park  of  Liskeard ;  the  manor  and  fishery  of  Kellestock ;  the  manor  of 
Talskydo;  and  the  borough  or  town  of  Lostwithiel.     The  Duchy  of  Corn- 
wall also  includes  the  fee-farm  of  the  city  of  Exeter ;  the  manor  of  Lydford, 
and  whole  of  Dartmoor ;    the  manor  and  borough  of  Brodnish ;    and  the 
water  and  river  of  Dartmouth,  in  Devonshire.    Wallingford,  in  Oxfordshire  ; 
Berkhampstead,  in  Herts ;    Byfleet,   in   Surrey ;   Meere,  in  Wilts ;    Knares- 
borough,  in  York ;  Isleworth,  in  Middlesex ;  Kennington,  and  other  lands  in 
Surrey ;  Bising  manor,  in  Norfolk ;  and  the  manor  of  Chislemere,  in  Coven- 
try, belonged  to  this  duchy ;  but  Henry  V.  separated  Isleworth  to  form  the 
monastery  of  Sion,  and  conveyed  other  lands  in  lieu,  worth  200/.  per  annum 
more  to  the  duchy.     Henry  VIII.  severed  Wallingford  and  its  castle  from 
the  Duchy  of  Cornwall,   but  annexed  in  its  place  the  following  manors  in 
the  county,  viz.  those  of  Westanton,  Port  Low,  North  Hill,  Port  Pigham, 
Laudren,  Triloweia,  Tregonoe,  Trelagon,  Crofthole,  Trevithern,   Courtney, 
Landulph,  Leighdura,  and  Tinton,  forfeited  by  Henry  Courtney,  Marquis  of 
Exeter.     This  king  also  added  seven  other  manors,  which  he  took  away  from 
Tywardreth  monastery,  and  eleven  that  were  the  property  of  the  priory  of 
Launceston.     In  all  there  were  ten  castles,  now  in  ruins ;  nine  parks ;  one 
forest ;  fifty-three  manors ;  thirteen  boroughs,  or  towns  ;  nine  hundreds  ;  and 
extensive  tracts  of  waste  or  moor-ground.    The  produce  of  these  in  the  time  of 
Henry  VIII.  was  10,095/.  lis.  9|c/.— a  very  large  sum  for  those  days.     The 
tin  coinage  dues  out  of  this  sum  were  2,771/.  3s.  d\d.     A  large  part  of  these 
possessions  were  alienated  by  the   Stuarts  to  favourites,  frittered  away  by 
ill-management,  or  sold  to  raise  money.     The  estates  of  the  duchy  are  gene- 
rally farmed  on  leases  of  lives,  renewable  ;  some  for  fine  certain,  others  upon 
a  calculation  of  value,  and  have  been  so  ill-managed  as  to  bar  the  improve- 
ment which  would  have  taken  place  upon  the  property  of  private  individuals 
under  the  same  circumstances.     The  land  revenue  of  the  duchy  is  not  now 
more  than  5,000/.  per  annum,  with  the  tin  dues,  yielding  about  15,000/.     The 
other  landed  property  of  the  county  is  much  subdivided. 

There  are  numerous  plantations  in  Cornwall,  but  the  woods  are  chiefly  con- 
fined to  the  valleys ;  and  timber  is  too  valuable  even  there  to  be  permitted  to 


CORNWALL. 


145 


remain  to  any  great  age.  The  trees  planted  ai*e  the  spruce,  pineaster,  large, 
beech,  Cornish  and  wych  elm,  oak,  ash,  plane,  lime,  and  chestnut,  which  all  do 
well.  Fruit  trees  thrive  everywhere  The  apples  are  of  many  kinds,  some 
peculiar  to  the  county ;  but  very  little  cider  is  made  west  of  Truro.  Orchards 
are  plentiful,  and  plums,  peaches,  nectarines,  mulberries,  with  every  kind 
of  garden  fruit,  except  the  apricot,  are  common.  The  apricot  tree,  though  it 
bears  well  for  two  or  three  years,  afterwards  declines  and  cease3  to  bear  at  all, 
in  several  parts  of  the  county.  In  horticulture,  every  vegetable  comes  to  high 
perfection  that  is  carefully  cultivated. 

On  the  borders  of  St.  Keverne  parish,  near  the  Nare  Head,  there  is  a  fine 
view  across  Falmouth  Bay,  from  the  western  side  of  which  the  castle  of  Pen- 
dennis  is  seen  to  great  advantage  rising  boldly  ft-om  the  sea. 


Adjoining  St.  Keverne,  on  the  south,  is  the  parish  of  Kuan  Minor,  in  which 
is  the  little  fishing  cove  of  Cadgwith.  All  the  way  from  the  Manacles  to  the 
Lizard,  on  this  the  sheltered  side  of  the  peninsula,  is  a  succession  of  small  and 
pretty  coves,  as  Coverack,  Downance,  Lankidden,  Kennack,  Caerleon,  Cadg- 
with, and  others,  forming  a  variety  of  interesting  scenes  to  the  lover  of  the 
romantic  and  grand.  Grade,  a  small  parish,  intervenes  between  Kuan  Minor 
and  Landewednack ;  in  which  last  lies  the  celebrated  Point  of  the  Lizard, 
marked  by  two  light-houses,  to  distinguish  it  from  the  single  light  at  Scilly,  and 
the  three  at  Guernsey,  thus  preventing  mistakes  which  might  be  fatal  to  mari- 
ners. The  church-town  lies  eastward  of  the  village  called  the  Lizard ;  while  this 
last  is  about  the  same  distance  northwards  from  the  cape  so  renowned, — the 
last  land  of  their  native  isle  that  was  visible  to  many  who  were  never  again 
destined  to  revisit  its  shores,  and  the  first  seen  by  joyous  spirits  whom 
years  and  climes  had  long  separated.  From  hence,  vessels  outward  bound  on 
voyages  that  have  become  matters  of  history,  took  the  observation  by  which 
they  were  to  career  over  the  bounding  deep  to  unvisited  shores :  and  proud 


u 


146 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


war-ships  dated  their  departure  to  scenes  of  disaster  or  conquest.  The  Lizard, 
the  most  southern  promontory  of  England,  stands  in  lat.  49°.  51'  55".  8  N., 
and  in  long.  5°."11'  17".  7.  W.  The  two  lighthouses,  which  are  about  half  a  mile 
south  of  the  village,  on  high  ground,  exhibit  nothing  remarkable  in  their 
appearance.  For  many  years  coal  fires  were  adopted  in  these  lighthouses,  they 
being  constructed  before  Argand  reflectors  were  introduced;  and  the  fires 
were  kept  bright  by  bellows,  which  ceasing  to  act  the  lights  became  dim. 
The  inventions  of  wiser  times  have  been  naturally  introduced,  and  the  coal 
has  long  ceased  to  "pale  its  ineffectual  fire"  in  dangerous  uncertainty.  The 
Lizard  is  an  excellent  place  for  a  geological  student,  combining  precipitous 
cliffs,  convenient  for  observation,  with  a  rare  conformation.  Nor  does  the 
botanist  find  it  less  interesting ;  for  here  are  many  rare  plants,  among  them 
the  erica  vagans  and  other  heaths,  the  asparagus  officinalis,  herniaria  glabra, 
and  beta  maritima. 

Passing  round  the  Lizard  Point,  the  coast  at  once  displays  the  effects  of  the 
continued  action  of  the  prevalent  west  and  south-west  winds.  Precipitous, 
shattered,  rugged,  and  consisting  of  hard  serpentine  rock,  it  sturdily  resists 
the  uncontrollable  fury  of  the  Atlantic  storms ;  and  from  hence  high  up  in 
Mount's  Bay  shows  a  most  inhospitable  shore,  near  which  if  a  ship  become 
embayed  there  is  no  hope  of  her  escape. 

A   short  distance  from 
the    Lizard  Point   is  Ki-  s  ^ 

nance  Cove,  studded  with 
rocks,  and  hollowed  into 
caverns  by  the  wintry  tem- 
pests. The  serpentine, 
beautifully  coloured  and 
veined,  is  exhibited  to  great 
advantage  by  the  action 
of  the  sea,  while  the  mag- 
nificence of  the  scenery 
is  renowned.  The  rock 
appears  polished  in  some  places,  with  all  its  variegated  colours ;  here  brown, 
there  green  or  purple ;  veined  with  red  or  some  lightish  colour,  always  differ- 
ent, and  continually  attracting  the  eye  by  novelty  of  tint.  There  is  a  funnel- 
shaped  cavern,  with  its  mouth  seawards,  having  a  small  hole  perforated 
quite  through  to  the  other  side  of  the  ledge  of  rock  in  which  it  is  situated ; 
and  at  half-tide,  when  it  is  sufficiently  clear  of  water,  the  waves  rolling  in, 
drive  the  air  before  them,  condensing  it  more  and  more  as  they  advance 
towards  the  narrow  end  terminating  in  the  hole ;  the  air  is  then  forced 
through  with  great  violence,  and  a  terrible  roaring  noise  is  heard  for  a  great 
distance ;  this  is  called  "  the  bellows,"  by  the  people  of  the  vicinity.  It  is 
upon  this  part  of  the  coast  that  the  steatite,  or  soap-stone,  is  raised  for  making 


CORNWALL. 


14! 


china,  occuring  in  veins  in  the  serpentine,  out  of  which,  and  very  near  the  sea, 
we  saw  some  workmen  raising  it.  Here  a  bleak  down,  called  Pradanack, 
extends  along  the  coast,  and  nearly  to  the  church-town  of  Kuan  Major  inland, 
than  which  nothing  can  be  more  desert  in  appearance ;  the  winds  sweeping 
over  the  surface,  directly  from  the  shoreless  Atlantic,  with  nothing  to  check 
or  turn  aside  their  full  action.  Crossing  Pradanack  Down,  we  arrived  at 
Mullion,  distinguished  by  its  coves,  rocks,  island,  and  a  sandy  shore,  for  ever 
white  with  ocean  foam. 

The  church  of  Mullion 
is  old,  and  some  stained 
glass  is  yet  left  in  the  win- 
dows, principally  the  arms 
of  families  now  extinct. 
The  tower  was  built  in 
1500.  There  is  a  monu- 
ment within  the  church 
to  the  memory  of  the 
Kev.  T.  Flavel,  who  died 
in  1682.*  Gunwallo,  to 
the  north  of  Mullion  pa- 
rish, is  said  to  have  been 
so  named  from  the  patron 
saint,  Winwallo,  a  petty 
Welsh  prince,  who  fled  into 
Brittany,  and  died  abbot  of  Landeveneck,  near  Brest,  in  529.  This  church 
stands  among  sandhills,  close  to  the  sea,f  and  the  parish  extends  to  the  Loe 
lake,  along  the  shore.  To  the  eastward  lie  Goonhilly  Downs,  celebrated  for 
their  breed  of  horses  in  days  of  yore,  so  denominated  from  goon,  a  down,  and 
holler,  to  hunt,  in  Cornish.  Cury,  a  parish  north  of  Gunwallo,  in  which  the 
families  of  Bonython  and  Bellot  have  left  traces,  is  small,  and  borders  upon 
Mawgan  in  Meneage,  already  mentioned ;  while  to  the  north,  Mawgan  inter- 
vening, is  the  ancient  borough  of  Helston. 

Helston,  twelve  miles  from  Falmouth,  is  a  pleasant  town,  consisting  of  two 
principal  streets,  broad  and  clean,  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  dis- 

*  The  following  lines  occur  upon  it : — 

"  Earth  take  mine  earth,  my  sin  let  Satan  have  it, 
The  world  my  goods,  my  soul  my  God  who  gave  it ; 
For  from  these  four,  earth,  Satan,  world,  and  God, 
My  flesh,  my  sin,  my  goods,  my  soul  I  had." 
t  Here  is  another  odd  inscription  on  a  tombstone  : — 

"  AVe  shall  die  all, 
Shall  die  all  we  ; 
Die  all  we  shall, 
All  we  shall  die." 


148  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

posed  on  the  sides  of  hills  which  descend  with  easy  slopes.     It  was  taxed  in 
the  Doomsday  record  as  Henliston,  and  is  a  stannary  town,  incorporated  first, 
it  is  supposed,  by  King  John.     It  returned  two  members  to  parliament  from 
the  time  of  Edward  I.,  latterly  under  the  nomination  of  a  patron  who  at  one 
time  corruptly  bargained  for  the  right,  by  paying  the  poor-rates.     Under  the 
Reform  Act  it  returns  but  one  member.     Owing  to  some  confusion  in  the 
charters,  in  the  early  part  of  the  reign  of  George  III.,  the  corporators,  in 
whom  was  vested  the  right  of  nominating,  rather  than  electing,  members  of 
parliament,  became  so  reduced  in  number  as  to  be  incapable  of  performing  any 
corporate  act,  though  conveniently  enough  they  could  still  nominate  the  repre- 
sentatives.    A  new  charter  was  accordingly  obtained,  the  individuals  named 
in  which  were  to  return  the  members ;  but  six  of  the  old  party  resisted  this, 
and  returned  the  members  themselves,  and  a  committee  of  the  House  of 
Commons  decided  for  the  smaller  number.     The  church  here  was  struck  by  a 
thunder  storm  in  1727  ;  and  Lord  Godolphin,  in  1763,  erected  a  new  one,  not 
in  the  best  taste,  though  sufficiently  spacious ;  it  is  dedicated  to  St.  Michael, 
and  is  a  daughter  church  of  Wendron,  a  rectory ;  the  incumbent  of  Wendron 
appointing  the  curate.     The  notorious  attorney-general,  Noy,  to  whose  advice 
Charles  I.  was  indebted  for  the  loss  of  his  crown,  sat  for  this  borough.     Hel- 
ston  was  one  of  the  decayed  towns  in  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII. ;  and  in  1694 
had   a   population   of  only   1,368,    but   in   1831    numbered   3,293.      In   the 
registers  of  the  see  of  Exeter,  mention  is  made  of  a  chapel  and  hospital  of 
St.  Mary  Magdalen,  in  Helston ;  and  there  is  a  grammar-school,  to  which  is 
paid  131.  6s.  8d.,  out  of  the  corporation  tolls.     Leland  says,  "An  hospital  of 
St.  John  is  yet  standing  at  the  west-south-west  end  of  the  town,  of  the  foun- 
dation of  one  Kylligrin,"  (Killigrew);  and  the  same  writer  adds  that  there 
had  been  a  castle  at  Helston.     The  place  where  the  hospital  of  St.  John  stood 
is  still  marked,  with  an  upright  stone  and  a  sword  graved  upon  it.    This  town, 
by  locality  so  remote  from  intercourse  with  the  rest  of  the  country,  and  out  of 
the  direct  line  of  great  roads,  is  noted  for  the  continuance  of  old  customs,  and 
the  kindly  manners  of  its  inhabitants  have  been  long  a  subject  of  remark ; 
here  traces  of  the  old  diversion  of  hurling  are  still  to  be  met  with.     Helston 
has  several  dissenting  places  of  worship,  Sunday -schools,  and  charities ;  and 
Mr.  Pcnberthy,  who  died  in  1783,  left  the  interest  of  500/.,  for  the  use  of  the 
poor  not  in  the  workhouse.     There  is  a  bowling-green,  kept  upon  the  site, 
as  it  is  supposed,  of  the  ancient  castle,  and  used  by  the  more  respectable  inha- 
bitants ;  and  the  town  is  celebrated,  from  time  immemorial,  for  a  festival  on 
the  8th  of  May,  which  some  have  considered,  but  erroneously,  a  remnant  of 
a  festival  in  honour  of  the  goddess  Flora.     It  is  called  the  "  Furry  Day ;"  and 
the  same  kind  of  commemoration  of  the  month  of  May  was  formerly  kept  at 
the  Lizard.     In  fact,  May-day  was  even  recently  a  species  of  holiday  through- 
out Cornwall ;  the  townspeople  decking  their  doors  with  green  boughs  of  the 
whitethorn,  when  in   blossom,    called  "  May,"  by  the  children  and  common 


CORNWALL.  149 

people.  The  word  Furry  is  derived  from  the  old  Cornish  feur,  a  fair,  or  holiday, 
according  to  Polwhele ;  but  Mr.  Davies  Gilbert  was  of  opinion  it  is  derived  from 
the  word  "  foray,"  a  word  used  by  the  Lowland  Scotch,  in  their  medley  of  a 
tongue,  formed  from  the  English  word  "  forage,"  to  rove  abroad  in  search  of 
plunder,  coming  from  the  Latin, — a  word  applicable  enough  to  the  mode  in 
which  the  semi-barbarous  chieftains  of  Scotland  lived  by  plundering  one 
another,  or  their  neighbours,  but  hardly  to  be  supposed  possible  of  application 
to  a  holiday  in  a  spot  so  remote  as  Helston ;  where  too,  a  different  language 
was' not  long  ago  spoken,  and  where  the  existence  of  the  festival  now  is  most 
probably  owing  to  remoteness  of  position,  the  small  accession  of  strangers 
among  the  inhabitants,  and  the  absence  of  the  habits  of  thinking  and  occupy- 
ing time  common  in  the  more  populous  towns  of  the  kingdom.  Mr.  Gilbert 
goes  on  by  applying  the  festival  to  the  celebration  of  a  victory  over  the  Saxons, 
who  landed  at  a  cove  called  Porthsasnac ;  but  the  etymology  seems  fanciful. 
Leaving  this  part  of  the  subject ; — upon  the  eighth  of  May  the  inhabitants  of 
Helston  are  accustomed  to  usher  in  the  auspicious  morning  with  music;  all 
work  among  the  labouring  classes  is  stopped  perforce,  as  those  who  are  found 
working  undergo  a  mock  trial  and  punishment.  The  party  that  begins  the 
Saturnalia  goes  first  to  the  grammar-school,  to  secure  a  holiday  for  the  urchins 
there,  and  then  collects  contributions  from  house  to  house,  and  augmenting, 
proceeds  into  the  country  to  collect  flowers  and  green  boughs,  when  they  are 
said  to  fade,  or  go,  into  the  country.  This  word  in  Cornwall  is  pronounced 
fadgy  by  the  vulgar  in  general,  and  is  applied  colloquially,  as,  "  How  d'ye 
fadgy  ?"  meaning  "  How  d'ye  go  on  ?"  or  "  How  d'ye  fare  ?"  On  the  return 
of  the  party,  preceded  by  music,  dancing  commences  in  the  streets,  and  all 
classes  of  the  inhabitants  till  lately  joined  in,  and  continued  to  dance  through 
the  town,  and  in  and  out  of  the  houses,  carrying  flowers  and  green  boughs ;  and 
many  friends  coining  from  the  neighbouring  towns  to  join,  all  being  innocent 
gaiety.  Nor  was  such  a  time  without  its  social  use  in  bringing  the  poorer 
class  in  contact  with  the  wealthier,  and  keeping  up  a  kindly  feeling,  which 
once  in  a  year  could  hardly  be  productive  of  great  self-sacrifice  to  those  who 
carried  their  chins  the  most  loftily.  Mr.  Gilbert  complained  that  the  practice 
was  diminishing  every  year ;  plainly  showing  from  what  cause,  by  stating  that 
all  was  fast  tending  towards  "the  single  entertainment  of  a  ball."  It  appears 
that  if  the  ladies  had  heretofore  succeeded  in  their  will,  the  very  memory  of 
the  festival  would  have  been  lost.  It  is  thus  that,  before  the  mixture  of 
vulgar  pride  and  ignorant  exclusiveness  so  prevalent  in  these  times  in  the 
middle  ranks  of  society,  the  separation  of  the  different  classes  is  with  much 
impolicy  rendered  wider.  The  classes  never  momentarily  linked,  and  kindliness 
changing  to  indifference,  dislike  and  antipathy  towards  each  other  are  shown 
upon  the  most  trivial  occasions ;  thus  old  things  that  are  harmless,  and  even 
beneficial  in  their  existence,  are  disappearing  with  Avhat  of  old  things  may  be 
very  wisely  resigned.     Mr.  Gilbert  says,  that  fade  is  used  to  express  both  the 


150 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


dance  and  the  air  sung  in  celebrating  the  day.  This  air,  he  says,  is  no  doubt 
the  remnant  of  ancient  British  music ;  and  something  like  it  has  been  traced 
in  Wales  and  Ireland.    As  the  music  is  esteemed  a  curiosity,  we  give  it  here.* 


Pi 


in# 


m#£& 


3=m* 


yfrf&k 


Can  Spirito 


^^ 


m       I   I  P      I    I    P    P     l»   I    P        fr»         l  P    l  i    =m 


WE 


I 


About  two  miles  south-westward  from  Helston,  is  a  lake  called  the  Loe 
Pool,  formed  by  a  sandbar  which  the  sea  has  formed  across  a  channel,  con- 
sisting of  several  streams  and  a  rivulet  called  the  Loe.  This  bar,  running 
parallel  with  a  shore  which  fronts  the  prevailing  cpiarter  whence  the  wind 
blows,  acts  as  a  complete  dam  to  the  efflux  of  the  water,  which  rises  so  high 
at  times,  in  consequence,  as  to  cover  a  space  of  seven  miles  in  circumference, 
and  to  stay  the  working  of  some  mills.  On  these  occasions  it  is  the  custom 
for  the  mayor  of  Helston  to  present  two  leather  purses,  containing  each 
three  halfpence,  to  the  lord  of  the  manor,  for  leave  to  cut  the  bar.     A  very 

*  What  is  called  the  Furry  Song  consists  of  unconnected  stanzas,  ridiculous  enough.     They,  no 
doubt,  replaced  some  that  were  more  ancient.     Two  or  three  of  them  run  as  follow  : — 

"  Robin  Hood  and  little  John, 
They  both  are  gone  to  fair,  0, 
And  we  will  to  the  merry  green  wood, 

To  see  what  they  do  there,  0  ; 
And  for  to  chase,  O, 
To  chase  the  buck  and  doe, 
With  halantow, 
Jolly  rumble,  O. 
And  we  were  up  as  soon  as  any  day,  O, 

And  for  to  fetch  the  summer  home, 
The  summer  and  the  May,  0 ; 
For  summer  is  acome,  O, 
And  winter  is  agone,  O  ! 

"  Whereas  those  Spaniards, 

That  make  so  great  a  boast,  0," 
They  shall  eat  the  grey  goose  feather, 

And  we  will  eat  the  roast,  O  ; 
In  every  land,  O, 
The  land  that  ere  we  go, 

With  halantow,  &c.  &c.  "  As  for 


a  The  "grey  goose  feather"  plainly  refers  to  the  arrow  ;  which  would  fix  the  date  of  this 
the  song  before  gunpowder  was  much  used. 


part  of 


CORNWALL.  151 

small  aperture,  just  sufficient  to  allow  a  stream  from  the  interior  to  act  upon 
the  sand,  is  sufficient  to  give  the  fresh  water  the  power  to  sweep  it  away,  with  a 
tremendous  agitation  of  the  sea  outside ;  after  which  the  bar  is  speedily  formed 
again.  The  scenery  round  this  lake  is  picturesque  and  beautiful ;  and  the 
shores  are  well  wooded,  with  rocks  here  and  there  appearing.  The  ocean 
stretches  far  away  beyond  the  bar,  uniting  with  the  aerial  tint  of  the  sky ; 
"  colours  dipt  in  heaven "  mingle  over  the  intervening  space,  as  the  sunbeams 
play  and  dance  along  the  serene  deep,  or  clouds,  flitting  between,  cast  gauzy 
shades,  like  spectre  islands,  upon  the  blue  plain  of  waters.  Thus  we  saw  both 
lake  and  sea, — a  more  perfect  combination  of  landscape  scenery  is  hardly  to 
be  found.  The  property  belonged  for  ages  to  a  family  named  Penrose,  the 
name  of  the  estate,  which  becoming  extinct,  it  was  sold  to  Mr.  Hugh  Rogers, 
whose  son  is  the  present  owner.  It  was  upon  the  bar  of  the  Loe  Pool  that 
the  Anson  frigate  was  lost,  in  1807,  with  Captain  Lydiard  and  a  great  many 
of  the  crew. 

Wendron,  or  Gwendron,  is  a  large  parish,  noted  for  producing,  and  having 
produced  through  many  bygone  ages,  a  good  deal  of  tin ;  the  soil  is  granitic. 
The  parson  of  this  parish  was  one  of  the  last  whom  the  common  people 
believed,  a  century  ago,  to  possess  cabalistic  power;  his  name  was  Jago. 
Whenever  parson  Jago  wanted  his  horse  held,  he  struck  the  ground  with  his 
whip,  and  a  demon  immediately  rose  at  his  command  to  perform  the  service ! 
Beyond  Wendron,  north-westwards,  is  Crowan  parish,  the  church  of  which 
contains  many  memorials  of  the  ancient  family  of  St.  Aubyn,  originally  from 
Mount  St.  Aubyn,  in  Normandy.  One  of  this  family  was  the  member  for 
Cornwall  who  so  steadfastly  opposed  Sir  Robert  Walpole,  and  of  whom  Sir 

"  As  for  St.  George,  O, 

St.  George  he  was  a  knight,  O, 
Of  all  the  kings  in  Christendom,* 

King  Georgy  is  the  right,  0  ; 
In  every  land,  0, 
The  land  that  ere  we  go. 
With  halantow,  &c.  &c. 

"  God  hless  Aunt  Mary,f  Moses, 

With  all  her  power  and  might,  O  ; 
And  send  us  peace  in  merry  England, 

Both  day  and  night,  0 ; 
And  send  us  peace  in  merry  England, 
Both  now  and  evermore,  O. 
With  halantow,  &c.  &c." 

*  These  lines  are  clearly  a  modern  introduction. 

t  This  alludes,  no  doubt,  to  the  Virgin  Mary — "  aunt "  is  true  Cornish  so  applied  ;  and  the  Virgin 
Mary  was  appealed  to  perhaps  from  the  new  faith  not  having  completely  put  down  the  old  ;  though 
what  Moses  had  to  do  in  the  business  it  is  difficult  to  conjecture.  Paul's  church,  in  Mounts  Bay, 
was  burned  by  the  Spaniards  in  1595,  which  would  seem  to  fix  the  part  of  the  fragment  alluding  to 
the  Spaniards,  as  originating  about  the  end  of  the  reign  of  Elizabeth. 


152  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

Robert  is  reported  to  have  said,  that  he  knew  the  price  of  every  member  in 
the  house  except  the  little  Cornish  baronet.  There  is  a  charity  school  here, 
endowed  by  the  St.  Aubyn  family ;  but  Clowance,  their  ancient  seat,  was 
unfortunately  burned  by  accident.  Sithney,  Breage,  Germoe,  and  Piranuthno, 
are  four  parishes  that  border  upon  the  eastern  side  of  Mount's  Bay, 
between  Helston  and  Marazion.  Sithney  church  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
from  that  of  Breage ;  and  Penrose,  already  mentioned,  is  in  that  parish, 
together  with  Portleven,  where  an  attempt  has  been  unsuccessfully  made  to 
form  a  harbour  for  the  shelter  of  vessels,  much  wanted  upon  this  shore.  There 
was  once  a  hospital  of  St.  John  in  Sithney,  and  a  logan  stone,  called  Men 
Amber,  now  off  its  balance.  In  Breage  parish  is  Godolphin,  the  seat  of  the 
family  of  that  name ;  the  most  celebrated  member  of  which  was  Queen  Anne's 
minister,  related  by  marriage  to  the  great  Duke  of  Marlborough.  The  family 
property  here  was  not  large ;  and  the  honour  becoming  extinct  in  1785,  the 
estate  descended  to  the  Duke  of  Leeds.  Hals  says,  the  word  "  God-al-gan," 
in  Cornish,  signifies  "  God's  downs ;"  Carew,  that  Godolphin  means  "  a  white 
eagle."  The  house,  now  tenanted  by  a  farmer,  has  a  portico  of  white  granite, 
from  Tregoning  hill,  not  far  distant;  north-west  of  which  is  a  second 
hill,  called  Godolphin,  consisting  also  of  granite,  and  rich  in  metallic  ores. 
In  Breage  is  the  celebrated  copper  and  tin  mine  of  Huel  Vor ;  and  in  this 
parish  too  is  Pengerswick  tower,  near  Sidney  Cove,  standing  in  a  bottom  ;  the 
remains  consisting  of  some  fragments  of  walls  and  two  square  towers,  faced 
with  hewn  stone.  The  larger  tower  consists  of  three  stories ;  winding  steps  in 
the  smallest  of  the  two  conduct  to  the  summit  of  the  whole.  The  lower  story  is 
crenelled,  and  the  door  machicolated ;  but  many  of  the  rooms  have  fallen  in,  and 
what  remain  are  used  as  granaries  and  hay-lofts  by  the  farmers  who  live  near. 
There  are  pieces  of  poetry  on  the  panels  of  the  lower  rooms,  which  are  of  oak, 
carved  and  painted  very  curiously  ;  but  the  designs  to  which  the  lines  refer 
are  nearly  obliterated.  The  following,  under  the  title  of  "  Perseverance,"  is 
very  pleasing: — 

"  What  thing  is  harder  than  the  rock? 

What  softer  is  than  water  cleere  ? 
Yet  wyll  the  same,  with  often  droppe, 

The  hard  rock  perce,  as  doth  a  spere  : 
Even  so,  nothing  so  hard  to  attayne, 
But  may  be  hadd  with  labour  and  payne."* 


*  The  following  is  the  entire  poem  on  these  panels : — 

"  Even  as  the  herdsman  safely  maye, 


And  gentilye  lye  downe  to  sleype, 
That  bathe  his  watchfull  doggis  alwaye 

His  floke  in  safetie  for  to  keype, 
So  may  that  prince  be  qweyet  then, 
Under  whom  rulythe  faythful  men.  "  The 


CORNWALL.  1.53 

The  painted  design  was  water  dropping  from  a  rock.  It  is  said  that  at  the 
latter  end  of  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII.  a  Mr.  Milliton,  having  killed  a  man, 
privately  purchased  the  manor  here  in  his  son's  name,  and  passed  his  life  in  a 
secret  chamber  of  the  tower,  known  only  to  a  trusty  friend  or  two.  The  son 
here  mentioned,  is  known  to  have  been  governor  of  St.  Michael's  Mount  in 
the  reign  of  Edward  VI.  The  road  leading  to  the  tower  is  paved  for  a  con- 
siderable distance.  Germoe,  the  westernmost  of  the  four  parishes,  contains 
nothing  very  remarkable,  except  the  saint's  chair  of  stone  in  the  parish  church- 
yard, which  the  people  have  named  King  Germoe's  throne,  most  probably  that 
of  some  obscure  saint,  to  exalt  whom  perhaps  the  Cornish  distich  was  written, 

"  Gerinow  Mathern, 
Breaga  Lavethas." 

"  Germow  a  king,  Breage  a  midwife."  Leland  says,  St.  Germoe's  tomb  was  there 
in  his  time,  and  his  well  a  little  outside  the  churchyard.  In  this  parish  the  great 
combat  took  place  between  two  saints,  whether  both  of  the  old  Irish  importation 
stock  or  not  is  unknown.  These  were  St.  Just,  whose  parish  is  near  the  Land's 

"  The  Shipmen  toste  withe  hoystrous  wynde, 

To  anker  holde  do  flee  at  laste, 
While  the  dolphin,  to  them  most  kynde, 

Doth  claspe  about  to  holde  hyt  faste  ; 
Such  anker-holde  a  prince  shoulde  bee 
To  his  subjects  in  myserie. 

"  When  marriage  was  maid  for  vertew  and  love, 
There  was  no  divorce,  Godd'is  knot  to  remove ; 
But  now  is  much  people  yn  such  luste, 
That  they  bi-eak  Godd'is  wyll  moste  juste : 
Wherefore  unto  ol  suche  let  thys  be  sufficient, 
To  keipe  Godd'is  lawe,  for  feare  of  his  punishment, 
In  the  burning  lake,  wher  is  awst  ofull  torment. 

"  The  laimee,  wyche  lakith  feit  to  goo, 

Ys  borne  uppon  the  blind 'is  back; 
So  mutually  between  theme  twoo, 

The  one  supplieth  the  other's  lacke. — 
The  blind  to  laime  doth  lend  his  might, 
The  laime  to  blind  doth  yelde  his  sight. 

"  What  thing  is  harder  than  the  rock  ? 

What  softer  is  than  water  cleere  ? 
Yet  wyll  the  same,  with  often  droppe, 

The  harde  rock  perce,  as  doth  a  spere. 
Even  so,  nothing  so  hard  to  attayne, 
But  may  be  hadd  with  labour  and  paiue. 

"  Beholde  this  asse,  wiche  laden  ys 

With  riches,  plentye,  and  with  meat, 
And  yet  thereof  no  pleasure  hathe, 

But  thystells,  hard  and  rough,  doth  eat. 
In  like  case  ys  the  rich  niggarde, 
Wich  hath  inoughe,  and  lyveth  full  hard." 
X 


154  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

End,  and  St.  Keverne,  whose  church-town  we  have  already  noticed  near  the 
Lizard.  St.  Just  went  to  pay  the  southern  saint  a  visit,  and  after  a  hospitable  re- 
ception took  his  leave;  but  no  sooner  was  St.  Just  gone, — we  must  not  confound 
the  name  with  the  virtue,  as  we  do  justice  with  law  in  other  cases, — no  sooner 
was  the  visiter  gone,  than  St.  Keverne  missed  some  plate,  a  commodity  which 
it  is  hard  to  credit  that  any  Irish  saint  brought  honestly  into  Cornwall  with 
him  from  home  in  those  rude  days ;  so  he  made  up  his  mind  at  once  that  his 
pious  brother  had  feloniously  abstracted  the  valuables,  and  picking  up  three 
stones,  of  a  quarter  of  a  ton  weight  each,  from  Crowzas  Down,  he  put  them 
into  his  pocket, — the  stones  contracting,  or  the  pocket  expanding  to  receive 
them ;  which,  the  saintly  records  do  not  express.  St.  Keverne  overtook  St. 
Just  in  Germoe  parish,  a  little  beyond  Breage,  and,  charging  him  with  the 
robbery,  bade  him  "  stand  and  deliver."  St.  Just  plumply  refused,  and  a 
combat  ensued ;  when  St.  Keverne  made  such  good  use  of  his  pocket  ammu- 
nition, that  St.  Just  was  forced  to  disgorge  his  plunder  and  fly.  As  the  holy 
pockets  of  St.  Keverne  were  empty,  ready  to  deposit  his  rescued  property,  and 
it  was  no  use  carrying  back  his  weapons,  he  threw  them  down,  where  they  are 
this  day  to  be  seen,  on  the  left  side  of  the  road  from  Breage  to  Marazion,  stuck 
in  the  ground,  carrying  the  outlandish  name  of  Tremen- keverne.  They 
are  said  to  have  been  frequently  removed  for  agricultural  or  other  purposes, 
but  as  often  as  this  was  done  they  were  found  in  their  old  places  the  next  day. 
Singular  enough,  they  consist  of  what  the  people  now  call  iron  stone,  none  of 
which  was  ever  discovered  in  Breage,  Germoe,  or  their  vicinity ;  but  there 
is  a  plenty  upon  Crowzas  Down,  which  St.  Keverne  must  have  crossed  in 
pursuit  of  "  his  brother  rogue,"  an  additional  confirmation  of  the  popular  story, 
if  so  probable  a  story  stand  in  need  of  confirmation.  Piran,  or  Perranuthno,  or 
Little  Piran,  church  stands  in  a  vale  which  terminates  in  the  sea ;  it  is  a  neat 
but  unadorned  building,  and  the  parish  is  small ;  it  once  had  an  oracular  well. 
A  cove  is  pointed  out  here,  into  which  an  ancestor  of  the  Trevelyan  family 
escaped,  borne  on  his  horse,  when  the  fabled  country  of  Lionesse,  between  the 
Land's  End  and  Scilly,  was  overwhelmed  by  the  sea.  The  relation  of  a  clergy- 
man at  St.  Erth,*  a  maiden  lady  of  course,  used  to  go  to  the  Land's  End  in 
consequence  of  a  dream,  having  prepared  decoctions  of  herbs,  and  got  by  rote 
an  incantation  for  raising  this  land  of  Lionesse  out  of  the  ocean  depths,  with 
its  one  hundred  and  forty  churches ;  but  the  ocean,  from  the  Long  Ships  to 
Scilly,  was  as  deaf  to  the  "  voice  of  the  charmer,"  as  it  was  to  King  Canute 
when  he  commanded  the  waves  not  to  wet  his  royal  toes. 

We  enjoyed  a  very  interesting  view  of  Mounts  Bay  from  Cudden  Point, 
in  this  parish,  giving  the  scene  a  point  of  view  that  rather  enhanced 
its  beauties.  St.  Hilary  parish  adjoins  Perran-uthno,  named  from  a  saint 
of  Poictiers,  who  was  seized  with  pitiable  terrors  upon  finding  that  his 
daughter  preferred  matrimony  to  single  blessedness, — so  says  the  legend, — and 

*  As  related  by  Mr.  D.  Gilbert. 


CORNWALL.  1 5  J 

notwithstanding  had  the  gratification  of  seeing  her  expire  at  his  feet  in 
the  single  state.  Another  oddity  of  this  saint  was,  that  he  condemned  errors 
on  abstruse  points  of  doctrine  more  than  heinous  moral  offences.  The  church 
is  in  a  high,  agreeable,  and  secluded  spot,  surrounded  with  trees,  but  decorated 
with  a  clumsy  spire,  standing  three  miles  from  Marazion,  or  Market  Jew, 
known  in  Doomsday  book  as  Tremarastol ;  a  town  probably  older  than  any 
other  in  the  county,  being  situated  near  the  great  mart  for  tin,  the  ancient 
Ictis,  at  St.  Michael's  Mount.*     Carew  calls  it  Mairaiew,  signifying  a  Thurs- 

*  Before  the  capital  of  the  British  empire  was  founded,  or  the  Romans  had  invaded  its  shores, 
Cornwall  was  known  to  the  Phoenicians,  Carthaginians,  Greeks,  and  later,  to  the  people  of  Mar- 
sillia,  now  Marseilles,  who  carried  on  a  traffic  in  tin.  Of  these  nations,  the  Marsellois  alone 
communicated  with  Cornwall  overland,  most  probably  through  Brittany,  taking  thirty  days  for  their 
journey  to  the  shore  opposite  Cornwall.  This  intercourse  rests  upon  no  idle  antiquarian  conjec- 
ture, but  upon  indisputable  testimony,  corroborated  by  many  important  collateral  circumstances ;  and 
trade  has  in  all  ages  been  the  most  important  agent  in  geographical  discovery.  Herodotus  mentions 
the  Scilly  Isles  440  years  before  Christ;  but  says  that  he  knew  nothing  of  them.  The  first  land  dis- 
covered by  the  Phoenicians,  and  therefore  used  as  a  general  term  for  the  extreme  west  of  Cornwall, 
was  the  Cassiterides,  or  JEstryminian  Isles.  St.  Michael's  Mount  is  clearly  understood  in  the  descrip- 
tion still  extant,  as  the  place  where  tin  was  shipped,  being  brought  thither  in  waggons  at  ebb-tide,  at 
which  time  it  was,  as  it  is  at  present,  alone  accessible  from  the  opposite  shore  of  Marazion.  In  further 
proof  of  this,  little  tin  is  raised  in  Scilly.  The  commerce  no  doubt  began  there,  though  the  supply 
was  small;  traders,  whose  moving  principle  is  self-interest,  finding  a  better  market  near,  would 
be  wiser  than  to  make  so  dangerous  a  spot  to  navigators  a  deposit  for  a  commodity  which  might 
be  had  in  plenty,  without  the  additional  carriage,  near  the  mainland,  saving  the  cost  of  thirty  miles  of 
perilous  navigation.  About  two  hundred  years  before  Christ,  the  Greeks  had  become  acquainted  with 
Cornwall,  as  the  intention  of  writing  upon  the  Cassiterides,  and  the  mode  of  preparing  tin,  is  expressed 
by  Polybius.  "  No  Greek  coins  have  been  found  in  Cornwall,"  says  Borlase,  although  some  are  decidedly 
Greek,  as  far  as  can  be  judged  by  comparison  with  the  engravings  of  those  which  collectors  state  to 
be  such,  given  by  Borlase  himself,  who  says  of  these,  that  they  must  have  been  "  struck  by  a  people 
well  acquainted  with  the  Greeks  and  Romans."  They  are  evidently  Greek,  most  probably  colonial. 
The  coins  referred  to  are  in  "  Borlase's  Nat.  Hist."  Plate  XIX.  figs.  7,  48.  Many  more  would,  no 
doubt,  have  been  found  had  the  Greeks  possessed  a  settlement  in  the  county,  which  was  not 
the  case.  Although  this  note  is  long  enough,  it  will  not  be  amiss  to  add  from  the  "  Historical 
Researches"  of  Professor  A.  H.  L.  Heeren,  what  he  adduces  in  evidence  from  Avicenus  upon  this 
matter.  The  remarks  of  Professor  Heeren  having  caught  the  attention  of  the  present  writer  in  1832, 
who  saw  that  this  profound  scholar  and  historian  was  not,  from  the  nature  of  his  observations,  acquainted 
with  the  locality  to  which  Avicenus,  quoting  Hamilcar,  refers,  he  ventured  a  few  critical  remarks 
upon  the  subject  in  a  periodical  work,  of  which  he  is  informed  the  learned  German  professor  has 
acknowledged  the  reasonableness.  It  appears  that  the  Carthaginians  were  the  carriers  for  the 
Phoenicians,  but  kept  their  route  a  profound  secret.  The  quotation  from  Hamilcar's  voyage  states,  that 
the  iEstryminian  Islands,  or  Cassiterides,  abounded  in  tin  ;  that  the  inhabitants  glided  over  the  sea 
in  canoes  of  skins  (the  coracles  of  Wales,  used  in  one  or  two  places  of  the  principality  still,  being 
wicker  frames  covered  with  skins).  The  voyage  occupied  Hamilcar  himself  four  months,  a  time  very 
likely  to  be  consumed  in  coasting  along  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean  and  Atlantic,  on  a  voyage 
first  performed  by  the  Tartessians,  or  Phoenician  colonies  in  Spain,  principally  from  Gades,  the 
modern  Cadiz.  Accoi-ding  to  Hamilcar— for  the  account  of  the  voyage  was  the  result  of  his  own 
experience — his  vessel  was  impeded  by  quantities  of  sea-weed,  a  proof  how  close  he  was  obliged  to 
keep  to  the  shore.  During  the  infancy  of  navigation,  even  in  a  stormy  sea  like  the  Atlantic,  the  voyage 
was  rendered  more  hazardous  from  the  very  necessity  of  thus  hugging  the  land.  It  is  probable,  there- 
fore, that  the  Cassiterides,  or  Scilly  Isles,  being  the  first  discovery,  gave  the  name  to  all  that  was 
known  of  Cornwall  by  the  Phoenicians  and  their  progeny  of  Carthage.  Tin  is  mentioned  in  the  Bible 
among  the  riches  of  commercial  Tyre,  and  was  brought  from  the  westward. 


156  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

day's  market,  and  Norden,  Marca-jewe,  with  the  same  meaning.*     It  sent 
members  to  parliament  before  the  dissolution  of  the  priory  at  the  Mount ;  and 
the  French  landed  and  plundered  it  in  1514.     The  names  of  Market  Jew 
and  Marazion,  we  think,  are  derived  from  a  different  origin,  and  show  how  rife 
the  intercourse  and  habits  of  the  Jews  were  in  Cornwall ;  the  tin  smelting 
houses  are  called  Jews'  houses  to  this  day.    One  story  regarding  the  etymology 
of  this  place  is  that  some  Jews  being  shipwrecked  there,  they  called  the  place 
Marazion,  from  "  mara,  bitter,"  a  bitter  or  melancholy  Zion  to  them ;  but 
Market  Jew  seems  to  be  the  older  name.     The  town  is  said  to  have  flourished 
most  during  the  pilgrimages  to  Mount  St.  Michael;   at  present  it  is  a  small 
place,  very  agreeably  situated,  directly  opposite  to  and  about  450  yards  from 
St.  Michael's  Mount.     The  road  winding  round  the  bay  to  Penzance  and  the 
Land's  End  passes  through  it ;  and  at  its  western  termination  is  a  large  house 
built  by  a  Mr.  Blewett.     The  position  of  this  town  is  more  pleasing  than  that 
of  Penzance,  from  its  connexion  with  its  own  Mount,  and  the  view  it  com- 
mands ;  but  above  all,  it  possesses  a  site  preferable  for  consumptive  persons 
to  that  of  Penzance,  the  situation  of  which  last,  improved  as  it  is  by  art,  is 
in  other  respects  so  much  more  attractive ;  but  then  it  is  exposed  to  the  full 
sweep  of  the  easterly  winds,  those  scourges  of  England  and  parents  of  disease, 
from  which  Marazion  is  completely  sheltered.     There  is  a  chapel  of  ease  in 
Marazion,   dependent   upon   St.  Hilary  ;    of  which  parish  the  Rev.  Malachy 
Hichens  was  vicar,  the  nephew  of  Mr.  Martyn,  who  published  the  large  map 
of  Cornwall.     Mr.  Hichens  was  the  assistant  of  Dr.  Maskelyne  in  1761,  and 
had  the  whole  care  of  the  Greenwich  observatory  while  the  doctor  proceeded 
to  St.  Helena,  to  observe  the  transit  of  Venus.       On  Dr.  Maskelyne's  pub- 
lishing the  Nautical  Almanack,  and  for  the  first  number,  Mr.  Hichens  held  the 
post  of  computer,  and  afterwards  that  of  comparer,  which  last  office  he  kept 
up  to  1809,  the  year  of  his  death.     He  was  born  in  1740,  and  died  at  the  age 
of  sixty-nine.f     His  fourth  son  contemplated  a  history  of  Cornwall,  and  left 
some  collections  for  it ;  he  was  also  an  able  poet.     In  the  church  are  memorials 
of  the   Godolphins,   Pennecks,   and  others.      There  are  numerous  mines  in 
St.  Hilary  parish,  as  well  as  in  those  which  border  upon  it ;  and  there  are 
traces  of  very  old  workings  in  several  places.     Leland  says  in  the  time  of 
Henry  VIII.  that  there  were  no  greater  tin  works  in  Cornwall  than  were  on 
Sir  William  Godalcan's  ground,  near  Heyle,  which  seems  to  confirm  Mount 
St.  Michael  as  the  ancient  Ictis,  from  the  cpiantity  of  tin-land  within  a  few 
miles  of  it. 

*  Leland  says  of  the  Mount,  that  it  was  once  given  to  a  college  at  Cambridge,  "  syns  given  to  Sion." 
He  calls  Marazion,  "  Markesin,  a  great  long  town,  burned  3  or  4  anno  Henry  VIII.,  by  the  French." 
This  town  now  is  neither  long  nor  great. 

■\  Mr.  Davies  Gilbert,  in  his  work  upon  Cornwall,  took  the  superficial  measurements  of  the  Cornish 
parishes  from  a  MS.  given  to  him  by  Mr.  Hichens,  as  the  boundaries  laid  down  in  the  map  of  his 
uncle,  Mr.  Martyn.  We  have  found  them  nearly  all  erroneous  compared  with  those  given,  we  pre- 
sume, from  the  ordnance  survey  ;  and  we  have  taken  them  from  the  government  returns  in  preference. 


CORNWALL.  157 

In  Gwinear,  a  neighbouring  parish  to  St.  Hilary,  there  is  a  village  called 
Drannock,  where  there  lived  a  young  man,  whose  fate  was  so  singular  that  we 
cannot  avoid  relating  it.  He  fell  in  love  with  a  girl  of  the  same  village,  whose 
name  was  Elizabeth,  and  they  were  considered  to  be  engaged ;  both  were  of  humble 
parentage ;  and  she  was  a  lovely  creature,  in  all  the  bloom  of  youth  and  hope. 
She  appeared  of  an  irritable  disposition,  but  it  is  possible  that  this  was  nothing 
more  than  the  warmth  of  strong  attachment,  evincing  itself  in  the  desire  to 
possess  in  totality  the  affections  of  him  whom  she  loved ;  since  in  this  respect 
the  affection  of  woman  can  tolerate  no  divided  empire ;  the  strongest  is  always 
the  most  jealous  love.  After  some  difference,  the  cause  of  which  was 
unknown, — but  it  is  certain  there  was  a  little  disagreement,  perhaps  a  "  lover's 
quarrel," — Thomas  pretended  to  pay  some  attention  to  another  female,  at  least 
he  went  with  her  to  a  public  place  of  worship.  Elizabeth,  hearing  of  the  cir- 
cumstance, and  being  of  a  temperament  peculiarly  constituted  to  feel  acutely, 
took  a  prayer-book,  and  folding  down  the  leaf  to  the  109th  psalm,  went  out 
into  a  field  and  hung  herself.  The  very  same  evening,  on  returning  from 
the  chapel,  her  lover  inquired  for  her;  and  being  told  that  she  had  not  been 
seen  for  two  or  three  hours,  exclaimed,  "  Good  heaven,  she  has  destroyed 
herself!"  Dreading  such  an  event  from  her  disposition,  or  making  the  excla- 
mation from  some  singular  impulse,  it  was  found  a  presentiment  but  too 
true — she  had  hung  herself;  and  the  prayer-book  was  found,  with  the  fearful 
execrations  contained  in  the  text  marked  out.  The  poor  man  cried  in  agony, 
"  I  am  ruined  for  ever  and  ever !"  He  fled  from  the  village,  where  he  had 
spent  so  many  happy  hours,  as  if  it  had  been  a  nest  of  scorpions ;  he  changed 
from  place  to  place  in  search  of  peace,  but  there  was  no  peace  for  him — "  I  am 
ruined  for  ever  and  ever  !" 

Time,  that  cures  most  griefs,  only  changed  his  into  the  chronic  state  from 
habitual  suffering ;  and  thus,  if  custom  can  make  an  easiness  of  torture,  it  may 
be  said  to  alleviate  its  acuteness  only  to  make  its  hold  more  sure.  He  avoided 
church  when  there  was  a  chance  of  the  fatal  psalm  being  read ;  and  shunned 
passing  by  a  reading-school,  for  fear  he  should  hear  the  dreadful  words.  He 
was  injured  in  pursuing  his  labour  as  a  miner,  and  this  was,  he  thought, 
the  effect  of  the  malediction  ;  he  was  under  a  curse — the  curse  of  her  whom 
he  had  loved  and  murdered  !  Every  cross  thing  that  befel  him  was  the  result 
of  the  dreadful  spell  hanging  over  his  head.  He  never  slept  soundly,  for 
Elizabeth  appeared  to  him  in  his  broken  slumbers,  with  the  agony  of  strangu- 
lation upon  her  features, — the  prayer-book  in  her  hand,  open  at  the  dreadful 
psalm ;  and  he  was  often  heard  to  cry  out  in  agony  at  such  times,  "  O  Betsy, 
my  dear  Betsy,  shut  the  book, — shut  the  book  !" 

At  length  he  was  persuaded  to  marry  ;  and,  strange  to  say,  he  assented  to 
it,  because  every  momentary  change  brought  a  miserable  but  grateful  inter- 
mission of  remembrance ;  but  she  to  whom  the  offer  was  first  made  refused  him  ; 
asking  whether  he  desired  to  bring  the  curses  of  the  dead  girl  upon  her  head. 


1<58  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

In  the  end  he  engaged  to  marry  one  who  had  no  superstition,  and  was  pos- 
sessed of  a  good  deal  of  fortitude.  He  went  to  the  church  of  St.  Hilary  for 
the  performance  of  the  rite,  and  while  upon  his  way  was  overtaken  with  one 
of  the  sudden  and  violent  storms  not  uncommon  in  Cornwall.  He  saw 
his  dead  mistress  in  the  storm;  he  heard  her  curses  in  the  roaring  of  the 
wind ;  he  marked  her  garments  in  the  sheeted  lightning ;  he  closed  his  eyes, 
and  saw  her  in  the  darkness  of  his  soul;  he  became  convulsed  with  fear, 
or,  after  the  phrase  in  which  the  circumstance  was  described,  Avas  "  doubled 
up  with  terror," — helpless,  and  for  a  time  lost  to  all  around  him.  His  friends 
led  him  on,  wholly  unconscious  of  what  he  was  about  to  do ;  but  before  they 
reached  the  church,  which  was  three  miles  from  where  he  resided,  the  heavens 
had  recovered  their  serenity,  and  the  sun  shone  out  brightly. 

He  was  a  kind  husband,  and  left  a  son  and  daughter,  though  he  scarcely 
survived  two  years  after  his  marriage ;  for  as  the  novelty  of  his  new  state  sub- 
sided, his  old  feelings  returned.  He  knew  no  ease,  and  his  body  began  to  fall 
away  like  ashes  from  consuming  wood,  owing  to  his  mind  preying  upon  it ; 
nor  did  the  tranquillity  of  his  soul  for  one  moment  revive,  although  nothing 
came  of  the  maledictions,  which  he  feared.  Coincidences  remarkable  enough 
still  followed  the  poor  fellow  even  to  the  grave.  While  his  body  lay  in 
St.  Hilary  church  for  interment  during  divine  service,  upon  a  Sunday  after- 
noon, the  109th  psalm  was  read  in  the  ordinary  course,  and  exactly  at  four 
o'clock,  the  hour  when  Elizabeth  destroyed  herself,  so  that  the  congregation 
was  astonished.  The  execrations  of  the  psalmist  were  no  otherwise  fulfilled. 
Thomas's  two  children  preceded  him  to  the  grave ;  and  were  never  fatherless, 
nor  obliged  to  beg  their  bread ;  and  his  wife  married  again,  three  years  after 
his  death,  therefore  the  widow's  curse  did  not  light  upon  her ;  and  his  own 
relations  were  remarkably  numerous,  so  that  his  name  seemed  in  no  way 
likely  to  be  extinguished. 

We  entered  Marazion  after  sunset,  and  by  the  time  a  hasty  repast  had  been 
taken  it  was  as  much  night  as  it  is  at  all  in  the  close  of  the  summer.  We 
flung  up  the  window,  and  saw  before  us,  ascending  in  solitary  majesty  from 
the  waves,  clothed  in  deep  shadow,  the  far-famed  Mount  St.  Michael,  its  apex 
crowned  with  the  tower,  which  Milton  describes  as  the  spot — 

"  Where  the  great  vision  of  the  guarded  mount, 
Looks  t'ward  Namanco's  and  Bayona's  hold." 

The  French  say  the  Archangel  appeared  on  their  Mount  St.  Michael  in 
Normandy,  and  the  Italians  claim  the  honour  for  Mount  Garganus.  Pyrami- 
dical,  and  somewhat  uneven  in  outline,  it  projected  its  imposing  gloomy 
mass  grandly  upwards,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  us ;  not  as  seen  in  the 
engraved  view  at  low  water,  but  as  a  complete  mountain  island,  the  tide  being 
in,  and  the  calm  sea  between  us  and  its  expanded  base.  The  sight  was  unique 
and  truly  sublime.  Lights  were  glancing  from  the  houses  at  the  foot  near  the 
pier,  and  more  remotely  from  across  the  bay,  near  Penzance,  which,  wrapped 


CORNWALL.  159 

in  blackness  of  shadow  by  the  hills  behind  it,  marked  out  the  situation  of  that 
town.  We  gazed  again  and  again  on  the  shady  grandeur  of  this  imposing 
object,  which  looked  much  higher  than  in  reality ;  several  bright  stars  appear- 
ing just  over  the  summit  seemed  to  diadem  the  throne  of  the  Prince  of  Arch- 
angels. The  atmosphere  was  serene, — soft  even  to  luxuriance, —  and  yet  upon 
regarding  those  starry  orbs  amid  the  short-lived  contentedness  of  the  moment, 
while  enjoying  the  grandeur  of  the  rock  once  consecrated  to  superstition, 
we  could  not  help  recalling  the  lines  which  Byron  has  borrowed  from  the 
Spanish  poet* — 

"  0  who  can  look  upon  them  shining, 
And  turn  to  earth  -without  repining ; 
Nor  wish  for  wings  to  flee  away, 
And  mix  with  their  immortal  ray !" 

Here,  then,  was  the  place,  a.d.  495,  according  to  legends,  which  constitute  all 
the  hope  and  religious  faith  of  some,  where  sat  the  Archangel,  who  has  been 
considered  the  guardian  of  seafaring  men.  We  could  not  help  wishing, — 
forgetting  for  a  minute  or  two  that  heaven's  messengers  have  not  been  accus- 
tomed to  pay  such  "angel  visits"  since  the  light  of  knowledge  has  scattered 
the  absurdities  of  superstitious  times, — we  could  not  help  wishing  Ave  could 
witness  the  sight  at  a  moment  so  appropriate,  when  we  were  as  fully  in  the  mind 
to  enjoy  the  poetry  of  the  thing  as  the  blindest  groper  in  the  gloom  of  the  dark 
ages  could  have  enjoyed  his  dream  of  the  angelic  apparition.  We  fancied  the 
glorious  form  of  the  celestial  visitant  couchant  upon  the  external  angle  of  the 
chapel  tower,f  his  archangelic  wings  luminous  with  colours  that  made  around 
them  an  atmosphere  of  their  own  light,  and  thousands  gazing  through  the 
dimness  of  the  night  with  awe  and  wonder  at  the  shining  vision  from  the 
ample  circumference  of  the  beautiful  bay.  It  would  have  been  a  noble  sight, 
and  truly  elevating  to  the  mind.  Well  does  the  mount  of  the  humble  town  of 
Marazion  deserve  to  be  the  theme  of  the  poet,  and  the  object  of  universal 
admiration.     Spenser  says — 

"  St.  Michael's  Mount  who  does  not  know, 
That  wards  the  western  coast." 

Carew  styles  it,  "  Both  land  and  island  twice  a-day."  Drayton,  in  his 
Polyolbion,  makes  considerable  mention  of  it.  William  of  Worcester  J 
records  the  absurdity  of  its  having  been  a  "  hoar  rock"  in  a  wood,  part  of  the 
fabled  land  of  Lionesse,§  which,  though  never  engulfed  except  in  romance,  a 

*  Argensola. 

f  Michael,  before  the  tower  was  built,  used  to  perch  upon  the  highest  crag  ;  afterwards  he  found 
the  tower,  they  say,  more  "  convenient." 

X  Apparicio  Sancti  Michaelis  in  Monte  Tumba  antea  vocato,  "  Le  Ilore  Rock  in  the  wodd." 

§  In  the  history  of  Prince  Arthur  we  6nd  an  account  of  the  Ladye  of  Liones,  and  how  Sir 
Tristram  de  Liones  fought  to  deliver  Mark,  king  of  Cornwall,  from  "  Irish  truage."  The  earlier 
writers  upon  the  topography  of  England  were  credulous  persons,  whose  inventive  faculties  not  being 
over  keen,  were  content  to  borrow  from  the  writers  of  romance  what  they  found  suitable  to  support 


160  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

lady  tried  to  charm  up  again  !  The  Italian  romance  writers  speak  of  it ;  and 
some  antiquaries  declare  it  to  be  the  Mount  Ocrinum  of  Ptolemy.  St.  Keyna, 
we  have  already  seen,  paid  a  visit  to  the  mount ;  and  her  nephew,  St.  Cadoc, 
did  the  same  about  490.  After  five  hundx-ed  years  of  renown,  Edward  the 
Confessor  founded  a  priory  of  Benedictine  monks  here ;  and  afterwards  Robert, 
Earl  of  Moreton,  made  it  a  cell  to  the  abbey  of  St.  Michael  in  Normandy. 
The  church  of  St.  Michael  was,  no  doubt,  the  parent  church  of  St.  Hilary, 
as  the  prior  here  presented  to  that  church.  There  was  once  both  a  nunnery 
and  a  monastery,  with  a  chapel  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary,  built  by  the 
Earl  of  Moreton  in  the  reign  of  William  II.,  and  also  a  chapel  to  St.  Michael ; 
but  the  last  has  long  disappeared.  The  nunnery  was  detached  from  the 
monk's  cell,  and  had  much  carved  work,  both  of  wood  and  stone,  in  its  con- 
struction. St.  Michael's  Mount  descended,  about  the  time  of  Richard  I.,  to 
one  Pomeroy,  who  fortified  it.  Before  the  modern  alterations,  the  present 
chapel  consisted  of  a  nave,  divided  into  an  aisle  and  choir  by  the  cancel 
of  the  rood  loft,  which  last  was  carved  with  a  history  of  the  Passion.  There 
were  three  stalls  in  the  choir,  and  two  tall  windows  at  the  altar,  with  three 
on  each  side  of  the  nave,  and  a  handsome  rose  window  at  the  western  end. 
The  aisle  was  forty-eight  feet  long  by  twenty  wide ;  the  choir  twenty-one 
feet  long ;  and  on  the  right  of  the  altar  was  a  small  door,  which  led  down  by  a 
few  steps  into  a  vaulted  room,  nine  feet  square.  All  the  Avails  are  thick,  with- 
out buttresses  ;  and  on  the  top  of  the  tower,  which  has  a  fine  peal  of  six  bells, 
and  is  well  proportioned,  at  the  external  angle,  are  the  remains  of  a  gothic 
lanthorn,  in  which  the  monks  most  probably  kept  a  light  for  the  guidance  of 
shipping.  The  outer  part  being  broken  away  above  the  base,  is  called 
St.  Michael's  chair,*  and  the  vulgar  say  that  this  was  the  place  in  which  the 
supernatural  vision  sat;  but  Carew  says  it  was  on  a  crag  just  without  the 
building,  very  difficult  of  access.  A  ridiculous  notion  prevails,  probably  from 
the  confused  connexion  of  St.  Keyna  with  the  mount,  that  whoever  sits  in 
this  lanthorn  chair  will  have  the  mastery  in  domestic  affairs.  This  is  a  much 
more  trying  experiment  than  drinking  the  water  of  St.  Keyna  or  Keyne's 
Well ;  for  let  the  reader  imagine  the  pinnacle  of  a  lofty  church  tower  to  be 
hollow,  the  tower  standing  upon  the  brink  of  a  precipice,  at  the  base  of  which 
the  sea  thunders  ;  or  let  him  imagine  a  very  large  lanthorn,  in  place  of  a  pin- 
nacle, to  be  placed  in  the  same  spot,  fractured  longitudinally,  and  the  external 
portion  gone,  while  the  inner  portion,  several  feet  high,  remains  entire.  The 
dangerous  feat  is  to  sit  in  the  bottom  of  this  fragment,  the  place,  in  a  lanthorn, 
where  a  light  is  fixed.     The  feet  have  no  rest,  but  hang  over  the  tower  and 

any  fiction  which  they  imagined  to  be  fact.  Science  in  later  times  must  demolish  many  similar 
theories,  as  Sir  Joseph  Banks  proved  there  could  be  no  mermaid  according  to  the  common  notion  of 
the  thing,  by  the  very  structure  of  the  parts  rendering  such  a  creature  as  a  tenant  of  the  sea 
impossible. 

*  Kader-migel  in  Cornish. 


CORNWALL.  161 

abyss  beneatli ;  and  the  back  of  the  Ian  thorn  ascending  behind,  there  is  no 
moving  out  but  by  wriggling  about,  and  getting  the  knees  on  the  seat,  and  so 
rising  up  and  coining  round  upon  the  roof  of  the  tower,  by  striding  in  over  the 
pax-ape t.  We  ventured  to  stand  in  the  famous  chair,  but  did  not  adventure  to 
sit,  on  account  of  the  difficulty  of  rising  and  getting  round  on  the  knees  from 
a  position  in  which  the  feet  dangle  over  such  a  fearful  gulf,  where  the  restless 
ocean,  to  the  most  distant  point  of  the  horizon,  spreads  out  a  vast  plain 
beneath.  It  is  a  foolhardy  act;  and  yet  many,  even  ladies,  adventure, 
stimulated  by  a  little  lurking  ambition  of  rule,  and  no  small  portion  of  cre- 
dulity in  the  virtue  of  the  act. 

Before  the  recent  improvements  were  effected,  the  buildings  approached 
much  more  nearly  to  the  appearance  which  the  old  monastery  must  have 
carried.  On  arriving  at  the  summit  a  low  gate  was  entered,  having  a  port- 
cullis, a  few  steps  within  which  was  the  guard-room  on  the  left  hand ;  beyond 
this  was  a  wooden  gate,  the  chapel  entrance  being  on  the  right,  and  an 
embattled  terrace  on  the  left ;  further  on  was  a  gothic  stone  door-case,  with  a 
window  over,  Avhich  led  into  a  room,  fifty  feet  long  by  eighteen  wide,  that  had 
once  been  divided  by  partitions.  A  passage  here  led  into  the  chapel  of 
St.  Mary,  which  was  that  of  the  nunnery,  and  in  which  passage  a  staircase 
led  to  their  cells ;  but  the  flooring  had  much  of  it  fallen  in.  In  the  east  end  of 
the  chapel,  over  the  altar,  was  a  window  ;  and  there  were  some  carvings  of  arms 
there,  and  near  by  was  a  small  door  in  the  eastern  wall,  with  a  little  court 
below  it,  and  a  terrace  to  look  over  the  wall.  In  another  court  stood  the  refec- 
tory, thirty-three  feet  long,  sixteen  wide,  and  eighteen  high ;  the  roof  of  tim- 
ber was  carved.  East  of  this  was  a  small  room,  with  a  chamber  above,  and  yet 
further  east  a  small  parlour,  with  a  bed-room  over,  where  Charles  II.  slept  on 
his  way  to  Scilly  ;  and  in  a  little  court  below  there  was  another  small  room. 
On  looking  over  the  parapet  in  this  court,  the  perpendicular  precipice  of  the 
mount  on  that  side,  with  the  sea  thundering  under,  struck  strangers  with 
surprise  and  fear.  The  cells  of  the  monks  were  west  of  the  church  and  refec- 
tory. Such  it  is  said  was  the  state  of  the  buildings,  a  good  deal  of  which  were 
ruinous,  until  the  adaptations  to  modern  convenience  took  place,  principally 
in  the  interior.  The  ancient  parts  which  remain  little  altered  are  the 
entrance,  guard-room,  refectory,  and  chapel.  In  repairing  the  last,  an  unin- 
scribed  grave-stone  was  found,  supposed  to  have  been  placed  over  the  body  of 
Sir  John  Arundel,  of  Trerice,  who  was  killed  in  a  skirmish  near  the  mount  in 
the  reign  of  Edward  IV.,  during  the  wars  between  the  houses  of  York  and 
Lancaster ;  and  in  levelling  a  platform  for  the  altar,  under  the  east  window,  a 
door  was  discovered,  stoned  up,  which,  on  being  opened,  led  into  a  vault  under 
the  church,  nine  feet  long  by  six  or  seven  broad,  in  which  was  found  the 
skeleton  of  a  large  man,  but  no  remains  of  a  coffin. 

St.  Michael's  Mount  is  the  property  of  the  St.  Aubyn  family,  who  purchased 
it  about  the  year  1660.     It  was  given  by  Elizabeth  or  James  I.  to  Cecil,  Earl 

Y 


162 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


of  Salisbury;  but  was  seized  by  Charles  I.  when  William  Cecil  subscribed 
the  York  declaration  in  1692,  and  took  the  side  of  the  English  people.  It 
was  then  consigned  to  the  Bassets,  the  staunch  adherents  of  the  Stuarts,  to 
the  last  of  the  race ;  and  thus  granted  to  them,  they  sold  it  to  the  St.  Aubyn 
family,  after  a  very  short  possession.  Here  Lady  Catherine  Gordon,  wife  of 
Perkin  Warbeck,  took  refuge,  and  many  families  secured  themselves  during 
the  rebellion  of  the  Cornish  in  the  reign  of  Edward  VI.  The  improvements 
of  the  interior  by  the  St.  Aubyn  family  for  five  generations  have  made  it 
a  comfortable  residence.  The  prospect  from  some  of  the  windows,  but  above 
all  from  the  top  of  the  chapel  tower,  is  unsurpassed  in  grandeur  and  beauty. 
On  the  land  side,  the  shores  of  the  flat  bay  rise  amphitheatrically  on  all  sides 
to  a  considerable  altitude,  in  every  direction  presenting  objects  of  interest, — 
towns,  churches,  villages,  woods,  mines,  and  an  undulating  outline.  Towards 
the  ocean  the  prospect  is  of  the  grandest  character ;  one  shore  stretches  away 
headland  after  headland,  to  where  the  Lizard  shoots  far  out  into  the  wave, — 
a  long  line  of  apparently  table  land.  St.  Clement's  Islands,  and  the  coast 
towards  the  Land's  End,  form  a  cape  much  shorter,  and  apparently  nearer 
at  hand,  than  on  the  eastern  side,  completing  the  horn  of  the  crescent  west- 
wards. Between  these  two  points  the  ocean  alone  appears  in  its  most  impos- 
ing attribute  of  uncontrollable  immensity,  as  the  Atlantic,  across  the  Bay  of 
Biscay,  to  the  most  western  land  of  Spain,  lies  on  the  south,  and  dies  into 
distance ;  and  across  the  land,  on  the  north,  no  shore  intervenes  between  the 
line  of  horizon  beheld  there  and  the  land  of  the  New  World,  both  seas  rolling 
visibly  from  the  summit  of  the  mount. 

The  old  refec- 
tory above  men- 
tioned, fitted  up 
at  present  as  a 
simple  apart- 
ment of  a  family 
residence,  but 
scarcely  at  all 
altered  from  its 
ancient  state, 
is  decorated 
with  a  cornice, 
exhibiting  dif- 
ferent hunting 
scenes  and  ani- 
mals followed  in  the  chace,  and  passes  under  the  appellation  of  the  "  Chevy 
Chace  Boom,"  of  which  this  is  a  representation.  The  royal  arms  and  date, 
1644,  mark  the  upper  end  of  the  apartment,  and  at  the  lower  are  the  arms  of 
the  St.  Aubyn  family. 


CORNWALL.  163 

We  crossed  at  low  water  from  Marazion,  passing  a  rock,  shown  in  the  steel 
engraving,  called  the  Chapel  Rock,  upon  which  a  species  of  oratory  formerly 
stood,  where  the  pilgrims  to  the  shrine  of  St.  Michael  offered  up  their  orisons. 
The  road  from  Marazion  runs  nearly  south,  and  is  about  450  yards  long ;  at 
the  termination,  on  the  right  hand  side,  a  convenient  basin  is  formed  for 
shipping.  It  was  erected  on  the  site  of  a  less  convenient  work  of  the  same 
kind  which  had  existed  there  before,  probably  at  the  expense  of  the  monks, 
by  Mr.  Blewett,  a  merchant  of  Marazion,  who  held  a  lease  of  it  from  the 
St.  Aubyn  family ;  and  near  it  are  cellars  for  the  fisheries,  and  upwards  of 
seventy  inhabited  houses.  On  proceeding  a  little  further  the  ascent  becomes 
steep,  and  the  stranger  perceives  that  the  mount  itself  is  a  mass  of  granite 
breaking  through  schistos  rocks,  affording  fine  studies  for  the  geologist ;  and 
still  proceeding  upwards,  a  few  cannon  appear,  covering  that  part  of  the  bay. 
From  hence  it  is  not  far  to  the  entrance  of  the  house  where  the  late  Sir  John 
St.  Aubyn  frequently  resided  for  a  short  time,  and  pursued  the  improvements 
with  his  well-known  good  taste.  There  is  a  well  of  fine  water,  thirty-seven 
feet  below  the  summit  in  the  solid  rock,  and  near  it  is  a  tin  lode.  The  build- 
ings and  their  additions,  Avith  the  rock,  form  a  pyramid,  the  base  of  which 
is  about  a  mile  in  circumference,  and  the  whole,  we  were  told,  is  extra- 
parochial.* 

The  priors  of  St.  Michael's  Mount,  from  1260  to  1410,  when  Henry  V. 
suppressed  the  alien  priories,  were,  de  Carteret,  Perer,  de  Gernon,  de  Cara 
Villa,  Hardy,  de  Volant,  Auncel,  and  Lambert.  The  lands  belonging  to  this 
house,  as  parcel  of  Sion  Abbey,  were  rated  in  the  time  of  Henry  VIII.  at 
110/.  12s.  There  is  extant  a  bill  of  Adrian  in  1155,  confirming  these  pos- 
sessions to  the  abbot  and  monks  here  and  to  those  of  Normandy.  After  the 
Restoration,  it  appears  to  have  been  granted  to  Mr.  Melliton,  it  is  presumed, 
of  Pengerswick,  already  mentioned,  for  a  term  of  years ;  then  to  Harris,  of 
Gulval,  and  afterwards  to  another,  and  then  to  Cecil,  Earl  of  Salisbury,  as 
already  mentioned. 

Stories  of  monkish  origin  state  that  the  mount  was  once  a  rock  situated  in  a 
wood ;  and  some  persons  deem  this  to  be  proved  from  the  discovery  of  trees 
and  various  vegetable  substances,  as  nuts  and  acorns,  under  the  sand  upon  the 
secession  of  the  tide.  The  marshy  nature  of  the  soil  up  to  the  hills  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  bay  renders  it  probable  that  the  sea  once  flowed  up  to 

*  In  1676  a  ball  of  fire  struck  the  granite  wall  of  the  chapel  of  St.  Michael's  Mount,  broke  through 
the  stone  work,  marking  its  way  by  a  stroke  four  inches  broad  and  two  deep,  from  one  end  of  the 
long  side  wall  almost  to  the  other  ;  and  rebounding  struck  the  oak  derns  of  the  dwelling-house  entry, 
and  shattered  them  into  two  or  three  pieces  ;  then  flying  into  the  hall  it  fell  on  the  floor,  and  broke  in 
pieces  by  the  side  of  Mrs.  Catherine  St.  Aubyn,  without  hurting  her,  leaving  a  sulphureous  smoke 
behind.  Its  remains  appeared  to  consist  of  metallic  matter,  like  coal  and  cinders  congealed  by  fire ; 
it  was  observed  to  come  from  seaward  towards  the  mount.  This  description  tallies  rather  with  a 
meteoric  stone  than  electric  fire. 


164  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

them ;  nor  is  it  at  all  improbable  that  all  the  flat  part  of  the  shore  of  Mount's 
Bay  is  the  site  of  one  of  those  undermined  or  submerged  woods  which  are 
found  in  other  parts  of  the  county,  in  some  instances  far  inland,  out  of  reach 
of  the  waves.  The  stream  works  have  disclosed  them,  where  similar  appear- 
ances have  been  met  with,  twenty  or  thirty  feet  under  the  present  level,  as  at 
Carnon  and  at  Par;  the  sea  only  laying  that  bare  here  which  has  been  long 
shown  to  exist  in  other  places.  Not  only  vegetables  in  substance,  but  at  Carnon 
human  skulls  have  been  discovered ;  and  at  Par  an  antique  tobacco  pipe  was 
found  beneath  a  bed  of  alluvial  deposit  more  than  twenty  feet  thick.  That  no 
change  has  taken  place  in  Mount's  Bay  for  a  time  long  beyond  the  connected 
annals  of  England,  is  pretty  clear,  from  the  fact,  that  Roman  coins  have  been 
exhumed  from  the  sand  in  Mount's  Bay,  so  placed  for  concealment ;  the  loca- 
lity then  cannot  have  altered  since  that  was  done.  The  description  of  the 
ancient  Ictis,  too,  can  apjily  only  to  St.  Michael's  Mount,  not  to  the  Scilly 
Isles,  which  the  abundance  of  tin  in  its  vicinity  confirms.  Reasonable  persons 
must  dismiss  this  extraordinary  submersion,  with  the  tale  of  the  land  of  Lio- 
nesse.  It  may  not  be  amiss  with  such  tales,  which  modern  science  abundantly 
refutes,  to  add,  that  the  mount  had  in  king  Arthur's  time  a  giant  for  a  keeper; 
and  that  the  locality  was  the  haunt  of  enchanters,  and  of  a  scene  of  wonders 
only  to  be  found  in  misbegotten  romances. 

From  Marazion  to  Penzance  the  road  curves  along  the  shore  of  the  magni- 
ficent Mount's  Bay  for  the  space  of  three  miles,  having  the  ocean  on  the  left 
hand;  and  it  now  spread  itself  in  a  broad  expanse  of  unsullied  azure,  scarcely 
exhibiting  the  narrowest  border  of  white  in  the  gentle  ripple  of  the  waves 
upon  the  sand.  So  serene  and  tranquil,  so  heart-soothing  and  attractive  was 
the  sight,  that  we  could  scarcely  fancy  its  majestic  surface  had  been  or  could 
be  arrayed  in  the  terrors  of  the  storm;  seeming  in  truth  — 

"  As  though  it  ne'er  had  man  heguil'd, 
And  never  would  beguile  him  more." 

For  some  distance  after  leaving  Marazion,  there  lies  upon  the  land  side  of  the 
road  a  strip  of  marshy  ground;  a  portion  of  which,  nearly  half  a  century  ago, 
we  learned  had  been  drained  by  Dr.  Moyle,  a  medical  gentleman  of  that  town, 
for  which  he  received  the  gold  medal  of  the  Society  of  Arts,  Manufactures, 
and  Commerce.  This  operation  was  effected  by  an  ingenious  contrivance,  since 
that  time  pretty  generally  adopted  under  similar  circumstances, — the  introduc- 
tion of  a  wooden  tube,  closing  with  a  gate  hung  horizontally,  and  sunk  in  a 
deep  cut  nearly  to  the  level  of  the  sea  at  low  water.  When  the  tide  retired, 
the  internal  pressure  of  the  fresh  water  opened  the  gate,  and  the  discharge 
continued  until  the  tide  rising  again  closed  it  by  the  external  pressure  ;  in 
this  mode  maintaining  a  continual  self-action.  These  marshes,  broader  at  the 
end  towards  Marazion,  grow  narrower  and  disappear,  from  the  approximation 


CORNWALL.  165 

of  a  range  of  heights  almost  close  down  to  the  sea,  near  Penzance,  having  in 
one  part,  slightly  elevated,  the  church  of  Gulval  parish,  the  principal  village 
of  which  parish,  called  Chyandower,  is  close  to  Penzance  town.  Here, 
too,  is  a  seat  of  the  Harris  family,  of  Lifton,  in  Devonshire,  called  Kenegie, 
commanding  a  noble  prospect;  with  a  well,  named  Gulfwell,  or  the  "  Hebrew 
Brook,"  (here  we  have  the  Jews  again,)  once  attended,  according  to  Borlase, 
by  an  old  sybil,  whose  death  he  speaks  of,  in  his  time,  as  very  recent.  The 
water  of  this  well  was  deemed  oracular,  and  was  consulted  for  the  purpose  of 
recovering  lost  cattle  or  stolen  goods ;  the  question  being  put  before  the  old 
diviness,  the  well  answered  at  her  potent  invocation.  As,  for  example,  sup- 
pose the  health  of  an  absent  person  was  inquired  about ;  if  he  were  well,  the 
water  was  seen  to  bubble  ;  if  ill,  to  be  discoloured ;  and  if  dead,  to  remain  still. 
Even  now  it  is  spoken  of  as  possessing  some  virtues  that  are  not  very  clearly 
defined. 

Ludgvan  parish,  on  the  north-west  from  Marazion,  and  north-east  from 
Penzance,  borders  on  Gulval  further  inland.  In  this  parish  was  born  the 
noted  Dr.  Oliver,  of  Bath ;  but  it  is  more  celebrated  for  its  connexion  with 
Dr.  Borlase,  so  well  known  as  the  natural  historian  and  antiquary  of  his  native 
county.  Castle  an  Dinas,  an  old  military  work,  consisting  of  two  stone  walls, 
circular,  and  one  within  the  other,  is  in  this  parish.  The  church  stands  on 
high  ground,  and  commands  a  noble  prospect,  and  here  Dr.  Borlase  was  buried, 
where  he  was  the  incumbent  for  fifty-two  years.  He  was  born  in  St.  Just, 
which  living  he  also  held,  and  died  in  1772,  in  his  seventy-seventh  year.  He 
was  an  indefatigable  student  of  the  natural  history  and  antiquities  of  Corn- 
wall ;  and  though  somewhat  fanciful  regarding  Druidism,  stone  deities,  and  the 
supposed  rites  of  ancient  British  worship,  it  must  be  recollected  that  he  was 
utterly  bereft  of  the  light  which  scientific  discoveries,  since  his  day,  have 
thrown  upon  many  of  the  subjects  of  which  he  treated.  He  has  the  merit  of 
collecting,  and  placing  in  a  comprehensible  form,  almost  everything  that 
relates  to  the  two  great  objects  which  he  was  eager  to  record  or  explain.  He 
wasted  little  time  in  hunting  out  the  musty  genealogies  of  families  unknown 
beyond  their  own  narrow  circle ;  he  contributed  little  to  gratify  the  idle,  or 
foster  the  pride  of  the  ignorant ;  he  flew  at  a  nobler  quarry,  and  followed  up 
his  object  with  indefatigable  diligence.  In  his  antiquarian  researches,  and  his 
endeavours  to  elucidate  the  natural  history  of  his  native  county,  he  borrowed 
from  none,  but  he  made  Nature  his  book ;  he  looked  himself  upon  the  things 
which  he  described ;  he  reflected  upon  what  he  saw,  and,  uniting  learning  with 
a  due  regard  to  what  seemed  to  him  the  just  view  of  his  subject,  he  became  a 
careful  recorder  of  the  result.  His  observations,  sometimes  acute,  always 
erudite,  and  often  singularly  ingenious,  fix  the  reader's  attention,  even  when 
he  may  not  find  it  possible  to  concede  justness  to  his  views.  Cornwall  owes 
more  to  Borlase  than  to  all  besides  who  have  written  upon  the  county. 
Curious  as  the  imperfect  Notes  of  Hals  and  Tonkin  may  be  deemed  by  those 


166 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


whom  the  progress  of  time  has  not  instructed  that  personal  history  can  only  be 
generally  important  or  attractive  where  it  is  connected  with  individuals 
beyond  the  obscurity  of  a  provincial  circle,  they  are  not  to  be  counted  with 
one  whose  aim  was  so  much  higher,  and  from  whom  every  writer  since  has 
borrowed  so  largely.  Borlase  will  wear  his  honours  long,  for  they  were 
honestly  earned. 

This  digression  may  be  pardoned,  from  being  made  upon  the  road-side,  in 
view  of  the  church  where  the  dust  of  this  good  man  reposes ;  but  we  must 
continue  our  route.  Passing  some  extensive  tanneries,  we  entered  Penzance, 
the  last  town  of  the  west,  and  proceeding  westwards  along  a  spacious  street, 
ascended  gradually,  until 
we  came  in  sight  of  the 
town-hall  and  market-place, 
substantially  built  of  gra- 
nite, with  a  doric  pedi- 
ment, solid,  and  in  good 
taste,  of  which  the  accom- 
panying engraving  conveys 
a  representation. 

It  is  unfortunate  that 
this  building  was  construct- 
ed upon  the  same  spot  as 
the  old  hall,  since  it  is  a 
serious  obstruction  to  what 
would  otherwise  have  been 
a  fine  wide  thoroughfare  in 
the  heart  of  the  town;  and 
the  wants  of  an  increasing 
population  required  the  space.  The  people  of  Truro  were  wiser,  and  removed 
their  market  from  the  middle  of  a  much  broader  street.  At  the  western 
end  of  the  town -hall,  a  street  descends  towards  the  sea;  and  another,  in 
the  opposite  direction,  ascends  a  hill  leading  towards  Madern,  the  parish 
church,  which  is  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  town ;  thus  the  principal  streets 
assume  somewhat  of  the  appearance  of  a  cross,  one  arm  or  street  leading 
towards  the  pier,  a  solid  and  useful  pile  of  building,  constructed  by  the  cor- 
poration. In  this  street,  on  the  right,  a  handsome  church,  or  chapel  of  ease, 
built  of  granite,  and  well  proportioned,  has  been  lately  erected;  but  the 
window-frames  are  unhappily  formed  of  wood  in  place  of  stone,  and  have  a 
bald  defective  appearance.  We  entered  the  chapel-yard,  and  were  struck 
with  the  numerous  tombstones  of  those  who  were  not  recorded  as  inhabitants 
of  the  town;  most  of  whom  had  probably  gone  there  in  the  hope  of  benefiting 
by  the  salubrious  climate  of  that  part  of  England.  Many  of  these,  when 
medical  attendance  had  become  hopeless  at  home,  were  sent  thither  to  die, 


COKNWALL. 


167 


who,  had  they  been  sent  on  the  first  appearance  of  symptoms  affording  ground 
for  apprehension,  might  have  recovered,  or  secured  a  term  of  existence  more 
protracted.  We  contemplated  these  memorials  of  our  fellow  beings,  cut  off 
in  the  bud  or  bloom  of  existence,  with  painful  feelings,  on  reflecting  upon  the 
sorrow  their  loss  must  have  caused,  and  the  high  and  affectionate  hopes  of  the 
living  that  had  thus  terminated  in  disappointment. 


U 


.1=5 


Penzance  is  between  nine  and  ten  miles  from  the  Land's  End.  The  decli- 
vity upon  which  it  stands  is  sheltered  by  tall  hills  from  the  prevalent  Atlantic 
west  winds ;  but  this  very  circumstance  exposes  it,  in  the  bight  of  the  bay,  to 
the  cold  eastern  blasts,  which,  in  its  own  mild  climate,  are  more  keenly  felt,  in 
consequence  of  the  general  equability  of  temperature.  This  was  a  coinage 
town  for  tin,  and  it  possesses  a  considerable  trade ;  the  high  water  of  spring- 
tides is  twenty-two  feet  deep  at  the  pier,  and  vessels  of  a  good  size  can 
approach  it  for  unloading  or  shelter.  There  are  several  dissenting  chapels 
in  the  town,  a  Public  Dispensary,  a  Geological  Society,  the  Transactions  of 
which  are  among  the  best  that  have  been  published  anywhere,  in  or  out  of 
the  metropolis;  and  the  society  possesses  a  good  collection  of  minerals,  a 
laboratory,  and,  what  is  more  than  all,  many  members  possessing  considerable 
zeal,  as  well  as  practical  scientific  knowledge.  This  institution  is  one  of 
which  Cornwall  stands  most  in  need,  abounding  as  that  county  does  in  too 
many  who  are  content  with  following  preceding  examples.  Until  lately, 
nowhere  was  there  less  disposition  to  leave  the  beaten  track,  or  to  credit  that 
improvement  was  possible, — that  all  which  might  be  known  was  not  yet 
acquired.  Recently  Sir  Charles  Lemon  offered  to  give  10,000/.  for  endowing 
a  mining  college,  and  could  obtain  no  support  for  such  an  innovation. 

Penzance  possesses  a  zealous  and  useful  Agricultural  Society ;  and  in  the 
vicinity  are  some  plants  and  flowers  well  worthy  of  attention,  as  not  being 
grown  anywhere  else  in  England  in  the  open  air.     We  were  much  struck  at 


168 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


He  was  fined  five  shillings 


seeing  the  fronts  of  very  large  houses  covered  with  flourishing  myrtles  of 
several  varieties  up  to  the  very  roofs ;  from  one  of  such  myrtles  cuttings 
were  taken  in  one  season  which  served  to  heat  the  oven  for  many  Aveeks. 

Over  the  town-hall  we  found  a  large  room  fitted  up  as  a  temporary 
theatre,  into  which  we  entered  for  half  an  hour,  and  in  that  time  had  enough 
of  the  performances.  The  piece  represented  a  Greek  pirate ;  and  furiously  did 
the  "  star"  of  the  company  tear  the  corsair  character  to  tatters.  A  number  of 
Mount's  Bay  fishermen  were  present,  who  seemed  very  attentive  to  the 
acting  and  the  strut  of  the  chief  performer  in  his  flashy  Greek  dress.  At 
length  one  of  them  looked  expressively  upon  his  comrade  at  what  was  clearly 
a  nautical  blunder, — "  That  wouldn't  do  in  our  bay,  Jim  I"  Polwhele  records 
a  very  amusing  story  of  one  of  these  hardy  fellows,  which  took  place  at 
Manaccan,  but  he  tells  it  imperfectly ;  for  it  happened  when  his  predecessor,  the 
Rev.  Mi*.  Peard,  was  vicar,  and  the  latter  told  it  to  a  friend  of  ours.  The 
reverend  gentleman  stated,  that  he  had  got  to  the  part  of  St.  Paul's  shipwreck 
where  it  is  said  they  "  threw  out  an  anchor  by  the  stern."  The  sailor  stared, 
listened  further,  and  then  exclaimed  so  loud  as  to  be  heard  all  over  the  church, 
"  All  wrong  !  All  wrong ! — Put  about !  Put  about ! — Bad  seamanship  ! — 
D —  me  if  I  wouldn't  have  saved  ship  and  cargo." 
the  next  day  for  the  oath. 

We  visited  the  market, 

and  found  the  price  of  pro- 
visions very  moderate;  fish 

of  all  kinds  Avas  cheap,  and 

good  enough  for  the  solace 

of  the  most  profound  al- 

dermanic  palate. 

The    fisliAvomen 

carry  their    fish 

in    a    basket    of 

the  above  form, 

called  a  coAval,  or 

coAvel.  They  are 

a     Avell  -  looking 

race,  and  live,  for 
the  most  part,  at  the  neighbouring  Arillages  of 
NeAvlyn  and  Mousehole,  coming  in  on  market- 
days  Avith  a  burden  that  would  crush  a  porter. 
The  cowal  is  borne  by  a  strap  passed  over 
the  head,  as  shown  in  the  accompanying 
engravings. 

Some  of  the  girls  of  these  villages  are  very  pretty,  having  teeth  beautifully 
White,  auburn  hair,  and  rosy  cheeks;  others  have  very  dark  eyes  and  hair;  but 


^jj^ 


CORNWALL. 


169 


all  are  round  in  the  limbs,  and  walk  with  a  mixture  of  elasticity  and  firmness; 
erect  in  their  carriage,  and  the  form  admirably  developed.  They  bring  train 
oil  in  pitchers  for  sale,  their  garments  bearing  the  perfume  as  strongly  as 
the  inhabitants  of  Northern  Russia,  while  they  cry  "  Buy  my  train  !  Buy  my 
train !"  with  a  drawl,  "  traain."  It  is  said  in  Cornwall  that  one  of  the 
"  things,"  called  in  London  "  men  about  town,"  in  the  country  a  "  beau," 
was  so  stricken  with  these  girls  that  he  made  love  to  them  in  the  market- 
place, so  far  in  one  case  as  to  suppose  he  might  snatch  one  of  those  indul- 
gences, for  taking  which  surreptitiously  cockney  magistrates  have  been  known 
to  inflict  heavy  fines.  The  gentleman  approached  the  rosy  lips  that  so 
attracted  him,  but  before  the  object  sought  could  be  seized,  the  odour  of 
train  oil  was  so  powerful,  that  the  attraction  and  repulsion  ensuing  displayed, 
in  perfection,  "  the  action  of  the  centripetal  and  centrifugal  forces,  terminating 
in  a  whirlabout." 

The  purity  of  the  English  spoken  in  Cornwall  we  have  mentioned  before ; 
and  in  this  remote  town  it  is  striking.  The  domestic  servants  speak  as  well  as 
people  of  the  higher  class,  never  having  been  half  a  dozen  miles  from  the  place 
in  their  lives.  As  it  is  part  of  our  duty  to  lay  before  the  reader  every  pecu- 
liarity of  the  localities  which  we  may  happen  to  describe,  we  give  the  follow- 
ing Dialogue  between  two  country  women,  Grace  Penvear  and  Molly 
Trevisky,  as  a  specimen  of  the  "  vulgar  tongue,"  rather  as  it  was  fifty  years 
ago  than  at  present. 

"  G.   Fath  and  trath  I  b'lieve  in  ten  parishes  round, 
Suchy  roag,  suchy  vellan  es  not  to  be  found ! 

M.  What's  the  fussing  un  Greacey  long  weth  a  cheeld-vean  ?' 

G.   A  fussing  aketha ! 2  'Od  splet  es  ould  brean — 
Our  Martin's  cum  hom  cheeld  so  drunk  as  a  beast, 
And  so  cross  as  the  gallish  from  Berranzand3  veast, 
A  cumm'd  in  a  tattering,  a  cussing  and  swaring, 
So  hard  as  a  stomps4  es,  tarving  and  tearing. 

M.  Never  mind  et  un  Greacey,  goa  put  en  to  bed ; 
Al  sleep  ale  tha  lecker  away  fram  es  head. 

G.    Why  I  wodn't  go  neast  un  to  git  the  king's  crown, 
For  a  swears  ef  I  speak  to  un  al  cleave  my  skull  down. 
Thee'st  nevar  en  ale  tha  born  days  fath  and  shoar, 
Dedst  behould  suchy  maze-gerry5  pattick  afore, 
Why  a  scat6  ale  to  midjons  and  jouds7  for  the  noans,8 
A  dome  bussa9  of  scale  milk  about  on  the  stones. 
And  a  catch'd  up  a  showl10  for  to  steeve11  ma  outright, 
But  I  runn'd  away  ready  to  fainty  for  fright. 
Loard !  tell  ma  un  Mally,  what  shall  I  do  by  an  ? 
For  sartin  as  deth  I'm  afeard  to  go  ni  an ! 

M.  I  knaw  what  I'd  do  ef  so  be  'twar  my  case, 
I'd  scat12  the  ould  chacks13  o'an,  I'd  trem  un  Greace. 

G.   I'm  afeard  o'  my  life  to  go  neast  the  ould  vellan, 
Else,  plase  father,  I  b'leeve  I  shud  parfectly  kill  un. 
Was  ever  poor  creychur14  so  baal'd15  and  abus'd? 
Ma  arms  are  like  bassam,16  the  roag  have  a  bruis'd. 


(1 )  Little  child.  A  common  mode  of  address 
among  both  sexes  ;  used  as  Italians  use  a 
diminutive. 

(2)  Exclamation,  probably  from  the  old 
Cornish. 

(3)  Perransand. 

(4)  A  stomps,  properly  stamps,  is  a  machine 
for  crushing  copper  ore,  iron-headed. 


(5)  "  Maze"  is  a  common  word  for  "  Mad' 
in  the  western  counties.— "  Maze-gerry,"  wilil - 
headed  "  Pattick,"  is  old  Cornish  for  a  fool. 

(6)  Dash'd. 

(7)  Small  pieces,  both  by  tearing  and  flrac 
ture. 

(8)  The  nonce. 

(9)  Clome  bussa,  an  earthen  vessel. 

(10)  Shovel. 

(11)  Cleave. 


(12)  Slap. 

(13)  Face  or  cheeks 


(14)  Creature. 

(15)  Boat. 

(10)  Blue  colour. 


170 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


I  made  for  es  supper  a  muggotty17  pie, 

Ef  a  doo  clunk18  a  croom19  o't  I  wish  I  may  die. 

M.  Ah !  I  tould  tha  afore  that  the  job  was  adone, 
That  theed'st  cum  to  repentance  as  sure  as  a  gun  : 
Bat  thee  wudst  not  hark  to  me,  not  doubting,  for  why, 
That  beshure  tha  didst  knaw  un  much  better  than  I ; 
But  I  knaw'd  the  trem  o'n  afore  tha  had'st  got  un, 
And  tould  tha  a  mashes20  o'  stories  about  un. 
But  tha  answered  so  toytish,  and  shrink'd  up  tha  noase, 
A  gissing  t'wor  great  stramming  lies  I  suppose ! 
There's  won  of  es  pranks  I  shall  aleways  remember, 
'Twill  be  three  year  agone  come  the  ighth  of  November ; 
I'de  two  pretty  young  mabyers21  as  eyes  could  behould, 
So  fat  as  the  butter,  jist  iteen  weeks  ould  ; 
They  war  picking  about  in  the  town-place22  for  meat, 
So  I  heaved  down  so  pellows23  among  them  to  eat, 
When  who  but  your  man  come  a  tottering  along, 
So  drunk  fath  I  thoft  he  wud  fale  in  the  dung ; 
A  tumbled  es  hoggan-bag24  down  by  the  dore, 
So  I  caal'd  to  the  man,  as  one  wud  to  be  shure, — 
"  Uncle  Mart'n,  dost  hire  cheeld  ?  take  up  tha  bag," 
"  Arria," 25  says  a,  "  for  what  art  a  caaling  me  dog  ?" 
A  drawd  forth  towardes  ma,  no  better  nor  wus, 
And  nact  the  mabyers  both  stiff  with  a  great  more 20  of  fuss.27 
Like  anow  an  I  haadn't  got  hastie  away, 
Ad  a  done  as  a  ded  to  Jan  Rous  to'ther  day, 
When  a  got  in  es  tantrums,  a  wilful  ould  debel, 
And  slamm'd  the  poor  man  en  the  head  with  the  kebel.28 
Fath  and  trath  then  un  Greace  ef  so  be  a  doant  alter, 
I  b'leeve  en  ma  conscience  ele  poot29  in  a  halter. 

G.   When  the  licker  is  runn'd  away  every  drap, 
Tes  too  late  to  be  thinking  of  stapping  the  tap  ; 
An  marridge  must  go  as  the  Loard  do  ordain, 
But  a  passon30  wud  sware  to  ba  used  so  cheeld  vean. 
Had  I  knaw'd  tha  coose31  o'n  but  nine  weeks  ago, 
I'd  never  have  had  the  ould  vellan  I  know  ; 
But  a  vow'd  and  a  swared  that  ef  I'd  be  hes  wife, 
I  never  shud  lack  ale  the  days  of  my  life ; 
An  a  broft  me  a  nackin 32  and  corn  sieve  from  Preen33— 
In  ma  conshance,  thoft  I,  I  shall  live  like  a  queen. 
But  'tes  plaguy  provoking,  od  rat  hes  ould  head  ! 
To  be  pooted  and  flopt  so — I  wish  a  wor  dead! 
Why  a  spent  half  es  fangings34  last  Saturday  night — 
Like  anow,  by  this  time,  tes  gone  every  mite. 
But  I'll  tame  the  old  debel  before  et  be  long, 
Ef  I  caant  with  my  vistes,35  I  will  we  ma  tongue !"  * 


(17)  Lamb's  entrails. 

(18)  Swallow,  from  ' 

(19)  A  crumb. 


clynk,"  old  Cornish. 


(20)  A  great  number. 


(21)  Young  fowls,  from  "mab,"  old  Cor- 
nish ;  as  "mab  an  lavar,"  an  infant. 

(22)  Space  before  the  front  of  the  house. 

(23)  Pilez,  a  species  of  grain  given  to  fowls 
in  Cornwall.  The  aveua  nuda,  a  sort  of 
naked  oat. 

(24)  Dinner  bag. 


(25)  Old  Cornish  for—"  Oh  strange!" 
common  exclamation  of  surprise. 

(26)  Root. 
(2?)  Furze. 


(28)  The  bucket  used  for  drawing  up  ore 
from  a  mine  :  called  a  corve  in  coal  districts. 

(29)  Poot  means  kick. 


(3(1)  Parson. 
(31)  Course. 


(32)  Handkerchief. 

(33)  Penryn. 


(34)  Wages. 


(3.r>)  Fists. 


*  Dr.  Paris  has  erroneously  attributed  this  Dialogue  to  Dr.  Walcot,  and  has  annexed  a  note  to  a 
copy  of  it,  which  exhibits  a  complete  misunderstanding  of  the  phrase,  "  cheel-veau,"  little  child,  and 
an  attack  upon  the  fair  fame  of  the  Cornish  lasses.  The  fact  is,  that  the  foregoing  dialogue  was 
written  about  1790,  by  an  exceedingly  clever  but  eccentric  individual,  a  Mr.  Fox,  who  died  at  Bristol 
within  the  last  twenty  years.  He  was  an  excellent  Persian  scholar;  and  once  kept  a  shop  at  Fal- 
mouth, which  was  burned,  together  with  his  house :  when  he  found  the  fire  too  powerful  to  be  sub- 


CORNWALL.  1  7  I 

Penzance  is  a  corporate  town ;  which  boon  it  owes  to  James  L,  in  1G19,  who 
deputed  its  government  to  a  mayor  and  eight  aldermen,  with  twelve  assistants. 
The  present  corporate  income  is  upwards  of  two  thousand  a  year ;  and  the 
town,  not  having  been  a  Cornish  borough  of  the  olden  time,  ever  furnished  an 
honourable  exception  in  the  mode  of  managing  the  public  property ;  nowhere 
has  it  been  better  disposed  of  in  improvements ;  and  nowhere  has  the  equitable 
outlay  of  similar  funds  better  exhibited  in  its  results  the  judicious  mode  in 
which  it  was  effected. 

This  town  is  situated  in  the  parish  of  Madron,  or  Madern,*  a  living  in  the 
gift  of  the  Rev.  M.  N.  Peters ;  but  the  gift  of  the  chapel  of  ease  belongs  to 
the  corporation.  Who  Madron,  or  St.  Madern,  was,  is  unknown ;  being  either 
so  ancient  or  so  obscure  a  personage,  except  perhaps  in  the  district  of  Penwith, 
that  ecclesiastical  and  profane  records  are  utterly  silent  about  him.  At  the 
time  of  the  Norman  conquest,  Madern  was  denominated  Alverton.  The 
church,  about  which  there  is  nothing  meriting  notice  here,  stands  in  a  com- 
manding situation.  The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  is  very  picturesque ;  and  there 
are  numerous  private  houses  which,  as  edifices,  require  no  observation,  either 
on  account  of  their  size  or  architecture,  but  which  stand  in  situations  scarcely 
to  be  surpassed  for  beauty  of  prospect.  Castle  Horneck,  Trengwainton,  Tre- 
reife,  Trenear,  Nancealvern,  Rose  Hill,  Lariggan,  Kenegie,  and  Boskenna, 
are  among  the  principal  country  houses  in  the  vicinity  of  Penzance.  At 
Madern,  among  the  old  memorials  is  the  following :  — 

"  Belgium  me  birth,  Britaine  me  breeding  gave, 
Cornwall  a  wife,  ten  children,  and  a  grave." 

In  this  parish  was  born  the  late  Sir  Humphry  Davy,  whose  chemical  dis- 
coveries have  immortalized  his  name.  Madern  Well,  in  the  same  parish,  we 
found,  after  a  long  search,  situated  in  a  moor,  a  good  distance  from  the  church, 
in  a  northerly  direction.  All  that  remains  of  the  votive  chapel  that  once 
belonged  to  it,  may  be  seen  here.  The  popular  belief  in  the  virtues  of  this 
well  have  not  yet  ceased ;  once  it  was  universal.  Bishop  Hall  descanted  upon 
Madern  Well,  in  his  "  Great  Mystery  of  Godliness;"  and,  though  the 
water  has  no  medicinal  virtues  that  chemistry  can  detect,  the  prelate  gives 
examples  of  its  curative  and  miraculous  virtues.  The  chapel  at  this  well 
seems  to  have  been  constructed  upon  the  model  of  many  others  in  the  county ; 

dued,  he  mounted  a  hill  behind  the  town  to  admire  the  effect  of  the  reflection  in  the  sea,  the  fire 
happening  at  night ;  he  was  uninsured. — In  the  second  case,  Dr.  Paris  should  have  recollected  that 
the  phrase,  "  cheel-vean,"  is  used  between  persons  of  the  male  sex.  There  is  the  line  in  another 
dialogue,  every  way  equal  to  the  above  in  humour,  between  Job  Mungler  and  Jan  Trudle,  where 
Mungler  tells  how  he  has  hid  his  property  from  the  French,  and  says  : — 

"  So  far  doubting,  cheel-vean,  as  I  tould  tha  afore, 
I've  a  squadg'd1  et  down  ninety  good  fathom  or  more."  (')  Hid  it  away. 


* 


In  the  Taxatio  of  Pope  Nicholas,  in  1291,  we  find  it  written  "Ecclia  Sci  Maderni." 


172 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


though,  except  a  stone 
which  served  for  inserting 
the  central  impost  of  a 
window,  there  are  none 
with  such  careful  marks 
of  the  tool  as  we  found  in 
some  places.  Here  crip- 
ples Avere  cured,  and  dis- 
eases healed,  more  by  faith 
in  being  cured  than  by 
aquatic  efficacy.  Borlase 
says,  too,  that  it  was 
thought  to  possess  oracular 
virtues,  like  that  of  St. 
Euny  in  Sancred,  an  ad 
joining  parish.  Pins  Avere  dropped  into  the  Avater,  and  it  was  observed  Iioav 
they  lay,  heads  or  points  together ;  bubbles  were  raised  on  certain  days  of  the 
year,  by  stamping  upon  the  ground  near ;  and  thus  Avere  events  to  come  sup- 
posed to  be  revealed. 

In  this  parish  is  the  inscribed  stone  called  Men  Scryfa, 
in  old  Cornish,  or  the  "  Written  Stone."  It  is  nine  feet 
ten  inches  long,  by  tAventy  inches  broad,  and  bears  the 
words  Riolobran — Cunoval—fil,  ov,  at  full  length,  Riola- 
branus  Cunotali  filius.  The  date  of  its  erection,  as  well 
as  the  person  whose  name  is  thus  recorded,  are  equally 
unknoAvn. 

In  Madern  parish  is  the  Lanyon  Cromlech,  on  the 
side  of  the  road  from  Penzance  to  Morva;  this  last 
church  has  been  lately  rebuilt,  and  is  a  Aacarage,  pass- 
ing Avith  that  of  Madern.  The  cromlech  alluded  to 
is  called  the  "  Quoit  of  the  Giant"  by  the  country 
people,  and  is  elevated  high  enough  for  a  man  on 
horseback  to  pass  beneath  it;  and  there  is  another 
at  Molfra,  in  this  parish.  The  flat  stone  of  the  Lanyon 
Cromlech  is  forty-seven  feet  in  circumference,  and 
weighs  above  twenty  tons.  It  slipped  off  the  imposts 
during  a  violent  storm,  some  years  ago,  but  Avas  re- 
placed by  the  powerful  machinery  that  restored  the  Logan  stone  to  its 
position.  In  Zennai*,  or  Senar,  parish,  which  adjoins  Madern,  is  another  of 
these  ancient  monuments ;  the  supporters  of  Avhich  enclose  a  square  chamber, 
six  feet  eight  inches  by  four  feet;  the  uprights  eight  feet  ten  inches  high;  and 
round  the  whole,  on  the  outside  only,  is  heaped  a  stone  barrow,  fourteen  yards 
in  diameter.     The  upper  stone  here  is  above  fourteen  feet  long,  by  nine  in 


CORNWALL. 


/  o 


diameter.  In  Morva  parish,  south-west  of  an  old  circular  military  work 
called  Chun  Castle,  of  very  careful  construction,  the  outer  wall  being  of 
stone,  as  well  as  the  divisions  within, — a  work  belonging  to  no  ancient 
people  at  present   recognised    by  their  fortifications, — near  this  work  is  a 

third   cromlech,  having   a   stone  barrow  round  it.       The 

Lanyon,  Zennar,  and  Chun  Cromlechs,  are  represented  here, 

bearing  the  numbers  one,  two,   and  four.      The    third  is 

called  Caerwynen,  and  stands  twenty  miles  distant,  in  the 

parish  of  camborn ;    it  is  rather  less 

than  that  of  Chun.     Morva  parish  is 

remarkable   for  its  granite  hill,  called 

Cam  Galva,  where  the  vast  blocks 

of  this  stone  lie  yet  untouched  by 

man,  all  in  their  natural  state, 


Zennar  parish  is  bounded  by  a  chain  of  elevations  and  rocks  on  the  land 
side,  and  is  a  mile  wide;  limited  towards  the  ocean  by  granite  cliffs,  and 
is  remarkably  fertile.  The  church  is  a  neat  stone  edifice,  the  patron  of 
which  is  one  of  those  obscure  saints  who  are  so  little  rare  in  this  county.  On 
the  west  of  this  parish  a  bold  headland  pushes  into  the  ocean,  called  Treryn 
Dinas,  almost  as  grand  as  Castle  Treryn  on  the  opposite  coast ;  consisting  of 
cliffs  of  trappean  rock,  bordered  with  granite.  To  the  east  of  Zennar  lies  the 
parish  of  Towednack,  which  is  barren,  with  a  few  fertile  spots,  and  contains 
nothing  of  interest, — the  church  being  a  daughter-church  to  Lelant.  There 
is  an  old  entrenchment  in  this  joarish,  called  Trccragan.  St.  Just-in-Penwith 
is  a  parish  lying  to  the  west  of  Morva.  It  was  the  patron  saint  of  this  parish 
who  robbed  St.  Keverne  of  his  plate,  as  we  have  before  related ;  a  story  which 


174 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


is  perhaps  a  cruel  libel  upon  his  character,  if  the  accounts  of  his  being  sent 
into  England  to  convert  the    Saxons  be  true;    though  the  miracle  of  the 
Tremen-heverne  stones  is  a  sad  stumblingblock.     He  is  said  to  have  died  in 
627.     The  parish  is  almost  wholly  on  granite,  and  borders  upon  the  sea:  near 
the  cliffs  are  the  remains  of  an  old  work,  called  Karnid- 
jack  castle.     A  wilder  country  we  never  saw ;  even 
the  mines,  of  which  there  are  several,  are  worked 
through  granite ;  and  St.  Just  church-town,  though  a 
neat  little  village,  is  situated  in  one  of  the  most  naked 
spots  we  ever  beheld;  it  contains  a  stone  cross,  of 
which  we  give  the  representation.     The  mines  in  the 
vicinity  contribute  much  to  the  benefit  of  this  village; 
the  church  stands  on  one  side  of  an  open  space  of  con- 
siderable extent,  and  is  constructed  of  granite,  in  a 
very  solid  manner ;  a  material  quite  necessary,  as  it 
is  situated  close  to  Cape  Cornwall,  exposed  to  the 
Atlantic  storms  in  all  their  rage.     Here  we  found  a 
comfortable  country  inn,   good-humoured  attention, 
and,  what  the  miners  have  caused  by  their  demand 
to  be  brewed  of  excellent  quality,  that  seducing  beve- 
rage, a  bowl  of  which  Peter  Pindar  says, 

"  Invites  the  unwary  -wanderer  to  a  kiss, 
Smiles  in  his  face,  as  though  it  meant  him  bliss, 
Then  like  an  alligator  drags  him  in." 

Cape  Cornwall  is  a  noble  promontory,  with  cliffs  composed  of  slate  rock, 
traversed  by  veins  of  actinolite,  three  times  the  height  of  the  Land's  End  above 
the  sea,  and  separated  from  it  by  Whitesand  Bay.  Hard  by  is  a  mine  worked 
seventy  fathoms  under  the  most  tempestuous  sea  which  lashes  the  British 
shores ;  where  the  workmen,  at  their  labour,  hear  the  waves  thundering  over 
their  heads,  in  a  terrible  manner.  It  is  here  that  the  efforts  of  the  Cornish 
miner  fill  the  mind  with  astonishment ;  as,  upon  the  verge  of  the  sea,  on  a 
savage  coast,  all  his  operations  are  carried  on,  even  to  refining.  At  Pendeen 
Cove,  the  ore  being  found  mixed  with  sulphate  of  copper,  the  latter  is  ex- 
tracted and  precipitated  on  the  spot ;  and  at  Pendeen,  too,  is  an  ancient  cave,  of 
small  size,  evidently  artificial,  a  place  of  refuge  in  early  times.  In  the  St.  Just 
mines  rare  minerals  have  been  found,  such  as  axinite,  similar  to  that  of  Dau- 
phine;  garnet  rock,  apatite,  prehnite,  stilbite,  and  foliated  zeolite,  radiated 
mesotype,  and  pinite. 

The  Botallack  Mine  is  an  astonishing  undertaking  on  the  very  edge  of  the 
sea,  where  the  parts  of  an  enormous  steam  engine  had  to  be  lowered  two 
hundred  feet  down  a  rocky  cliff,  almost  perpendicular;  and  here  mules  and 
their  riders  may  be  seen  trotting  down  tracks  that  the  pedestrian  stranger 


CORNWALL. 


175 


trembles  to  pass.     The  view  from  below,  looking  upward,  is  fearfully  grand, 
and  even  more  impressive  for  its  combination  with  the  labours  of  art. 

From  St.  Just  we  coasted  the  bay  of  the  beautiful  white  sand  that  gives  it 
a  name ;  and  to  our  surprise,  passed  some  fine  corn-fields  in  hollows  that  were 
surrounded  by  the  most  dreary  heaths.  Before  quitting  this  parish,  we  must 
mention  the  amphitheatre,  alluded  to  in  our  description  of  Piran  Round,  formed 
with  stone  seats  or  steps,  and  several  stone  circles  also,  which  intersect  each 
other.  Whitesand  Bay,  containing  some  rare  species  of  small  shells,  is  the 
spot  where  King  Stephen  landed  on  his  arrival  in  England ;  King  John  on 
his  return  from  Ireland ;  and  Perkin  Warbeck,  who  laid  claim  to  the  crown  of 
England ;  and  here  Athelstan  embarked  for  Scilly.  We  saw  some  large  and 
majestic  long-bearded  goats,  in  our  march  from  St.  Just  to  Sennen,  as  wild 
and  picturesque,  with  their  shaggy  coats,  as  the  scenery  which  surrounded 
them. 

A  drizzling  rain  came  on  from  the  southward,  and  so  enveloped  surrounding 
objects  that  we  could  not  see  more  than  two  or  three  hundred  yards  around 
us.  In  this  inauspicious  state  of  the  atmosphere  for  the  traveller,  we  reached 
"  the  first  and  last  inn  in  England,  kept  by  Richard  Botheras,"  as  recorded  on 
the  different  faces  of  the  sign.  It  is  close  to  Sennen  church ;  and  we  took  our 
own  "  ease  in  our  inn,"  as  night  closed  in  upon  an  atmosphere  that  the  beams 
of  a  full  moon  could  not  irradiate,  so  that  we  knew  nothing  of  the  locality  where 
we  rested, — a  circumstance  which  sometimes  gives  rise  to  pleasant  surprises ; 
for  not  a  great  while  before  sunrise,  being  sleepless,  we  approached  the  bed- 
room window,  and  found  the  heavens  clear,  while,  directly  before  us,  too  low 
for  a  star,  gleamed  a  star-like  light ;  and  in  a  line  Avith  it,  still  higher,  we 
descried  a  second  object  of  the  same  kind.  In  vain  we  puzzled  ourselves  to 
discover  what  those  lights 
might  be,  until  daylight 
unravelled  the  mystery. 
We  were  in  a  room  front- 
ing the  west,  and  about  a 
mile  from  the  Land's  End, 
over  which,  and  apparent- 
ly very  near  the  shore, 
though  two  miles  from  it, 
are  the  Long  Ship's  rocks, 
on  one  of  which  was  a 
lighthouse.  The  second 
light  was  that  of  the  Scilly 
Isles,  none  of  which  can 
be  descried  by  the  naked 
eye  in  the  day  time.     The 


L0112; 


Ship's 


lighthouse 


176 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


stands  upon  a  fearful  ridge  of  rocks,  horridly  black  and  jagged  when  seen 
at  low  water  or  half-tide.  This  lighthouse  is  built  of  granite,  upon  a  rock 
which  rises  sixty  feet  out  of  the  water,  as  far  as  to  the  base  of  the  lighthouse. 
The  height  of  the  lighthouse  itself  to  the  vane  is  fifty -two  feet,  the  whole  being 
112  feet  above  the  sea,  yet  the  glass  of  the  Ian  thorn,  which  is  exceedingly 
thick,  has  been  repeatedly  broken  by  the  waves  dashing  in  spray  far  over  its 
summit.  The  lighthouse  is  faithfully  delineated  in  the  preceding  engraving.* 
Sennen  church-town  is  about  400  feet  above  the  sea ;  and  the  road  to  the 
celebrated  promontory  is  a  very  gentle  descent,  through  the  village  of  Mayon, 
where  there  is  a  stone,  no  way  remarkable  in  appearance,  upon  which  three 
unknown  kings  are  reported  to  have  dined,  who  came  to  visit  the  Land's  End. 
The  soil  is  fertile,  though  lying  upon  granite.  The  church  of  St.  Sennen, 
named  from  a  saint  that  Hals  declares  to  have  been  a  Persian,  is  a  neat  edi- 
fice ;  in  Tonkin's  Notes,  the  same  patron  saint  is  declared  to  have  been  Irish ; 
it  is  probable  that  neither  the  one  nor  the  other  is  correct.  There  are  memo- 
rials here  of  the  family  of  the  Ellises ;  and  the  fine  granite  tower  is  conspi- 
cuous a  great  distance  off.  It  is  only  on  this  promontory,  shooting  out  into 
the  western  ocean  so  far,  that  granite  is  seen  in  contact  with  the  waves, 
although  abounding  so  much  in  the  centre  of  the  county ;  and  here  its  huge 
blocks,  piled  in  confused  grandeur,  cubic  and  sometimes  basaltic  in  form,  are 
truly  magnificent.  On  arriving  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  rocks,  the 
slope  towards  the  sea  becomes  more  rapid.  A  house  designed  for  a  small  inn, 
but  never  occupied  as  such,  stands  just  where  a  steeper  descent  commences 


-.-  —-^***a&m* 


down  to  the  verge  of  the  rocks,  piled 
about  sixty  feet  above  the  waves.  The 
sketch  furnishes  a  correct  idea  of  this 
headland,  the  ancient  Bolerium,  as 
seen  close  at  hand ;  the  point  in  the 
distant  horizon  being  Cape  Cornwall. 
The  Land's  End,  in  connexion  with  the 
Long  Ship's  rocks  and  lighthouse,  is 
exhibited  in  the  steel  engraving. 

*  The  revenue  from  vessels  passing  this  light  is  3,000/.  per  annum ;  British  ships  paying 
penny  per  ton,  and  foreigners  a  shilling  each  vessel. 


a  half- 


%J~V- 


rj" 


J\J* 


K. 


■ 


rXvT 


CORNWALL.  177 

Here  then  we  stood,  the  waves  thundering  below,  and  before  us  the  Atlantic 
without  a  shore  nearer  than  America;  the  horizon  line,  not  straight,  but 
appearing,  as  it  really  is,  the  section  of  a  circle,  and  blending  softly  with  the 
summer  sky ; — here,  amid  a  convulsion  of  rocks  and  precipices  that  form 
an  irresistible  barrier  to  the  raging  waters,  we  were  impressed  with  the  feeling 
of  a  position  amidst  a  vast  solitude,  which  some  speak  of  experiencing  in 
deserts.*  It  is  true,  there  were  no  arid  sands  here ;  for  the  richest  heaths, 
dwarf  furze,  almost  all  bloom,  only  three  or  four  inches  high,  and  several  kinds 
of  wild  flowers,  of  which  we  did  not  know  the  names,  enamelled  the  ground 
beneath  our  feet;  but  there  was  an  overpowering  loneliness,  a  sense  of  our 
own  insignificance  compared  to  what  was  around  us,  amidst  a  silence  only 
broken  by  the  hollow  booming  of  a  restless  sea,  that  broke  into  the  orifices  of 
the  cliff  far  beneath  our  feet,  or  now  and  then  by  the  shrieking  of  a  cormorant, 
or  the  rushing;  wing;  of  a  sea-mew. 

There  is  a  tale  related,  with  the  customary  exaggerations,  respecting  the 
fall  of  a  horse  over  the  rocks  here,  and  of  the  narrow  escape  of  the  rider, 
which,  as  no  name  is  mentioned,  every  one  thinks  he  may  tell  in  his  own 
way.  The  officer's  name  whose  horse  thus  fell  over  was  Captain  Arbuthnot, 
about  forty  years  ago,  upon  the  staff  of  the  western  district,  accompanying  his 
superior  officer,  General  Wilford,  who  also  had  a  command  in  the  same 
district,  to  see  the  Land's  End.  The  general  dismounted  on  the  brow  of 
the  descent ;  but  Captain  Arbuthnot,  who  did  not  know  the  nature  of  the 
ground,  rode  down  some  way,  when,  the  grass  being  slippery  and  his  horse 
alarmed,  he  dismounted,  and,  flinging  the  bridle  over  his  arm,  led  on  the 
animal,  which,  startled  most  probably  at  the  roar  of  the  sea  in  front,  backed 
himself  over  the  cliff  which  was  near  in  another  direction,  and  dragged 
Captain  Arbuthnot  to  the  edge,  before  he  could  disengage  his  arm,  thus 
narrowly  escaping  being  pulled  over  with  him.  We  must  again  remark  that 
the  Land's  End  is  a  low  headland,  not  more  than  sixty  feet  in  height,  as  the 
ground  is  all  the  way  a  descent  to  its  extremity,  and  the  headlands  on  both  sides 

*  We  have  been  favoured  with  the  following  lines,  written  on  this  spot : — 
"  Bolerium,  thou  whose  base  the  white-plum'd  sea 

Arm'd  with  a  thousand  tempests  strikes  in  vain, 

Of  adamantine  brow,  and  giant  mien, 
Our  guard  from  wild  Atlantic  tyranny, 
As  on  thy  fearful  marge  I  track  my  way, 

And  view  thy  far  horizon's  boundless  reign 

And  misty  isles,  swart  clouds  distent  with  rain 
Veil  thy  majestic  realm  from  '  garish'  day, 
And  then  the  shrieking  cormorant  furls  her  wing, 

Amid  the  gathering  gloom  and  solitude, 

Like  those  the  wide  creation  overspread, 

When,  whelm'd  beneath  one  universal  flood, 
Earth  lay  in  watery  death,  and,  suffering, 

Hope,  with  the  last  of  life,  to  heaven  upfled." 
A  A 


178 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTUHY. 


rise  to  four  and  five  times  the  elevation;  its  Cornish  name  is  " Pemcith,  the 
Headland," — or  "  Antyer  Deweth,  the  Land's  End."  We  now  directed  our 
steps  southward,  to  Pardeniek  Point ;  first  ascending,  and  then  going  down 
into  a  hollow,  along  the  edge  of  a  precipice,  concave  horizontally,  and  off  one 
extremity  having  a  curious  holed  rock,  called  Enys  Dodnan,  through  which  the 
sea  rolled  and  boiled  tumultuously,  covered  thickly  with  birds,  the  noise  of 
Avhich  was  continually  re-echoed  from  the  cliffs.  Beyond  this  rock  to  the 
north,  another  rose  out  of  the  waves,  called  the  Armed  Knight,  An  Marogeth 
Arvowed,  in  Cornish;  and  it  looked  something  like  mail,  the  masses  being 
cubic,  and  united  with  joints.  Pardeniek  Point  rises  above  200  feet,  and 
also  consists  of  granite  cubes ;  which,  interrupted  by  a  small  IioIIoav,  again 
project  in  the  singularly  grand  headland  called  Cam  y  voe!,  forming  one  extremity 
of  Nanjisal  or 
Mill  Bay.  The 
height  of  this 
grand  shore  is 
seen  in  the  an- 
nexed delinea- 
tion ;  but  the 
artist  has  omit- 
ted the  intro- 
duction of  a 
singular  cross 
of  rock,  which 


finishes  one  of 
the  two  points 


the 


a  Aft  r.;uT, 


seen   over 
summit. 

Here  we  fell  in  with  a  sailor  belonoing;  to  this  bold  coast,  whom  we  took 
for  a  guide  to  the  headland  denominated  Tol  Pedn  Penwith,  or  the  "  holed 
headland  on  the  left  hand."*  The  declivity  is  steep,  and  it  requires  steadiness  of 
head  to  descend  towards  the  sea;  near  which,  about  fifty  feet  above  the  beach, 
a  perpendicular  hole  or  shaft  goes  down  into  a  cavern,  both  ends  of  which  the 
sea  enters ;  it  is  circulai*,  and  as  regular  as  if  drilled  out  of  the  solid  granite,  the 
sides  being  perfectly  smooth.  It  was  probably  formed  by  the  waves  meeting 
just  under  a  soft  place  between  the  granite,  and  whirling  upwards  the  stones 
and  pebbles  against  the  sides,  thus  continually  acting  upon  them  by  attrition. 
The  Land's  End  promontory  is  nothing  comparable  to  the  scenery  in  its  vicinity 
for  grandeur ;  Tol  Pedn  Penwith  alone  is  far  more  worthy  of  a  visit,  but 
most  persons  prefer  instead  to  see  the  most  western  point  of  England.  Across 
this  headland  are  slight  traces  of  ancient  works  of  defence ;  all  which  works  the 


*  For  a  representation  of  this  headland,  see  page  2. 


CORNWALL. 


179 


Cornish  denominate  "castles,"  though  in  no  way  resembling  them ;  we  observed 
the  Cornish  daw  or  chough  haunting  these  cliffs.* 

Continuing  further  along  the  coast,  we  jjassed  some  landmarks  designed  for 
keeping  the  course  of  vessels  away  from  a  sunken  rock  much  dreaded,  called 
the  Runnel  Stone ;  over  which  the  sea  looked  deceitfully  smooth.  "We  then 
came  down  into  a  hollow,  or  valley,  well  cultivated,  terminating  in  a  rocky 
cove  called  Porthgwarrah ;  and  again  mounting  a  steep  hill,  descended  to 
St.  Levan  church-town.  Here,  upon  inquiring  for  the  well  and  chapel  of 
St.  Levan,  of  which  guide  books  spoke  confidently,  we  discovered  that  the 
sea  had  many  years  ago  washed  away 
the  remnant  of  the  chapel,  the  steps 
still  remaining ;  and  as  for  the  well, 
we  coidd  find  no  other  than  that 
here  represented,  which  lies  high  up 
the  steep,  barren,  and  rocky  shore, 
little  better  than  a  cliff.  It  had, 
no  doubt,  belonged  to  the  chapel 
below,  and  is  within  a  hundred  yards 
of  the  church. 

We  found  corn  growing  in  most  of  the  hollows  and  valleys  of  this  rocky 
parish;  and  at  Porthgwarrah,  above-mentioned,  which  was  a  narrow  vale 
ending  in  a  small  cove  of  the  sea,  it  appeared  to  be  of  excellent  quality.  It 
had  been  found  worth  while  by  the  farmers  in  the  vicinity,  at  a  considerable 
expense  of  money  and  labour,  to  employ  miners  to  excavate  a  short  tunnel 
for  carts  through  a  mass  of  earth  and  rock  beyond  which  lay  the  sand  so  valued 
in  Cornish  husbandry. 

St.  Levan  takes  its  name  from  St.  Levine ;  the  church  stands  in  a  very 
retired  spot,  near  the  sea;  and  the  parish  contains  the  most  romantic  and 
bold  scenery  in  the  south  of  Cornwall,  wholly  granitic.  In  the  church  is  a 
monument  to  the  memory  of  a  Miss  Dennis,  the  daughter  of  one  of  the  supe- 
rior class  of  farmers,  who,  in  this  remote  parish,  became  noted  for  her  mental 

She  was  a  friend  of  the  Wedgwood 


attainments  and  poetical  good  taste. 


*  The  birds  of  Cornwall  are  varied  and  numerous ;  some  kinds  are  rarely  seen  elsewhere  in  Eng- 
land, as  the  bee-eater ;  the  eagle  is  found  here,  the  kite,  buzzard,  goshawk,  kestrel — in  Cornish 
keysat,  and  every  kind  of  hawk  ;  the  thrush,  blackbird,  lark,  missel  bird  called  the  holm-thrush ; 
linnets  of  all  species ;  gold  and  bull-finches ;  the  ruddock,  long-eared  owl,  nutcracker,  roller,  great 
spotted  woodpecker,  king  fisher,  bustard,  turtle  dove,  stock  dove,  starling,  red-wing,  ring  ousel,  water 
ousel,  oriole,  reed  bunting,  tawny  bunting,  redstart,  brambling,  woodlark,  yellow  wren,  sedgebird, 
sand  marten,  sand  piper,  gold  plover — in  vast  flocks,  long-legged  plover,  ring  dotterel,  oyster  eater, 
spotted  gallinule,  coote,  grebe,  puffin,  arctic  and  common  gull,  great  and  lesser  tarn,  shear  water, 
stormy  petrel,  gooseander,  wild  swan,  heron,  common  wild  goose,  duck,  widgeon,  teal,  woodcock, 
snipe,  partridge— common  and  red-legged,  quail,  landrail,  shelldrake,  swallow,  Royston  crow,  night- 
crow— or  fern-owl,  raven,  crossbill,  hoopoe,  green  woodpecker  with  vermilion  crown,  sea  lark,  sea  pie, 
mews,  torrock,  gannet,  bernacle,  lapwing,  curlew,  shag,  didapper,  golden  crested  wren,  and  many 
others.  Woodcocks'  eggs  have  been  found,  and  hatched  by  art ;  and  the  young  of  the  snipe  have  been 
taken  on  Bodmin  downs.     Singular  enough,  the  nightingale  neither  visits  Cornwall  nor  Devon.. 


180 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


family,  wrote  a  novel  called  Sophia  St.  Clare,  and  died  in  1809,  of  consump- 
tion, after  understanding  .ZEschylus  and  Pindar  in 
the  original  Greek,  reading  Latin  well,  being  a  per- 
fect mistress  of  the  French  tongue,  and  well  read 
in  the  best  writers  of  these  languages,  as  well  as  of 
her  own.  In  the  church-yard  we  observed  this  cross 
of  granite,  about  six  feet  in  height. 

Near  the  church  we  entered  a  humble  inn,  and 
were  told  by  the  wife  of  the  owner  that  she  remem- 
bered long  years  back,  when  she  went  to  Madern 
Well,  with  her  companions,  to  try  her  fortune ;  but 
she  had  never  heard  of  its  being  done  at  St.  Levan. 
In  this  part  of  Cornwall,  when  a  person  is  drowned, 
his  voice,  many  people  believe,  is  heard  afterwards,  in 
stormy  weather,  at  the  place  where  he  perished ;  when 
he  is  said  "  to  be  hailing  his  own  name ;"  to  which 
superstition  the  following  lines  seem  to  refer,  the  scene  being  laid  in  this  locality. 

St.  Levan's  cliff,  the  Cornish  maid 

Mounts  high  above  the  angry  tide  : 
The  locks  her  dark  eyes  overshade, 

Stream  to  the  tempest  wild  and  wide. 

Her  gaze  is  where  the  weltering  waves 

Thunder  along  the  trembling  strand  ; 
She  heeds  not  how  the  mad  storm  raves, 

Her  lover's  voice  comes  to  the  land. 

He  "  hails  his  name  !"    then  waxing  weak, 
A  death-shriek  seems  to  come  and  go — 
"  My  love,  'tis  I,  thine  Ellen,  speak — 
It  lightens  so  my  bosom's  woe  !" 

The  waves  curl  higher  on  the  shore, 

Louder  they  rage  in  fierce  turmoil ; 
That  well-known  voice  is  heard  once  more, — 

She  rushes  where  the  surges  boil : — 

"  O  William,  thou?  speak — speak  to  me — 

To  me — and  tell  me  thou  art  blest !" 
No  more,  for  that  ungoverned  sea 

Has  borne  her  to  eternal  rest. 

And  now  when  lightnings,  red  and  warm, 

Kindle  the  sea-foam  as  they  go, 
Beneath  St.  Levan's  cliff,  the  storm 

Returns  a  double  voice  of  woe. 

Port  Carnow  Cove,  bounded  on  the  eastern  side  by  rocks  which  shoot  far 
into  the  waves,  and  rise  to  a  great  height,  heaped  one  upon  another  in  magni- 
ficent disorder,  is  situated  a  short  distance  from  St.  Levan's.  This  cove  is 
covered  with  a  beautiful  sand,  containing  many  rare  shells.  It  is  upon  these 
rocks  that  the  Logan  Stone  is  situated, — a  natural  curiosity,  which  Lieutenant 
Goldsmith,  of  the  navy,  displaced  from  its  balance,  and  then  lifted  again  into 


CORNWALL. 


181 


its  old  position ;  the  holes  where  he  fixed  his  tackle  are  visible  in  the  rock. 
Some  years  ago  any  body  went  and  rocked  this  nine  days'  wonder  that  pleased, 
as  had  been  done  for  ages ;  but  the  notoriety  of  what  the  good  officer  did,  has 
produced  the  common  result 
of  turning  it  into  a  money- 
show.  The  stone  weighs 
sixty-five  tons ;  and  is  regu- 
larly chained  and  padlocked 
up  since,  when  the  keeper 
is  not  near;  by  whose  au- 
thority we  know  not.  If 
Borlase's  notion  that  it  was 
a  rock  deity  endowed  it 
with  something  like  ro- 
mance— all  romance  must 
now  be  dissipated ;  it  is 
utterly  worthless  as  a  curi- 
osity :  a  granite  stone  of  a 
larger  size  may  easily  be 

brought  and  set  up  in  the  London  parks,  and  save  cockneys  the  journey  to  see 
that  of  Port  Carnow.  The  spot  where  it  stands  is  denominated  Castle  Treryn, 
because  it  is  crossed  by  two  earthen  ramparts  and  ditches,  evidently  works  of 
military  defence.  Those  who  have  a  feeling  for  the  grand  in  nature,  and 
desire  to  see 
granite  rocks  of 
astonishing  di- 
mensions, piled 
to  an  enormous 
height,  the  sea 
thundering  at 
their  bases, 

cresting  a  wild 
shore  of  ada- 
mant, should 
not  omit  visiting 


Castle  Treryn. 
The  annexed 
view      exhibits 

some  of  the  rocks  of  this  noble  headland ;  the  fissure  in  the  centre  leads  to 
another  and  smaller  group,  on  which,  by  clambering  a  fearful  height  at  one  of 
the  angles,  the  Logan  Stone,  which  stands  upon  the  summit,  is  rocked.  We 
have  never  seen  a  more  imposing  mass  of  granitic  rock,  or  a  more  striking 
object  of  savage  magnificence. 


182 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


Close  to  these  rocks  we  saw  growing  plentifully  the  common  thrift ;  and 
the  wild  carrot,  orpine,  hairy  saxifrage,  and  sea  spleenwort. 

We  next  took  the  road  to  St.  Buryan,  passing  through  a  village  called  Treen  ; 
and  soon  descending  a  steep  hill,  and  then  ascending  another,  came  to  a  corn- 
field, on  the  left  hand  side  of  the  road,  in  which  we  saw  a  granite  stone  about 
ten  feet  high,  unhewn ;  and  a  second  prostrate  at  no  great  distance  from  it, — 
memorials  no  doubt  of  a  mortuary  character.  We  soon  after  entered  St.  Bu- 
rian,  consisting  of  only  a  few  cottages.  The  church  was  founded  by  Athelstan, 
in  the  year  930,  when  he  made  Cornwall  tributary,  and  removed  its  boundary 
from  the  Ex  to  the  Tamar.  St.  Buryan  once  had  a  dean  and  three  preben- 
daries, was  a  college  of  Augustine  brothers ;  and  was  anciently  visited  as  a 
peculiar  by  the  Chancellor  of  England.  The  churches  of  Sennen  and  St.  Levan 
belong  to  it,  being  one  of  those  abused  church  livings  allowed  to  be  tenable 
at  all  distances,  and  with  all  other  preferments.  The  three  parishes  are  held 
by  one  incumbent,  whose  income  from  them  is  1,012/.  a  year;  and  they  are 
supplied  by  two  curates,  the  incumbent  having  besides  the  rectory  of  Catton 
and  the  vicarage  of  Wresale,  in  Yorkshire.  This  church  is  a  handsome  edifice ; 
stands  on  high  ground;  and,  possess- 
ing a  lofty  tower,  is  conspicuous  for 
a  great  distance  round,  but  the  inte- 
rior has  been  much  altered  for  the 
worse  by  the  parishioners.  Some 
have  said  that  Tresillian,  the  Chief 
Justice,  came  from  this  parish,  and 
not  from  Tresillian,  near  Truro ;  the 
matter  can  hardly  be  worthy  of  con- 
tention, Avhen  the  man's  character  is  justly  estimated.  There  is  an  inscription 
here  to  the  memory  of  the  wife  of  Geoffrey  de  Bolleit,  of  considerable  anti- 
quity ;  and  a  singular  cross,  seen  above,  stands  opposite  the  gate  of  the 
church-yard. 

In  a  place  called  Bolleit,  in  this  parish,  once  belonging  to  the  Bolleit  family, 
there  are  nineteen  upright  stones  in  a  circle,  called  the  "  Merry  Maidens,"  be- 
cause they  are  said  to  have  been  turned  into  stone  for  dancing  upon  a  Sunday ; 
and  hence  the  Cornish  name  of  Dans  mean,  or  the  "  stone  dancers."  These 
stones  are  four 
or  five  feet  high, 
and  the  circle  is 
about  twenty-  ■ 
five  feet  in  di- 
ameter.      Two 


lar^e 


upng 


ht 


stones,  called  the  Pipers,  stand  in  a  field  at  no  great  distance  off.     Another 
circle  of  the  same  kind  as  the  above,  and  with  the  same  number  of  stones,  but 


CORNWALL.  183 

having  an  inclined  stone  in  the  centre,  is  at  Boscawen,  two  or  three  miles 
distant.  There  are  several  other  circles  of  nineteen  stones  in  the  hundred  of 
Penwith. 

The  next  place  we  reached  was  called  Troove,  not  far  from  which  is  a  plea- 
sant cove  on  the  sea  shore.  The  church  of  Paul  parish,  is  bordered  by  the 
sea  on  one  side,  and  touches  on  the  other  upon  that  of  Sancreed,  in  which  we 
believe,  from  hearsay,  nothing  remarkable  exists ;  we  did  not  enter  its  borders. 
It  has  been  a  question  who  the  patron  saint  of  Paul  is,  for  all  deny  the  name 
being  adopted  from  the  great  Apostle  of  the  Gentiles.*  It  stands  near  the 
brow  of  a  lofty  hill ;  the  body  of  the  church  inland,  and  below  the  hill-brow, 
so  that  its  tower  only  is  seen  on  the  eastern  side.  This  church  was  burned, 
together  with  the  little  fishing  towns  of  Mousehole  and  Newly n,  in  1595,  by 
a  body  of  Spaniards,  f  There  are  entries  of  persons  killed  on  that  occasion  ; 
and  the  cannon-ball  by  which  one  of  them,  a  Mr.  Keigwin,  fell  is  still  pre- 
served. Mousehole  is  a  large  fishing  village,  on  the  western  side  of  Mount's  Bay, 
once  called  Port  Enys,  two  miles  south-west  from  Penzance ;  and  Newlyn,  a 
little  larger,  is  also  a  fishing  village,  nearer  that  town.  There  are  some  noble 
views  on  the  hills  near  Newlyn,  from  whence  a  road  by  the  sea  leads  into 
Penzance.  A  piece  of  gold,  in  the  shape  of  a  crescent,  was  found  near  this 
place,  weighing  between  two  and  three  ounces,  supposed  to  be  a  torque,  an 
ornament  worn  by  distinguished  persons  among  the  ancient  Britons. 

Returning  for  some  distance  along  the  road  from  Penzance  to  Marazion,  we 
struck  off  upon  the  left,  and  proceeded  on  our  way  to  St.  Ives.  From  the  road 
we  saw  again  the  church  of  Ludgvan,  lying  up  an  ascent  on  the  left  hand ; 
and  soon  after  passed  near  an  embankment  that  carries  the  causeway  to  Heyle  ; 
and  afterwards  a  group  of  cottages  at  Lelant,  in  the  gardens  of  which  the 
fuchsia  and  the  hydrangia  seemed  to  flourish  with  wonderful  luxuriance.  We 
then  came  in  sight  of  the  sea,  on  the  northern  side  of  the  county,  where  it 
forms  a  noble  bay,  terminated  eastward  by  Godrevy  Island,  and  westward  by 
the  headland  on  the  isthmus  ;  connecting  which  with  the  main  land  stands  the 
town  of  St.  Ives.  A  part  of  this  bay,  with  the  town,  has  been  already  given  in 
an  engraving4  and  is  one  of  the  most  beautifully  curved  shore-scenes  we  ever 

*  In  the  Taxatio  of  Pope  Nicholas,  1291,  we  observe  its  entry,  "  Ecclia  Scl  Paulini,  valued  at 
9/.  6s.  8d."  This  Saint  Paulinus  died  on  the  10th  of  October,  644,  Bishop  of  Rochester ;  and  was  not 
St.  Paul  de  Leon,  as  Mr.  D.  Gilbert  supposes,  since  he  died  in  the  month  of  March. 

t  The  Spaniards  met  with  no  resistance  from  the  inhabitants,  who  are  said  to  have  been  panic- 
stricken,  in  consequence  of  a  ridiculous  prophecy  current  prior  to  the  event,  if  the  statements  subse- 
quently made  are  correct.  Sir  Francis  Godolphin  could  not  inspire  the  inhabitants  with  courage  to 
resist  a  mere  handful  of  Spaniards,  not  more  than  two  hundred.  In  this  church  is  the  following 
inscription,  bordering  upon  a  bull,  "The  Spanyer  burnt  this  church  in  the  year  1595."  The 
prophecy  here  alluded  to  was  that — 

"  Strangers  should  land  upon  the  rock  of  Merlin, 
Who  should  burn  Paul,  Penzance,  and  Newlyn." 
There  is  a  rock  on  the  same  side  of  Mount's  Bay,  called  Merlin. 

|  Page  5. 


184  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

saw, — the  sea  so  fine,  and  the  large  expanse  of  sand  stainless  and  free  from 
rock,  and  this  sand  a  fine  yellow.  There  was  once  a  lighthouse  on  the  summit 
of  the  little  hill  over  the  town,  which  last  has  a  large  handsome  well-built 
church  with  a  lofty  tower,  and  several  dissenting  chapels.  This  church  is  the 
daughter  to  that  of  Euny-Lelant.  St.  Ives  is  but  a  populous  fishing  place,  with 
two  or  three  mines  in  the  vicinity ;  and  a  little  distance  above  it  is  a  monument 
erected  by  a  Mr.  Knill,  who  left  a  sum  of  money  to  be  expended  in  portioning 
out  young  women,  in  marriage,  every  five  years,  upon  which  occasion  a  certain 
procession  takes  place  there.  Tregenna  Castle,  the  seat  of  Mr.  Stephens,  built 
in  1774,  occupies  a  lofty  eminence  not  far  from  the  town,  and  commands  a 
noble  prospect ;  and  the  Heyle  river  empties  itself  into  the  bay  at  the  opposite 
end,  which  is  encumbered  with  blown  sands.  The  pilchard  fishery,  already 
described,  is  extensively  followed  here ;  the  fishermen  preserve  their  nets 
by  steeping  them  in  a  strong  decoction  of  oak  bark,  it  being  a  singular  fact 
that  the  oil  of  the  pilchard  would  otherwise  destroy  them  in  a  short  time. 
The  town,  chartered  as  a  corporation  by  Charles  I.,  returns  one  member  to 
parliament,  under  the  Reform  Act,  in  place  of  two,  which  it  returned  before 
from  the  fifth  year  of  queen  Mary ;  its  name  is  said  to  be  derived  from 
an  Irish  saintess,  who,  about  460,  contrived  to  land  here  from  Ireland, 
we  know  not  by  what  conveyance.  Smeaton,  the  engineer,  who  built  the 
Eddystone  Lighthouse,  erected  the  pier  in  1767.  During  the  American  war, 
when  the  ministry,  to  use  an  expressive  phrase  of  Lord  Chatham's,  hunted 
the  "  shambles  of  every  German  despot"  for  the  hire  of  men  to  employ  in 
coercing  America  to  submit  to  be  taxed  without  her  own  consent,  the  Elector 
of  Hesse  Cassel  lent  out  his  serfs,  to  receive  so  much  a-head  in  return  for  the 
killed,  wounded,  or  missing.  A  number  of  these  embarked  from  New  York, 
then  an  English  garrison,  to  proceed  along  the  coast  to  the  attack  of 
Charleston,  when  they  were  so  injured  by  a  ship  running  foul  of  them,  that, 
short  of  provisions  as  they  were,  they  drifted  unmanageable  all  the  way  over 
the  Atlantic,  before  the  wind,  which  blew  strong  from  the  westward,  to 
St.  Ives  Bay,  where  they  arrived  half  starved.  The  inhabitants  kindly 
sympathized  with  their  situation,  and  relieved  their  wants,  not  less  impelled  by 
pity  for  their  sufferings,  than  indignation,  at  the  reflection  that  these  poor 
foreigners  were  not  volunteers,  but  men  who  had  been  coerced  by  a  despot  to 
risk  life  and  limb  for  his  private  gain. 

Returning  a  mile  or  two  along  the  road  we  had  before  gone  over  coming 
from  Penzance,  parallel  with  St.  Ives  Bay,  we  passed  the  church  of  Euny- 
Lelant,  to  which  that  of  St.  Ives  and  Towednack  are  daughters.  It  stands  on 
a  point  formed  by  the  sands  thrown  up  from  the  sea,  having  on  one  side  the 
mouth  of  the  Heyle  river,  and  the  sea  on  the  other.  The  sand-drifts  here  con- 
sist of  shell-sand ;  and  in  times  past  accumulated  in  amazing  quantities.  There 
is  nothing  worthy  of  notice  about  this  edifice,  nor  the  church-town,  dubbed  "  the 
town,"  by  way  of  distinction  ;  but  a  seat  of  Mr.  Mackworth  Pracd,   called 


CORNWALL.  185 

Trevethow,  stands  near,  in  which  there  are  very  thriving  plantations,  secured 
from  the  west  winds  by  a  belt  of  the  pineaster,  which  shelters  the  young  trees 
effectually  until  they  are  themselves  strong  enough  to  resist  the  fury  of 
the  blast. 

The  Kiver  Heyle  rises  near  Crowan,  flowing  for  three  miles  on  the  ocean  • 
level,  through  sands,  before  it  reaches  St.  Ives  Bay,  above  which  it  passes 
near  St.  Erth  church,  a  very  plain  old  structure,  having  three  aisles  of  an 
equal  size.  The  bridge  here,  consisting  originally  of  three  arches,  is  five 
hundred  years  old ;  a  fourth  arch  was  added,  and  the  roadway  improved,  prin- 
cipally at  the  expense  of  the  late  Mr.  Davies  Gilbert,  whose  seat  of  Tredrea  is 
in  this  parish.  A  small  sum  of  money  was  left  by  the  Rev.  J.  Ralph  for 
founding  a  free  school  here. 

Heyle,  once  renowned  for  its  copper  smelting,  which  has  been  abandoned, 
now  possesses  iron  works  in  which  the  largest  steam  engines  are  manufactured, 
with  a  degree  of  good  workmanship  equal  to  that  in  any  other  place  of  the  like 
manufacture  in  England.  It  stands  on  a  flat,  amid  extensive  sands,  which 
stretch,  with  a  few  exceptions,  all  along  this  coast  to  Padstow  ;  and  some  of 
the  sand-hills,  or  "  towans,"  rise  to  an  elevation  of  sixty  feet,  walls,  inclo- 
sures,  and  parts  of  houses  sometimes  reappearing  from  under  them.  There  is 
a  large  dam  here  for  scouring  the  sand  out  of  the  harbour.  Heyle  is  a 
populous  place,  boasts  an  excellent  hotel,  and  carries  on  a  considerable  coast- 
ing trade,  standing  in  the  parish  of  Phillack ;  the  old  copper  works  being  at 
the  east  end,  and  the  iron  works  at  the  west.  The  church  of  Phillack  is 
small,  with  a  granite  tower,  built  among  hillocks  of  sand;  in  1825  a  cause- 
Avay  was  made  over  the  river  here,  which  we  crossed.  The  roads  were  thus 
carried  above  the  influence  of  the  tides,  to  which  they  wrere  before  liable. 
There  are  copper  mines  in  Gwithian  and  Gwinear  parishes,  the  last  bordering 
upon  the  metalliferous  district  of  Camborne,  like  that  parish  abounds  in  mines. 
Gwithian,  like  Phillack,  is  half  buried  in  sand.  One  inundation  is  spoken 
of  on  the  barton  of  Upton  as  happening  nearly  a  hundred  years  ago,  and  so 
suddenly  that  a  large  farm  was  overwhelmed,  and  the  farmer  and  his  family 
obliged  to  get  through  the  chamber  windows  to  make  their  escape.  In  1808 
a  shifting  of  the  sands  took  place,  and  disclosed  the  farm-house  buried  for 
nearly  a  century.  Two  fields  are  now  covered  twelve  feet  deep  that  a  few 
years  ago  were  clear ;  and  the  church-town  would  have  been  lost  but  for  the 
inhabitants  planting  rushes.  These  sands,  entirely  calcareous,  would  make 
excellent  lime ;  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  county  they  are  siliceous. 

The  parish  which  borders  upon  the  sea,  east  of  Gwithian,  is  Illogan,  having 
upon  the  east  that  of  St.  Agnes,  both  belonging  to  the  great  mining  districts. 
Perranzabulo,*  of  which  wre  have  already  made  mention,  lies  eastward  of 
St.  Agnes.  The  coast  in  both  these  parishes  consists  generally  of  very  bold 
cliffs,  here  and  there  broken  by  sandy  coves  called  "  Porths  "  by  the  Cornish, 
*  Or  Perranzabulon ;  it  is  written  both  ways  in  the  county. 

B  B 


186  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTUUY. 

many  of  which  are  highly  romantic,  sometimes  grand,  and  always  wild,  rocky, 
and  precipitous.  About  St.  Agnes's  Head  the  cliffs  are  of  great  height,  gene- 
rally perpendicular ;  and  in  their  dark  sides  may  be  seen  veins  of  metallic  ores, 
some  in  progress  of  working.  The  bordering  parishes  of  Camborne,  Redruth, 
and  Gwennap,  include,  with  these  two,  the  greater  mining  field  of  Cornwall. 
Along  this  northern  shore,  in  the  parish  of  Illogan,  is  a  porth,  of  which  a  very 
eligible  little  port  has  been  made,  called  Portreath,  accessible  to  colliers  and 
vessels  from  Wales,  connected  with  the  mines  by  a  railway,  to  which  it  affords 
manifold  conveniences,  being  upon  a  shore  more  remarkable  for  shipwrecks 
than  for  anything  else  in  the  local  history  of  the  county.  Here  it  may  be 
proper  to  notice  the  charge  made  against  the  Cornish  of  being  plunderers  at 
shipwrecks,  and  of  behaving  with  barbarity  to  the  sufferers  on  these  occasions ; 
the  last  charge  not  very  likely  to  be  grounded  in  truth,  where  so  large  a  pro- 
portion of  the  population  is  connected  with  the  sea,  the  effect  of  which  must  be 
a  sympathy  irresistible  in  urging  a  reverse  conduct. 

Before  the  care  of  coasting  vessels  was  confided  to  a  race  of  men  of  the 
existing  experience  and  talent,  the  wrecks  along  this  part  of  the  coast  used  to 
be  frequent ;  and  they  were  the  more  frightful,  because  it  was  rarely  the  case 
that  a  solitary  individual  survived  to  relate  from  what  port  the  vessel  came, 
and  whither  it  was  bound.  Within  the  last  thirty  years,  these  disasters  have 
been  fewer,  and  occurred  only  when  storms  of  great  violence  came  on  suddenly, 
or  through  the  mistake  of  one  headland  for  another  in  misty  weather.  But 
though  coasting  vessels  were  those  which  were  once  most  frequently  lost  upon 
this  iron  shore,  the  long  continuance  of  westerly  winds,  and  errors  in  reckoning, 
caused  many  a  disaster  to  foreign  ships  of  burthen,  as  well  as  to  those  of  our 
own  country ;  and  in  general  no  more  was  known  of  any  ship  cast  away  here, 
or  of  her  crew,  than  the  cargo  and  fragments,  strewed  over  miles  of  the  shore 
at  low  water,  might  indicate.  No  ship  could  hold  together  an  hour,  in  a  gale 
on  this  fearful  coast,  unless  flung  upon  some  very  favourable  spot  at  high  tide. 
Such  spots  are  few ;  the  sea  breaks,  for  the  most  part,  against  precipices  of  great 
height.  One  vessel,  of  which  we  saw  some  relics,  was  never  seen  entire : 
neither  her  name,  nation,  nor  the  fate  of  her  crew,  was  ascertained.  She  had 
been  lost,  it  was  supposed,  late  in  the  night ;  for  on  the  preceding  evening,  at 
sunset,  no  sail  Avas  seen  in  the  horizon  with  a  telescope.  It  was  blowing  fresh  ; 
and  in  the  morning  some  planks  were  found,  and  foreign  kegs  of  butter,  which, 
with  other  circumstances,  led  the  people  to  believe  that  the  property  must 
have  been  Dutch ;  no  bodies,  no  clothes,  no  portions  of  the  masts  or  rigging 
were  stranded ;  the  spot  where  the  shipwreck  occurred  was  only  guessed  at  by 
a  few  fragments  of  the  rib  timbers  being  discovered  jammed  among  the  rocks ; 
all  besides  had  been  taken  into  the  fathomless  deep.  In  one  case,  a  New- 
foundland dog  was  the  sole  survivor  of  a  ship's  living  cargo ;  in  another,  a 
black  man  reached  the  shore  through  the  surf,  but  died  before  he  could  tell 
the  name  of  the  vessel  to  which  he  belonged. 


(ORXWAIX. 


Nothing  can  be  more  untrue  than  the  charge  of  Cornish  barbarity,  since  in 
no  part  of  England  shipwrecked  persons  meet  with  greater  kindness ;  though 
it  is  but  seldom  that  this  kindness  can  be  put  to  the  test  by  the  escape  of  any 
animated  being  to  experience  it.     On  the  wreck  of  the  Anson  frigate,  thirty 
years  ago,  not  only  were  the  survivors  most  kindly  treated,  but  the  efforts 
made  to  assist  in  the  escape  of  the  crew  were  all  which  were  possible  in  such 
a  dreadful  scene.     One  individual,  whose  name  is  to  us  unknown,  or  we  would 
print  it, — one  whose  name  deserves  to  be  remembered  far  before  the  destroyers 
of  their  species,  of  whom  national  immorality  makes  its  molten  gods, — came 
down  to  the  spot.     The  frigate  lay  with  her  bottom  seawards,  and  the  waves 
rolled  over  her,  and  fell  in  "  horrible  cascade  "  on  the  shore  side,  and  up  the 
sandy  beach,  carrying  the  living  and  the  dead  with  them,  and  upon  the  recoil 
bearing  them  back  into  the  ocean  depths.     The  only  assistance  that  could  be 
given  was  by  venturing  as  far  as  possible  into  the  surf,  and  snatching  the  half- 
drowned  that  could  be  reached  out  of  it, — an  effort  not  to  be  made  at  such 
times  without  much  hazard.     The  individual  to  whom  we  allude  was  a  metho- 
dist  teacher,  a  humble  man,  who  had  come  down  on  horseback  to  the  spot. 
He  rode  intrepidly  into  the  foam,  and  succeeded  in  getting  hold  of  two  of  the 
crew,  one  after  the  other,  whom  he  saved ;  but  on  venturing  the  third  time 
into  the  raging  surf,  as  he  was  grasping  at  another,  a  wave  swept  both  horse 
and  rider  away,  in  the  presence  of  hundreds  of  persons  who  could  render  no 
assistance;   and  this  man,  to  us  nameless,  found  in  this  way  the  proudest  death 
and  interment  that  is  destined  for  humanity, — losing  his  life  in  the  act  of 
trying  to  save  a  fellow-creature  from  destruction,  and  having  the  bosom  of  the 
ocean  for  his  sepulchre. 

The  charge  of  want  of  hospitality  or  kindness  in  the  Cornish  to  shipwrecked 
persons,  then,  is  not  true.  We  have  said  that  vessels  break  up  almost  as  soon 
as  they  touch  the  shore,  which  for  miles  is  strewed  with  portions  of  the  cargo 
and  timbers.  These  the  country  people  pick  up,  and  the  finder  too  often  appro- 
priates. It  is  from  this  circumstance  that  the  Cornish  have  been  accused  of 
barbarity  and  wreck-plundering ;  the  vulgar  had  a  notion  formerly  that  the  pro- 
perty saved  from  shipwreck  belonged  to  any  one  who  was  on  board  that  survived, 
and  if  no  one  survived,  to  any  body  who  might  pick  it  up  from  the  beach. 
They  were  taught  by  a  claim  of  some  lord  of  the  manor  in  former  time,* 
one  no  more  just  than  their  own,  that  the  ship  and  cargo  were  not  the  property 
of  the  owners ;  and  they  thought  what  they  secured,  with  labour,  floating 
upon  the  sea,  or  strewed  upon  the  rocks,  sometimes  on  their  own  land,  they 

*  These  claims  of  lords  of  manors  over  lands  or  property  not  their  own,  ought  in  many  existing 
cases  to  be  abolished.  A  man  may  not  exercise  certain  rights  upon  his  own  fee  simple,  -where  the 
lord  of  the  manor,  who  claims  such  rights,  cannot  come  to  exercise  them  -without  trespass !  Many  of 
these  rights  are  manifestly  wrongs,  relics  of  degraded  barbarian  times,  which  no  man  may  resist,  says 
the  wisdom  of  that  jumble  of  absurdity  called  common  law.  But  the  lord  may  refrain  from  claiming, 
leaving  the  party  on  whom  the  exercise  of  the  right  might  take  place  in  a  state  of  merciful  tolerance 
from  its  operation.    Some  manorial  claims,  carried  into  legal  exercise,  Mould  involve  murder  ; — we  be- 


188  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

might  appropriate  as  justly  as  a  claimant  under  feudal  usages.  The  right  of 
the  owners,  acknowledged  by  reason  and  justice,  has,  in  the  present  time,  its 
due  effect  to  a  considerable  extent,  and  will  no  doubt  be  fully  established ;  but 
a  salvage  allowance  will  be  politic ;  for  otherwise  little  will  be  saved  where  the 
property  is  sometimes  found  strewed  along  miles  of  coast,  the  sea  beating  it 
about,  and  the  security  of  it  only  possible  to  be  effected  at  the  moment  it  is 
discovered.  The  plunder  of  wrecked  goods  in  this  way,  then,  was  a  strife 
between  two  parties,  who  had  neither  of  them  any  right  to  it.  Wrecks  hap- 
pening below  high-water  mark,  and  goods  washed  on  shore  so  found,  were, 
more  properly,  the  right  of  the  public,  by  a  private  wrong,  as  a  droit  of 
admiralty,  if  the  owners  were  to  be  plundered  of  their  property  at  all.  To 
the  claim  of  the  lords  of  manors  who  had  grants  of  "  the  royalties  of  wrecks," 
Pope  alludes  in  the  lines : — 

"  Then  full  against  his  Cornish  lands  they  roar, 
And  two  rich  shipwrecks  bless  the  lucky  shore." 

When  an  example  of  this  sort  of  plunder  was  anciently  set  by  the  lord,  it 
was  no  wonder  if  the  serf  availed  himself  of  the  same  immorality,  standing 
more  in  need  of  its  2>roduce.  It  is  in  vain  that  custom,  or  right,  or  authority 
can  be  pleaded  to  justify  practices  that,  whether  emanating  from  the  prince  or 
the  subject,  admit  of  justification  by  no  code  of  equity,  no  moral  principle, 
nothing  except  the  lawyer-made  law,  that  sanctions  what  is  wrong  on  the 
side  of  power,  because  it  is  a  wrong  of  long  standing ;  here  we  see  its  effect. 

The  humbler  classes  in  Cornwall  were  much  softened  and  mdlized  by  the 
preaching  of  Wesley  and  his  followers ;  the  miners,  even  on  the  wilder  coasts, 
are  a  very  kind  and  civil  body  of  men,  though,  at  the  same  time,  none  are  more 
sensible  of  an  indignity  offered  to  them.  We  must  not  confound  them  with 
those  who  work  under-ground  in  the  coal  counties,  and  their  brutal  habits ; 
even  the  men  in  the  metallic  mines  in  the  north  of  England  were  once  con- 
trasted to  us  by  a  gentleman  there,  with  a  few  Cornish  men  he  had  in  his 
employ,  to  the  disadvantage  of  the  northerns.  Every  day  the  Cornish  men 
shifted  their  clothes  after  labour,  and  washed  themselves;  but  not  so  their 
fellow-workmen,  with  whom  ablution  was  rare,  and  they  had  seldom  clothes  to 
change.  In  manner  too  they  were  milder,  and  better  behaved.  A  century 
ago  it  Avas  a  different  thing ;  they  did  not  then,  according  to  report,  want  bad 
examples  ;  in  the  superstitious  days,  when  the  clergyman  of  the  parish  had  his 
familiar  spirit,  according  to  vulgar  belief,  the  plunder  of  wrecks  might  have 
been  made  a  charge  with  greater  justice. 

lieve  one  manorial  custom  is  still  as  much  a  right  as  others  that  are  exercised  in  many  places,  and  is 
justified  by  the  same  law,  and  as  fully,  in  that  sense,  "legal,"  as  many  others  ;  though  statute  law  would 
be  apt  to  interfere  with  the  neck  of  the  lord  of  the  manor,  afterwards,  if  he  dared  to  take  that  which 
common  law  justifies  in  cases  defensible  on  the  same  ground  alone.  We  might  allude  to  a  manorial 
right  once  exercised  on  the  marriage  of  tenantry,  and  which,  as  a  manorial  right,  is  still  justifiable,  if 
the  lord  will  risk  another  law,  under  which  he  who  exercises  his  "right"  to  do  wrong  would  infallibly 
be  brought  into  no  very  lordly  plight. 


CORNWALL.  189 

In  those  days,  wreck  picked  up  from  the  sea-shore  was  styled  "a  godsend." 
The  well-known  story  of  "  A  wreck !  a  wreck !"  being  cried  at  the  church- 
door,  and  the  parson  with  difficulty  restraining  the  people  a  moment,  on  some 
excuse,  until  he  got  down  from  the  pulpit  himself  into  the  aisle,  and  then  said, 
"  My  good  friends,  let  us  all  start  fair,"  might  be  true  enough  if  we  believed 
that  an  educated  man  even  in  the  "  good  old  times  "  could  be  guilty  of  such  an 
indecency.  It  is  true,  we  were  told,  and  have  no  reason  to  doubt  the  correct- 
ness of  our  information,  that  in  those  days  an  individual  who  had  been  well 
educated,  and  did  not  Avant  the  good  things  of  this  life,  but  who  was  a 
drunkard,  and  in  every  respect  a  highly  immoral  man,  once  tied  up  the  leg  of 
an  ass  at  night,  and  hanging  a  lanthorn  from  its  neck,  drove  it  himself  along 
the  summit  of  the  high  cliffs  on  that  part  of  the  northern  coast  where  he 
lived,  in  order  that  the  halting  motion  of  the  animal  might  imitate  the  plung- 
ing of  a  vessel  under  sail,  and  thus  tempt  ships  to  run  in,  from  imagining  there 
was  sea-room,  where  destruction  was  inevitable.  The  same  individual  was 
accused  of  having  cut  the  fingers  off  the  dead  body  of  a  lady  which  was  washed 
on  shore  from  a  wreck,  to  secure  the  rings  which  decorated  them.  The  very 
rumour  now  that  any  man  had  been  guilty  of  such  an  atrocity,  would  expel  him 
from  society  in  Cornwall,  and  from  the  county  itself;  but  for  such  instances  of 
inhumanity,  on  the  part  of  any  class,  whatever  might  have  happened  a  cen- 
tury or  two  ago,  there  is  not  the  remotest  foundation  in  modern  times. 

We  cannot  avoid  mentioning  here,  as  being,  in  some  degree,  connected  with 
the  appearance  of  what  people  call  a  death-ship,  on  one  part  of  this  coast,  the 
result  of  an  inquiry  we  made  upon  the  subject.  Our  informant  had  lived 
there  all  his  days,  and  told  us  that  in  his  father's  boyhood  there  was  a  person 
resided  in  the  village  of  T who  was  distinguished  for  his  oppressive  con- 
duct, his  private  vices,  and  the  possession  of  property  which  was  acquired  by 
sinister  means.     In  our  informant's  words, — 

"  He  was  a  man  well  off  in  the  parish;  but  that  was  nothing  to  him." 

"  Did  you  know  him?" 

"  No ;  it  was  in  my  father's  youth  ;  but  he  declared  it  was  true,  and  he 
Avas  not  given  to  falsehood ;  it  is  fourscore  years  ago ;  his  name  Avas ." 

We  shall  not  mention  the  name,  as  some  of  his  descendants  may  be  alive,  if 
he  had  descendants,  and  proceed  to  what  our  informant  said  further. 

"  What  did  the  people  think  of  him?" 

"  I  can't  say,  because  it  Avas  before  I  Avas  born ;  but  the  death-ship  story 
pretty  avcII  explains  that,  I  should  think." 

''  The  death-ship,  what  Avas  that? 

"  Why,  Mr. ,  drunk  one  half  his  time,  and  given  to  all  kinds  of  bad 

conduct  Avhen  he  was  sober,  Avas  taken  very  ill  at  last,  yet  seemed  to  have  no 
care  about  his  condition;  and,  Avhen  he  could  use  his  tongue,  SAvore  and 
blasphemed  as  hard  as  ever.  Just  before  he  died  a  frightful  thing  occurred, 
which  leads  me  to  the  purport  of  your  question  about  the  death-ship." 


190  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

"  Well,  what  was  that;  he  plundered  one  wreck  too  many,  I  suppose?" 

"  No;  a  day  or  two  before  he  breathed  his  last,  a  party  of  men  were  work- 
ing near  the  toj)  of  the  cliffs,  where  they  were  several  hundred  feet  in  eleva- 
tion ;  the  weather  was  hazy  over  the  sea ;  when,  on  a  sudden,  one  of  them 
exclaimed,  '  Do  you  see  that ;  there  is  a  ship  close  in  with  the  shore.'  All  the 
party  saw  the  vessel  looming  through  the  haze,  tall,  dark,  and  square-rigged, 
but  they  could  observe  nothing  further,  as  it  disappeared  seawards  in  the  mist, 
and  quickly  vanished  from  their  sight.  There  was  no  wind,  and  the  impossi- 
bility of  navigating  without  it  struck  these  men,  so  that  it  became  a  subject  of 
conversation  in  the  church-town. 

"In  a  hollow,  at  the  foot  of  the  cliffs  before-mentioned,  there  was  a  consider- 
able space  of  sand,  dry  at  low  water,  and  some  persons  had  gone  thither  to 
collect  shell-fish  a  day  or  two  after  the  preceding  occurrence,  when  they  saw 
a  tall  dark  vessel  run  in  almost  close  without  a  breath  of  wind,  her  sails 
appearing  full,  and  of  a  deep  black  colour.  The  coast  abounded  in  sunken 
rocks,  among  which  she  seemed  to  thread  a  tortuous  course  without  touching 
one.  No  living  thing  was  upon  the  deck,  which  they  could  discern  from  stem 
to  stern ;  the  wheel  had  no  helmsman ;  no  seaman  was  on  the  look-out,  and 
none  hove  the  lead ;  at  which  sight  the  observers  felt  a  thrill,  as  if  it  was 
something,  they  knew  not  what,  out  of  the  ordinary  course  of  things,  particu- 
larly as,  at  the  same  moment,  it  lay-to  and  the  sails  began  to  shiver.  Thus 
riveted  to  the  spot  by  a  sensation  which  they  found  it  impossible  to  describe, 
the  sails  again  filled,  and  the  ship  appeared  to  glide  away  until  it  was  reduced 
to  a  mere  speck,  and  disappeared  in  an  instant,  apparently  at  the  distance 
of  leagues,  much  as  the  figures  of  a  magic  lanthorn  glide  along  a  whitened 
wall.  Some  thought,  for  the  moment,  it  was  a  deception  of  their  sight,  and 
rubbed  their  eyes;  for  the  whole  appearance  did  not  occupy  any  perceptible 
duration  of  time,  and  yet  there  was  time  enough  for  the  strange  object  to  fix 
their  attention,  and  allow  them  the  most  perfect  examination  of  her  form  and 
tenantless  deck.  After  looking  for  some  minutes  at  the  broad  expanse  of  sea 
before  them,  upon  which,  to  the  remotest  point  of  the  horizon,  not  one  solitary 
sail  appeared,  they  hastened  to  the  church-town,  eager  to  communicate  what 
they  had  just  seen,  when  the  first  news  they  heard  was  that  the  well-known 
and  notorious  Mr. had  just  expired." 

The  parish  of  Illogan,  the  larger  portion  of  which  is  an  uncultivated  tract, 
is  principally  noted  for  its  copper  mines :  most  of  the  land  belonging  to  the 
family  of  Basset,  long  settled  here,  and  supposed  to  be  descendants  of  some 
of  the  Bassets  that  came  over  with  the  Normans,  though  not  connected  with 
the  branch  from  whence  came  the  Lords  Basset  of  Drayton,  of  Weldon,  and 
Sapcoate,  all  of  which  were  extinct,  in  the  male  line,  some  centuries  ago. 
The  seat  of  Lord  de  Dunstanville,  lately  deceased,  called  Tehidy,  in  this 
parish,  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Basset  family  by  the  marriage  of  an 
ancestor  with  an  heiress  of  the  family  of  De  Dunstanville,  to  which  family,  in 


CORNWALL.  191 

1100,  the  manor  belonged.  Tehidy  is  a  modern  house,  no  way  remarkable 
either  architecturally  or  by  position.  It  stands  about  four  miles  from  Redruth, 
surrounded  by  plantations,  which  afford  an  agreeable  contrast  to  the  barren- 
ness of  the  country  round.  The  park  and  grounds  occupy  about  seven 
hundred  acres;  and  the  plantations,  of  which  due  care  is  taken  at  the  first 
planting,  thrive  with  great  luxuriance ;  the  oak,  beech,  chestnut,  and  syca- 
more are  found  to  answer  best,  and  firs  and  laurels  do  equally  well. 

In  this  parish  is  the  celebrated  hill,  which  Dr.  Borlase  believed  to  be  the  seat 
of  the  Druids,  called  Carn  Bre,  and  about  which  the  same  antiquary  is  enthu- 
siastic in  his  imaginary  discovery  of  extensive  Druidical  remains,  but  which 
others  cannot  see  with  the  same  faith  as  this  amiable  and  learned  writer.  We 
examined  the  hill  from  end  to  end,  and  saw  nothing  among  the  rocks  scattered 
over  its  ridge  that  is  not  greatly  surpassed  by  the  rocks  about  St.  Cleer  and 
Linkinhorne  already  described.  The  view  from  the  summit  is  exceedingly 
fine,  but  commanding  a  country  of  little  pretension  to  fertility  or  beauty  of 
scenery,  though  of  great  extent,  including  the  two  seas  as  a  boundary,  and  on 
the  west  Mount  St.  Michael,  which  forms  a  distant  object,  while  the  nume- 
rous mines  that  spread  over  the  land  below,  and,  above  all,  the  amazing 
populousncss,  indicated  by  the  numberless  cottages  dotting  the  soil  every- 
where beneath,  present  a  lively  scene  of  industry  rather  than  of  picturesque 
attraction. 

We  ascended  Carn  Bre  at  the  eastern  end,  just  opposite  Redruth  church, 
and  found  the  road  sufficiently  steep — no  wider  than  a  horse  path;  and,  both  on 
the  right  and  left,  perforated  by  small  holes,  opened  in  search  of  the  heads  of 
veins  of  ore,  called  "  lodes"  in  the  miner's  phraseology.  Heath  and  wild  flowers 
grew  in  great  profusion ;  and  huge  rocks  of  granite  here  and  there  broke  out 
of  the  soil  in  every  shape  and  variety  of  form.  The  summit  at  the  eastern 
end  is  crowned  with  what  a  little  while  ago  was  a  ruined  castle,  one  portion  of 
which  was  roofed,  and  fitted  up  as  a  summer-house;  the  view  from  the  windows 
being  extensive.  This  edifice  was  erected  upon  several  large  granite  rocks, 
which,  in  some  places,  being  considerably  apart,  were  united  by  throwing 
arches  over  from  one  to  another.  Recently  this  fine  relic  of  antiquity  has 
been  daubed  over  with  plaistcr,  and  robbed  of  all  interest ;  being  battlementcd 
like  a  garden-house,  wretched  chimneys  stuck  above  all,  and,  so  deformed, 
it  has  become  tenanted.  The  defacement  which  has  thus  taken  place  renders  it 
almost  ludicrous,  especially  on  the  site  which  it  occupies,  being  neither  castle 
nor  dwelling, — "  neither  fish,  flesh,  nor  pickled  herring."  We  here  subjoin  a 
view  of  this  castle  before  some  blockhead  was  thus  suffered  to  mutilate  and 
deface  it. 

Borlase  imagines  Carn  Bre  Castle  to  have  been  a  work  of  the  ancient 
Britons;  and  does  not  hesitate  to  connect  it  with  the  numerous  Druidical 
remains  which  he  thought  he  had  discovered  upon  it.  Here  are  the  hollow 
stones,    which   he    called  rock  basins,   used  in  the  rites  of  Druid  worship ; 


192 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


but  which  very  plainly,  both  from  situation  and  magnitude,  from  the  want 

of  adaptation  to  the  object  for  which  he   thinks   them   once   appropriated, 

and  the  numbers  found  everywhere  in  similar  situations  in  Cornwall,  must 

be  taken  as  nothing  more 

than   hollows   caused   by 

the  disintegration  of  the 

stone  from  the  continued  ■:;■-_- 

action    of    the    weather. 

In  one  place  the  Doctor 

thought    he    saw    in    an 

arrangement  of  the  rocks 

perfectly  natural,  a  ''  Gor- 

seddan,"  as  he  styles  it, 

or  judgment  seat  of  Druid 

authority ;     here    was    a 

holy  boundary,  and  there 

a  sacred  circle ;    and  the 

Doctor  was  so  credulous 

as  to  think  he  had  found 

the  remnant  of  a  grove  of 

oaks, — oaks  that  shaded  Druidical  rites  2,000  years  ago ! 

That  Carn  Bre  may  have  been  an  ancient  military  station,  is,  from  its  height 
and  form,  exceedingly  probable ;  coins,  both  Roman  and  British,  have  been 
found  on  its  sides ;  there  are  remains  of  entrenchments  on  one  part  of  the 
summit ;  and  its  vast  field  of  view  gave  it  advantages  as  a  position  for  observ- 
ing the  country  that  could  not  but  strike  any  predominant  military  force  at 

that  time  occupying  the 
neighbourhood.  Of  the 
form  of  this  hill,  and  its 
abrupt  ascent,  a  judgment 
may  be  formed  from  the 
annexed  view  of  the 
eastern  end ;  the  church  in 
the  fore-ground  being  that 
of  Redruth. 

The  column  seen  on  a 
more  distant  part  of  the 
hill  is  one  erected  by  sub- 
scription to  the  late  Lord 
de  Dunstanville,  a  most 
amiable  man,  Avhose  punc- 
tual fulfilment  of  the  duties  of  life,  with  a  consideration  at  once  exhibiting  the 
union  of  a  good  heart,  a  native  kindness,  and  the  conduct  and  manners  of  a 


CORNWALL. 


193 


gentleman,  obtained  for  him  the  affection  and  respect  of  Cornislnnen  of  all 
classes.  We  were  sorry  to  see  such  bad  workmanship  in  a  monument,  of  the 
style  of  which  nothing  can  be  favourably  reported.  A  large  surface  at  the 
base  is  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  weather ;  and  the  joints  are  so  loosely  put 
together,  that,  on  the  slightest  shower,  the  water 
streams  through  them  into  an  arched  space,  which 
was  evidently  designed  to  be  kept  dry,  both  for 
better  securing  the  foundation  of  the  superstruc- 
ture, and  preserving  the  wooden  stairs  by  which 
an  ascent  may  be  made  some  Avay  up  a  fabric, 
which  can  neither  be  characterised  as  column 
nor  obelisk;  it  carries  the  following  inscrip- 
tion : — 


"  THE   COUNTY   OF   CORNWALL 
TO    THE    MEMORY   OF   FRANCIS,    LORD   DE    DUNSTANVILLE,    1836 


^w^***™ 


That  this  hill,  standing  in  a  peculiar  position,  and  being  visible  for  so  great 
a  distance,  should  not  have  had  some  connexion  with  superstition,  would  be 
singular  indeed.  A  rock  about  seven  feet  high  near  the  summit,  having 
five  perpendicular  indentations  that  divide  it  into  nearly  equal  parts,  is  called 
the  giant's  hand;  the  divisions  marking  the  fingers.  The  country  people  say 
that  the  body  lies  beneath  the  hill,  which  was  flung  upon  it,  and  the  hand, 
thus  protruded,  time  has  changed  into  stone.  The  singular  hill,  called 
St.  Agnes's  Beacon,  is  a  distant  object  from  this  spot ;  and  they  describe  the 
buried  Goliath  as  being  of  such  a  magnitude  as  to  be  able  to  stride  over  to  it  at 
one  step, — a  tale  that  so  surprised  an  honest  tailor  who  heard,  and  half  believed 
it,  that  he  professionally  expressed  his  astonishment,  by  asking  how  it  could 
be  possible  to  take  the  giant's  measure  for  a  waistcoat.  At  Carn  Bre,  too, 
Lucifer  and  the  saints,  including  those  who  sailed  over  from  Ireland  upon  mill- 
stones and  ox-hides  to  expel  the  father  of  evil  from  Cornwall,  are  traditionally 
reported  to  have  had  a  fearful  conflict,  in  which  the  victory  for  a  long  time 
was  dubious,  the  rocks  of  Carn  Bre  serving  for  Aveapons,  the  combat  terminating 
in  Satan's  withdrawing  from  the  conflict,  but  not  from  the  county,  from  which 
the  united  power  of  all  the  saints  has  never  yet  been  able  to  expel  him. 

In  this  parish  there  is  a  hill  abounding  in  tin,  called  Carn  Kye,  which  has 
been  worked  with  very  large  profit  both  to  the  adventurers  and  the  lord  of  the 
soil.   The  water  there  is  said  to  be  strongly  impregnated  with  mineral  substances. 

c  c 


194  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

Camborne  is  a  large  parish,  having  Illogan  on  the  south,  and  contains 
many  considerable  mines,  to  which  more  particular  allusion  will  presently  be 
made.  The  church-town  is  large  and  populous,  owing  its  consideration  to 
the  works  in  the  vicinity.  There  is  a  good  market-house  here ;  the  church* 
is  an  ancient  edifice,  in  which  are  several  memorials  of  the  family  of  Pendarves, 
whose  seat  is  in  this  parish,  bearing  the  same  name,  and  having  very  near  it 
the  monument  which  is  delineated  in  a  preceding  part  of  this  work,  called 
Caerwynen  Cromlech,  f  The  fine  old  font  once  in  this  church,  of  which  a 
cut  has  been  given  already,}  has  been  removed,  we  were  informed,  to  ornament 
the  gardens  of  Tehidy.  In  this  part  of  Cornwall,  as,  indeed,  throughout  the 
county  generally,  the  bodies  are  borne  at  funerals,  sometimes  for  several 
miles,  to  the  church,  "  underhand,"  as  it  is  termed,  and  not  on  the  shoulders 
of  the  bearers.  §  Along  the  heath-covered  and  rocky  hills,  and  through  the 
sweet  over-shadowed  lanes  of  the  ever-green  and  fertile  valleys  of  the  county, 
the  funeral  procession,  as  it  winds  its  way  to  the  "  house  appointed  for  all 
living,"  is  oftentimes  heard  to  break  forth  suddenly  in  a  melancholy  cadence, 
chanting  a  psalm  or  a  hymn  when  it  halts  on  the  way  to  the  church,  which  may 
be  several  miles  distant  from  the  dwelling  of  the  deceased ;  at  others  singing 
a  monotonous  dirge-like  psalm,  as  the  bearers  move  along  what  is  called  the 
leitch,  or  leech  path,  up  to  the  church,  ||  the  effect  of  which  is  exceedingly  impres- 
sive. To  such  an  incident  it  is  probable  that  a  living  poet  IT  of  this  county,  who 
does  so  much  honour  to  the  "  Rocky  Land  of  Strangers,"  where  he  resides, 
makes  allusion  in  the  following  lines,  Avhich  we  feel  great  pleasure  in  being 
enabled  to  present  to  our  readers.     It  is  entitled  "  The  Bearers'  Chant." 

"  Sing  !  from  the  chamber  to  the  grave  !" — 

Thus  did  the  dead  man  say  ; — 
"  A  sound  of  melody  I  crave 

Upon  my  burial  day ! 


*  We  noticed  the  following  epitaph  in  the  churchyard : — 

"  Ah  !  my  first  love,  thy  dust  in  quiet  lies ; 
No  sighs  disturb  thy  breast,  no  tears  thy  eyes  ; 
While  the  fond  partner  of  thy  nuptial  years 
Bewails  thy  loss  in  ceaseless  sighs  and  tears: 
He  fondly  rears  thy  orphan  charge  to  see 
And  sweetly  cherish  what  resembles  thee ! 
Accept,  dear  shade,  the  last  I  can  bestow, 
This  mark  of  friendship,  and  this  tale  of  woe, 
Till  my  frail  dust  shall  humbly  mix  with  thine, 
And  both  our  spirits  meet  in  realms  divine." 
t  See  page  173.  J  See  page  103. 

§  Napkins  are  passed  through  the  handles,  or  under  the  coffin,  for  the  convenience  of  this  mode  of 
carriage. 

||   See,  for  a  further  mention  of  this  term,  p.  80,  last  line. 

%  The  Rev.  R.S.  Hawker,  vicar  of  Moorwinstow,  author  of  some  beautiful  little  poems,  entitled, 
"  Records  of  the  Western  Shore,"  printed  at  Oxford,  1832,  and  of  the  University  Prize  Poem  for 
1827,  entitled  "Pompeii,"  recently  republished  by  Rivingtons,  in  a  small  volume,  called  "  Ecclesia." 


CORNWALL.  195 

"  Bring  forth  some  tuneful  instrument, 
And  let  your  voices  rise ; — 
My  spirit  listen'd  as  it  went 
To  music  of  the  skies. 

"  Sing  sweetly  while  you  travel  on, 
And  keep  the  funeral  slow  ; — 
The  angels  sing  where  I  am  gone, 
And  you  should  sing  below. 

"  Sing !  from  the  threshold  to  the  porch, 
Until  you  hear  the  bell ; 
And  sing  you  loudly  in  the  church 
The  Psalms  I  love  so  well ! 

"  Then  bear  me  gently  to  my  grave  ; 
And  as  you  pass  along, 
Remember,  'twas  my  wish  to  have 
A  pleasant  funeral  song. 

"  So  earth  to  earth,  and  dust  to  dust ; 
And  though  my  flesh  decay, 
My  soul  will  sing  among  the  just 
Until  the  judgment-day !" 

Redruth  parish  borders  upon  Camborne  eastwards,  and  is  very  populous  ; 
the  town,  consisting  of  one  principal  street,  of  great  length,  is  situated  upon 
the  side  and  summit  of  a  hill,  facing  the  west,  about  eight  miles  from  Truro. 
The  country  around  is  the  focus  of  the  middle  and  most  important  of  the 
mining  districts  of  Cornwall,  to  which  the  town  mainly  owes  its  nourishing 
state,  standing,  as  it  does,  in  the  midst  of  a  bleak  and  irregular  district,  the 
earth  turned  inside  out  by  ancient  and  modern  workings  for  tin  and  copper. 
The  parish  church,  the  patron  saint  of  which  is  St.  Uny,  is  situated  at  the  foot 
of  Cam  Bre  Hill,  not  quite  a  mile  from  the  place,  and  consists  of  a  modern 
nave,  with  a  more  ancient  tower :  a  new  chapel  has  recently  been  erected 
within  the  town,  which  once  possessed  a  former  structure  of  the  same  kind, 
dedicated  to  St.  Rumon.  For  some  time  Redruth  has  been  an  improving 
place,  having  increased  six-fold  within  the  last  four-score  years ;  a  good  deal  of 
retail  trade  is  carried  on,  and  there  are  a  number  of  excellent  shops.  There 
are  several  dissenting  places  of  worship,  with  Sunday  schools  for  children  of 
both  sexes,  and  very  good  and  reasonable  inns.  Northward  of  the  town  is  the 
village  of  Plengwary,  so  named  from  a  Plaen  an  guare,  which  stood  close  to  it. 

St.  Dye  is  a  market-town,  about  three  miles  from  Redruth,  in  the  great 
mining  parish  of  Gwenap,  so  called  from  a  Bishop  of  Nievre,  who  died  in  680, 
and  to  whom  a  chapel  was  once  erected  here  ;  it  is  a  thriving  place,  owing  to  the 
mines  in  the  vicinity.  The  manor  formerly  belonged  to  the  family  of  Hearle  ; 
Trevince  is  now  the  property  of  the  daughters  of  Mr.  J.  Beauchamp, 
brother  of  the  late  Mr.  Beauchamp,  of  Pengreep,  the  male  line  of  this  family 
becoming  extinct  in  1818.  In  this  parish  is  a  hill,  called  Carnmarth,  whence 
there  is  a  noble  prospect  from  sea  to  sea,  the  name  signifying  the  knight's 


190  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

barrow ;  many  earthen  vessels,  containing  burnt  bones,  have  been  dug  up 
there.  On  the  southern  side  is  a  large  circular  excavation,  caused  most 
probably  by  the  falling  in  of  an  old  mine,  locally  termed  "  The  Pit,"  and 
forming  an  excellent  amphitheatre,  where  the  voice  of  a  single  speaker  may  be 
distinctly  heard  by  thousands  of  persons  at  a  time.  It  was  here  that  Wesley 
used  to  address  the  miners,  who  attended  in  vast  numbers ;  and  the  change 
wrought  in  their  manners  and  habits  by  the  Methodists,  it  is  probable,  com- 
menced at  this  spot.  At  present  many  parishes  contain  more  than  one  chapel 
of  this  dissenting  sect,  and  the  effect  has  been  highly  beneficial  to  the 
population.  The  parish  of  Gwenap  has  produced,  in  a  given  space,  more 
wealth  from  the  earth  than  any  other  spot  in  the  old  world.  The  church  of 
Gwenap  is  large,  but  has  been  lamentably  defaced  by  the  parish  authorities ; 
it  appears  to  have  been  formerly  a  fine  fabric ;  the  tower  stands  apart,  after 
the  manner  of  a  campanile.  Scorrier,  in  this  parish,  was  erected  by  Mr.  J. 
Williams,  a  mining  merchant  and  adventurer,  who  died  some  years  since.  It 
is  now  in  the  occupation  of  his  family,  and  contains  a  valuable  collection  of 
Cornish  minerals. 

St.  Agnes's  parish  trenches  upon  that  of  Gwenap,  which,  with  that  of  Red- 
ruth and  Kenwyn,  all  meet  at  the  point  of  union  of  the  four  hundreds  of 
Penwith,  Kinder,  Powder,  and  Pydar,  called  "  Kyvere  Ankou,"  "  the  place  of 
death,"  on  account  of  having  been  the  spot  where,  according  to  former 
barbarian  usage,  the  unfortunate  suicide  found  a  grave.  The  church  of  this 
parish  was  once  a  free  chapel,  augmented  and  rebuilt  in  1484,  and  dedicated 
to  St.  Agnes,  as  a  daughter  church  to  Perranzabulo.  Some  say  it  was  made 
a  distinct  parish  in  1396,  and  that  the  building  of  the  present  church  was 
granted  by  license  in  1482.  Here  is  a  hill  near  the  sea,  seen  from  a  great 
distance,  called  St.  Agnes's  Beacon,  having  on  the  summit  three  barrows, 
from  whence  a  wide  view,  thirty-four  parishes,  a  part  of  Devonshire,  and  the 
North  and  South  Seas,  may  be  seen.  Off  the  shore  lie  the  rocks  called  the 
Cow  and  Calf,  about  two  miles  distant  from  the  main  land.  At  an  inlet,  or 
combe,  in  this  parish,  called  Trevaunance,  there  is  a  pier,  where  small  coasters 
load  and  unload ;  and  at  Dingle  Combe  there  was  formerly  one  of  those  sea- 
side chapels,  which,  in  catholic  times,  were  piously  placed  on  dangerous 
coasts,  and  attended  by  a  solitary,  who  offered  up  prayers  for  mariners,  and 
was  ready  to  tender  assistance  to  shipwrecked  persons. 

The  four  parishes  last  described  form  the  most  important  mining  district  of 
Cornwall,  in  which  the  mineral  Avealth  seems  inexhaustible ;  and  the  labours 
of  the  miner,  as  well  as  of  the  machinist,  are  exhibited  upon  a  scale  of  mag- 
nitude nowhere  else  surpassed.  The  ingenuity  of  the  miner  is  not  to  be 
judged  by  its  results,  at  a  distance  from  the  sphere  of  action  ;  but  even  there,  in 
a  great  degree,  by  the  imagination,  rather  than  the  visual  sense  of  the  stranger. 
In  darkness,  save  from  the  feeble  light  of  a  candle,  deep  in  the  heart  of  the 
earth,  amid  silence  and  solitude,  he  plies  his  vocation,  liable  to  become  the 


CORNWALL. 


197 


victim  of  confined  air,  great  changes  of  temperature,  and  numerous  accidents. 
For  small  wages  he  labours  voluntarily  ;  forgets  his  perils  in  the  hope  of 
profiting  by  fortunate  discoveries,  until  from  custom  it  becomes  easy  to  him; 
and  at  length  he  is  attached  to  a  pursuit  that  the  bulk  of  mankind  regard 
with  dismay. 

The  miner's  task  is  performed  with  very  simple  implements ;  but  as  far  as 
the  manual  part  is  concerned,  none  demands  greater  exertion  of  body,  in  posi- 
tions more  inconvenient,  or  in  situations  more  calculated  to  affect  the  health 
by  slow  but  certain  deterioration.  At  great  depths  beneath  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  the  temperature  is  uniformly  high,  while  the  atmosphere  is  damp  and 
confined.  In  Cornwall  there  is  no  hydrogen  gas  emitted  resembling  that  which 
causes  so  many  accidents  in  coal-pits ;  but  the  metallic  substances,  particu- 
larly copper,  may  be  well  supposed  to  affect  the  quality  of  an  atmosphere  at 
depths  unknown  in  coal-mines,  much  exhausted  of  oxygen,  and  strongly 
impregnated  at  times  with  carbonic  gas,  so  as  to  produce  in  works,  remote 
from  communication  with  pure  air,  those  effects  observed  in  all  situations 
under  similar  circumstances. 

The  ground  through  which  the  Cornish  miner  has  to  find  his  way  is  gene- 
rally of  a  very  difficult  character,  sometimes  consisting  of  solid  granite,  or 
elvan  rock  of  excessive  hardness.  His  tools  are  few,  but  they  are  well  adapted 
to  their  object ;  consisting,  besides  those  represented  in  the  following  engrav- 
ing, of  a  small  wedge  or  two  of  steel,  denominated  a  gad,  which  is  driven  into 
the  rock  by  the  round  end  of  the  pick,  for  the  purpose  of  splitting  and 
detaching  portions  from  the  mass.  The  instrument,  No.  1,  is  the  pick  of  the 
miner ;  2,  the  shovel ;  3,  the  sledge ;  4,  the  borer ;  5,  the  claying  bar ;  6,  the 
needle,  called  by  some  the  nail;  7,  the  scraper;  8,  the  tamping  bar;  and  9, 


V 


o 


the  tin  cartridge,   for  blasting  where  the  rock  is  wet :  a  horn  to  carry  his 
gunpowder,  rushes  to  supply  him  with  fuzes,  and  a  little  touch-paper,  or  slow 


P 


R 


198  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

match,  to  fire  the  fuze,  and  allow  him  time  to  retire  from  danger,  comprise, 
with  a  common  wheelbarrow,  and  a  kibble,  as  it  is  called  in  Cornwall,  known 
as  a  "  corve"  in  coal-mines,  the  only  apparatus  of  which  the  working  miner  has 
need. 

When  there  is  reason  for  believing  that  a  vein  of  ore  of  good  quality  has  been 
found  after  "  shoding,"  according  to  the  old  practice,  as  hereafter  described, 
or  after  any  modern   mode  by   which  the  conclusion  is  attained,    the   first 
thing  commonly  done  is  to  explore  the  place,  and  sink  a  "  shaft "  at  the  spot 
which  experience  may  dictate  as  most  convenient  for  future  operations.     A 
shaft  is  a  perpendicular  opening  in  the  earth,  made  of  a  different  size,  accord- 
ing to  circumstances;  but  the  word  is  always  applied  to  such  excavations  as  go 
directly  downwards  to  the  bottom  of  the  mine,  and  not  to  such  perpendicular 
openings  as  communicate  from  one  level  or  gallery  to  another,  these  last  being 
called  "  winzes."     The  size  of  a  shaft  varies ;  the  largest  being  generally  that 
over  which  the  steam-engine  works,    requiring  room  for  the  piunps  to  be 
placed,  for  the  kibbles  to  pass  up  and  down,  and  for  the  ladders  and  platforms 
by  which   the   miners   descend.     An   engine-shaft,   of  good   size,    measures 
twelve  feet  by  eight ;  but  those  intended  merely  for  the  purpose  of  hauling  up 
ores  or  rubbish  are  not  more  than  half  that  size.     In  the  miner's  phraseology, 
"  sinking"  implies  excavating  downwards,  and  "driving"  means  working  hori- 
zontally;   and  as  the  first-mentioned   perpendicular   excavations   are   called 
shafts  and  winzes,   those  made  or  driven  horizontally  are   called  "  levels," 
or  "  adits ;"  in  the  first  case,  they  are  driven  to  open  communications,  or  for 
getting  at  the  "  lode,"  or  vein  of  ore  ;  in  the  second,  they  are  intended  merely 
to  carry  off  the  water.     A  level  is  about  seven  feet  high  by  two  feet  six  inches 
wide,  so  as  to  allow  room  for  ventilation  if  it  be  found  necessary  to  continue 
them  for  a  great  length.     Twelve  men  are  employed  in  sinking  a  large  shaft, 
four  at  a  time,  relieving  each  other  every  eight  hours,  or  every  six,  if  the  work 
require  it ;  in  sinking  smaller  shafts  fewer  hands  are  required,  but  the  time  of 
labour  and  relief  is  the  same.     As  the  ground  is  broken,  men  are  employed  to 
haul  it  up  out  of  the  way.     In  driving  a  level,  only  two  men  can  work  at  a 
time.     The  sinking  is  paid  for  by  the  fathom,  the  price  varying  from  as  low 
as  51.  up  to  90/.  per  fathom,  where  rock  of  excessive  hardness,  at  a  con- 
siderable depth,  has  to  be  cut  through.     From  10*\  to  30/.  is  paid  per  fathom 
for  driving  levels,  or  adits,  the  price  depending,  in  like  manner,  upon  the 
contract  for  the  ground  to  be  gone  through.     In  these  prices  are  included 
the  expenses  of  gunpowder,  tools,  candles,  wheeling  the  stuff,  and  generally 
drawing  it  to  the  surface.     There  is  yet  a  third  kind  of  work,  called  u  stoap- 
ing,"  which  has  no  relation  to  sinking  or  driving,  but  means  the  working  out 
the  ground  from  between  the  levels  directly  upon  the  veins,  and  getting  out 
the  ore.     When  this  work  is  pursued  above,  or  over  head,  it  is  called  "  stoap- 
ing  the  backs ;"    if  below  the  level,  downwards,   it  is  called  "  stoaping  the 
bottoms ;"  and  it  is  to  perform  this  work  that  the  shafts  are  sunk  and  the 


CORNWALL. 


199 


levels  driven.  The  men  who  perform  it  are  styled  "  tribute  men,"  to  distin- 
guish them  from  those  who  work  by  the  fathom,  upon  auction  contract  also, 
which  is  styled  "  tut-work."  The  tribute  worker  is  paid  by  a  share  of  the  ore 
he  raises  ;  a  certain  number  of  men  taking  a  particular  piece  of  ground  for  that 
purpose,  to  be  paid  a  portion  of  the  produce  when  the  ore  is  made  merchant- 
able, up  to  which  time  they  bear  a  proportion  of  all  the  expenses.  By  this 
means  the  interest  of  the  men  and  their  employer  is  the  same  in  getting  every 
possible  quantity  of  ore,  and  making  it  marketable  at  the  smallest  expense. 
The  proportion  paid  to  the  miner  is  rated  at  so  much  in  the  pound  out  of  the 
total  sold,  and  this  rate  naturally  varies  even  in  different  parts  of  the  same 
mine,  from  circumstances  attending  the  nature  of  the  work,  and  value  of  the 
ores.  The  "  pitches,"  as  these  takings  of  the  workmen  are  called,  are  generally 
let  every  two  months,  to  a  party  of  men,  by  a  system  of  auction,  in  which  the 
lowest  bidder  obtains  the  taking;  "the  pair,"  as  the  party  is  called,  having 
money  advanced  to  them  for  subsistence,  locally  "  'sist  money,"  until  the 
period  of  their  taking  is  completed.  It  is  from  the  pursuance  of  this  system 
that  differences  between  the  miners  and  their  employers  are  unknown  in  Corn- 
wall, and  that  the  utmost  harmony  prevails,  as  it  must  needs  do  where  the 
interest  is  mutual,  and  both  parties  treat  upon  an  equal  footing.  Even  the 
lowest  employment  at  the  mines,  that  of  dressing  the  ores,  is  effected  upon  a 
similar  system.  It  must  be  observed  that  nowhere  is  business  done  more 
methodically.  All  the  contracts  are  duly  entered  in  a  book  by  a  captain  of  the 
mine,  who  makes  them  on  what  is  called  "  setting  day,"  which  is  a  holiday  at 
the  mine,  and  takes  place  every  two  months ;  this  captain  being  always  a  man 
of  great  experience  in  estimating  the  work.  The  "  survey,"  as  it  is  called,  is 
either  held  in  the  open  air,  in  front  of  the  counting-house,  or  in  some  covered 
place  contiguous.  A  large  number  of  miners  attend,  who  are  employed,  or 
may  desire  to  be  so.  The  rules  are  read, 
and  the  fines  attached  for  breach  of 
regulations ;  and  then  the  first  piece  of 
work  is  declared  at  a  high  price,  and 
the  miners  that  are  inclined  bid  down, 
until  no  one  present  will  go  lower, 
when  the  captain  flings  up  a  pebble,  and 
the  "  taker,"  as  he  is  styled,  is  pro- 
claimed, and  his  bargain  entered.  It  is 
seldom  that  the  captain  fails  to  find  a 
taker  at  what  his  judgment  tells  him 
is  a  fair  price ;  should  he  do  so,  the 
work  is  put  by  for  some  future  setting 
day.  No  system  of  arrangement  can 
be  better  calculated  for  the  interest  of  employers  and  employed,  and  experi- 
ence has  proved  it  so.     We  here  present  the  reader  with  the  portrait  of  a 


200  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

Cornish  miner,   in  his   holland  jacket  and    trowsers,    with  his    shovel,    and 
"hoggan-bag,"*  proceeding  to  his  employment. 

A  large  proportion  of  the  ground  which  the  Cornish  miner  has  to  open 
cannot  be  penetrated  by  the  pick,  and  cleared  away  by  the  shovel.  For  this 
purpose  other  means  must  be  resorted  to.  First,  wherever  the  rock  can  be 
loosened,  as  slate  can  generally  be,  the  steel  e  gad '  and  sledge,  No.  3  in  the 
cut,  is  had  recourse  to;  but  when  this  is  of  no  effect,  the  borer,  No.  4,  is 
applied.  The  borer  is  placed  on  the  rock  intended  to  be  perforated,  and  is 
struck  with  the  sledge  by  a  second  man,  the  first  turning  it  round  after  every 
blow.  By  this  means  a  hole  is  formed  in  time,  from  one  to  three  feet  deep, 
as  may  be  required.  This  hole  is  cleared  with  the  scraper,  No.  7,  or  if  filled 
with  mud,  a  stick  is  used ;  one  end  of  which  is  beaten  until  it  forms  a  species 
of  brush,  called  a  "  swab  stick."  The  hole  is  made  in  a  direction  fixed  by  the 
experience  of  the  miner,  so  as,  when  fired,  to  loosen,  rather  than  break  into 
shivers,  the  largest  possible  mass  of  rock.  When  the  hole  is  deep  enough,  and 
of  a  diameter  seldom  exceeding  an  inch  and  a  half,  it  is  made,  if  possible,  per- 
fectly dry,  and  then  charged  with  gunpowder ;  but  if  it  be  not  sufficiently  dry, 
and  cannot  be  made  so,  the  cartridge,  No.  9,  is  had  recourse  to,  furnished  with 
a  stem  which  conducts  the  train  to  the  charge  at  the  bottom ;  the  hole  round 
the  tube  is  then  rammed  full  of  clay.  If  the  hole  be  dry,  the  gunpowder  is 
introduced  into  the  bottom,  and  a  rod,  No.  6, — (too  often  of  iron  in  place  of 
copper,) — is  placed  with  the  lower  end  upon  the  charge,  and  then  clay  or  soft 
rock  is  rammed  in  hard  around  it  with  the  tamping  bar,  No.  8, — a  dangerous 
process  where  copper  is  not  used.  The  claying  bar,  No.  5,  is  sometimes  used 
to  fill  the  sides  of  the  hole  with  clay,  and  stop  the  chinks  that  may  let  in  water, 
but  not  always  with  such  success  as  to  admit  the  charge  of  powder  into  a  dry 
chamber.  When  the  charge  is  rammed  home,  and  tough  clay  or  soft  rock  over 
it,  the  iron  rod  is  withdrawn,  and  a  rush  previously  prepared  by  taking  out 
the  pith  and  filling  it  with  gunpowder,  (supposing  the  tin  cartridge  not  to  be 
used,)  is  inserted  in  the  hole  left  by  the  withdrawal  of  the  rod.  A  prepared 
fuze  of  paper,  or  match,  called  the  "  snuft,"  is  affixed  to  the  toj)  of  the  rush, 
of  a  length  sufficient  to  permit  the  miner  to  remove  out  of  the  Avay.  Some 
improvements  in  this  rude  and  dangerous  mode  of  proceeding  are  gradually 
making  way. 

The  mode  of  working  in  the  level,  or  driving,  is  exemplified  in  the  opposite 
page ;  the  level  proceeding  from  one  side  of  the  perpendicular  shaft  to  form  a 
junction  with  a  second  shaft,  or  reach  a  vein  of  ore  lying  at  the  point  towards 
which  the  excavation  is  directed.  The  mode  of  finding  the  true  direction 
of  the  level,  is  by  the  compass,  called  "  dialling ;"  not  within  the  sphere  of  the 
labouring  miner's  operations,  he  having  only  to  follow  the  direction  which 
is  marked  out  for  him,  and  which  will  bring  him  without  guidance,  as  he 
appears  to  lie  operating,  to  the  exact  point  which  has  been  indicated. 

*  A  hag  in  which  he  carries  his  dinner  to  the  mine. 


CORNWALL. 


£01 


The  employment  of  the  miner  is  very  liable  to  accident;  he  has  not 
only  to  descend  to  his  labour,  and  to  ascend  after  it  is  over,  every  eight 
hours,  but  he  has  in  many  cases  to 
traverse  levels  at  a  great  depth  below 
the  surface  before  he  reaches  his  place 
of  work,  shown  in  the  annexed  cut ; 
and  so  deep  are  the  mines,  that  it 
frequently  costs  an  hour  to  reach 
the  surface  after  his  labour  is  done. 
Few  have  an  idea  of  the  magnitude  of 
a  Cornish  mine  of  the  more  extensive 
kind;  but  some  notion  may  be  formed 
of  the  vastness  of  the  workings, 
when  we  state  that  those  of  the  Con- 
solidated Mines  alone  extend  sixty- 
three  miles  under  ground,  or  55,000 
fathoms.  The  ascent  and  descent  are 
by  ladders,  which  were  formerly  per- 
pendicular to  the  sides  of  the  mine, 
and  fifty  feet  long ;  but  as  the  mines 
have  been  worked  deeper  the  ladders 
have  been  shortened  to  half  that 
length,  and  placed  as  slopingly  as  pos- 
sible, to  ease  the  miner,  whose  weight 
is  thus  rendered  more  dependent  upon  his  feet  than  it  was  before,  and  less 
upon  his  hands.  At  the  foot  of  each  ladder  is  a  platform,  called  a  sollar,  with  an 
opening  or  man-hole  leading  to  the  next  ladder  beneath,  as  shown  in  the 
following  engraving,  which  exhibits  the  old  mode  of  placing  the  ladders  ;  in 
the  new,  that  which  the  man  is  represented  as  ascending  should  have  been 
drawn  out,  and  the  man-hole  and  next  ladder  have  been  behind  it.  Perhaps 
the  miner  has  not  to  descend  a  quarter  of  the  Avay  down  the  shaft  before  he 
comes  to  a  level,  which  he  must  traverse  to  a  winze,  or  short  shaft,  which  leads 
him  to  a  level  that  is  beneath  that,  some  portion  of  which  he  may  have  to  tra- 
verse to  a  third  level.  In  such  a  case,  the  ladder  descent  and  ascent  is  rendered 
less  fatiguing ;  but  still  it  is  sufficiently  so  in  deep  mines  to  make  the  action  of 
the  heart  feeble  and  irregular  on  the  miner's  coming  to  the  surface  exhausted, 
finding  too  an  atmosphere  often  of  30°  or  40°  of  Fahrenheit,  from  a  temperature 
beneath  of  80°,  in  which  great  bodily  exercise  in  the  most  disadvantageous  posi- 
tions has  been  used.*  The  younger  portion  of  the  miners  are  observed  to  be 
particularly  distressed  upon  these  occasions,  both  from  want  of  habitude,  and 
the  propensity  to  travel  up  the  ladders  with  too  much  celerity,  f 

*   See  Population  and  Diseases,  at  the  end  of  this  volume, 
t  Observations  of  Mr.  Lanyon  and  Dr.  Barham. 

D    D 


202 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


In  this  engraving,  which  exhibits  the  interior  of  a  shaft,  with  the  ladders, 
engine  pumps,  and  kibbles,  the  last  ascending  and  descending,  some  of  the  minor 
details  are  omitted,  that  the  reader  may  have  a  more  perfect  idea  of  the  whole. 
In  general,  the  portion  of  the  engine  shaft  where  the  kibbles  pass  is  boarded 

off  from  the  rest  to  prevent  acci- 
dents, by  any  portion  of  their 
contents  falling  out,  or  from  their 
swinging  by  striking  against  the 
sides.  The  hollow  on  the  left 
hand  is  given  to  exhibit  the  en- 
trance to  a  level,  or  it  may  be  an 
adit;  in  which  latter  case  the 
pumps  would  probably  discharge 
into  it  a  portion  of  the  water 
raised  by  the  engine  from  what 
is  called  the  "  sump,"  or  bottom 
of  the  engine  shaft,  Avhile  the  rest 
is  pumped  up  to  the  surface,  or  in 
the  miner's  phrase,  "to  grass." 

The  Cornish  miner,  it  may  be 
truly  inferred,  is,  when  equally 
devoid  of  advantages  for  improv- 
ing his  mind,  a  superior  being 
to  the  agricultural  labourer,  who 
is  ever  little  above  the  mill-horse 
in  his  nature.  Like  a  machine, 
he  goes  through  life,  performing 
exactly  the  same  thing  from  youth 
to  old  age,  neither  increasing,  nor 
perhaps  diminishing  his  scanty 
stock  of  ideas.  "  Send  us  none  of  your  rural  labourers,"  says  an  Ameri- 
can; "they  can  only  do  one  thing — a  ploughman,  plough,  and  a  carter  drive 
a  team.  Half  the  year  with  us,  a  saw  or  axe  must  be  used,  and  other 
occupations  must  fill  up  the  time  when  husbandry  is  impracticable,  and  we 
can  teach  your  rustics  nothing  of  this ;  send  us  a  mechanic,  we  can  easily 
teach  him  to  plough,  harrow,  and  drive  a  cart,  for  that  portion  of  time  our 
climate  demands  such  sort  of  work."  The  reason  of  this  is,  that  the  agricul- 
tural labourer  is  confined  by  habit  to  a  set  task ;  he  cannot  rise  above  his 
drudgery,  being  held  in  the  meshes  of  a  hopeless  poverty,  and  above  all  never 
thrown  in  the  progress  of  his  business  upon  his  own  resources.  The  Cornish 
miner  is  the  reverse  of  this ;  he  is  perpetually  taking  a  new  "  pitch,"  in  a 
new  situation,  where  his  own  judgment  must  be  called  into  action.  His 
wages  arise  from  contract,  and  are  not  the  stinted  recompense  of  emancipated 


CORNWALL.  203 

serfship.  Upon  emerging  from  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  the  miner  goes  into 
the  "  changing  house,"  or  place  appointed  for  the  purpose,  washes,  and  takes 
oft'  his  woollen  working  dress ;  then,  if  the  mine  was  not  deep,  and  his  labour 
too  great,  on  repairing  to  his  cottage,  he  cultivates  his  acre  or  two  of  ground, 
which  he  obtains  on  lease,  upon  easy  terms,  from  the  heathy  downs,  for  three 
lives,  at  a  few  shillings'  rent.  There  by  degrees  he  has  contrived  to  build 
a  small  cottage,  often  a  good  part  of  it  with  his  own  hand,  the  stone 
costing  him  nothing;  or  it  may  be  he  has  only  taken  land  for  the  growth 
of  potatoes,  to  cultivate  which  he  pares  and  burns  the  ground,  and  rents  a 
cottage  at  fifty  or  sixty  shillings  a-year,  with  a  right  of  turf  fuel,  which  he 
cuts  and  prepares  himself.  Many  miners  have  tolerable  gardens,  and  some 
are  able  to  do  their  own  carpentry  work,  and  near  the  coast  others  are  expert 
fishermen.  The  fishermen  themselves,  a  very  sturdy  and  bold  set  of  men, 
cultivate  their  own  potato  ground  when  on  shore.  In  the  mining  districts  of  the 
west,  about  Camborne  and  Redruth,  the  ground  is  literally  sown  with  cottages. 
In  Cornwall  the  miners  link  together  the  different  labouring  classes  ;  and 
the  farm-labourer  often  imbibes,  from  mingling  with  the  miners  and  fisher- 
men, a  spirit  and  acuteness  akin  to  a  sense  of  independence  not  observed  in  the 
rustic  of  other  counties.  The  miner  is  generally  possessed  of  personal  courage 
in  a  very  eminent  degree.  At  least  one-third  of  the  crew  of  Captain  Pellew's 
(Lord  Exmouth's)  ship,  that  fought  the  gallant  action  with  the  Cleopatra  French 
frigate,  the  first  naval  action  last  war,  were  Cornish  miners  who  had  never  been 
at  sea  in  a  ship  before ;  and  almost  all  on  board  were  fellow-countymen  of  Pel- 
lew.  Indeed,  courage  is  required  in  many  situations  in  which  the  miner  is  placed. 
Thus  at  Botallack  mine,*  represented  on  the  other  side,  at  the  extreme  west  of  the 
county,  a  few  miles  from  the  Land's  End,  and  close  to  Cape  Cornwall,  a  shore 
lashed  by  the  full  fury  of  the  Atlantic,  the  workings  are  upon  the  verge  of  the 
cliff,  and,  descending  beneath  the  sea,  are  carried  out  480  feet  beyond  low-water 
mark ;  and  in  some  places  not  eighteen  feet  is  left  between  the  workings  and 
the  sea.  At  every  flux  and  reflux  of  the  tide,  the  waves  are  heard  breaking 
in  thunder  over  head ;  wonderfully  high  as  they  run,  and  tremendously  loud 
as  they  roar,  from  over  an  ocean  hundreds  of  leagues  broad ;  the  large  pieces 
of  stone  rolled  backward  and  forward  on  the  beach  during  a  storm  can  be  dis- 
tinctly heard  above  grating  "  harsh  thunder."  Several  parts  of  the  lode  being 
rich,  were  followed  to  within  a  few  feet  of  the  water,  when  in  stormy  wea- 
ther the  noise  became  so  tremendous  that  the  miners,  intrepid  as  they  are, 
deserted  their  labour  once  or  twice,  lest  the  sea  should  break  in  upon  them. 
The  nature  of  the  work  of  the  Cornish  miner  may  be  further  estimated  from 
the  fact  of  the  shafts  alone  of  one  mine  being  together  twenty  miles  in  depth 
beneath  the  surface,  and  some  1652  feet  deep,  or  nearly  five  times  the  height 
of  St.  Paul's  from  the  cross  to  the  ground.f  The  "  Great  Adit,"  cut  from 
side  to  side  of  the  county,  measures  more  than  thirty  miles,  including   its 

*  See  also  page  174— "  Botallack  mine."  t  Or  340  feet. 


204 


ENGLAND  IN  TUE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


branches ;  and  in  some  parts  it  is  400  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  ground. 
The  largest  branch  of  this  adit  is  five  and  a  half  miles,  and  it  opens  into  the 
sea  above  high  water  mark  at  Restronoet  Creek.  This  is  tunnelling  of  some 
character,  and  evinces  abundantly  the  perseverance,  ingenuity,  and  hazardous 
nature  of  these  undertakings,  as  well  as  the  character  of  those  who  plan  and 
carry  them  into  effect.* 


The  Botallack  mine  at  St.  Just,  here  represented,  is  not  the  only  stupendous 

*  A  Cornish  miner  can  -work  in  a  level  600  feet  from  a  shaft  without  inconvenience,  owing  to  the 
good  ventilation  ;  hut  they  have  been  known,  notwithstanding,  to  lose  5  lb.  or  6  lb.  at  a  single  "  spell" 
of  labour  from  perspiration,  at  the  bottom  of  a  deep  mine,  where  the  temperature  is  often  nearer  90° 
than  80°.  There  is  a  fund  provided  at  every  mine  for  medical  assistance.  Out  of  1,101  working 
miners  Mr.  Lanyon  found  the  average  age  31,  and  the  average  time  employed  16  years  and  two  months. 
There  were  only  14  from  60  to  70,  and  one  who  was  70  ;  no  less  than  952  were  under  50  years.  Of  147 
agricultural  labourers  he  found  the  average  47  years,  and  they  had  worked  double  the  average  time 
of  the  miners.  Mr.  Lanyon  states  that  in  the  returns  of  deaths,  the  longevity  of  miners  is  found  the 
greater  from  the  diseases  which  they  contract,  causing  many  of  their  last  years  to  be  spent  in  suffer- 
ing. It  would  appear  that  the  Polytechnic  Society,  a  very  useful  institution,  holding  its  meetings  at 
Falmouth,  has  had  under  consideration  a  method  of  introducing  machinery  for  descending  into  mines, 
and  thus  obviating  one  great  cause  of  disease  among  this  class  of  men. 


CORNWALL.  205 

undertaking  a  part  of  the  workings  of  which  Cornwall  exhibits,  or  has  exhi- 
bited, above  ground.  We  have  mentioned  the  Carclaze  tin  mine,*  worked  for 
400  years  open  to  the  day.  Near  Penzance  there  was  an  extraordinary  under- 
taking, called  the  Wherry  mine,  of  which  the  mouth  opened  in  the  sea ;  the 
mine  was  commenced  720  feet  from  the  shore,  and  the  miners  worked  100  feet 
beneath.  A  steam  engine  was  erected  on  the  shore,  which  communicated  by 
rods  with  the  shaft,  and  so  pumped  up  the  water.  The  rods  passed  by  the 
side  of  a  platform,  or  wherry,  tilted  upon  piles.  A  vessel,  in  a  storm,  was 
once  driven  against  the  platform,  and  carried  away  a  portion  of  it.  The 
upper  part  of  the  shaft  consisted  of  a  caisson,  which  rose  twelve  feet  above  the 
ocean  level,  and  stood  in  the  midst  of  the  mound  of  rubbish  excavated  from 
the  mine  ;  the  miners  descending  through  the  sea  to  their  labour,  the  water 
continually  dropping  from  the  roof  of  the  mine,  and  the  roar  of  the  waves 
being  distinctly  perceptible  below.  The  undertaking  was  adventurous  beyond 
example,  and  was  ultimately  given  up  from  the  expense  exceeding  the  profit. 
The  ore  raised  was  tin,  some  of  which  was  mingled  with  pyritous  copper,  and 
a  portion  of  it  was  of  very  good  quality. 

We  attired  ourselves  in  a  woollen  dress,  and  putting  on  a  large  felt  hat,  and 
tying  three  or  four  candles  to  a  button-hole,  with  another  lighted  in  the  hand, 
set  our  feet  on  the  staves  of  the  first  ladder  of  the  engine  shaft,  not  afraid, 
and  yet  not  without  apprehension.  On  one  side,  over  the  dark  unknown 
vacuity  beneath,  in  which  a  double  row  of  iron  pumps  were  lost  in  the  gloom, 
every  instant  bowed  the  huge  beam  of  the  steam  engine,  and  then  it  rose, 
straining  at  the  deluge  of  water  it  lifted.  On  the  other  side,  through  boards 
which  admitted  just  light  enough,  at  the  foot  of  one  or  two  ladders,  to  see 
them  pass,  uprose  the  loaded  kibble,  as  its  companion  descended,  so  that  we 
were  between  two  shafts  descending  from  stage  to  stage.  Very  quickly 
losing  sight  of  day,  we  had  only  the  dimness  of  our  candles  whereAvith  to  con- 
template the  gloomy  abyss  on  our  left,  as  wTe  descended.  The  German  who 
committed  suicide,  said  he  was  going  "  to  leap  into  darkness ;"  he  might  have 
found  here  a  reality  for  his  metaphor ;  here  was  palpable  darkness,  and  an 
abyss  deep  enough  for  relieving  any  anxiety  about  a  return  to  the  regions 
of  day.  Two  or  three  ladders  descended,  almost  perpendicular  as  they  were, 
we  craved  a  momentary  halt  on  the  platform,  which  a  couple  of  sturdy  miners 
who  were  with  us  readily  yielded.  We  then  went  down  ladder  after  ladder, 
until  we  fancied  we  were  really  getting  to  the  antipodes,  and,  as  the  miners 
say,  should  "  soon  hear  the  cocks  crowing  in  China,"  when  we  were  told  we 
were  not  more  than  half  way.  "  And  what  were  we  to  see  at  the  bottom  ?" 
We  were  answered,  nothing  more  than  what  we  saw  there,  except  that  we 
should  see  the  end  of  the  pumps  in  a  basin  of  water,  drained  from  all  parts 
of  the  mine.  What  then  did  we  come  to  see?  was  the  question;  and  wre 
were  persuaded  to  descend  directly  no  further,   but  to   traverse   the   levels 

*  Page  105. 


206  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

upon  the  lode,  which  we  did  accordingly ;  entering  galleries  and  descending- 
shafts,  until  we  formed  a  pretty  good  idea  of  the  lone  and  solitary  labour  that 
man  makes  for  himself  in  pursuit  of  riches,  far  from  the  light  of  the  sun.  In 
the  levels  we  found  endless  passages,  through  which  two  persons  can  just 
squeeze  by  one  another,  with  ugly  trap-holes  at  the  ends,  leading  to  headlong 
destruction ;  the  passages  are  six  or  seven  feet  high.  The  ore  presents  no 
very  peculiar  appearance ;  no  glittering  lights  were  reflected  from  the  hollows 
whence  the  ore  was  extracting ;  but  all  seemed  the  colour  of  the  rock  around. 
The  heat  was  intense,  and  the  perspiration  it  produced  violent.  We  toiled 
heavily  to  the  surface,  ladder  after  ladder ;  and  at  the  foot  of  the  last,  thought 
of  the  expression  of  the  native  of  Hindostan,  to  Mr.  Vigne,  on  breathing  the 
fresh  cool  air  of  Cabul,  "  Sahib,  sahib,  a  breath  of  this  would  be  Avorth  a  lac 
of  rupees  in  Hindostan !"  The  appearance  of  day,  and  the  cool  air,  was  an 
enjoyment  impossible  to  describe.  After  this,  so  short  lived  are  human  recol- 
lections of  what  is  painful  or  disagreeable,  we  made  a  second  descent,  in  a 
kibble,  to  view  a  lead  mine ;  and  here  in  one  of  the  levels  we  got  a  perfect 
idea  of  the  way  in  which  that  species  of  ore  lies  in  the  earth ;  it  was  galena, 
and  glittered  with  great  brilliancy  in  the  storehouse  of  nature,  from  which  it 
was'  about  to  be  disengaged,  to  face  the  blazing  orb  of  day  on  the  house-top,  or 
carry  death  to  the  fellow-creature  of  him  who  had  despatched  it  to  the  ujiper 
world  for  that  mischief.  The  following  is  a  section  of  a  mine,  exhibiting  the 
mode  of  working  below  the  surface.  The  perpendicular  lines  are  shafts,  with 
the  engines  above  them ;  one  is  a  whim  shaft,*  principally  used  for  drawing  up 
stuff;  the  single  lines  are  veins  of  ore.  The  engraving  is  upon  a  very  small 
scale,  representing  a  transverse  section  of  the  works ;  as  it  would  require  a  very 
large  map  to  exhibit  in  full  the  shafts,  levels,  and  workings,  upon  the  lodes  of 

*  TTVaVns,  are  drums,  generally  moved  by  horse  or  steam  power,  round  which  the  ropes  run  that 
draw  up  the  kibbles,  which,  when  filled,  weigh  from  550  lbs.  to  1,200 lbs.  We  add  some  other  terms  : 
duly,  is  the  amount  of  work  done  by  the  steam-engine ;  dip  of  the  lode,  is  the  inclination  of  the  angle 
it  makes  with  the  horizon  ;  eyes  of  the  mine,  are  ores  left  untouched  until  the  mine  is  about  to  be 
abandoned;  bal,  is  spoken  of  that  part  of  a  mine  which  is  on  the  surface;  the  purser  is  the  chief 
officer  of  the  mine,  who  pays  and  receives  all  monies ;  grass-captains,  are  captains  above  ground,  in 
distinction  from  those  who  regulate  business  below ;  bucking  and  cobbing,  are  breaking  up  copper  ore 
for  dressing ;  gossan,  is  the  stone  or  stuff  which  may  envelope  the  ore  in  the  lode,  constituting  a  good 
part  of  the  filling  up  ;  Jleuhan,  a  flaw,  a  term  for  having  cut  out  of  the  lode  ;  "  working  for  discovery," 
a  great  improvement,  adopted  in  profitable  mines,  by  laying  out  a  portion  of  the  proceeds  in  working 
for  lodes  or  branches  of  ore  in  new  directions,  being  a  continued  system  of  exploration  from  existing 
levels,  generally  rewarded  with  success,  and  sometimes  richly  so.  This  system  is  pursued  most 
scientifically  at  the  Fowey  Consols  mine,  which  is  perhaps  the  most  admirably  conducted  and  systema- 
tized of  any  other  in  existence,  and  returns  a  steady  profit  of  about  15,000?.  per  annum.  The  unpro- 
ductive stuff  or  rubbish  in  a  mine  is  called  atdc,  or  the  deads.  A  mine  set  to  work  again  after 
abandonment  is  said  to  be  in  fork ;  the  country,  means  the  earth  or  ground  on  all  sides  of  a  mine  ; 
doles,  are  shares  in  mining  adventures;  setting,  is  the  right  of  working  ground  for  ores  set  or  granted 
by  the  lord  of  the  soil,  or  the  bounder  ;  the  disk,  was  formerly  the  name  of  a  gallon  by  which  block 
tin  was  measured ;  it  was  subsequently  applied  to  the  share  or  dole  which  is  the  due  of  the  owner  of 
the  soil,  called  "  the  lord's  dish." 


CORNWALL. 


207 


a  large  mine ;  and  they  would  in  such  a  case  only  be  more  multiplied  than  they 
are  here,  and  consequently  appear  more  confused  to  those  unaccustomed  to 
the  subject.  The  first  dark  line  across  is  an  adit,  which  carries  off  the  water 
above  that  level;  the  miners  reckon  the  depths  from  the  adit,  because  the 
surface  of  the  ground  is  not  level,  and  the  shafts  are  distant  from  each  other. 
Into  this  adit  the  engine  discharges  all  the  water  beneath  it  not  required  at 
the  surface. 


As  there  are  four  great  outbreaks  or  islands  of  granite  in  Cornwall,  so 
the  mineral  treasuries  of  the  county  may  be  arranged  in  four  divisions,  all 
either  upon  these  granite  islands,  or  on  their  borders.  Of  these,  the  eastern- 
most, to  which  the  mines  near  Callington  may  be  said  to  belong,  are  the  least 
important.  The  St.  Austle  district,  to  the  eastward  of  Truro,  is  a  very  pro- 
ductive portion  of  the  county,  but  is  far  exceeded  by  the  mines  in  the  third 
division,  upon  and  around  the  granite  west  of  Truro,  which  are  found  in  the 
parishes  of  Redruth,  St.  Agnes,  Gwenap,  and  Camborne.  The  fourth  divi- 
sion, which  includes  the  county  from  St.  Hilary  to  the  Land's  End,  and  the 
mines  near  the  shores  of  Mount's  Bay,  towards  the  Lizard,  is  perhaps  the 
oldest,  and  is  also  the  most  productive  in  the  county  after  the  last  mentioned. 
It  adjoins  St.  Michael's  Mount,  the  ancient  Ictis,  for  no  other  place  in  Corn- 
wall answers  the  description  conveyed  :  in  the  words  of  Diodorus,  "  those  who 
live  at  the  extreme  end  of  Britain,  called  Belerium,*  are  remarkably  hospi- 

*   Or  Bolerium — BeAsvtov. 


208  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

table,  and,  on  account  of  their  intercourse  with  foreign  merchants,  courteous 
in  their  manner.  They  prepare  the  tin  by  properly  working  the  gx'ound  that 
produces  it,  which,  being  rocky,  contains  earthy  fissures,  the  produce  whereof 
they  purify  by  working  and  melting.  When  they  have  cut  it  into  pieces,  in 
the  form  of  dice,  they  carry  it  to  a  certain  island  lying  off  the  coast  called 
Ictis.  At  the  ebb  of  the  sea,  the  intermediate  space  being  dry,  they  carry 
thither  a  great  quantity  of  tin  in  carts ;"  he  adds,  "  here  the  merchants  buy  it 
of  the  natives,  and  carry  it  into  Gaul."  In  corroboration  of  this  account, 
blocks  of  tin,  of  a  cubical  form,  have  been  found  near  old  stream  workings.* 

The  tin  mines  of  Cornwall  were  not  very  productive  in  the  reign  of  King 
John,  who,  being  Earl  of  Cornwall,  engrossed  the  trade,  which  he  afterwards 
farmed  to  Jews.f  The  profits  became  more  considerable,  until  Edward  I. 
banished  the  Jews  from  the  county ;  soon  afterwards  the  tinners  had  a  charter 
granted  by  King  John  confirmed  to  them.  Stannary  J  meetings  were  held, 
and  towns  aj^pointed  for  coinage,  and  due  authority  was  conferred  upon  the 
Stannary  Courts,  which  privileges  were  afterwards  enlarged  and  confirmed 
by  Queen  Elizabeth.  §  At  the  close  of  the  maiden  reign  tin  was  searched  for 
successfully,  both  in  stream  works  and  in  lodes ;  and  the  practice  of  "  shoding" 
was  conducted  much  as  Borlase  describes  it  in  his  time.  The  commencement 
of  a  working  was  attained  by  the  association  of  several  persons  together, 
answering  to  modern  adventurers.  ||  Captains  were  appointed  over  the  work 
and  workmen,  who  superintended  the  timbering  of  the  mine,  and  the  pumps. 
The  labour  is  represented  as  very  severe.  They  went  to  the  depth  of  thirty 
or  forty  fathoms,  and  drew  the  miners  up  in  a  rope  stirrup.  A  good  work- 
man is  described  as  then  scarcely  able  to  hew  "  three  feet  in  three  weeks." 
They  drained  the  mine  by  pumps,  wheels,  and  adits.  The  mode  of  preparing 
and  stamping  the  tin  ore  was  very  similar  to  that  now  in  use.  The  raising  of 
copper  and  other  metallic  ores  had  little  place  in  the  county  until  the  com- 
mencement of  the  seventeenth  century,  although  they  were  raised  before  that 
period  in  quantities  comparatively  inconsiderable,  being  thought  of  little 
moment  compared  to  tin,  and  then  only  in  mines  opened  for  this  last  metal. 

The  mode  formerly  in  use  for  finding  a  "  lode,"  by  which  term  in  Cornwall 
is  understood  the  contents  of  a  fissure  in  the  strata,  in  other  places  called  a 
"  vein,"  whether  the  vein  consist  of  clay  or  mineral  substances  between  the 

*  Borlase  gives  an  engraving  of  some  of  these  blocks. 

f  In  the  reign  of  King  John,  the  tin  farm  of  Cornwall  had  fallen  to  the  value  of  66?.  13s.  4c/.,  while 
that  of  Devon  reached  100/.  per  annum.  In  1213  the  farm  to  the  Earl  of  Cornwall  was  200  marks 
only  for  Cornwall,  and  200/.  for  Devon.  In  1820  the  dues  to  the  Duke  of  Cornwall  for  tin  were,  for 
Cornwall,  11,080/.,  for  Devonshire,  45/.  17s.  9c/. ;  or,  for  the  entire  duchy,  11,125/.  17s.  9c/. 

X  From  stean,  old  Cornish  for  tin  ;  perhaps  from  the  Latin,  stannum. 

§  An  act  was  passed,  6  &  7  Will.  IV.  c.  106,  by  which  the  ancient  Stannary  Courts  have  been 
remodelled.  The  Vice-Warden  is  to  be  a  barrister  of  five  years'  standing,  with  an  appeal  from  him 
to  the  Lord  Warden  and  to  the  House  of  Lords. 

||  The  scrip  system  has  been  introduced  of  late  years,  but  with  little  real  advantage. 


CORNWALL.  209 

walls  of  such  fissure  or  chink,  was  clever  and  scientific.  Of  the  walls  or  sides 
thus  bounding  a  lode,  one  may  be  hard  and  the  other  soft,  or  both  may  be  of 
one  substance,  as  if  it  had  been  cracked  asunder,  and  filled  up  with  the  lode; 
but  generally  the  sides  are  harder  than  the  matter  of  which  the  lode  itself 
consists.  Sometimes  they  are  perpendicular,  but  more  frequently  they  incline 
with  no  uniform  direction ;  and  sometimes,  though  rarely,  they  run  horizon- 
tally a  certain  distance,  and  are  then  called  "  floors."  The  fissures  enclosing 
the  lodes  are  of  various  lengths  and  breadths,  but  the  course  of  the  larger — 
the  smaller,  in  many  cases,  seem  to  constitute  branches  which  ramify  into 
those  still  smaller,  and  end  in  mere  threads,  all  which  are  thus  really 
dependent  on  the  larger,  joining  the  main  fissure  at  right  angles — the  course 
of  the  larger  is  generally  east  and  west,  though  there  are  some  that  have  a 
north  and  south  direction,  but  in  neither  case  directed  exactly  to  those 
quarters  of  the  compass ;  their  depth  is  unknown,  no  lode  of  moment  having 
ever  been  cut  out,  being  given  up  from  expense  in  working.  The  fissures,  and 
consequently  the  lodes  they  contain, — we  shall  in  future  use  the  latter  term 
alone, — whatever  may  be  their  direction,  run  in  an  irregular  wavy  line, 
curving  here  and  there,  and  alternately  deviating  from  and  recovering  a  right 
course,  the  curves  generally  greater  when  the  lode  crosses  a  valley.*  The 
summit  of  the  lode — the  reader  will  imamne  the  vegetable  earth  removed — 
consists  of  loose  stones,  called  "  shodes,"  which,  on  the  side  of  a  hill,  have 
been  dispersed  uniformly  in  a  downward  direction,  the  smallest  being  the 
furthest  removed  from  the  lode,  and  carrying  a  rounded  appearance. 

"Lode"  comes  from  "lead,"  because  it  leads  to  the  mineral  substance 
sought  within  it,  and  found  in  different  parts  of  its  substance,  whether  clay, 
stone,  or  any  other  mineral  matter;  but  generally  the  greater  part  of  the 
lode  partakes  of  the  nature  of  the  adjoining  strata,  though  this  is  far  from 
being  a  rule. 

The  top  of  the  lode  once  within  the  fissure,  consisting  of  broken  stones,  part 
of  the  lode  itself,  distributed,  as  if  driven  down  the  side  of  the  hill  by  some 
deranging  force,  is  called  the  "  broil  of  the  lode,"  and  is  generally  covered  by 
the  soil.  It  is  found  undisturbed,  resting  on  and  forming  the  termination  of 
the  lode  itself  when  stiff  clay  is  present,  which,  rising  above  the  sides  of  the 
fissure,  and  preventing  its  dissipation,  retains  it  over  the  parent  lode ;  but  this 
is  not  commonly  the  case.  On  level  grounds  the  broil  lies  near  the  lode, 
scarcely  scattered  any  distance.  On  a  declivity,  the  steeper  it  may  be  the 
further  down  are  the  stones  composing  the  broil  found;  the  smallest  the 
furthest  off,  the  largest  retained  nearest  the  lode,  and  deepest  in  the  surface  of 
the  ground,  and  multiplying  as  the  lode  is  approached.  They  differ  from 
the  stones  of  the  soil  where  they  rest,  both  in  colour  and  form,  having  their 
angles  abraded,  the  more  as  they  are  further  from  the  lode.  The  following 
sketch  will  give  a  correct  idea  of  a  lode,  its  broil,  and  shodes.     Here  the  head 

*  Borlasc. 
E  E 


210 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


vegetative 


B  B 


soil 


of  the  lode  a    is   shown 
beneath     the 
surface  of  the 
the   broil  c  c  c,  growing 
larger  and  deeper  as  it  ap- 
proaches the  head  of  the 
lode  a.     Becoming  at  d  d 
shallower  as  it  approaches  the  surface  at  e,  as   well  as  smaller,    it   there 
becomes  discoverable  just  beneath  or  above  the  roots  of  the  herbage. 

Pits,  a  few  feet  deep,  called  "  shoding  shafts,"  are  sunk  over  some  breadth 
of  ground  at  e  in  the  above  diagram,  and  are  repeated  at  varying  distances  up 
the  hill,  as  the  shodes,  or  stones  of  the  broil,  or  head  of  the  lode,  increase  in 
size,  until  at  length  the  lode  itself  is  found.  The  shodes  sometimes  contain 
no  ore  at  all,  and  are  seldom  so  well  impregnated  as  the  lode  they  cover, 
which  is  itself  not  equally  impregnated,  and  sometimes  is  wholly  barren.  The 
smaller  the  lode  the  better  it  is  impregnated ;  some  are  not  more  than  a  foot 
wide,  others  are  two,  and  some  from  six  to  twenty ;  their  length  often  from 
two  to  six  miles.  Lodes  consist  of  both  hard  and  soft  stone,  and  ore  is  found 
equally  in  both ;  but  in" the  last  more  scattered  than  in  the  first.  Lodes,  we  have 
before  observed,  generally  dip  or  incline,  but  in  no  uniform  manner ;  they  are 
also  found  fractured  and  shifted,  so  that  the  miner  loses  the  vein  by  encounter- 
ing what  some  call  a  "  fault,"  the  effect  of  a  violent  terrene  convulsion,  which 
is  speedily  recovered  by  driving  in  the  direction  experience  dictates  when  a 
lode  is  thus  "  heaved,"  or  "  started,"  as  they  term  it.*  The  art  of  shoding  is 
now  in  a  great  measure  neglected,  f 

The  metal  for  which  Cornwall  is  most  celebrated  is  tin ;  and  the  lode  being- 
found,  a  mine  is  opened,  which  will  be  found  to  contain,  perhaps,  both  tin  and 
copper,  the  latter  lying  deepest.  Besides  being  discovered  in  perpendicular  or 
inclined  lodes,  tin  is  found  in  horizontal  layers,  sometimes  extending  from  the 
lode  itself.  These  floors  are  considered  very  dangerous,  the  strongest  wooden 
supports  commonly  used  being  apt  to  give  way  and  bury  the  miners,  as  hap- 
pened, according  to  Borlase,  in  Lennant,  where  all  under  ground,  and  all 
above,  within  the  fatal  circle,  perished.  Tin  ore  is  discovered  in  bunches  and 
spots  in  the  body  of  the  stone,  without  the  slightest  fissure  or  intersection,  or 
else  it  may  intersect  the  stone  like  veins  in  marble.     The  purest  is  found  in 


*  It  is  almost  always  recovered  by  working  to  the  right ;  the  fractured  end  of  one  lode  was  lost  for 
forty  years  and  then  recovered, — a  solitary  case. 

■f  There  are  few,  it  appears,  who  practise  shoding  at  present.  The  mode  adopted  to  find  a  lode  is 
by  exploring  cliffs  or  rents  in  the  soil ;  by  arsenical  impregnations  discovered  on  burning  the  soil  for 
agricultural  purposes ;  by  sinking  a  small  shaft  where  the  gossan,  or  substance  of  a  lode,  is  acci- 
dentally discovered  ;  and  by  certain  appearances,  often  fallacious,  which  present  themselves  to  the 
miner,  and  afford,  in  his  opinion,  the  chance  of  success.  The  larger  and  more  important  Cornish  mines 
now  open,  except  those  near  Fowey,  are  works  of  old  date,  which  the  want  of  powerful  machinery  and 
nn  improved  system  of  mining  prevented  from  being  adequately  worked. 


CORNWALL.  211 

what  are  called  stream  works,  being  among  the  alluvial  deposits  from  the  hills, 
through  which  a  stream  generally  takes  its  course,  the  soil  being  washed,  and 
the  tin  picked  out.  The  principal  stream  works  are  at  St.  Stephens  in 
Brannel,  St.  Ewe,  St.  Blazey,  and  at  Carnon,  between  Truro  and  Falmouth. 
Here  the  tin  is  found  in  the  shape  of  pebbles,  or  small  stones,  evidently  the 
washings  down  of  the  hills,  at  some  time  immemorial ;  and  these  supply  the 
richest  and  best  tin,  while  from  these  stream  works  gold  in  grains  is  frequently 
extracted.* 

In  the  stream  works  human  remains  have  been  found  in  unbroken  alluvial 
soil  among  wood,  leaves,  nuts,  and  remains  of  animals,  fifty-three  feet  beneath 
the  mud  and  sand ;  and  at  Pentuan,  forty  feet  beneath  similar  accumulations, 
with  the  remains  of  deer,  oxen,  and  whales. 

The  tin  ore  is  separated  by  stamping  and  washing  from  all  extraneous  sub- 
stances, and  is  then  carried  to  the  smelting-house,  where  it  is  cast  into  blocks, 
and  delivered  ready  for  the  merchant.  The  stamping  mill  consists  of  upright 
beams  of  wood,  shod  each  with  a  square  block  of  two  hundred  weight  of  iron, 
which,  lifted  by  cogs  in  the  barrel  of  a  water  wheel,  fall  upon  the  tin  stone  alter- 
nately, crushing  it  small.  The  "stamps"  are  continually  fed  from  a  hatch, 
or  species  of  hopper,  at  the  back,  into  which  water  is  introduced ;  while  in 
front,  by  means  of  a  perforated  plate  of  iron,  the  tin,  stamped  sufficiently  fine, 
passes  out,  and  falls  into  a  hollow,  which  when  full  is  emptied,  the  upper  part 
being  the  richest  in  ore,  and  carried  to  be  "  huddled."  This  last  operation 
takes  place  in  a  pit,  about  seven  feet  long,  three  wide,  and  two  deep,  at  the 
head  of  which  is  a  small  inclined  board,  called  the  "jigging  board,"  upon 
which  the  pulverized  ore  is  placed  in  ridges,  in  the  course  of  a  small  stream  of 
water,  brought  to  run  evenly  over  it,  while  the  "  buddler,"  as  one  portion 
is  washed  down,  supplies  a  fresh  quantity,  at  the  same  time  moving  his  feet, 
on  which  he  wears  wooden  clogs  for  the  purpose,  over  the  surface  of  what  has 
been  carried  down,  that  the  lighter  particles  may  be  borne  to  the  lower  part  of 
the  pit.  The  ore  is  afterwards  placed  in  a  large  vat,  or  "  keeve,"  half  filled 
with  water,  which  is  kept  continually  stirred,  the  ore  being  introduced  by 
degrees,  Avhile  the  sides  of  the  vat  are  struck  by  boys,  until  the  heaviest  part 
has  settled  hard,  when  the  impure  water  is  taken  away,  and  several  other 
manipulations  employed  to  obtain  a  still  greater  degree  of  freedom  from 
extraneous  matter.  Arsenical  substances,  iron  pyrites,  and  sulphuret  of 
copper  in  the  ore,  render  the  further  process  of  "roasting"   necessary,  for 

*  The  following  is  a  section  of  the  stream  works  of  Par  in  St  Blazey  : —  Ft.  In. 

Kiver  deposit 16 

Mud,  sand,  clay 7     0 

Mud,  clay,  and  vegetable  matter 8     0 

Fine  sand,  shells,  like  cockles,  under  pebbles 4     0 

Mud,  clay,  sand,  wood  nuts,  and  mingled  vegetable  productions     .  3     0 
Tin  ground  resting  upon  slate,  from  6  feet  to  6  inches  thick. 


212  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

which  purpose  it  is  exposed  to  the  necessary  degree  of  heat  in  a  furnace  con- 
structed for  the  purpose,  called  the  "  roasting  furnace."  After  this,  the  ore  is 
again  buddled,  and  treated  as  before,  and  "  trunked  and  framed,"  Avhich  is  but  a 
more  careful  and  exact  method  of  buddling,  frequently  of  late  years  performed 
by  machinery,  until  further  working  Avill  not  repay  cost.  The  ore  is  now 
ready  for  smelting,  and  is  sampled  for  sale  to  the  smelter,  either  by  private 
contract,  or  at  stated  meetings  for  that  purpose,  called  "  ticketings."  In  1837 
about  4 105 1  tons  of  tin  ore  were  sold  in  the  latter  way,  being  that  formerly 
adopted  for  copper  alone,  raised  in  seventy-two  mines.  The  prices  per  ton 
varied  from  58/.  down  to  28/.  2s.  4d. ;  total  at  ticketings,  190,721/.  4s.  lid. ; 
sold  by  private  contract,  and  coined  by  private  adventurers,  172,601/.  lis.  5d.; 
giving  a  total  value  for  tin  ore  that  year  of  363,322/.  16s.  4d*  The  average 
of  the  return  for  the  Duchy  may  be  about  395,000/.  per  annum.  The  tin  ore 
being  smelted,  what  is  called  grain  tin,  the  produce  of  stream  works,  is  most 
valued,  as  being  purest ;  that  from  the  ore  is  called  block-tin,  which  last  is 
subdivided  into  block-tin  and  refined  tin,  the  latter  being  subjected  to  a  pro- 
cess giving  it  greater  purity  than  the  former.  The  old  mode  of  coinage  on 
payment  of  the  duty,  which  consisted  of  cutting  a  piece  out  of  the  corner  of 
each  block,  f  was  abolished  in  1838,  together  with  the  duties,  which  had  been 
paid  for  six  centuries,  and  a  compensation  in  lieu  of  them  given  to  the 
Duchy. 

Copper,  which  was  neglected  until  the  commencement  of  the  seventeenth 
century,  and  from  which  money  was  not  coined  until  1717,  at  present  takes 
the  lead  in  Cornish  mining.!  The  value  of  the  ores,  upon  the  best  authority, 
that  of  the  great  grandfather  of  the  present  Sir  Charles  Lemon,  whose  career 

*  De  la  Beche,  p.  584. 

f  The  blocks  weighed  each  from  3  34  to  3  35  cwts.  The  produce  of  tin  in  Cornwall  in  1780  was 
19,022  blocks  ;  in  1838,  29,321.  About  a  nineteenth  of  the  total  produce  was  grain  tin.  The  follow- 
ing is  the  result  of  the  tin  coinage  of  1838  for  the  Duchy  of  Cornwall : — 


Grain  Tin. 

Com.  Tin. 

Total. 

In  the  coinage 

town 

of  Truro  .     . 

.     1,345 

.     8,952     . 

10,297  blocks 

V 

>> 

Penzance 

'                 >» 

.   12,423     . 

12,423      „ 

» 

»> 

Hayle .     . 

118 

.     5,334     . 

5,452      „ 

1> 

yj 

Calstock  . 

»» 

393     . 

393      „ 

■» 

j) 

Morwelham 

82 

674     . 

756      „ 

Cornwall. 


Devonshire. 

Tin  ore  is  smelted  with  coals  in  a  reverberatory  furnace ;  charcoal  was  used  until  no  more  wood  could  be 
obtained.  Blowing  furnaces  were  also  once  used,  but  only  one  now  remains  at  work  in  the  county. 
Polberrou,  a  tin  mine  in  the  parish  of  St.  Agnes,  seems  to  have  returned  the  richest  ore,  some  not  re- 
quiring to  be  dressed  ;  one  piece  of  ore  weighing  664  lbs.,  and  giving  11 J  out  of  20,  without  dressing  ; 
another  piece  from  the  same  mine  weighing  1,200  lbs.  equally  rich.  The  ores  of  tin  found  are  tin 
pyrites  in  very  small  quantity,  and  the  peroxide,  varying  in  its  constituent  parts ;  one  specimen,  with 
a  specific  gravity  of  6-945,  gave  Dr.  Thomson, 

Peroxide  of  tin  96-265  Peroxide  of  iron.  ) 

i   3*395 

Silica 0-750  Sesquioxide  of  manganese.) 

X  The  total  of  copper  ore  raised  in  1771  was  27,896  tons,  which  produced  12  per  cent,  of  pure 
copper;  in  1837,  the  number  of  tons  was  142,785,  producing  8J  per  cent.,  arising  from  the  improve- 
ments in  smelting  continually  bringing  lower  priced  ores  into  the  market. 


CORNWALL. 


213 


was  an  era  in  Cornish  mining,  did  not  yield,  for  fourteen  years  previous  to 
1758,  more  than  160,000/.  per  annum.  And  yet  in  1757,  Huel  Virgin,  now 
at  work,  produced  in  the  first  fortnight  5,700/.,  with  an  outlay  of  100/.;  an 
example  of  good  fortune  perhaps  never  surpassed.*  The  copper  ores  are  sold 
on  certain  days,  called  ticketing  days,  at  Truro,  Redruth,  and  Pool,  upon 
which  attend  the  agents  for  the  ores  to  be  sold,  and  those  of  eight  or  nine 
copper  companies,  who,  having  previously  sampled  the  ores  through  their  assay 
masters,  purchase  the  whole  that  is  for  sale,  which  they  transport  to  Wales  for 
smelting ;  the  vessels  returning  with  coal  for  the  mines.  The  prices  of  the 
ores  differ  according  to  their  richness ;  some  bringing  20/.  per  ton,  and  some 
only  40s.  At  one  of  these  sales  3323  tons  of  ore  may  be  sold,  calculated  to 
produce  266  tons  15  cwt.  of  fine  copper;  the  amount  of  sale,  20,124/.  5s.; 
the  standard  being  109/.  14s.  The  whole  of  such  a  sale  is  so  well  and  simply 
regulated,  that  the  business  is  completed  in  an  hour  or  two,  although  there 
may  be  fifty  different  qualities  of  ore  sold,  and  all  at  different  prices,  the  pro- 
duce of  a  dozen  different  mines. 


The  copper  ore  is  broken  small,  picked,  dressed,  and  placed  in  heaps,  at  the 
mine,  ready  to  remove,  as  seen  in  the  above  cut ;  and  from  each  heap,  classed , 


*  If  we  take  the  total  value  of  copper  raised  in  Cornwall  at  910,000/.,  the  tin  at  390,000/.,  and  other 
metals  at  19,000/.,  we  shall  have  a  total  of  1,319,000/. ;  but  this  amount  must  necessarily  fluctuate  with 
the  standard  of  value.  The  number  of  mines  in  which  copper  alone  is  found  it  is  not  easy  to  desig- 
nate, as  both  tin  and  copper  are  raised  in  the  same  mines,  and  discoveries  are  continually  taking  place 
in  this  respect,  which  alter  their  character ;  a  little  time  ago  the  number  of  copper  mines  was  reckoned 
to  he  85.  Nor  is  it  easy  to  calculate  the  aggregate  profit  and  loss  upon  these  mines,  for  if  in 
one  mine  enormous  profits  are  made,  there  are  heavy  losses  on  others.    Large  sums  haw  been  gained 


214  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

according  to  the  miner's  judgment,  the  samples  are  taken  and  assayed,  a  reason- 
able time  being  given  for  the  purpose.  On  the  day  appointed  for  the  sale, 
the  samplers  attending  produce  a  sealed  ticket  of  the  price  they  will  give  for 
ore ;  and  he  whose  ticket  is  highest  takes  the  ore  on  the  part  of  the  copper 
company  for  whom  he  acts. 

The  lead  mines  of  Cornwall  are  of  little  comparative  moment,  being  few  in 
number;  and  the  ore  raised,  though  oftentimes  the  galena  has  been  rich  in 
silver,  amounts  to  not  more  than  100  tons  annually ;  although  from  the 
middle  of  the  sixteenth  century  to  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth,  some  lead 
mines  near  Helston  were  worked  to  great  advantage.  The  lead  mine  of  Gar- 
ras,  near  Truro,  produced  100  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton  of  lead;  there  were 
other  mines  that  yielded  forty  or  fifty  ounces  to  the  ton. 

Silver  has  been  raised  in  several  mines  opened  for  that  metal  alone ;  as  at 
Huel  Herland,  in  Gwinear,  which  produced  about  8000/.  in  native  silver,  arse- 
niate,  and  sulphuret  of  silver.  About  2000/.  value  was  found  in  Dolcoath 
mine,  in  one  year;  and  at  Huel  Duchy  and  Huel  Brothers,  in  the  north  of  the 
county,  native,  ruby,  and  grey  silver  ores,  as  well  as  the  sulphuret,  were  ob- 
tained ;  as  also  in  St.  Mewan  and  Cubert.  At  Huel  Mexico,  horn  silver  and 
some  rare  varieties  of  ore  were  discovered ;  but  the  profits  of  the  silver  mines 
of  Cornwall  have  been  too  small  to  compete  with  the  exhaustless  stores  of  the 
other  metallic  substances  it  contains ;  and  capital  is  naturally  directed  where 
the  largest  gain  is  accessible. 

Gold  has  only  been  found  native  in  the  tin  stream  works  by  the  miners, 
who  collect  the  grains  in  quills,  and  sell  them  to  the  jewellers.  The  largest 
piece  found  weighed  15  dwts.  3  grs. ;  the  total  quantity  is  so  small  as  to  make 
it  no  object  of  mining  adventure. 

Manganese  is  principally  raised  near  Launceston,  generally  the  pyrolusite  or 
grey  and  black  ores  ;  the  exact  quantity  it  is  not  easy  to  ascertain.  It  has  also 
been  raised  on  Tregoss  moors.* 


^er 


and  lost  by  mining.  Huel  Alfred,  in  Hayle,  cleared  130,000/. ;  Crinnis  returned  84,000/.  in  a  twelve- 
month clear  gain  ;  and  Huel  Vor  divided  10,000/.  in  three  months.  About  1760,  Polgooth  returned 
a  profit  of  20,000/.  a-year,  for  several  years  ;  and  Polberrou,  in  St.  Agnes,  cleared  40,000/.  in  one  year. 
On  the  other  hand,  the  loss  on  North  Downs  alone  has  been  estimated  at  90,000/.  That  the  aggregate 
of  gain  upon  the  whole  of  the  mines  together  is  very  moderate,  may  naturally  be  presumed  when  the 
number  of  such  adventures  that  fail  is  taken  into  account. 

*  Not  to  occupy  space  in  the  text  with  little  more  than  a  bare  enumeration  of  names,  we  may  add 
here  to  the  other  mineral  substances  above, — cobalt ;  nickel ;  bismuth  ;  antimony  ;  sulphuret  of  zinc, 
or  calamine,  literally  thrown  away  ;  iron,  magnetic,  hematite,  pyrites,  specular,  menaccanite,  spathose, 
near  the  Lizard,  sub-carburet,  brown,  cuprous  arseniate  of,  all  the  known  crystallizations  of  the 
common  sulphuret  and  arseniate,  this  metal  occurring  in  more  varied  forms  than  any  other  found  in 
the  county  ;  the  various  mineral  forms  of  tin  and  copper  are  some  of  them  rare,  and  discovered  no- 
where else ;  those  of  copper  in  one  collection  amount  to  a  thousand  varieties.  The  prevalent  forms 
of  copper  are  the  bisulphuret ;  sulphuret,  called  locally  grey  copper,  with  which  tennantite  is  sometimes 
found ;  arseniate  and  carbonate  ;  red  oxide  in  varieties ;  native,  the  largest  mass  ever  found  weighing 
112  1b.;  phospbate,  yellow  ore,  cubed  ruby,  green  carbonate,  blue  ditto,  olive  copper  ore,  triple  sul- 
phuret— also  wolfram,  uranite,  carbonate  of  lead,  triple  sulphuret  of  antimony  and  of  lead,  oxide  of  tin, 


CORNWALL.  215 

Iron  ores  in  endless  variety,  both  of  kind  and  value,  are  generally  left  un- 
touched, except  what  are  wanted  for  foundries  in  the  county ;  they  occur  in 
many  different  places ;  some  few  have  been  exported. 

No  one  may  open  a  mine  in  Cornwall  where  he  pleases:  leave  must  be 
obtained  of  the  lord  of  the  soil  if  the  ground  be  enclosed ;  but  if  it  be  waste 
land,  and  no  bounds  are  marked  out  upon  it,  the  first  step  is  to  bound  the 
spot,  which  any  one  may  do  by  digging  small  pits  at  certain  distances,  within 
the  limit  of  which  he  may  work,  or  allow  others  to  work,  for  ores.  The  lord 
of  the  soil  receives  a  portion  of  the  ores  raised,  varying  from  a  sixth  to  an 
eighth  of  the  value,  in  many  cases  amounting  to  a  very  large  sum  of  money 
from  land  utterly  unfit  for  any  agricultural  purpose.  On  commencing  to 
work  a  mine,  the  water  soon  renders  any  secondary  efforts  to  keep  it  dry  of  no 
avail ;  and  it  becomes  necessary  to  have  recourse  to  a  steam  engine  for  that 
purpose,  and  to  all  the  auxiliaries  which  form  a  perfect  mining  establishment. 
These  are  of  an  extensive  nature,  involving  a  great  expenditure,  not  less  from 
the  number  of  persons  employed,  than  from  the  machinery  used,  and  the 
different  articles  in  constant  consumption.  It  appears  that  the  number  of 
individuals  actually  employed  at  present  upon  the  mines  of  Cornwall  is  little 
short  of  28,000  or  30,000 ;  and  that  the  number  of  men,  women,  and  children, 
varies  from  a  total  of  only  half  a  dozen  to  3000  and  upwards  on  a  single  mine. 
Thus  the  Consolidated  Mines  employ  1730  men,  869  women,  and  597  children  ; 
total,  3196  ;  and  the  Fowey  Consols  a  total  of  1706 ;  Cook's  Kitchen  employs 
but  247  ;  Huel  Prosper,  14 ;  and  West  Cliff  Down,  6.  Nor  is  it  easy  to  cal- 
culate the  number  of  mines;  but  Sir  Charles  Lemon  has  given  a  list  of  160, 
employing  about  27,000  persons. 

In  the  earlier  days  of  mining,  water  wheels  were  generally  used  for  the 
purpose  of  pumping ;  but  water  was  not  always  to  be  had,  near  or  far,  if  the 
cost  that  might  be  expended  to  bring  it  from  a  distance  were  of  no  moment. 
Many  mines  were  situated  upon  hills,  and  water  could  not  be  made  service- 
able above  its  own  level.  Horse-power  was  frequently  used,  and  gangs  of 
men,  who  relieved  each  other  spell  and  spell ;  but  all  were  inadequate  to  the 

muriate  of  tin,  sulphuret  of  tin,  known  only  in  this  county  ;  wood  tin  the  same ;  copper  and  lead  in 
cubes,  arseniate  of  lead  in  prisms  of  six  sides,  sulphuret  of  tin  and  copper  blended,  tetraedal  crystals  of 
sulphuret  of  zinc ;  tungsten  only  at  Pengelly  in  Breage,  though  its  ferriferous  oxide,  or  wolfram,  is  more 
common  ;  oxide  of  uranium  in  uran-glimmer,  titanium  ;  crystallized  carbonate  and  phosphate  of  lead  in 
combination  with  sulphuric  acid  in  crystals ;  a  very  rare  species  of  arseniate  of  lead  ;  braunite,  psil- 
monite,  bisilicate  of  manganese;  purple  copper  ore,  arborescent  native  copper,  hydrous  oxide  of  iron, 
epidote,  clorite,  axinite,  calcedony  of  many  varieties,  jasper,  jaspery  iron  ore,  arragonite,  prehnite, 
stilbite,  zeolite,  apatite,  radiated  mesotype,  pinite,  plumbago,  antimony  and  lead ;  sulphuret  of  tin — 
fluor  spar  and  wolfram  ;  mica  crystallized  in  tables ;  topazes  in  greenish  or  whitish  crystals  ;  carbo- 
nate of  copper  and  tin  crystals  ;  rock  crystals,  the  same  grouped ;  amethystine  quartz,  and  common 
ditto ;  asbestus  actynolite,  stalactical  calcedony,  adularia,  crystallized  apatite,  wavellite,  cubic  and 
with  bevilled  edges,  and  octohaedral  crystals  of  fluor,  or  fluat  of  lime,  carbonate  and  ferriferous  car- 
bonate of  lime,  the  last  scarce.  These  and  other  mineralogical  substances,  ever  varying  in  form  and 
colour,  are  arranged  as  they  occur,  indiscriminately. 


216  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

purpose,  even  at  a  very  limited  depth  from  the  surface.  At  what  time  New- 
comen's  steam  engine  was  introduced  is  uncertain,  but  it  constituted  an  era  in 
mining,  until  it  gave  place  to  Watt's  engine,  about  1780,  which  caused  a  vast 
saving  of  fuel.  Watt's  engine,  and  that  of  Hornblower  with  double  cylinders, 
which  appeared  and  were  ado])ted  in  the  Cornish  mines  about  the  same  period, 
are  no  longer  used,  having  given  place  to  greater  improvements  by  Woolf, 
Trevithick,  and  others.  Watt's  engines,  singularly  enough,  while  they  effected 
a  vast  saving  in  fuel,  a  great  object  of  the  miners,  did  not  show  a  propor- 
tional increase  of  power;  for  in  1798  not  one  of  his  engines  reported  to  a 
committee,  who  sat  to  examine  the  subject,  did  more  duty  than  one  of 
Newcomen's  erected  by  Smeaton  in  1775,  and  did  not  permit  the  mine  to 
be  deepened.  Hornblower's  father  came  into  the  county  as  a  builder  of 
Newcomen's  engines,  about  1744,  and  was  residing  at  Polgooth  in  1749, 
and  the  son  took  out  a  patent  in  1781,  for  working  steam  expansively  in 
a  double  cylinder.  Watt  did  the  same  to  apply  it  to  his  engines ;  but  both 
were  too  much  afraid  of  high  pressure  steam,  to  risk  it  with  the  boilers 
of  that  day.*  Engines  are  now  manufactured  far  better  than  they  could 
be  made  in  those  days ;  resistances  are  reduced,  the  powers  are  enlarged,  the 
air  pump  is  less  bui'dened  from  steam,  the  double  beat  valves  of  Horn- 
blower  being  introduced,  by  which  high  pressure  steam  is  easily  managed ;  a 
pressure  of  3000  lb.  being  reduced  to  800,  by  the  steam  pressure  acting 
on  the  plating  of  the  circumference,  and  not  on  the  entire  valve,  f  Woolf 
introduced  high  pressure  steam,  worked  expansively  in  an  engine  like  Horn- 
blower's,  about  1816,  and  beat  all  competitors  until  1827  ;  when  Trevithick's 
boilers  being  introduced,  high  pressure  steam  was  used  in  single  cylinder 
engines ;  and  further  improvements  being  effected,  the  present  superior  en- 
gines were  constructed. 

We  are  thus  minute  because  we  shall  presently  state  the  enormous  power 
and  duty  of  the  existing  steam  engines  of  Cornwall,  of  which  so  little  is  known 
out  of  the  county,  and  which  have  no  parallel  elsewhere.  Thus  the  reader 
sees  accounts  of  the  wonderful  works  of  the  steam  engine  in  Lancashire  and 
Birmingham,  and  imagines  naturally  enough  that  a  beautiful  engine  adapted 
by  Watt  to  a  manufacturing  purpose  is  repeated  in  Cormvall,  or  that  the 
engines  seen  in  the  coal  mines  of  Staffordshire  and  Lancashire  are  precisely 
the  same ;  never  was  there  a  greater  mistake.  The  power,  magnitude,  duty, 
and,  in  many  cases,  the  construction,  are  very  different.  The  worst  engines 
now  imported  in  Cornwall  reach  the  average  duty  of  Watt's  four  best  working 
there  in  1798,  and  are  of  less  bulk;  and  these  engines  are  now  manufactured 
in  the  county. 

At  Wigan  in  Lancashire  there  are  about  115  engines,  with  a  power  of  2113 
horses,  a  power  not  more  than  ecpial  to  two  Cornish  engines.    In  order,  there- 
fore, to  give  an  idea  of  one  of  these  enormous  machines,  we  quote  an  account 
*   Dc  la  Bcchc,  from  Mr.  Enys.  f  Mi\  Enys. 


CORNWALL.  2  1  7 

of  one  at  the  Consolidated  Mines/constructed  by  a  Cornish  engineer,  Mr.  Dave)', 
and  pumping  directly  from  a  depth  to  the  adit  of  1600  feet;  the  weight  of 
the  pumping  apparatus  being  507  tons  1  qr. ;  the  cost,  5236/.  It  burned  2859 
bushels  only,  or  120  tons,  of  coal  in  thirty  days,*  and  made  in  that  time  269,200 
lifts  of  8*75  feet  in  the  shaft;  pumping  up  the  1600  feet,  thirty-three  and  a 
half  gallons  each  lift,  and  discharging  them  at  the  adit,  and  delivering  forty- 
five  gallons  more  to  the  surface  at  each  stroke  ;  to  effect  which  a  weight  of 
more  than  300  tons  is  set  in  motion  and  balanced,  except  the  weight  of  the 
column  of  water  in  the  shaft,  which  last  weighs  38  tons  3  cwt.  The  main 
pump  rod  is  290  fathoms,  or  1740  feet  long;  formed  for  390  feet  of  two 
twelve-inch  squares  of  Riga  balk  timber,  each  piece  from  fifty  to  seventy  feet 
long,  and  afterwards  of  fifteen-inch,  decreasing  to  fourteen  and  twelve  in 
descending  the  mine ;  the  whole  in  its  height,  more  than  one-third  of  a  mile 
perpendicular,  connected  by  iron  straps,  and  kept  in  a  proper  place  by  forty 
guides  fixed  to  the  sides  of  the  shaft.  Here  is  a  Cycloprcan  engine,  almost 
without  parallel  in  the  history  of  machinery.  The  steam  pressure  on  the 
piston  is  eighty  tons,  diminishing  to  eighteen  at  the  end  of  the  stroke  ;  and  the 
leverage  of  the  main  beam  balancing  the  friction,  or  resistance  of  the  engine, 
the  above  steam  pressure  overcomes  the  resistance  in  the  pit,  and  elevates  the 
load  of  thirty-eight  tons  every  lift.  In  Cornwall,  nearly  thirty  years  ago, 
there  were  engines  of  between  1000  and  1100  horse  power.  Even  to  an  eye 
practised  in  machinery  of  magnitude,  the  first  sight  of  one  of  these  engines, 
and  a  due  examination  of  the  enormous  power  it  wields,  without  noise, — as 
was  observed  by  a  London  engineer,  "  with  none  of  the  noise  and  clash  of  a 
steam  engine  at  the  London  water-wTorks,  and  so  easy  to  be  managed,  that  a 
child  of  ten  years  of  age  may  stop  or  set  it  working," — is  truly  surprising.! 
Elsewhei'e  the  ingenuity  of  the  steam  engine  may  be  contemplated,  but  the 
full  development  of  its  power  is  as  yet  only  to  be  seen  in  Cornwall.  Still 
further  to  evince  the  truth  of  this  remark,  we  may  add  that  a  counter  is  kept 
locked,  attached  to  each  engine,  which  returns  the  work  it  performs,  monthly ; 
and  the  coals  being  measured  from  what  have  been  consumed  in  that  time,  the 
result  is  published  in  what  are  called  "  duty  papers."  In  one  case,  at  the 
Consolidated  Mines,  there  is  an  engine  of  Mr.  Taylor's,  with  an  eighty-five 
inch  cylinder,  having  a  load  of  1 1  '46  on  the  piston,  a  length  of  stroke  in  the 

*  One  of  Newcomen's  or  "Watt's  engines,  where  the  mine  was  deep,  pumped  the  water  half  way  up, 
and  a  second  engine  lifted  it  to  the  surface.  This  arose  from  the  fear  already  mentioned,  on  the  part 
of  Watt,  as  well  as  of  Hornblower,  with  the  engine  of  the  latter,  that  the  boilers  of  their  time  could 
not  be  trusted ;  for  both  were  well  aware  of  the  principle  of  the  present  improvement.  Newcomen's 
engine  worked  at  ninety  fathoms.  In  1798,  Watt's  engine  gave  an  average  duty  of  seventeen  and  a 
half  millions  of  pounds,  at  200  fathoms,  with  a  sixty-three  inch  double  cylinder ;  the  modern 
engines  give  fifty  millions,  at  a  depth  of  290  fathoms,  wif.h  single  cylinders,  and  a  consumption 
of  coal  in  proportion  less  than  Watt's,  whose  saving  in  that  respect  was  so  great  compared  to 
Newcomen's. 

f  De  la  Beche. 

F  F 


218  ENGLAND    IN    THE    NINETEENTH    CENTURY. 

cylinder  of  10-33,  and  of  7*75  in  the  pump,  lifting  73,160,000  lb.  a  foot  high, 
with  the  consumption  of  a  bushel  of  coals.  Some  of  the  cylinders  are  ninety 
inch.  Austen's  Fowey  Consols  is  a  celebrated  engine  for  duty,  having  an 
eighty-inch  cylinder;  10*97  load  on  the  piston,  and  the  length  of  stroke  in  the 
pump  9*25  feet,  lifting  87,065,0001b.  a  foot  high,  by  the  consumption  of  one 
bushel  of  coals.*  The  greatest  quantity  of  water  discharged  from  any  of  the 
Cornish  mines,  per  minute,  in  1837,  was  from  the  United  Mines  in  the 
month  of  March,  1634*49  imperial  gallons;  and  from  the  Consolidated  Mines, 
1657*18  per  minute.  Sir  Charles  Lemon  ascertained  by  the  duty  paper 
that  the  whole  quantity  of  water  pumped  out  of  the  earth  by  sixty  Cornish 
engines  in  1837,  reached  the  amazing  aggregate  of  just  thirty-seven  millions 
of  tons ! f 

The  expenditure  of  money  for  mining  materials  is  great.  The  amount  for 
gunpowder  averages  13,200/.  annually  ;  the  consumption  being  about  300  tons. 
The  timber,  Norwegian  pine,  averaging  a  growth  of  120  years,  would  require 
140  square  miles  of  forest; J  a  drawback  is  allowed  on  the  duties.  The  con- 
sumption of  1836  was  36,200  loads,  or  144,800  trees.  In  1836  the  cost  of 
timber  imported  was  176,000/. ;  the  drawback  on  which  was  82,000/. 

The  expenses  of  the  Consolidated  and  United  Mines  for  one  year  were 
137,968/.  8s.  Id.;  the  receipt  for  ores  of  copper,  tin,  and  arsenic,  164,925/.  7  s.  5d., 
leaving  a  profit  of  26,956/.  19s.  4d.  There  was  a  loss  on  the  United  Mines  of 
10,680/.  19s.  2d. ;  both  undertakings  being  carried  on  as  one  concern.  The 
coals  consumed  were  15,270 tons;  candles,  162,144  lb. ;  gunpowder,  82,0001b. ; 
13,493  lb.  of  leather ;  pick  and  shovel  handles,  16,698  dozen ;  and  a  vast  quan- 
tity and  variety  of  other  articles.  The  total  number  of  hands  employed  was 
3196. 

The  rate  of  wages  among  the  work-people  at  the  mines  depends  upon  the 
nature  of  the  employment.  Tributers,  in  the  most  extended  mining  district 
about  Gwennap  and  liedruth,  may  average  through  the  year  about  68s.  per 
month  ;  tut  workers,  57s.  2d. ;  and  day  labourers,  41s.  Sometimes  a  tributer 
will  make  90s.  a  month,  or  more,  at  others  only  62s.  or  63s.,  as  his  profits  vary 
from  the  character  or  quantity  of  the  ores  he  may  raise. 

*  It  consumed  84  lb.  of  coals  an  hour.  "  This  is  a  most  splendid  engine,  and  does  greater  duty  than 
any  other  engine  in  Cornwall.  The  construction  of  the  valves  and  other  parts  of  the  engine  is  so 
perfect,  that,  though  its  load  was  equal  to  about  51,000  lb.,  the  hand  gear  might  be  worked  by  a  boy 
of  ten  years  of  age,  as  far  as  strength  -was  required.  I  worked  it  myself  with  perfect  ease  ;  whereas, 
although  a  load  upon  one  of  our  engines  of  thirty-six  inches  cylinder  is  only  about  12,000  lb.,  it  re- 
quires not  only  a  strong  but  also  a  weighty  man  to  work  it. 

"  I  was  very  much  struck  with  the  ease  with  which  the  engine  in  question  appeared  to  work ;  there 
was  scarcely  any  noise ;  the  greatest  was  that  of  the  steam  in  its  passage  through  the  expansion  valve. 
To  one  who  had  been  used  to  the  noise  of  the  pumping  engines  in  London,  it  appeared  remarkable." 
— Mr.  Wicks tead's  Observations,  Trans.  Civil  Engineers. 

t  The  enormous  quantity  of  43,500  hogsheads  has  been  pumped  up  in  twenty-four  hours  at  one 
mine,  Huel  Abraham,  from  1440  feet  of  depth. 

%  Sir  Charles  Lemon. 


CORNWALL.  219 

Proceeding  from  St.  Agnes  into  the  bordering  parish  of  Kemvyn,  towards 
Tregavethan,  three  large  barrows  are  seen  not  far  from  the  road ;  and  crossing 
the  road  from  the  westward,  four  more  are  discovered  on  the  southern  side. 
Tregavethan,  or  the  grave-town,  probably  took  its  name  from  these  tumuli;  it 
contains  a  chapel  and  burying  ground,  used  before  the  church  of  Kenwyn  was 
erected.  The  three  parishes  of  St.  Allen,  St.  Erme,  and  Ladock,  lie  on  the 
right  hand  of  the  road  to  Mitchel.  In  the  first  is  Trerice,  now  belonging 
to  Lord  Falmouth,  a  seat  of  one  of  the  younger  branches  of  the  Arundel 
family ;  here,  too,  were  the  lead  mines  of  Garras.  There  is  a  village  in  this 
parish  called  Zela,  and  an  eminence  named  Tolcarne,  or  "  the  lofty  rocks." 
St.  Erme  contains  the  estates  of  Tregosa,  Truthan,  Trehane,  and  Killigrew, 
the  last  the  original  estate  of  the  family  of  that  name,  afterwards  resident  at 
Arwenik,  mortgaged  by  Sir  John  Killigrew  in  the  reign  of  James  I.  to 
Mr.  Mitchel  of  Truro,  which  town  is  about  four  miles  distant.  It  is  now  the 
property  of  the  Stephens  family  of  Tregenna  Castle.  Polglaze,  another  estate 
of  the  same  family  here,  was  sold  about  the  same  time  to  Mr.  J.  Luxmore. 
The  advowson  of  the  living  once  belonged  to  the  family  of  Wynne,  and  is  now 
the  property  of  E.  W.  S.  Pendarves,  Esq.,  member  of  parliament  for  the  county. 
Ladock  is  principally  remarkable  for  comjmsing  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
valleys  in  Cornwall;  the  church,  situated  on  high  ground,  is  a  handsome 
edifice.  The  Rev.  St.  John  Eliot,  once  the  rector,  left  several  charitable 
bequests  for  education,  to  different  places  in  the  county;  he  died  in  1760. 
Mitchel  is  a  miserable  hamlet  in  St.  Enoder  parish,  which  returned  two  mem- 
bers to  parliament  before  the  Reform  Act,  elected  by  five  persons.  Summer- 
court,  Penhale,  and  Fraddon,  are  villages  in  this  parish ;  the  former  noted  for 
its  annual  fair.  The  parish  of  Newlyn  adjoins  St.  Enoder,  in  which  there  is 
an  old  manor  called  Cargol,  and  the  more  noted  manor  of  Trerice,  the  property 
of  John  Arundel,*  nicknamed  "  Tilbury,"  and  "  John  for  the  King,"  who  so 
bravely  defended  Pendennis  Castle  after  he  was  eighty  years  of  age ;  he  was 
with  Queen  Elizabeth  at  Tilbury,  whence  his  name  of  "  Old  Tilbury ;"  it  is 
now,  we  believe,  in  the  possession  of  a  farmer.  Here,  too,  was  worked  a  rich 
silver  and  lead  mine,  by  the  late  Sir  Christopher  Hawkins. 

*  He  seems  to  have  been  a  hard  man,  with  little  of  the  milk  of  human  kindness,  like  some  others  of 
the  king's  officers  in  the  west,  which  did  the  royal  cause  much  mischief.  The  Truro  people  would  not 
suffer  one  of  old  Arundel's  daughters  to  land  there  in  a  boat,  and  she  actually  died  on  the  river.  The 
Arundels  were  exceptions  to  the  kindness  and  civility  shown  by  the  gentry  of  Cornwall  to  each  other 
during  that  contest.  (See  page  18.)  John  Arundel  was  so  bitter,  that  Hals  says  he  suppressed  all 
natural  affection.  Colonel  Hals,  being  immured  in  Lidford  Castle,  wrote  to  old  Arundel,  stating  his 
sufferings,  but  he  only  got  a  verbal  reply,  that  he,  Arundel,  would  hasten  his  "  deliverance,  if  possible, 
by  a  gallows  execution."  Another  proof  of  the  ill  conduct  and  unrestrained  character  of  the  king's 
officers,  new  we  believe  to  history,  is  shown  by  Hals  in  his  Notes, — a  friend  to  the  royal  cause  as  he 
was.  When  Sir  W.  Balfour,  with  several  Cornish  gentlemen,  and  2500  horse,  cut  their  way  through 
the  king's  army  under  General  Goring,  whose  conduct  in  the  west  was  so  bad, — the  infantry  under 
the  Earl  of  Essex  were  soon  afterwards  forced  to  capitulate,  on  condition  of  being  disarmed  and  return- 
ing to  their  homes, — when  this  had  taken  place,  and  they  passed  before  the  king  on  Bradock  Downs 


220  ENGLAND    IN    THE    NINETEENTH    CENTURY. 

Cubert,  Crantock,  St.  Columb  Minor,  and  Colan,  lie  northwards  from 
Newlyn.  Cubert  contains  a  noted  well,  called  Holy  Well,  situated  on  the 
sea-shore ;  rumour  confers  many  virtues  upon  the  water,  which  probably  do 
not  belong  to  it,  but  have  grown  out  of  some  ancient  superstition.  It  is  on 
the  left  side  of  a  hollow  or  cave  in  the  rocks,  appears  to  deposit  a  slight 
incrustation,  and  is  perfectly  limpid ;  it  is  only  accessible  at  low  tide.  The 
church  of  Crantock  is  dedicated  to  St.  Carantocus ;  there  were  secular  canons 
there  in  the  time  of  Edward  the  Confessor.  An  inlet  of  the  sea,  meeting  a 
fresh-water  stream  called  the  Ganal,  separates  this  parish  from  St.  Columb 
Minor  and  Little  Colan,  the  former  being  bounded  by  the  sea ;  it  has 
an  inlet  with  a  quay  and  a  shelter  for  small  vessels,  called  Newquay,  where  a 
considerable  fishery  is  carried  on.  The  church  of  St.  Columb  Minor  is  one  of 
the  best  in  the  county,  and  was  pewed,  according  to  Hals,  Avith  black  oak,  in 
1525.  This  parish  and  the  district  went  in  Doomsday  Book  under  the  name 
of  Rialton,  and  it  possessed  certain  royalty  rights,  by  which  it  claimed,  in  the 
person  of  the  bailiff,  a  jurisdiction  over  the  whole  hundred  of  Pydar.  This 
name  is  supposed  to  have  been  derived  from  St.  Peter,  to  whom  or  to 
St.  Pedyr,  as  then  spelled,  there  was  a  chapel  dedicated,  and  probably  used 
before  the  church  was  built ;  there  are  also  some  remains  of  the  priory  once 
existing  here ;  they  stand  in  a  beautiful  valley,  and  consist  principally  of  the 
old  gateway,  with  three  windows  over  it;  the  arms  of  Prior  Vivian,  the 
founder,  yet  appear  upon  some  of  the  stones.  Sir  John  Munday,  a  Lord  Mayor 
of  London  in  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII.,  was  sent  down  to  be  steward  of  the 
manor.  In  Colan,  a  small  parish,  which  contains  nothing  remarkable,  was  an- 
ciently the  seat  of  Cosworth,  or  Cosaworth,  said  to  have  been  renowned  for  its 
woods,  of  which  no  vestiges  remain.  St.  Denis,  an  adjoining  parish,  in  the 
same  presentation  as  St.  Michael  Carhayes,  already  described,  together  with 
St.  Stephens  in  Brannel,  present  a  rough  surface  everywhere  turned  inside 
out  in  search  for  tin.  The  church  stands  in  miserable  solitude  upon  an  emi- 
nence. Mr.  D.  Gilbert  observes  that  Robert  Dunkin,  Avho  entered  the  list  of 
controversy  with  the  illustrious  Milton,  was  a  native  of  this  parish.  The  four 
parishes  of  Mawgan,  St.  Columb  Major,  St.  Wenn,  and  Withiel,  run  nearly 
from  west  to  east,  north  of  St.  Denis.  The  first  is  bounded  by  the  sea  on  the 
north,  and  by  St.  Columb  Minor  on  the  west.  Here  is  the  manor  of  Lan- 
herne,  originally  the  property  of  the  family  of  Pincerna,  and  afterwards  of  the 


they  were  "  barbarously  slaughtered  and  shot  upon  by  the  king's  troops,  so  that  many  perished ; 
others  were  stripped  almost  naked  and  robbed ;  others  had  their  horses  taken  away ;  upon  which 
Major-General  Skippen,  with  undaunted  courage,  rode  up  to  the  king's  troop,  and  told  him  personally 
of  the  injury  and  violence  offered,  and  the  slaughter  of  his  men,  contrary  to  the  articles,  which  in 
such  cases  were  kept  inviolable  by  all  nations  and  men,  and  therefore  prayed  the  king  to  be  just,  and 
to  prohibit  these  barbarities  of  his  soldiers  for  the  future,  which  the  king  commanded  to  be  done." 
But  his  authority  was  little  regarded  ;  and  his  conduct  produced  a  dreadful  retaliation  on  the  king's 
forces  and  adherents  in  other  places. 


CORNWALL.  221 

Arundels,  who  became  so  celebrated  in  the  county.  Symon  Pincerna,  who  was 
butler  to  Henry  II.,  together  with  his  male  issue  failing,  one  of  the  St.  Ervan 
Arundels  married  his  heiress  in  1231,  and  obtained  Lanherne.  The  Arun- 
dels were  said  to  be  derived  from  John  de  Arundel  in  the  time  of  Henry  I. ; 
and  the  first  public  character  of  the  family  appears  to  have  been  John 
Arundel,  Sheriff  of  Cornwall  in  1418.  In  this  parish,  too,  Avas  the  seat  of  the 
notorious  Noy,  or  Noye,  Attorney -General  to  Charles  I.,  who  set  out  as  a 
great  patriot  in  the  House  of  Commons,  until  he  exchanged  his  patriotism  for 
the  office  of  Attorney-General,  and,  "  holding  a  brief  on  the  opposite  side," 
filled  his  pockets  at  the  expense  of  his  character ;  when,  finding  his  advice 
gratefully  received,  he  persuaded  the  king  to  levy  ship  money,  send  vessels  to 
sea  without  consent  of  parliament,  and  to  take  other  measures  by  which  Charles 
effected  his  own  ruin.  The  estate,  once  Noy's,  is  called  Carnanton,  and  is 
now  the  property  of  the  family  of  Willyams  :  a  number  of  ancient  coins  have 
been  found  here,  principally  British. 


Lanherne,  the  seat  of  the  ".  Great  Arundels,"  as  they  were  once  called,  whose 
race  became  extinct  in  1701,  is  the  property  of  Lord  Arundel  of  Wardour. 
The  estates  were  left  to  his  grandson  by  the  last  Cornish  Arundel,  whose 
name  was  Billinge,  upon  condition  of  taking  the  name  of  Arundel;  and 
Mr.  Billinge  had  an  only  daughter,  by  marriage  with  whom  the  property  came 
to  Lord  Arundel  of  Wardour.  The  church  stands  by  a  little  river,  over 
which  there  is  a  bridge.  Hills  interpose  between  the  church  and  the  ocean, 
which  last  is  at  no  great  distance,  but  concealed  from  the  valley,  although 
from  one  side  of  the  hill  it  appears  in  great  majesty.  Close  to  the  church  is  the 
ancient  dwelling  of  the  extinct  Arundels,  now  occupied  as  a  religious  house  of 
Carmelite  nuns,  that  removed  from  Antwerp  at  the  time  of  the  French  revo- 
lution, and  have  been  protected  here  by  Lord  Arundel,  who  sold  all  the 
estates  of  the  "  Great  Arundels"  except  Lanherne,  above  delineated,  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  spots  we  ever  saw.  The  nuns  were  almost  all  English  women ; 
and  the  antique  character  of  the  house,  which  possesses  a  pretty  chapel,  and 
several  fine  paintings,  the  neighbouring  scenery  aided  by  the  parish  church  of 
Mawgan,   which  is  hard  by,  together  with  the  seclusion  of  the  place,  render 


T>2 


ENGLAND  IN  THR  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


Lanhei'ne  a  most  interesting  spot   to 
the  stranger.* 

The  church  is  of  very  ancient  date, 
and  contains  many  illegible  inscriptions, 
together  with  some 
curious  carving.  In 
the  church-yard  is 
the  annexed  cross, 
which  is  in  very  good 
preservation,  and  re- 
presents royal  per- 
sonages, together 
with  the  figure  of  an 
angel  and  a  serpent ; 
but  it  is  not  possible 
to  make  out  the  sub- 
ject, or  to  what  end 
it  was  erected,  unless 
as  a  votive  memorial. 

St.  Columb  Major 
is  a  considerable  pa- 
rish ;  the  church  of 
which,  of  very   old 


.'.■■.■     - 


*  We  met  with  a  poem  here,  by  the  Rev.  Mr. 
of  the  scenery  and  nunnery  in  1802  ;  we  give 
"  I  might  tell,  in  numbers  soft, 
For  I  thither  ramble  oft, 
Pleased  and  nattered  to  be  free 
Of  the  sweet  community  ; 
And  approved,  repeat  to  fame 
Every  harmonizing  name 
Of  the  well-known  vestal  train, — 
Tell  how  tenderest  amongst  these 
Sighs  the  pensive  Heloise, 
Fair  as  her  of  Paraclete, 
Less,  I  trust,  unfortunate  ; 
Angela's  soft  mien  commend, 
Angela,  my  chatty  friend  ; 
Blooming  Austin's  cherub  face  ; 
The  reverend  mother's  winning  grace  ; 
Or  Teresa's  ancient  smiles, 
Who  the  weight  of  age  beguiles, 
Hers  the  tranquil  vestal's  lot, 
Long  the  scenes  of  life  forgot ; 
Haifa  century  she,  immured, 
Self- restriction  hath  endured, 
And  her  jubilee,  elate, 
Kept  in  climacteric  state  ; 


Fisher,  who  was  clergyman  of  the  parish,  descriptive 
an  extract : — 

When  the  white  rod  graced  her  hand, 

Blossoming  as  Aaron's  wand ; 

When  each  amaranthine  flower 

Decked  her  cell  as  Eva's  bower ; 

When  the  gay  symbolic  round, 

Locks  of  silver,  twining,  bound. 

Oft  the  muser,  passing  by, 

At  the  mansion  casts  his  eye, 

Grieved  for  the  devoted  host, 

There  to  social  freedom  lost : 

But  the  long-caged  lark  no  more 

Imps  its  pinions  spread  to  soar ; 

And  the  linnet  on  the  wire 

Spends  not  long  its  idle  ire  ; 

Each  renews  its  wonted  song, 

Not  a  silent  captive  long. 

So  the  window,  grated,  barred, 

Seems  no  more  confinement  hard, 

When  the  heaven-directed  mind 

Feels  its  pinions  unconfined, 

And  in  unimpassioned  tone 

Knows  not  solitude  alone." 


CORNWALL.  223 

date,  was  much  injured  by  an  explosion  from  the  "parish  stores"  of  gun- 
powder, placed  in  the  rood-loft  in  1676  ;  and  in  1690  the  steeple  was  destroyed 
by  lightning.  It  contains  a  bust  of  Robert  Hoblyn,  Esq.  of  Nanswhyden, 
whose  fine  mansion  stands  a  burnt-out  wreck  not  far  from  the  road.  St.  Columb 
had  formerly  a  college  of  Augustine  monks,  and  four  free  chapels  are  said  to 
have  stood  here  in  early  times.  The  town  is  on  an  eminence,  about  four  miles 
from  the  sea,  on  the  high  road  from  Truro  to  Wadebridge,  having  a  good  deal 
of  cultivated  land  around.  In  this  parish  is  Castle  an  Dinas,  an  ancient  work, 
inclosing  six  acres  of  ground,  built  of  turf  and  unhewn  stones,  with  ruins, 
apparently  of  dwellings,  within  the  rampart,  It  stands  in  a  very  commanding 
situation ;  and  not  far  from  it  a  barrow  of  stone,  called  the  Coyt,  or  a  cromlech, 
is  said  to  exist,  or  to  have  existed,  with  another  stone,  which  bears  the  im- 
pression of  King  Arthur's  horses'  shoe,  but  we  did  not  go  in  search  of  them. 
In  this  parish,  also,  we  noticed  a  fine  barrow,  or  tumulus,  and  the  following 
upright  stones, 
called  the  "Nine 
Maids,"  or  in 
Cornish,  "  Naw 
Voz"  pronounced 

"  naw  whoorz,"  the  Nine  Sisters.  They  occupy  a  straight  line  of  about  a 
hundred  and  five  yards,  and  stand  at  nearly  equal  distances.  Trewan,  or 
Truan  House,  is  a  fine  old  granite  building,  erected  in  1633,  a  seat  of  the 
Vyvyan  family.  It  contains  a  drawing-room,  curiously  sculptured  with  pas- 
sages from  the  Mosaic  history.  The  whole  is  battlemented,  and  of  a  form 
almost  unique  in  design,  commanding  a  very  fine  prospect. 

In  St.  Wenn  parish,  on  tjie  east,  bordering  upon  St.  Columb,  was  born 
Michael  de  Tregury,  Archbishop  of  Dublin,  before  which  he  was  President  of 
the  University  of  Caen,  in  Normandy,  in  the  reign  of  Henry  V.*  Here,  too, 
are  the  remains  of  another  castle,  called  Damelsa,  being  a  triple  entrenchment 
of  stones  and  earth,  one  within  another.  Withiel,  which  adjoins  St.  Wenn,  is 
a  parish  containing  nothing  worthy  of  record ;  and  the  same  may  be  said  of  those 
of  St.  Ewen,  St.  Eval,  and  St.  Merryn,  or  Merrin,  which  lie  north  of  St.  Columb 
towards  the  sea,  except  that  St.  Merryn  had  a  church  and  well  dedicated  to 
St.  Constantine.  The  church  is  in  ruins,  but  the  well  is  still  to  be  seen :  it 
had  seats  for  the  devotees  to  sit  and  Avash  themselves.  There  is  a  small  pier 
in  this  parish  for  boats,  and  a  seat  of  the  Peter  family,  called  Harlyn.  Little 
Petherick,  having  a  very  pretty  and  secluded  church-town,  adjoins  St.  Issey 
on  the  shore  of  the  Camel ;  it  had  once  a  chapel,  dedicated  to  St.  Ide,  or  Ida, 

*  He  died  in  1471,  and  was  buried  in  Dublin,  with  this  epitaph  :  — 
"  Preesul  Metropolis  Michael  hie  Dublinensis 
Marmore  tumbatus,  pro  me  Christum,  flagitetis." 
In  his  will  he  devised  an  oblation  to  St.  Michael's  Mount  by  the  hands  of  William  Wvse.     A  list  of 
his  works  may  be  found  in  Pits'  "  De  lllustribus  Angliae  Scriptoribus." 


>24 


ENGLAND    IN    THE    NINETEENTH    CENTCUY. 


3E£^"J 


and  possesses  a  village  called  Tregonnen.  St.  Breock,  on  the  western*  shore 
of  the  Camel,  derives  its  name  from  an  Irish  saint,  a  Bishop  of  Armorica,  and 
contains  a  moiety  of  the  town  of  Wadebridge  on  the  Camel ;  following 
which  river  a  few  miles  near  its  month  we  arrived  at  Padstow,  a  market-town, 
standing  on  the  western  shore  of  the  estuary,  in  a  spot  sheltered  by  hills,  and 
having  a  very  pleasing  aspect.  It  is  an  ancient  place,  and  was  called  Lodenick 
by  the  Cornish,  and  then  Adelstow,  from  King  Athelstan.  Here  St.  Petroc, 
a  Welshman,  educated  in  Ireland,  built  an  oratory,  took  up  his  abode  about 
a.d.  560,  and  wrote  a  work  "  Of  Solitary  Life;"  and  here  was  born,  in  1648, 
of  an  old  family,  Dean  Prideaux,  the  well-known  divine,  author  of  the 
"  Scripture  Connection."  The  church  is  a  handsome  edifice,  with  a  curious 
font,f    and   contains   me-  ->, 

morials  to  the  Prideaux 
family,  who  have  now  as- 
sumed the  name  of  Brune. 
A  chapel  to  St.  Sampson 
once  stood  here,  built  on 
the  ruins  of  St.  Petroc's 
monastery,  destroyed  by 
the  Danes  in  981.  Upon 
the  remains  of  the  monas- 
tery stand  at  present  the 
embattled  house  of  the  Prideauxs,  called  Padstow  Place.  There  were 
anciently  several  other  chapels  near  this  town.  The  port  is  impeded  by  a 
sand  bar,  so  that  large  ships  cannot  enter ;  but  a  considerable  trade  is  carried 
on  in  vessels  of  moderate  burthen.  This  was  anciently  a  great  resort  of  the  Irish  ; 
and  it  is  also  a  fishing  town,  by  which  it  has  realized  considerable  profits. 
Numerous  sand-banks  lie  off  the  entrance,  and  the  country  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  estuary  is  greatly  encumbered  with  blown  sands.  Padstow 
received  one  of  the  donations  of  the  Rev.  St.  John  Eliot  for  establishing  a 
charity-school,  and  possesses  several  public  institutions  for  the  relief  of  the 
poor,  together  with  Sunday  and  day-schools. 

From  Padstow  we  went  a  second  time  to  Bodmin,!  and,  proceeding  from 
thence  to  Launceston,  over  a  road  miserably  dreary,  entered  the  sister  county 
by  Poulton  Bridge,  and  thus  bade  farewell  to  one  of  the  more  ancient, 
celebrated,  and  romantic  portions  of  the  British  Isles. 

*  By  ir.istake,  in  place  of  the  western,  St.  Breock  is  stated  at  page  43  to  be  at  the  eastern  end  of 
the  bridge.  t  See  page  103,  font  No.  3. 

X  We  may  be  excused  for  referring  to  our  paragraph  respecting  Bodmin  (page  47),  having  been 
once  the  see  of  a  western  Bishop,  grounded  upon  the  authority  of  Whittaker.  The  present  work  can 
afford  no  space  for  antiquarian  conjectures,  but  we  are  bound  to  retract  our  opinion  thus  expressed 
upon  what  we  thought  competent  authority,  having  since  seen  the  copy  of  the  MS.,  No.  9381,  in  the 
British  Museum,  containing  the  four  Gospels  which  once  belonged  to  the  church  of  St.  Petroc,  and  is 
supposed  to  be  of  the  date  of  the  ninth  century,  printed  by  Mr.  Da  vies  Gilbert. 


CORNWALL.  225 


STATISTICAL  RELATIONS  OF   CORNWALL. 


DUCHY  OFFICES,  STANNARIES,  PARLIAMENTARY  REPRESENTATION,  BOROUGH 
BOUNDARIES,  GREAT  LANDHOLDERS,  ANCIENTLY  AND  AT  PRESENT,  PEERS, 
BARONETS,  PRINCIPAL  FAMLLY  RESIDENCES,  ECCLESIASTICAL  RELATIONS, 
STATISTICS. 

When  speaking  of  the  agriculture  of  Cornwall,  at  page  144,  ve  noticed  the  proprietary  of  the 
duchy,  created  for  Edward  the  Black  Prince,  in  13.37,  together  with  the  extent  of  its  ancient  and 
present  limits,  the  revenues  from  the  manors  and  tin  dues  belonging  to  the  king's  eldest  son,  as  Duke 
of  Cornwall,  by  right  of  inheritance.  The  officers  of  the  duchy  consist  of  a  vice-admiral,  lord-  warden 
of  the  stannaries,  and  steward  of  the  duchy ;  his  secretary ;  two  vice-wardens,  one  for  Cornwall,  the 
other  for  Devon  ;  a  receiver-general,  and  his  deputy  ;  an  auditor,  and  his  deputy  ;  a  surveyor-general, 
and  two  deputies ;  an  attorney-general ;  a  constable  of  Launceston  Castle  ;  an  assay  master  of  tin  ;  a 
comptroller  of  coinages  ;  a  deputy  steward  of  the  stannary  courts  for  each  county ;  four  supervisors 
of  blowing  and  smelting-houses ;  stewards  of  estates  and  revenues  in  Berks,  Dorset,  Surrey,  and 
Somerset ;  seven  deputy  stewards  of  Cornwall  and  Devon,  and  three  clerks  in  the  office  of  the  sur- 
veyor and  auditor-general  ;*  quite  enough,  it  may  be  presumed,  to  take  care  of  a  revenue  of  20,000/.' 
per  annum.  The  original  charter  of  the  stannaries,  granted  by  Edward  I,  and  confirmed  by  Edward  III., 
is  said  to  have  been  lost  or  destroyed  at  Lostwithiel,  in  the  wars  of  Charles  I.  The  miners  were  by 
this  charter  exempt  from  all  jurisdiction  except  that  of  the  stannary  courts,  save  in  such  cases  as 
might  affect  land,  life,  or  limb.  The  appeal  from  the  lord-warden,  or  his  courts,  lay  to  the  duke,  or 
king  in  council.  The  vice-warden's  court  is  now  commonly  held  once  a  month,  and  decides  all 
matters  between  tinners  relative  to  mining,  and  no  writ  of  error  lies  from  it  to  the  courts  at  West- 
minster. No  laws  were  to  be  enacted  but  by  the  consent  of  twenty-four  persons,  chosen  out  of  four 
districts,  namely,  Foy-more,  Blackmore,  Ty  warnhaile,  and  Penwith  and  Kirrier.  The  corporators  of 
Lostwithiel  choose  the  stannators  for  Foy-more  ;  those  of  Truro,  the  delegates  for  Ty  warnhaile  ;  and 
those  for  Penwith  and  Kirrier  are  chosen  by  the  body  corporate  of  Helston.  The  laws  are  published 
in  an  octavo  volume.  We  believe  that  the  last  stannary  parliament  was  held  at  Truro,  in  1752  :  the 
members  selected  are  gentlemen  of  the  county  connected  with  mining ;  they  choose  a  speaker,  and 
proceed  regularly  with  business ;  but  as  the  enactment  of  new  laws,  or  the  revision  of  old,  is  rarely 
required,  the  lord- warden,  whose  duty  it  is,  has  seldom  had  occasion  to  convene  them.  The  stannary 
prison  is  at  Lostwithiel. 

Turning  to  the  civil  divisions  of  Cornwall — we  find  it  divided  into  nine  hundreds  ;  namely,  those 
of  East,  West,  Powder,  and  Kirrier,  in  the  southern,  and  Stratton,  Lesnewth,  Trigg,  Pydar,  and  Pen- 
with, on  the  northern  side  of  the  county  ;  the  civil  being  different  from  the  ecclesiastical  divisions. 
Doomsday  book  mentions  only  seven  hundreds, — Conarton,  Fawiton,  Pawton,  Rialton,  Stratton,  Ti- 
besta  or  Tibestina,  and  Winneton.  The  change  to  the  present  denominations  and  number  is  supposed 
to  have  occurred  between  the  years  1088  and  1288.  All  the  hundreds  were  anciently  attached  to  the 
Earls  of  Cornwall,  except  that  of  Penwith,  of  which  two-thirds  also  were  the  property  of  the  duchy 
in  the  reign  of  James  I.  This  last  hundred  was  held  by  the  Arundel  family,  until  purchased  of  them 
by  the  late  Sir  C.  Hawkins. 

The  parliamentary  representation  consists,  since  the  Reform  Act,  of  four  members  for  the  county, 
which  is  divided  into  the  Eastern  and  Western  divisions  for  that  purpose ;  and  of  two  for  the  towns 
of  Truro,  Bodmin,  Falmouth  and  Peuryn  ;  and  one  each  for  Launceston,  Liskeard,  St.  Ives,  and 
Helston. 

The  Eastern  division  comprises  the  five  hundreds  of  East,  West,  Lesnewth,  Stratton,  and  Trigg  ; 
also  the  parishes  of  St.  Austle,  St.  Blazey,  St.  Denis,  St.  Ewe,  Fowey,  Gorran,  Ladock,  Lanlivery, 
Lostwithiel,  Luxulian,  Mevagissy,  St.  Mewan,  St.  Michael  Carhayes,  Roche,  St.  Sampson,  St.  Ste- 
phen in  Brannel,  and  Ty  wardreth,  in  the  hundred  of  Powder,  together  with  such  parts  of  the  hundred 
of  Pyder  as  are  not  included  in  the  Western  division.  The  population  in  1831  was  146,275.  Polling 
places,  Bodmin,  Launceston,  Stratton,  Liskeard,  and  St.  Austle  :  election  at  Bodmin. 

*  Many  of  these  places,  it  is  presumed,  are  sinecures;  and  more  must  have  recently  become  so  by  the  change  which 
has  been  wisely  effected  in  the  abrogation  of  the  old  practice  of  coinage.  The  whole  management  of  the  duchy  property 
pressingly  calls  for  revision. 

C!   G 


226  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

The  Western  division  comprises  the  hundreds  of  Kirrier  and  Penwith,  with  what  of  Powder  is  not 
included  in  the  Eastern  division ;  and  the  parishes  of  St.  Agnes,  Crantock,  Cubert,  Newlyn,  St.  Enoder, 
Perranzabulo,  and  the  Scilly  Isles,  in  the  hundred  of  Pydar.  Population,  156,105.  Polling  places, 
Truro,  Penzance,  Helston,  and  Redruth  :  election  at  Truro.  St  Michael,  St.  Mawes,  Tregony,  Gram- 
pound,  Tintagel,  Boscastle,  East  and  West  Looe,  Camelford,  St.  Germans,  Newport,  Saltash,  Fowey, 
and  Lostwithiel,  making  fourteen  boroughs,  returning  twenty-eight  members,  with  one  member  from 
St.  Ives,  Launceston,  Liskeard,  and  Helston,  deducted,  renders  the  total  reduction  thirty-two,  out  of 
forty-four  returned  before  the  Reform  Act.  With  thirty-two  reduced,  and  two  added  for  the  county, 
the  present  state  of  the  parliamentary  representation  is  fourteen.  The  limits  of  the  boroughs,  and 
the  additions  wheD  any  were  made,  are  as  follow ;  together  with  the  number  of  10/.  houses  at  the 
time  of  the  alteration. 

Truro. — 10/.  houses,  237  :  population,  8,252,  on  the  census  of  1831.  Limits,  from  Bosvigo  Bridge, 
over  the  brook,  along  Bosvigo-lane  to  its  junction  with  the  Redruth-road,  thence  to  Green-lane,  where 
it  is  joined  by  this  road  at  Chapel  Hill-gate,  and  thence  until  Green-lane  joins  the  Falmouth  road  ; 
thence  along  an  Occupation  road,  leading  through  Newham  Farm-lane ;  thence  along  the  south- 
western fence  bounding  the  two  fields  "  Great  Beef,"  and  "  Little  Beef  Close,"  until  it  meets  the  north- 
western fence  of  Bramble  Close  ;  thence  eastward  to  where  this  latter  fence  reaches  Calenick  Creek  ; 
thence  along  this  creek  to  Lower  Newham-wharf ;  thence  in  a  straight  line  across  Truro  river,  to 
the  south-eastern  extremity  of  Sunny-corner  wharf;  thence  in  a  straight  line  to  Sunny-corner;  and 
from  thence  in  a  line  to  where  Trenack-lane  would  be  cut  by  a  straight  line  drawn  from  the  eastern 
extremity  of  Newham  Farm-lane  to  Hill  Head,  where  St.  Clement's-lane  meets  the  old  St.  Austle- 
road  ;  thence  in  a  straight  line  to  Mitchel-hill  gate,  on  the  old  London  road ;  thence  in  a  straight  line 
to  where  the  boundary  of  the  old  borough  would  be  cut  by  a  straight  line  drawn  from  that  gate  to 
Kenwyn  church  ;  thence,  northward,  along  this  boundary  to  Bosvigo  bridge.  The  mayor,  returning 
officer. 

Bodmin. — 10Z.  houses,  311  :  population,  5,288:  borough  comprises  Bodmin,  Lanivet,  Lanhydrock, 
and  Helland.    The  mayor  returning  officer. 

Launceston. — 10/.  houses,  327  :  population,  5394  :  comprises  old  borough,  part  of  St.  Stephen,  and 
the  parts  of  Lawhitton,  St.  Thomas,  and  South  Petherwin,  without  the  old  borough.  The  mayor,  re- 
turning officer. 

Penryn  and  Falmouth. — 10/.  houses,  796  ;  united  population,  11,805  ;  limits  north  of  Penryn,  where 
the  old  borough  boundary  leaves  that  of  Mylor ;  westerly  along  the  old  boundary  to  where  it  meets 
the  road  from  Penryn  to  Helston  ;  thence  straight  to  Hill  Head,  where  the  road  from  Budock  joins 
that  to  Penryn  from  Constantine ;  thence  in  a  line  to  the  nearest  point  of  the  boundary  of  Falmouth 
parish,  and  along  it  southward  to  where  it  meets  the  boundary  of  the  detached  parts  of  the  parish  of 
Budock  ;  thence  in  a  straight  line  to  the  northern  point,  where  this  latter  boundary  leaves  that  of 
Falmouth  ;  thence  westward,  along  the  sea  coast,  to  the  boundary  of  St.  Gluvias  ;  thence  eastward 
to  the  point  first  described.     The  mayor  is  returning  officer. 

Liskeard. — 10/.  houses,  315  ;  population,  4042  ;  comprises  the  parish  of  Liskeard,  and  all  the  parts 
of  the  old  borough  without  that  parish.     Returning  officer,  the  mayor. 

St.  Lves. — 10/.  houses,  302  ;  population,  4776  ;  old  limits.  The  mayor  returning  officer. 
Helston. — 10/.  houses,  225  ;  population,  3293  ;  borough  comprises  the  old  borough,  the  parish  of 
Sithney,  and  the  space  extending  from  Coverack  Bride  over  the  Loe,  in  a  straight  line  along  the 
Wendron  road  to  the  western  extremity  of  a  lane  leading  by  Huel  Ann  to  Graham  mine;  thence 
along  this  lane  until  it  meets  a  small  stream  ;  thence  southward  along  the  stream  to  where  it  meets  a 
lane  leading  from  Wendron  to  Trecoose  and  Constantine  ;  eastward  along  this  line  until  it  meets  the 
boundary  of  Wendron,  and  so  southward  along  this  boundary  to  Coverack  Bride.  The  mayor  is 
returning  officer. 

In  the  Exeter  copy  of  the  Doomsday  Survey,  East  Anthony,  Bodmin,  Boyton,  Calstock,  Con- 
stantine, Codiford  in  St.  Wenn,  St.  Germans,  Glynn,  Mewan,  Rame,  Stratton,  Trenant,  are  the  only 
names  to  be  directly  and  certainly  recognised  by  their  present  designation.  The  names  of  the  early 
landholders  were,  de  Valletort,  Fitzwilliam,  de  Lucie  or  Lacy,  de  Boterell  or  Bottreaux,  Geoffry, 
Baldwin,  de  Mandeville,  de  Pomeroy,  Hoel,  Jordan,  de  Bouhard,  de  Trewodoret,  Fitzalured, 
de  Dun,  Fitzoful,  and  Eiulph,  De  Cardinan,  Walter  Hay,  de  Lacel,  Fitzwalter,  de  Briwere,  Fleming, 
de  la  Roche,  de  Dunstanville,  a  member  of  which  family  married  with  a  Basset,  and  brought  a  good 
estate  as  her  portion.  In  1225  the  names  of  de  Granville,  de  Tracy,  Valletort,  Pomeroy,  Carminow, 
Flamank,  de  Mesy,  Wise,  Beauchamps,  de  Draenes,  and  de  Dones  occur.  In  1323,  Champernon 
occurs  as  a  great  Cornish  landholder ;  the  Blanchminsters,  Bodrugan,  Edgcumbe,  Trevanion,  Powlet, 
Dawney,  Ferrers,  Basset,  Dinham,  Mohun,  Reskymer,  Prideaux,  Herle,  Lambourn,  Sore,  Petit, 
Tinton,  Beaupre,  Tregagle,  Bloghou,  Archdekne,  Arundel  of  Lanherne  and  Arundel  of  Trerice, 
Huwis,  Peverell,  Cheynduit,  Beville,  De  Cant,  Lansladron,  Govely,  Kymells,  Meules  or  Moyles  of 
Bake,    Rame,    Cobham,    St.   Colan,  Blewet,   Trefusis,    Bodrane,    Helligan,  Killigrcw,   Ilamelyn, 


CORNWALL.  227 

Thurlebue,  Bret,  St.  'Winnow,  Fysac,  Quoyhin,  Trom,  Trewithen,  del  Estre,  Kellerion,  le  Brun, 
Waunford,  and  Cole. 

In  the  time  of  Elizabeth,  the  Tregians,  cruelly  robbed  of  their  property  for  remaining  faithful  to  the 
religion  of  their  ancestors,  are  mentioned  as  large  landholders  ;  and  in  the  reign  of  James  I.,  the 
families  of  Godolphin,  Robartes,  and  Treise,  are  to  be  noticed.  Later  we  find  the  families  of  Basset, 
Boscawen,  Eliot,  Mount  Edgcumbe,  Agar,  Lemon,  Vyvyan,  Carew,  Granville,  Hawkins,  Call, 
Gregor,  Glanville,  Kashleigh,  Buller,  St.  Aubyn,  Molesworth,  Rodd,  Coryton,  Glynn,  Tremayne,  and 
Rogers,  possessed  of  the  largest  estates  in  the  county,  to  which  list  the  duchy  must  be  added. 

The  first  earl  of  Cornwall  was  Robert  Earl  of  Morton,  or  Morteigne ;  after  passing  through 
other  hands,  Cornwall  was  made  a  dukedom,  and  given  by  Edward  III.  to  the  Black  Prince  ;*  since 
which,  Henry  V.  and  VI.,  Edward  son  of  Henry  VI.,  Edward  V.,  Edward  son  of  Richard  III., 
Arthur  son  of  Henry  VII.,  and  his  younger  brother  Henry  VIII.,  Henry  son  of  James  I.,  and  his 
brother  Charles  I.,  Charles  II.,  George  II.,  Frederick  prince  of  Wales,  George  IV.,  and  the  present 
infant  prince,  have  enjoyed  this  distinguished  title.  The  dukes  of  Cornwall  never  had  a  residence  in 
the  duchy,  but  the  earls  before  them  resided  at  Launceston  castle,  occupying  occasionally  those  of 
Tintagel,  Liskeard,  Restormel,  and  Moresk. 

The  Cornish  families  ennobled  are  those  of  Boscawen  of  Boscawen -Rose,  in  St.  Burian,  traced  back 
to  1200  ;  they  subsequently  removed  to  Tregothuan,  near  Truro,  on  the  marriage  of  one  of  the  family 
with  an  heiress  of  Tregothnan  in  1330.  The  Boscawens  were  ennobled  as  Barons  Boscawen-Rose  and 
Viscounts  Falmouth,  in  1720. 

Trefusis,  Lord  Clinton  and  Say,  the  fourth  on  the  list  of  English  barons,  acquired  by  inheritance 
in  1794.  This  family  is  traced  back  four  generations  before  1292;  its  residence  is  at  Trefusis 
house,  about  eight  miles  from  Truro,  and  two  from  Penryn. 

Mount  Edgcumbe,  of  Mount  Edgcumbe  and  Cothele,  both  on  the  Cornish  side  of  the  Tamar,  the 
estates  bordering  that  river.  Richard  Edgcumbe,  of  Mount  Edgcumbe,  was  created  a  baron  in  1742. 
The  family  came  from  Devonshire  to  Cothele  in  the  reign  of  Edward  III.,  and  possess  large  estates 
in  Cornwall.  The  title  of  Viscount  Mount  Edgcumbe  and  Valletort  was  conferred  in  1781  ;  that  of 
earl  in  1789. 

St.  Germans,  Earl  of,  and  Baron  Eliot,  of  Port  Eliot,  whose  family  came  into  Cornwall  from 
Devonshire,  in  consequence  of  making  the  exchange  of  Cutland,  in  Devon,  for  the  estate  of  the 
priory  of  St.  Germans,  about  1565.  This  family  was  ennobled  in  1784,  in  the  person  of  Edward  Craggs 
Eliot,  who  died  in  1804  ;  his  second  son,  succeeding  to  the  title  of  Lord  Eliot,  was  advanced  to  the 
earldom  of  St.  Germans  in  1815. f 

Graves,  William  Thomas,  Baron  Gravesend,  son  of  Thomas  Graves,  Esq.  of  Thankes ;  ennobled 
for  his  naval  services  in  the  battle  of  the  1st  of  June,  1794. 

De  Dunstanville,  Francis  Basset,  baron  of  Tehidy-park,  and  Lord  Basset  of  Stratton. 
Although  the  honour  of  de  Dunstanville  is  recently  extinct,  Frances,  daughter  of  the  late  baron, 
succeeded  to  the  second  title,  as  Lady  Basset  of  Stratton,  with  remainder  to  her  male  descendants. 
This  is  a  very  old  Cornish  family.  The  late  baron  was  created  a  baronet  in  1779  ;  Baron  de 
Dunstanville  in  1796  ;  and  Baron  Basset  of  Stratton  in  1797. 

Vivian,  Richard  Hussey,  Baron  Vivian  of  Truro,  an  eminent  general  officer,  colonel  of  the  12th 
dragoons,  descended  from  a  family  long  settled  at  Truro,  and  son  of  the  late  John  Vivian,  Esq. 
Vice-warden  of  the  Stannaries,  and  one  of  the  most  respectable  gentlemen  in  all  the  relations  of  life 
that  Cornwall  ever  boasted. 

The  extinct  peerage  of  Cornwall  is  a  list  of  names,  many  of  which  were  famous  in  their  day : 
among  them  were  the  Lords  Tregoyes,  Bottreaux,  Bonville,  de  Brooke,  Marney,  Denham,  Valletort 
of  Trematon,  Pomeroy  of  Tregony  castle,  Cardinan,  or  Dinan,  of  Cardinham,  Tyes  of  Alvarton, 
Llansladron  of  Llansladron,  Archdekne  of  Shepestall,  d'Aunay  of  Sheviock,  Courtenay  of  Boconnoc 
(earl  of  Devon),  Robartes  baron  Truro,  Mohun  of  Bodinnick,  Granville  (earl  of  Bath),  Arundel  of 
Trerice,  Godolphin  of  Godolphin,  Camelford  of  Boconnoc.  Erskine  was  made  baron  of  Restormel, 
but  he  possessed  no  land  in  the  county.  But  few  of  the  residences  of  the  extinct  peers  remain  :  the 
mount  of  Bottreaux  castle  is  all  that  is  left  of  that  seat ;  Colquite,  Lord  Marney's,  is  utterly  demolished  ; 
of  Lord  Bonville's  seat  at  Trelawney  a  few  fragments  remain  ;  Trerice  is  a  farm-house,  once  the  seat 
of  the  Arundels ;  so  is  Godolphin  and  others  ;  Stow,  the  most  magnificent  mansion  of  the  west,  is 
utterly  gone  ;  Efford,  an  old  seat  of  the  Arundels,  still  stands ;  Lanherne  is  a  nunnery. 

The  baronets  of  Cornwall  are — 

Sir  Buuchier  Wrey,  of  Trebigh,  in  St  Ive  ;  now  resident  at  Tawstock  House,  Devon ;  date  of 
baronetcy,  June  30,  1628. 

*  There  seems  a  straining  of  the  original  words  of  the  statute,  which  declared  the  firsl-begottcn  son  of  the  king  of 
England  should  be  duke  of  Cornwall.  In  the  time  of  James  I.,  on  the  death  of  Henry  Prince  of  Wales  and  Duke  of 
Cornwall,  the  king  got  his  second  son  to  be  declared  duke;  the  lawyers  citing  a  subsequent  authority,  by  which  they 
made  any  son  of  the  king  the  "  first-begotten"  who  happened  to  be  the  eldest  son  living,  and  heir  to  the  realm  of 
England.    The  gentry  of  the  law  had  a  wonderful  skill  in  making  statutes  suit  conveniency  in  such  things. 

t  In  the  text  we  have  spelt  this  family  Elliot;  it  thould  be  Eliot. 


228  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

Sir  William  Lewis  Salusbury  Trelawney,  of  Trelawney,  in  Felynt,  and  Harewood  House,  Calstock  ; 
date  of  baronetcy,  July  1,  1628. 

Sir  Richard  Rawlinson  Vyvyan,  of  Trelowarren  ;  date  of  baronetcy,  Feb.  12,  1644-5. 

Sir  John  Trevelyan,  of  Trevelyan,  in  St.  Veep,  whose  family  removed  into  Somersetshire  some 
generations  back,  but  still  retain  their  ancient  property;  date  of  baronetcy,  Jan.  24,  1661-2. 

Sir  William  Molesworth,  of  Pencarrow ;  the  first  baronetcy  created  by  King  William,  June 
12,  1688. 

Sir  Charles  Lemon,  of  Carclew,  near  Truro;  date  of  baronetcy,  1774. 

Sir  Joseph  Copley,  of  Bake,  the  seat  of  the  Moyles ;  the  possessor  of  Bake  taking  the  name  of 
Copley  on  being  created  a  baronet,  Aug.  15,  1778. 

Sir  Warwick  Charles  Morshead,  of  Trenant  Park;  date  of  baronetcy,  Dec.  10,  1773. 

Sir  William  Pratt  Call,  of  Whiteford;  date  of  baronetcy,  June  21,  1791. 

Sir  Charles  Price,  of  Trengwainton  ;  date  of  baronetcy,  May  30,  1815. 

Sir  J.  C.  Rashleigh,  of  Prideaux  ;  date  of  baronetcy,  Sept.  15,  1831. 

Sir  Joseph  Sawle  Graves  Sawle,  of  Penrice  ;  date  of  baronetcy,  March  22,  1836. 

The  extinct  baronetcies  are — Hawkins,  of  Trewithen ;  Buller,  of  Trenant;  Mohun,  of  Boconnoc  ; 
Robartes,  of  Truro ;  Granville,  of  Stow  ;  Carew,  of  Anthony ;  Smith,  of  Crantock  ;  Killigrew,  of 
Arwenik  ;  Coryton,  of  Ferrers  ;  and,  we  believe,  St.  Aubyn,  of  Clowance. 

The  names  of  the  Cornish  landholders  are  generally  marked  from  local  derivation,  it  having  been 
formerly  the  practice  to  call  a  man,  after  his  own  and  his  father's  name,  by  that  of  his  dwelling ;  as 
John  Thomas  Pendarves,  whose  younger  brother  would  be  addressed  Richard  Thomas  Pendarves, 
and  so  on,  which  practice  was  not  discontinued  until  173G.  On  changing  a  habitation  the  name  was 
also  changed.  The  names  of  many  of  the  principal  Cornish  gentry  very  recently  were — Beaucliamp, 
of  Pengreep  ;  Billinge,  of  Treworder ;  Bond,  of  Erth ;  Borlase,  of  Borlase  ;  Braddon,  of  Treworgy  ; 
Buller,  of  Morval  and  Shillingham  ;  Burell,  of  Burell ;  Carew,  of  Antony  ;  Carlyon,  of  Tregrahan  ; 
Chynoweth,  of  Chynoweth  ;  Coode,  of  Morval ;  Darell,  of  Trewornan  ;  Dewen,  of  Gwinnear  ;  Emjs, 
of  Enys;  Flamank,  of  Bocarne;  Foote,  of  Trelogosick ;  Giddy,  of  Trelease  and  Tredrea;  Glanville, 
of  Catchfrench  ;  Glynn,  of  Glynn  ;  Gregor,  of  Trewarthenick  ;  Grylls,  of  Lanreath  ;  Hals,  of  Fenton- 
gollen  ;  Hamley,  of  Halwyn  ;  Harris,  of  Kenegie ;  Hawkey,  of  Trevegoe  ;  Hearle,  or  Herle,  of  Pri- 
deaux ;  Hext,  of  Trenerran  ;  Hoblyn,  of  Bodrane  and  Nanswyden ;  Fans,  of  Whitstone ;  Jago,  of 
St.  Erme  ;  Keigwin,  of  Mousehole  ;  Kekewich,  once  of  Catchfrench  ;  Kempe,  of  Levethan  ;  Kendall, 
of  Treworgy  and  Pelyn  ;  Kestell,  of  Kestell ;  Kingdon,  of  Trehunsey  in  Qwithiock,  and  Trenowth 
in  St.  Cleer ;  Kingdon  also  occurs  at  Stamford  Hill,  near  Stratton,  and  at  Morton  in  Launcells,  which 
last  was  said  to  be  a  seat  of  Robert,  Earl  of  Moreton,  half  brother  to  William  the  Conqueror  ;* 
Lanyon,  of  Lanyon  ;  Manaton,  of  Manaton  ;  Mayow,  of  Bray,  in  Morval ;  Nicholls,  of  Trereife ; 
Paynter,  of  Boskenna  ;  Penrose,  of  Penrose,  in  Sithney  ;  Penwarne,  once  of  Penwarne,  in  Mawnan  ; 
Peter,  of  Harlyn  ;  Polwhele,  of  Polwhele ;  Pi  ideaux;  of  Place  ;  Pye,  of  Nansarth ;  Pyne,  of  Ham ; 
Rashleigh,  of  Fowey,  or  Menabilly ;  Rawle,  of  Hennet ;  Rescorla,  of  Rescorla ;  Robinson,  of  Cadg- 
with ;  Rodd,  of  Trebartha  Hall ;  Rogers,  of  Penrose ;  Rosecreeg,  of  Rosecreeg ;  Rous,  of  Halton  ; 
Sandys,  of  Lanarth  ;  Spiller,  of  Penventon  ;  Spry,  of  Cutcrew ;  Stackhouse,  of  Trehane  and  Pen- 
darves, now  Pendarves;  Stephens,  of  Tregenna  ;  Stone,  of  Trevego  ;  tThomas,  of  Chiverton ;  Tie- 
mayne,  of  Helligan  ;  Trcmenheere,  of  Rosecadghill ;  Trevanion,  of  Carhayes  ;  Trewinnard,  of  Trewin- 
nard  ;  Trewren,  of  Trevardeva ;  Ustick,  of  Botallack  ;  Webber,  of  Middle  Amble,  St.  Kew ;  Williams, 
of  Treverne  ;  Wills,  of  Landrake  ;  Williams,  of  Roseworthy  ;  Woodridge,  of  Gadenick  ;  and  Austen 
Treffry,  of  Fowey. 

The  extinct  families  form  a  very  numerous  list ;  and  of  these,  none  are  more  remarkable  than  the 
Arundels,  one  of  whom  was  sheriff  of  Cornwall  in  1260.  The  Arundels  formed  two  branches  of  the 
same  name.  One  of  these,  settled  originally  at  Trembleth,  removed  afterwards  to  Lanherne,  which 
he  had  acquired  by  marriage,  and  this  branch  became  extinct  in  1701.  The  other  branch  of  the 
Arundels,  that  of  Trerice,  became  extinct  at  an  earlier  period.  In  the  time  of  Norden,  there  were 
twelve  seats  of  the  Arundel  family  in  Cornwall.  The  Trevanions  had  five  seats,  and  they  are  extinct 
in  the  male  line.  The  Carminows  have  been  extinct  more  than  a  century.  The  Granvilles,  Mohuns, 
Champernons,  Bodrugans,  Killigrews,  Bevills,  Godolphins,  Tregians,  Tonkins,  Scawens,  Roscarrocks, 
Reskymers,  Praeds,  Robartes,  Polkinhornes,  Peverills,  Lowers,  Levelis,  Haweis,  Glynn  of  Wendron, 
Ferrers,  Eriseys,  Courtenays,  diamonds,  Bonithons,  Blanchminsters,  and  Arweniks,  have  all  passed 
away,  with  others,  of  whom  only  the  names  and  arms  are  now  known. 

The  continual  changes  of  family  residence,  and  the  numerous  deaths,  render  any  list  of  names 
attached  to  modern  residences  very  imperfect.  Besides  the  country  seats  already  mentioned  in 
the  course  of  this  work,  we  give  the  following  in  addition,  with  the  names  of  the  late  or  of  existing 

*  The  estate,  thus  historically  remarkable,  is  the  property  of  George  Boughton  Kingdon,  Esq.,  G.P.C.,  a  Deputy  Lieu- 
tenant and  Magistrate  both  for  Cornwall  and  Devon,  who  resides  at  Lnuncell's  House;  well  known  for  his  literary  and 
scientific  acquirements,  as  well  as  for  his  urbanity  and  kindness  as  a  country  gentleman. 


CORNWAU. 


229 


occupiers  ;  it  cannot  be  expected  that  we  should  give  the  occupants  of  mere  villas,  or  leasehold 
residences,  who  are  unconnected  with  estates,  as  it  would  swell  the  list  beyond  all  reasonable  compass. 
Behan  Park,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Trist ;  Bodmin  Priory,  W.  R.  Gilbert,  Esq.  ;  Bonithon,  Cury,  T.  Hartley^ 
Esq. ;  Bosahan,  Meneage,  T.  Grylls,  Esq.  ;  Bray,  Morval,  P.  W.  Mayow,  Esq.  ;  St.  Cadoc,  in 
St.  Veep,  Pi.  Wymond,  Esq  ;  Carnanton,  Mawgan,  in  Pydar,  J.  Willyams,  Esq. ;  Carrines,  Cubert, 
R.  Hosken,  Esq. ;  Chiverton,  Perran,  late  J.  Thomas,  Esq.  ;  Colquite,  D.  Peter,  Ksq  ;  Crigmurrion, 
J.  P.  Peters,  Esq. ;  Croan,  Eglosheyle,  Rev.  H.  II.  Tremayne  ;  Crugsillack,  Veryan,  J.  Kempe,  Esq.  ; 
Duporth,  St.  Austle,  late  C.  Rashleigh,  Esq. ;  Ellenglaze,  Cubert,  J.  Hosken,  Esq. ;  Ennis,  St.  Ernie, 
S.  Jago,  Esq. ;  Garlinnick,  Creed,  Rev  G  Moore  ;  Harlyn,  —  Peter,  Esq. ;  Hatt,  Botusfleming, 
Rev.  C.  Tucker ;  Hellanclose,  Cubert,  J.  Hosken,  Esq.  ;  Hengus,  St.  Tudy,  M.  Mitchel,  Esq. ;  Ilex- 
worthy,  Lawhitton,  E.  Prideaux,  Esq.  ;  Kilmarth,  (unoccupied ;)  Kirland,  Bodmin,  J.  Kempthorne, 
Esq. ;  Lanarth,  St.  Keverne,  Lieut  -Col.  Sandys ;  Lancarffe,  Bodmin,  Capt.  Ilext,  r.n.  ;  Longford 
Hill,  Marham  Church,  Mrs.  J.  C.  Woolcombe  ;  Lavethan,  Blisland,  late  General  Morshead  ;  Meer, 
Ponghill.  R.  Braddon,  Esq. ;  Nansalvan,  Madern,  J.  Scobell,  Esq. ;  Nansloe,  Wendron,  Rev.  W. 
Robinson  ;  Newcot,  Bridgrule,  J.  Braddon,  Esq.  ;  Newton  Park,  St.  Mellion,  W.  Hellyar,  Esq.  ;  Pen- 
quite,  T.  Graham,  Esq. ;  Penrice,  J.  S.  Graves,  Esq.  ;  Percothen,  St.  Merryn,  S.  Peter,  Esq. ;'  Place, 
Anthony  in  Meneage,  late  Admiral  Spry  ;  Place,  Padstow,  Rev.  C.  P.  Brune  ;  Poltair,  Madern, 
Rev.  Dr.  Scobell ;  Rosemundy,  St.  Agnes,  late  J.  James,  Esq. ;  Rosewarne,  Camborne,  W.  Harris, 
Esq.  ;  Skisdon,  St  Kew,  H.  Braddon,  Esq. ;  Stoketon,  St.  Stephen's,  Saltash,late  Admiral  He  Courcy ; 
Trebartha  Hall,  —  Rodd,  Esq. ;  Trebarsy,  South  Petherwin,  1).  Howell,  Esq.  ;  Tredethy,  St.  Mabyn, 
P.  J.  Hext,  Esq. ;  Tredudwell,  E.  Eveleigh,  Esq.  ;  Tregarrick,  St.  Kew,  A.  Hambly,  Esq.  ;  Treglith, 
Treneglos,  W.  Braddon,  Esq. ;  Trekenning,  St.  Colomb,  E.  Faynter,  Esq. ;  Tremeer,  St.  Tudy,  Mrs. 
Read  ;  Trengoffe,  Warleggon,  E.  Angove,  Esq.  ;  Trevonan,  —  Gully,  Esq. ;  Trewardale,  Blislan  d 
Mrs.  Collins ;  Trewardreva,  C.  Scott,  Esq. ;  Trewithian,  Gerrons,  M.  G.  Cregoe,  Esq.  ;  Treworgy, 
St.  Clare,  or  Cleer,  Mrs  Inch ;  Truan,  or  Trewen,  St.  Colomb,  R.  Vyvyan,  Esq. ;  Vacye,  North 
Tamerton,  G.  Call,  Esq.  ;   Westcot,  St.  Dominick,  W.  Pode,  Esq. 

Upon  the  subject  of  the  decay  of  many  of  the  Cornish  families,  Dr.  Borlase  pertinently  and  beauti- 
fully says,  and  we  cannot  close  this  part  of  the  subject  with  a  better  quotation,  "  The  most  lasting 
families  have  only  their  seasons,  more  or  less,  of  a  certain  constitutional  strength,  They  have  their 
spring  and  summer  sunshine  glare,  their  wane,  decline,  and  death  ;  they  flourish  and  shine  perhaps 
for  ages  ;  at  last  they  sicken  ;  their  light  grows  pale,  and,  at  a  crisis,  when  the  offsets  are  withered, 
and  the  whole  stock  is  blasted,  the  whole  tribe  disappears,  and  leaves  the  world  as  they  have  done 
Cornwall.  There  are  limits  ordained  to  everything  under  the  sun  ;  man  will  not  abide  in  honour.  Of 
all  human  vanities,  family  pride  is  one  of  the  weakest.  Reader,  go  thy  way  ;  secure  thy  name  in  the 
book  of  life,  where  the  page  fades  not,  nor  the  title  alters  nor  expires  ;  leave  the  rest  to  heralds  and 
the  parish  register." 

Lord  Warden  of  the  Stannaries. — His  Royal  Highness  Prince  Albert. 

Lord-Lieutenant  of  the  County. — Sir  William  Lewis  Salusbury  Trelawney,  Bart,  of  Harewood 
House,  Calstock. 


COMMISSION  OF  THE  PEACE. 


Earl  of  St.  Germans. 

Earl  of  Falmouth. 

Earl  of  Mount  Edgcumbe. 

Lord  Eliot. 

Lord  Robert  Grosvenor. 

Lord  Graves. 

Lord  Vivian. 

The  Hon.  G.  M  Fortescue. 

The  Hon.  George  Edgcumbe. 

Sir  W.L.  Salusbury  Trelawney,Bt. 

Sir  R.  Rawlinson  Vyvyan,  Bart. 

Sir  Wm.  Molesworth,  Bart. 

Sir  Charles  Lemon,  Bart. 

Sir  Joseph  Copley,  Bart. 

Sir.  Wm.  Pratt  Call,  Bart. 

Sir  Thos.  Dyke  Acland,  Bart. 

Sir  J.  Colman  Rashleigh,  Bart. 

Sir  J.  S.-Graves  Sawle,  Bart. 

Sir  Antony  Buller,  Kt. 

Sir  J.  Nugent  Smith,  Kt. 

Sir  Samuel  Thomas  Spry,  Kt. 


Edward  Pole,  D.D. 

Edward  Rodd,  D.D. 

John  Kendal  Fletcher,  D.D. 

Henry  Prynn  Andrew,  Esq. 

Josh.  Thomas  Austen,  Esq. 

Wm.  A.  Harris  Arundel,  Esq. 

Edward  Archer,  of  Trelask,  Esq. 

John  Basset,  Esq. 

Thomas  Bewes,  Esq. 

Thomas  Bond,  Esq. 

John  Boger,  Esq. 

John  Borlase,  Esq. 

Samuel  Borlase,  Esq. 

John  Braddon,  Esq 

Charles  Prideaux  Brune,  Esq. 

G.  F.  Collins  Browne,  Esq. 

John  Buller,  Esq. 

Charles  Buller,  Esq. 

Fred.  William  Buller,  Esq. 

John  Burrell,  Esq. 

William  Lemon  Blew  ett,  Esq. 


C.  N.  Bray,  of  Longford  Hill,  Esq. 

Nicholas  Marty  n  Buckett,  Esq. 

George  Cotsford  Call,  Esq. 

William  Carlyon,  Esq. 

John  Carpenter,  Esq. 

John  Carthew,  Esq. 

Matthew  Garland  Cregoe,  Esq. 

Edward  Collins,  Esq. 

John  Tillie  Coryton,  Esq. 

William  Cornish,  Esq. 

Edward  Collins,  Esq. 

Wm.  Henry  Pole  Carew,  Esq. 

Josh.  Carre,  Esq. 

W.  B   Call,  of  Whiteford,  Esq. 

Edw.Carlyon,  of  Tregrahan,  Esq. 

Clement  Carlyon,  of  Truro,  Esq. 

A.Coryton,ofPentillieCastle,Esq. 

Thomas  Daniell,  Esq. 

Richard  Doige,  Esq. 

Zachary  Ilammett  Drake,  Esq. 

Stephen  Davey,  of  Redruth  Esq. 


230 


ENGLAND    IN    THE    NINETEENTH    CENTURY. 


Richard  Davey,  of  Redruth,  Esq. 

Jonathan  Elford,  Esq. 

John  Samuel  Enys,  Esq. 

Carteret  John  Wm   Ellis,  Esq. 

John  Inglett  Fortescue,  Esq. 

J.  Dicker  Inglett  Fortescue,  Esq. 

G.  Croker  Fox,  of  Falmouth,  Esq. 

Francis  Glanville,  Esq. 

Francis  Glanville,  Esq.  the  yr. 

John  Gould,  Esq. 

G.  W.  Francis  Gregor,  Esq. 

William  Slade  Gully,  Esq. 

Robert  Lovell  Gwatkin,  Esq. 

John  Davies  Gilbert,  Esq. 

Francis  Glanville  Gregor,  Esq. 

John  Hornbrook  Gill,  Esq. 

John  Harris,  Esq. 

Isaac  Donnithorne  Harris,  Esq. 

John  Hawkins,  Esq. 

John  Hawker,  Esq. 

John  Hext,  Esq. 

William  Hext,  Esq. 

Thomas  Hoblyn,  Esq. 

Wm.  David  Horndon,  Esq. 

John  Hoskin,  Esq. 

James  Harvey  Hosken,  Esq. 

David  Howell,  Esq. 

Charles  Henry  Hotchkys,  Esq. 

John  Hall,  Esq. 

Thomas  Hext,  Esq. 

C.  Pollexfen  Hamlyn,  Esq. 
James  Halse,  Esq. 
William  Hext,  Esq. 

D.  P.  Hoblyn,  of  Colquite,  Esq. 
F.  B.  Hambly,  of  Treharrock,  Esq. 
Richard  Johns,  Esq. 

George  John,  Esq. 

William  Jope,  Esq. 

Wm.  T.  Johns,  Esq. 

Nicholas  Kendall,  Esq. 

Arthur  Kelly,  of  Kelly,  Esq. 

George  Boughton  Kingdon,  Esq. 

William  Peter  Kempe,  Esq. 

John  Lyne,  Esq. 

John  King  Lethbridge,  Esq. 

Day  Perry  Le  Grice,  Esq. 

R.  G.  Lakes,  of  Trevarrick,  Esq. 

J.  Littleton,  Esq. 

James  Bryant  Messenger,  Esq. 

William  Marshall,  Esq. 

John  Penberthy  Magor,  Esq. 

E.  Morshead,  of  Rose  Bank,  Esq. 
W.  Morshead,  of  Lavethan,  Esq. 
John  Toupe  Nicholas,  Esq. 

W.  Nattle,  of  Cudsonbury,  Esq. 

John  Paynter,  Esq. 

Samuel  Humphry  Pellew,  Esq. 

Samuel  Pellew,  Esq. 

E.  W.  Wynne  Pendarves,  Esq. 

John  Penhallow  Peters,  Esq. 

William  Peter,  Esq. 

Robert  Rous  Peter,  Esq. 


Thomas  John  Phillipps,  Esq. 
Christopher  Wallis  Popham,  Esq. 
Wm.  Tyringham  Praed,  Esq. 
Samuel  Pym,  Esq. 
T.  Pearse,  of  Launceston,  Esq. 
J.  T.  Rous  Peter,  of  Harlyn,  Esq. 
J.  T.  H  Peter,  of  Harlyn,  Esq. 
R.  G.  Polwhele,  of  Polwhele,  Esq. 
John  Quicke,  Esq. 
William  Rashleigh,  Esq. 
Barrington  Reynolds,  Esq. 
T.  J.  Agar  Robarts,  Esq. 
William  Pender  Roberts,  Esq. 
John  Coryton  Roberts,  Esq. 
Philip  Vyvyan  Robinson,  Esq. 
Frederick  Rogers,  Esq. 
Francis  Rodd,  Esq. 
Wm.  Rashleigh,  Esq.  the  yr.,  of 

Menabilly. 
H.  P.  Rawlings,  Esq.  of  Padstow. 
John  Rundle,  Esq. 
C.  Rashleigh,  Esq.  of  Prideaux. 
William  Sandys  Sandys,  Esq. 
John  Scobell,  Esq. 
John  Nugent  Smith,  Esq. 
Richard  Spry,  Esq. 
George  Strode,  Esq. 
Augustus  Smith,  Esq. 
C  Brune  Graves  Sawle,  Esq. 
R.  S.  Sutton,  of  Falmouth,  Esq. 
John  Ustick  Scobell,  Esq. 
Henry  Thomson,  Esq. 
Lovell  Todd,  Esq. 
John  Hearle  Tremayne,  Esq. 
J.  T.  P.  B.  Trevanion,  Esq. 
J.  C.  Bettesworth  Trevanion,  Esq. 
Charles  Trelawney,  Esq. 
H.  Pendarves  Tremenheere,  Esq. 
Edmund  Turner,  Esq. 
J.  S.  Trelawny,  of  Harewood,  Esq. 
Jedediah  Stephens  Tucker,  Esq. 
John  Jervis  Tucker,  Esq. 
John  Ennis  Vivian,  Esq. 
John  Vivian,  Esq. 
John  Vowler,  Esq. 
Richard  Vyvyan,  Esq. 
James  Veitch,  Esq. 
Major  C.  Crespigny  Vivian. 
John  Vigurs,  of  Rose  Hill,  Esq. 
Humphry  Willyams,  Esq. 
William  Williams,  Esq. 
Michael  Williams,  Esq. 
Thomas  Wetherall,  Esq. 
Captain  Geo.  Wightman. 
J.M.Williams,  Esq. 
Wm.  Arundel  Yeo,  Esq. 
Rev.  James  Blencowe. 
Rev.  Richard  Budd. 
Rev.  Richard  Buller. 
Rev.  John  Buller. 
Rev.  Robert  Stapylton  Bree. 


Rev.  Philip  Carlyon. 

Rev.  Samuel  Cole. 

Rev.  George  Cornish. 

Rev.  S.  Chilcote,  of  Otterham. 

Rev.  John  Davis. 

Rev.  Henry  Thomas  Dyke. 

Rev.  Edward  Dix. 

Rev.  Thomas  Fisher. 

Rev.  George  Fortescue. 

Rev.  Tobias  Fourneaux. 

Rev.  Walter  Gee. 

Rev.  John  Pomeroy  Gilbert. 

Rev.  John  Glanville. 

Rev.  Richard  Gerveys  Grylls. 

Rev.  R.  Gerveys  Grylls,  the  yr. 

Rev.  Thomas  Grylls. 

Rev.  Granville  Leveson  Gower. 

Rev.  Elliot  Graham. 

Rev.  Samuel  Hart. 

Rev.  Francis  John  Hext. 

Rev.  Henry  Charles  Hobart. 

Rev.  William  Hocken. 

Rev.  Charles  Hodgson. 

Rev.  Peter  Fry  Hony. 

Rev.  John  Jope. 

Rev.  Charles  Trevanion  Kempe. 

Rev.  John  Kempe. 

Rev.  Nicholas  Kendall. 

Rev.  John  Kingdon. 

Rev.  Thomas  Hockin  Kingdon. 

Rev.  Charles  Lethbridge. 

Rev.  Thomas  Hunt  Ley. 

Rev.  Charles  Lyne. 

Rev.  Charles  Valentine  Le  Grice. 

Rev.  Charles  Marshall. 

Rev.  William  Molesworth. 

Rev.  Edward  Morshead. 

Rev.  Hender  Molesworth. 

Rev.  Richard  Martin. 

Rev.  John  Molesworth. 

Rev.  John  Peter. 

Rev.  John  Phillipps. 

Rev.  Thomas  Pascoe. 

Rev.  T.  Philpotts,  of  Gwenap. 

Rev.  Thomas  Robyns. 

Rev.  John  Rogers. 

Rev.  Edward  Rogers. 

Rev.  John  Sheepshanks. 

Rev.  Thomas  Scott  Smyth. 

Rev.  William  Stackhouse. 

Rev.  Darell  Stephens. 

Rev.  Samuel  Symonds. 

Rev.  Uriah  Tonkin. 

Rev.  George  Treweeke. 

Rev.  Arthur  Tatham. 

Rev.  Robert    Michael     Nowell 

Ustick. 
Rev.  William  Veale. 
Rev.  Vyell  Francis  Vyvyan. 
Rev.  John  Wallis. 
Rev.  Henry  Woollcombe. 


CORNWALL.  231 

Militia. — Cornwall  furnishes  two  regiments  of  militia  in  time  of  war.  The  first,  or  Duke  of  Corn- 
wall's Hangers,  is  commanded  by  the  Earl  of  Mount  Edgcumbe,  and  its  rendezvous  is  at  Bodmin. 
The  second  is  called  the  Royal  Cornwall  Miners,  and  its  head-quarters  are  at  Truro ;  the  Colonel 
is  the  Lord  Warden  of  the  Stannaries.     The  only  garrison  in  the  county  is  at  Pendennis  Castle. 

Rental — Taxes. — The  average  rental  of  land  in  1815  was  13s.  Ad. ;  the  annual  value  assessed  to 
property-tax  under  Schedule  A.  was  922,259/. ;  under  D.  230,112/. ;  rental,  566,472/.  The  return  of 
land  and  assessed  taxes  in  1809,  was  48,647/. ;  the  assessments,  1830,  121,203/. ;  with  47  select  vestries. 

Places  of  Religious  Worship. — A  few  years  ago,  when  an  accurate  return  was  made  of  the  places  of 
religious  worship  in  this  county,  there  were  197  churches  and  chapels  of  the  establishment,  2  Roman- 
catholic,  31  independent,  12  Baptist,  10  Quaker,  219  Wesleyan,  and  42  other  methodist,  4  missionary 
and  other  stations, — total  320,  with  197  of  the  establishment,  making  a  total  of  517  places  of  worship. 
There  is  no  doubt  a  considerable  increase  upon  these  numbers  since  the  return  was  made. 

Endowed  Grammar  Schools.  —  Bodmin. — Endowed  by  Queen  Elizabeth  with  5/.  6s.  8d.  per  annum, 
and  to  this  the  corporation  adds  95/.  more  for  a  master's  salary. 

St.  Ives. — A  grammar-school  was  founded  here  by  Charles  I.,  in  1639. 

Launceston. — Here  a  royal  grammar-school  was  founded  by  Queen  Elizabeth,  and  endowed  with 
17/.  13s.  3%d.  An  additional  sum  annually  of  10/.  was  given  by  George  Baron,  in  1685,  with  a  power 
to  nominate  ten  boys  free  of  expense.     The  Duke  of  Northumberland  gives  15/  annually. 

Liskeard. — The  date  and  founder  of  the  Liskeard  grammar-school  are  alike  unknown.  The  site 
is  where  an  old  castle  of  the  Duchy  of  Cornwall  once  stood.  There  is  no  endowment,  but  100/.  per 
annum  from  the  corporation.     The  celebrated  Dean  Prideaux  was  educated  here. 

Penryn. — The  grammar-school  in  St.  Gluvias  here  was  founded  by  Queen  Elizabeth,  and  endowed 
with  6/.  18s.  annually,  out  of  the  land  revenue,  for  teaching  three  boys. 

Saltash. — Queen  Elizabeth  founded  a  grammar-school  here,  and  endowed  it  with  7/. 

Truro. — The  founder  of  this,  the  most  celebrated  school  in  the  county,  is  unknown  ;  the  salary 
paid  to  a  master  by  the  corporation  it  is  supposed  was  the  product  of  lands  vested  in  their  hands 
at  a  very  early  period.  The  school-room  is  an  old  structure,  42  feet  long  and  28  broad,  with  Corin- 
thian columns  and  pilasters  ;  and  attached  to  it  is  a  library,  containing  some  excellent  books,  placed 
under  the  control  of  the  master,  to  be  lent  to  the  scholars  as  he  may  see  fitting.  One  of  the  Lords 
Falmouth  added  25/.  per  annum  to  the  school  revenues.  There  is  attached  an  exhibition  at  St.  Mary's 
College,  Oxford,  arising  from  the  bequest  of  the  Rev.  St.  John  Elliot,  once  rector  of  St.  Mary's  here. 
Three  medals  were  annually  given  in  this  school  to  the  reciters  in  public  of  speeches  in  English  and 
Latin ;  first  by  Governor  Macarmick,  and  secondly  by  Lord  Falmouth.  Many  eminent  men  were 
educated  here  ;  among  them  Foote,  the  comedian ;  Henry  Martyn,  the  orientalist,  who  died  in 
Persia ;  Polwhele,  the  historian  ;  Davy,  the  great  chemist ;  Pellew,  afterwards  Lord  Exmouth,  of 
Algiers  ;  Hitchens,  who  began  the  history  of  his  native  county — carried  out  and  published  by  Drew  ; 
and  several  living  characters  of  eminence.  The  masters  were  several  of  them  rectors  of  St.  Mary, 
in  Truro  ;  the  appointment  of  1600  bears  the  name  of  John  Hodge,  and  is  followed  by  T.  Syms, 
1609;  M.  Sharrock,  1612  ;  N.  Upcot,  1618  ;  G.  Phippen,  1620;  W.  White,  1635;  R.  Jago,  1666; 
this  last,  for  what  reason  is  not  stated,  was  dismissed  in  1685,  and  was  succeeded  by  G.  H.  Greenfield  ; 
S.  Paget,  1693;  J.  Hillman,  1698;  T.  Hankyn,  and  J  Jane,  1706;  G.  Conon,  1728.  Mr.  Conon 
recovered  the  school  from  a  state  of  much  depression.  He  resigned  July  3,  1771,  and  was  succeeded 
by  Dr.  Cornelius  Cardew,  who  extended  the  fame  of  the  school  yet  further,  and  augmented  consider- 
ably the  number  of  the  scholars.  Dr.  Cardew  resigned  in  1805,  and  retired  to  the  rectory  of 
St.  Erme,  where  he  died  at  a  very  advanced  age.  The  school  now  ceased  to  be  exclusively  a  gram- 
mar-school, but  the  classics  still  made  an  essential  part  of  the  system,  under  the  superintendence  of 
Thomas  Hogg,  who  was  the  next  master  elected. 

Schools. — The  numbers  educated  in  schools,  were,  in  the  National,  in  union,  3,672  ;  British  and 
Foreign,  540;  Sabbath,  in  union,  13,211 ;  total,  17,423. 

Charities. — The  annual  rental  of  the  endowed  public  charities  was  746/.  18s  Gd. ;  but  no  return 
was  made  of  those  entered  with  the  clerk  of  the  peace  in  the  paper  laid  before  the  House  of  Commons 
with  the  other  counties. 

Newspapers. — There  are  three  newspapers  in  Cornwall ;  the  Cornwall  Gazette,  the  West  Briton, 
and  the  Falmouth  racket,  all  of  considerable  standing  in  the  county,  and  respectably  conducted. 


232 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


ECCLESIASTICAL   BENEFICES, 

Episcopal  Jurisdiction. — Anciently,  it  is  believed,  under  its  own  Bishops,  resident  at  St.  Germans,  but  this  is 
disputed ;  at  present  in  the  Diocese  of  Exeter. 

Archdeaconry. — Limit,  the  county,  including  the  Scilly  Isles,  with  32  parishes  of  exempt  jurisdiction.  The  Visita- 
tions ai-e  held  at  Launceston,  Liskeard,  Bodmin,  Truro,  Helston,  and  Penzance,  a  little  after  Easter. 

Deaneries. — These  are  in  number  eight ;  namely,  East,  Kirrier,  Penwith,  Powder,  Pydar,  Trigg  Major,  Trigg 
Minor,  and  West. — The  office  of  Rural  Dean  has  always  been  an  efficient  office  in  Cornwall. 

Spiritual  Court. — The  Archdeacon's  Spiritual  Court  has  been  held  at  Bodmin  since  1750,  every  other  Friday,  except 
at  Easter  and  Christmas. 

Parishes. — In  the  sense  of  ecclesiastical  jurisdiction,  the  parishes  of  St.  Giles-in-the-Heath,  North  Petherwin,  and 
Werrington,  the  two  last  separated  from  the  territory  of  Cornwall,  as  it  is  supposed  by  the  Abbots  of  Tavistock,  to 
whom  these  lands  belonged,  make  206  parishes  :  in  civil  jurisdiction,  203.  Of  these,  85  are  Rectories;  100  Vicarages; 
and  18  Donatives  or  Curacies.  The  great  Tithes  of  most  of  the  two  last  descriptions  are  lay  impropriations.  At  the 
early  part  of  the  last  century,  the  richest  living  was  that  of  St.  Columb,  estimated  at  400/.  per  annum,  now  1,500/. ;  five 
were  of  the  estimated  value  of  300/. ;  two  of  220/. ;  fifteen  of  200/. ;  one  of  170/. ;  nine  of  150/. ;  twelve  from  100/.  to  150/  ; 
twenty-seven  of  100/. ;  and  the  remainder  under  that  sum.  The  Scilly  Islands  are  within  the  Archdeaconry,  having 
one  chapel. 

DEANERY 

DIOCESE  OF  EXETER. 


PARISHES. 


Anthony,  East 

Botus  Fleming 

Callington | 

Stfe'Southill    .  .  .) 

Calstock 

Dominick,  St 

Ernei/,St.,sceTiaudvakti 

Germans,  St 

John,  or  St  John's  .  . 

Ive,  St 

Landrake,  w.  St.Eruey 

Landulph    

Lawhitton 

Lewannick 


Lezant 


Linkinhorne 


Maker 


Million,  St. .  .  . 
Menheniot  .  .  . 
Northill  .... 
I'illaton  .... 
Quithiock    .  .  . 

liame 

Sheviock  .... 

Southill 

w.  CaUhujton  .  .     / 
St.  Stephen's,  Saltash 
Stoke-Climsland .  .  . 


• 


Gross 

tion. 

Ann. 

Val. 

1831. 
£ 

V. 

285 

11. 

236 

R. 

.  . 

R. 

520 

R. 

400 

C. 

.   . 

C. 

143 

R. 

211 

R. 

403 

V. 

282 

V. 

340 

R. 

480 

V. 

242 

R. 

522 

V. 

315 

V. 

223 

R. 

220 

V. 

1020 

R. 

487 

R. 

235 

V. 

346 

R. 

206 

R. 

412 

R. 

868 

V. 

100 

R. 

621 

Curates' 
Stipend. 


£ 


125 


78 

120 

75 

43 

120 


74 

156 

60 


20 
00 


U} 

100 
104 


•a  c 
•SB 


INCUMBENTS. 


£ 

23  G.  P.  Carew 
46 1 W.  Spry 


10  E.  Morshead  . 
82  F.  L.  Bazeley 


.  .    T.  Furneaux  .  . 

32  W.  Row    .  .  .  . 

41  J.  Jope 

.  .    T.  II.  Ley    .  .  . 

.  .  E.V.J.  Arundel 
.  .  F.  du  Boulay  .  . 
.  .  JA.  H.  Gore .  .  . 

116  W.S.Carey   .  . 

3  E.  M.  Kempe.  . 
.  .    D.  Stephens    .  . 

4  G.  Coryton  .  .  . 
216  R.  Martin  .  .  .  . 

76  C.  Rodd 

32  H.  Woolcombe  . 

20  J.  R.  Fletcher  . 
.  .  T.  H.  Ley  .  .  . 
.  .    G.  P.  Carew   .  . 

120  H.  M.  Rice  .  .  . 

i 
20  0  Manley   .  .  . 
.  .    W.  Carwithen   . 


o.2 
w  0 


1841 
1826 


CURATES'  NAMES 


1795  J.  Gill 
1835 


1828  

1808  John  Adams 
1806  W.  Nattle  .  . 
1820  W.  Grylls  .  . 
1805  

1839  

1840  


PATRONS. 


Tithe  Com- 
mutations. 


W.  II.  P.  Carew 

W.  Spry    .  . 
/Ld.Ashburtonj 
(G   Stroud   ..'/"' 

The  Crown  .  .!  425 

F.  L.  Bazeley 


£      s.  d. 


1830 


1796  E.  Trelawney 

I 
1841  T.  Pigott.    .  . 

1831  M.  Anstis  .  . 

1832J  

1816  T.  L   Hill  .  . 

1816 

1824 

1841 


1841 


1841 
1840  II. 

I 


J   Roberts  .  .  .  .  , 

f  G.  Martin  .  .    ) 

\J.  K.Fletcher/ 


A.  Gilbert 


D.&  C.Windsor 
R.  P  Carew  .  . 
The  Crown  .  . 
Visct.  Valletort. 
Dy.  of  Cornwall 
Bp.  of  Exeter  .  . 
Ld.  Chancellor  . 

Bp.  of  Exeter   f 

Rev.  Mr.  Kempe 

Ld. Chancellor  < 

J.  T.  Coryton    . 

Exeter  Coll.Oxf. 

F.  H.  Rodd .  .  . 

E.  Collins .... 

Bp.  of  Exeter    . 

El  M  Edgcumbe 

W.  H.  P.  Carew 
f  Ld  Ashburton 
\  G.  Stroud    .  . 

T.  Edwards.  .  . 

Dy.  of  Cornwall 


116 
430 


0  0 


0  0 
0  0 


360     0  0 


12 

9  0 

461 

8  0 

130 

0  0 

224 

0  (1 

225 

0  0 

1100 
538 


0  0 
9   0 


214 


0  0 


730     0  0 


DEANERY 


Anthony  in  Meneage 

Breage,  w.  Cury   &  ) 

(iunwallo ) 

Budoch,  see  Gluvias  . 

Constantine 

Cury,  see  Breage    .  . 


V. 

101 

71 

. . 

V. 

870 

ra 

110 

V. 

.  . 

V. 

521 

. , 

71 

V. 

•  • 

'  '  i 

W.  Polwhele  .  .1828 
R.  G.  Grylls  .  .1809 


E.  Rogers. 


1817 


E.  Budge    .  .  .  . 

f  J.  Perry  .  .  .\ 
(J.  Stevenson  ./ 


Ld.Chancellor  < 
The  Crown  .  . 

D.  & ;<5.  of  Exeter 


210    oo 
140     0  0 


CORNWALL. 


233 


INCUMBENTS,  CUKATES,  PATRONS,  &c. 

The  Devonshire  parishes  of  St.  Giles,  North  Petherwin,  and  Werrington,  are  in  the  Cornish  Deanery  of  Trigg  Major, 
within  the  Archdeaconry;  and  so  are  the  Scilly  Isles.  Thirty-two  parishes  have  exempt  jurisdiction,  of  which  twenty- 
one  are  in  the  peculiar  jurisdiction  of  the  Bishop  of  Exeter ;  viz.  Anthony  in  Roseland,  Breock,  Budock,  Evall,  Eglo- 
sheyle,  Erney,  Ervan,  Falmouth,  St.  Germans,  Gerrans,  Gluvias,  Issey,  Landrake,  Lawhitton,  Lezant,  Mabe,  Merrin, 
My  lor,  Padstow-town,  (the  rest  of  the  parish  being  within  the  archdeacon's  jurisdiction,)  Little  Pttherick,  South 
Petherwin,  and  Trewen. 

The  parishes  of  St.  Agnes,  Boconnoc,  Broadoak,  Perranzabulo,  and  St.  Winnow,  are  in  the  peculiar  jurisdiction  of  the 
Dean  and  Chapter  of  Exeter.  Burian,  St.  Levan,  and  Sennen  in  that  of  the  Dean  of  Burian.  Lanhydrock  and  Temple 
are  in  lay  jurisdiction.  The  registry  for  wills  of  these  two  last  parishes  is  in  the  archdeacon's  registry  at  Bodmin,  or  in 
Doctors'  Commons.  In  the  Dean  of  Burian's  registry  at  Penzance,  or  Doctors'  Commons,  for  his  three  parishes.  At 
Exeter,  or  Doctors'  Commons,  for  the  parishes  in  the  Bishop's  jurisdiction  ;  and  in  the  same  places  for  those  of  the 
Dean  and  Chapter  of  Exeter.  The  Archdeacon's  registers,  at  Bodmin,  commence  in  1569  ;  and  here  the  three  parishes 
of  St.  Giles,  North  Petherwin,  and  Werrington  register,  or  otherwise  in  Doctors'  Commons. 


The  parishes  in  italics  are  daughter-churches.     V.  signifies  Vicarage ;   R.  Rectory  ;  C.  Curacy ;  D.  Donative. 

OF  EAST. 

ARCHDEACONRY  OF  CORNWALL. 


TITHE  OWNERS. 


Rector 


Glebe. 


A.     R.      P, 


Rector 
Rector 


Rector 


Oxf.  Univ.  College . 
Rector 


Impropriator 
Vicar  .  .  .  . 
Rector  .  .  .  . 
Vicar  .  .  .  . 
Rector  .  .  .  . 


:::} 


Rector 


63 


(14 


Rector 


Tax.  et  Valor. 
1291  or  1294. 


£  s.  d. 
6  0  0 
2   13     4 


5  0  0 

4  6  8 

10  0  0 

2  6  8 

4  3 

4  13 


4 
4 
4      0     0 


4  0  0 

5  0  0 

4  6  8 

5  0  0 

4     0  0 

8     0  0 

0  0 

6 


8 
0     0 

6     8 

6     8 


5   13     4 

9     6     8 
5     6     8 


Tax.  et  Valor 
Henry  V11I. 


£  s.  d. 
12  17  6 
16  15  0 


26  4  4 
23  11  0 

not  named. 
12  4  4 
26  0  0 

18  12 
20  3 

19  6 
7  18 


32  0  0 
13  0  0 
23  11  0 


11  12 
21  15 
36  6 
16  15 
15  11 

12  7 
26   14 


38     0     0 

26     0     0 
40     0     0 


Statute 
Acres. 


2800 
290 

2600 

5450 
2680 

881 
10,050 

640 
7800 
2759 
1880 
2570 
3920 

4660 

8270 

1260 

2970 
6280 
7540 
3140 
4220 
1200 
2290 

3580 

4880 
8880 


Popula- 
tion, 
1831. 


3099 
279 

1388 

2328 
726 

2586 
150 
656 
872 
570 
485 
643 

841 

1159 

2637 

330 
1253 
1155 

413 

692 
896 
453 

530 

3092 
1608 


POST  TOWNS. 


Devon  port.  . 
Saltash .  .  .  . 

Callington  .  . 

Callington  .  . 

Callington  .  . 

Saltash .  .  .  . 
St.  Germans 

Devonport .  . 

Callington  .  . 

Saltash .  .  .  . 

Saltash .  .  .  . 

Launceston  . 

Launceston  . 

Launceston  . 


Callington  .  . 

Devonport .   . 

Callington  .  . 
Liskeard .  .  . 
Launceston  . 
Callington  .  . 
Callington  .  . 
Devonport .  . 
St.  Germans 


Callington 

Saltash.  . 
Callington 


PARISHES. 


Anthony,  East. 

Botus  Fleming. 
J  Callington, 
\      See  Southill. 

Calstock. 

Dominick,  St. 

Erney,  St.,see  Landrake 

Germans,  St. 

John,  or  St  John's. 

Ive,  St. 

Landrake,  w.  St.  Erney, 

Landulph. 

Lawhitton. 

Lewannick. 

Lezant. 

Linkinhorne. 

Maker. 

Mellion,  St. 

Menheniot. 

Northill. 

Pillaton. 

Quithiock. 

Rame. 

Sheviock. 

( Southill, 

\      w.  Calling/mi. 
St.  Stephen's,  Saltash. 
Stoke-Climsland. 


OF  KIRRIER. 


—  Gregor \ 

Vicar  ; J 

/  Mrs.  Richards  &  \ 
\     others J 


62     2  22 


D.  &  C.  of  Exeter  . 


4  13     4 
16     0     0 

10     0     0 


4   15  11 

33     0     0 

See  Gluvias 

19     8   10£ 

See  Breage. 


1410 

300 

7390 

5149 

3507 

1797 

8470 

2004 

3420 

523 

Helston   . 

Helston    . 

Penryn  . 
Falmouth 
Helston    . 


Anthony  in  Meneage. 

B  re  age. 

Budock,  see  Gluvias. 
Constantine. 
Cury,  see  Breage. 


II  li 


234 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


DIOCESE  OF  EXETER. 


DEANERY  OF 


PARISHES. 


Falmouth 

Germoe,  see  Breage  . 

Gluvias \ 

to,  Budock  ....  J 
Sf  Penwerris    .  .  . 

Grade 

Gunivallo,  see  Breage 

Gwennap 

St.  Day,  or  Dye    . 
Helston,  see  Wendron . 

Keverne,  St , 

Landewednack    .  . 

Mabe,  see  Mylor    . 

Manaccan 

Mawgan  in  Meneage 
w.   St.    Martin  in 
Meneage.  .  . 
Maw  nan 

My  lor,  w.  Mabe  .  .  . 

Mullion 

Perran  ArwothaJ,see\ 

Stithians / 

Ruan  Major 

Ruan  Minor 

Sithney 

Stithians,  w.  Perran) 
Arwothal / 

Wendron,  w.  Helston 


Gross 
Descrip-  Ann 


tion. 


R. 

V. 

V. 

C. 
R. 

V. 

V. 

c. 

V. 
V. 
R. 

V. 

V. 

R. 

R. 
V. 


V. 

R, 
R. 
V. 

V. 
V. 


Val. 
1831 


854 


276 


527 
150 

448 
270 


235 
630 

393 
401 

200 

195 

97 
440 

474 
1090 


Curates' 
Stipend. 


218) 
.150/ 


100 


150 


50 


66 

100 
80 


■3    C 


£ 
166 


33 

45 

65 
17 

26 
10 

70 
53 

22 


4 

6 

72 

97 
212 


INCUMBENTS. 


W.  J.  Coope  . 

J.  Sheepshanks 
J.  Peter .... 

T.  Phillpots    . 

D.  Evans  .  .  . 
Ed.  Griffith  .  . 

E.  Budge  .  .  . 
H.  Mann  .  .  . 

R.  B.  Kinsman 

E.  Hohlyn    .  . 

F.  Gregory  .  . 


E.  Griffith  .  .  . 
R.  T.  St.  Auhyn 
W.Thomas.  .  . 

H.  W.  Hockins. 

fG.B.  Boras-) 

\   ton,  jun.    ./ 


Q"3 


J.  W.  Johns .  . 


1824 
1817 

1825 

1839 
1840 

1839 
1816 

1838 
1823 

1834 


1840 
1814 
1839 


1837 


CURATES'  NAMES. 


H.B.Illingworth 
R.  F.  Wise  .  .  . 
G.  Kemp  .  .  .  . 


J.  Flamank  .  .  . 
A.  A.  Yaw  drey 


J.  Rate 


J.  Symonds 


J.  Peter 


J.  P.  Keigwin'.  .  . 

W.M.Stracey/ 
G.  Barlow  .  ./ 


PATRONS. 


Ld.  Wodehouse. 


Bp.  of  Exeter. 
Reps.ofJ.Rogers 


D  &C.  of  Exeter 
Vic.  of  Gwennap 


Mr.  Hill 

P.  V.  Robinson . 


Bp.  of  Exeter . 


G.  Trevelyan 


J.  Rogers .  .  .  . 
Bp.  of  Exeter,  -j 

Bp.  of  Exeter.  -J 


P.  V.  Robinson . 
P.  V.  Robinson. 
Bp.  of  Exeter .  . 

Ld.  Falmouth  < 
Qun.'s  Coll.  Oxf 


Tithe  Com- 
mutations. 


£    S.   d. 


165  0  0 

105  0  0 

225  0  0 

420  0  0 

135  0  0 


141  14  1 
170  0  0 

240  0  0 


160  0  0 

350  0  0 

215  0  0 

310  0  0 

225  0  0 


170     0  0 


255     7  6 
322     0  0 


DEANERY 


Burian,  St.  w.  ) 

St.  Leven  &  Sennen  / 

Camborne , 

Crowan , 

Earth,  St.,  or  Erth    . 

Gulval 

Gwinear 

Givithian,  see  Phillack 

Hilary,  St.  and  ) 

Marazion  Chapel    J 

Illogan,  w.  Trevenson 

Just,  St.,  in  Penwith 

Ives,  St 

Lclant-Euny,  or 

Enny-Lelant,  w. 

Towedn.ick .  .  . 

Lernn,  St.,  see  Burian 

Ludgvan  

Modern,  or  Madron,  \ 
w.  Morvah  .  .  .  .   / 

Morvah,  see  Madern . 

Paul 

Penzance 


R. 

1012 

fl56j 
1146/ 

8 

R, 

8.33 

100 

43 

V. 
V. 

V. 
V. 
V. 

559 
300 
400 
362 

115 

108 

51 

1 

54 

\P.C. 

389 
96 

}■• 

78 

R. 

624 

100 

37 

V. 

450 

.  . 

1 

V. 

150 

V. 

441 

.. 

3 

R. 
R. 

•  • 

V. 

740 

f  88  \ 
X   53J 

V. 

.   , 

.  . 

.  . 

V. 
P.  C. 

382 

156 

•  • 

2 

F.H.R.  Stanhope 

H.  Rogers    .  .  . 

J.  M.  St.  Auhyn 
J.  Punnet .  .  .  . 
W.  Wingfield.  . 
J.  G.  Wulff .  .  . 


T.  Pascoe 
J.  H.  Town 
send,  1822 

G.  Treweeke  . 

J.  Buller   .  .  . 

W.  J.  Havart. 

U.  Tonkin   .  . 

H.  E.'  Graham 
M.  N.  Peters  . 


C.  G.  R.  Festing 
E.  Shuttle  worth 


1819 
1816 

1833 
18.39 
1833 

1814 

1819 
1822 
1825 
1836 

1832 

1835 
1838 


1827 
1840 


'W.M.  Straceyj 
C.  Jenkyns .   / 

C.  Hickson    .  .  .  . 

Wm.  Borlase  .  . 


I 


C.  Grylls 

E.  M.  Pridmore 


W.  Griffith    . 


J.  N.  Campbell  .  . 
H.  Pennick  .  .  , 
G.  Morris .  .  .  . 
E.  Shuttleworth 


W.  O.  Gurney   , 
See  Madron. 


The  Crown  .  . 

Ld  Dunstanville 

Sir  J.  St.  Aubyn 
D.  &  C.  of  Exeter 
The  Crown  . 
Bishop  of  Exeter 

f  Du.of  Leeds  ^| 
<  and  others.  > 
(V.St.Hilary  ) 

Ld.  Dunstanville 

The  Crown  . 

Vic.of  Towed- \ 
nack  &  Lelant ) 

Bp.  of  Exeter  { 


Duke  of  Bolton 
M.  N.  Peters  . 


The  Crown  . 
Cor.  of  Penzance 


570  0  0 

/     8  0  0 
\900  0  0 


234   19  6 


105 
140 


0  0 
0  0 


670     0  0 

(212  100 
\175    0  0 


250 
205 


0  0 
0  0 


250     0  0 
800     0  0 


'68     0  0 
69   19  9 


CORNWALL. 


235 


KIRR  IE  \l- con  tin  iicd. 


ARCHDEACONRY  OF  CORNWALL. 


TITHE  OWNERS. 


Vicar 


D.  &  C.  of  Exeter  .} 

Vicar j 

Rector 

Various  Proprietors 


Impropriator 
Vicar  .... 
Impropriator 


Vicar 

Lord  Clinton  .  . 

Vicar 

Rev.  R.  Ustick , 
Vicar , 


:} 


S.  T.  Spry 

Lord  Falmouth  .  .    ) 

Vicar / 

/  Vicrge.  endowed ) 
\  with  great  Tithes  J 


Glebe. 


A.    R.    P. 


69      1   36 


38      1    19 


95 


Tax.  et  Valor. 
12U1  or  1294. 


Tax.  et  Valor. 
Henry  VIII. 


2  0     0  | 

3  0     0 

4  3     4 


7  0  0 
22  13  4 

4  0  0 

/    4  6  8\ 

\10  0  0/ 

4  3  8 

6  13  4 

8  0  0 

4  3  4 

6  6  8 

17  6  8 


Statute 
Acres. 


£    s.     d. 


See  Breage. 

21  16  9 
w.  Budock. 


Breage. 
16  18  9 


18  11 
11  16 


4  16  0£ 


35  10  0£ 


14  6  1 
16  15  0 

9  4  4 


16  10 

4  4 

19  11 

14  0 
26  19 


621 
1360 

2420 


1440 

7940 

130 
9650 
1300 

2410 

1371 

(2550) 
(5510/ 

2250 

3463 

4550 

4030 

2520 

890 

5670 

4490 
12,317 


Popula- 
tion, 
1831. 


7284 
1175 

4490 

306 

284 

8529 

3293 

2437 

406 

512 

654 

1094 

578 
2647 

733 


POST  TOWNS. 


Falmouth 
Helston  . 


Penryn 

Helston 
Helston 

Truro   . 


Helston  . 
Falmouth 
Helston   . 


Falmouth 
Falmouth 


Helston   . 

Falmouth 
Penryn    . 


Helston 


1504  'Penryn 


162 
269 

1874 
8073 


Helston 
Helston 
Helston 

Penryn 
Helston 


PARISHES. 


Falmouth. 

Geimoc,  see  Breage. 
Gluvias, 

w.  Budock, 

§•  Penwerris. 
Grade. 

Gunicalto,  see  Breage. 

Gwennap, 

St.  Day,  or  Dye. 
Helston,  see  Wendron. 
Keverne,  St. 
Landevvednack. 

Mabe,  see  Mylor. 

Manaccan. 
(  Mawgan  in  Meneage, 

I      w.    St.    Martin    in 
1  Meneage. 

Mawnan. 

Mylor,  tv.  Mabe. 

Mullion. 

j  Perran  Arwothal,  see 

\      Stithians. 
Ruan  Major. 
Ruan  Minor. 
Sithney. 

/Stithians,  w.  Perran 

X     Arwothal. 

Wendron,  w.  Helston. 


OF  PENWITH. 


Dean  of  Buriau  .  .  .  , 

Impropriator    ■  •  .    \ 

Rector / 

Sir  J.  St.  Aubyn    .  . 
D.  &  C.  of  Exeter    . 

Wm.  Blanco 

Exeter  Coll.  Oxford 
Rector 


Impropriator    .  .  . 
Vicar  of  St.  Hilary 


S.  Borlase 

Rector 

Impropriator    .  .  . 

W.  Praed 

Vicar j 

Dean  of  Burian  ...  J     .  . 
Rector 38     2 


55     0     0 


0     0     5 


'7     0     0 


9     0     0 


/C.  V.LeGrice,& 
\    D.  P.  Le  Grice 

Gt.Tifhes;r.  Madera, 
Small  with  Vicar 


Corporat.  of  Penzance 


(20     0     0\ 
i    5   11     8/ 

8     0     0 

8     0     0 
not  named. 
3     8     8 
5   13     4 
5   13     4 

3   13     4 

8     0     0 

8     0     0 

to.  Lelant 

15   13     4 

w.  Burian. 
7     0     0 

5     6     8 

not  named. 

9     6     8 

48   12  0 

39  16  9 

11  9  0£ 
14     1  0 

6   11  0i 

12  0  0 
Phillack. 

116  0 

22     7  5 

11    11  0i 

22  11  10* 


30  11     6 
21      5   10 

not  named. 
13  11     6 


6670 

6900 

7340 
3050 
3280 
4400 
2070 

3380 


8010 
7820 
1850' 

4215 

2400 
4560 

6810 

2060 

3530 
Madern. 


1707 

7699 

4332 
1922 
1467 
2728 
539 

3121 

6072 
4667 
4776 

1602 
515 

2322 

377 

4191 
6563 


Penzance 

Camborne 

Helston  . 
Marazion 
Penzance 
Redruth  . 
Redruth  . 

Marazion 

Redruth  . 
Penzance 
St.  Ives    . 

Heyle    .  . 

Penzance 
Penzance 

Penzance 

Penzance 

Penzance 
Penzance 


/Burian,  St ,  w. 

X   St.Leven,  &Sennen 

Camborne. 

Crowan. 

Earth,  St.,  or  Erth. 

Gulval. 

Gwinear. 

Gwilhian,  see  Phillack. 

/  Hilary,  St ,  and 
(    Marazion  Chapel. 

Illogan,  w.  Trevenson. 
Just,  St.,  in  Penwith. 
Ives,  St. 

(  Lelant-Euny,orEuny 
<    Lelant,   w.   Towed- 

(     nack. 

Levari,  St.,  see  Burian. 
Ludgvan. 

f  Madern,  or  Madron, 
X   w.  Morvah. 

Morvah,  see  Madern. 

Paul. 
Penzance. 


236 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


DIOCESE  OF  EXETER. 


DEANERY  OF 


PARISHES. 


Perran  Uthno,  or     \ 
Udaou j 


Descrip 
tion. 


R, 


Phillack,  w.  Gwithian 

Redruth,  (St.  Uny)   . 

Sancreed j     V, 

Sennen,  see  St.  Burian 
Towednack,  see  Lelant 

Zennar  , 


R. 
V. 


V 


Gross 
Ann. 
Val. 
1831. 

£ 

Curates' 
Stipend. 

+■> 

T3   P 

M  5 

s| 

£ 

£ 

316 

123 

44 

570 

.  . 

30 

501 

69 

265 

125 

•  • 

190 

11 

INCUMBENTS. 


W.  M.  Johnson 

W.  Hockin  .  .  . 
J.W.  Hawkesley 
H.  Comyn .... 

H.  Stoneman  .  . 


°  '5 

0J    o 


1815 

1809 
1835 
1829 


1837 


CURATES'  NAMES. 


II.  Stambury 
E.  Crow  .  .  , 


PATRONS. 


LadyCarrington 

W.  Hockin  .  .  . 
Lady  Basset  .  . 
D.&C.  of  Exeter 


Bp.  of  Exeter 


Tithe  Com- 
mutations. 


("165  0  0 
(344  12  8 
230     0  0 

166  18  2 
201    13  9 


DEANERY 


Allen,  St 

Anthony,  St.,  in  "( 
Roseland / 

Austle,  St.,  iv.  \ 

St.  Blazey   ....   J 

Blazey,  and  Pentuan,  \ 
see  St.  Austle .  .  .   j 

Clements,  St.  (Truro). 

Cornelly 

Creed,  w.  Grampound 
Cuby,  w.  St.  James,  \ 

(Tregony)  ....    J 
Denis,  St.,  see  St.     \ 

Michael  Carhayes  J 
Erme,  St.  Rectory .  . 


Ewe,  St. 


Feock 

Filley,  or  Philleigh, ) 
(Eglosros)  .  .  .  .    / 

Fowey  

Gerrans 

Gorran 

Just,  St.,  Roseland,   "I 

w.  St.  Mawes  .  .  .    / 
Kenwyn,  (Truro,) 

w.  Kea , 

St.  John's  Chapel  .  . 

Chacewater  Chapel  . 

Ladock  

Lamorran 

Lanlivery 

Lostwithiel 


Luxulian , 

Mary,  St.  (Truro) 

Merther , 

Mevagissy   .  .  .  . 


Me  wan,  St. 


MichaelCarhayes.St. 

St.  Stephens,  and     \-  R  &V. 

St.  Denis J 

Michael  Penkivel,  St.  .      R. 
Probus I     V. 


V. 
D. 
V. 
V. 


C. 

R. 

V. 


R&V. 
R. 

R. 

V. 
R. 

V. 

R. 
V. 

R. 

VI 
V.l 


R. 
R. 
V. 


R. 
C. 
V. 

R. 


175 


640 


280 

47 
351 

348 


492 

680 

204 
386 

203 

281 
305 

546 

780 

190 

60 

841 

200 
240 

106 

195 

137 

57 
259 

314 


985 

170 
573 


75 


30 


93 

120 

102 


115 


120 
73 


103 


1 


64 


37 


37 


1!) 


29 
37 

24 

23 
47 

121 

77 


G.  Kemp  .  .  .  . 
VV.  Baker .  .  .  . 
F.  Todd 


74 

7 

12 

96 
10 

9 


30 


326 

14 
64 


C.  M.  Gibson . 

J.  Collins  .  .  . 
J.  Daubuz    .  . 

J.  L.  Lugger  . 


J.  Pomery   .  . 

T.  J.  Trevenen 

F.  Cole  .... 
S.  Symonds .  . 


1840 


J.  Kempe  .  .  . 

W.  Baker  .  .  . 
D.  Jenkins  .  . 

C.  W.  Carlyon 

G.  Cornish  .  . 

0.  J.  Tancock 

D.  Jackson 
H.  Ware    . 
VV.  Curgenven 
N.  Kendall  . 

J.  Bower  .  . 

R.  G.  Grylls 

W.  W.  Harvey 
F.  Webber 
J.  Arscott . 


W.  Hocker 


C.  T.  Kempe  . 

G.  L.  Gower  . 
R.  Lampen  .  . 


1839 


1839 

1839 
1829 

1831 


1831 

1836 

1833 
1819 

1818 

180 
1824 

1804 

1828 

1840 
1832 
1803 
1815 

1816 

1813 

1838 
1833 

1824 

1802 

1806 

1818 
1828 


C.S.Woolcock) 
J.  G.  Childs    / 


J.  Mickleburgh 


H.  Todd  . 
E.  Tippet 


H.  T.  Rodd 


/W.D.Longlands 
(W.  Oliver.  .  , 


E.  Luscombe 


H.  B.  Bullocke 
E.  Carlyon    .  . 

C.  Hocker .  .  . 

C.  Rawlings .  . 
W.  Curgenven 


Bp.  of  Exeter  -j 
S.  T.  Spry,  Esq. 
The  Ckown    -J 

The  Crown    1 

Principal  Inhab. 
C.  H.T.Hawkins 

J.  A.  Gordon. 


f  E.'  W  W.  \ 

\  Pendarves  J 

T.  Carlyon  . 

Bishop  of  Exeter 
C  Bedford  .  .  . 


265 
147 


0  0 

1  7 


118     0  0 

502     0  0 
537   10  0 

120     0  0 


437 
330 


3  4 
0  0 


450     0  0 


260 

500 

10 

640 


0  0 

0  0 

0  0 

0  0 


J.  T.  Treffry 

Bishop  of  Exeter 
Bishop  of  Exeter 

J.  Hawkins .  .  . 

|  Bp.  of  Exet.  | 

Vic.  of  Kenwyn 
Vic.  of  Kenwyn 
H.  Ware   . 
Lord  Falmouth . 
N.  Kendall  .  . 
/Lord  Mount) 
\  Edgcumbe  ) 
(    Sir  J.  C. 
\  Rashleigh 
L.Mt.  Edgcumbe 
Parishioners   .  . 
L.Mt.Edgcumbe 
Representatives 
ofSirC. Hawkins, 
J.H.Tremaine,& 
Rev.  H.  Hoblyn. 
(  Lord  and 
I  Lady  Gren- 
1    ville  .  .  . 
Lord  Falmouth. 
Bishop  of  Exeter 


350     0  0 

163   18   1 
168     0  0 


535     0  0 
524   11  2 


700 
153 


0  0 
0  0 


40     0  0 


225 
230 


0  0 
0  0 


30  14  0 

275  0  0 

150     0  0 

118    10  0 


CORNWALL. 


237 


PENWITH— continued. 


ARCHDEACONRY  OF  CORNWALL. 


TITHE  OWNERS. 


D.  &  C.  of  Exeter    \ 

Vicar / 

Dean  of  Burian  .  .  .  . 

G.  John  ......   \ 

Vicar J 


Glebe. 


A.     R. 


Tax. 

et  Valor. 

1291 

01  1294. 

£ 

s. 

d. 

1 

10 

0 

6 

13 

0 

2 

10 

6 

0 

0 

not  named. 

5 

13 

4 

4 

0 

0 

Tax.  et  Valor. 
Henry  VIII. 


£     S.     d. 

17    11      3 

w.Gwithian 
45  10     8 
19   11     0 

8     0     0 


5     5     0 


Statute 
Acres. 


1600 

2880 
3770 
4240 

2350 

2880 

4640 


Popula 
tion, 
1831. 


1033 

3053 

8191 

1069 

689 
737 

811 


POST  TOWNS. 


Marazion 

Redruth  . 

Redruth  . 

Penzance 

Penzance 
Heyle    . 

St.  Ives 


PARISHES. 


/  Perran  Uthno,    or 
\   Udnou. 

Phillack,  w.  Gwithian. 

Redruth,  (St.  Uny.) 

Sancreed. 

Sennen,  see  St.  Burian. 
Towednack,  see  Lelant. 

Zennar. 


OF  POWDER. 


Earl  of  Falmouth 
Vicar 


Vicar  &  Impropriator 

EI.  P.Andrew,  &  others 

Vicar 

Principal  Inhabitants . 
Rector 


J.  A.  Gordon 


Rector 

Rector 

(  Sir  J.  Sawle 
(E.  Carlyon  , 

Rector 

Earl  of  Falmouth 

Rector 

Impropriator 
Vicar    .... 


::} 


:} 


Earl  of  Falmouth  . 
Vicar 


Rector 

Rector 

Ld.  Mount  Edgcumbe 
/  Vic.endowed  with ) 
1  Rectorial  Tithes  f 

Sir  J.  C.  Rashleigh  \ 

Vicar •  .    J 

Rector 

D.&C.ofCh.Ch.  Oxf. 

Duke  of  Buckingham 


Rector 


Rector /**■ 

Rector 

Bp.of  Exeter,  &  others, 


80 
81 


0  0 


1  4 


1  34 


i-2 


10  3  0 


35  0  0 


33  0  30 


6  0  0 

10  13  4^| 
not  named,  j 

6  0  0 

not  named. 

4  13  6 

5  6  8 

not  named. 

6  0  0 

8  0  0 

3  6  8 

5  0  0 

4  0  0 

not  named. 

6  13  4 

4  6  8 

2  19  0(1447) 
8  6  8 


6  0  0 

1  0  0 
9  11  8 

not  named. 

not  named. 

2  18  4 

not  named. 
2  0  0 


2  0  0 


not  named. 

2  0  0 
12  0  0 


21  0  0 


I 


9  0  0 

13  6  8 

10  4  0 

{seeCar-  ) 
hayes.  J 
22  13  4 

21  0  0 

11  0  0 


10  0  0 

15  6  0^ 

20  0  0 

37  0  0 

I  16  0  0 


18  0  0 

6  0  0 

13  6  8 

2  13  4 

10  0  0 

16  0  0 

6  0  0 

10  0  0 


27  10  6^ 

14  0  0 

9  14  0* 

13  6  8 


3610 

710 

11,540 

2,000 

3520 

1480 
2710 

2410 

3370 
3780 

6100 

2350 
2310 

1900 

2470 
4660 

2550 

(7600 
(7370 


5730 
1320 
6670 

120 

5400 

190 

2170 
1250 


2380 


820 

1240 
7400 


637 
144 

8758 
2155 

2885 

170 

258 

155 

721 
586 

1699 

1210 
432 

1767 

766 
1205 

1558 

8492 
3896 


761 
96 

1687 

1548 

1288 

2925 

411 

2169 


1306 


197 

179 
1350 


Truro  .  .  . 
St.  Mawes  . 

St.  Austle  . 

Truro  .  .  . 

Tregony  .  . 
Grampound 

Tregony  .  . 

Tregony  .  . 
Truro    .  .  . 

St.  Austle  . 

Truro  .  .  . 
Tregony  .  . 

Fowey  .  .  . 

Tregony  .  . 
Tregony  .  . 

St.  Mawes  . 

|  Truro  .  . 

Truro   .  .  . 

Truro  .  .  . 
Truro  .  .  . 
Tregony.  . 
Lostwithiel 

Lostwithiel 

Lostwithiel 

Truro  .  .  . 
Truro  .  .  . 
Mevagissy  . 

St.  Austle  . 

Tregony  .  . 

Tregony .  . 
Truro    .  .  . 


Allen,  St. 

f  Anthony,St.,  in  Rose 

\   land. 

/Austle,  St.,  w. 

\   St.  Blazey. 

/  Blazey,  and  Pentuan, 

\  see  St.  Austle. 

Clements,  St.  (Truro). 

Cornelly. 

Creed,  w.  Grampound. 

/Cuby,  w.  St.  James, 

\    Tregony. 

/  Denis,  St.,  see  St.  Mi 

\   chael  Carhayes. 
Erme,  St.  Rectory. 

Ewe,  St. 

Feock. 
fFilley,  or  Philleigh, 
\  (Eglosros.) 

Fowey. 

Gerrans. 
Gorran. 

/Just,    St.,    Roseland, 

\   w.  St.  Mawes. 

f  Kenwyn,  (Truro,)  w. 

\       Kea. 

St.  John's  Chapel. 
Chacewater  Chapel. 
Ladock. 
Lamorran. 
Lanlivery. 

Lostwithiel. 

Luxulian. 

Mary,  St.  (Truro.) 

Merther. 

Mevagissy. 

Mewan,  St. 

(  Michael  Carhayes,  St. 
<    St.    Stephens,     and 

{    St.  Denis. 
Michael  Penkivel,  St. 
Probus. 


238 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


DIOCESE  OF  EXETER. 


DEANERY  OF 


PARISHES. 


Roche 

Kuan  Lanyliorne    .  .  , 

Samson,  or  Golant.  .  . 

Stephens,  St.  in  Bran-  \ 
nel,  see  St.  Michael  > 
Carhayes ) 

Tywardreth 

Veryan  


Descrip 

tion. 


R. 

R. 
C. 

R.&V. 

V. 
V. 


Gross 
Ann. 
Val. 
183-1. 


£< 

480 

465 
53 


135 
420 


Curates' 
Stipends. 


£ 


53 


sE 


£ 
67 
51 


135 

81 


INCUMBENTS. 


T.  Pearce  .  . 

R.  Budd.  .  . 
H.  Hinxman 


C.  Lyne .  .  . 
S.  P.  J.  Trist 


1841 

1810 
1829 


1841 
1829 


CURATES'  NAMES. 


J.  S.  Avery 


PATRONS. 


f  Trustees  of  \ 

(  J.  Thornton/ 

C.C.Coll.  Oxford 

W.  Rashleigh .  . 


W  Rashleigh . 
D.&C.  Exeter  -I 


Tithe 

Coir 

- 

mutations 

£ 

s. 

/. 

440 

0 

0 

205 

0 

0 

780 

0 

0 

400 

0 

0 

760 

13 

6 

361 

11 

6 
1 

DEANERY 


Agnes,  St.  see  Perran-  \ 
zabulo / 

Breock,  St 

Colan 

Columb,  St.,  Major  . 

Columb,  St.,  Minor  . 

Crantock 

Cubert,  or  Cuthbert . 

Enoder,  St 

Ervan,  St 

Evall 

Issey,  St 

Lanivet 

Mawgan  in  Pydar  .  . 

Merrin,  St 

Newlyn 

Padstow 

Perranzabulo,  w.  \ 
St.  Agnes    .  .  .  .    / 

Petherick,  Little,  or\ 
Petroc  Minor    .  .   J 

Wenn,  St 

YVithiel 


R. 

V. 
R. 
D. 
C. 

V. 
V. 
R. 
V. 
V. 
R. 
R. 
V. 
V. 

V. 

V. 

R. 
V. 
R. 


1005 
163 

1507 

120 

81 

185 
298 
466 
179 
273 
722 
685 
277 
380 

259 

422 

238 

341 


145 


45 

106 

50 

84 

75 
150 

60 

150 

76 


146 

211 
3 
3 

5 
20 
61 
17 
27 
55 
100 
20 

57 

3 

35 

17 


W.  Molesworth 
J.  Creser  .  .  .  . 
S.  E.  Walker  .  . 

C.  A.  N.  Thomas 
N.  F.  Chudleigh 

T.  Stabback    . 
S.  M.  Walker . 
W.  Molesworth 
W.  Kitson 
W.  Gillbee 
W.  Phillipps 
P.  Carlyon 
J.  Baily  .  . 
E.  Dix 

R.  Tyacke 

J.  Buller   . 

D.  Stephens  . 
R.  P.  Gilbert  . 
V.  F.  Vyvyan 


1816 


1841 
1839 
1839 

1810 
1828 
1817 
1803 
1830 
1817 
1806 
1792 
1839 

1790 

1818 

1834 
1810 
1825 


JR.  H.  Whiteway 
(H.  Wybrow.  .  . 

C.  A.  Hocken  .  .  . 

W.  Polwhele   .  .  . 
W.  B.  Bennet .  .  . 

J.  H.  Hext 

J.  Carlyon 

(  —  Burton    .  .  \ 
(E.M.Harmlton/ 

J.  Southcomb  .  .  . 


f     Sir  W.     ) 

( Molesworth  / 

Bishop  of  Exeter 

E.  Walker  .  . 

Sir  J.  B.  Buller 

J.  W.  Buller  .  . 

Rev.T.  Stabback 

Bishop  of  Exeter 
/     Sir  W.      \ 
\  Molesworth  / 

Bishop  of  Exeter 

D.  &  C.  Exeter  | 
The  Incumbent 
H.  Williams    .  . 
Bishop  of  Exeter 
Bp.  of  Exeter  -j 

Rev.  C.  P.  Brune 

D.&C.  of  Exeter 

f     Sir  W.     \ 

( Molesworth  j 

W.  Rashleigh    . 

Sir  R.R.  Vyvyan 


1500     0  0 

725     0  0 

380     0  0 

(322  0  0 
(178  0  0 
463     0  0 


459 

0  o 

223 

1   2 

663 

2   7 

605 

0  0 

470 

0  0 

755 

0  0 

(440 

0  0 

(245 

0  0 

DEANERY 


Advent,  see  Lanteglos  . 

Altarnon 

Boyton 

Cleather,  St.,  or  Clether 

Davidstow 

Egloskerry,  w.  \ 

Tremayne  .  .  .  .   / 

Gennis,  St ,  or  Genys 
Jacobstow 


R. 

V. 

363 

105 

C. 

136 

•  • 

V. 

168 

80 

V. 

205 

77 

C. 

118 

90 

V. 

147 

120 

R. 

276 

•  • 

43  R.  H.Tripp.  .  . 
13E.  Rudall 

H.  J.  Morshead 


13  J.  Glanville.  . 


J.  Serjeant   .  . 
J.  A.  II.  Laffer 


33.1.  Glanville. 


1841 
1826 

1837 

1797 
1826 
1834 
1832 


H.  Trimmer . 

J.  Serjeant.  . 

J.  Gillard  .  . 
II.  A.  Simcoe 


D.&C.  of  Exeter 
Rev.  J.  Prideaux 

J.  Carpenter, 
and 

T.  J.  Phillips 

The  Crown    < 

—  Owen   .  .  .  . 

/  Earl  of  \ 
( St.Germans  / 
j  Earl  of  \ 
1  St.Germans/ 


f  80     0  0 

(.90  0  0 
240  0  0 
166     0  O 

155   16  0 

1220  0  0 
(160  0  0 

310     0  0 


CORNWALL. 


239 


POWDER-  continued. 


ARCHDEACONRY  OF  CORNWALL. 


TITHE  OWNERS. 


Rector 


Impropriator 

Rector  and  Vicar  .  .  . 

Impropriator    .... 

Kector \ 

D.  &  C.  of  Exeter    / 


Glebe. 


A.     R.     P. 

34     3  41 


Tax.  et  Valor. 
1291  or  1294. 


£   s.  d. 

6     6  8 

5     6  8 
not  named. 

8     6  8 

5     6  8 

10     0  0 


Tax.  et  Valor. 
Henry  VIII. 


£     S.     d. 

20     0     0 

12     0     0 
no  return. 

(  A-eeCar-  ) 
\  hayes.  / 

9     6     8 

19     0     0 


Statute 

Acres. 


Popula- 
tion, 
1831. 


4940 

2120 
1180 

9230 

2990 
5430 


1630 

424 
314 

2477 

2228 
1525 


POST  TOWNS. 


St.  Austle  . 

Tregony  .  , 
Lostwithiel 

Tregony  .  , 

Fowey  .  . 
Tregony  . 


PARISHES. 


Roche. 

Buan  Lanyhorne. 
Samson,  or  Golant. 

I  Stephens,  St.  in  Bran- 
<    nel,  see  St.  Michael 

(_  Carhayes. 
Tywardreth. 

Veryan. 


OF  PYDAR. 


Vicar  &  SirR.Vy  vyan 

Rector 

Sir  J.  B.  Buller  . 

Impropriator    .  . 

Impropriator   .  . 

Vicar 

Impropriator   .  . 


D.  and  C.  of  Exeter   . 
I)  and  C.  of  Exeter) 

Vicar J 

Rector , 


Vicar    .... 
Chan.ofSt.Peter's,Ext. 
Impropriator 
Vicar    .... 

IX  and  C.  of  Exeter 


:} 


30 


50 


not  named. 

4     0     0 

17    13     4 

not  named. 

19     6     8 

Vic.&9Prebs 

4  16     8 
6     6     8 

5  0     0 

6  13     4 

4  6     8 

8  0     0 
/    6  13     4\ 
\16     8/ 

not  named. 

9  0     0 

5  6     8 
not  named. 

1   10     0 

6  13     4 
4     0     0 


w.  Perran 

8660 

6442 

41  10 

6 

7860 

1450 

6  14 

8 

1790 

261 

53  6 

8 

11,680 

2796 

no  return. 

5520 

1409 

in  1294 
19  3 

4) 

2440 

458 

8  6 

8 

2320 

487 

26  13 

4 

4050 

1125 

19  6 

8 

3110 

453 

7  13 

4 

2970 

354 

9  0 

0 

4440 

720 

24  0 

0 

5540 

922 

26  13 

4 

5130 

745 

15  16 

8 

3740 

576 

16  13 

4 

8340 

1218 

11  3 

0 

3270 

1822 

24  9 

0 

10,660 

2793 

6  6 

8 

1720 

224 

16  6 

8 

5600 

649 

10  0 

0 

2740 

406 

Truro 


Wadebridge  .... 
St.  Columb  .  .  .  . 
St.  Columb,  Major 
St.  Columb,  Minor 
St.  Michael 

St.  Michael 
St.  Columb 
Padstow  .  . 
St.  Columb 
Padstow 
Bodmin 
St.  Columb 
Padstow 
Truro    . 


Padstow 
St.  Michael 


Padstow  .  . 
St.  Columb 
Bodmin   .  . 


/  Agnes,  St.,  see  Perran 
\   zabulo. 

Breock,  St. 

Colan. 

Columb,  St.,  Major. 

Columb,  St.,  Minor. 

Crantock. 

Cubert,  or  Cuthbert. 

Enoder,  St. 

Ervan,  St. 

Evall. 

Issey,  St. 

Lanivet. 

Mawgan  in  Pydar. 

Merrill,  St. 

Newlyn. 

Padstow. 

/Perranzabulo,  w. 
\    St.  Agnes. 
/Petherick,   Little,  or 
\   Petroc  Minor. 
Wenn,  St. 

Withiel. 


OF  TRIGG  MAJOR. 


D.  and  C.  of  Exeter 
H.  Thompson  .  .  .  . 
Cur.  of  St.  Thomas, 
near  Launceston, 

Vicar 

Vicar 

Impropriators  .  .  . 

Impropriators  .  .  .  , 


Impropriator   .  .  .    ) 
Vicar ) 

Rector 


18     0     0 


20     0     0 


8  0  0 

1  10  0 

6  0  0 

7  5  0 

2  0  0 
1  0  0 
6  0  0 


see  Lantegl. 

4020 

244 

18  14  10 

13,840 

1069 

no  return. 

4460 

452 

6  11  OJ 

3540 

2885 

8  0  0 

6260 

389 

no  return. 

3060 

537 

8  0  0 

5580 

761 

19  0  0 

4890 

638 

Camelford  .  . 
Launceston  . 
Launceston   . 

Launceston   . 

Camelford  .  . 
Launceston  . 
Launceston  . 
Stratton  .  .  . 


Advent,  see  Lanteglos. 

Altarnon. 

Boyton. 

Cleather,  St. 

Davidstow. 

f  Egloskerry,  to. 
\   Tremayne. 

Gennis,  St.,  or  Genys. 
Jacobstow. 


240  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 

DIOCESE  OF  EXETER, 


DEANERY  OF 


PARISHES. 


Juliot,  or  St.  Jilt 


Kilkhampton . 
Laneast .  .  .  . 
Launcells .  .  . 


Mary,  St.  (Launceston) 
Marham  Church .  .  .  . 
Moorwinstow 


Descrip- 
tion. 


Petherwin,  South,  w. ' 
Trewen 


Poughill 


Poundstock 

Steplien,  St.  (Laun-\ 
ceston) J 

Stratton,  w.  \ 

Bude  Chapel .  .  .   J 

Tamerton,  North   .  .  . 

Thomas,  St 

Tremayne,or  Tremean, 

see  Egloskerry  .  .  .  . 
Trenegloss,  w.  \ 

Warbstow   .  .  .  .   / 

Tresmere 

Trewen,    see    South  \ 

Petherwin  .  .  .  .  / 
Warbstow,  see  Trene  •  \ 

gloss J 

Week,  St.  Mary  .  .  .  , 
Whitstone 


C. 

R, 

C.1 
V. 

c: 

R. 

v. 
v. 

v. 

v. 
c. 

V. 

c. 

c. 

|c. 

V. 

c. 

V. 


R. 
R. 


Gross 
Ann 
Val. 
1831. 


£ 
60 

609 

70 

201 

117 
412 
323 

625 

116 

185 

100 

162 

250 
103 

212 
125 


465 
247 


Curates' 
Stipends 


£ 
32 

70 
120 


100 

75 

90 
83 


76 


fa  >. 
as 


122 

15 

20 

1 
62 

47 

276 


11 

20 

33 

20 
20 

25 

7 


77 
16 


INCUMBENTS. 


A.  Laffer 


J.  Davis 

W.  Cowland  .  . 

R.  H.  K.  Buck  . 

G.  B.  Gibbons  . 
J.  Kingdon  .  .  . 
R.  S.  Hawker .  . 

R.  S.  Stevens  .  . 

John  Davis  .  .  . 

P.  D.  Dayman  . 

C.  H.  Lethbridge 

J.  S.  Hawker .  . 

C.  P.  Coffin  .  .  . 
J.  H.  Kendall.  . 

J.  H.  Mason  .  . 
W.  A.  Morgan  . 


Walter  Gee .  . 
John  Kingdon 


1810 

1826 

1839 

1837 
1818 
1834 

1824 

1810 

1841 

1818 

1833 

1811 
1841 

1804 
1821 


1821 
1793 


J.  Serjeant. 


CURATES'  NAMES. 


R.  W.  Riley 


J.  Heathcote 


J.  French 


W.  Kingdon . 


PATRONS. 


Sir  W.  Moles- 
worth,    and 
W.  Rawle  . 

Lord  Carteret  - 

J,K.  Lethbridge, 
and  another  .  . 

L.  W.  Buck  .    | 

f  Corporat.  of) 

(Launceston  J 

J.  Kingdon  .  .  . 

Bp.  of  Exeter  -j 

/  University  1 
\   of  Oxford  / 

The  Crown 


Tithe  Com- 
mutations. 


£    s.  d. 
165     0  0 


J.  Dayman  .    ■? 

/  Feoffees  &  \ 
\  Inhabitants  ) 


The  Crown 


{ 

JR.  P.  Coffin,  \ 
\  and  others  / 
The  Inhabitants. 


50 

0  0 

607 

0  0 

►  113 

7  8 

280 

0  0 

220 

0  0 

390 

0  0 

390 

0  0 

365 

0  0 

see  Lezant. 


65 

124 
370 
200 

356 

240 
200 


5  6 

5  0 

0  0 

0  0 

0  0 

0  0 

0  0 


The  Crown 
The  Crown 


I 


f  SidneySuss.  \ 
\Coll.  Camb.j 
John  Kingdon 


84    14 

63   15  t) 

90     0  (i 

130     0  0 


169  4  0 
135  0  0 


450 
255 


0  0 

o  o 


DEANERY  OF 


Blisland 


Bodmin . 


Breward,  St. 
Eglosheyle  . 


Endellion 

Prebd.  of  Endellion 
Bodmin-on-Kings  .  . 

Trelaverock 

Marnays 

Forrabury 

Ilelland 


Kew,  St.  or  Lanow   .  , 

Lanhydrock    

Lanteglos  by  Camel- ) 
ford,  w.  Advent   .  / 
Lesnewth 


R. 

V. 

V. 
V. 
R. 


R. 
R. 


C. 
R. 
R. 


625 
283 

389 

223 

63 
115 


70 
215 

467 


528 
190 


63 


103 


120 


88 
80 


64 


62 
27 


113 
19 

66 


54 


F.  W.  Pye  . 

J.  Wallis,  jun.   . 

T.  J.  Landon. 

T.  S.  Carlyon. 

W.  Hocken .  . 

J.  Boyse  .  .  . 
J.  Kempe  .  .  . 
N.  Kendall  .  . 
R.  Winslow  . 
F.  J.  Hext   .  . 

J.  S.  Scobell  . 


1834 

1817 

1815 

1833 

1833 

1797 
1818 


N.Kendall  .  . 
C.  Luxmore  . 
C.  Worsley .  . 


1800 
1817 

1837 


1794 
1814 


I 


G.  T.  Bull    . 


C.  Woolcombe 
J.  Glencross    . 


F.W.  Pye    . 

Lady  Basset 

D.&C.  of  Exeter 
Bp.ofFxeter.  ' 
The  Crown 


I 


W.  Borlase 
W.  P.  Bray 


Mr.  Basset  .  .  . 
Mr.  Gray  .  .  .  . 
Hon.  A.  M.  Agar 
T.  J.  Philipps  . 
W.  Morshead.  . 


N.  Every    . 

Hon.  Mrs.  Agar 
The  Crown 
E.  J.  Glynn 


543  0  0 

311  15  10 

50  O  0 

392  17  10 

399  15  0 

500  0  0 

225  0  0 

128  0  0 

130  O  0 

130  0  0 

60  0  0 

212  10  0 

738  O  0 

520  3  9 

150  0  0 


I 


CORNWALL. 


241 


TRIGG  MAJOR— continued. 


ARCHDEACONRY  OF  CORNWALL. 


TITHE  OWNERS. 


t  Sir  W.  Moles- 
•l      worth,  and 

{  W.  Rawle  . 
Impropriator  .  . 
Rector 


Glebe. 


Impropriators  .... 

L.  W.  Buck  ....   | 

Vicar / 

/         Duke  of         \ 
(  Northumberland  J 


Impropriator    •  •  •   \ 
Vicar / 

University  of  Oxford . 

Propriet.  of  Estates  ^| 
in  the  Parish    .  .    V 

Vicar J 

Impropriators  . 
Vicar 


Impropriators  . 

Impropriators  . 
Vicar 


:} 


:} 


A.     R.     P. 


100  0     0 


Tax.  et  Valor. 
12ai  or  12U4. 


38     0 
70     0 


25     0     0 


2      0     0 


Impropriators 

} 


Impropriator    .  . 

Vicar 

Impropriators  .  . 


Impropriator    .  . 
Vicar 


: 


Rector 
Rector 


20     0     (I 


84     0 
37     0 


£   s.  d. 

13     0  0 

13   14  4 

2     0  0 

7   15  0 

6   13  4 

13     6  8 

6     0  0 

2   13  4 


Tax.  et  Valor 
.  eury  VIII. 


£     s.     d. 
no  return. 

26   13   10^ 

10  10     8 

not  valued. 
15  11  0 
10     8     6 

(20  Ed.  I. 

\6      0     0 

6   12     6 


Statute 
Acres. 


8   0  0 

10 

7  13  4 


0  0  | 


U 


6  8 


2  6  8^ 
1  10  0 
not  named. 

7  0  0 

1  6  8 

not  named. 

not  named. 

5  6  8 
4  6  8 


20  Ed.  I. 

10  0  0 

20  Ed.  I. 

10  11  6.1 
2  6  8 
in  1294 
1  10  0 


/9  19  6/ 
\  Ed.  I.  | 
1  6  8 
(see  Pe- 
\  therwin 
/  see  Tre- 
\  negloss 

17  0  0 

14  11  0-J 


2600 

8120 

2600 

6340 

2180 
2630 
7780 

|  1940 

2070 

4420 

|  3910 

J-  2380 

|  5400 
2120 


3130 

1490 

970 

4180 

5830 
4080 


Popula- 
tion. 
1831, 


271 

1126 

279 

843 

2231 

659 

1102 

988 

360 

727 
1084 
1613 

517 

626 
118 

183 
171 
213 

481 

769 
481 


POST  TOWNS. 


Camelford  . 

Stratton  .  . 

Launceston 

Stratton   .  . 

Launceston 
Stratton  .  . 
Stratton  .  . 

Launceston 
Stratton   .  . 

Stratton  .  . 

Launceston 

Stratton  .  . 

Launceston 
Launceston 
Launceston 

Camelford  . 
Launceston 
Launceston 

Camelford  . 

Stratton  .  . 
Stratton   .  . 


PARISHES. 


Juliot,  or  St.  Jilt. 

Kilkhampton. 

Laneast. 

Launcells. 

Mary,  St.  (Launceston) 
Marliain  Church. 
Moorwinstow. 

/Petherwin,  South,  w. 
\    Trewen. 

Poughill. 

Poundstock. 

/Stephen,  St.  (Laun- 
\   ceston.) 
/  Stratton,  w. 
\  Bude  Chapel. 

Tamerton,  North. 

Thomas,  St. 
fTremayne.    or   Tre- 
\  meaiveeEgliskerry 
/  Trenej^loss,  w. 
\  Warbstow. 
Tresmere. 

Trewen,    see    South 
Petherwin. 
Warbstow,  see  Trene 
gloss. 

Week  St.  Mary. 
Whitstone. 


TRIGG  MINOR. 


Rector 

—    Wallis,     and' 
Landowners .  . 
i\  Iayor&  Corporatrs. 
Vicar 


Vicar,  partly  end  wd. "] 
/To  Sub-Dean  of1 
t      Exeter J 

Rector 


Prebendary 

Prebendary 

Prebendary 

Rector 

Rector 

/Vicar  endow,  with  "\ 
(  part  of  Gt.  Tithes  I 
/Rest  to  Sir  Wm.  t 
\     Molesworth  .  . ) 

Impropriator 


29     2     3 

18     3     0 

110     0 

15     0     0 

14     0     0 

9     0   15 


6      0     0 

6  3      4 

7  0     0 


\  WithPrb 
i  24     4 

1  0     0 

2  0     0 


bo} 


8   13     4 


4     6     8 


13   10  0 
No  retrn.  -j 

8  0  0 
16     0  0 

10     0  0 

4   12  8 

9  13  4 

19    10  0 

34   11  2 

8     0  0 


6800 

T.2840\ 
P.  3470/ 

9180 

6170 


3530 

430 
2770 

7530 

1680 
3750 
1940 


644 

3732 

627 
1335 

1218 


Bodmin 


Bodmin 


Blisland. 


Bodmin Bodmin 


Wadebridge  .  . 


Wadebridge  , 


358    Boscastle 
285    Bodmin    . 


1316 


Wade"bridge  . 


239    Bodmin    . 

1359    Camelford 

127    Camelford 


I 


Breward,  St. 

Eglosheyle. 

Endellion. 
Prebs.  of  Endellion  : 

Bodmin-on- Kings. 

Trelaverock. 

Marnays. 
Forrabury. 
Helland. 

Kew,  St.,  or  Lanow. 

Lanhydrock. 
/Lanteglos  by  Camel- 
\      ford,  it\  Advent. 

Lesnewth. 


I   I 


242 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


DIOCESE  OF  EXETER. 


DEANERY  OF 


PARISHES. 


Mabjn,  St. . 

Michaelstow 


Minster. 


I 


Minver,  St.  .  .  . 
w.  Portliilly,  C.    .  , 
§■  St.  Enoder  .  .  .) 


Otterham 

Teath,  St 

Temple* 

Tintagel,  alias  Bossirn 
Trevalga 


Tudy,  St. 


Descrip- 
tion. 


R 
R. 

R. 


V. 


R. 

V. 

C. 
V. 
R. 

R. 


Grc^ 

Ann 

Val. 

iij.il 


£ 

730 
276 

230 


344 


172 

260 

23 

255 

146 

703 


Curates' 
Stipend. 


£ 
100 


f  See  ) 
'Fori-a-' 
I  bury. 


150 


■a  a 


£ 
18 
6 


INCUMBENTS. 


11 

34 

2 
37 


G  L.  Gower 
E.  Spettigue 

R.  Winslow 


G.  Treweeke  . 

S.  Chilcot .  .  . 

T.  Amory  .  . 
I).  Clements  . 
R.  S  Bree  .  . 
J.  T.  Symons 

C.  Hodgson.  . 


re  3 


CURATES'  NAMES. 


1818  N.  Kendall,  jun. 
1818  


1800 

1817 

1810 
1838 

1835 
1831 

1817 


J.  Ellis 


C.  Woolcombe 


PATRONS. 


Tithe  Com- 
mutations. 


|  £    s.   d. 

Lord  Falmouth  .780     0     0 
The  Crown  . 


T.  J.  Philipps  . 

W.  Sandys  .    j 

(Represts.  of) 
tw.Chilcot./ 
Bishop  of  Exeter 
Sir  B.  P  Wrey  . 
D.  &  C.Windsor 
D.&Cof  Exeter 
/D.  &C.Ch.\ 
\Ch.  Oxf..  ./ 


255     0     0 

1000     0  0 
356     5  0 


693     1      61 


*  There  is  no  church  or  service  in  this  parish,  and  only  thirty-seven  inhabitants. 


DEANERY 


Broadoak,see  Boconnoj 

Boconnoc    

Cardinham 

Cleer,  St.,  or  St.  Clare  . 

Duloe | 

Keyne,  St 

Lunreath 

Lansallos 

Lanteglos,  by  Fowey  . 

Liskeard 

Martin,  St ,  by  Looe 

Morval 

Neot,  St 

Pelynt 

Pinnock,  St 

Talland 

Veep,  St 

Warleggon 

Winnow,  St \ 

w.  Knighton    .  .   J 


B.1 
R./ 

R. 

416 
561 

•  • 

V. 

281 

58 

V. 
S  R. 
R 
R. 
R. 

479 

50 

211 

584 
465 

50 

V. 

232 

80 

V. 

317 

150 

V. 

524 

•  • 

V. 
V. 

250 
410 

85 

V. 
R. 

303 
164 

V. 

245 

V. 

243 

R. 

146 

75 

V. 

207 

38  A.  Tatham 

37  T.  Grylls  . 

36  J.  Jope  .  . 

R  Scott.  . 
W.  Greswell 

13  T.  Leah 
80  R  Buller 
70,  \V.  Rawlings 

36  W.  Hocker 

14  J.  F.  Todd 

43  W.  Farwell 
12  S.  Puddicombe 
49  H.  Grylls  .  .  . 


63 


38 


J.  B.  Kitson   .  . 


J.  Rawlings 


N.  Kendal. 


28  J  B.  Kitson 
21  D.  Clements 
10  P.  Frye  .  .  . 


E.  Polwhele , 


1832 

1814 

1776 

1840! 
1830 
1833 
1829 
1822 

1806  J 

1821 


1830 
1803 
1820 

1841 

1835 

1806 

1323 
1833 
1835 


J.  G.  Harrison 


J.  Dunn 


Lrd  Grenville  -j 
E.  J.  Glynn  .  . 
The  Crown     '. 

Balliol  Coll.Oxf. 

Lieut.  Cory,  r.n. 
I.  Buller  .  .  .  . 
H.  P.  Rawlings . 

Lrd  Grenville  -J 

J.  F.  Todd  .  .  . 
(Lady  S-nd-) 
wich,  &  Ld.  J- 
(  Darlington.  J 
The  Crown  .  . 
(R.  G.  Grylls, 
<  —  Glencross, 
t  and  others  .  . 
/ 


J.  W.  Buller 


(J.    Cory  ton, 
■\  J.T.Treffy,  & 
I^J.  Rawlings  . 


N.  Keudal 


D.  Howell  .  | 
G.  W.F.Gregory 
D.  &C.  Exeter -f 


195  0  0 

185  0  0 

500  0  O 

330  0  0 

330  0  0 


140  0  0 

500  0  0 

315  0  0 

225  0  0 


415  0  0 


400  0  0 
235  0  0 


314  14  0 

136  0  0 

320  0  0 

231  0  0 

170  0  0 

416  0  0 

297  0  0 


PARISHES  WITHIN  THE  DEVONSHIRE  LIMIT,  BUT  UNDER  THE 


Giles,  St.,  in  the  Heath 

Pettier  win,  North  .  .  . 
Werrington 


C. 

V. 
D. 


108 

135 

257 


70 

83 


12 


28 


Edward  Rudall . 

J.  Kingdon,  jun. 
J.  Bradden  .  .  . 


1830 

1833 

1788 


T.  B.  Melhuish 


Lords  Lothian  ^ 

&Valletort,& 

Lady  SuffieldJ 

Duke  of  Bedford 

Earl  of  Buck-  { 

inprhamshire    I 


123  14     0 
0  14     0 


290     0     0 


CORNWALL. 


243 


TRIGG  MINOR—  continued. 


ARCHDEACONRY  OF  CORNWALL. 


TITHE  OWNERS. 


Rector 


Glebe. 


T.ix.  et  Value 
12!)  1  or  1294 


Rector 


Impropriator 
Vicar   .... 


E.  P.  Lyon 
Lord  Wharncliffe 


Rector 


A.      R.     P 


40     0     0 


21  Imp. 
41  Vicar, 


£  s.  d. 

8  0  0 

3  0  0 

5  0  0 


0     0 


2     0     0 

not  named. 
0  10  0 
8  0  0 
2     0     0 

5     0     0 


Tax.  et  Val   r 
Henry  VIII. 


£  s.  d. 

36  0  0 

10  13  8 

22  17  10 


13  10   1 


6  14  0 

12  0  0 
no  return. 
8  11  2!j 

7  6  0 

31  0  0 


Statute 
Acres. 


3570 
1780 

3140 


6890 


3300 

5900 

780 

3960 

1130 

3590 


Popula- 
tion, 
1831. 


795 
215 

497 


1110 


227 

1280 

29 

1006 

192 

658 


POST  TOWNS. 


Wadebridge 
Camelford  .  , 


PARISHES. 


jMabyn,  St. 
Michaelstow. 


Boscastle 

Padstow . 

Camelford 

Camelford 
Bodmin    . 

Bossiny    . 
Bossiny    . 

Bodmin    . 


Minster. 

(Minver,  St. 

<^       w.  Porthilly,  C. 

(     8f  St.  Euoder. 

Otterham., 

Teatb,  St. 

Temple. 

Tintagel,  alias  Bossiny 

Trevalga. 

Tudv,  St. 


OF  WEST. 


>  Rector 

Rector 

Vicar 1 

Impropriator   .  .  .    / 

Vicar 

Rector 


Rector  .  .  .  . 
Impropriator 
Vicar  .  .  .  . 
J.  Harris    .  . 


J.  Buller 


Impropriator 
Vicar    .... 


J.  Graves ) 

Vicar / 

Impropriator   .  .  .    \ 

Vicar J 

Rector , 

D.  &  C.  of  Exeter    ) 
Vicar I 


83   1  361  0   13     4 

197  0     o]  6   13     4 

2  0     0  not  named. 

...  734 


25  0     0 


8  0     0 


108  0     0 


50  0     0 


18  0     0 
9   0     0 


1      0  0 

6     6  8 

5     6  8 

10    13  4 

8  0  0 

9  6  8 
1    10  0 

10     0  0 

8     0  0 
not  named. 

8     0  0 

5     0  0 

1  0  0 

2  0  0 


18  13 

4 

3240 

301  1 
259  1 

(9  17 

3 

2230 

24  17 

6 

8550 

728 

19  16 

8 

9700 

982 

8  0 

iii 

5900 

928 

5  18 

6 

850 

201 

1750 

651 

18  0 

0 

2930 

884 

14  7 

6 

3280 

1208 

18  13 

10 

7740 

4042 

36  0 

0 

3060 

1320 

6  14 

9 

3730 

644 

9  11 

0 

14,540 

1424 

17  18 

6 

4460 

804 

17  13 

6 

3240 

425 

fBp.'s 

(8  0 

In. 
0 

J2690 

1434 

5  0 

6 

2940 

697 

5  17 

6 

1930 

274 

5  0 

0 

6840 

1048 

Lostwithiel 
Bodmin  .  . 
Liskeard  .  . 


j   Broadoak,*eeBoconnoc 
\   Boconnoc 
Cardinham. 

Cleer,  St.,  or  St.  Clare. 


West  Looe. 


Liskeard .  . 
West  Looe. 
West  Looe. 

Fowey  .  .  . 

Liskeard  .  . 


East  Looe 
East  Looe 
Liskeard  . 


West  Looe 
Liskeard .  . 


West  Looe 

West  Looe 
Bodmin    .  . 
Lostwithiel 


Duloe. 

Keyne,  St. 
Lanreath. 

Lansallos. 

Lanteglos,  by  Fowey. 
Liskeard. 

Martin,  St ,  by  Looe. 

Morval. 

Neot,  St. 

Pelynt. 
Pinnock,  St. 

Talland. 

Veep,  St. 

Warleggon. 
( Winnow,  St. 
(      w.  Kni"hton. 


ARCHDEACONRY  OF  CORNWALL,  AND  IN  THE  DEANERY  OF  TRIGG  MAJOR. 


The  Patrons .  .  .  .    ) 
Rector  of  Sydenham  f 

—  Hawke,  and  others 

Impropriators 


6  10     0 
1     0     0 


3280 

357 

7920 

1044 

5070 

661 

Launceston 

Launceston 
Launceston 


Giles,  St.,  in  the  HeatL 

Petberwin.  North. 
Werrington. 


244 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


PARISHES  PARTLY  IN  CORNWALL  AND  PARTLY  IN  DEVONSHIRE. 
DEANERY  OE  HOLSWORTHY,  DEVON. 


PARISHES. 

Descrip- 
tion. 

Gross 
Ann. 

Val. 

1831. 

150 

Curates' 
Stipend. 

CO 

•a  e 

CU    0) 

INCUMBENTS. 

c  o 

si 

-    - 

1806 

PATRONS. 

TITHE  OWNERS. 

Bridgerule*  (Stratton) 

V. 

T.  H.  Kingdon . 

R.  R.  Wright  .  .  . 

T.  H.  Kingdon. 

DEANERY  OF  PLYMPTON,  DEVON. 


Budeaux,  St.f 
(Plymouth) 


V. 


113 


B.W.  S.Vallack 


1832 


Vicar  of  St.  An- 
drew, Plymouth 


Impropriator. 


*  The  church  is  on  the  Devonshire  side  of  the  Tamar  ;  and  the  number  of  Acres  in  Cornwall,  out  of  the  entire  number  in  this  parish ,  is  85 1 , 
being  not  quite  one-fourth  of  the  total,  or  4010,  although  the  population  on  the  Cornish  side  of  the  river  amounts  to  276,  out  of  497;  the 
tax.  et  val.  1294,  was  SI.  3s.  Sd.     In  temp.  Henry  VIII.  \4l. 

t  This  church  is  in  Devonshire  ;  the  number  of  acres  in  Cornwall  is  not  ascertained;  report  makes  it  about  500,  with  forty  inhabitants, 
lying  opposite  Saltash,  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Tamar. 

N.B.  The  population  returns  of  1831  are  given  with  the  benefices  above,  that  being  the  year  of  the  return  of  their  gross  annual  value.  The 
increase  or  decrease  of  the  population  of  each  parish  to  1841,  inclusive,  may  be  ascertained  at  page  248,  and  sequel. 


TURNPIKE  ROADS  OF  CORNWALL. 

Turnpike  Returns.  No.  of  Miles,  335. 


TRUSTS. 


Bodmin 

Bodmin  and  Roche 

Callington 

Camel  ford,  Wade- 

hridge,    and    St. 

Columb    .... 
Creed  and  St.  Just 
Hayle  Bridge  Comp. 

Helston 

Launceston 

Liskeard 

Penryn  and  Redruth 
St.  Austle  &  Lost-  \ 

withiel / 

Saltash 

Trebarwith  Sands  .  . 
Truro 


Total  Income. 


£  s.  d. 

1,850  2  10 

304  12  3 

710  10  0 

2,596  0  0 

227  5  8 

955  17  II 

2,197  19  11 

2,383  4  7 

2,340  16  10 

1,034  10  1 

1,048  7  1 

468  0  8 

206  15  7 

3,694  7  2 


20,015  10  7 


Total 
Expenditure. 


£  s.    d. 

1,873  13  11 

446  16  5 

673  3  1 

2,839  12  3 

227  16  8 

1,329  3  10 

2,249  16   I 

2,358  5  6 

2,497  3  1 

993  17  6 

903  18  9 

521  4  6 

311  7  10 

3,346  3  5 


20,572  2  10 


Total  Debts. 


£  s.  d. 

8,927  16  6 

3,221  7  0 

4,325  0  0 

6,428  15  0 


1,509 
12,080 
13,966 
12,528 
23,069 

6,651 


0 
0 

17 
0 
9 

10 


5,081  0  10 

19,963  14  8 

3,171  0  2 

12,714  9  1 


133,638   1   3 


Interest  on 
Debts. 


£    S.     d. 

433  10  0 
12  10  0 
60  0  0 

210  0  0 


40 

480 
668 
542 
1,303 
385 


0  0 
0  0 
0  0 
14  2 
9  9 
6  8 


263  8  3 

257  8  9 
164  19  4 
620  14  6 


5,442   1  5 


Hi 


Surveyors' 
Salaries. 


£ 
80 
25 
70 


10 
56 
21 

150 
52 

42 


s.d. 
0  0 
0  0 
0  0 


55     0  0 


0  0 
13  4 
0  0 
0  0 
0  0 
0  0 


50     0  0 


35 
15 

160 


0  0 
0  0 
0  0 


Clerks' 

Salaries. 


30 
10 
20 


s.d. 

0  0 
0  0 
0  0 


15     0  0 


13     0  0 
44  17  6 

0  0 

0  0 

0  0 

10  0 


21 
14 
15 
10 


15     0  0 


12 
5 

40 


0  0 
0  0 
0  0 


821    13  4  265     7   5 


Law 
Expenses. 


£   s.  d. 
40     3   10 


255   19     7 


48  11  2 
13  15  6 
28  15  10 
27   13     9 

5     5     0 


31     3     1 


451     7     9 


'.£ 
20 
10 
12 

15 


21 
16 
25 

15 


139 


The  unpaid  interest  is  £7,113  16s.  Id.     Very  great  and  costly  improvements  have  been  recently  effected, 
parochial  roads  we  have  no  return.     There  are  no  railroads  for  passengers  in  this  county. 


Of  the 


CORNWALL.  24.5 


POPULATION,  LONGEVITY,  DISEASES,  POOR-LAW  UNIONS, 
EXPENDITURE,  &c. 

We  give  the  population  of  every  parish  to  1841,  in  the  Table  of  Poor-law  Unions,  for  the  last 
fifty  years,  decennially;  we  shall  here  give  only  results.  The  parochial  returns  for  1841  are  not  yet 
made  public ;  but  by  great  exertions,  and  at  considerable  expense,  we  have  procured  the  returns  from 
the  localities,  and  their  general  accuracy  may  be  relied  upon.  The  population  of  Cornwall,  in  1831 
and  1841,  including  the  Scilly  Islands,*  was  as  follows  it- 
Males,  1841  .  .  .  164,451  Females  .  .  .  176,818  Total  .  .  .  341,269 
Males,  1831  .  .  .  146,213              Females  .  .  .   154,725  Total  .  .  .  300,938 

Increase,    18,238  22,093         Total  increase,  40,331 

Majority  of  females  over  males  in  the  county,  on  the  census  of  1841,  12,367,  or  1,075  females 
for  every  1,000  males. 

The  total  population  of  Cornwall  in  1801  was  188,269.  This  number  had  increased  15  percent,  in 
1811,  and  the  population  then  amounted  to  216,667.  In  1821  it  was  found  in  the  preceding  ten  years 
to  have  augmented  19  per  cent.  Between  1821  and  1831,  17  per  cent. ;  and  between  this  last  date  and 
1841,  13-4  percent. 

In  the  year  1377  the  inhabitants  of  Cornwall — assessed  by  a  poll-tax,  exempting  mendicants  and 
children  under  fourteen  years  of  age,  and  including  the  religious,  both  male  and  female,  who  were 
686  in  number — were  34,960.  This  was  after  a  fearful  plague  had  raged ;  J  and,  according  to  a  rough 
calculation,  allowing  1,500  or  2,000  mendicants,  would  make  the  total  population  about  48,000.  In 
1700  the  number  was  estimated  at  105,800,  and  in  1750  at  135,000.  It  is  singular  that  in  the  muster 
for  able-bodied  military  in  1574— the  return  for  Devonshire  being  10,000,  Kent,  8,960,  Yorkshire, 
40,187,  Bucks,  7,253  (now  one  of  the  least  populous  counties),  Norfolk,  8,460,  Somerset,  6,800 — Corn- 
wall should  be  next,  mustering  6,600.§ 

The  inhabited  houses  in  1831  were  53,521 ;  uninhabited,  2,538  ;  building,  758.  In  1841,  inhabited, 
65,641,  uninhabited,  4,956,  building,  928.  Increase  in  ten  years — inhabited,  12,120,  or  22-6  per  cent., 
uninhabited,  2,418,  building,  170;  the  average  number  of  inhabitants  to  each  house  in  1841  being  5-2. 
The  total  increase  of  houses  between  1831  and  1841  is  14,708,  being  an  average  of  1,470  built  in  each 
year  since  1831.  If  we  may  judge  by  a  comparison  of  the  increase  of  inhabited  houses  in  the  same 
period,  the  social  and  domestic  comforts  of  the  people  in  this  county  must  have  greatly  increased, 
being  only  13"4  per  cent.,  -while  the  inhabited  houses  are  22'6  per  cent. 

The  Registrar-General's  return  ||  for  June  30,  1840,  it  may  be  presumed  approximates  as  closely  to 
accuracy  as  such  returns  will  ever  do;  but  applying  it  to  the  census  of  1841,  would  be  obviously 
erroneous,  as  the  census  was  taken  on  the  6th  of  June,  1841,  and  there  is  a  tenth  part  of  the  decennial 
increase  too  much,  wanting  twenty-four  days.  The  population  to  which  the  return  of  June  30, 
1840,  applies,  should  be  337,503,  in  place  of  341,269 ;  and  thus  calculating,  for  the  sake  of  accuracy,  we 
have  the  following  results  for  Cornwall: — Marriages,  2,399  ;  births,  1 1,240 — males,  5,785,  females,  5,455 ; 
deaths,  5,760 — males,  2,985,  females,  2,775  ;  marriages  to  pt  pulation,  1  to  140"6 ;  births  to  population,  1 
to  30-02  ;  deaths  to  population.  1  to  58-59;^f  marriages  to  deaths,  1  to  2-40;  marriages  to  births,  1  to 
4-68;  deaths  to  births,  1  to  1*9  annually.  Of  men,  392  per  cent.,  and  of  women,  14-17,  marry  under 
twenty-one  years  of  age ;  and  33  men  and  54  women  per  cent,  sign  with  marks  on  their  marriage,  the 
men  being  the  same,  the  women  5  more  than  the  average  for  all  England. 

The  majority  of  deaths  takes  place  in  the  March  quarter,  the  minority  in  that  of  September ; 
the  same  rule  holds  good  regarding  births.  We  know  not  if  we  are  the  first  to  remark,  that  in  all 
the  southern  counties  of  England  this  is  the  case ;  while  in  Cheshire,  Lancashire,  the  Ridings  of 
Yorkshire,  in  Durham,  Cumberland,  Northumberland,  and  Westmoreland,  the  births  are  uniformly 
most  in  the  June  quarter.  In  the  five  north-midland  counties,  they  are  nearly  on  an  equality  in  both 
quarters.     Can  this  bear  any  relation  to  the  atmospherical  temperature  ? 

Cornwall,  unlike  the  sister  county  of  Devon,  has  a  large  population  of  miners,  and  yet  it  stands 
first  in  the  returns,  giving  1  death  in  58-59,  and  Devon  1  death  in  5779.  Sir  Charles  Lemon 
calculates  the  mining  population  at  about  28,000.     We  notice,  as  accounting  for  an  increase  of 

*  An  account  of  these  Islands  we  propose  to  give  with  the  smaller  Islands  appendant  to  England. 

t  Parliamentary  Returns.  J  Magna  Britannia,  vol.  iii.  §  Public  Document. 

]|  The  Registrar-General's  districts  in  Cornwall  are  fifteen  in  number,  viz.  St.  Austle,  Bodmin,  Camelford,  St.Columb, 
Falmouth,  St.  Germans,  (this  last  including  Anthony,  Rame,  St.  John,  Sheviock,  St.  Stephens,  Saltash,  Botus  Fleming, 
Landulph,  Pillaton,  St.  Mellion,  Quethiock,  Landrake,  part  of  the  parish  of  Maker,  the  borough  of  Saltash,  the  borough 
and  parish  of  St.  Germans,  (part  of  St.  Budeaux  is  unaccountably  omitted,)  Helston,  Holsworthy,  (comprising  North 
Tamerton  and  part  of  Bridgrule,)  Launceston,  (comprising  Alternon,  Trewen,  Laneast,  Lewannick,  Lawhitton,  Stoke- 
Climsland,  Lezant,  South  Petherwin,  Northill,  Eglosketry,  Tremayne,  Tresmere,  Treneglos,  Warbstow,  St.  Stephen  with 
Newport  and  St.  Thomas,  part  of  the  parish  of  Boyton,  and  the  borough  and  parish  of  Launceston,!  Liskeard,  Penzance, 
Redruth,  Scilly  Isles,  Stratton,  and  Truro. 

IT  The  return  of  deaths  for  all  England,  without  Wales,  we  have  made,  with  great  care,  1  to  44  io  annually. 


246 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


mortality  in  the  male  sex  between  40  and  60,  a  disease  called  the  "  miner's  consumption,"  to  dis- 
tinguish it  from  the  common  species  of  disorder  so  called.  Dr.  Barham  states  that  in  St.  Agnes, 
Perranzabulo,  Kenwyn,  and  Kea,  out  of  146  deaths  of  miners,  77  die  from  consumption,  which  attacks 
only  33  out  of  134  in  other  classes.  We  have  examined  the  returns  of  all  the  English  counties,  and 
find  Cornwall  standing  alone  in  this  peculiarity  of  the  disease,  giving  662  males  to  569  females ; 
whereas  in  Essex,  a  county  of  the  same  population,  these  numbers  reversed  would  appear  about  correct, 
there  being  in  that  county  nearly  a  hundred  female  deaths  annually  from  this  cause  more  than  male. 
London,  Manchester,  Liverpool,  and  Birmingham,  present  the  same  singularity,  it  is  true,  as  regards 
the  male  sex,  but  these  are  towns.  In  a  county  so  remarkably  temperate  and  healthy,  this 
singular  complaint,  which  it  does  not  appear  has  been  yet  much  noticed,  demands  close  investiga- 
tion into  its  nature  and  causes.  The  appendix  to  the  Registrar-General's  return,  which,  as  before 
observed,  may  now  be  depended  upon  as  a  document  for  one  year,  will  not  give  the  inferences  most 
desirable,  which  should  be  drawn  from  a  series  of  such  returns  for  successive  years.  Out  of  the  5,760 
deaths  recorded,  the  causes  of  5,651  have  been  obtained,  and  stand  as  follow:  — 1.  Epidemic, 
endemic,  and  contagious  diseases. —  Of  this  class,  345  cases  were  typhus,  227  measles,  173  hooping- 
cough,  and  72  small-pox.  2.  Diseases  of  the  nervous  system,  617 — 304  females,  and  313  males; 
convulsions  number  200;  paralysis   127,  and  apoplexy  105;  total,  1,032— males,  500,  females,  532. 

3.  Diseases  of  the  respiratory  organs. —  Of  this  class  were  1,653—884  males,  and  769  females; 
among  them  the  pneumonia  cases  were  311,  and  consumption  1,231 — 662  males,  and  569   females. 

4.  Organs  of  circulation. — There  were  of  these  34  cases.  5.  Diseases  of  the  intestinal  canal,  gastritis 
enteritis  giving  62  females  to  51  male  cases  ;  of  the  pancreas,  liver,  and  spleen,  270 — males,  132,  and 
females,  138.  6.  Urinary  organs,  21, 17  being  males.  7.  Childbed,  44,  disease,  4  ;  total,  48.  8.  Organs 
of  locomotion,  31 ;  of  these  17  were  rheumatism — 17  men.  9.  Of  the  integumentary  system,  10  cases 
— 7  males.  10.  Of  uncertain  seat,  943;  among  these  last  were  242  cases  ot  dropsy,  139  being  females; 
392  of  debility,  209  being  males ;  and  77  of  sudden  death— 46  males.  11.  Of  old  age,  716,  400  being 
females.  12.  Of  intemperance,  1  ;  and  of  violent  deaths,  275  ;  of  which  number  only  72  were  females. 
Deaths  from  accident  are  frequent  in  the  mines,  but  many  suffer  injuries  that  only  prove  fatal  in  the 
lapse  of  time,  sometimes  much  protracted.  Only  one  death  is  recorded  from  intemperance.  The  deaths 
by  accident  are  not  so  numerous  as  might  be  expected  in  a  population  of  341,269.  In  Liverpool, 
numbering  only  218,233,  the  violent  deaths  are  240,  intemperance  4,  starvation  34!  In  London  the 
violent  deaths  are  more  in  proportion.  In  Manchester  and  Salford,  out  of  only  236,935,  the  violent 
deaths  are  282  ;  15  died  from  intemperance,  and  5  from  starvation.  To  the  honour  of  Cornwall,  the 
East  and  North  Ridings  of  York,  and  Durham,  the  tables  for  those  counties  show  no  returns  of  deaths 
from  starvation  within  their  boundaries !  In  Durham  and  the  North  Division  of  Lancashire,  in  a 
population  of  311,356,  the  violent  deaths  are  256,  about  the  same  as  in  Cornwall. 

As  the  present  subject  is  interesting  to  many  persons,  and  comparative  tables  will  best  exhibit  the 
state  of  health  in  any  district,  as  compared  with  all  England,  we  shall  conclude  with  presenting  one 
of  this  kind  to  the  reader.  Out  of  1,000  persons  who  die  in  all  England  and  Wales,  and  1,000  who 
die  in  Cornwall,  the  deaths  take  place  at  the  following  ages  : — 

ENOLAND  AND  WALES. 


CORNWALL. 

Males. 

Females. 

Mean. 

Under 

1 

2113 

168  6 

1899 

1 

and  under 

3 

105-7 

104  0 

104  9 

3 

»» 

5 

36  3 

39  0 

37-6 

5 

») 

10 

41  0 

49-8 

45-4 

10 

»* 

15 

229 

32  5 

27-7 

15 

» 

20 

407 

365 

386 

20 

n 

25 

41-7 

38  6 

40  2 

25 

>» 

30 

34-3 

35  4 

34-8 

30 

»» 

35 

30  3 

30-7 

305 

35 

j» 

40 

246 

35  0 

29  8 

40 

» 

45 

27-6 

224 

25-0 

45 

» 

50 

38  3 

29  3 

33  8 

50 

» 

55 

377 

32-1 

34  9 

55 

)> 

60 

38-7 

34-3 

365 

60 

» 

65 

42  4 

41  2 

41-8 

65 

j» 

70 

504 

506 

50-5 

70 

If 

75 

52-1 

57-8 

55  0 

75 

>» 

80 

54-8 

582 

56  5 

80 

71 

85 

41-0 

52  4 

46-7 

85 

n 

90 

205 

35-0 

27-7 

90 

and  upwai 

•ds 

77 

166 

122 

Males. 

Females. 

Mean. 

241 

195 

218 

131-9 

1302 

1311 

55  2 

•     57  2 

562 

52-7 

52-9 

52-8 

25-7 

286 

27-1 

32  2 

38-6 

35-4 

37-5 

42  4 

40  0 

33  4 

398 

366 

31  2 

35  4 

33  3 

31  1 

34-0 

32  5 

29-9 

309 

30  4 

30-2 

28-6 

29-4 

30-4 

28-9 

29-7 

30-2 

29-7 

29-9 

374 

377 

37  6 

38  8 

39-6 

39-2 

41-2 

43-4 

42  3 

38  5 

42-9 

40-7 

29-1 

34-0 

31-5 

15-8 

200 

179 

6b 

102 

8-4 

CORNWALL.  247 

If  the  nature  of  the  miner's  labour  before  were  supposed  not  to  be  prejudicial,  the  appendix  to  the  re- 
turns of  the  Registrar-General  prove  it  very  plainly  ;  for  example,  in  Redruth,  the  centre  of  the  largest 
and  most  populous  mines,  on  a  high  and  healthy  site,  we  find,  in  a  population  of  48,063,  no  less  than 
236  cases  of  No.  1,  while  at  Penzance,  with  a  population  of  50,100,  we  find  but  154  cases;  and  at 
Truro,  but  93  out  of  a  population  of  43,137.  Then  under  the  head  of  disorders  of  the  respiratory 
organs,  No.  3,  we  find,  Redruth,  309,  Penzance,  253,  and  Truro,  199  ;  and  no  less  than  261  out  of  this 
309  are  from  consumption,  being  90  more  than  in  any  other  districts,  numerous  mines  existing  as  well 
both  in  those  of  Penzance  and  Truro,  but  still  in  far  inferior  proportion  to  Redruth. 

The  miners  are  reported  to  fall  off  before  60,  and  not  commonly  to  attain  that  age  ;  and  those  who 
live  beyond  that  term  find  their  health  infirm,  compared  to  the  other  part  of  the  population.  In 
comparing  Cornwall  with  Cumberland,  so  celebrated  for  instances  of  extreme  longevity,  and  with 
the  sister  county,  the  diminution  of  male  numbers  from  40  upwards  will  be  apparent : — 


Under  10. 

10  to  20. 

20  to  40. 

40  to  60. 

6  i  to  SO. 

80  to  100. 

Cornwall  .  . 

.     2,949 

2,249 

2,569 

1,506-10 

66610 

58-42 

Cumberland 

.     2,876 

2,088 

2,661 

1,5126 

686-11 

7411 

2,925 

2,143 

2,548 

1,5754 

74313 

65-6 

Here  Cornwall  shows  the  falling  off,  as  we  conjectured  it  must  do,  since— 

Cornwall  has  7,747  alive  at  40  years  of  age,  out  of  10,000  living. 

Cumberland    7,715  " 

Devon       "     7,616 
Up  to  40  Cornwall  has  32  more  alive  than  Cumberland,  and  131  more  than  Devon.     At  60  Corn- 
wall is  but  6-4  behind  Cumberland,  but  68-4  behind  Devon.     Above  60  the  numbers  change  more 
seriously  : — 

Cornwall  .  .  .     72452  out  of  10,000  between  60  and  100. 

Cumberland   .     760-22 

Devon  ....  808-19 
As  the  climate  of  Devonshire  and  Cornwall  is  similar,  this  difference  must  be  ascribed  to  the 
shorter  lives  of  the  mining  part  of  the  population.  Extraordinary  instances  of  longevity  occur  every- 
where; but  this  occurrence  is  no  proof  of  the  healthiness  of  a  district,  for  some  Englishmen  live  to 
an  advanced  age  in  the  midst  of  West  Indian  pestilence.  The  estimate  of  advantage  in  prolonged 
life  is  good,  generally,  to  a  certain  point  alone,  beyond  which  years  become  a  burthen,  except  in  a 
few  favoured  instances,  and  are  not  to  be  desired,  as  the  old  man  of  105  at  the  Lizard  point  told  Dr. 
Borlase.  (See  p.  19.)  That  climate,  then,  must  be  really  the  best,  in  which  the  greatest  number,  un- 
affected by  artificial  causes,  live  to  experience  the  lesser  portion  of  the  ills  of  senility,  and  not  "  mere 
oblivion,"  its  living  death ;  and  for  this  reason,  that  country  is  most  desirable  where  the  deaths  are 
fewest  in  proportion  to  the  population. 


POOR-LAW  UNIONS  AND  PAROCHIAL  STATISTICS. 

The  Parishes  of  the  county  are  here  given  arranged  in  Poor  Law  Unions,  exhibiting  the  annual 
value  of  property  as  assessed  to  the  property  tax ;  the  amount  expended  for  the  maintenance  of  the 
poor  in  the  year  1838  ;  the  state  of  the  parochial  population  for  four  decennial  periods;  the  sums 
expended  for  the  relief  of  the  poor  before  the  passing  of  the  New  Poor  Law  ;  and  the  number  of 
statute  acres  in  each  parish. 

The  total  expenditure  for  the  relief  of  the  poor  in  this  county  in  1833-4,  calculating  the  population 
from  the  census  of  1831  at  300,938,  amounted  to  6s.  2d.  per  head.  The  number  of  pauper  lunatics 
was  57  males,  and  49  females ;  total,  106,  or  one  in  2,839  :  the  number  of  idiots  was  57  males,  and 
38  females  ;  total,  95,  or  one  in  3,168. 

The  market  towns  are  printed  in  small  capitals  ;  the  letters  which  follow  them  indicating  on  what 
day  the  market  is  held.  The  letter  A.  denotes  an  assize  town  ;  the  sign  ^f  a  polling  place  for  Mem- 
bers of  Parliament ;  towns  where  excise  duties  are  collected  are  indicated  by  a  *  ;  sea-ports,  with  a 
custom-house,  by  § ;  and  q.  s.  that  the  Quarter  Sessions  for  the  county  are  held  there.* 

There  are  markets  held  in  several  parts  of  the  mining  districts  for  the  convenience  of  the  work- 
men, and  sometimes  from  ancient  prescriptive  right.  Of  the  last  kind  there  is  one  at  Wadebridge. 
A  market  is  held  at  Port  Isaac  on  Fridays  for  the  use  of  the  quarry-men  at  De  la  Bole,  and  at  Heyle 
on  Saturdays.  St.  Burian,  Cargol,  Crofthole,  St.  Germans,  Inceworth,  Millbrook,  Kilkhampton, 
Lawhitton,  Mitchel,  Mousehole,  Polruan,  Probus,  West  Looe,  and  a  place  called  Shepestall,  supposed 
to  have  been  in  Ruan  Lanyhorne,  had  once  charters  for  markets  according  to  Lysons.  We  have 
given  the  fairs  by  themselves,  some  of  which  are  dwindled  to  slight  observance ;  the  days,  too,  are 
frequently  changed. 

"  The  post-towns  will  be  found  under  the  head  of  Benefices,  &-c.  in  the  last  column. 


248 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


St.   GERMANS  UNION.— Commenced  January  14,  1837. 


NAMES  OF  UNITED 
PARISHES. 


1.  St.  Germans      

2.  Anthony,  St.  Jacob  .  .  . 

3.  Botusfleming 

4.  St.  John 

5.  Landrake,  w.  St.  Erney  . 

6.  Landulph 

7.  St.  Mellion 

Pillaton 

Quethiock 

Ranie 

§Saltash,  Sat*    .  .  .  . 

Sheviock 

St.  Stephen's  by  Saltash 

Parish  in  Cornwall  Sf  Devon  : 
Maker1 


Total 


>  ■-   . 

Is- 

BCL, 

<   o 


£ 
15,283 
6361 
1887 
1016 
5818 
3596 
1928 
2236 
5756 
2372 
2473 
2787 
9253 

3465 


64,231 


£  s. 
1320  13 
763  10 
175  13 
106  8 
404  7 
329  10 
149  14 
193  14 
242  8 
324  10 
248  12 
241 
595 


19 

3 


741  14 


5837  15 


23 


POPULATION  IN  THE  YEARS 


1801. 


No. 

2030 

1795 
210 
110 
613 
529 
284 
336 
587 
904 

1150 
409 

1004 

3305 


1811. 


No. 

2139 

2144 
237 
143 
768 
590 
326 
477 
585 
978 

1478 
428 

1121 

5247 


13,266 


16,661 


1821 


No. 

2404 

2642 
297 
178 
841 
579 
321 
452 
684 
807 

1548 
491 

1325 

3018 


1831. 


15,587 


No. 

2586 

3099 
279 
150 
872 
570 
330 
413 
692 
896 

1637 
453 

1455 

2637 


16,069 


1841. 


No. 

2843 

2894 
250 
149 
893 
550 
395 
434 
657 
800 

1541 
567 

1422 

1725 


^*"  w  «"1 
cd  T3  — 


>""  n  *~* 


£ 

1483 
919 
158 
97 
404 
305 
133 
166 
265 
304 
330 
188 
743 

679 


16,120 


6174 


Area. 


Acres. 

10,050 
2800 
1290 
640 
3640 
1880 
2970 
3140 
4220 
1200 
St.Stn. 
2290 
4880 

2260 


41,260 


LISKEARD   UNION.  —  Commenced  January  16,  1337. 


1.  ^[LiSKEARDTown,*  Sat. 

2.  Liskeard  Parish 

3.  Boconnoc     

4.  Broadoak 

5.*[Callington,  Wed.Sat* 

6.  Calstock 

7.  St.  Clare,  or  Cleer  .  .  .  . 

8.  St.  Dominick 

9.  Duloe 

10.  St.  Ive 

11.  St.  Keyne 

12.  Linkinhorne 

13.  Lansallos,  w.   part   of) 

PoLPERRO,  Fit.    .    .  ) 

14.  Lanreath 

15.  LanteglosbyFowey,  Fri. 

16.  §  East  Looe,*  Sat. .  .  . 

17.  §  West  Looe,  Sut.  .  .  . 

18.  St.  Martin 

19.  Morval 

20.  Menheniot 

21.  St.  Neot 

22.  Pelynt 

23.  St.  Pinnock 

24.  South  Hill 

25.  Talland,  with  part  of ) 
Polperro,  Fri.  .  .  ) 

26.  St.  Veep 

Total  .... 


707: 
6153 
1252 
1025 
4142 
5801 
5448 
4149 
5094 
3767 
1071 
5643 

3218 

3110 

4146 

921 

563 

3469 

3910 

10,599 

4635 

4732 

1816 

2622 

3128 

4087 


727  14 
678  6 
113  7 
66  4 
604  13 
755  17 
494  15 
337 
462 
396 


105 
672 


391   9 

370  11 

405  9 

145  2 

98  14 

248  10 

323  13 

862  19 

656  10 

383  7 

147  18 

293  5 

414  19 

322  19 


101578  10,488  17 


1860 
848 
212 
173 
819 

1105 
774 
538 
704 
486 
139 
924 

847 

478 
678 
467 
376 
344 
533 
918 
906 
630 
302 
447 

760 

506 


1975 
909 
236 
188 
938 

2064 
780 
534 
821 
535 
157 

1002 

804 

548 
859 
608 
433 
343 
574 
1024 
1041 
708 
316 
466 

801 

511 


2423 

1 

2853 

1096 

1189 

253 

259 

235 

301 

1321 

1388 

2388 

2328 

985 

982 

690 

726 

779 

928 

602 

656 

153 

201 

1080 

1159 

880 

884 

629 

651 

973 

1208 

770 

865 

539 

593 

411 

455 

615 

644 

1170 

1253 

1255 

1424 

750 

804 

431 

425 

534 

530 

839 

841 

585 

697 

3001 

1286 

312 

303 

1685 

2553 

1412 

825 

937 

768 

194 

1525 

828 

651 

1269 

926 

616 

476 

733 

1221 

1515 

834 

421 

640 

834 

710 


16,774  19,175  22.388J  24,244  23,475 


969 
648 
140 

72 
664 
996 
593 
335 
524 
364 

66 
701 

419 

304 
512 
249 
43 
254 
314 
1068 
535 
493 
163 
316 

450 

332 


2140 
5600 
2230 
3210 
2600 
5450 
9700 
2680 
5900 
7890 
850 
8270 

2930 

1750 
3280 

St.  Mn. 

Tallad. 
3060 
3730 
6280 

14,540 
4400 
3240 
3089 

2690 

2940 


11,524  108,340 


(1)  In  Maker  parish,  St.  Germans  Union;  the  manor  of  Vaulsterholme,  in  which  part  of  Millbrooke  and  Mount  Edgcumbe 
lands  are  situated,  is  in  the  county  of  Devon,  although  more  than  half  the  parish,  the  harbours  of  Hamoaze,  and  the  Tamar, 
a  Cornish  river,  from  high-water  mark  on  both  shores,  are  subject  to  Cornisli  jurisdiction.  It  is  supposed,  that  when 
Athelstan  drove  the  Cornish  from  the  Ex  to  the  Tamar,  and  made  the  counties  separate  jurisdictions,  which  were  but  one 
before,  the  owners  of  lands  on  both  sides  were  allowed  to  retain  them  in  the  county  to  which  each  respectively  belonged. 
The  absurdity  has,  in  some  measure,  been  qualified,  by  the  legislature  extending  the  authority  of  the  magistrates  of  the 
county,  in  which  such  insulated  portions  are  found,  over  them,  and  regulating  the  right  of  voting;  but  how  much  better  to 
settle  the  bounds  by  a  general  act,  defining  them  agreeably  to  the  ancient  limit.  In  some  counties,  portions  of  other  counties 
are  m*ny  miles  from  that  in  which  they  are  said  to  be  situated;  in  one  case,  we  believe,  the  entire  breadth  of  a  l.ige  county 
must  be  traversed  to  arrive  in  that  to  which  the  resident  is  said  to  belong.  The  natural  boundary  of  Cornwall  and  Devon  is 
the  best  defined  of  any  in  England.     Of  the  above,  1,156  inhabitants  are  in  Devon. 


CORNWALL. 


249 


REDRUTH    UX10H.— Commenced  May  13,  1837- 


NAMES  OF  UNITED 
PARISHES. 


1.  f  Redruth,*  Tu.  Fri.  . 

2.  Camborne,  Sat 

3.  Gwennap,  w.  St.  Day,S. 

4.  Gwinear 

5.  Gwithian 

6.  Illogan 

7.  Stythians 

8.  Phillack 

Total    .  .  .  . 


CBl, 


<  o 


£ 

7631 
11,783 
18,273 

5185 

1110 
11,334 

4110 
16,393 


75,819 


r  5 
£28 

x  —  ~ ' 


£        *. 

1572   17 

1879     3 

2353   16 

561     8 

186   12 

915   15 

594  12 

307     9 


8371    12 


«5 

POPULATION  IN  THE  YEARS 

*  •£  in 

•a 

H 

C3 

r 
O 

ra  -3  — 
t-  «  . 

>  —  O 

1801. 

1811. 

1821. 

1831. 

1841. 

No. 

No. 

No. 

No. 

No. 

£ 

6 

4924 

5903 

6607 

8191 

9305 

1440 

5 

4811 

4714 

6219 

7699 

10,061 

1709 

6 

4594 

5303 

6294 

8539 

10,794 

2698 

2 

1651 

1952 

2383 

2728 

2862 

533 

1 

329 

372 

412 

539 

625 

98 

4 

2895 

4078 

5170 

6072 

7815 

1093 

2 

1269 

1394 

1688 

1874 

2530 

563 

3 

29 

1475 

2119 

2529 

3053 

4055 

351 

21,948 

25,835 

31,302 

38,695 

48,047 

8485 

Area. 


Acres. 
3770 
6900 
7940 
4400 
2070 
8010 
4490 
2880 

40,460 


LAUNCESTON  UNION.—  Commenced  February  2,  1837- 


1.  St.  Mary,  %  Launces-  ) 

ton,*  Sat. f 

2.  St.Stephen's,  w.Newport. 

3.  St.  Thomas ) 

4.  St.  Thomas  Street   .  .  J 

5.  Alternon 

6.  Boyton1 

7.  Egloskerry 

8.  Lawhitton      

9.  Lewannick 

10.  Lezant 

11.  Laneast     

12.  North  Hill 

13.  Stoke  Climsland     .  .  .  . 

14.  South  Petherwin    .  .  .  . 

15.  Treneglos 

16.  Tresmeer,  or  Tremere   . 

17.  Tremaine    

18.  Trewen 

19.  Warbstow    . 

20.  North  Petherwin  (Dev.) 

21.  Werrington  {Devon)  .  . 

Total    .  .  . 


3900 

3467 

2072 

6147 

1477 

2195 

2717 

3773 

3303 

851 

5102 

6010 

5005 

1363 

588 

467 

796 

1727 

2917 

2809 


56,686 


640  17 

434  13 

95  14 

96  5 
386  8 
128  9 
108  12 
174 

321  12 

317  15 

68  0 

406  14 

745  18 

427  18 

93  1 

38  8 

42  9 

78  6 

199  7 

347  15 

218  7 


5370  16 


4 

1483 

1758 

2183 

2231 

2460 

712 

2 

738 

896 

977 

1084 

1068 

452 

1 

173 

241 

307 

248 

366 

112 

1 

182 

218 

301 

378 

759 

139 

3 

679 

784 

885 

1069 

1334 

418 

1 

319 

402 

406 

452 

500 

128 

2 

307 

395 

436 

535 

552 

192 

1 

289 

368 

435 

485 

487 

193 

2 

548 

563 

623 

643 

733 

373 

2 

610 

671 

853 

841 

905 

401 

1 

179 

149 

229 

279 

320 

92 

3 

782 

803 

1089 

1155 

1217 

432 

4 

1153 

1237 

1524 

1608 

2073 

1168 

2 

699 

733 

914 

988 

997 

522 

1 

196 

200 

238 

183 

192 

97 

1 

129 

154 

173 

171 

182 

41 

1 

91 

122 

125 

118 

107 

31 

1 

193 

190 

206 

213 

221 

69 

1 

330 

323 

439 

481 

503 

177 

3 

672 

828 

955 

1044 

1066 

344 

2 

489 

491 

635 

661 

685 

204 

39 

10,241 

11,526 

13,933 

14,867 

16,727 

6297 

2180 

3910 

2120 

13.840 
4460 
3060 
2570 
3920 
4660 
2600 
7540 
8880 
1940 
3130 
1490 
960 
970 
4180 
7920 
5070 

85,400 


(1)  This  parish  is  partly  in  Devon,  being  the  hamlet  of  Northcote,  having  100  inhabitants ;  the  whole  parish  is  500. 


TRURO  Union.— Commenced  May  12,  1837- 


1.  If  §  Truro,*  St.  Mary,) 

Wed.  Sat,  q.   s.  .  .  ) 

2.  St.  Agnes,  Th 

3.  St.  Allen 

4.  St.  Anthony  (Roseland) 

5.  Cornelly 

6.  Cuby 

7.  St.  Clement's,  Truro    . 

8.  St.  Erme 

9.  Feock , 

10.  Gerrans 

11.  St.Just,w.§St.MAWEs, ) 

(Roseland)  Fri.  .  .  ) 

12.  Kea    .  .  . 

13.  Kenwyn,  Truro  .... 

14.  Lamorran 

15.  Ladock  

16.  Merther 

Carried  forward    .  . 


6958 

9229 
2468 
1050 
1704 
2402 
7027 
2935 
2871 
3487 

4714 

4306 

13,296 

890 

4566 

2103 


70,006 


1074  5 

1302  8 
224  10 


68 

90 
118 
692  8 
145  14 
330  2 
327  1 

500  3 

776  17 

1546  17 

24  7 

283  18 

144  4 


7649  9 


3 

2358 

2482 

2712 

2925 

3043 

1011 

5 

4161 

5024 

5762 

6642 

7757 

1475 

1 

360 

418 

471 

637 

652 

235 

1 

16? 

157 

179 

144 

144 

67 

1 

137 

151 

168 

170 

119 

79 

1 

139 

152 

140 

155 

161 

109 

3 

1342 

1692 

2306 

2885 

3436 

686 

1 

358 

431 

561 

586 

552 

169 

1 

696 

968 

1093 

1210 

1476 

321 

1 

771 

698 

732 

766 

816 

392 

2 

1416 

1639 

1648 

1558 

1488 

533 

4 

2440 

2766 

3142 

3837 

4261 

841 

6 

4017 

5000 

6221 

8492 

9555 

1761 

1 

78 

94 

93 

96 

99 

32 

1 

542 

651 

806 

761 

857 

268 

1 
33 

305 

350 

370 

411 
31,275 

408 

176 

19,283 

22,673 

26,404 

34,824 

8155 

190 

8660 
3610 
710 
1480 
2410 
3520 
3780 
2530 
2470 

2550 

6860 
7370 
1320 
5730 
2170 

55,360 


K  K 


250 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


TRURO  UNION— continued. 


NAMES  OF  UNITED 
PARISHES. 

Annual  Val. 

of  Property, 

1815. 

Expended 

for  the  Pour, 

1838. 

Guardians. 

POPULATION  IN  THE  YEARS 

Average  Ex- 
pended for  the 
Poor,  1834-5-6. 

Area. 

1801. 

1811. 

1821. 

1831. 

1841. 

Brought  forward  .  .  . 
17.  St.  Michael,  Penkivil  .  . 

19.  Philleigh     

20    Probus  

£ 

70,006 
847 
3385 
2375 
9392 
2635 

Kea  P. 

841 

6625 

£         s. 

7649     9  33 
88     4     1 
558     0    3 
125   15    1 
683     9    2 
170     7    1 
25  14    ] 
151     4    ] 
757   12    5 

No.     1 

19,283 

154 

1389 

315 

10131 

329: 

937 
!      1007 

No. 

22,673 

178 

1527 

342 

1163 

328 

923 
1082 

No. 
26,404 

167 
1702 

395 
1353 

376 

66 

1035 

1421 

No. 
31,275 

179 
2743 

432 
1350 

424 

59 

1127 

1525 

No. 
34,824 

175 
3161 

456 
1472 

444 
52 

995 
1569 

£ 

8155 
93 
692 
185 
742 
137 
41 
214 

1110 

Acres. 

55,360 
1240 

10,660 

2310 

7400 

2120 

740 

Cuby. 
5430 

21.  Ruan  Lanyhorne   .... 

22.  Tregavethan  Manor .  .  . 

Total    .... 

96,106 

10,209   14  45  24,427   28,216', 

32,919,39,114 

43,148 

11,369 

85,260 

CAMELFORD 

UNION. — Commenced  February  1,  1837. 

1.  CAMELFORD,u>.Lante-  ) 

4141 

1396 
2561 
1998 
3393 

859 

1784 
1400 
1564 

2089 

1186 
5041 
3674 
1024 

475    0  ; 

102     4! 
221     9    : 
145     5 
148     7 

58     1 

92   161 
80     4 
82    14' 

187      1 

69  u; 
496   12 
322     0 

54     3 

J        912 

I         170 
>        513 
I         134 
I         217 

1          140 

I         199 
I         104 

1  158 

2  311 

I         141 

i         911 

3  649 
1         100 

1100 

219 
506 
165 
262 

212 

208 
105 
181 

396 

176 
857 
730 
112 

1256 

229 
554 
175 
363 

223 

263 
123 
216 

425 

212 

990 
877 
133 

1359 

244 
627 
171 
389 

358 

271 
127 
215 

497 

227 
1260 
1006 

192 

1541 

291 
724 
221 
408 

354 

267 
137 
225 

573 

234 
1719 
1185 

184 

531 

145 
223 
110 
149 

67 

108 
105 

110 

179 

46 
648 
359 

85 

3750 

4020 
9180 
3540 
6260 

430 

2600 
1940 
1780 

3140 

3300 
5900 
3960 
1130 

4.  St.  Cleather 

6.  Boscastle,  part,  and) 
Forrabury j 

10.  Minster,  and   part   of) 

12    St.  Teath 

13.  Tintagel  and  Bossiney  . 

Total    .... 

32,110 

2535    10  2 

1 

2      4659 

5229 

6039 

6943 

8063 

2865 

50,930 

St.  AUSTLE 

UNION. —  Commenced  A pril  30,  1837. 

1.  §^[St.  Austle,  Fri.    .  . 

2.  St.  Blazey 

3.  Creed 

40,628 
1878 
2442 
1524 
4685 
4856 
3487 
854 
458S 
163S 
1114 
398t 
6696 
1874 
453< 

2168  19 

372  15 

166     1 

255     2 

652   14 

346     0 

618      1 

175   18 

919   13 

238     3 

112   13 

493    13 

.         846     3 

[         158   19 

1        539     5 

6      3788 
3        467 
I         217 

1  318 

2  1176 
2       1155 

2  1009 

1  525 

3  2052 

2  780 

1  86 

2  954 

3  1738 
1         164 
3        727 

3686 

442 

226 

478 

1125 

1319 

1116 

601 

2225 

626 

104 

1161 

1904 

186 

741 

6175 

938 

279 

592 

1663 

1455 

1203 

688 

245C 

1174 

174 

1425 

2479 

248 

1238 

8758 
2155 

258 

721 
1699 
1767 
1205 

715 
2169 
1306 

197 
1630 
2477 

314 
2288 

10,320 
3234 

265 

828 
1468 
1643 
1232 

607 
2310 
1146 

208 
2041 
2643 

311 
3152 

207C 
444 
135 
278 
781 
379 
639 
216 
962 
247 
93 
471 
976 
10S 
624 

11,540 
2000 
2710 
3370 
6100 
1900 
4660 

Creed. 

1250 

2380 

820 

4930 

13,420 
1180 
2990 

4.  St.  Denis 

5.  St.  Ewe 

6.  §  Fowet,  Sat. 

7.  Gorran 

9.  §  Mevagissey,  Sat.  .  . 

11.  St.  Michael  Carhayes  . 

12.  Roche 

13.  St.  Stephen's  in  Brannel 

15.  Tywardreth 

Total    .  .  . 

.  84,78$ 

!      8063   19  I 

S3  15,156 

15,94C 

22,181 

27,659 

31,408 

8424 

59,250 

St.  COLUM 

B  UNION.— Commenced  May  9,   1837. 

1.  StColumb,Major,*7'A 
3.  Colan 

10,581 
69K 

168; 

923  18 
)         460   16 
i          61   18 

4      1816 
3         962 
1         191 

8      296S 

207C 
998 
221 

328S 

2492 

122£ 

25S 

279C 

145C 

261 

1      3146 
I      173J 

31! 

us; 

51( 
4( 

i   11,680 
)      7860 
)      1790 

Carried  forward  .  . 

.  19,17* 

5      1446  12 

397" 

4501 

5096 

173; 

>  21,330 

CORNWALL. 


251 


St.  COLUMB  UNION -continued. 


NAMES    OF   UNITED 
PARISHES. 


Brought  forward 

4.  St.  Columb,  Minor 

5.  Crantock 

6.  Cubert 

7.  St.  Enoder  .... 

8.  St.  Ervan    .... 

9.  St.  Eval , 

10.  St.  Issey 

11.  Little  Petherick 

12.  Mawgan  in  Pydar 

13.  St.  Merry n    .  .  . 

14.  Newlyn 

15.  §Padstow,  Sat.  . 

16.  St.  Wenn    .... 

Total 


t>  oj 


£ 
19,176 
6238 
3244 
2552 
5303 
2812 
2399 
2050 
1357 
4016 
4084 
6663 
6934 
2963 

69,791 


0)  o 

x  <->  ~~ 


£ 

1446  12 

595  10  3 

204  16  1 

108  14  1 

342  101  2 


222 
112 

392 

51  3 

297  3 

345  4 

419  15 

878  0 

203  11 


1801. 


5619  14  31 


No. 

2969 
999 
299 
269 
869 
358 
288 
522 
126 
543 
425 
735 
1332 
358 


1811. 


10,092 


No 

3289 

1126 

358 

289 

881 

331 

309 

632 

134 

622 

458 

798 

1498 

452 


11,177 


M  IN  THE  YEARS 

1821 

1831. 

1841. 

No. 

No. 

No. 

3977 

4501 

5096 

1297 

1406 

1681 

389 

458 

450 

322 

487 

368 

833 

1124 

1127 

422 

453 

477 

323 

354 

349 

660 

720 

748 

217 

224 

208 

580 

745 

749 

537 

576 

576 

1045 

1218 

1451 

1700 

1822 

2145 

589 

649 

725 

48,891 

14,737 

16,150 

we  — . 

>  -   o 
«;  i>  o 


Area. 


£ 
1735 
652 
211 
121 
336 
164 
106 
374 
49 
318 
289 
372 
792 
199 

5718 


Acres. 

21,330 
5520 
2480 
2320 
4050 
3110 
2970 
4440 
1720 
5130 
3740 
8340 
3270 
5600 


74,020 


BODMIN  UNION. — Commenced  May  10,  1837. 


1.  Bodmin  (parish)    .  .  . 

2.  \  Uodmin,  Sat*  A.  q.  s. 

3.  Blisland 

4.  Cardinham     

5.  Endellion 

6.  Eglosheyle 

7.  Helland 

8.  St.  Kew 

9.  Lanhydrock 

10.  Lanivet 

11.  Lanlivery 

12.  Lostwithiel,  *Fri.    .   . 

13.  St.  Minver,  Highlands  ) 

14.  St.  Minver,  Lowlands  ) 

15.  St.  Mabyn , 

16.  Temple 

17.  St.  Tudy 

18.  Warleggan , 

19    Withiel 

20.  St.  Winnow 

21.  Luxulian 

Total 


3077 

7784 
3643 
3029 
5215 
6757 
1588 
8598 
1213 
4086 
5232 
1498 

8354 

6051 
156 
4286 
1127 
2109 
4304 
3768 


81,875 


201  0 
1008  13 
236  6 
256  15 
564  16 
539  8 

58  15 
602  8 

93  2 
435  18 
504  2 
303  16 
376  3 

137  11 
393  19 

5  10 
329  19 
120  17 

138  1 
422  15 
409  2 


7138  16 


348 
1951 

437 
552 
727 
781 
221 
1095 
187 
513 
778 
743 

788 

475 
15 
502 
166 
283 
671 
875 


36  12,108 


383 
2050 
487 
662 
950 
954 
223 
1113 
235 
687 
965 
825 

851 

560 
18 
512 
228 
299 
782 
1047 


13,831 


376 
2902 

637 

775 
1149 
1174 

264 
1218 

251 

803 
1318 

933 

1028 

715 
27 
658 
296 
339 
906 
1276 


17,045 


407 

3375 

644 

728 

1218 

1335 

285 

1316 

239 

922 

1687 

1548 

1110 

793 

29 

658 

274 

406 

1048 

1288 


19,310 


892 

3751 

688 

802 

1154 

1357 

300 

1429 

263 

1149 

1336 

1659 

683 

456 

870 

37 

661 

277 

468 

1056 

1512 


20,800 


210 
878 
198 
303 
621 
495 

30 
651 

82 
322 
423 
304 
410 

76 

324 

4 

269 

149 

9  ; 
424 
385 


6,660 


3470 
2840 
6800 
8550 
3530 
6170 
2770 
7530 
1680 
5540 
6670 
120 

■6890 

3570 
780 
3590 
1930 
2740 
6840 
5400 


87,410 


STRATTON  UNION.— Commenced  January  28,  1837. 


1.  ^[Stratton,  Tu. 

2.  St  Gennis  .... 

3.  Jacobstow   .... 

4.  Kilkhampton    .  . 

5.  Launcells 

6.  Marhamchurch   . 

7.  Moorwinstow    .  . 

8.  Poughill 

9.  Poundstock    .  .  . 

10.  Week  St.  Mary   . 

11.  Whitstone  .... 

Total 


3563 
2562 
2098 
3959 
3920 
2485 
4201 
1979 
2984 
3012 
1832 

32,595 


0 
3 

12 


385  15 
224  9 
135  12 
557 
395 
221 
513  18 
145  6 
268  1 
209  15 
162  2 

3218  13 


4 

960 

1094 

1580 

1613 

1959 

426 

2 

597 

658 

680 

761 

689 

233 

2 

432 

489 

571 

638 

585 

197 

3 

808 

852 

1024 

1126 

1237 

640 

o 

647 

672 

891 

848 

855 

374 

2 

414 

448 

647 

659 

659 

220 

3 

874 

940 

1091 

1102 

1050 

605 

1 

297 

355 

378 

360 

472 

142 

2 

617 

635 

744 

727 

672 

339 

2 

566 

612 

782 

769 

788 

264 

1 

345 

397 

466 

481 

466 

188 

24 

6557 

7152 

8854 

9,084 

9432 

3,628 

2380 
5580 
4890 
8120 
6340 
2630 
7780 
2070 
4420 
5830 
4080 

54,120 


252 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


HELSTON  UNION.— Commenced  June  12,  1837- 


NAMES  OF  UNITED 
PARISHES. 


1.  ^[Helston,  *Sal.   .  .  . 

2.  St.  Anthony  (Meneage) 

3.  Breage ;  .  .  . 

4.  Crcwan 

5.  Cury 

6.  Germoe 

7.  Grade 

8.  Gunwallo 

9.  St.  Keverne 

10.  Landewednack  .... 

11.  St.  Martin  (Meneage) 

12.  Mawgan  (Meneage)  . 

13.  Manaccan 

14.  Mullion 

15.  Kuan  Major 

16.  Ruan  Minor 

17.  Sithney 

18.  Wendron 

Totals  .  .  . 


>s  ■ 

M  £"*  — 

3S» 


<   o 


69,673 


CJ  o 

sPhco 

—    CO 
0>  V   qo 

p.—  — 


826 

102 

1143 

890 

102 

121 

166 

106 

822 

93 

155 

231 

172 

222 

80 

34 

650 

1462 


7384  5 


POPULATION  IN  THE  YEARS 


1801. 


No. 
2248 

261 

2534 

2587 

304 

629 

320 

216 

2104 

244 

363 

785 

498 

529 

142 

317 

1420 

3006 


18,507 


1811. 


No. 
2297 

224 

2888 

3021 

347 

735 

306 

206 

2242 

303 

391 

800 

506 

571 

167 

274 

1552 

3555 


20,385 


1821. 


No. 
2671 

330 

3668 

3973 

505 

830 

355 

252 

2505 

387 

504 

1050 

591 

692 

187 

293 

2238 

4193 


25,224 


1831. 

No. 
3293 

300 

5149 

4332 

523 

1175 

306 

284 

2437 

406 

508 

1094 

654 

733 

162 

269 

2772 

4780 


29,177 


1841. 


No. 
3584 

31.3 

6166 

4638 

541 

1336 

333 

284 

2469 

431 

565 

1084 

569 

808 

163 

302 

3362 

5576 


32,024 


Si 


«I2 

as  -a  ~ 

>  =  s 


£ 
852 

159 

973 

1007 

119 

169 

175 

101 

955 

89 

139 

263 

157 

199 

81 

51 

595 

1431 


7,515 


Area. 


Acres. 
130 

1410 
7390 
7340 
3420 
1360 
2420 
1440 
9650 
1300 
2250 
5510 
1430 
4550 
2520 
890 
5670 
13,370 


72,050 


FALMOUTH   UNION.— Commenced  June  13,  1837. 


1.  §FALMOUTH,*J,M.77A.5a. 

2.  Falmouth  Parish  .... 

11,534 
10,029 
8618 
6503 
3951 
2383 
2591 
6724 
2165 
5117 

1226  0 
291  6 
434  17 
439  11 
448  2 
264  7 
237  16 
831  13 
354  2 
851  17 

4 
3 
2 
2 
1 
1 
1 
3 
2 
4 

23 

3684 

1165 
779 

1229 
624 
387 
427 

1665 
884 

2324 

3933 

1374 

1514 

1327 

714 

396 

397 

1897 

1104 

2713 

4392 

1982 

1634 

1671 

745 

457 

536 

2193 

1362 

2933 

4761 

2523 

1797 

2004 

969 

512 

578 

2647 

1504 

3521 

4844 
2851 
1979 
2042 
1147 
594 
578 
2569 
1755 
3337 

959 
582 
418 
526 
364 
257 
167 
714 
309 
754 

40 
1170 
3320 
8470 
2480 
2410 
2250 
1390 
4030 
290 

6.  Mabe 

8.  Mvlor 

9.  Perran-Arworthal .  .  .  . 
Totals .  .  .  " 

59,615 

5379  11 

13,168 

15,369 

17,905 

20,816 

21,696 

5,050 

25,850 

PENZANCE  UNION.— Commenced  June  10,  1837. 


1.  ^[§  Penzance,*  Th.  Sat. 

2.  St.  Burian 

3.  St  Erth 

4.  Gulval 

5.  St.  Hilary 

6.  §  St.  Ives,*  Wed.  Sat.  . 

7.  St.  Just,  Pen  with   .  .  .  . 

8.  St.  Levan 

9.  Ludgvan  

10.  Madern 

11.  Marazion,  Th 

Michael,St.Mt.  ex.-par, 

12.  Morvah , 

13.  Perran-Uthnoe 

14.  Paul 

15.  Sancreed , 

16.  Sennen , 

17.  Towednack 

18.  UnyLelant,orLclantUny 

19.  Zennar 


Total 


10,101 
7288 
4708 
5170 
3322 
5530 
7776 
2063 
5755 
8454 
3454 

775 
5530 
7464 
3593 
2148 
1483 
3165 
2137 

89,916 


1093  10 

352  9 

495  3 

397  10 

440  19 

900  19 

505  11 

87  1 

408  11 

436  17 

210  2 

43  12 

157  4 

520  12 

208  12 
145 
100 

305  19 

73  15 


11 

4 


6884  1 


6 

3382 

4022 

5224 

6563 

8578 

782 

2 

1161 

1188 

1495 

1707 

1911 

275 

2 

1122 

1317 

1604 

1922 

2452 

522 

2 

1076 

1224 

1353 

1467 

1941 

275 

2 

990 

1248 

1558 

1728 

1966 

470 

4 

2714 

3281 

3526 

4776 

5666 

895 

4 

2779 

3057 

3666 

4667 

7047 

581 

1 

400 

434 

490 

515 

531 

69 

3 

1324 

1491 

1839 

2322 

3190 

410 

2 

1564 

1817 

2011 

2058 

2566 

280 

2 

1009 

1022 

1253 

1393 

1683 

185 

.   . 

125 

223 

161 

163 

,   , 

2 

282 

273 

325 

377 

407 

58 

1 

506 

626 

786 

1033 

1438 

164 

4 

2937 

3371 

3790 

4191 

4664 

483 

2 

782 

790 

1001 

1069 

1248 

184 

1 

431 

495 

637 

689 

659 

154 

1 

465 

532 

582 

737 

967 

86 

2 

1083 

1180 

1271 

1602 

352 

1 
44 

544 

671 

715 

811 

1025 

87 

24,551 

28,164 

33,349 

39,788 

48,102 

6312 

Madn 
6670 
3050 
3280 
3380 
1850 
7820 
2400 
4560 
6810 

St.  Hil. 
70 
2060 
1600 
3530 
4240 
2350 
2880 
4210 
4640 

65,400 


CORNWALL. 


253 


COUNTY  OF  CORNWALL,  RETURNED  IN  THE  UNION  OF  HOLSWORTIIY, 

DEVONSHIRE. 


NAMES  OF  UNITED 
PARISHES. 

Annual  Val. 

of  Property, 

1815. 

Expended 
for  the  Poor, 

1838. 

■S 
Si 

B 

POPULATION  IN  THE  YEARS 

Average  Ex- 
panded for  the 
Poor,  1834-5-6. 

Area. 

1801. 

1811. 

1821. 

No. 

479 
238 

1831. 

1841. 

Total    .... 

£ 

2125 
719 

£ 

222     7 
95     4 

1 

1 

No. 
403 
191 

No. 
420 
176 

No. 
517 
250 

No. 

£ 

170 

77 

Acres. 

5400 

851 

317    11 

COUNTY  OF  CORNWALL,  RETURNED  IN  THE  UNION  OF  PLYMPTON  ST.  MARY, 

DEVONSHIRE. 

.... 

1 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

40 

•  • 

(1)  So  carelessly  have  the  boundaries  of  counties  been  looked  after,  that  few  persons  are  aware  of  the  portion  of  land  on  the 
Devonshire  side  of  the  Tamar,  opposite  the  town  of  Saltash,  belonging  to  the  county  and  duchy  of  Cornwall,  carrying  a  popu- 
lation; it  may  be  that  the  parish  of  St.  Stephens  has  a  claim  to  the  land  in  question,  as  having  been  originally  part  of  the 
honour  of  Trematon  Castle  ;  but  if  not,  then  the  parish  of  St.  Budeaux  must  be  in  both  counties  ;  the  total  population  is  790. 
We  do  not  know  the  number  of  acres,  but  the  Cornish  population  is  stated  to  number  about  forty  persons. 


TOTAL  EXPENDITURE  FOR  THE  RELIEF  OF  THE  POOR  AND  OTHER  CHARGES 

IN  THE  FOLLOWING  YEARS,  viz. 

1831.  1835.  1836.  1837.  1838.  1839.  1840. 

£109,138.         £99,934.         £89,733.  £82,705.         £77,583.  £80,202.  £84,985. 

The  population  in  1834  was  300,938,  and  in  1840,  341,269,  being  an  increase  of  one-seventh ;  and  the 
expenditure  being  £24,148  less  than  in  1834,  or  22  per  cent,  on  the  population  of  1831,  it  follows,  that, 
with  the  access  of  population  in  1840  taken  into  account,  the  decrease  is  of  a  much  larger  amount  than 
appears  in  the  parliamentary  returns. 


PETTY  SESSIONS. 


For  the  hundred  or  district  of  Held  at 

Powder,  East  Div.    ...  St.  Austell. 
Powder, Tywardreth  Div.  Tywardreth  and  Bodmin. 
Powder,  South  Div.  .  .  .  Ruan-Lanyhorne. 
Powder,  West  Div.  .  .  .  Truro. 

Pyder,  East  Div St.  Columb  Major. 

Pyder,  West  Div Newlyn. 

Penwyth,  East  Div. .  .  .  Camborne  and  Penzance. 
Penwyth,  West  Div.    .  .  Penzance. 
East,  Middle  Div Callington. 


For  the  hundred  or  district  of  Held  at 

East,  North  Div Launceston. 

East,  South  Div St.  Germans. 

Kirrier,  East  Div Falmouth. 

Kirrier,  West  Div.    .  .  .  Helston. 

Lesnewth Davidstow  andCamelford. 

Stratton Stratton. 

Trigg Egloshayle. 

West Lanreath  &  Wadebridge. 


Crime  -Prisons. — The  prison  for  criminal  offenders,  as  well  as  for  the  incarceration  of  debtors,  is  at 
Bodmin,  where  only  the  assizes  are  held,  and  it  has  the  reputation  of  being  very  well  conducted.  The 
committals  for  criminal  offences  appear  to  be  somewhat  diminished  ;  in  1805  they  amounted  to  105  on 
a  population  of  188,369  ;  in  1829,  they  were  378  on  a  population  of  302,440;  and  in  1839,  they  were 
293  on  a  population  of  341,269.  In  1839,  out  of  293  prisoners,  of  which  27  were  left  for  trial  at  the  end 
of  the  year,  1  admitted  evidence,  and  1  not  prosecuted,  the  convictions  were  180  to  60  acquitted,  and 
against  24  no  bills  were  found,  or  84  discharged.  Out  of  267  committed  only  10  could  write  well. 
The  cost  of  the  prison  for  the  year  was  2,414/.  8s.,  including  repairs  and  every  expense.  The  average 
cost  per  week  each  prisoner,  dividing  all  expenses,  was  9s.  \d.  Diet  per  head  per  annum  6/.  18s.,  or  per 
week  2s.  7f<7. 


254  ENGLAND  IN  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY 

FAIRS  HELD  IN  THE  YEAR. 
St.  Austle — Thurs.  before  Easter,  Thurs.  in  Whitsun-week,  Fri.  after  July  23,  Oct.  10,  Nov.  30. 
St.  Blazey — Feb.  2.      Blisland — Mon.    nearest   Nov.  22.      Bodmin — Jan.  25,  Sat.  after  Mid-Lent 

Sunday,  Sat.  before  Palm  Sunday,  Tues.  Wed.  before  Whitsuntide,  Dec.  6.     Boscastle  in  Minster 

Aug.  5,  Nov.  22.  Boyton — Mon.  fortnight  after  Aug.  1.  Callincton — First  Tues.  in  March, 
May  4,  Sept.  19,  Nov.  12  Camborne — March  7,  Whit.  Tues.  June  29,  Nov.  11.  Camelford— Fri. 
after  March  10,  May  26,  July  17,  Sept.  6.  St.  Columb— Thurs.  after  M.  Lent  Sunday,  Nov.  12. 
St.  Columb  Minor — July  9.  Crof thole — Lady  Day,  Easter  Tuesday.  St.  Dye— Easter  Monday. 
St.  Ewe — Thurs.  after  April  7,  and  after  Nov.  4.  Falmouth — Aug.  7,  Oct.  1 1.  Five  Lanes,  Alternon 
— Mon.  week  after  June  24,  first  Thurs.  in  Nov.  Fowey — Shrove  Tuesday,  May  1,  Sept.  10.  St. 
Germains — May  28,  Aug.  1.  Goldsithney,  Perran-uthno — Aug.  5.  Grampound — Jan.  18,  March  25, 
June  11.  Helston — Sat.  before  Mid-Lent  and  Palm  Sundays,  Whit-Monday,  July  29,  Sept.  9,  Nov.  8, 
Dec.  1 6.  Hessenford,  St.  Germains — Whit-Tuesday.  St.  Issey — First  Mon.  in  Oct.  St.  Ive — Thurs. 
after  April  7,  and  after  Nov.  4.  St.  Ives — Last  Sat.  in  Nov.  St.  Keverne — Tues.  after  Epiphany. 
Kilkhampton — Holy  Thursday,  that  day  three  weeks,  and  Sept.  26.  Landrake — July  19,  Aug.  24. 
Lanreuth — Three  weeks  after  Shrove  Tues.,  Whit- Tues  ,  Nov.  18.  Launceston — First  Thurs.  in 
March,  and  third  Thurs  in  April,  Whit- Mon.,  July  6,  Nov.  17,  Dec.  6.  St.  Lawrance,  Bodmin — 
Aug.  21,  Oct  29  and  30.  Lelant—  Aug.  15.  Linkinhorne — Last  Thurs.  in  April,  and  last  in  Oct. 
Liskeard — Shrove-Mon.,  the  Mon.  before  Palm  Sund.,  Holy  Thurs.,  Aug.  15,  Oct.  2,  Mon.  after 
Dec.  6.  Lostwithiel — July  10,  Sept.  4,  Nov.  13.  St.  Mabyn — Feb.  13  Marazion — Mid-Lent 
Mon.  and  Sept.  29.  Marham  Church — Wednesday  after  March  25,  and  Aug.  12.  St.  Martin, 
Meneage — Feb.  13.  Menheniot — April  23,  June  11,  July  28.  Michel— Oct  5.  Millbrook—May  1, 
Sept.  29.  Millingy,  or  Penhallow,  in  Perranzabulo — Easter  Tues.  St.  JVeot — May  5,  Easter  Mon.  and 
Nov.  5.  Newlyn — First  Tues.  in  Oct.  and  Nov.  8.  Northill — Sept.  8,  but  if  on  Fri.  or  Sat.  the  Mon. 
following;  first  Thurs.  in  Nov.  Padstow — April  18,  Sept.  21.  Pelynt — June  24.  Penrose,  St. 
Ewan— Tues.  before  Ascension.  Penryn — May  12,  July  7,  Oct.  8,  Dec.  21.  Penzance — Mar.  25, 
Thurs  after  Trin.  Sunday,  June  1,  Thurs.  before  Advent.  Thurs.  South  Petherwin — Second  Tues.  in 
May,  and  the  same  in  Oct  Pillaton — Whit-Tues.  Polpeno,  in  Lansalloes — June  29.  Port  Isaac,  En- 
dellyon — Holy  Thurs.  Poundscross, Blisland — Last  Mon.  in  Nov.  Poundstock — Mon.  before  Ascension. 
Probus— April  5  and  23,  July  5,  Sept.  17.  Quethiock— East  Monday  in  Jan.  Rialton — June  9. 
Redruth — May  2,  Aug.  3,  Oct.  2.  Saltash — Tues.  before  every  quarter- day,  Feb.  2,  July  25. 
St.  Stephens,  by  Launceston — May  12,  July  31,  Sept.  25.  Stoke  Climsland — May  29.  Stratton — 
May  19,  Nov.  8,  Dec.  11.  Summer  Court,  St.  Enoder— Holy  Thurs.,  July  28,  Sept  25.  St.  Teath 
— Last  Tues.  in  Feb.  and  first  in  July.  Treganatha,  St.  Wenn — May  6,  Aug.  12.  Tregony — 
Shrove  Tues.,  May  3,  July  25,  Sept.  1,  Nov.  6.  Tresilian  Bridge — Second  Mon.  in  Feb.  and 
Mon.  before  Whit-Sunday.  Tintagel,  or  Trevena — Oct  19,  if  Mon.,  if  not,  the  first  Mon.  after. 
Trerule-foot,  St.  Germains — Shrove  Tues.  Treiv,  Breage — Holy  Thurs.,  July  25.  Trewenn,  May  1, 
Oct.  1 1.  Trewithian,  in  Gerrans — Tues.  before  Holy  Thurs.  Truro — Wednes.  after  Mid-Lent  Sunday, 
Wednes.  in  Whitsun-week,  Nov.  19,  Dec.  8,  Tues.  May  20,  and  Sept.  14,  for  cattle.  St.  Tudy — 
May  24,  Sept.  14.  Tywardreth — July  19.  St.  Veep — Wednes.  after  June  16.  Wadebridge — May  12, 
June  22,  Oct.  10.  Wainhouse  Corner,  St.  Gennis — June  24,  Sept.  29.  Week  St.  Mary — July  29, 
Sept.  15,  Dec.  10.  West  Looe— May  6.  Wendron — May  18,  July  27.  Withian— Tues.  before  Holy 
Thursday.  

Authors  who  have  written,  and  Works,upon  Cornwall. — Norden's  "  Spec  uli  Britannia  Pars,  Sfc."  1584. 

— Carew's  Survey,  1602 Natural  History  of  Cornwall,  by  Borlase,  1758.— Antiquities,  by  Borlase, 

1754. — Rev.  R.  Polwhele's  History  of  Cornwall,  1803—1806. — History  of  Cornwall,  by  Hichens  and 
Drew,  1817. — Gilbert's  History  of  Cornwall,  1820. — The  Ancient  Cathedrals  of  Cornwall,  by  J.  Whit- 
taker,  1804. — Lysons'  Magna  Britannia,  1814. — Hals's  Parochial  History,  vol.  n.  folio. — Mr.  Davies 
Gilbert  published  Hals,  and  the  extant  notes  of  Tonkin,  with  remarks  of  his  own,  in  6  vols.,  1838. — 
Account  of  East  and  West  Looe,  by  Bond,  1823. — Some  Account  of  St.  Neot's  Church  and  Windows, 
by  the  Rev.  B.  Foster,  1786. — Observations  on  the  Fossils  of  Cornwall,  by  M.  H.  Klaproth,  1787. — 
Observations  on  the  Scilly  Isles,  by  Dr.  Borlase,  1756. —  History  of  Falmouth,  by  R.  Thomas. — 
Cornwall  and  the  Isles  of  Scilly,  by  Robt.  Heath,  1750. — Agriculture  of  Cornwall,  by  G.  B.  Worgan, 
1811,  and  also  by  Frazer. — Excursions  in  Cornwall,  by  F.  W.  L.  Stockdale,  1824. — Mineralogia  Cor- 
nubiensis,  by  W.  Pryce;  and  Arehajologia  Cornubritannica,  by  the  same,  1778  and  1790.  — Daines 
Barrington,  vol.  III.  and  V.  of  the  Archajologia. — Laws  of  the  Stannaries,  by  T.  Pearce,  1725.— Spe- 
cimens of  Minerals,  by  Philip  Rashleigh,  Esq.  1801. — Dr.  Maton's  Western  Tour,  1797. — Gilpin's 
Picturesque  Tour,  1798.— Shaw's  Tour,  1789,  and  Lipscomb's  Journey  through,  1799. — Several 
Antiquities,  and  the  Beauties  of  England  and  Wales,  with  the  Philosophical  Transactions,  and  several 
periodical  works,  contain  articles  on  Cornwall.  On  Mining  and  Geology  may  be  named  De  la  Beche, 
1839;  also  numerous  papers  in  the  Philosophical  Transactions  and  Magazine,  in  the  Geological 
Transactions,  Annals  of  Philosophy,  and  Transactions  of  the  Geological  Society  of  Cornwall. 


INDEX   AND   GAZETTEER. 


P.  stands  for  Parish ;    V.  for  Village ;  and  Hd.  for  Hundred. 


Adit,  The  Great,  211. 

Advent,  or  St.  Ann,  or  St.  Tane,  41. 

Agnes,  St.,  p.,  185,  190. 

Head,  186. 

's  Beacon,  193,  196. 

Aire,  v.  in  St.  Ives. 
Alan,  river,  40. 
Albeston,  v.  in  Calstock. 
Aldwinnick  House,  90. 
Allen,  river,  116. 

,  St.  p.,  236. 

Alsa,  v.  in  St.  Buryan. 

Alternon,  p.,  52. 

Alvaeot,  v.,  20,  70. 

Alverton,  now  Madern,  p.,  171. 

Amalibria       ^ 

Amalvear        >  v.  in  Towednack. 

Amalwidden  j 

Amble,  v.  in  St.  Kew. 

Amble  Bridge,  St.  Kew,  39. 

Ammell,  v.,  42. 

Angarrack,  v.  in  Phillack. 

Ann,  St.,  41. 

Anne,  St.,  chap,  of,  114. 

Anthony,  p.,  83,  113. 

St.,  East,  chapelry,  72,  82. 

House  and  Woods,  72,  80,  82. 

St.,  Point,  122. 

St.,  in  Roseland,  114. 

,  p.  in  Meneage,  or  in  Kirrier. 

Ararat,  Mount,  and  its  tower,  76. 

Arbuthnot's,   Capt.,  horse  precipitated  from  the 

Land's  End,  177. 
Armed  Knight  Rock,  178. 
Arrowan,  v.  in  St.  Keverne. 
Arwinik,  near  Falmouth,  131,  133. 
Attery,  river,  14,  71. 
Austell,  St.,  Hill,  56. 
Austle,  St.  p.,  ch.,  &c,  of,  105. 

Badghall,  v.  in  Laneast. 
Badharlick,  v.  in  Egloskerry. 
Bake  House,  90. 

Bakesdown,  v.  in  Week  St.  Mary. 
Balsdon,  East,  v.  in  Whitstone. 

,  West,  v:  in  Whitstone. 

Batavellan,  v.  in  St.  Ives. 
Batten  Cliffs,  88. 
Bealbury,  v.,  78. 
Bearer's  Chant,  The,  194. 
Bedock,  or  ) 
Besock,         ) 
Beeney,  ham.,  40. 
Bejouans,  v.  in  Sancreed. 
Belowly,  v.  in  Roche. 
Benefices,  List  of. 
Bennacot,  v.,  20. 
Bennet's,  St.,  Monastery,  49. 
Berippar,  v.  in  Camborne. 

v.  in  Gunwalloe. 

Berry  Court,  barton  of,  30. 
Betallack,  v.  of  St.  Just  in  Penwith. 
Bezoan,  v.  in  Colan. 
Biscovey,  v.  in  St.  Blazey. 


v.  in  Ladock. 


Black  Pit  Gulf,  32,  34. 
Blaise,  St.,  festival  of,  105. 
Blasting,  operation  of,  200. 
Blazey,  St.,  or  Blase,  p.  ch.,  57,  104. 

Highway,  St.,  v.  in  St.  Blazey. 

Blisland,  p.,  rectory  and  manor,  50. 
Boconnoc,  ch.  and  p.,  101. 

House,  101. 

Park,  101. 

Bodiniel,  ham.,  48. 

Bodinneck,  v.  in  Lanteglos  by  Fowey. 

Ferry,  at  Fowey,  98. 

Bodive,  or  Bodeeve,  v.  in  Eglosheyle. 
Bodwanick,  v.  in  Lanivet. 
Bodwen,  v.  in  Helland. 
Bogullas,  v.  in  St.  Just  in  Roseland. 
Bohulla,  v.  in  St.  Just  in  Roseland. 
Bokiddich,  v.  in  Lanivet. 
Bolingey,  v.  in  Perranzabuloe. 
Bodmin,  bor.  and  m.  t,  44. 
Bofarnell,  v.  in  St.  Winnow. 
Bofindle,  v.  in  Warleggan. 
Bolleit,  v.  in  St.  Buryan. 
Bodrean  House,  116. 
Bodwannick,  v.  in  Lanivet. 
Bodrigan  Manor,  in  Gorran,  1 1 2. 

,  Sir  Henry,  Castle  of,  113. 

Bolerium  promontorrum,  176. 

Bolleit,  Druidical  circle  of,  182. 

Borlase,  Rev.  Dr.,  165. 

Bosavern,  v.  in  St.  Just  in  Penwith. 

Boscastle,  t.  and  Castle  ruins,  30,  33,  39. 

Boscawen,  Druidical  circle  at,  183. 

family,  the,  138. 

Boscawen  Oon,  v.  in  St.  Buryan. 

Rose,  v.  in  St.  Buryan. 

Boskenna  House,  171. 
Bossiney. 

Bossinny,  ch.  town,  35. 
Bossow,  v.  in  Towednack. 
Bosvennon,  v.  in  Sancreed. 
Bosustow,  v.  in  St.  Levan. 
Boswednack,  v.  in  Zennor. 
Boswringham,  v.  in  Gorran. 
Botallack  Mine,  174,  211,  212. 
Botreah,  v.  in  Sancreed. 
Bottreaux  Castle,  and  ch.,  31,  34. 
Botus  Fleming,  ch.,  79. 
Boussenning,  custom  so  named,  52. 
Bovallan,  v.  in  St   Ives. 
Bowgyheene,  v.  in  Ludgvan. 
Boyton,  p.,  in  Trigg  hd. 

v.,   Wilsworthy    Barrows,     Agnes    Prest 

burnt,  20. 

Braddock,  ch.,  and  Down,  101. 
Brea,  v.  in  St.  Just  in  Penwith. 
Breage,  p.,  152. 
Breja,  v.  in  Towednack. 
Breock,  St.,  p.,  in  Pyder  hd. 
Breward,  St.,  or  Simon's  Ward. 
Bridgend,  v.  in  St.  Winnow. 
Bridgrule,  p.,  in  Stratton  hd. 

Bridge,  v.  in  Bridgrule. 

Britons  of  Cornwall,  the,  191. 


256 


INDEX  AND  GAZETTEER. 


Eroadoak,  or  Braddock,  ch.,  101. 
Brown- Willy,  52. 
Brumain,  v.  in  Lelant. 
Bude,  v.  in  Stratton. 

Canal,  haven,  and  town,  21 — 23. 

Budock,  St.,  p.  ch.,  135. 

Budshed  Creek,  74. 

Buraton,  v.  in  St.  Stephen's,  near  Saltash. 

Burian,  234. 

Burlawn,  v  in  Egloshayle. 

Burlorne  Eglos,  v.  in  St.  Breock. 

Burngullow,  v.  in  St.  Mewan. 

Burnthouse,  v.  in  St.  Gluvias. 

Burrow,  v.  in  Bridgrule. 

Burraton,  v.  in  Stoke  Climsland. 

Burrows,  the  Four;  tumuli,  128. 

Buryan,  St.,  ch    t.,  182. 

Buscreege,  or  Boscreeg,  v.  in  St.  Germoe. 

Cadgwith  Cove,  145. 

v.  in  Grade,  or  Ruan  Minor. 

Cadston,  v.  in  St.  Ive. 
Caerleon  Cove,  145. 
Caewynen  Cromlech,  173,  194. 
Calenick,  v.  in  Kenwyn  and  Kea. 

smelting  house  for  tin,  128. 

Callestock,  v.  in  Perranzabuloe. 

Callington,  p  ,  in  East  hd. 

Callington  in.  t.,  its  ch.  and  octagonal   cross, 

62,  78. 
Calmanjak,  v.  in  Constantine. 
Calstock,  t.  and  p.,  68. 
Cambeak  Headland,  30. 
Camborne,  ch.  and  font,  57,  103. 

p.  of,  186,  194. 

epitaph  at,  194. 

Camel,  river,  38,  40,  42. 
Camelford,  m.  t.,  41. 
Canorchard,  ham.,  22. 
Caradon  Mnt,  its  height,  53,  60. 

Priory  and  Manor,  55. 

Carclaze  Tin-mine,  105. 
Carclew  House,  128. 
Cardinham,  p.,  in  West  hd. 
,  Old,  v.  in  Cardinham. 

Carew,  Sir  William,  Sir  Alexander,  and  Richard, 

83,  159. 
Cargerwen,  v.  in  Crowan. 
Cargreen,  v.  in  Landulph. 
Cargurrel,  old  fortification  at,  114. 
Carhayes,  St.  Michael,  ch.  of,  113. 

House,  113. 

Carkeel,  v.  in  St.  Stephen's,  near  Saltash. 

Carloggas,  v.  in  Mawgan,  in  Pydar. 

Cam  Bre  Hill,  and  Druidical  vestiges,  191.  Cas- 
tle and  monument  on,  192. 

Cam  Galva,  granite  hill,  173. 

Carn-Kye  Hill,  193. 

Carne,  West,  v.  in  Alternon. 

Carnon  Stream  Works,  128. 

Carnmarth,  195. 

Cammarth  Hill,  195. 

Carny  Voel,  headland,  178. 

Carrack  Dues,  v.  in  St.  Ives. 

Carrickltoad,  113,  114,  120. 

Carsantec,  v.  in  Lawhitton. 

Carvath,  v.  in  St.  Austle. 

Carvossen  Downs,  v.  in  Ludgvan. 

Carwin-Sawsin,  v.  in  Gwinear. 

Carwithenick  House,  136. 

Castle  Hill,  112. 

"  Castles,"  ancient  works,  179. 

Catchfrench  House,  90. 

Cather  Mather  Woods,  72. 

Cattebridevv,  v.  in  Gwinear. 

Cawsand  and  Kingsand,  vils ,  "87  ;  the  Bay, 
88. 

Cayse,  v.  in  Treneglos. 


Chacewater,  v.,  128. 
Charlestown,  v.  ;  St.  Austle  p.,  105. 
Chatham,  Wm.  Earl  of,  101,  102. 
Cheesewring,  the,  55. 
Chilsworthy,  v.  in  Calstock. 
Chiverloe,  v.  in  Gunwalloe. 
Chun  Cromlech,  173. 

Castle,  ib. 

Churchyards  and  cemeteries,  46,  166,  &c. 

Chyandower,  v.,  165. 

Clare,  St.,  or  St.  Cleer,  ch.  and  well,  50,  57—61. 

Cleather,  St.,  p.,  in  Lesnewth  hd. 

Clement's,  St.,  57. 

,  p.,  Truro,  117. 

Clifton,  mans,  ho.,  73. 

Clouted  cream,  described,  58. 

Clowance,  152. 

Clymesland,  144. 

Coanse,  v.  in  Luxullion. 

Colan,  St.,  p.,  in  Powder  hd. 

Coldrinick  House,  90. 

Coluinb  Major,  St.,  p.,  in  Pyder  hd. 

Minor,  St.,  p.,  in  Pyder  hd. 

Congdon's  Shop,  v.  in  North-hill. 
Connon,  v.  in  St.  Pinnock. 
Constantine  Tower,  p.  and  ch.,  135. 
Copper,  value  of  ores  raised,  221. 
Copperthorn,  v.  in  Poundstock. 
Corbeau,  v.  in  St.  Austle. 
Cornelly,  p.  and  ch.  t.,  115. 

Cornwall,  preliminary  description  of,  1 — 12  ; 
duchy  of,  residence  of  former  Dukes,  15,  16, 
102,  116,  144;  palaces  of  the  Earls  of,  102; 
language,  proverbs,  music,  &c.  of,  51,  52,  120, 
147,  182;  ancient  authors  of,  enumerated, 
122—126,  165;  local  customs  of,  49,52,  149, 
150;  character  of  the  inhabitants  of,  188; 
purity  of  English  speech  in,  169  ;  traditions  of, 
51,  52,  64,  70,  79,  81,  91,  106,  113,  121,  127, 
154,  158,  175,  182,183;  history  of  celebrated 
families  of,  68,  165  ;  the  Duchy,  lands  of,  144; 
ancient  episcopal  church  of,  89 ;  land  revenue 
of  the  Duchy,  and  tin  dues,  144  ;  geology,  and 
minerals  of,  100,  105,  139,  141,  154,  155,  164, 
167,  174,  185  ;  agriculture  of,  141,  167  ; 
fisheries  of,  106—112,  184;  birds  of,  179; 
botany  of,  139,  143,  182,  183  ;  trees  and  fruits 
of,  145;  climate  of,  156,  185;  antiquities, 
coins,  &c.  of,  155,  164,  183  ;  ancient  commerce 
with,  155  ;  the  Cornish  wreckers,  186 — 190. 

,  Cape,  174. 

Corva,  v.  in  St.  Ives. 

Cothele  House,  66,  76. 

,  chapel  rock  of,  77. 

Couches,  v.  in  Philleigh. 

Coumbe,  v.  in  Moorwinstow. 

Courtney,  man  of,  144. 

Coverack  Cove,  145. 

■ ,  v.  in  St.  Keverne. 

Cow  and  Calf  Rocks,  196. 

Cracketton,  or  Crackington,  v.  in  St.  Gennis. 

Crantock,  p.,  in  Pyder  hd. 

Creed,  p.  and  ch.  of,  115. 

Crocadon  House,  78. 

Crofthole,  v.,  88. 

Manor,  144. 

Cromlechs;  the  Trevethy  Stone,  61, 172,  173, 

Crosses,  stone,  180,  182. 

Cross  Lanes,  v.  in  Cury. 

Cross-town,  v.  in  Moorwinstow. 

Crowan,  151. 

Crowliss,  v.  in  Ludgvan. 

Crowsnest,  v.  in  St.  Clare. 

Crowswin,  v.  in  St.  Ewe. 

Crowzas  Down,  154. 

Crugmeer,  v.  in  Padstow. 

Cubert,  p.,  in  Pyder  hd. 

Cuby,  p   and  ch   of,  1 15. 


INDEX  AND  GAZETTEER. 


257 


['  Ivils.  in  St.  Hilary. 


Cudden  Point,  154. 
Cury,  p.  147. 

Dabvvalls,  v.  in  Liskeard. 

Dane's  Comb,  76. 

Davidstow,  p.,  40. 

Davy,  Sir  H.,  171. 

Dazard  Point,  26. 

Deadman  Cape,  1 1 2. 

De  la  Bole  Quarries,  42. 

Delamere,  v.,  42. 

Denis,  St.,  p.,  220. 

Dergon,  v.  in  Constantine. 

Devil's  Point,  72. 

Dinas,  Great,  encampment,  J  37. 

,  Castle  an,  165. 

Dinas,  Little,  137. 
Dingle  Combe,  196. 
Dingerein,  entrenchment  at,  114. 
Dinnerdake,  v.  in  St.  Ive. 
Dolsdon,  v.  in  N.  Tamerton. 
Dominick,  St ,  ch.  t.,  78. 
Dosmary  Pool,  51. 
Downance  Cove,  145. 
Downhill,  v.  in  St.  Evvall. 
Downninney,  v.  in  Warbstow. 
Downs,  Higher, 

,  Lower,  _ 

Draines  Hill,  53. 

Drannock,  v.,  157. 

Drawcombe,  v.  in  Stokeclimsland. 

Druids,  circles,  temples,  &c.  of  the,  54,  182,  191. 

Drvm,  v.  in  Crowan. 

Duloe,  p.,  97,  100. 

Dunmere,  v.  in  Bodmin. 

Bridge,  44. 

Hamlet,  48. 

Dunstanville  Monument,  193. 

Dupath  Well,  63. 

Dutson,  v.,  in  St.  Stephen's  bv  Launceston. 

Duchy  Offices,  225. 

Dye,  St.,  195. 

East,  Hundred  of,  55. 
Eastcott,  v.  in  Moorwinstow. 
Eastwyvelshire,  Beadlery  of,  144. 
Eddystone  Rocks  and  Lighthouse,  84. 
Edgcumbe,  Mount,  72,  82. 

House,  87. 

family,  113. 

Eglosheyle,  p.,  43. 

Egloskerry,  p.  in  Trigg  hd. 

Eglos  Ros,  Heath  Church,  and  Roseland,  114. 

Eliot,  Port,  House,  90. 

Endellion,  St.,  p.,  38. 

Endsleigh,  78. 

Enoder,  St.,  p.,  219. 

Engines  used  in  mining,  223,  224. 

Enys  Dodnan  Rock,  178. 

Port,  183. 

House,  128. 

Erme,  St.,  p.,  219. 
Erney,  St.,  p  ,  185. 
Erth,  St.,  ch.,  185. 
Ervan,  St.,  p.  in  Pydar  hd. 
Euny-Lelant,  p.  ch.,  184. 
Eval,  St.,  p.,  223. 
Ewe,  St.,  p.,  106. 

Fade,  or  Fadgv,  provincial  term,  149. 

Fal,  or  Val,  ri'ver,  115,  120. 

Falmouth,  bor.  and  m.  t.,  129. 

Fairs,    feur  or   furry-day,    explained,     109 ;    the 

Furry-song,  150. 
Fentenwanson,  v.  in  Lanteglos  by  Camelford. 
Feock,  ch.,  120. 

Fisheries  of  Cornwall,  106—112,  18  1. 
,  fresh  water,  1 1 2. 


Fishermen  and  Cornish  sailors,  anecdotes  of,  168. 

Five  Lanes,  v.  in  Alternon. 

Flushing,  v.,  131. 

Forda,  v.  in  Lanteglos  by  Camelford. 

Forrabury,  or  Bottreaux,  ch.,  31. 

Four-Hole  Cross,  50,  51. 

Fowey,  m.  t.,  98. 

,  p.  in  Pydar  hd. 

■ Harbour,  53,  98,  100. 

,  or  Fawy,  river,  52;  branch  of,  100. 

Well,  52. 

Fraddom,  v.,  partly  in  Gwinear,  partly  in  Crowan. 
Fraddon,  v.  in  St.  Enoder. 
Frogwell,  v.  in  Callington. 

Gennis,  St.,  p.,  30. 
George's,  St.,  chap.  96. 
Germans,  St.,  ch.  and  v.,  88. 

,  in.  t.  232. 

Germoe,  p.,  152. 

Gerrans,  p.,  113. 

Glanville,  Mrs.,  epitaph  on,  89. 

Glivian,  v.  in  St.  Columb  Major. 

Gluvias,  St.,  vie.  and  ch.,  129. 

Glynns,  mansion  of  the,  53. 

Godolphin  House,  152. 

Godrevy  Island,  183. 

Golant,  or  Giant,  v.  in  St  Sampson. 

Goldfound  in  Cornwall,  222. 

Golden,  mans,  ho,  116. 

Goldsithney,  or  Golzinney,  v.  in  Perran-uthnoe. 

Goloures,  manor  of,  112. 

Goonhilly  Downs,  147. 

Gooscham,  v.  in  Moorwinstow. 

Gorran  Haven,  106. 

,  ch.,  112 

Gospenheale,  v.  in  Trewen. 

Grade,  p.,  145. 

Grammar  Schools,  231. 

Grampound,  m.  t.,  115. 

Green  Bank,  suburb  and  quay,  Falmouth,  130. 

Greyston  Bridge,  72. 

Grimscot,  ham.,  22. 

Grugwith,  v.  in  St.  Keverne. 

Guildford,  v.  in  Phillack. 

Gulfwell,  the,  165. 

Gunwalloe,  p.  in  Kirrier  hd. 

Gulval,  p.  ch.,  57,  165. 

Gunnon,  v.  in  Alternon. 

Gwavas,  v.  in  Sithney. 

Gweek.  v.  in  Constantine. 

Gwennap,  p.,  1S6. 

Gwinear,  p.,  157. 

,  copper  mines  of,  185. 

Gwinter,  v.  in  St.  Keverne. 
Gwithian,  p.  and  mines,  185. 

Halgaver  Moor,  local  custom,  49. 

Halloon,  or  Halewoon,  v.  in  St.  Columb  Major. 

Hall  Walk,  Fowey,  102. 

Halton,  Callington,  p.,  78. 

Ham  Mill,  on  the  Tamar,  20. 

Hamoaze  Harbour,  72,  SO,  88. 

Harewood  House,  77. 

Harrobear,  v.  in  Calstock. 

Hawke's  Tor,  54. 

Hay,  v.  in  St.  Breock. 

Hay  Farm,  Cliffton,  74. 

Hayle  Copper  House,  v.  in  Phillack. 

Hayle  Port,  v.  in  Phillack. 

Headon,  v.,  20. 

Helford,  river,  137. 

,  v.,  137. 

Heligan  House,  106. 
Helland,  p.,  240. 
Hellesvean,  v.  in  St.  Ives. 
Ilellesveor,  v   in  St.  Ives. 
Helsbury,  42,  144. 

L  L 


258 


INDEX  AND  GAZETTEER. 


Helston,  bor  t.,  135,  147. 

,  in  Trigshire,  manor,  144. 

Helston,  v.  in  Lanteglos  by  Camelford 

Hendra,  v.  in  St.  Denis. 

Hendravenna,  v.  in  Perranzabulo. 

Hennaclift',  headland,  24. 

Hensbarrow  Hill,  105. 

Herring  fishery,  112. 

Hesham,  ham.,  22. 

Hessingford,  v.  in  St-  Germans. 

Hewas  Tin  Mine,  106. 

Heyle  Copper-smelting  and  Iron  Works,  183,  185. 

,  river,  184. 

Hicks's  Mill,  v.  in  Lewannick. 

High  Cliff,  3''. 

Highway,  v.  in  Tywardreth. 

Highway,  v  ,  100. 

Hill  Head  Turnpike,  St.  Austle,  10(i 

llingston  Down,  6'5. 

Silver  Mine,  77. 

Hollabeer,  v.  in  Moorwinstow. 

Holm  Bush  Mines,  6'2. 

Honiton,  v.  in  South  Petherwin. 

Horneck  Castle,  171. 

Huel  Vor  Mine,  152. 

llurlers,  the,  Druidical  circle,  54. 

Illogan,  p.,  185. 

Copper  Mines,  190. 

Ince  Castle,  72,  82. 
Inceworth,  v.  in  Maker. 
Inganger,  St ,  v.  in  Lanivet. 
lnny,  river,  62,  72,  78. 
Iron  ores  raised,  223. 
Issey,  St.,  p.,  223. 
Ive,  St.,  ch.,  62. 
Ives,  St.,  bor.  and  m.  t.,  184. 

,  pilchard  fishery  at,  1G8. 

,  herring  fishery  at,  112. 

Jacohstow,  p.,  30. 

Jamaica  Inn,  50. 

Jews,  visited  Cornwall,  106,  165. 

John's,  St.,  Creek,  72,  83. 

Rectory,  83. 

,  v.  in  Sithney. 

Juliot,  St.,  p.,  40. 

Just,  St.,  p.,  in  Roseland,  113,  14,  153. 

,  in  Penwith,  amphitheatre  of,  121,  175; 

p.  of,  173;  ch.  t.  of,  174;  mines  and  minerals 

of,  174;  stone  cross  of,  ib. 
,  s.,St.  Pool,  anchorage,  134. 


Kannegy,  or  Kenegy,  v.  in  Breage. 

Karnidjack  Castle,  174. 

Kea,  ch.,  128. 

Keason,  v.,  78. 

Kelinack,  v.  in  St.  Just  in  Penwith. 

Kellestock,  man.  and  fishery  of,  144. 

Kellygreen,  v.  in  St.  Tudy. 

Kenegie  House,  165,  171. 

Kennack  Cove,  145. 

Kenwyn,  ch  ,  Truro,  118,  128. 

Kerrybolock  Park,  144. 

Kestle,  v.  in  St.  Thomas  by  Launceston. 

Keverne,  St.,  ch.,  138. 

,  traditions,  139,  1  ;>  1 . 

Kew,  St.,  p.,  42. 
Keyna,  St.,  93. 
Keyne,  St.,  ch.,  92. 

,  the  well,  93. 

Killbury  Castle,  44. 
Kilkhampton,  21,  28. 
Killigrew,  family  of,  133. 
KMliow  House,  128. 
Kilmarth  Hill.  5  1. 


r-Ui 


vils.  in  St  Breward. 


Kinance  Cove,  146. 
Kingswood,  v.  in  Cardinham. 
Kit  Hill,  63. 

Kitsham,  v.  in  Week  St.  Mary. 
Knowle,  v.  in  Bridgrule. 
Kynock,  or  Canyke  Castle,  49. 
Kyvere  Ankou,  196. 

Ladie's  Cross,  70. 

Ladock,  p.,  219. 

La  Feock,  v.  in  Feoch. 

Laine,  rivulet,  44. 

Lambourn,  v.  in  Penan  Zabuloe. 

Lamellin,  v.  in  Liskeard. 

Lamorick,  bor.  in  Lanivet. 

Lamorran,  or  Lan  Moran,  ch  ,  115. 

Landewednack,  ch.  and  font,  103,  145. 

Landrake,  ch.,  79. 

Land's  End,  The,  175—178. 

Landulph,  ch.  and  manor,  73,  Ilk 

Lane,  v.  in  St.  Allen. 

Laneast,  in  East  hd. 

Lanhinzey,  v.  in  St.  Columb  Major. 

Lanhydrock  House,  104. 

Lanihorne,  Rtian,  ch  ,  1 14,  115. 

Lanivet,  St.  Bennet's  Monastery  at,  49. 

,  p.  of,  ib. 

Lanivery,  p.  and  ch.,  102. 
Lankidden  Cove.  145. 
Lank  Major, 

Minor 

Lanner-vean,  v.  in  Sithney. 
Lanreath,  a  parish  in  West  hd. 
Lansalloes,  a  parish  in  West  hd. 
Lanteglos- by-Camelford,  p.,  41. 
Lanteglos-hy-Fowey,  ch.,  98. 
Lanyon,  v.  in  Madern. 

Cromlech,  172. 

Lariggan  House,  171. 

Larrick,  v.  in  Lezant. 

Latchley,  v.  in  Calstock. 

Laudren  Manor,  144. 

Launcels,  friar's  cell  and  snakes  of,  21. 

Launce&ton,  bor.  and  in.  t.,  12 — 19,  144. 

Lawhitton,  p.,  15. 

Lawrence,  St.,  48. 

Lead  mines  of  Cornwall,  222. 

Leighdura  Manor,  144. 

Leitch,  or  leach  stone,  80. 

Lelant,  p.  ch.,  173. 

,  gardens  of,  183. 

Lerrin,  river,  101. 
,  v.,  partly 

St.  Winnow. 
Lesnewth,  p.  andhundr.,  40,  52. 
Levan,  St.,  ch.  i,  179. 
Lewannick,  a  parish  in  East  hd. 
Lewarne,  v.  in  Northill. 
Lezant,  a  parish  in  East  hd. 
Lidwell,  v.  in  Stoke  Climsland. 
Linkinhorne,  p.,  55. 

free-school,  foundation,  55. 

Lionesse,    154;  Sir  Tristram  and   the    Ladye 

Liones,  159. 
Liskeard,  bor.,  m.  t ,  and  manor,  90,  144. 
Little- Bridge,  v.  in  Bridgrule. 
Lizard  Point,  145. 

Town,  v.  in  Landewednack. 

Lodes,  description  of,  217,  218. 

Loe   Pool,  and  dangerous  bar   betwi.xt    the 

and  the  sea,  52,  150. 
Logan  stones,  172,  181. 

,  in  Phillack. 

Long  Lane,  v.  in  Merthcr. 

Ship's  Lighthouse,  175. 

Looe,  East,  \        q, 
,  West,  f  ,s"  ''•'• 

Island,  84,  96. 


St.  Veep,    and    partly 


of 


lake 


INDEX  AND  GAZETTEER. 


259 


Looe,  river,  95. 

LostWITHIEL,  111.  t.  and  p.,   (formerly   a   bor.    t.) 

102,  114. 
Lower  Ex,  v.  in  Week  St.  Mary. 
Low,  Port,  Manor,  144. 
Luccombe,  v.  in  Lawhitton. 
Luckett,  v.  in  Stoke  Climsland. 
Ludgvan,  p.,  J  65. 

Lees,  v.  in  Ludgvan. 

Lundy  Island,  26. 
Luxullian,  p.  ch.  of,  105. 
Lyd,  river,  72. 

Lynher,  river,  72,  82. 

Mabe,  p.,  135. 

Mabyn,  St.,  ch  ,  42 

Madern  Well,  171,  180. 

Madron,  or  Madern,  p.  and  cli  ,  57. 

Maker,  ch.,  72. 

Heights,  80. 

,  p.  of,  87. 

Malow,  or  Mola,  v.  in  St.  Agnes. 
Manaccan  House,  137. 
Manacle  Point,  132. 
Manacles,  the,  145. 
Manganese,  ores  raised,  222. 
Makazion,  in.  t.,  155 — 15S. 
Marham,  ch.  t.,  21. 
Maristow  House  and  Woods,  74. 
Mark  well  v.  in  St.  Erney. 
Martin,  St.,  in  Meneage,  138. 

■ in  West  hd. 

,  ch.,  96. 

Mary's,  St.,  p.,  Truro,  117. 

Mawes,  St.,  town  and  castle  of,  1 13,  134. 

p.,  in  Meneage,  138,  147. 

in  Pyder,  a  parish. 
Mawnan,  ch.,  137. 

— —  Smith,  v.  in  Mawnan. 

Mayod,  v.,  176. 
Medrose,  v.,  42. 
Melancoose,  v.  in  Colan. 
Mellion,  St,  p.,  78. 

ch.,  and  monument  of  Wm.  Coryton,  79. 

Men  Scryfa  Stone,  172. 

Menabilly  House,  100. 
Meneage,  p.,  138. 
Menhcniot,  p.  and  ch  , 
Mennadue,  Higher,     ) 
,  Lower,      ) 


M  awgan 


90. 

vils. 


in  Luxullion. 


Mermaid's  Hole,  114. 
Merry n,  St.,  p.  223. 
Merrifield,  v.  in  Bridgrule. 
Merrymeet,  v.  in  Menheniot. 
Merther,  p   and  ch.,  116. 
Metherell,  v.,  66. 
Mevagissy,  ch.,  and  fishery,  106. 
Mewan,  St.,  p.  ch.,  106. 

Beacon,  106. 

Michael's,  St.,  Mount,  &c.  155  ;  its  history,  159. 
Michael  Carhaycs,  St.,  ch.,  113. 

,  St.,  chap.,  39. 

,  Penkivel,  ch.,  120. 

Michaelstow,  p.,  42. 
Michel,  57. 

partly  in  St.  Enoder. 

Millbrook,  tand  creek,  72,  83. 
Millingoos,  v.  in  Sithney. 
Millingey,  v.  in  Pcrran  Zabuloc. 
Millpool,  v.  in  Cardinham. 
Milor,  p.,  131. 

Bridge,  v.  in  Milor. 

Mines,  principal  situation  of,  see  p.  268. 
Mine,  opening  new,  223. 

,  persons  employed  at,  ih. 

■ ,  machinery  employed  at,  ib. 

Mines,  tin,  account  of,  216. 
— ,  magnitude  of,  201. 


Mines,  descent  of  one,  213. 

,  temperature  in,  201. 

,  levels  working  in,  ib. 

,  transverse  section  of,  215. 

Miners'  tools,  197. 

,  Cornish,  character  of,  210,  211. 

Mining  operations  described,  197. 

districts  described,  215. 

Minster,  p.,  34. 
Minver,  St.,  ch.,  38. 
Miracle-plays  of  Cornwall,  122. 
Mithian,  v.  in  St.  Agnes. 
Moditenham  House,  79. 
Molfra  Cromlech,  172. 
Monument  on  Cam  Bre,  193. 
Moors,  the,  near  Bodmin,  50. 
Moorwinstow,  ch.,  21,  30. 
Mopas.  near  Truro,  120. 
Moresk,  manor  of,  116. 
Morva,  p ,  173. 
Morval  House,  96. 
Mount  Edgcumbe,  80. 
Motintjoy,  v.  in  Colan. 
Mount's  Bay,  154,  164. 
Mousehole,  v.,  183. 
Mullion,  p.  ch.,  147. 

Nancealvcrn  House,  171. 
Nancledry,  v.  in  Towcdnack. 
Nanjisal,  or  Mill  Bay,  178. 
Nansavallan  Wood,  128. 
Nantallan,  ham.,  48. 
Nare  Head,  114,  145. 
Neot's,  St.,  ch.,  and  ch.  t.,  91. 
Nethercombe  Tenement,  100. 
Newbridge,  70,  77. 
New- Hay,  70. 
Newlyn,  v.,  183. 

,p.,  219. 

Newport,  15. 

New  Quay,  v.  in  St.  Columb  Minor. 

Nighton's,  St.,  Keive,  Cascade,  35. 

Nonnet,  St.,  ch.,  52. 

Northcott,  20. 

North- Hill,  a  parish  in  East  hd. 

— Manor,  144. 

Nun's  (St.)  Well,  52. 

Oil,  (rain,  169. 
Other-Half  Stone,  57. 
Ore,  dressing  of,  219,  221. 

■ ,  sale  of,  and  produce,  220. 

,  value  of,  220,  221. 

Otterham,  p.,  40. 

Padstow,  ch.  and  font,  103,  121. 

Palmer's  Bridge,  52. 

Par,  v.,   100,  partly   in   St.  Blazey,  and  partly  in 

Tywardreth. 
Par  Creek,  104. 
Pardenick  Point,  178. 
Park,  manor  of,  43. 
Paul,  p.  ch.,  183. 
Pelyn,  or  relynt,  ch.,  97. 
Penare,  or  Pennair,  v.  in  Gorran. 
Penair  House,  1 16. 
Penbeagle,  v.  in  St.  Ives. 
Penberth  Cove,  v.  in  St.  Buryan. 
Pencalenick,  1 16. 
Pencarrow,  v.  in  Advent. 

■ House,  44. 

Pendavy,  manor  of,  ih. 

Pendecn,  v.  in  St.  Just  in  Pemvith. 

Cove,  and  cave,  174. 

Pendogget,  v.  in  St.  Kew. 
Pendennis  Castle,  113,  131,  13  k 
Pendrief,  or  Pendrift,  v.  in  Blisland. 
Peneailh,  v.  in  Morval. 


260 


INDEX  AND  GAZETTEER. 


Pengelly,  v.,  42. 
Pengerswick  Tower,  1 52. 
Pengreep,  195. 
Penhale,  v.  in  St.  Enoder. 

,  v.  in  St.  Breock. 

,  v.  in  St  Tudy. 

Penhalt,  v.  in  Poundstock. 
Penliel,  v.  in  Gwinnear. 

Penkivel,  St.  Michael,  ch.,  Truro,  120. 

Penkneth  Manor,  144. 

Penkuke,  v.  in  St.  Gennis. 

Penlyn  Manor  and  Park,  144. 

Penmean,  v.  in  St.  Minver. 

Penpons,  v.  in  Camborne. 

Penryn,  bor.  and  m.  t.  128. 

Penrose,  v.  in  Sithney. 

,  v.  in  St.  Ervan. 

,  Vj.  in  Sennen. 

Penters  Cross,  v.  in  Pillaton. 

Pentewan,  or  )        .     0.     .      ., 
.,     .  >  v.  in  St  Austie. 

Pentuan,         ) 

Pentilly  Castle,  75,  79. 

Pentire  Point,  38. 

Penton's  Cross,  v.,  79. 

Pentreath,  Dolly,  125. 

Pentuan  Stream-work,  105. 

,  manor  of,  107. 

Penvear,  Grace,  169. 
Penwartha,  v.  in  Perranzabulo. 
Penwarne,  or  Pen-gwaine,  Manor,  107,  137. 
Penwith,  hund-.,  183. 

,  St. Justin, p.,  121 ;  amphitheatre,  122, 173. 

,Tol  Pedu,  178. 

Penzance,  corp.  and  m.  t.,  16b'. 

Penan,  or  Piran,  p.,  120. 

Perran-Arworthal,  128. 

Perran-Uthnor,  p.,  236. 

Perranwell,  121,  128. 

Perranwharf,  v.  partly  in  Perran-Arwothal. 

Perranzabulo,  p.  in  Pydar  hd. 

Petherwin,  South,  p.,  15. 

Petherick,  Little,  p.  in  Pydar  hd. 

Petroc,  St.,  Monastery,  47. 

Phillack,  p.  ch.  of,  185. 

Philleigh,  or  Filleigh,  p.,  113. 

Pigham,  Port,  144. 

Pilchard  fishery,  106,  184. 

Pillaton,  p.  in  East  hd. 

Pinnock,  St.,  p.,  242 

Pipers,  the,  Druidical  stones,  182. 

Piper's  Pool,  v.  in  Trewan. 

Piran's  Well,  St.,  121,  128. 

,  the  ancient  church,  P27. 

Piranzabulo,  par.,  120,  185;   traditions,  127. 
"  Piran  Round,"  amphitheatre,  121. 
Piran,  Little,  ch.,  or  Perranuthno,  154. 
Pitt,  Mr.  Thomas,  101. 

Diamond,  the,  102. 

Pit,  (The)  an  excavation,  196. 
Place  House,  99. 

of  death,  196. 

Plengwarry,  v.  in  Redruth,  195. 

Poetry  and  Songs,  150—153,  169,  ISO,  194. 
Polgooth,  v.  in  St.  Mewan. 

Tin  Mine,  105. 

Polliilsa,  v.  in  Stoke  Climsland. 

Polkerris,  v.,  100. 

Polly-font,  v.  in  Lewannick. 

Polmanter,  v.  in  St.  Ives. 

Polmarth,  v.  in  St.  Merryn. 

Polmasick,  v.  in  St.  Ewe. 

Polmennow,  v.  in  St.  Winnow. 

Polperro,  barb.,  t.,  and  St.  Peter's  Chap.,  97- 

Polruan,  vil.,  98. 

Polscoath,  v.  in  St.  Winnow. 

Polskatho,  v.  in  Gerrans. 

Polshea,  v.  in  St.  Tudy. 

Polwhele  House,  116. 


Polwheverill  Creek,  126. 

Ponsanooth,  v.  partly  in  St.  Gluvias,  and  partly  in 

Perran-Arwothal. 

Pool,  v.  in  Illogan. 

Poor  Law  Unions,  245. 

Population,  245. 

Porbeagle  shark,  107. 

Porkellis,  v.  in  Wendron. 

Port  Carnow  Cove,  180. 

Logan  Stone,  181. 

Port  East,  or  Gorran  Haven,  v.  in  Gorran. 

Isaac,  v  in  Endellion. 

Portleven,  v.  in  Breage. 

Portloe,  v.  in  Veryan. 

Portreath,  or  Basset's  Cove,  sm.  barb.,  186. 

Portalla,  v.  in  St.  Keverne. 

Porth,  v.  in  St.  Columb  Minor. 

Porth,  Stream-works  of,  100.  * 

"Porths,"  185. 

Portbasnac  Cove,  149. 

Porthgwarrah  Cove,  17  9. 

Porthilly,  ch.,  39. 

Porthoustock,  v.  in  St.  Keverne. 

Porthpean,  v.  in  St.  Austie. 

Portleven,  v.  in  Sithney. 

Portmellin  Cove,  and  entrenchment,  112, 

Portquin  Cove,  38. 

Portyssick,  or  Port  Isaac,  ib. 

Posnooth,  v.  in  St.  Gluvias. 

Poughill,  p.  in  Stratton  hd. 

Poulston  Bridge,  71. 

Poundscross,  v.  in  Blissland. 

Poundstock,  ch.  t.,  30. 

Powdershire,  bailiwick  of,  144. 

Pradanack  Down,  147. 

Wartha,  v.  in  Mullion. 

Praze-an-Peeble,  v.  in  Crowan. 

Probus,  ch.,  115,  116. 

-,  festival,  116. 

Prospidnick,  Higher,  )    .,     .    c-,, 

t  5-  vils.  m  Sithney. 
,  Lower,    )  ' 

Quarry,  v.  in  Menheniot. 
Quethiock,  p  in  East  hd. 

Radmore  mine,  62. 

Rame,  p.  in  East  hd. 

Rame  Head,  84,  88. 

Raughton,  v.  in  St.  Levan. 

Redruth,  m.  t.  and  p.,  and  ch.,  186, 192, 194, 195. 

Redruth  Highway,  v.  in  Redruth. 

Relaton,  or  Rillaton,  144. 

Relubbas,  v.  in  St.  Hilary. 

Rescassa,  v.  in  Gorran. 

Rescorla,  v.  in  St  Austie, 

Rescorwell,  v.  in  St.  Keverne. 

Respryn,  v.  partly  in  Lannydrock. 

Restormel  Castle,  ruins,  103,  144. 

Park,  and  chap.,  104. 

Restronget  Creek,  128. 
Resudgian,  v.  in  St.  Hilary. 
Retive,  v.  in  Withiell. 
Rilla  Mill,  v.  in  Linkinhorne. 
Rinsey,  v.  in  Breage. 
Roche,  p.  ch.  of,  105. 
Roche-Rocks,  56,  105. 
Rosane,  v.  in  Lezant. 
Rose,  v.  in  Perran  Zabuloe. 
Rosedinick,  v.  in  St.  Columb  Major. 
Rose  Hill  House,  171. 
Roseland,  p.,  114. 
Ilosemannon,  v.  in  St.  Wenn. 
Roemaddris,  v.  in  St.  Buryan. 
Rosemullion  Head,  137. 
Rosenithon,  v.  in  St.  Keverne. 
Rosevanion,  v.  in  St.  Columb  Major. 
Rosewick,  v.  in  St.  Keverne. 
Roskear,  v.  in  St.  Gennis. 
Rough  Tor,  42. 


INDEX    AND    GAZETTEER. 


261 


Ruan  Lanihorne,  ch.,  114. 

Major,  p.  in  Powder  hd. 

Minor,  p.,  115. 

Rumford,  v.  in  St.  Ervan. 
Runnel  Stone,  179. 

Ruthvos,  or  Ruthoes,  v.  in  St.  Column  Major. 

Saltash,  corp.  t.  and  ferry,  72,  80,  144. 

Sampson,  St.,  p.  in  Powder  hd. 

Sancreed,  p.,  183. 

Sand- Place,  v.  in  Morval. 

Scilly  Isles,  175. 

Scorrier,  seat,  19G. 

Selena,  v.  in  St   Buryan. 

Sellan,  v.  in  Sancreed. 

Senar,  or  Zennar,  p.,  172. 

Sennen,  St.,  ch.  t.,  46,  175. 

Sepulchral  stones,  57. 

Shaft,  engine,  view  of,  210. 

Sharks,  species  of,  108,  111,  112. 

Sharp-Point  Tor,  54. 

Sharrow  Grot,  84. 

Sherston  Moor,  70. 

Sheviock,  p.  and  ch.,  88. 

Shillingham  Manor  House,  82. 

Shoding,  practice  of,  198,  217. 

Shouta,  v.  in  East  Looe. 

Sidney  Cove,  152. 

Silver  mine,  Kingston  Down,  65. 

,  mines  of,  222. 

Sithney,  p.  ch.,  152. 

Skilly-Waddon,  v.  in  Towednack. 

Slade's  Bridge,  44. 

Slaughter  Bridge,  40. 

Southcott,  or  Sowacott,  v.  in  Jacobstow. 

Southhill,  p.,  63. 

Spargo,  Lower,  v.  in  Mabe. 

Stairfoot,  v.  in  St.  Ernie. 

Stamford  Hill,  23. 

Stannary  Courts,  origin  of,  216. 

Steam  engines,    224 ;  Newcomen's,  ib.  ;    Watt's, 

ib.;  Hornblower's,  ib. ;  Woolf 's,  ib. 
Stenclose,  v.  in  St.  Agnes. 
Stephen's,  St.,  near  Launceston,  ch.,  14,  17. 

,  p.  ch.,  near  Saltash,  80. 

,  in  Branwell. 

Down,  20. 

Stibb,  v.  in  Kilkhampton. 
Stithians,  p.  in  Kirrier  hd. 
Stoaping,  explanation  of,  198. 
Stoke-Climsland,  p.  in  East  hd. 
Stoke,  v.  in  Stoke-Climsland. 
Stone-dancers,  182. 
Stratton,  m.  t ,  19. 
Stream  works,  account  of,  219. 
Summer-Court,  v.  in  St.  Enoder. 
Swallock,  v.  in  St.  Breward. 

Talland,  p.,  96. 

Talland,  p.  in  West  hd. 

Talskydo  Manor,  144. 

Tamar,  river,  ferry,  vaie,  and  scenery,  12,  21,  72, 

74,  75,  76. 
Tamerton,  North,  20,  70. 

,  Great  and  Little,  70. 

Foliott,  v.,  74. 

Tamsquite,  v.  in  St.  Tudy. 

Tane,  St.,  41. 

Tavy,  river,  74. 

Teath,  (St.)  p.,  38;  ch.,  42. 

Tehidy  House  and  Park,  191. 

Temple  Moor,  50. 

. ,  p.,  ib. 

,  ch.  and  manor  of,  ib. 

Tewynton  Manor,  144. 
Thanks  House,  72. 
Thomas,  St.,  near  Launceston,  15. 
Thurdon,  v.  in  Kilkhampton. 


Tibesta  Manor,  14  E 

Ticketing,  account  of  a,  221. 

Tidiford,  v.  in  Landrake,  and  St.  Germans. 

Tintagel,  ch.,  32. 

Tin  ores  raised,  220. 

Tinton  Manor,  144. 

Tolgus,  or  Tolgoose,  v.  in  Redruth. 

Tolmen  Stone,  the,  135. 

Tol-peda-Penwith,  178. 

Tolskedy,  v.  in  St.  Columb  Major. 

Tolvern,  114. 

Tornewidden,  v.  in  Ludgvan. 

Treator,  v.  in  Padstow. 

Trebariha,  v.  in  Northill. 

Pool,  ditto. 

Trebarwith,  v.  in  Tintagel. 
Trebean,  v,  in  St.  Levan. 
Trebeath,  v.  in  Egloskerry. 
Trebell,  v.  in  Lanivet. 
Trebethenick,  v.  in  St.  Minver. 
Trebollet,  v.  in  Lezant. 
Trebryan,  v.  in  Lanhydroch. 
Treburley,  v.  in  Lezant. 
Treburthick,  v.  in  St.  Evall. 
Treburtle,  v.  in  Tresmere. 
Trecragan  Entrenchment,  173. 
Trecroben,  v.  in  Lelant. 
Trecroogo,  v.  in  South  Petherwin. 
Tredawl,  v.  in  Alternon. 
Tredinneck,  v.  in  St.  Clare. 
-,  v.  in  St.  Issey. 


;  gjj£«  }  vils.  in  Daloe. 

Tredinney,  v.  in  Advent. 

Trednea  House,  185. 

Tredneath,  v.  in  Lelant. 

Tredrissic,  v.  in  St.  Minver. 

Tredrussan,  v.  in  St.Breock. 

Treen,  v.,  182. 

Treeve,  v.  in  St.  Buryan. 

Trefrevv,  v.  in  Lanteglos  by  Camelford. 

Trefusis  House,  131. 

Point,  ib. 

Tregadgwilh,  v.  in  St.  Buryan. 

Tregadilleth,  v.  in  St  Thomas  by  Launceston. 

Tregagle,  Dosmary  Pool,  51. 

Tregaller,  v.  in  South  Petherwin. 

Tregameer,  v.  in  St.  Columb  Major. 

Tregaminian,  v.  in  Morva. 

Tregantle,  v.  in  Anthony. 

,  Higher,  v.,  84. 

Tregarne,  v.  in  St.  Keverne. 
Tregaswith,  v.  in  St.  Columb  Major. 
Tregatilian,  v  in  St.  Columb  Major. 
Tregatta,  v.  in  Tintagel. 
Tregavaras,  v.  in  Gorran. 
Tregavarack,  v.  in  Gorran. 
Tregavi thick,  v.  in  Lansalloes. 
Tiegawen,  v.  in  Withiel. 
Tregeane,  v.  partly  in  Egloskerry. 
Tregeda,  v.  in  Lawhitton. 
Tregelles,  v.,  42. 
Tregenhawke,  v.  in  St.  John's. 
Tregcnna,  or  Treginnow,  v.  in  Blisland. 

Castle,  88,  184. 

Tregennah,  v.  in  Lamorran. 
Tregew,  v.  in  Lansalloes. 
Treglitha,  v.  in  Treneglos. 
Tregoll,  v  ,  30. 
Tregols,  ham.,  116. 
Tiegondale,  v.  in  Menheniot. 
Tregonetha,  v.  in  St.  Wenn. 
Tregoning  Hill,  152. 
Tregonissy,  v.  in  St.  Austle. 
Tregonoe  Manor,  144. 
Tregonnebris,  v.  in  Sancreed. 
Tregonnon,  v.  in  Little  Petherick. 
Tkegony,  m.  t.  Castle,  &c.  115. 


2G2 


INDEX    AND    GAZETTEER. 


Tregoodwcll,  v.  in  Lantcglos  by  Camelford. 

Tregoose,  v.  in  Sithney. 

Tregortha,  v.  in  Gwinnear. 

Tregoss,  v.  in  Koche. 

Tregothnan  House,  120. 

Tregowris,  v.  in  St.  Keverne. 

Tregrill,  v.  in  Menheniot. 

Tregullon,  v.  in  Lanivet. 

Tregunno,  v.  in  Breage. 

Tregurno,  v.  in  St.  Buryan 

Tregurrian,  v.  in  Mawgan  in  Pjder. 

Tregurtha,  v.  in  St.  Hilary. 

Trehiinest,  v.  in  Quethiock. 

Trckenning,  v.  in  St.  Culunib  Major. 

Trelagon  Manor,  144. 

Trelash,  v.  in  Warbstow. 

Treleggoe,  v.  in  Advent. 

Trelevan  Manor,  107. 

Trelew,  v.  in  St.  Buryan. 

Treliever,  v.  in  St.  Keverne. 

Treligoe,  v.,  42. 

Trelil,  v.,  42. 

Trelinnow,  v.  in  South  Petberwin. 

Trelissick,  120. 

Trelonk  House,  ]  14 

Trelowarren  House,  138. 

Treloy,  v.  in  St.  Martin's  in  West. 

Treloyhan,  v.  in  St.  Ives. 

Treluswell,  v.  in  Gluvias. 

Tremagenna,  v.  in  Lanteglos  by  Camelford. 

Tremaine,  or  Tremean,  p.  in  East  hd. 

Tremarr,  v.  in  St.  Clare. 

Trematon,  v.  in  St.  Stephen's,  near  Saltasli. 

Trernaton  Castle,  81,  144. 

Trembetha,  v.  in  Lelant. 

Tremeal,  v.  in  Davidstow. 

Tremeere  House,  42,  50. 

Tremellick,  v.  in  St.  Clare. 

Tremen-heveme  Stones,  154,  174. 

Tremoore,  v.  in  Lanivet. 

Tremoutha  Haven,  30. 

Trenalt,  v.  in  Trewen. 

Trenance,  v.  in  St.  Issey. 

,  v.  in  St.  Keverne. 

Trenarren,  v.  in  St.  Austle. 
Trenear  House,  171. 
Treneglos,  40. 
Trenewan,  v.  in  Lansallors. 
'l'rengothal,  v.  in  St.  Levan. 
Trengune,  v.  in  Warbstow. 
Trengwainton  House,  171. 
Trcnhorne,  v.  in  Lewannick. 
Trenovv,  v.  in  Tintagel. 
'1'renuggo,  v.  in  Sancreed. 
Trenwith,  v.  in  St.  Ives. 
Trepadannon,  v.  in  St.  Columb  Major. 
Treneife  House,  171. 
Treryn  Dinas,  headland,  173. 

■ Castle,  173,  181. 

Trescaw,  v.  in  Cubert. 
Trescow,  v.  in  Breage. 
Tresillian,  p.  and  v.,  116,  182. 

■ Creek,  116. 

Bridge,  v.  in  Merther. 

,  Chief-Justice,  182. 

Trcsinny,  v.  in  Advent. 
Treskilling,  v.  in  Luxullion. 
Tresmere,  p.  in  East  hd. 
Tresowes,  v.  in  St.  Germoe. 
Tresparrot  Down,  30. 

,  ham.,  40. 

Trespearn,  v.  in  Laneast. 
Trethannas,  v.  in  Crowan. 
Trethergy,  v.  in  St.  Austle. 
Trcthery,  v.  in  South  Petherwin. 
Trethyn,  v.  in  Alternon. 
Trevadlock,  v.  in  Lewannick. 
Trevalga,  p.  in  Lesnewth  hd. 


Trevallack,  v.  in  St  Keverne. 

Trevalsoe,  v.  in  St.  Keverne. 

Trevance,  v.  in  St.  Issey. 

Trevanger,  v.  in  St.  Minver. 

Trevanion,  113. 

Trevanson,  v.  in  St.  Breock. 

Trevarnoe,  v.  in  Sithney. 

Trevarrack,  v.  in  Gulval. 

Trevarrian,  v.  in  Mawgan  in  Pydar. 

Trevarick,  v.  in  Gorran. 

Trevarrick,  v.  in  St.  Austle. 

Trevarron,  v.  in  St.  Columb  Major. 

Treveage,  v.  in  Alternon. 

Treveal,  v.  in  Cubert. 

Trevear,  v.  in  Sennen. 

,  v.  in  St.  Merryn. 

Treveighan,  v.  in  Michaelstow. 

Trevella,  v.  in  Feock. 

Trevelmond,  v.  in  Liskeard. 

Trevelveth,  v.  in  Crantock. 

Treveniel,  v.  in  Northill. 

Trevenna,  v.  in  Tintagel. 

Trevenning,  v.  in  Michaelstow. 

Trevennor,  v.  in  St.  Hilary. 

Trevernon,  v.  in  Gwithian. 

Trevethaw  House,  185. 

Trevethy  Stone,  58 — 61. 

Trevia,  v.  in  Lanteglos  by  Camelford. 

Trevick,  Higher,      J     .,         T  ,      ,     P 

T    "  >  vils.  in  Lanteglos  by  towev. 
Lower,       )  b         J  J 

Trevidgia,  v.  in  Towednack. 

Trevilder,  v.  in  Egloshayle. 

Trevillis,  v.  in  St.  Pinnock. 

Trevince,  seat,  195. 

Trevimber,  v.  in  Crantock. 

Treviscar,  v.  in  Padstow. 

Trevispan,  v.  in  St.  Erme. 

Trevisquite,  v.  in  St.  Mabyn. 

Trevithern  Manor,  144. 

Trevivian,  v.  in  Davidstow. 

Trevolvas,  v.  in  St.  Columb  Major. 

Trevone,  v.  in  Padstow. 

Trevonnack,  v.  in  Wendron. 

Trevoole,  v.  in  Crowan. 

Trevoothen,  v.  in  St.  Keverne. 

Trevorgans,  v.  in  St.  Buryan. 

Trevorian,  v.  in  Breage. 

Trevorrian,  v.  in  St.  Buryan. 

Trevorras,  v.  in  Breage. 

Trew,  v.  in  Breage. 

Trewalder,  v.  in  Lanteglos  by  Camelford. 

Trewarlet,  v.  in  Lezant. 

Trewaimet,  v.  in  Tintagel. 

Trewartha  Tor,  54. 

Trewarthenick  House,  115. 

Treweedland,  v.  in  Liskeard. 

Treween,  v.  in  Alternon. 

Trewellard,  v.  in  St.  Just  in  Penwith. 

Trewen,  p.  in  East  hd. 

Trewethern,  v.  42. 

Trewillis,  v.  in  St.  Keverne. 

Trewint,  v.  in  Alternon. 

Trewithan,  v.  in  Camborne. 

Trewithen  House,  115. 

Trewithey,  v.  in  Northill. 

Trewithian,  v.  in  Gerrans. 

Trewoolas,  v.  in  Philleigh. 

Trcwoon,  v.  in  St.  Mawan. 

Treworder,  in  St.  Breock,  52. 

,  v.  in  Egloshayle. 

Trcworga,  v.  in  Ruan  Lanihome. 

Treworrcl,  v.  in  Lesnewth. 

Treworthall,  v.  in  Philleigh. 

Trewrct  and  Treured  Manors,  Truro,  118. 

Trewv,  v.  in  Zennor. 

Tre  Yeo,  22. 

Trezcla,  v.  in  Gulval. 

Triloweia  Manor,  144. 


INDEX    AND    GAZETTEER. 


263 


Trink,  v.  in  Lelant. 
Torpoint,  chap,  and  v.,  72,  83. 

v.  in  Anthony. 

Torritlge,  river,  70. 

Tors  and  rocky  hills  of  Cornwall,  53,  63. 

Towan,  v.  in  St.  Merryn. 

,  or  New  Quay,  v.  in  St.  Columb  Minor. 

Towans,  or  sandhills,  128,  185. 

Towednack,  p.,  173. 

Trabock,  v.  in  St.  Keverne. 

Treator,  v.  in  Padstow. 

Tribute,  account  of,  199. 

Troove,  v.  and  cove  of,  183. 

Trowan,  v.  in  St.  Ives. 

Trugo,  v.  in  St.  Columb  Major. 

Truro,  bor.  and  m.  t,  116 — 119. 

Truscott,  Higher,  v.  in  St.  Stephen's  by  Launceston 

Trusel,  v.  in  Tremaine. 

Truthall,  v.  in  Sithney. 

Tucking-mill,  v.  in  Camborne. 

Tudy,  St.,  42. 

Tutwell,  v.  in  Stoke  Climsland. 

Tutwork,  account  of,  199. 

Tywardreth,  eh,  t.,  100. 

■  ancient  manors,  144. 

Bay,  100,  104. 

Underhill,  v.  in  Stoke  Climsland. 
Upton,  v.  in  Linkinhorne. 
,  barton  of,  185. 

Veep,  St.,  p.,  ch.,  and  priory,  100. 
Venterdon,  v.  in  Stoke  Climsland. 
Venton,  v.,  20. 

Loggan,  v.  in  Phillack. 

Veryan,  p  ,  113. 

Wadebridge,  38,  42,116. 

,  v.  in  St.  Breock. 

Wainhouse  Corner,  v.  in  St.  Gennis. 
Wall,  v.  in  Gwinnear. 
Warbstow,  40. 
Warleggan,  p.  in  West  hd. 


Warleigh,  woods  of,  74. 

Warm  Wood,  78. 

Week  St.  Mary,  ch.  t.,  20. 

■  Orchard,  v.  in  Week  St.  Mary. 

Weir  Head,  river  Tamar,  77. 
Wendron,  or  Gwendron,  p.,  135,  148,  151. 
Wenmouth  Cross,  v.  in  St.  Neots. 
Wenn,  St.,  p.  in  Pydar  hd. 
Wherry  Mine,  account  of,  213. 
Werrington,  p.,  Park,  24. 

,  river,  70. 

Westanton  Manor,  144. 
Weston  Mill,  72. 
Whiteford  House,  62. 
White-Lane,  v.  in  Philleigh. 
Whitesand  Bay  and  Mine,  174. 
Whitstone,  p.,  20. 
Whitsun  Bay,  84. 
Widemouth  Bay,  26. 
Wilcove,  v.  in  East  Anthony. 
Willapark  Point,  32. 
Winnow's,  St.,  ch.,  100. 
Winzes,  explanation  of,  198. 
Withiel,  p.  in  Pyder  hd. 

Goose,  v.  in  Withiel. 

Woodford,  v.  in  Moorwinstovv. 
Woodland  Terrace,  Falmouth,  131. 
Woodly,  Higher, 
,  Lower, 


"'} 


vils.  in  Lanivet. 


Woolley,  v.  in  Woorwinstow. 

Worthy  Vale,  57. 

Wotton  Cross,  v.  in  Landrake. 

Wreckers,  186. 

Wringworthy,  96. 

Wrinkle  Port,  88. 

Yeilland,  or  Illand,  v.  in  Nortliili. 
Yeowellston,  70. 

Zelah,  v.  in  St.  Allen. 
Zennar,  p.,  172. 
Zoze  Point,  137. 


MINES. 


Baldu,  or  Baldew,  in  ...  .  Kea. 

Beam St.  Austle. 

Botallack  Mine St.  Just  in  Penwith. 

Briggan Kenvvyn. 

Camborne  Vean Camborne. 

Carnwhat Kea. 

Chacewater  Mine Chacewater. 

Clinicombe Linkinhorne. 

Consolidated  Mine     Gwennap,  &c. 

Creegbraws Kenwyn. 

Daniel Kenwyn. 

Dolcoath Camborne. 

East  Pell St.  Agnes. 

G arras,  or  Gwarnich Kenwyn. 

Godolphin  Mine St.  Germoe. 

Goonlaze St.  Agnes. 

Grambler Ditto. 

Great  Pell Ditto. 

Herland  Mines Gwennap. 

Herod's  Foot Duloe. 

Huel  Alfred South  Petherwin. 

Beauchanip Gwennap. 

Bnssctt Illocrnn. 


Huel  Boys Kenwyn. 

Budnich Perranzabulo. 

Busy Chacewater. 

Burnick St.  Agnes. 

Butson Ditto. 

Clinton Gwennap. 

Coates St.  Agnes. 

Cupid Redruth. 

Damsel Gwennap. 

Derrick St.  Agnes. 

Falmouth Kea. 

Fat Kenwyn. 

Fortune Gwennap. 

Friendship Ditto. 

Gorland Ditto. 

Hope Ditto. 

Kea. 

Jewel Gwennap. 

Kind St.  Agnes. 

Lemon Mylor. 

Lilly Redruth. 

Lushington Illogan. 

Mithien St.  Agnes. 

Music     Ditto. 

Park Ditto. 

Peevor Kenwyn. 

Prosper St.  Agnes. 

liamoth Perranzabulo. 


264 


INDEX    AND    GAZETTEER. 


Huel  St.  Aubyn Redruth. 

St.  George Perranzabulo. 

Seymour Kenwyn. 

Spinster Gvvennap. 

Squires Ditto. 

Towan St.  Agnes. 

Tregothnan     Kea. 

Trevance St.  Agnes. 

Unity Gwennap. 

Virgin Ditto. 

Vor Ditto. 

Indian  Queens St.  Denis. 

Killicor Kenwyn. 

Legossic  Mine Wadebridge. 

Maudlin Lanhydrock. 

Nanjiles Kea. 

New  Consols Gwennap. 

North  Downs  Mines Kenwyn. 


Pink i  Redruth. 

Ditto (  Gwennap. 

Poldice Ditto. 

Polberro St.  Agnes. 

Polbreen Ditro. 

Poulgeer Ditto. 

Polgooth St.  Austle. 

Scorrier     Gwennap. 

Shillstones Linkinhorne. 

Staws  End Ditto. 

Ting  Tang Gwennap. 

Tolcarn Ditto. 

Trefusis  Wood Kenwyn. 

Tresavean Gwennap. 

Trenithick St.  Agnes. 

Treskerby Gwennap. 

United  Mines Ditto. 

Withybrook Linkinhorne. 


END    OF    CORNWALL. 


R.    CLAY,    1MUNTLK,    BIU:\U    ST-REtT    1HLL. 


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